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EXPLAININa 



"WHEEE TO FIND THEM, HOW TO FIND THEM, AND THEIR 
ESPECIAL ADVANTAGES, 



WITH 



DETAILS OF TIME TABLES AXD PRICES. 



A COMPLETE GUIDE FOR THE SUMMER TOURIST, 



WITH MAPS AHm ILLTJSTEATIONS. 



COMPILED BY 

CHARLES H. SWEETSKR, 

Author of the " Guide to the Northwest," and Editor of the " New- 
York Evening Mail." 



NEW-YORK : 
EVENING MAIL" OFFICE, No. 229 BROADWAY. 

1868. 



>v.;4r 



Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1868, by 

CHARLES H. SWEETSER, 

iB. the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States, for 
the Southern District of New- York. 



1 



JOHN A. GKAT & GEEEN, 

PEIXTERS, 

16 AND 18 JACOB STREET, NEW-TOEK. 



A revised edition of this volume^ prepared for 
the season of 1869, zvill be piiblished early in 
tlie co7ning year. A large map, covering all 
ilie S2immer resoi'ts of the country, has been or- 
dered for this edition. To7crists who discover 
errors in the present volnme, tuill confer a 
favor by informing the compiler , at the office 
of publication. No. 229 Broadway, New-York. 



p* 



v 



This Book of Summeb Eesokts is intended as a hand-book of 
practical information. It has been carefully and laboriously com- 
piled, and is believed to be generally correct. Another season it 
will be made stiU more complete. We shall be happy to receive 
from any source facts and incidents that Tvill add value to future 
editions. Our counti'y is a splendid one for the tourist, but it has 
wretched guide-books. We trust that this volume will increase the 
interest in the former, and suggest improvements for the latter. 

We have gleaned from any and all sources at command, borrowed 
and original. Especially have we culled from Burt's Coiinecticui 
Hiver Gidde^ Walling''s Route Books^ Lossing''s Hudson^ Stw King's 
W/iite Hills, and William L. Stone's Saratoga writings. But a very 
considerable part of the book is original. 

For many matters of interest to the simimer tourist, we refer the 
reader to the introductory chapter. And for pure air, bird concerts, 
sparkling waters, long life, health, and happiness, we refer one and, 
all to the places whither this book directs, 

New-York, June, 1868. 



The compiler of this volume will make a specialty of reporting 
smnmer resort news through the columns of his paper, the New- 
York Evening Mail. In this journal there will he presented from 
time to time most valuable correspondence from many resorts, and 
every thing of interest to the summer traveler will be carefully 
noted. The Mail will be sent to any address during the months of 
June, July, August, and September for two dollars, or at the general 
rate of fifty cents per month. 



GENEEAL DITISIOH'S. 



I. 
INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. 

n. 
LAKES, RIYERS, AXD MOUNTAINS. 

III. 
SPRINGS AND FALLS. 

IV. 

SEASIDE RESORTS. 

V. 

DOMINION OF CANADA. 

VI. 

TIME TABLES. 

VII. 

COMPLETE TOPICAL INDEX. 

vni. 
MEMORANDA. 

IX. 

ADYERTISEl^IENTS FOR TOURISTS. 



MAPS. 

NEW-ENGLA]STD. 
LONG ISLAND SOUND. 

THE pko^t:nces. 

LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 

ROUTES TO SOUTHERN SPRINGS. 



ILLTJSTRATIOIS^S. 



Cattskill Mountain House. Congress Hall, Saratoga. 

Lnke Memphremagog House. Union Hotel and Grounds, Sara- 

The Flume, "White Mountains. toga. 

Crystal Cascade, White Mountains. Columbian Spring, Saratoga. 

Glen Ellis Falls,White Mountains. Messena Sprmgs. 

Yv'hite Mountains. Taghkanic Falls. 

Fort WiUiam Henry Hotel, Lake Pulpit Falls, Ithaca, N. Y. 

George. Falls at Ithaca. 

Tadoussac Hotel, Quebec Prov. Ocean House, Newport. 

Fouquet's Hotel, Plattsburg. White Sulphur Springs, Ya. 

Windermere House, Greenwood FaUs of Minnehaha, Minnesota. 

Lake. Ai'ched Rocks, Lake Superior. 

Empire and Congress Springs, Mt. Mansfield House, Stowe, Vt. 

Saratoga. Genesee Falls, N. Y. 

High Rock Spring, Saratoga. Franconia Notch, White ;Moun- 
High Rock Spring in 1767. tains. 



GENERAL INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. 



-♦♦•- 



PRACTICAL HINTS TO THE TOURIST. 

There are five things tliat an experienced traveler al- 
ways makes a particular care : 

L He oicns a good trunlc. 

11. He carries thick clothing, even in the hottest weather. 

HI. His hand-satchel is never loithout camphor, lauda- 
num, and brandy for medicine. 

IV. He does not drink water in unaccustomed places. 

V. He buys through tickets, even when not going heyondj 
a local station. 

The summer tourist should certainly have his trip 
pretty well mapped out before starting. If he has four 
weeks and two hundred and fifty dollars, he can make 
either of the * 

Lake Superior Trip, 

White Mountain Trip, 

Virginia Springs Trip, 

St. Lawrence and Saguenay Trip. 

If he has six weeks and three hundred and fifty dollars, 
he can make the 

Trip of the Provinces. 



10 INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. 

For a four weeks' sojourn at tlie 

Sea-Shore, 

one hundred and fifty dollars mil suffice, even at the 
most popular places. 

If the tourist has only two weeks and one hundred dol- 
lars, he can make a trip to 

Saratoga Springs 

and 

Lake George. 

A young man can make the trip of the White Moun- 
tains with one hundred dollars, and wander about for ten 
days or a fortnight. 

If one desires to breathe the sea air for a little, but does 
not care to spend over fifty or seventy-five dollars, he will 
do well to go to Branford, Ct., Watch Hill, R. L, or Rye, 
N. H. 

The tourist should not^isit Niagara, Long Branch, New- 
port, or Cape May, intending to live at the best hotels, 
Y/ithout pro^T-ding himself with money at the rate of fifty 
dollars a week. 

The time-tables published in the railway-guides, al- 
though very valuable, are not so accurate as they should be. 
If you make extensive journeyings, you will do well to 
provide yourself with the time-tables of the roads over 
which you pass. They can be procured at leading hotels, 
or at central or union ticket-offices. This vrill save you 
much vexation. 

Remember that the general cost of travel upon railroads 
is three and one third cents per mile. Upon steamboats it 
is generally one third less. 



IXTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. 11 

At Niagara and the White Mountains, there is an es- 
tablished rate of prices for the hacknien and stag-es. These 
you can learn at the hotel-desk, and if you then submit to 
extortion, it is simplest foolishness. 

When you have long days of journey before you, carry 
lunches in your satchels. It will save extravagant ex- 
penses, and will afford a vast deal more comfort than the 
railroad restaurants. 

Long Branch, Saratoga, and the White Mountains are 
incomparably the three great summer resorts of the coun- 
try. Of the Lakes, Mahopac is first. The " Gregory 
House " there is unequaled in the country. The '' Pequot 
House," at New-London, is certainly the most fashionable 
summer hotel in the country. 

If you are planning a trip among the Adirondacks, re- 
member that Plattsburg, Yt., is the grand starting-point. 
Go directly to Fouquet's Hotel, and there you can get all 
information, and make all your plans. Do not plan for 
less than six weeks, if you are going to the Adirondacks. 
Two hundred dollars will cover the expense. 

In going to the White Mountains, go up the Connecti- 
cut Valley, and return by way of Portland. 

For downright rough sea-side experience, the best point 
for the tourist is Mount Desert, Maine. You can spend a 
fortnight here for fifty dollars. 

Some of the best fishing points are at the eastern ex- 
tremity of Long Island, and which are almost the only 
places not fully recorded in this book. Another season 
w^e shall make this more complete. But if the tourist takes 
the boat to Sag Harbor, he will find a good boarding-house 
there, and if he goes by Long Island Railroad to Green- 
port, he ^\i.ll have no difficulty in locating among the fa- 
vorite haunts of the fishermen. 



12 INTKODUCTOEY CHAPTER. 

For trout-fisliing, go to Lake Umbagog, nortli of the 
White Mountains about 20 miles. There are no hotels 
here, but you can live with the farmers, and have glorious 
bread and milk. The starting-point for Umbagog is 
Gorham, N. H. 

The Delaware Water Gap trip affords a view of some of 
the finest scenery in all the country. There are splendid 
hotels here, and it is a most fascinating trip to take. 

For a far trip, nothing can be more interesting, varied, 
and healthy than up Lake Superior, across in the forests 
(by stage) to St. Paul, thence down the Mississippi, and 
home by Madison, Chicago, and Detroit. This requires 
six weeks, and three hundred and fifty dollars. There is 
superb fishing all about St. Paul. For any one inclined 
to consumption, no better trip can be taken in the world. 
Only remember in going up Lake Superior, that only one 
boat (the Keweenaw) goes all the way through the lake to 
Superior City. 

The White Sulphur Springs are most popular, and are 
well described in this volume. 

For a lengthy summer visit, Conroy, ^N". H., Manchester, 
Tt., Stockbridge, Northampton, and Greenfield, Mass., and 
Litchfield and Stamford, Ct., are the most deliglitful. 

The most enchanting near mountain view in the coun- 
try is from Mount Holyoke, near Northampton, Mass. 

If you go to the White Mountains, do not fail to visit 
Berlin Falls, above Gorham. They are, inadvertently, 
almost overlooked in our White INIountain chapter. 

Of the Long Branch hotels, " Rowland's" is most exclu- 
sive, " Stetson's" most elegant, the " Continental" the 
largest and gayest, the "Mansion" finest situated for the 
water, and the " Metropolitan" nearest the cars and most 
reasonable in prices. 



INTKODUCTORY CHAPTER. 13 

The Guilford Point House, at Guilford, Ct., is one of 
tlie very best sea-side hotels. It is quiet and yet fashion- 
able, and the prices reasonable. 

The College Hill House, at Poughkeepsie, Highland 
House, at Garrison's, (West-Point,) Heath House, at 
Schooley's Mountain, and the Saint Alban's House, on 
Lake Champlain, are all famous for their excellent man- 
agement. 

In making fishing excursions, there is little advantage 
in carrying with you any apparatus. It can be procured 
easily and cheaply at all the fishing resorts. 

For mackerel-fishing, go to Swampscot, Mass. For blue- 
fishing, cruise among the Thimble Islands in the Sound, 
off Branford. For crabbing and clams, the Eocky Point 
House, near Providence, is celebrated. 

At the Sault Sainte Marie, Lake Superior, there is a hotel 
that is much frequented by fishermen. At this point the 
Indians catch great quantities of lake trout for the market. 
The three best lakes in Minnesota for fishing are : Minne- 
tonka. White Bear, and Clear Lake. There are hotels at 
each. There is superb fishing in the lakes about Madison, 
Wisconsin. 

If you want a grand old bufialo hunt, go to Fort Aber- 
crombie, by stage from Saint Paul. For the best deer 
hunting, go to Sunrise, Wisconsin, on the military and 
stage road from Saint Paul to Superior City. For brook 
trout, there is no place in all the land equal to '' Twin 
Lakes," 20 miles west of Superior City. 

Young men who desire adventure will find the best 
ocean trip from Superior City up the Saint Louis Eiver, 
across Sandy Lake, and down the Mississippi to Saint 
Paul. This requires a week, and an Indian guide or two. 

The trip '' across the Continent " has been ignored in 



14 INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. 

this book, as hardly yet practicable for the ordinary sum- 
mer tourist. It will doubtless take its place in our next 
edition. 

In our account of Sliaron Springs we have neglected to 
speak of Union Hall, one of the leading hotels there. It 
is kept by Mr. A. Willmann. Terms, $3.50 per day, with 
a reduction for families ; rooms for 300 guests. House 
open from June 15th to September 15th. Sulphur baths 
may be had here. 

In our Staten Island article we have neglected to notice 
Pettier 's Hotel, which has just been purchased by Mr. 
Lachmeyer, and which is now being refitted and enlarged. 
The house overlooks the entire Bay of New-York, and is 
reached from the first steamboat landing on either side. 

The '' New- York Hotel," at Pleasure Bay, has been 
leased by Mrs. Mortimer, who kept the " Cooper Cottage" 
last year. 

Nearly all the summer hotels will open this year on the 
1st of June. 

Tourists who propose to make the overland trip to Cali- 
fornia will find some useful tables among the time-tables 
at the end of the volume. 

In planning for the Lake Superior trip, the tourist 
should remember that boats leave tri-weekly from Detroit 
and Cleveland. The Keweenaw goes to Superior City. 
The Meteor and other boats to Ontonagon only. 

In going to Saint Paul, Minnesota, if you do not have 
the time for the steamboat trip up the Mississippi, you can 
go all the way by cars, crossing the Mississippi at Prairie 
du Chien. Maps and time-tables can be had of Mr. Prince, 
No. 2 Astor House, New- York. 

Among the excursions announced for the summer, none 
will be more delightful than those planned by the New- 
Jersey Kailway to the Virginia Springs. 



^ INTRODUCTOEY CHAPTER. 15 

Finally, bound up with this volume, there are a number 
of blank pages for pencil memorandas. By filling out 
these, as you journey, you vnll serve many good and 
pleasant ends. 



STATUTE M 
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LAKES, EIYERS, AXD MOUJfTAIIS, 



ALOI^G THE HUDSOI^ EIVEE. 

Mr. Lossixg, in his Book of the Hudson, (to wliicli,, 
with other volumes, we are greatly indebted,) well re- 
marks, that " the past has left scarcely a record upon the 
shores of this river ; it is full of the living" present, illus- 
trating by its general aspect the free thought and free ac- 
tion which are giving strength and solidity to the young 
and vigorous nation within whose bosom its bright waters 
flow." The Hudson is commonly spoken of in comparison 
with the Rhine ; but, unlike that less charming stream, 
its beauties are those of nature, and not antiquity ; its dis- 
tinction is almost wholly dependent upon the peculiar 
attractions of its banks, its woods and mountains. We- 
start, therefore, appropriately, from the busiest city in the- 
world, and shall seldom be turned aside from Nature's 
beauty by tralition or history till we lose ourselves in 
the primeval forest whence the Hudson springs. Our way 
lies now over the very finest route for the summer tourist 
in all the cr)untry ; and it is peculiarly American, as it is 
peculiarly beautiful. 

In the present article, we shall include not only the im- 
mediate banks of the river, but points of interest along 
the Harlem and Piermont (Northern New-Jersey) Railways, 



2 LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 

as fitly l/clonging here. The river-trip proper may be 
made best in either one of two ways : by the day -boat to 
Albany, the " Daniel Drew," or the " Chauncey Vibbard," 
9 A.M., from foot of Harrison street ; fare, $1 ; excellent din- 
ner ($1) on board ; or by the Hudson River Ilailway, in Wag- 
ner's " drawing-room cars," which afford at once elegance, 
seclusion without danger, and as x>orfect a view, through 
large windows, as can be gained from land ; (charge, $1 
extra, over fare, to Albany.) The time to Albany is, by 
steamboat, about 15 hours ; by rail, G hours on express 
trains, 6| to 7 on others. Fare on railway — about one third 
less in summer than in winter — through to All)any, $3.20. 

For the tourist, the Hudson liiver will begin at Harrison 
or at Thirtieth street, and be little more than a place to get 
away from until he reach One Hundred and Fifty-second 
street, alias Washington Heights, where there is a way- 
station of the railway, and a large hotel just opposite. 

Washington Heights may well be made a point of de- 
parture by such tourists as are unfamiliar with the ele- 
gant upper portion of New- York Island and its neighbor- 
hood. Kevolutionary memories are most plentiful here, 
and one can almost perceive the struggle going on be- 
tween the bones of the martyrs of '76 and the cabbages 
of our wealthy butchers and bakers, etc., who have pur- 
chased and are metamorphosing the ancient ground. A 
•ride of 5 miles in any direction over the splendidly 
macadamized Bloomingdale road, the continuation (for 
more than 20 miles) of Broadway, or over many of 
the by-ways, will richly repay the visitor. The natural- 
ist Audubon purchased and improved, a few years ago, a 
fine grove less than a quarter-mile above the hotel, calling 
it xVudubon Park. The inclosure is now filled with pretty 
cottages, the one nearest the south-west being the original 



LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 3 

mansion. The widow of tlio saDcmt resides in one of the 
other dvvolIin<Ts. Near the park, toward the east, is the 
Trinity Charch Cemetery, in which are many notable 
<Trave9, amon^^ them that of Audubon. The Convent of 
the Sacred Heart, a large and fasliionable youn<:^ ladies* 
boardin;^-schooI as well as convent, Roman Catholic in 
government, is further down, upon the Tenth avenue ; 
and the pretentious residence, with gilded dome, of the 
editor of the New-York Herald, James Gordon Bennett, 
commonly attracts the curiosity of a stranger as we go 
nearer the eastern shore. Before leaving the Heights, the 
visitor will also wish to examine the spot whose former 
occupation gives name to the mountain or ridge upon 
which are all these placets — the old Fort Wasliington. 
This extended its earth-works quite to the river ; but the 
citadel stood on the crown of Mount Wasliington, now 
called Washington Heights, the most elevated land on the 
island, overlooking the country in every direction, and 
having in view the river from the Highlands to the har- 
bor of the city below. The 'exact location was between 
One Hundred and Eighty-first and One Hundred and 
Eighty-sixth streets, and about Eleventh avenue. The 
Asylum for the Deaf and Dumb stands nearly upon the 
spot, and the whole vicinity is occupied with charming 
villas. The only remains of the Revolutionary fortifica- 
tions visible are in the earth- works on the river at Jeffrey's 
Hook. 

While at the Heights, one must run over to the Harlem 
side of the island. High Bridge is well known to every 
one as a magnificent viaduct 1450 feet long, 114 high, 
transporting the Croton River water in huge mains over 
the Harlem (more properly Muscoota) River, two miles 
above Harlem Bridge, at One Hundred and Thirtieth. 



EIVERS, AND M0U2sTAINS. 



street. Morris House, on the cliff overhanging the river, 
is a fine old mansion, famous as the residence of Aaron 
Burr's widow, better known as Madame Jumel, her former 
husband's name. The mansion was erected in 1755 by 
Roger Morris, General Washington's successful (Tory) ri- 
val in a suit for the hand of Miss Mary Philipse. A fine 
view of the vicinity may be had either from the house or 
the grounds behind it. 

About a mile inland, on the Kingsbridge road, half-way 
between the two rivers, is the Grange, the house of Gen. 
Alexander Hamilton, standing secluded at some distance 
from the road. Xear the house is a group of 13 trees 
planted by the General, and named after the original States ; 
the one named South-Carolina alone grew up crooked ! 

Spuyt den Duyvel Creek is a very pretty little stream, 
though too trifling to be the dividing line, as it is, of the 
great city from Westchester county. It takes its name 
from the famous attempt of Stuyvesant's trumpeter, An- 
tony Van Corlear, to swim across it en spuyt dp.n Duyvel — 
" in spite of the Devil !" The latter personage triumphed, 
and has commonly been considered master of the situa- 
tion, not to say of the city, ever since ! The creek runs 
in a north-westerly direction from the Muscoota (Harlem) 
to the Hudson River. Kingsbridge is a small wooden 
bridge over the creek, at its head, where there is some- 
what of a ^i.llage. It was built in 1693, and was the only 
means of approaching Manhattan (Xew-York) from the 
m.ainland. Here there was much fighting during the 
Revolution, and from its northern end to the Croton River 
the country was so unsafe that neither Whig nor Tory 
could live safely, whence the name of the Xeutral Ground. 
At the northern border of it we shall meet with the inter- 
esting history of Major Andre. 



LAKES, EIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 5 

Over the (Hudson) river, the Northern Railway of New- 
Jersey runs back into the country beyond the cliffs, mak- 
ing its most important calls at Fort Lee, Englewood, and 
Piermont. Englewood boasts the Palisade House, a large 
hotel, where many summer boarders find delightful es- 
cape from the city. Fort Lee is a village grandly situated 
on the southern summit of the Palisades, 300 feet above 
the river, and chiefly interesting from that fact. These 
splendid cliffs, or columns, beginning at Fort Lee, about 
oi)posite One Hundred and Sixtieth street in the city, ex- 
tend some 20 miles up the river, as far as the Tappan Zee, 
(Sea,) a broad basin at Tarrytown. More imposing, con- 
sidering their distance and height, than the rocky banks 
of the Saguenay, they form a magnificent contrast to the 
quiet beauty of the opposite shore. The formation is 
trap, much resembling the columns of Fingal's Cave and 
the Giant Causeway ; but the cliff hardly varies from the 
perpendicular, and extends unbrokenly until it terminates 
as abruptly as it began. The height of the Palisades ia 
300 to 500 feet. 

Past New- York (Manhattan) Island, the next best stop- 
ping-place is Yonkers, where is the Getty House, W. H. 
Doty, proprietor — always open. The village is an ancient 
settlement at the mouth of the Neperah, or Sawmill River, 
w^as recently incorporated, and is a favorite suburban home 
of New-Yorkers. The chief attraction to visitors is the 
ancient Philipse Manor, built in 1682 and 1745, now occu- 
pied by the Hon. W. W. Woodworth, who makes visitors 
welcome. Beautiful Mary Philipse, the early love of 
General Washington, was born and lived here. It 
was at Yonkers landing that Hudson found the strong 
tidal current from the north that revived his hopes 
of a northern passage to India. Font Hill, li miles 



6 LAKES, RIYERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 

down, is a mansion built in Englisli castellated form 
by Edwin Forrest, tragedian, for a summer residence, 
in 1838. His dreams of domestic happiness were permit- 
ted realization here with, his wife till 1844, when he 
revisited England and became involved with Ma- 
cready. This resulted in the famous " Astor Place riots" 
in New- York City, 1848, and domestic troubles and divorce 
to poor Forrest. The Roman Catholic Sisters of Charity 
(Mount Saint Vincent) have purchased and greatly added 
to the building for a convent. Dobb's Ferry, (which read- 
ers of the January Putnam will easily recognize,) origi- 
nally Weec-ques-guck, (Indian for " place of the bark-ket- 
tle,") is miles north of Yonkers, on the railway, and is 
notable for the Livingston Mansion, now owned by Ste- 
phen Archer, a Friend, where Washington met, in 1TS3, 
the *' Ci\il Governor of New- York," George Clinton, and 
the British commander, Sir Guy Carleton, to confer con- 
cerning the evacuation of the city. At this point in the 
river is the most picturesque portion of the Palisades. 

The passenger by boat will stop at Piermont, on the 
west bank, between Tarrytown and Dobb's Ferry. Ir\ing- 
ton is directly opposite to it. The Erie Railway formerly 
made Piermont its eastern terminus ; but since Xew-Jer- 
sey has admitted that great corporation to privileges on its 
soil, only the freight terminus remains here. The river at 
this point is 3 miles wide, and still retains the old Dutch 
name of Tappan Zee. The village of Tappan, where 
Andre was tried and executed, is 3 miles out of Piermont. 

Tarrytown must be the traveler's point of departure for 
the region made classic by Irving. Every body knows 
w^hat there is of interest hereabout, and will need no as- 
sistance from us. Andre's monument, on the spot of his 
arrest. Van Wart's monument, at Greensburg, 3 miles 



east, and the monument to tlie three captors, near the Po- 
canteco, are the chief Revolutionary reminders. One mile- 
below Irvinofton is Nevis, the estate of Gen. Alexander 
Hamilton's eldest son, James, where may be seen the li- 
brary, and a portrait by Stuart, of the illustrious officer. 
Xot far distant is Mr. Cottinet's residence, built in French 
style, of Caen stone, and esteemed superior, externally and 
internally, to any other dwelling on the Hudson. The 
owner is a wealthy merchant of Xew-York. Another re- 
markably fine mansion near Tarrytown is the Paulding 
Manor, built of white marble in the pointed Tudor style, 
and exceedingly picturesque in effect. 

The principal points of interest regarding Washington 
Irving's home and writings are : Sunnyside, his residence, 
with its grounds, on Wolfert Acker's Rust, 3 miles below- 
Tarry town ; Sleepy Hollow, just above the old brick and 
stone Dutch church, on the Pocanteco, where Ichabod lost 
his wits ; and the grave of the great Irving, behind the 
old church, in full view of the Tappan Zee. 

At Nyack, a charming village on the west shore a little 
above the point opposite Tarrytown, (ferry from the latter 
place,) the Smithsonian House affords entertainment, 
whence a short drive brings the tourist to Rockland Lake, 
150 feet above the river, half a mile long and three fourths 
wide, noted for its ice trade. The Hackensack River car- 
ries the waters of this lake to Xewark Bay, near Xew- 
York. On the other side of the river there is the State 
prison a^ Sing Sing, which the tourist will hardly care to 
visit ; and at Croton Point, 36 miles from Xew-York, he 
will find the mouth of Croton (originally Kitchawan) River, 
and may profitably TOit the artificial lake from w^hich the 
purified waters of the stream supply the citizens of Man- 
hattan. Dr. Underhill's graperies are located at Croton, 



8 LAKES, EIYEES, AND MOUNTAINS. 

and are worth, visiting. Reerossing the river and ascend- 
•ing a few miles, we are at Stony Point, made forever fa- 
mous by ''Mad Anthony Wayne," in 1779. The whole 
point is a mass of granite rock, with patches of evergreen 
and shrubs, except on the northern side, where is a black 
cliff of magnetic ore, not worth quarrying. 

We are now rapidly approaching Peekskill, the second 
of the chief stations, (Yonkers first,) on the railway, 43 
miles up. The river here becomes 3 miles broad, form- 
ing Haverstraw Bay, which extends as far north as the 
Dunderberg, a grand, boulder-like mountain, {" thunder 
mountain,") about a mile above the town, on the west 
bank. This and Anthony's Xose, opposite, are two of the 
finest elevations of the whole river-bank. The railway 
tunnel under Anthony's Xose is one of the most interest- 
ing objects in itself and its vicinity which the rapid tra- 
veler may enjoy. Anthony's Nose is a rocky promontory 
which rises to the height of 1128 feet, the base of which 
has been tunneled by the railway a length of 200 feet. 
Two miles above is Sugar Loaf Mountain, with an eleva- 
tion of 865 feet. Xear by, and reaching far out into the 
river, is a sandy bluff, on which Fort Independence once 
stood. Further on is Beverly Island, and in the extreme 
distance Bear Mountain. At Peekskill itself, the Van Cort- 
landt Mansion, once Gen. Washington's headquarters, the 
monument to Paulding, (one of Andre's captors,) and 
Henry Ward Beecher's residence, are the chief things to 
see. Mr. Beecher has a farm of about 30 acres, and every 
farmer in the neighborhood is puzzled to know how he 
gets so much out of it. It produces an enormous quantity of 
vegetables, most of which are sold in the village, and his 
neighbors say it nets him about §5000 a year. It stands on 
the slope of one of the hills that stretch up from the Hud- 



LAKES, EIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 9 

son River, and is one of tlie smartest and prettiest houses, 
though decidedly antique in architecture, that one could 
wish to live in. Mr. Beecher's family reside here from the 
beginning of summer till about the middle of the fall, and 
the head of the establishment spends about half of the 
same time. 

Lake Mohegan is only 4 miles distant, and Lake Maho- 
pac about 14. Another lake, Oskewanna, is 4 miles away. 
There was only one hotel at Lake Mohegan last season, 
but there are several boarding-houses in the neighbor- 
hood, and most of them are pretty w^ell filled. There is 
excellent fishhig at Oskewanna, and parties from New 
York ride out from Peekskill every day, spend a few hours 
coaxing pickerel from their cool retreat, and return next 
day. Most of the visitors at Lake Mahopac run out by 
the Harlem Railway. 

Close by the Dunderberg, just below the Brocken Kill, 
lies lona Island, (300 acres, 200 being marsh,) rendered no- 
table of late by Dr. C. W. Grant's nursery and graperies. 
Thi^ island is upon the dividing line of temperature. The 
sea-breeze stops here, and its effects are visible upon vege- 
tation. The season is two w^eeks earlier than at Newburg, 
only 14 miles north, above the Highlands. The width of 
the river betw^een the island and Anthony's Nose is only 
three eighths of a mile — less than at any other x)oint below 
Albany ; and the tidal currents here, in the deep w^ater, 
are so swift that this part of the river is called the Race. 
It is about at this point that the river takes a great bend 
to the north-east, recovering from the w^estern bend by 
which it leaves the bay at Peck's Kill, and continues in a 
narrower channel till we pass Cold Spring, where it turns 
again to the east slightly. The last change of direction 
is caused by West-Point, a bold promontory of great 



10 LAKES, EIVEES, AND MOUNTAINS. 

attractions, botli naturally, aesthetically, and socially. Tliis 
famous resort is readied directly by boat, and by ferry 
from tlie railway station of Garrison's, 51 miles from New- 
York City. Tbe Higbland House at Garrison's accommo- 
dates 50 boarders ; reached by stage. Cozzens's, 1 mile 
below the Point, is the principal hotel ; excellent, but lim- 
ited (200) in accommodations. Roe's Hotel is at the extreme 
north end of the plateau. Both houses command magnifi- 
cent views. Cozzens's is nearest to Buttermilk Falls — a 
small cascade 3 miles above Fort Montgomery, where Sir 
Henry Clinton, in 1777, successfully attacked and drove 
out the brothers, Generals George and James Clinton, 
hoping thereby to save Burgoyne's surrender at Saratoga. 
The falls are 100 feet high, of a milk-white color when 
swollen, whence their name. They are situate on Sinni^ 
pink Lake, at the foot of Bear Mountain — the lake so in- 
carnadined at the battles named above as to be otherT\dse 
known as Bloody Pond. 

The best months in which to visit West-Point are July 
and August, not only for viemng the river scenery, which 
is extremely luxuriant at that season, but on account of 
the military exercises, better known as " exhibitions," in 
which all the cadets join. The Military Academy, at the 
extreme north end of the promontory, Flirtation Walk, a 
romantic shaded path cut in the rocky hillside, leading to 
Kosciusko's garden and monument, and numberless other 
minor attractions, render the point one to be long remem- 
bered with pleasure by its visitors. 

Cro'nest, more commonly known as Kidd's Plug Cliff, 
on the western bank, casts its broad shadow upon us as we 
continue our voyage up from West-Point. This is one of 
the highest mountains found in the Highland group — 1428 
feet. Rodman Drake's Culprit Fay has its scene here. 



LAKES, EIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 11 

George P. Morris lived at UndercliflP, a terrace of Bull Hill, 
opposite Cro'iiest, and wrote about it. Cold Spring is the 
railway station for both, these points, the cliff where Kidd 
" plugged " away his treasures being reached by row-boat. 

The village of Cornwall is on the same side of the river 
with Cro'nest, in Orange county. It is a favorite place of 
summer resort ; hotel, Linden Park, kept by C. H. Ring. 
Idlewild, the residence of the late N. P. Willis, is a little 
north of the village. That genial poet has done the resi- 
dents of this vicinity much good service, like Dr. Hitchcock 
at the hills about Amherst, Mass., in substituting Indian or 
poetic names for the barbaric terms often covering these 
splendid cliffs. 

Beyond Cold Spring, on the east bank of the river, the 
Highland range is continued in the jagged precipices of 
the Breakneck and Beacon hills, in height respectively 
1187 and 1685 feet. These mountains are among the 
most commanding features of the river scenery. Mr. 
Lossing remarks of this region, " I rowed to the middle of 
the river in the direction of Cold Spring village, (from 
Newburg,) and obtained a fine view of the Highland en- 
trance to Newburg Bay. On the left, in shadow [sunset] 
stood the Storm King, on the right was rugged Break- 
neck, with its neighbor, round Little Beacon Hill, and be- 
tween was Pollopell's Island, a solitary rocky eminence 
rising from the river a mile north of them. Beyond these 
were seen the expanse of Newburg Bay, the village, the 
cultivated country beyond, and the dim, pale peaks of the 
Katzbergs, [Catskills,] almost 60 miles distant. This view 
is always admired by travelers as one of the most agree- 
able from New- York to Albany." 

Newburg lies on the western bank of the river, nearly 
opposite Fishkill, with which communication is had by 



12 LAKES, EIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 

ferry. It is tlie youngest city in the State, and has a popu- 
lation of 15,000. The hotels are : United States, by H. 
Blake, opposite the landing ; the Powelton, same propri- 
etor, 14- miles from the landing, a quarter-mile from the 
river. The future Boston, Atlantic, and Erie Railway will 
have its western terminus here, and the Company are 
endeavoring to obtain privilege to bridge the river here, 
that they may connect westward : the road now ends at 
Waterbury, Ct., and is known as the Providence, Hartford, 
and Fishkill. Newburg is the scene of many of the 
incidents in Cooper's Spy ; but the tourist vAW find it 
m.ost interesting in the fine landscape and the historical 
reminiscences at Washington's head-quarters, the old Has- 
brouck Mansion, built 1750, now owned by the State. The 
Revolutionary army was disbanded here June 23d, 1783. 
In the spring of that year, at this place, a revolt against 
Congress by the soldiers was quieted by General Wash- 
ington, after he had been offered the power and title of 
king, with such result as the reader may imagine. The 
old mansion stands in the south part of the village. 

Two miles north-east of Fishkill Landing is the Ver- 
planck House, interesting as ha^^ng once been the head- 
quarters of Baron Steuben, and the place in which the 
famous Society of the Cincinnati was organized in 1783. 

Beyond this, the first point of interest is New-Hamburg 
Timnel, an excavation through a rocky promontory, 800 
feet long. All over this bluff, including the roof of 
the tunnel, the arhor xitce, commonly but inaccurately 
called the white cedar, grows most abundantly and 
beautifully. Loudon, the English horticulturist, deems 
these some of the finest specimens of this shrub in the 
world. They grow of all sizes and most perfect in form ; 
but the most beautiful are those of 6 to 10 feet in height. 



LAKES, EIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 13 

whose branches slioot out close to the ground, forming 
perfect cones, and exhibiting nothing to the eye but deli- 
cate sprays and bright green leaves. The traveler can not 
fail to have his attention drawn to these beautiful shrubs 
from the deck of his steamboat. Next to New-Hamburg 
comes Milton Landing on the railway, a \i.llage which, 
with Marlborough lying further back, is noted for vast 
supplies of raspberries, wholly employing one steamboat 
during the season, for the New- York City market. At 
Milton, Theophilus Anthony, a blacksmith, helped to forge 
the chain which was stretched across the river at Fort 
Montgomery by the patriots in 1777. His grandsons, the 
Messrs. Gill, sustain a mill on his place, by the old stone 
mansion. 

At the mouth of the foaming Winnakee Creek, 75 miles 
above New- York City, and the same distance from Troy, a 
pretty Mohegan legend relates that a young Delaware 
chief, with his bride, found a '' safe and pleasant harbor " 
from pursuing Hurons ; whence the name, which is in 
Indian, Apolceepsinclc, now written Poughkeepsie. There 
are on record 42 different spellings of this name. The city 
was settled by the Dutch in 1705, contains 17,000 people, 
and is the third important station on the road to Albany. 
A notoriously poor restaurant at the depot affords edibles 
and potables during the " ten minutes for refreshments.'' 
The city is partly upon a hill-side, slo^Ding to the river, 
but chiefly on an elevated plain, back of which is College 
Hill, whose summit is 500 feet above the town. Here is 
the. College Hill House, standing on the Hyde Park road, 
2 miles from the centre of the town : a first-class, admi- 
rable summer hotel, just opened, with rooms for 50 board- 
ers. The Morgan House is a first-class hotel on the main 
street. Within a few miles' ride are Locust Grove, residence 



14 LAKES, RIYERS, AXD MOUNTAINS. 

of Professor S. F. B. Morse, author of the electro-magnetic- 
telegraph — a beautifully embowered villa ; Yassar College 
for young ladies, a splendid and most complete institution, 
admirable and peculiar in architecture, and the munificent 
gift of Mr. Matthew Yassar, of Poughkeepsie ; the famous 
" Business Colleges " of Poughkeepsie, and the Hyde Park 
road and village, 5 miles distant. Benson J. Lossing re- 
sides here. 

Rondout is opposite Rhinebeck, which is 90 miles from 
New-York City. It stands on the Rondout (Redoubt) Creek, 
2^ miles up which is the Delaware and Hudson Canal. 
The coal business makes Rondout one of the most active 
places on the Hudson. Rhinebeck was named in honor 
of the great river of the country whence came William 
Beekman, the first settler, a sort of Hudson River Penn, in 
1647. The mansion is one of the best specimens of an old 
Dutch homestead to be found in the Hudson valley ; and 
several other fine residences attract the curiosity of 
tourists. Exchange Hotel affords good accommodations 
at Rhinebeck. 

Saugerties and Tivoli, the one on the west and the other 
on the east bank of the river, next attract our attention. 
Saugerties is a picturesque and prosperous manufacturing 
village, at the mouth of the Esopus Creek. Rokeby, the 
estate of William B. Astor, son of John Jacob Astor, was 
built by his father-in-law. General John Armstrong, who 
wrote the addresses to tlie Continental army which came 
so near produchig a revolt, as we saw just now at Xew- 
burg. The place is less than 5 miles below Tivoli. 
Near it is Saint Stephen's College, a training school pre- 
paratory to the General Theological (Episcopal) Seminary 
in Chelsea, New- York City, and established by Mr. John 
Bard, at an expense of S60,000. 



LAKES, RIVERS, AXD MOUXTAIXS. 15 

A little above Tivoli, Clermont, tlie former residence of 
Robert R. Livingston, the first Chancellor of the State of 
JS^ew-York, may be seen at Maiden on the opposite side of 
the river. Besides the eminent public services of the 
Chancellor, his fame is connected with that of Robert 
Fulton in the introduction of steam navigation. It will 
be remembered that the Hudson River boasts the honor 
of having borne upon its bosom the first successful steam- 
boat in the world, and it is at this point that we most fitly 
recall that interesting chapter. Livingston furnished Ful- 
ton tlie means to carry on his experiments, and the 
first successful steamboat trip was made bv the Clermont 
(named in honor of Livingston's residence) in the autumn 
of 1807. She reached Albany in 32 hours from iS'ew-York 
on this first trip ; and thus navigation bv steam, which 
had previously been considered a wild and chimerical pro- 
ject, became an established fact. Chancellor Livingston 
died in 1813. 

Eleven miles north of Tivoli is Catskill Station, where 
passengers on the railway take ferry for Catskill. The 
portion of the river included in this region vrill be found 
fully described under the title, The Catskill Mouxtalxs. 

The city of Hudson, fourth and last chief station on the 
railway, is 115 miles from New- York City. It is an im- 
portant railway point, being the western terminus of the 
Hudson and Boston Railway, which connects Boston with 
this point by the Western road to Chatham, about 20 miles. 
On the other side of the river, also, the "Athens cut-oflP" 
is a new extension of the Xew-York Central Railway, by 
which the Castleton Bar in the river, as well as some of 
the distance between Hudson and Albany is avoided, going 
direct to Schenectady. There is little or nothing of inte- 
rest to the tourist by the river bank here ; the shores, 



16 LAKES, KIYEKS, AXD MOUNTAINS 

(except at the Catskills) have lost tlieir boldness, and are 
henceforth generally low and uninteresting. By taking 
the cars for Canaan, however, on the Hudson and Boston 
road, the tourist will, in little over an hour, be set down at 
the railway station, whence carriages will convey him to Co- 
lumbia Hall, at the famous Lebanon Springs, and Shaker 
village. (See article entitled Lebanon Springs.) 

Coxsackie Station deserves notice as a notable shad-fish- 
ing place. The shad are the most important fish of the 
Hudson, and caught in such immense numbers as to make 
them cheap dishes for the poor man's table. They enter 
the Hudson in immense numbers toward the close of 
March or the beginning of April, and ascend to the head 
of tide-water to spawn. It is while on their passage up 
that the greater number and best-conditioned are caught, 
several hundred being sometimes taken in a single '* catch." 
They generally descend the river at the close of May, when 
they are called " back shad," and are so lean and almost 
worthless, that " thin as a June shad " is a common epithet 
applied to lean persons. The sturgeon is also caught on 
the Hudson in laro^e numbers at most of the fishinor sta- 
tions. The most important of these are in the vicinity of 
Hyde Park, and Low Point, near Poughkeepsie. These 
fish are sold in such quantities in Albany that they have 
been called, in derision, " Albany beef." They vary in size 
from 2 to 8 feet long, and in weight from 100 to 450 
pomids. The catch commences in April and continues 
until the latter end of August. The flesh is used for food 
by some, and the oil that is extracted is considered equal 
to the best sperm as an illuminator. The tourist may often 
see them leaping several feet from the water when chasing 
some smaller fish. Bass and herring are also caught in 
almost every part of the river. 



LAKES, RIYEES, AND MOUNTAINS. l7 

Kinderliook, 125 miles from IsTew-York, 25 from Troy, 
was so named {Kinclefs hoeck, '' Children's Point ") because 
its first settler had a very numerous progeny. President 
Martin Yan Buren spent the last years of his life at his 
country-seat, 2 miles south, called Linden wold. 

Castleton is the liorrihile locus of the river ; the overslaugh^ 
as the Dutch mariners called the hidden sand-bar, is, at low 
tide, an effectual damper on the enthusiasm of the tourist, 
as it is provocative of profanity to the unlearned. There 
is a bad sand-bar in the river, and the multitudinous efforts 
to destroy it have all failed, because the next freshet from 
the mountains will always bring down mud and sand 
enough to cover up the last excavation. The place is 11 
miles below Albany. 

The city of Albany, political capital of the State of New- 
York, presents an imposing appearance as you approach it 
from the south. Standing upon the slope of a hill which 
rises from the flats to a height of 220 feet, it has not failed 
to give to its finest buildings the full benefit of position. 
Among these the traveler will particularly note in his 
view the Capitol, the City Hall, and Dudley Observatory. 
There is no good view from the city to the river, as most 
of the country about tliis point is very flat and uninterest- 
ing. Albany is mainly interesting to a traveler as afford- 
ing an example of how political (and nothing else) a centre 
of government may become ; but its Dutch history will 
also prove very entertaining. The city most nearly ap- 
proaches the cities of Holland, in both architecture, nar- 
row streets, aristocracy, and even language, of any city on 
this continent. The old Dutch families treasure up theii 
mother tongue with great zeal, the Dutch language having 
been until quite a recent date spoken considerably in cer- 
tain circles. The name of the city was changed from Bever- 



18 LAKES, EIVEES, AND MOUNTAINS. 

wyck to Albany at tlie same time that New-York took its 
new title, (in place of New- Amsterdam,) both, cities being 
named for one man, King James II., then Dake of both. 
York and Albany. 

The river above Albany will hardly interest the tourist 
until he comes to that portion of it notable for its falls and 
other features of a mountain brook. The new bridge at 
Troy, nearly a mile in length, will attract his attention, as 
also the Roman Catholic Provincial Seminary of divinity 
for New- York and New-England, on Mount Ida, opposite 
Troy ; but these are rather points of interest to the busi- 
ness traveler than to the tourist, and we may decline to 
pass under the arch which divides the great river of the 
Highlands from the quieter country above. 

THE CATSKILLS. 

The Catskill Mountain House, which is the central point 
for the Catskills, may be reached in 8 to 12 or 13 hours 
from New- York City, by boat or rail, and stage. By rail 
you leave Thirtieth street at 10 A.M., and reach the sta- 
tion opposite Catskill at 2.43 P.M., fare $2.35 ; ferry over 
the river, and Beach's stage line (10 miles, $4) carries you 
up the mountain to the hotel. By steamboat one may 
leave the city at 9 A.M. on the Daniel Drew or C. Yib- 
bard, foot of Desbrosses street ; at 5 p.m. on the Thomas 
(not Mary) Powell or New Champion, Franklin Street pier, 
Saturdays, 2 p.m., or by several other lines ; fare gene- 
rally, $1 to Catskill. Besides the particular stage line 
referred to, from the point where the steam ferry-boat 
lands, carriages and omnibuses take j)assengers to the 
village, half a mile distant, or carry them directly to the 
mountains or elsewhere, as they may desire. The hotels 




Taghkanic Falls, N. Y. 



LAKES, EIYERS, AND MOITNTAINS. 19 

and some of tlie larger boarding-liouses have carriages, or 
stages, which run dailv, or oftener, to and from them and 
the landing and village, while from other houses carriages 
are sent to meet such as are coming to them as boarders, 
at times previously agreed upon. Passengers from Bos- 
ton reach the Catskills by the Boston and Albany (West- 
ern) Railway to Albany, 8 hours, fare $Q, and thence by 
steamboat or Hudson River Railway to Catskill ; or, leav- 
ing the Boston and Albany road at Chatham, 1 hour less, 
take Hudson and Boston Railway to the river shore at 
Hudson, 4 miles north of Catskill ; thence by rail, (Hud- 
son River,) steamboat, or rowboat. 

The scenery and the traditional history of this region 
are alike attractive. We will follow the two together, in 
a brief way. At the landing itself the good ship Half 
Moon, in the classical days (to Knickerbockers, who are 
the aristocrats of the vicinity) of Hendrick Hudson, an- 
chored Sept. 20, 1609. The never-forgotten tale of hid- 
den treasure, or golden ore, too, coming down from the 
days when Governor Wilhelmus Kieft gathered from these 
mountains a scanty store which was lost in the Atlantic, 
occurs to the visitor as his foot touches these famous 
banks. Before we reach the Half- Way House, scenes of 
Revolutionary memories appear, where Indians captured 
and carried away several of the pale-faced settlers. Just 
beyond the Half- Way House or Catskill Mountain Retreat 
of Mr. Bloom, the road divides ; the branch to the right, 
leading directly on, past the Dutch church, up the moun- 
tain, by the Rip Van Winkle ravine, and the grandly soli- 
tary and sublime wooded road, with its lofty, overhang- 
ing cliffs, to the Mountain House. Half a mile or more 
before reaching the smnmit there is an old road on the 
left, leading down the mountain, to Palensville, some 2 



20 LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 

miles south, on wMcli is Moses Rock, a cliff 30 feet Mgli 
and 80 long, covered witli moss, from tlie base of wMch. 
guslies a stream of water, wlience tlie name. A little 
liiglier up, a patli on the right leads to the North Moun- 
tain, following which, half a mile or more, you come to 
an abrupt rock, from the top of which the lakes and the 
high mountains to the south can be seen. On the north 
side of this rock a fine echo may be heard with four dis- 
tinct reverberations. Further on is a precipice, ascended 
by a ladder, where is a large cavern, formed of immense 
rocks rudely thrown together, and called the Bear's Rock. 

Two miles from the summit the coach stops at Sleepy 
Hollow, famous as the reputed site of Rip Van Winkle's 
long nap. Here a house of refreshment has recently been 
built, known as the Rip Van Winkle House, and kept by 
Mr. Ira Saxe. 

The painter, Thomas Cole, made this region his home 
with an enthusiasm akin to the famed Hermit of Xiagara, 
and won his first laurels by the painting of the " Cauter- 
skill Falls." It was in the present vicinity of our journey 
that he caught inspirations from the mountain-views 
which remain upon the canvas in the " Voyage of Life " 
and the unfinished " Cross and the World." Indeed, one 
is vividly reminded, just here, of the young pilgrim in 
the former series: for after leaving Rip Van Winkle's 
" wicked flagon," and coming to a turn in the road where 
the Mountain House suddenly appears, seemingly near by, 
the traveler may fondly anticipate a speedy dinner ; but 
like the stream that seemed to be leading the youth direct 
to the temple in the clouds, the road turns and crooks 
and climbs, and weariness ensues before mine host appears. 

The Mountain House stands upon one of the terraces of 
the mountain, 2500 feet above the river, and 1800 above 



LAKES, RIYERS, AIS^D MOUNTAINS. 21 

the apparent plain. From this point every body of note 
has written a descriptive article, saving ns the necessity. 
(For example, see Cooper's Leather- Stocking.) The view in- 
cludes the Hudson River with its villages from the High- 
lands to Albany, and the mountains of Vermont, Massa- 
chusetts, and Connecticut, including in all an area of about 
10,000 square miles. The sunrise, and a thunder-storm, 
are deemed especial glories ; and at rare intervals an ap- 
parition like the " Spectre of the Brocken '* enlivens a foggy 
morning. From the top of the South Mountain, 300 feet 
above the hotel, near it, some portions of New- Jersey may 
be seen, in addition to the three other States visible from 
this and other points. The North Mountain view, higher 
still, adds but little more. The highest summits are 
Round Top and High Peak, 3800 feet above the sea. 

The Clove is a remarkable ravine 5 miles long. Brack- 
et's Hotel, in the depths of the woods here, is a very popu- 
lar resort for artists and sportsmen. The Two Lakes, 
North and South, are a short distance only from the Moun- 
tain House, and on the direct road to the Cauterskill Falls. 
These falls are 2 miles west from the house, reached by 
stage, or boat on the lake. The Laurel House, Mr. Scliutt 
proprietor, stands near, where guides may be obtained. 
To see the falls to the best advantage, the visitor should 
descend the winding stairs leading from the platform of 
the hotel, and spend an hour or two in exploring the 
gorge and glen below. The descent of the first cascade 
is. 180 feet, and of the second 80 feet ; below these is an- 
other (the Bastion) fall of 40 feet. One thing which im- 
presses the visitor as rather comical, is that the powers 
that be dam the waters, and upon the descent of a party 
to the foot of the second fall, the man at the house above 
very obligingly (after the payment of 25 cents each from 



22 LAKES, RIVERS, AXD MOUNTAINS. 

the party) lets tlie water on, and the effect is surprisingly 
beautiful, well paying for the fatigue of the descent and 
ascent. The Cauterskill has a devious and rapid course of 
8 miles to the Catskill, near the village of Palensville. 

Fawn's Leap, or Dog Hole, is a very attractive fall of 30 
feet, on a tributary to the main stream, 200 or 800 yards 
below High Rocks. It is a perpendicular leap of some 30 
feet, and the stream, here extremely narrowed by the 
rocky banks, :^ushes over an immense concave ledge into 
a caldron from which a fish could scarcely emerge. Not 
very far from it are Haines's Falls, a favorite resort of the 
artists. At the Haines House one pays the usual fee to 
enjoy the scene. The fall has two leaps, the first of 150 
feet, and the second of 80, with a third one below of 60 
feet, and others still, so that in less than one fourth of a 
mile the stream falls 475 feet. The water at the two 
upper falls breaks up into snowy masses. 

A correspondent of the New-TorJc Evening Gazette 
added the following valuable information to the common 
stock last summer : 

" We drove down from the crest of the great turnpike 
from Catskill to Delhi, one of the most frequented of the 
great routes of travel before the days of railways, and 
still a well-traveled road, Avith its daily stage and its daily 
mail, into Durham, where we heard there were some 
beautiful falls. But little did we imagine what was in 
store for us. Landing at a quiet little farm-house, whose 
owner kindly volunteered to pilot us, we struck into the 
meadow, and then into a tempting blackberry patch, till 
we reached the edge of a steep cliff. I^owering ourselves 
down as best we could, we found a rocky glen over whose 
upper wall the stream came leaping in a perpendicular 
fall of 50 or 60 feet into a basin, from which, after recov- 



LAKES, EIYERS, AXD MOUNTAINS. 23 

ering its strength, it daslied over anotlier precipice of 
nearly equal height. For picturesque beauty, our host 
pronounced it superior to the Haines Falls, well known to 
the visitors of the Mountain House, though these are yet 
almost unknown to the general public. In fact, our host, 
though a life-long resident of these parts, had never 
visited them before, and the ' Dominie of the Catskills ' 
has never recorded them in his book." 

THE ERIE RAILWAY. 

Every body knows where the Erie Railway is, where it 
begins and ends, and what its attractions, facilities, and 
prices are, in general. It will be the purpose of this ar- 
ticle to point out to the tourist the chief points of interest, 
where he may look from the windows or delay his journey 
a little, to edification physical and aesthetic. 

Starting from New- York City at 8 A.M., to reach Buffalo 
by midnight, we have the best time for observing the early 
glories of the route. The depot on New- York Island is at- 
tractive beyond the usual rule ; but we speedily plunge 
into the Bergen Tunnel, and for three minutes remain obli- 
vious of aught but noise and terrors. The tunnel is caused 
by a rocky ridge which runs parallel to the Hudson River, 
and cuts off from it the Bergen Heights, and the salt 
marshes beyond, which are watered by the river Hacken- 
sack. Further up the Hudson, this ridge appears as the 
well-known Palisades, visible from the Hudson River Rail- 
way. As soon as we have passed the meadows, we begin 
to observe the suburban residences of exiled tax-payers 
from New- York, dotting and beautifying the landscape 
for nearly 100 miles in this as in all other directions from 
the city. At Boiling Spring several private building-parks 



24 LAKES, RIYERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 

are rapidly becoming occupied ; a spring wliich. bubbles 
out of a ridge gives name to the place. Passaic Falls, at 
Paterson, 50 feet, are notable for their picturesque banks. 
The city of Paterson, one of the most beautiful on the road, 
owes its foundation to Alexander Hamilton, 1791, in the 
cotton interest. The Ramapo Yallev, about 30 miles out, 
2 miles from the town, is famous for Revolutionary me- 
mories of Washington, and fine natural scenery. Fore- 
most is the Torn — the jutting out or shoulder of the Ra 
mapo Gap. On the right a group of beeches ovei^hadows 
the stream of the Ramapo, while on the left rises a knoll, 
capped by a cottage covered ^vith ^dnes ; and immediately 
opposite and in the centre ''swells from the vale" the 
steepled peak of the Torn, from which a very extensive 
view, embracing even the harbor of New- York, may be 
had for the climbing ; and it is said that Washington often 
ascended there to watch the movements of the British fleet. 
At a distance of 1 mile to the west of the railway, at the 
junction of the Sterling Railway, is the beautiful Potague 
Lake, nestled among the hills, about 500 feet above the 
valley. From this point a commanding ^i.ew is obtained 
of the surrounding m.ountains and the winding valley of 
the Ramapo. 

Turner's has the reputation of being the most picturesque 
station on this portion of the road. Looking toward the 
east, the Ramapo Valley appears ; a beautiful cultivated 
hill-country on the north ; to the west, farms, meadows, 
woods, delight the eye. The lover of fine scenery should 
ascend the hill north of the station, and from its summit 
view the country in every direction, ha^-ing a charming 
view of the Mountain Gap, with its humble farm-houses 
and rural church, while beyond are seen the silvery surface 
of the Hudson, the town of Fishkill on the mountain slope, 



LAKES, EI VERS, AXD MOUNTAINS. 25 

and the spires of Newburg. Turner's is surrounded in 
every direction ^\itli lakes of great attractiveness. Rum- 
sey's Lake, 2 miles east, has a surface of 100 acres of water, 
with fine fishing of pickerel, j)erch, etc. ; Round Lake, 3 
miles south-west, 200 acres ; Little Long Lake, 3^ miles 
west, 1 mile long and -^ mile wide ; Mount Basha Lake, 3 
miles west, 800 acres, with splendid fishing of pickerel and 
perch ; Truxedo Lake, 6 miles south-west, is 1^ mile long 
and i mile wide ; Slaughter's Lake, to the east, is 1| mile 
long and 1 mile mde. 

The Orange Hotel, part of which is the depot of the rail- 
way at this point, is an excellent house, accommodating 
150 guests. Terms, $3 per day, or §12 per week. 

Monroe is situated in the midst of what may be termed 
the lake region of Orange county. Here, within a circuit 
of 10 miles, are many fresh-water lakes from 1 to 9 miles 
in extent — Mount Basha, Truxedo, and Greenwood. Green- 
wood Lake is distant only 10 miles from Monroe, and dur- 
ing the summer season has a convenient communication 
by stage, occupying only 2 hours' time in riding. It is a 
great summer resort on account of its beautiful and x^ic- 
turesque scenery, its celebrated fishing, and its salubrious 
atmosphere. The Windermier House, with its grounds 
embracing 400 acres, is the principal resort for visitors and 
families from Xew-York, who remain as permanent boarders 
during the season. The visitor should ascend the moun- 
tain and enjoy its fine prospects. 

We now pass rapidly Greycourt, where a good view of 
Sugar Loaf Mountain appears, and where the artists Crop- 
sey and Beekman reside ; the Newburg Branch diverges 
here, upon which is the homestead of the Clinton family, 
near Washingtonville, where Governor De Witt Clinton 
was brought up, and perhaps born. Goshen, coming next. 



26 LAKES, RIVERS, AOT MOTTNTAINS. 

is located in the centre of tlie great Wallkill Valley. It 
is surrounded by a country of much fruitfulness and 
beauty, presenting natural attractions and appearances 
superior to those of the famed New- York Central Park. 
The country round about for miles is gently undulating. 
Here is produced the famed Goshen butter,, cheese, cream, 
and the even more famous Orange county milk. The former 
President of the Erie, Mr. Berdell, and Mr. D. H. Haight, 
proprietor of the St. Nicholas Hotel, New-York City, have 
elegant residences here. The trout-fishing streams of Sul- 
livan and Ulster may be reached in a few hours' time from 
Groshen, via the Montgomery and Erie road, and by stage 
to Ellenville, one of the most sequestered and beautiful 
towns within the bounds of the Blue Eidge. Sam's Point, 
Montgomery, and Walden, and other interesting localities 
in the vicinity, are equally accessible by the same route. 
Greenwood Lake, Mount Basha Lake, the Wallkill, Otter- 
kill, Pochuck Creek and tributaries, the Warwick Wood- 
lands, the Great Wild Meadows, the Big Spring in the 
trackless Cedar Swamp, which forms a natural cover, and 
where haunt plover, woodcock, and quail, are all located 
" within hailing distance" of Goshen. 

Middletown, 67 miles out, is a pretty enough town, but 
not of special interest for iis. A stage here connects vrith. 
the 8 A.M. train from New- York for Monticello. Tliis is a 
pleasant 'vi.llage, county seat of Sullivan, of some 1200 
inhabitants, situated on a hill, and of considerable attrac- 
tions. Hotels : Monticello, R. B. Townsend ; and Mansion, 
Solomon W. Roger; the latter 1 mile out. About 1 
mile from the ^-lllage, on the borders of Pleasant Lake, 
Mr. J. E. Quinlan has fitted up a house where excellent 
board can be had for families at $8 to §10 per week each 
person. There is also some trout fisliing in the vicinity of 
Monticello. 



LAKES, RIYERS, A:N"D MOUNTAINS. 27 

Otisville is tlie last of tlie milk-depots, and is on tlie 
eastern side of the Shawangunk Ridge, one of the greatest 
obstacles which were overcome in building the Erie Rail- 
way. A long tunnel through the ridge was first pro- 
posed, but after thorough examination the present plan 
was adopted. Passing through a long and heavy rock- 
cut, the summit is passed about 2 miles beyond Otis- 
ville, and then the valley below is reached by gradually 
descending the steep and rugged slope of the Shawan- 
gunk Mountain, in a southerly direction, on a grade 
of about 45 feet to a mile. The character of the 
scenery changes wonderfully after leaving Otisville. We 
pass alternately through gloomy cuts, and then over side- 
hill embankments, commanding magnificent views of the 
romantic valley of the Neversink, traversed by the Dela- 
ware and Hudson Canal, and dotted with farm-houses and 
villages. 

Five miles beyond Otisville are located the Erie and 
Wallkill Lead Mines, owned mostly by English capitalists, 
who commenced work on them several years ago, and 
keep silently at it yet. The lead is fully 85 per cent pure 
metal, and is shipped to England. Sufllcient silver is 
found in the ore to pay the entire expenses of transporta- 
tion and mining. The whole of the western side of the 
mountain is said to be owned by three brothers, from 
whom land can be leased, but not bought. Eight miles 
beyond Otisville is Shin Hollow Switch. Here there is a 
deep cut through a soft soil three fourths of a mile in 
length and 30 feet deep. This portion of the road is of 
the most oppressive loneliness, for the valley is completely 
shut out of sight, soon, however, to reappear in heightened 
beauty and interest, after passing the great rock-cutting 
just two miles ahead of us. The approach to this last 



28 LAKES, RIYERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 

formidable barrier in tlie descent of tlie mountain is very 
fine. We reach it by a high, curved embankment, and 
see on each side of us a steep wall of slate rock, 50 feet in 
height and 2500 feet in length. And now let the traveler 
place himself on the right side of the train, (going west- 
ward,) to catch the noble prospect prepared for him on 
emerging from this dark pass. At its very portal the 
road makes a sudden curve southward, and from the pre- 
cipitous mountain side, along the edge of which we de- 
scend, he beholds the valley of Neversink, its western 
verge bordered by a chain of mountains, at the foot of 
wliich gleams the village of Port Jervis, and its level 
fields losing themselves far in the south, where rolls the 
Delaware River ; beyond which, again, the to^s^Ti of JMil- 
ford, Pa., may be seen in the misty horizon. 

At the junction of the Xeversink River with the Dela- 
ware, is the corner boundary between New- York, Xew- 
Jersey, and Pennsylvania. Port Jervis is a short distance 
north of this place, and is the terminal station of the 
eastern division of the railway. It is named after John 
B. Jervis, the engineer of the Delaware and Hudson Canal. 
This canal is one of the great avenues by which the an- 
thracite coal of Pennsylvania reaches tide-water, and it 
comes down the valley of the Neversink to the Delaware 
at this point. Port Jervis is a pleasant place of summer 
resort for people who are fond of beautiful scenery. Three 
miles beyond, we cross the Delaware River over a wooden 
bridge 800 feet in length. For 26 miles after we shall 
be in the State of Pennsylvania. The company pays 
to the Quaker State the annual sum of §10,000 for the 
privilege of running their road on this side of the river, 
but are thereby exempted from further taxation. 

At Port Jervis we enter upon the second division of the 



LAKES, EIYERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 29 

railway, extending 104 miles to Susquelianna ; near Sho- 
liola the road lies on the mountain side, several feet above 
the river, along a mighty gallery, supported by grand 
natural abutments of jagged rock. Three miles of this 
section cost the company $300,000. The region about 
Narrowsburg is rendered famous in Cooper's Last of the 
Mohicans; but the scenery is not striking. At Deposit 
we leave the Delaware River. Summit, 8 miles farther, is 
1366 feet above the level of the sea. Deposit being 997 
feet above, a difference of 369 feet in 8 miles. It is a 
wild and desolate place. From this point the road 
descends on a grade of 60 feet per mile for about 8 
miles. As the train descends into the valley, there seems 
no promise of the wonders which are awaiting us ; but 
they come suddenly, and, before we are aware, we are tra- 
versing the famous Cascade Bridge, a solitary arch, 250 
feet wide, sprung over a dark ravine of 184 feet in depth. 
Ko adequate idea of the bold spirit and beauty of the scene 
can be had from the cars. It will richly repay the 
traveler to come to a fall stop and explore the fastnesses 
of this vicinity. 

We now for the first time behold the Susquehanna 
River, a point ranking high in the famous places on the 
road, and adding to the reasons for delay. The Starucca 
Viaduct, also, is here, a little over the State line in Penn- 
sylvania. It is 1200 feet in length, 110 feet high, and has 
18 arches, each of 50 feet span ; the whole cost $320,000. 
A fine painting by Cropsey, representing this great bridge 
and the valley beneath it, will be remembered as one of 
the prizes in the notorious Crosby Opera House lottery. 
A little beyond the viaduct, and just this side (New-York) 
of Susquehanna Station, the road passes over the Canne- 
wacta Creek and village of Lanesborough, on a trestle- 
bridge 450 feet long and 70 feet high. 



30 LAKES, MYERS, AKD MOUNTAINS. 

Earkwood, 206 miles from New- York, in Broome county, 
must be remembered as tbe birtbplace of Joe Smith, the 
Mormon. 

Bingliamton is a beautiful and liealtliful city, having a 
fine view of the river and neighboring country from the 
hill whereon stands the elegant State Inebriate Asylum of 
New- York. Owego is notable for similar beauties of land- 
scape ; and Glenmary, once the home of N. P. Willis, 
where he wrote his Letters from under a Bridge, on the 
Owego creek. 

Elmira is a town of much beauty, which is more than 
can be said of Corning, the seat of a State arsenal. The 
latter is the point at which diverges the Buffalo Branch. 

Hornellsville, 41 miles from Corning, 332 from New- 
York, is the third eating-station from the metropolis, and 
has perhaps the second best saloon in the State. Passen- 
gers by the night express breakfast here. 

Beyond this, the main road becomes for the most part 
quite uninteresting, the country sparsely settled, wild, 
and desolate. The valley of the Genesee commences just 
beyond Tip Top Summit, 345 miles out, the highest grade 
on the road being 1700 feet above tide level. We pass 
over the Alleghany watershed, or ridge, at Cuba, 378 
miles out, and leave the Genesee waters to flow to the At- 
lantic via the Saint Lawrence, while the Alleghany River, 
whose course we now pursue, flows down by way of the 
Ohio and Mississippi to the lower Atlantic, through the 
Gulf of Mexico. From Clean we enter the lands of the 
Indian Reservation, 30 miles long by a half-mile on each 
side the river ; the Senecas own it. 

Salamanca is interesting or important to the tourist only 
in view of its awful desolateness, reminding one vividly 
of Dickens's "Eden,'' in Martin Chuzzleicit ; and its 



LAKES, EIYERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 31 

being the eastern terminus of the Atlantic and Great 
Western Railway. The land, low, wet, stumpy, belongs 
to the ''poor Indian." Dunkirk, 460 miles from New- 
York, brings us, glad enough, to Lake Erie. 

NORTH-WESTERN DIVISION. 

On the branch of the Erie Railway diverging from the 
trunk in a north-westerly direction to Attica and Buffalo, 
there are few points of interest ; but one of them, particu- 
larly, deserves special mention. 

Portage, 362 miles from New- York, 61 from Buffalo, is a 
village of 1519 inhabitants, located on the Genesee Valley 
Canal and the Genesee River. In its immediate vicinity 
are the Portage Falls, three in number, each of which is 
remarkable for its beauty and grandeur. The upper, or 
Horseshoe Falls, 70 feet high, are about three quarters of a 
mile below the village. The Middle Falls are about one 
quarter of a mile further down the river. Here the water 
pours in an unbroken sheet into a chasm 110 feet below, 
which is bounded by perpendicular ledges. A cave, called 
the Devil's Oven, has been worn into the rocks on the west 
bank, near the bottom of the falls. In low water 100 per- 
sons can be seated in it ; but when the river is high, it is 
filled with water. Two miles below the Middle Falls, be- 
fore reaching the third, the river pursues a winding course 
between perpendicular walls, across which a man might al- 
most leap, then descends in a succession of rocky steps almost 
as regular as a staircase, dives under a shelving rock, and 
descends into a narrow pass about 15 feet wide. Descend- 
ing perpendicularly for 20 feet, it strikes against the base 
of high rocks, whirls back, and, turning nearly at right 
angles, falls into a deep pool overhung with shelving 



32 LAKES, RIVEES, AND MOUNTAINS. 

rocks. Sugar Loaf, an isolated mass of rock, J 5 feet in di- 
ameter and 100 feet liigh, rises from the river-bed at a 
bend in its course and receives nearly tbe whole force of 
the rushing waters. These falls are accessible only from 
the west side. The perpendicular bank on the west of the 
river is 380 feet high at one point. The bridge by which 
the railway crosses the river is the largest wooden railway 
bridge in the world, built at a cost of $175,000, and stand- 
ing upon 13 strong stone piers set in the bed of the river, 
and rising sufficiently above high- water mark to be secure 
against freshets. Above these piers a timber trestle-work 
rises 234 feet, on the top of which the track of the road is 
laid. The bridge is 800 feet long, and is so constructed 
that any timber in the whole structure can be removed 
and replaced at pleasure. The first and second falls can 
be seen from the bridge, and present a grand appearance 
as they are seen in the distance dashing over the rocks and 
plunging into the black basin. In some places the rocks 
of the ravine are 300 feet high, and small streams, trick- 
ling over the top of this wall, dissolve into blue mist long 
before they reach the bottom. The Genesee Valley Canal 
crosses the river on an aqueduct just above the bridge, 
then, running parallel with the river, passes under the 
railway bridge on the high bluff of rocks forming the east 
bank of the river. The perforations for a tunnel which 
was commenced and then abandoned, may be seen in dri- 
ving from the hotel to the bottom of the ravine. Alto- 
gether this place will well repay the visitor who has suf- 
ficient leisure for a stay of some days. The view from be- 
low is quite necessary to one who would enjoy the full 
grandeur of the scene. Portage^-ille, the nearest village, 
is on the west side of the river, 1|- miles south of the sta- 
tion, in the township of Genesee Falls, Wyoming county, 



AND MOUNTAINS. o-) 

tlie river here forming tlie boundary between tbe two coun- 
ties. There is a large and good liotel near tlie station, 
and another, the Ingham House, in Port age ville. Stages 
run from the hotel to the bridge. 

Gainesville, 368 miles, is a place of some interest. Good 
building-stone is quarried in the vicinity ; and at Gaines- 
ville Creek, 4 miles from the station, a young ladies' semi- 
nary, accommodating 250 pupils, trains up scholars in the 
famous Mount Holyoke manner. To the north-east of 
Gainesville Station is Silver Lake, 3 miles long, the scene 
of action of the " Kraken," or monster serpent, whose al- 
leged performances created so much excitement in 1855. 

Warsaw, 48 miles from Buffalo, is the county-seat of 
Wyoming county. The village is about a mile east of the 
station, on Oatka Creek, in a deep valley, on the west slope 
of which the railway passes through the township at a 
considerable elevation. Stages run daily to Arcade, in the 
south-western corner of the county, 25 miles, and to Bata ' 
via, the county-seat of Genesee. On the Arcade stage-route 
is Wethersfield Springs, 6 miles from Warsaw, a place 
of some importance, and the seat of the " Doolittle Insti- 
tute," founded and endowed by Ormus Doolittle, Esq. It 
was the early home of the Hon. James R. Doolittle, of 
Wisconsin. 

Attica is on Tonawanda Creek, 392 miles from New- 
York. The Buffalo Division of the Erie Railway, which 
diverges from the main line at Corning, and passes through 
Avon and Bata\da, here reunites with the North-western 
Division, forming a single line from this point to Buffalo. 
A branch of the New- York Central Railway extends from 
here to Batavia. 

The tourist's interest subsides as he approaches a city, 
and it is only as an individual member of some grade in 



34 LAKES, EIYERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 

society that lie will, generally, travel tlirougli tlie stone- 
paved streets. Buffalo, to one seeking rural pleasure, 
therefore, will cause but little delay. The principal things 
to see are the Mercantile Library rooms, St. Joseph's (Ro- 
man Catholic) Cathedral — the most imposing in the State, 
far superior to St. Patrick's in New- York — the Episcopal 
church of St. Paul, with its chime of bells ; the grain eleva- 
tors at the water's edge, etc. Other objects of interest will 
be found, according to each visitor's idiosyncrasies. The 
chief, hotels are the Mansion, corner of Exchange street, 
and the Tifft, farther out, both on Main (the principal) 
street. The city was founded by the Holland Land Com- 
pany in 1801 ; burned by the British, 1814 ; every house 
was destroyed but one, which is still standing near the 
corner of Mohawk and Main streets. In 1815, buildings 
were again erected, and in 1825, Congress voted $80,000 
for the sufferers. The principal influence in producing 
the rapid growth of the city was exerted by the construc- 
tion of the Erie Canal, completed in October, 1825, which 
has ts western terminus here. Next to New- York City, 
Buffalo is the most important commercial city in the State. 
The French, who were its first visitors, named it " Bufiie " — 
English, Buffalo — from the wild oxen which they saw in 
great droves around. The plan upon which Joseph Elli- 
cott (who assisted his brother Andrew in laying out Wash- 
ington City) laid out the streets of Buffalo, is worth noticing. 
The streets are wide and straight, and generallv cross each 
other at right angles. A few of the side streets, however, en- 
ter Main street at an angle of 45°. These latter streets, cross- 
ing the others at their points of intersection, form a large 
number of places or squares, give variety to the outlines of 
the city, and destroy the monotony which would have been 
produced by a rigid adherence .to a rectangular plan. 



EIYEES, AND MOUNTAINS. 35 



STATIONS ON OTHER DIVISIONS. 

Blood's, 331 miles from New- York, 40 from Corning, 
near tlie northern boundary of Steuben county, on the 
Corning", Avon, and Rochester Division, is an important 
station, from its connection with the Canandaigua Lake 
route. A daily line of stages runs to Naples, at the head 
of the lake, and a steamer plies daily between the latter 
place and Canandaigua. 

For Avon Springs, see article on Mineral Springs of 
New-York. 

Conesus, 348 miles, lies between Hemlock and Conesus 
Lakes, two beautiful sheets of water. Marrowback Hills, 
in the eastern part, near Hemlock Lake, rise to about 1200 
feet above it. Conesus is widely known as the " Round- 
Pie Station," from the excellent small round pies long kept 
for sale at the lunch-room of the station-house. 

At Livonia, 4 miles further, there is an elm-tree which 
will interest any admirer of the now destroyed " Pittsfield 
Elm" in Massachusetts. That venerable tree was 128 feet 
in height, and for 90 feet was bare of branches. The town 
is not of special interest. 

Caledonia, on the Avon and Buffalo branch, 59 miles 
from the latter place, is in the northern part of the most 
northern township of Livingston county. Settlement mad e 
in 1797 ; has 650 inhabitants. At this place, f of a mile 
from the station, is a celebrated spring, remarkable alike 
for the volume and purity of its waters, and for the great 
supply of trout originally abounding there, and still kept 
up by artificial means. The spring is now the property of 
the veteran sportsman, Seth Green. 

At Leroy, 52 miles from Buffalo, 381 from New- York, is 
situated Ingham University, a young ladies' college, for- 



36 LAKES, RIYERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 

merly presided over by tlie Kev. Dr. S. H. Cox, father of 
Bishop Cox of tlie Episcopal Diocese in Western New- York, 
and now under the nominal charge of the Rev. Dr. S. D. 
Burchard. In the eastern part, south of the creek, is an 
extensive tract of oak openings, covered thickly with stone, 
and hard to cultivate. 

Batavia, Genesee county, 398 miles from New- York, 37 
from Buffalo, was settled in the early part of the century. 
Five branches of the Central Railway converge here — from 
Albany by Rochester, from Albany by Canandaigua, from 
Buffalo, from Niagara Falls and Canada, and from Attica. 
The village has a population of 3000. It was here that 
the first meeting to advocate the construction of the Erie 
Canal was held in 1809. The war of 1812 put an end to 
the agitation of the subject, but it was renewed after peace 
was proclaimed. The abduction of Morgan, the alleged be- 
trayer of the secrets of Freemasonry, took place here. He 
came to Batavia to write and print his work. He made no se- 
cret of this work, and soon an excitement was raised, during 
which, under a pretense of taking him to Canandaigua for 
trial for money loaned him, conspirators carried him off, no 
one knew whither until long after. The most probable con- 
clusion was, that the Niagara^ River or Lake Erie was made 
Lis grave. The publication went on under one Miller. A 
civil war arose, and men armed with clubs met to demolish 
the office ; but a cannon in the hands of the citizens kept 
them off until the book was published, when violence ceased. 

For Oak Orchard Acid Springs, see article on Mineral 
Springs of New- York. 



LAKES, EIYERS, AXD irOUNTAI^TS. 37 

THE ADIRONDACK EEGION, 

The wilderness of Northern New- York, commonly 
spoken of as tlie ''Adirondack Region/' is a plateau rang- 
ing from 1500 to 1800 feet above tide. It is 100 miles in 
diameter. On tlie north and east it approaches within 
30 or 40 miles of the Canada line and Lake Champlain ; 
on the south, within 15 or 20 miles of the Mohawk River, 
and on the west, mthin the same distance of Black River. 
It embraces nearly the whole of Esses, Warren, and 
Hamilton counties, the south-west portion of Clinton, the 
south half of Franklin, the south-eastern third of St, Law- 
rence, the eastern third of Lewis, and the northern half of 
Herkimer, Different portions of it are known under differ- 
ent names. The northern portion is called the Cliateaugay 
\Yoods ; the St. Regis Woods lie next below ; then comes 
the Saranac Region ; then that of Racket Lake ; to the east 
extend the Adirondacks ; and below, south and south-west- 
erly, are the Lake Pleasant Region, and John Brown's 
Tract. 

We may here note, from Mr. Street's valuable Woods 
and Waters, (to which, indeed, we are mainly indebted 
for the facts in this article,) some of the principal routes 
into the wilderness from Eastern, Southern, and Western 
New-York= 

1, Into the Chateaugay Woods. — 1. From Platts- 
burgh to Dannemora State Prison, and Chazy Lake, 25 or 
30 miles, over a road. 

2. From Rouse's Point to Chateaugay Four Corners and 
Chateaugay Lakes. 

II. I^TTO THE Sakanac Regiox. — 3. By steamboat to 
Port Kent, (or steamboat or railway to Burlington opposite,) 
on Lake Champlain. Thence by post-coach to Keeseville 



38 LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 

(Essex county) 4 miles. From Keeseville 46 miles to 
Baker's Saranac Lake House, 2 miles short of the Lower 
Saranac Lake ; or to Martin's, on tlie bank of tlie Lower 
Saranac ; or to Bartlett's, between Round Lake and Upper 
Saranac Lake, 13 miles from Martin's. 

Tlie Keeseville road is a good, traveled road, planked 
from Keeseville to Franklin Falls, 30 miles from Keese- 
ville. 

At tlie village of Au Sable Forks, 12 miles from Keese- 
ville, the visitor can turn off into a road, through the village 
of Jay, intersecting the Elizabethtown road, about 12 
miles from Baker's. This road leads through the famous 
Whiteface, or Wilmington Notch. 

4. By steamboat to WestT)ort on Lake Champlain. 
Thence to Ehzabethtown, and thence to Baker's, or Mar- 
tin's, or Bartlett's. This route is about the same distance 
as the Keeseville route, but the road is by no means so 
good. 

III. Ikto the Adihoxdack, Racket, aisd Hudson 
RiYER Regioxs.-— 5. From Crown Point, on Lake Cham- 
plain, to Root's, about 20 miles. From Root's to the Adi- 
rondack Lower Works, 20 miles : thence to Long Lake, 
20 miles. A stage runs from Root's to Long Lake usually 
once a week during the summer. 

From the Lower Works to Adirondack Village or Upper 
Works,by water, (through Lake Sanford,) 10 or 12 miles ; 
by road, ditto. 

From the Upper Works to Mount Tahawus, (Mount 
Marcy,) 4 miles, and 3 miles to top. 

From the Upper Works to the famous Indian Pass, (the 
most majestic natural wonder, next to Xiagara, in the 
State,) 4 miles. 
From the Indian Pass to Scott's, on the Elizabethtown ' 



LAKES, RIVERS, AXD MOUNTAINS. 39 

road, (tlirongli the woods, with, scarcely a path,) 7 miles ; 
thence to Baker's, (over a road,) 14 miles. 

0. From G-lenn's Falls to Root's, over a good road, 30 
miles, namely : 

From Glenn's Falls to Lake George, 9 miles ; thence to 
Warrensburgh, 6 miles ; thence to Chester, 8 or 10 miles ; 
thence to Pottersville, 6 or 8 miles ; thence to Root's, and 
thence to Long Lake, or the Lower or the Upper Works ; 
or, from Pottersville to the Boreas River, 15 miles. 

7. From Carthage, in Jefferson county (by way of the 
Beach road) to Long Lake, 40 or 50 miles ; thence to Pen- 
dleton, 10 miles ; thence to tludson River Bridge, about 5 
miles ; thence to the Lower Works, about 5 miles. Can 
drive the whole distance from Carthage to the Lower 
Works. 

8. From Fort Edward to Glenn's Falls and Lake George ; 
thence to Johnsburgh ; thence to North Creek ; thence to 
Eagle Lake or Tallow Lake, (the middle of the three Blue 
Mountain Lakes.) From North Creek to Eagle Lake, 20 
miles. 

9. By road from Saratoga Springs to Lakes Pleasant 
and Piseco. 

IV. Into the John Bkown Tract Region. — 10. From 
Utica by railway to Boone ville ; thence to Lyonsdale and 
Port Leyden, 7 miles by stage road ; thence to Deacon 
Abby's place, 5^- miles, over a good road ; thence to 
Arnold's, (over rather a poor road, although passable by 
wagon,) 14 miles. 

The eastern portion of the plateau is exceedingly moun- 
tainous. Here lies the Adirondack range, or group, the 
m.ost northerly in the State, extending in a general north- 
east direction from Little Falls, on the Mohawk River, to 
Cape Trembleau at Lake Champlain. This range presents 



40 LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 

the conical summits cloven into sharp gray peaks pecnliar 
to its liyperstliene formation, and attains in some of its 
peaks more than the height of one mile — the limit of eter- 
nal snow. 

Th^ese peaks are Tahawus or Mount Marcy, (which is the 
central and tallest, 5467 feet high,) Mount Mclntyre, 
Mount Saint Anthony, (corrupted to Sanantoni,) and Mount 
Colden ; they are all generally isolated, sloping some- 
what moderately toward the north, but precipitous at the 
south. Other summits rise north, south, and west, some 
equal in height to those named (except Tahawus) and 
others but little inferior — Dix's Peak, Xipple Top, Blue 
Mountain, Mount Seward, (a cluster of peaks,) CoA^e Hill, 
Moose Mountain, Mackenzie's Pond Mountain, and White- 
face. The last is the most northern of all the high crests 
of the wilderness, and hardly inferior in elevation to Taha- 
wus, being just about one mile high, (5200 feet.) From its 
summit 30 lakes may be seen. The region lying around 
the south base of Mount Seward was called by the Indians 
Cough-sa-ra-geh, or the " Dismal \yilderness." 

In the middle portion of the plateau the mountains are 
generally rounded, and, like most of those mentioned 
above, waving from base to top with forest. The western 
portion is pleasantly varied by hill and plain. One great 
valley shaped like a Y crosses the whole plateau in a 
north-east direction. It begins at the junction of Moose 
River with the Black River, continues 70 miles to a 
point 6 miles south of Upper Saranac Lake, here branch- 
ing northerly to Potsdam in Saint Lawrence county, and 
north-easterly to Plattsburg on Lake Champlain. A re- 
markable chain of lakes and streams extends along this 
valley and its north-eastern branch, linking, (with a few 
carries, and with the exception of 20 miles of rapids 



LAKES, RIVEES, AND MOUNTAINS. 41 

on tlie lower end of Moose River,) Lake Cliamplain, 
through the Saranac River and Lakes, the Racket River, 
Long, Forked, Racket Lakes, the Eight Lakes, and Moose 
and Black Rivers, with Lake Ontario. The River Saint 
Lawrence is linked with this chain by the Racket 'River 
traversing the northern branch of this valley. 

llth. From Utica by railway to Booneville ; thence to 
Booth's Mills, 11 miles, over a good wagon road; thence 
to Arnold's by pack-horses, (sent by Arnold to Booth's 
Mills,) 14-| miles, over a bad road. 

12th. From Utica by railway to Alder Creek ; thence by 
road to the Reservoir Lakes. 

13th. From the village of Pros^Dect (Oneida county, and 
reached by railway,) through Herkimer county, to More- 
house, in Ham.ilton county. 

14th. From Ogdensburg to Potsdam, on the Racket Riv- 
er, by railway ; thence to Colton by stage, 10 miles ; thence 
to foot of the Little Bog at McEwen's, on the Racket River, 
12 miles, by private conveyance, over a good road ; thence 
by boat, 1-| miles, to Bog Falls ; then a short carry on east 
side of river ; thence to Harris's place, 4^ miles, oxDposite 
the mouth of the Jordan River ; thence 3i miles, by wagon 
road, to John Ferry's ; thence 3 miles farther on, same 
road, to foot of Moose Head Still Water ; thence through 
the latter, 6 miles : thence 9 miles to Racket Pond ; and 
thence 5 miles to Big Tupper's Lake. 

It should be added here, that two, at least, of these en- 
trances to the Adirondacks lie upon routes highly attrac- 
tive in themselves to the tourist. The fourth and last, 
'' into the John Brown Tract region," starts from Booneville, 
which is upon the Utica and Black River Railway, 18 
miles from the famous Trenton Falls, on the same road. 
(See article Trenton Falls.) 



42 LAKES, RIYEES, AND MOUNTAINS. 

The second entrance is made over tlie plank-road lead- 
ing from Port Kent, on Lake Cliamplain, to Keeseville. 
Midway between these two villages occurs the Au Sable 
Chasm, of late years beginning to be" famous, and this 
spring honored T^i.th several truthful sketches in the Na- 
tional Academy of Design. About a mile and a half from 
Keeseville, the Au Sable Eiver makes a leap of some 
30 feet, into a semi-circular basin of great beauty ; a 
mile further down, another precipice, greatly resembhng 
Niagara in general contour, dismisses the river to a 
course 150 feet below, amid the wildest scenery. Fol- 
lowing the stream, now rapidly narro\\i-ng, deepening, 
and foaming, yet further down, we come to the Chasm — 
a section fully rivaling in grandeur any thing east of the 
Rocky Mountains. At the narrowest point in the river, 
where a wedged boulder cramps the channel to a -svidth 
of little over 5 feet, a great curiosity is noticed in that 
the walls of the river, varying hereabouts from 90 to 
125 feet in height, appear on one side inclined and worn, 
as though some great torrent had swept over them ; while 
the opposite wall stands erect and jagged. Still lower 
down, toward the lake, (Champlain,) the walls stand apart 
about 50 feet, more than 100 feet high, descending quite 
to the water's edge, in a sheer perpendicular line, and 
extending this mammoth canal, with occasional widen- 
ings, for more than a half-mile. The whole region is 
awfully grand, and is attracting multitudes of artists 
every year. The tourist, going to the woods, will do 
well to delay a day at Keeseville, and study this wonderful 
chasm. The Au Sable House, at Keeseville, is open ail 
summer, and boasts a very superior table and excellent 
rooms. Board, $2 per day; $8 and upward per week. 



LAKES, EIVERS, AXD MOUNTAINS. 43 

The Chasm House is 2 miles from the village, just by 
the great fall. 

All the wild animals of our northern latitude, the pan- 
ther, bear, wolf, and wild-cat, are here, with the moose, 
deer, fisher, sable, otter, mink, and muskrat. The moose 
is the rarest of all. The eagle, the partridge, the loon, 
the duck, are likewise found ; lake trout swarm in the 
broad waters, and speckled trout in the cold, clear spring- 
brooks and rapid streams. Ten or twelve years ago, this 
wilderness hardly contained a hut or shanty, and was 
rarely invaded by visitors. But of late the number of 
sportsmen and explorers has gradually but greatly in- 
creased. The trout, however, are as abundant as ever, as 
are also the deer ; but the latter have grown more timid, 
and are less certainly found. The shout of the loon, too, 
now rarely meets the ear. There are no settlements of 
any size ; but the edges of the wilderness are thinly in* 
habited by hunters and trappers, who pierce its deepest 
recesses in their light boats, and act as guides to visitors 
in summer. 

The centre of the plateau comprises the region of the 
Saranac Lakes, the Racket River from Racket Lake to 
Perciefield Falls, and a tract around Tupper's Lake. In it 
are found all the distinctive features of the plateau — broad 
and beautiful expanses of water ; the loveliest river of the 
forest ; the prettiest cascades ; one of the highest moun- 
tains, commanding the very grandest prospect of all ; and, 
save one, the sublimest gorge. The chief and almost the 
only home of the moose lies within it ; trout swarm in the 
myriad brooks ; and the deer are as plentiful as in any 
other spot. 



44 LAKES, RIVEES, AND MOUNTAIjSTS. 



THE CONITECTICUT VALLEY. 

A Pleasant Route to the White Mouktaes^s and 
Canada.— The best route from New-York to the White 
Mountains and Quebec is tlirough the Connecticut Valley, 
It is 70 miles shorter than any other. 

In leaving New- York for Montreal, the tourist who has 
no time to spare will take the 12.15 p.m. train, arriving at 
Springfield at 6 o'clock. Here you have half an hour for 
supiDer. From Springfield to Saint Albans, sleeping-cars 
are run on all night trains, going through without change. 
You take breakfast at Saint Albans at 6 a.m., and arrive at 
Montreal at 9.30 A.M. Returning, you leave Montreal at 
3.30 P.M., take supper at Saint Albans, breakfast at Spring- 
field, and dinner in New- York. 

But the pleasure tourist will not rush over the ground 
like this. He will take the New-Haven and Hartford boat 
at New- York, and enjoy a delightful sail upon the Sound. 
This will allow of leisure for a ramble about New-Haven, 
or Hartford, or both, and time can well be spent in these 
beautiful cities. The Nev/-Haven House in the former, 
and the Allyn House in the latter, are the best hotels = 
The true point of departure will be Springfield. 

In proceeding to the White Mountains, Lake Memphre- 
magog, Quebec, Montreal, Mount Mansfield, or intermedi- 
ate points, you will take the cars of the Connecticut River 
Raibvay, in Springfield, on the north side of the depot. 
If you are unacquainted with the route, remember that 
the cars going either north or south, enter and leave the 
Springfield depot at its western end. 

Between Springfield and Lake Memphremagog there is 
no change of cars. An elegantly furnished ladijs' car 
runs through both ways on the morning trains. Going 



rMJ^'y 




Crystal Cascade, White Mountains. 



45 



nortli on the train wliicli leaves Springfield at 7.45 A.M., 
you stop about 20 minutes at Bellows Falls, where you 
can take dinner at the refreshment-room, or wait until the 
arrival of the train at White River Junction at 1.15 p.m. 
At this place you have half an hour for dinner, either in 
going or returning from the White Mountains. Adjoining 
the refreshment-room there is a dining-hall, where you 
will find a good dinner. At Wells River, 40 miles from 
White River Junction, you change cars in going to the 
White Mountains. From there to Littleton the distance 
by the White Mountains Railway is 20 miles. From Lit- 
tleton you proceed by stage to Profile House, 11 miles, 
and to Crawford House, 24 miles. 

The tourist should bear in mind that the Crawford 
House is in the White Mountains, and the Profile House 
in the Franconia Mountains. If you call for a ticket for 
the White Mountains, the agent will give you one to the 
Crawford House. You will find it to your advantage 
to purchase one to the Profile House, as this will save you 
13 miles of staging the same day. If you leave White 
River Junction at 8.20 a.m., you reach the Profile House at 
1, and the Crawford House at 4 p.m. If you leave at 1.45 
P.M., (the morning train from Springfield,) you arrive at 
the Profile House at 6.30, and at the Crawford House at 9.30. 

At Lake Memphremagog, 105 miles from White River 
Junction, and 229 from Springfield, the cars stop at the 
door of the Memphremagog House, on the shore of the 
lake. Leaving Springfield at 7.45 a.m., you arrive there 
at 6.30 P.M. The next morning you can leave with Capt. 
Fogg on the steamer Mountain Maid, for a trip through 
the lake, which is 30 miles in length. You can stop at 
the Mountain House, 12 miles from the Memphremagog 
House, and ascend Owl's Head, which is nearly 3000 feet 



4G 



LAKES, RITEES, AXD MOUNTAIK-S. 



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LAKES, KIYEES, AND MOUI^TAINS. 47 

above tlie lake, or proceed to Magog, at tlie outlet. From 
Magog yon can stage it 16 miles to tlie Grand Trunk 
Railway, at Sherbrooke, and proceed tlience to Quebec or 
Montreal. 

In going to Mount Mansfield, you proceed to Water- 
bury, on tlie Vermont Central Railway, where you take 
the stage for Stowe, 10 miles further north. At Stowe 
there is a first-class hotel, capable of holding 300 guests. 
This is 8 miles from the summit, where there is another 
hotel, which will accommodate about 100 persons. Coach- 
es run from Stowe to the Halfway House, 3 miles from 
the Summit House. The remainder of the distance is ac- 
coMLplished on horseback. 

Rides about Hartford. — Among these may be men- 
tioned : to Tumble Down Brook, 8 miles west by Albany 
road ; to Talcott Mountain, 9 miles west ; to West-Hart- 
ford, 3-^- miles ; to Wethersfield, 4 miles ; to Glastenbury, 
4 miles ; over Newington Mountain, 3^- miles ; to Prospect 
Hill, to Bloomfield, and last to Shipman's at Rocky Hill, 
some 7 miles. 

Springfield. — Springfield is ths oldest town in Massa- 
chusetts on the Connecticut River, having been settled in 
1636. It is chiefly noted for the United States Armory, 
Springfield BepuUican, large depot, Hampden Park, and 
the residence of Dr. J. G. Holland, the author and lec- 
turer. It has also a very beautiful cemetery, well worthy 
of a visit. The two principal business streets are Main 
and State ; the former running past the depot, and the lat- 
ter to the Armory. 

The Smith & Wesson pistols are made in Springfield ; 
and it is also famous for its superb hotel, the Massassoit, 
than which there is no better in the country. This is ad- 
joining the depot, and is the grand point of refreshment 



48 ^ LAKES, RIVERS, AXD ]\IOUXTAi:>S. 

for all tourists tlirougli tlie Connecticut Yalley. There 
are many beautiful drives about Springfield. A day can 
be spent bere very pleasantly and profitably. Visitors are 
allowed to inspect tbe o^Derations at tbe Armory, a mile 
from tlie depot. 

Passing Cbicopee, and its famous Ames Manufacturing 
Works, whence come so many elegant bronzes, you soon 
look out upon the wonderful dam at Holyoke, and in a few 
minutes more are in the shadows of Mounts Tom and 
Holyoke. Arrived at Northampton, there is an abundance 
to attract the attention. 

NoRTHAMPTOX, HoLYOKE, AXD Amherst. — Four miles 
south-west of Xorthampton is Easthampton, with its fac- 
tories, and Williston Seminary. Six miles south-east is 
South-Hadley, famous for its Mount Holyoke Seminary, 
founded by Mary Lyon. Florence, the little village that 
has given the name to a popular sewing-machine, is only 
3 miles from Northampton. 

But of the surroundings of this lovely town, Amherst 
and Mount Holyoke are the most interesting. Amherst is 
7 miles east, and is noted for its rare natural scenery. 
Upon the crest of one of its hills tower the college build- 
ings, whence have gone forth such men as Mr. Beecher, 
Dr. Storrs, Dr. Hitchcock, Dr. Huntington, and Governor 
Bullock. Back of the town, upon a beautiful eminence, 
summer visitors find a comfortable hotel, known as the 
Orient House. There are mineral springs adjoining. The 
Massachusetts State Amicultural Colleo^e is located here. 

Mount Holyoke is on the east side of the Connecticut, 
2 miles from Northampton. It is 1000 feet in height. 
Here in 1821 was built the first house erected on "any 
mountain in New-England. It is a favorite place of resort, 



LAKES, EIVERS, ANB MOUNTAINS. 49 

and during a single season from 15,000 to 20,000 people 
visit its summit, coming from nearly every Xortliern and 
Western State in the Union. The view is beautiful and 
picturesque, and is pronounced by distinguished travelers 
to be the finest in America. N. P. Willis, and President 
Hitchcock, the latter distinguished as a geologist, have 
written glowing descriptions of its unrivaled beauty ; while 
Jenny Lind, during a visit to it when on her concert-tour 
through this country, spoke of it in terms of unqualified 
praise. So great a diversity of scenery is rarely met with. 
Mountain, meadow, river, and valley are harmoniously 
blended, while here and there the tall spires of hundreds 
of churches are seen pointing heavenward. The view is 
much more extensive than one would suppose, reaching 
from the Green Mountains in Vermont and Monadnock in 
New-Hampshire on the north, to East and West Rocks on 
the Sound in the south, a distance of more than 100 miles. 
On the west, Greylock rears its stately peak, while in the 
east the rounded form of Wachusett meets the eye. The 
view embraces no less than ten mountains in four States, 
and about forty villages. The proprietor of the Prospect 
House, J. W. French, has resided on the mountain nearly 
twenty years, and half of that time both summer and 
winter. Visitors are taken to the summit by steam power, 
an inclined railway having been constructed in 1854, ex- 
tending 600 feet down the mountain to the carriage-road, 
where it is to connect Tvdth a horse railway to the Connecti- 
cut River. A steamboat was built in the spring of 1866, 
by Mr. French, of the Prospect House, and makes trips on 
the Connecticut, carrying passengers to and from the ter- 
minus of the mountain railway. 

The summit is less than 3 miles from Northampton, 



50 LAKES, EIYERS5 AND MOUNTAINS. 

from wliicli place it is easily reached by carriages cr otlier- 
wise. 

Distance from tlie Prospect House to Northampton, 3 
miles ; Springfield, 20 ; Worcester, 76 ; Boston, 120 ; Al- 
bany, 122 ; Hartford, 46 ; NeT^-Haven, 82 ; Xew-York, 158 ; 
Greenfield, 22 ; Brattleboro, 45 ; Bellows Falls, 70 ; White 
River Jmiction, 109. 

Perpendicular elevation of IMoimt Holyoke, 1000 feet. 
Carriage-road from base to feeding-stable, f of a mile. 
Railway from stable to summit, 600 feet. Perpendicular 
ascent from stable, 365 feet. First house built in 18^1. 
Second house built in 1851. Enlarged to present size in 
1861. First railway in 1854. Second railway in 1860. 
Present track laid in 1866. Number of passengers carried 
over its track to 1866, 125,000. Number of acres in Ox- 
Bow Island, 400. Number of acres in Shepherd Island, 
20. Number of acres in Northampton Meadows, 8000. 
Number of acres in Hadley Meadows, 2700. Number of 
trees in West Street, Hadley, 811. Length of West Street, 
Hadley, 1 mile. 

Round Hill, a beautiful eminence overlooking the town, 
with its water-cure buildings, and its grove of native for- 
est-trees. Villi be noticed in the north-west, and about a 
quarter of a mile west of the railway. 

Here George Bancroft, the historian, and J. G. Cogs- 
well, for some years Librarian of the Astor Library, had a 
famous classical school — one of the most noted in this coun- 
try. Dr. H. Halsted now occupies the building for a 
water-cure. Jenny Lind spent several months there just 
after her marriage, previous to returning to Euroj^e. The 
view from the piazza of the water-cure is extensive and 
beautiful, and is nowhere surj)assed. 

The State Limatic Hospital, located 1 mile west of 



AXD MOUNTAIXS. 51 

the \T.llage, is a large and elegant structure. The erection 

of the building was commenced in 1856, and completed in 
1858. 

GEEENEIELD. 

Passing Whately, Hatfield, South-Deerfield, with its 
Sugar-Loaf Mountain, and Old Deerfield, with its Indian 
massacre memories, after 2 hours' ride from Springfield, 
the tomist is in Greenfield, one of the neatest, most taste- 
ful, and most enjoyable towns in all New-England. The 
Mansion House is a capital summer hotel, and there are 
delightful drives all about. Among the latter we would 
mention that to Leyden G-len, the Gforge Eoad, up Green 
River to Still Water, in Deer field, coming back by the Old 
Indian House to Turner's Falls, to Shelburne Falls, and 
Hoosac Tunnel. On Rocky Mountain, about a mile east of 
the town, are two other interesting localities — the Poet's 
Seat, and Bear's Den. From the former there are views of 
the Connecticut and the valley in the east, the locality of 
Turner's Falls, the town of Montague, and the vallev Iving 
to the west. From Bear's Den, a view is had of Deerfield 
and the meadows around that town. 

Visitors to the Hoosac Tunnel leave the cars at Gfreen- 
field and proceed by stage through the village of Shel- 
burne Falls, and thence along the Deerfield River to the 
western end of the tunnel. 

MOI^'ADKOCS MOTTNTAIK. 

Just as the train approaches Yernon Station, the sum- 
mit of Monadnock, 30 miles eastward, in Jafifrey, N. H., 
can be seen through the valley of the Ashuelot. It is 
34.50 feet above the sea, and is the first land seen by sail- 



52 LAIvES, RIYERS, AXD MOUXTAIXS. 

ors entering Boston Harbor from European ports. In clear 
weather, Bunker Hill Monument can be seen with the aid 
of the glass. From the summit, forty lakes and a large 
Qumber of tillages are in full view, and the scenery around 
the mountain is grand and beautiful. A large hotel has 
been erected half-way to the summit, and is under the 
management of George D. Eice. To reach it from the 
Connecticut Valley, the tourist should leaye the train at 
South-Yernon, proceed to Keene by the Ashuelot Eailway, 
and thence to Troy on the Cheshire Railway, from which 
place a stage runs to the hotel, 5 miles distant. Boston 
people can leaye the city by the early morning train, yisit 
the mountain, and return home the same day. 



BRATTLEBOEO. 

Brattleboro is a bewitching country town, distant 194 
miles from New-York, 250 from Montreal, and 125 from 
the White Mountains. It is noted for its water-cure, 
insane hospital, and as a once fayorite resort of Daniel 
Webster. Larkin Gf. Mead, the artist, calls this his home. 
The Wesselhoeft House is a yery j)leasant summer honse. 

Opposite Brattleboro, on the east side of the Connecticut, 
are Wantastiquet and Mine Mountains, the former rising 
from the riyer to the height of 1061 feet. The latter 
extends eastward from Wantastiquet, and is only sepa- 
rated from it by a narrow gorge. During the latter part 
of the last century, a party sunk a shaft many feet into 
tha solid rock on Mine Mountain, in search of silyer, which 
they had incredulously been led to belieye existed there ; 
but after the expenditure of a large sum of money, the 
enterprise was abandoned. 



LAKES, EIYERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 53 

BELLOWS FALLS. 

Opposite Bellows Falls Village, in IN'ew-Hampsliire, is 
Mount Kilbnrn, formerly known as Fall Mountain. It is a 
little over 800 feet liigh, and from tlie summit a fine view 
of the callage and the distant mountain peaks is had. The 
early settlers gave it the name of Fall Mountain from the 
fact that at its base are the Great Falls in the Connecticut. 
In 185G, President Hitchcock and the students of Amherst 
and I^Iiddleburj Colleges met at Bellows Falls, and chris- 
tened it Mount Kllburn, in honor of the hero who fought 
the Indians so gallantly from his little fort, just below the 
south end of the mountain. 

Bellows Falls received its name from Col. Bellows, the 
founder of Walpole, and it was formerly a great fishing 
place with the Indians, who came here to catch shad and 
salmon. 

The first bridge across the Connecticut was built at this 
place in 1785, and was 365 feet in length. For eleven 
years it was the only bridge across this river. 

A canal, nearly half a mile in length, was constructed 
many years ago around the falls on the western side, and 
it was thought that a large manufacturing village would 
at some future day be built here. 

Summer tourists have, of late years, spent considerable 
time here. The drives in the vicinity are very pleasant. 
A favorite one with old residents is to Warner's Pond, in 
Alstead, N. H., where picnics are held. 

The Island House, kept by Mr. Charles Towns, is one of 
the best in the State, and has long been a favorite with 
tourists. It is pleasantly situated on the eminence east of 
the station, and overlooks the river and valley. 



54 LAKES, EIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 

ASCUTNEY MOUNTAIN. 

Tliis mountain, wliicli is seen on the west side of tlae Con- 
necticut, is 3320 feet liigli, and is situated in Windsor and 
Wetliersfield, Yt. It is an isolated peak, and its bold and 
rocky summit forms a prominent feature in tlie landscape 
for many miles around. Three dee}) valleys course their 
way down the western side of the mountain, and from this 
fact it is stated that the Indians called it Ascutney, signi- 
fying " Three Brothers." The view from the summit is 
the most grand and extensive of any in Eastern Vermont. 
Below is the beautiful Connecticut, winding itself among 
the hills and forests, while hundreds of farm-houses and 
villages are scattered seemingly over a vast plain. A road 
has been constructed from Windsor to the summit, a dis- 
tance of 5 miles, and horses and guides can be obtained 
of Mr. Cushing, of the Windsor House, at Windsor. There 
IS a rude house on the mountain, to protect the tourist in 
case of storm. 

WHITE ElVER JUNCTIOIT. 

White Eiver Junction is one of the^^^^most important rail- 
road stations on the line. From this point trains from the 
North, South, East, and West meet. The Vermont Central 
Railway here passes into the valley of White River, and 
pursues a more westerly course, while the Xorthern Xew- 
Hampshire road, forming a junction with it, crosses the 
Connecticut and connects at Concord, N. H., with other 
roads leading into Boston. The Connecticut and Pas- 
sumpsic Rivers Raihvay extends from this place in a 
northerly course, crossing White Eiver at its mouth, just 
north of the station, to Newport, on Lake Memphremagog, 
passing through the rich and fertile valleys of the Con- 
necticut and Passumpsic Rivers. Travelers to the White 



LAKES, EIVERS, AND MOUNTAIlSrS. 55 

Monntains take this railway to Wells Elver, where tliev 
connect witli the railway to Littleton, and thence by stage 
to the various points in the mountains. 

In going either to the White Mountains or Mount Mans- 
field, there is no change of cars at White River Junction. 
If the tourist is going to the White Mountains, he should 
take a seat in the forward car before reaching the Junc- 
tion ; and if to Mount Mansfield, in the rear, or one of the 
Vermont Central cars. 

Trains stop for dinner at White River Junction, and if 
the White Mountain traveler desires rest, the Junction 
House will comfortably accommodate him over night. 

TO MOUNT MANSEIELD AITD MONTEEAL. 

The first place of importance that tourists pass on the 
Vermont Central Railway, on their way to IMansfield or 
Montreal, is Montpelier. It is reached by a short branch 
road from Montpelier Junction ; and although a little out 
of the way, is nevertheless well worthy a ^i^sit. 

Lea^dng Montpelier Junction, the tourist enters the 
beautiful valley of the Winooski. Here is seen Camel's 
Hump, the second highest peak in the State. 

At Waterbury Station, 73 miles from White River Junc- 
tion and 31 miles from Burlington, the tourist leaves the 
railway to visit Mount Mansfield, going 10 miles north by 
stage to Stowe, where there is the largest and most com- 
plete summer hotel in the State. This village is situated 
in quite an extensive valley, surrounded by beautiful hills 
and lofty mountain peaks, and for a quiet summer resort 
it has few equals. The Waterbury Hotel, kept by Mr. N. 
P. Keeler, capable of accommodating 100 guests, was 
recently built, and has no superior for the accommodation 
of tourists. The drives to Bolton Falls, 3 miles west, 



5Q LAKES, EIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 

wliere tliere is a natural bridge over the river, and 8 miles 
to Camel's Hump, as well as the many others, are pleasant 
and charming. 

To visit Mount Mansfield, you will leave the railway at 
VVaterbury and take the stage to St owe, 10 miles north- 
ward. The ' summit of Mansfield is 8 miles from Stowe, 
but this is the headquarters of mountain visitors, as here 
is the spacious Mansfield House, and here horses and car- 
riages are provided for those going to the mountain. 

The princixDal drives are to Mount Mansfield, 8 miles ; 
Smugglers' Notch, 8 miles — one of the most wild and 
romantic places in the country ; Bingham's Falls, o miles ; 
Moss Glen Falls, Si miles ; Gfold Brook, 3 miles ; West 
Hill, 2 miles ; Morrisville Falls, 8 miles ; Johnson Fails, 
12 miles ; Nebraska, '6 miles. 

During the summer the stages from Stowe to Water- 
bury connect with all the principal trains. 

Burlington and Saint Albans are the two places of impor- 
tance on the line of the Vermont Central between Mount 
Mansfield and Montreal. The former of these places is 
more fully described under the heading of Lake Cham- 
plain. 

TO WHITE MOUNTAINS AND LAKE MEMPHREMAGOG. 

Returning to White Eiver Junction, let us continue our 
journey up the Connecticut Valley proper, and to the 
grand old White Hills. 

First in interest we pass Hanover, which is the home of 
Dartmouth College. Oxford is next in interest, owing to 
its popularity as a summer resort. It is one of the most 
delightful places in New-Hampshire. 

Bradford is the second most important town on the route 
from White River Junction to Newport, Vt. 




The Flume, White Mountains. 



LAKES, KIYERS, AND MOimTAINS. 57 

In tlie nortli-west part of the town, in Wriglit's Moun- 
tain, is a cave with several apartments, called De\drs Den. 
It is thought to have once been the abode of human 
beings. 

In this town, in 1812, was manufactured, by James Wil- 
son, the first artificial globe made in the United States. 

Newbury is one of the oldest towns on the upper Con- 
necticut, and few places present greater attractions for a 
quiet summer residence. Here are the celebrated New- 
bury Sulphur Springs, long known to invalids in New- 
England. They are in the valley, east of the depot, where 
a bath-house has been fitted up. An analysis of the water 
has been made, and it is highly recommended by able 
physicians. 

Directly in the rear of Newbury is Mount Pulaski, an 
elevation easy of access, and from it can be seen a wide 
extent of country. The tourist should ascend its smnmit 
and look upon the scenery spread before* him. To the 
right is the valley of Haverhill, T^nth its long street, and 
directly east is Moose Hillock. To the left of it are Sugar 
Loaf and Black Mountains. Further beyond, in the north- 
east, are the Franconia Mountains, and in a pleasant day 
Franconia Notch can be seen, through which tourists pass 
to the White Mountains. The Profile House is only about 
25 miles from Newbury. 

Leaving Newbury and passing the Gfreat Ox-Bow, you 
soon come to the iDleasant village of Wells Elver, in the 
town of Newbury, 40 miles from White Eiver Junction. 
Here ^Yhite Mountain tourists change cars for Littleton, it 
being the junction of the Boston and Montreal and White 
Mountains Eailways. It is 20 miles to Littleton, from 
which travelers go by stage 11 miles to the Profile House, 



58 lak:es, riyees, axd sloxhsttains. 

and 22 to tlie Crawford House. TI18 view at tMs point is 
magnificent. 

NOETH OF THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

A sliort distance above tlie montli of tlie Passunipsic, 
you come to McLeran's. Before tlie railway was built 
from "Wells River to Littleton, this was tlie starting-point 
for stages to tbe White Mountains. The falls in the Pas- 
sumpsic will be noticed on the right. 

After Passumpsic, the tourist next passes Saint Johns- 
bury, a beautiful town, made famous by the Messrs. Fair- 
banks, of scale notoriety. 

Sixteen miles from Saint Johnsbury, you reach West- 
Burke, near which is Burke Mountain, 2000 feet in height. 
At this station passengers leave the railway for Lake Wil- 
loughby, 6 miles distant. Mr. David Trull, proprietor 
of the W^est-Burke Hotel, near the station, will furnish 
the tomist conveyance to that place on the arrival of 
the trains. W^illoughby is one of the most remarkable 
lakes in this country. It lies between two mountains, 
which rise abruptly from its shores to the height of nearly 
2000 feet. The lake is from half a mile to 2 miles wide, 
and is 6 miles long. The water is so deep, in places, 
that no bottom has been found. Mr. Alonzo Bemis has 
erected a large hotel at the south end of the lake, where 
tourists can get good accommodations. It is a wild and 
romantic spot, and to the lover of nature it presents many 
attractions. Mr. Robert Yan Arsdale, of Newark, X. J., 
has built a summer residence at the south end of the lake, 
and spends the summer months here. A good view of 
Willoughby Mountain, rising from the east shore of the 
lake, is had before you reach W^est-Burke Station. 

Barton Landing, a few miles farther north, is the point 



LAKES, EIYEES, AXD MOUNTAINS. 59 

from wliicli stages run to the deliglitful village of Iras- 
burg, 3i miles westward. The Irasburg House, kept by 
Rufus B. Richardson, will accommodate about 100 guests. 

Lea^ung Barton Landing, you soon reach Coventry Sta- 
tion. Continuing northward, you come to a bay connected 
with Lake Mempremagog. Passing along its eastern 
bank, you cross it on a spile-bridge, and in a few minutes 
are landed in front of Memx^hremagog House in Newport, 
upon the shore of the lake. 

Fuller descriptions of Lake Memphremagog and Mount 
Mansfield are given elsewhere. 

This completes the routes of the Connecticut Valley, 
unless, perchance, one desires to go to the source of the 
Connecticut River and catch trout in beautiful Lake Um- 
bagog — a thing which we advise young men to do. There 
are no hotels upon the shores of the lake, but there are 
pleasant farm-houses. 

Speaking of the Connecticut Valley last season, the 
Springfield Repiiblican said : " All through the Connecti- 
cut Valley we find each year increasing numbers of sum- 
mer visitors. The beautifully shaded villages from Hart- 
ford to Lancaster all have more or less city boarders. 
Some, like Brattleboro, Northampton, Deerfield, Walpole, 
Windsor, Charlestown, Haverhill, Hanover, Orford, Lan- 
caster, are noted resorts, and are gay through the summer 
weeks ^vith the people and the fashions of the towns. 
Brattleboro has fewer guests, however, this year than 
usual; Orford, Tvuth many last season, has scarcely any 
now ; but the others have full complements ; and these 
quiet and almost decaying old towns are wakened into 
new vitality by this new branch of industry, to wit, ' board- 
ing.' Their ancient hotels are brushing the cobwebs ofi 
the traditions of their staging days, and the civilization of 



60 LAKES, RIVEES, AND MOUNTAIIS-S. 

New- York and Boston more and more permeates and 
unsettles society in the remotest of country towns. 

" Springfield, though, as inviting as Northampton or 
Brattleboro, entertains but few at this season. We feel 
our city pride, and must go, instead of bidding our friends 
to come. The mountains and the seashore are our favorite 
resorts. These hill-towns to the west of us, like Bland- 
ford and Chester, take a few visitors, and could have hun- 
dreds of our citizens and their families, if they would but 
pro^dde comfortable board for them. The air of their hills 
is in marked contrast, in dryness and coolness, to that of the 
town, and many an invalid person or child is revived by 
even a few days' visit to them. But the people of these 
villages upon the hills seem too unenterxDrising or unintel- 
ligent to meet the demand for accommodations. They 
will soon learn their opportunity and improve it, however. 
The chance is too good a one to be long neglected." 

THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

When to Go. — " It is to be regretted," says Starr King, 
" that the mountains are not visited during the splendid 
days of the early summer. From the middle of June to 
the middle of July, foliage is more fresh ; the cloud-sce- 
nery is nobler ; the meadow-grass has a more golden color ; 
the streams are usually more full and musical ; and there 
is a larger proportion of the ' long light' of the afternoon,. 
which kindles the landsca^DO into the richest loveliness. 
The mass of visitors to the White Mountains go during 
the dog-days, and leave when the finer September weather 
sets in with its prelude touches of the October splendor. 
In August there are fewer clear skies ; there is more fog ; 
the meadows are appareled in more sober green ; the 



LAKES, EIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 61 

highest rocky crests may be wrapped in mists for days in 
succession ; and a traveler has fewer chances of making 
acquaintance with a bracing mountain breeze. The latter 
half of June is the blossom season of beauty in the moun- 
tain districts ; the first half of October is the time of its 
fuU-hued fruitage." 

How TO Go. — For tourists whose time or purse will not 
permit them to journey " across the continent," the White 
Mountains of New-Hampshire are the chief, as they are 
the most fashionable, of all mountain resorts in the 
United States. They cover an area of about 40 miles 
square, in Coos county, Northern New-Hampshire, and, 
under the general title of the " White Hills," two groups 
of mountains are included ; one, the Mount Washington 
chain, or the White Mountains proper ; the other, the 
Franconia range, of which Blount Lafayette, 1000 feet 
lower than Mount Washington, is the highest summit. 
To these two, the highest ranges of the mountains of 
New-Hampshire, there are four avenues of approach : the 
valleys of the Saco, the Merrimack — or rather the Pemi- 
gewasset, its main source — the Androscoggin, and the trib- 
utaries of the Connecticut. Railways connect with every 
one of these natural paths, except the Saco ; and, by each 
line, one may reach some point among the highest hills 
on the evening of the same day that he leaves Boston, or 
in about 17 hours from New- York. 

Briefly, the advantages of these several routes are as 
follows : by the Androscoggin valley to Gorham, (giving 
this as the chief point of arrival,) the quickest access to 
the Mount Washington chain is afforded, (although the 
Saco Valley route reaches the Notch most speedily,) bring- 
ing the tourist to the extreme eastern declivities. By the 
Saco Valley to Weirs, Centre Harbor, or Alton, on Lake 



62 LAKES, ElYEKS, AND MOUXTAIXS. 

Winnipisiogee, (pronounced, but improperly spelled, "\A^in- 
nipesaukee,) tlie tourist comes to tlie western borders of 
the Mount \Yasliino^ton cliain bv tlie deli^litful lake- 
route, tlie most generally cliosen of all the approaches to 
tlie whole region. By the Pemigewasset (or Merrimack) 
Valley to Plymouth, the quickest access to the Franconia 
chain is afforded, coming from the south-east. And lastly, 
by the Connecticut Valley to Littleton, the north-western 
borders of the Franconia chain are reached, with 15 miles 
less staging than by the Pemigewasset Valley ; or the 
White IMountain Kotch may be reached more quickly by 
this way than by either of the other three, with the ad- 
ditional advantage (if so esteemed) that the highest ranges 
are seen first of all. With this general \i.ew of the '' lay 
of the land," we proceed to give the principal routes 
which may enable the tourist, coming from New- York or 
Boston, to enter the mountain region by each of the four 
valleys respectively. And, as most of the routes properly 
begin at Boston, we may first state, summarily, the best 
routes thither from Xew-York City. 

The finest " Sound steamers" are now the Bristol and 
the Providence, leaving Pier 40, North River, every day at 
5 P.:\i. By these, passengers go as far as Bristol, Ct., 
whence proceed by rail to Boston, 5|- a.m. Fare, §5 ; 
supper on board, §1 ; the same prices on all boats. After 
these, there are the Fall River boats, 5 p.m., Pier 28, North 
River, transferring the i^assenger to railway at Newport, 
reaching Boston " in time for morning trains." Also, the 
New-London steamboats, 5 P.M., Pier 39, North River, 
transferring to the New-London and Northern and the 
Worcester Railways, thence to Boston in early morning. 
And, finally, there are two all-rail routes, the Springfield 
and Worcester line, and the Shore line (two ferries this 



LAKES, EIVERS, AXD MOUXTAIXS. 63 

way) by New-London and Providence ; botli start from 
Twenty-seventh street depot at 8 A.M. and 8 p.m., (Sun- 
days, 5 P.M.,) reacMng Boston at 4 p.m. and 6 a.m., 
(Mondays, 3 A.M. ;) elegant compartment-cars (English 
style) on day train, and good sleeping-cars at night, at ex- 
tra charges. Kail way fare, $6. 

ANDROscoaGiN Valley Route. — Starting now anew 
from Boston, the traveler choosing the Androscoggin Val- 
ley route will take the Boston and Maine Railway to Port- 
land, from Haymarket square, passing the famous Phillips 
Academies of Andover, Mass., and Exeter, N. H., on his 
j ourney ; or the Eastern Railway from Causeway street, 
passing through Lynn, Salem, and Xewburyport, Mass., 
and Portsmouth, N. H. — (the > two roads unite at South- 
Berwick, Me.) — or by boat from India w^harf daily, (except 
Sunday,) at 7 P.M. ; or from Commercial wharf Mondays, 
Wednesdays, and Fridays, at 8 a.m., to Portland ; thence, 
by Grand Trunk Railway, to Gorham, where is the Alpine 
House ; stage to Glen House. Time by this route — New- 
York to Boston, say 11 hours ; Boston to Portland, 5 
hours ; Portland to Gorham, 4 or 5 hours ; say 24 hours 
from New- York to Gorham. 

Saco Valley Route. — The favorite lake-trip over Win- 
nipisiogee has the following varieties, all good : From Bos- 
ton, by Boston and Lowell and Concord Railways, or by Bos 
ton and Maine, and Concord, Manchester, and Lawrence 
Railways, to Concord, N. H. ; thence by Boston, Concord, 
and Montreal Railway to Weirs, on the lake ; thence by 
steamer Lady of the Lake, 30 miles, to Centre Harbor or 
Wolfborough ; thence by stage xici North-Conway to Glen 
House. Or from Boston, by Boston and Maine Railway, 
to Dover, N. H. ; thence by Dover and Winnipisiogee 
Railway to Alton, steamer Chocorua to Wolfborough and 



64 



Centre Harbor/ stage to Nortli-Conway. The distance 
from Centre Harbor to the Crawford House, at tlie Xotcli, is 
62 miles ; Conway is 32 miles from that hotel. 

Pemigewasset Valley Route. — By the Boston, Con 
cord, and INIontreal Railway, taking trains which connect 
with that road from the station either of the Boston and 
Maine or the Boston and Lowell Railway, the traveler 
bound for the Franconia Mountains reaches Plymouth, 
N. H., 120 miles from Boston, a little after noon. Having 
dined in Plymouth, he takes the stage for the Profile 
House, in the Franconia Xotch, 30 miles distant, which 
will be reached before sunset. The old Flume House has 
gone to decay. 

CojSTN^ecticut Valley Route. — The same train which 
is left at Plymouth by those who wish to go directly by 
stage to the Profile House, t^t.11 carry passengers some 70 
miles north of Plymouth, to Littleton. This village is on 
the Lower Ammonoosuc River, very near its junction with 
the Connecticut. The cars that leave Boston in the morn- 
ing reach Littleton about 5 in the afternoon. From Lit- 
tleton it is 11 miles to the Profile House in the Franconia 
Notch, and 22 miles to the Crawford House, near the 
White Mountain Notch. 

Other Routes :xot by Boston. — Of course, there is 
an endless variety of routes beside the ones already 
named ; but the tomist will not thank us for multiplying 
liis portable pages beyond necessity. "We may add, to his 
great benefit, three routes only, which seek the White 
Mountains by a shorter eastward journey than those which 
traverse Boston. The first proceeds, by the Boston express 
train from Twenty-seventh street depot, or by boat and 
rail through Norwich, to Worcester, Massachusetts, thence 
direct by the Worcester and Nashua and Concord Railways 



LAKES, RIVERS, AXD MOUNTAINS. 65 

to Concord, whence lie may proceed, as already described, 
to Weirs, Plymoutli, or Littleton, wliicli are distant from 
Concord in tlie order named. The second route starts from 
TwentY-seventh. street also, and proceeds to Springfield, 
Massacliusetts. Here tlie traveler changes to tlie Connec- 
ticut River road, and pursues its connections tlirougb. Brat- 
tleboro, Bellows Falls, White River Junction, and Wells 
River to Littleton. To the tourist who is already familiar 
with the Hudson, but not yet with the quieter Connecti- 
cut, this route, (although it can not include the lower 
river,) following, as it does, the latter stream all the way 
from Hartford nearly to its fountains, can not be equaled 
for attractiveness ; and the whole day which it consumes 
beyond the time of the routes already named will by no 
means be wasted in its enjo}mient. The third route, also 
occupying two days, is the finest possible of all the list, 
including the Hudson River trip (see article Along the 
Hudson for routes to Troy) and that on the Connecticut 
River, just given, beyond Bellows Falls, beside the beauti- 
ful mountainous region of Western Vermont. The traveler 
will reach Troy by rail or boat from Xew-York, and go 
thence to Rutland through Eagle Bridge, (it is useless to 
undertake to say by what road, until the interminable 
railway quarrels in Western Vermont may be somewhat 
quieted,) remaining over night ; leave in the morning by 
Rutland and Burlington Railway for Bellows Falls, and 
thereafter pursue the course of the route just given. This 
completes the long list of routes which may be confident- 
ly recommended. 

Where to Stay. — Arriving .at Gorham, the traveler 
may make either the Alpine or the Glen House I1I3 point 
of departure for the Mount Washington chain. The 



66 LAKES, RIYERS, AXD MOUNTAINS. 

Crawford House is situated upon tlie otlier (the west) side 
of Mount AYasliington. 

Tlie Alpine House is situated in tlie valley at the junc- 
tion of the Androscoggin and Peabody Rivers. The valley 
is 800 feet above the sea, and its breadth is so great that 
the air is more dry, pure, and bracing than in the more 
narrow passes directly under the lofty summits. The pro- 
prietor is Mr. J. R. Hitchcock. The house may be reached 
either by Grand Trunk Railway to Gorham or by stage from 
Centre Harbor via Xorth-Conway and the Glen, or from 
Littleton via Bethlehem, Crawford House, White Motm- 
tain Xot<:h, and Glen House ; or by way of Lancaster ai^d 
Jefferson, (Waumbeck House.) There is a post-office and a 
telegraph station near by. Post-office address, Gorham, 
X. H. The house is open all the year. Terms, §4 per 
day. From this ^Doint there is a fine road all the way — 16 
miles — to the Tip-Top House on the summit of Mount 
Washington. The distance to the base, at Glen House, is 
8 miles. Trains arrive at Gorham from Portland at 11 
a.:m. and 6 p.m. ; leave at 12 midnight and 9 a.:m. for Port- 
land. 

The Glen House, 8 miles by stage south from Gorham, 
stands on a plateau, 830 feet above the Gorham valley, and 
1632 feet above tide- water at Portland, in the midst of a 
magnificent mountain bowl. Xo public house among the 
mountains is situated so near the Moitnt Washington range 
as this, four of the highest summits being in full view, di- 
rectly in front of the hotel. (The height of Moimt Wash- 
ington is 6285 feet ; Mount Clay, 54-00 ; 2>Ioiint Adams, 
5800 ; Mount Madison, 5361 ; Mount Jefferson, 5700.) Mr. 
J. M. Thompson is proprietor of the Glen House, and can 
make room for 500 guests from Jim.e 1st till October 16th. 
There is a telegraph and a post-station in the house. Ad- 



LAKES, EIVERS, AXD M0XJXTAIN3. 6? 

dress, Glen House, N. H. Price of board, §4 per day. 
Stages leave for the Crawford House and Nortli-Conway 
at 8 A.M. ; for Gcrliam in time to connect with, trains. The 
Xotcli is on the Crawford road, near that hotel. The as- 
cent of Mount Washington is now most commonly made 
from the Glen House and the Alpine House, by the famous 
carriage-road commenced in 1855 and fully com]3leted in 
1861. The average grade is 12 feet in 100, and the steep- 
est grade in any part, which, strange to say, is about 2^ 
miles from the base, is 16 feet in 100 for a short distance. 
The bridle-path formerly went up the mountain side in 
nearly a straight line, while the road winds around the 
ledge and up the mountain-side, making nearly double the 
distance. Most travelers deem the ascent more objection- 
able than the descent. But in no part is there any difficulty 
or danger in the ascent, no more discomfort being experi- 
enced than in the same amount of carriage-riding upon 
any of the mountain roads. 

The tariff of tolls on the carriage-road is as follows : 

Fov every person on foot $0.32 

" " " on horseback, 80 

" " " in carriages, 80 

" " sulky with one horse, 64 

" " carriage with 4 wheels for 2 persons, 64 

" " " with 2 horses and 4 wheels, 93 

" " " with 4 horses, 1.28 

For every carriage of pleasure or otherTvise, the like 
sums, according to the number of wheels and horses draw- 
ing the same. Each person pays the toll for himself in 
addition to the price for his seat in the carriage, and the 
proprietor pays the carriage-toll. 

The Crawford House, 100 rods from the White Moun- 
tain Notch, and in the midst of a little plateau about 2000 



68 LAKES, EIYERS, A:srD MOUNTAINS, 

feet above the sea, is kept "bj Messrs. Doyle and Hart,sliorn, 
proprietors. Post and telegraph offices in the house. Board, 
$4.50 per day ; accommodations for 250 guests. The hotel 
is lighted with gas throughout, and all the sleeping-rooms 
are on the first and second floors. The office is situated in 
the central part of the house, and generally presents as 
busy a scene as the great square in a city. Hither every 
one comes to talk over his plans, and to make arrange- 
ments for various excursions, or for continuing his journey 
to other points of interest. One should be careful, as soon 
as he arrives, to book his name at this place for a horse to 
Mount Washington, if he intends to make the ascent within 
a few days, as often all the ponies are engaged for a day or 
two beforehand. The price of a horse to the summit and 
back, with guides for the party, is $4 ; the bridle-path is 9 
miles in ascent to the Tip-Top House. The steam railway 
up the mountain is to be completed by the opening of this 
(1868) season, and its base, 7 miles from the hotel, may be 
reached over a good road. The nearness of the summit of 
Mount Willard is one of the attractions at the Crawford ; 
distance only 2 miles, over a good bridle-path. Stages 
arrive at the House from Littleton at 5 and 10 p.:m. ; from 
the Profile House at 2 p.m. ; from the Glen House at 
5 P.M. ; from North-Conway at 1 p.m. Stages leave 
house for Littleton at 4 and 10 a.m. ; for the Profile House, 
at 8 A.M. ; for the Glen House, at 8 a.m. ; and for Conway, 
at 8 A.M. 

The Tip-Top House, including the building formerly 
known as the Summit House, on the summit of Mount 
Washington, more than 6000 feet above the sea, is a mar- 
vel of comfort to the weary traveler who has for hours 
been longing for its rest and convenience. Mr. J. R. 
Hitchcock, landlord of the Alpine House, is landlord here 



LAKES, EIYEES, AND MOUNTAIXS. 69 

also, and tlie lionse is imder the immediate cliarge of Mr. 
A. H. Palmer. Wlien Tre tliink wliat a labor it lias been 
to carry all provisions to such, an elevation, and that even 
fuel must be taken up from the forests far below, we can 
not fail to admire the forethought and energy that have 
kept the Summit House so well. Good coffee and tea. 
with milk, fresh eggs, new and well-made bread, generally 
fresh meats, as well as excellent ham, and often trout, are 
found on the plentifully provided table. Those who as- 
cended Mount Washington before there was any shelter 
on the peak from gale or shower, or driving scud, or snow 
squall, that often awaited and overtook them, vdll know 
how those are favored now who find good protection, fire. 
and a hot dinner ready on the top. Sheets of paper and 
envelopes, each with an engraving of the Mountain House 
and Summit, are on sale there. Letters written there to 
friends are mailed to all j^arts of the country by the pro- 
prietors of the hotel. They drop the summer out of their 
calendar, and make their home for days above human 
fellowship, amid lightning and thunder, blinding fogs and 
sweeping sleet, to offer such service to travelers. 

The Profile House, a new and large hotel, accommodat- 
ing 500 guests, open from Jime 1st to October 16th, is 
situated in the immediate vicinity of Echo Lake, (half a 
mile.) Cannon or Profile Mountain, and The Profile, (half 
a mile,) the Flume and Pool, (6 miles.) and Moimt La- 
fayette, (o miles over bridle-path to summit.) It is on a 
level plain, a few acres in area, in the bosom of the hills, 
and has two approaches : on the north, from Bethlehem 
and Littleton ; on the south, from the Flume House and 
Pemigewasset Valley. Terms, $4.50 per day ; telegraph 
and post-stations in the house. Stages arrive at the house 
from Littleton at 2 and 7^ p.m. : from Plymouth, at 7 p.m. 



70 LAKES, RIVERS, A^D MOUNTAINS. 

and from tlie Crawford House, at 2 p.m. Stages leave the 
liouse for Littleton, 7 a.m. and 3 p.m. ; for Plymonth, ? 
A.M., (and oftener if desired ;) and tlie Crawford, at 8 A.M. 

The most attractive advertisement of the Franconia 
Notch to the traveling public is the rumor of the Great 
Stone Face, that hangs upon one of its highest cliffs. If its 
inclosing walls were less grand, and its water gems less 
lovely, travelers would be still, perhaps, as strongly attract- 
ed to the spot, that they might see a mountain which 
breaks into human expression —a piece of sculpture older 
than the Sphinx— an imitation of the human countenance, 
which is the crown of all beauty, that was pushed out 
from the coarse strata of New-England thousands of years 
before Adam. The marvel of this countenance, outlined 
so distinctly against the sky at an elevation of nearly 
1500 feet above the road, is greatly increased by the 
fact that it is composed of three masses of rock which 
are not in perpendicular line with each other. On the 
brow of the mountain itself, standing on the visor of the 
helmet that covers the face, or directly imderneath it on 
the shore of the little lake, there is no intimation of any 
human features in the lawless rocks. Remove but a few 
rods either way from the guide-board on the road, where 
you are advised to look up, and the charm is dissolved. 
But the whole mountain from which the Profile starts is 
one of the noblest specimens of majestic rock that can be 
seen in New-Hampshire. One may tire of the craggy 
countenance sooner than of the sublime front and vigor- 
ous slopes of Moimt Cannon itself — especially as it is seen, 
with its great patches of tawny color, in driving up from 
the lower part of the Notch to the Profile House. 

Other hotels which are not actually at the Mountains, 
but prove to be necessary to the traveler, are as follows, (a 



LAKES, EIYERS, AND MOUNTAINS. ^1 

list wMcb. does not, of course, include all in tlie region, 
but may be relied on as accurate and entirely adapted for 
tMs summer, as far as it goes.) 

Tlie Betlileliem House, at Betlileliem, on tlie stage-road 
between Littleton (5 miles distant) and tlie Crawford — pass- 
ing the old Fabian — House, (17 miles further,) is kej^t by 
Mr. E. R. Abbott, at $3.50 per day for transient and $8 to 
$15 per week for permanent boarders. It is reached only 
by stages, arriving from Littleton at 1 and 6 p.m. ; from 
the Profile House, at 10 a.m. ; and from the Crawford, at 11 
A.M. Stages leave Bethlehem for Littleton at 7 A.M. and 
2 P.M ; for the Profile, at 10^- A.M. ; and for the Crawford, at 
11 1- A.M. Accommodations for 200 guests the year round ; 
post and telegraph stations convenient. 

The old Fabian House is being rebuilt. 

The Lancaster House, 16 miles north by carriage-road 
from Bethlehem, is also open the year round. Proprietor, 
Mr. E. Stanton ; accommodations for 250 guests ; board, 
$3.50 per day, or $9 to $15 per week. Bethlehem is a postal 
station, and there is also telegraphic communication with 
all points. The Grand Trunk station, connected by stage 
with Lancaster, is Northumberland, 10 miles to the north- 
east. Stages arrive at Lancaster from trains from Port 
land at 1 and 9 P.M. ; from Montreal, at 10 A.M. Stages 
from Littleton, 20 miles, where the White Mountain Rail- 
way terminates on the north, arrive at 9 p.m. at Lancaster. 
Stages leave Lancaster for Portland (^vico Northumberland) 
at 6 and 10 p.m. ; for Montreal, at 6 p.m. ; for Littleton and 
White Mountains Railway to Wells River Junction, at 5 
A.M. The location of this house is an excellent one for 
summer boarding. Good board may also be obtained at 
private houses in the village for $7 per week, 

Sumner's Hotel is located at the post-town of Daiton, 



72 LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 

N. H., on tlie stage road from Lancaster and Nortliiunber- 
land to Littleton, 12 miles from the latter, and 8 from Lan- 
caster. There is no telegraph here. The house is open all 
the year, under care of Professor J. B. Sumner, and the 
terms are $3 per day, and $8 to $15 per week. Stages 
arrive from Littleton at 8 p.m., Tuesdays, Thursdays, and 
Saturdays, and leave for Littleton on the same days at 6 a.m. 

The Waumbeck House, B. H. Plaisted, proprietor, is at 
the postal station (no telegraph) of Jefferson, N. PL, 8 
miles from Lancaster and 20 from the Crawford House. 
Rooms for 200 guests ; board, $3.50 per day, $8 to $14 per 
week. The hotel is on the favorite Cherry Mountain road 
from Gorham, (the A]pine,) 33 miles to the White Moun- 
tain Notch — a detour of nearly 20 miles from the most 
direct road, but one almost always taken, for the scenery 
along almost the whole line of the road is grander than 
that over any other stage route among the mountains. 

When Starr King wrote his White Hills, in 1859, he 
lamented the want of a hotel where the Waumbeck now 
is, remarking : " There is as much beauty to be enjoyed 
on other routes ; but for grandeur, and for opportunities 
of studying the wildness and majesty of the sovereign 
range, the Cherry Mountain route is without a rival in 
New-Hampshire." The Waumbeck House is also a favo- 
rite place of resort for those who are desirous of obtain- 
ing pure mountain air. Starr King Mountain, in the rear 
of the house, is easily ascended. From the piazza of the 
hotel, with a glass, people on the summit of Mount Wash- 
ington can be distinctly seen. The distance from the 
hotel to the White Mountain Notch is 17 miles ; to the 
Profile House, by the way of Whitefield and Bethlehem, 
28 miles ; to the Gflen House by the road around the base 
of Madison, 20 miles ; to Littleton, 20 miles. 



LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 
THE ASCENT OF MOUI^T WASHINGTON. 



There are tliree patlis for the stscent of Mount Wash- 
ington — one from the Crawford House at the Notch, one 
from the White Mountain House, 5 miles beyond tlie 
Notch, and one from the Glen. The path from the White 
Mountain House requires the shortest horseback ride. 
Parties are carried by wagons up the side of Mount Wash- 
ington to a point less than 3 miles from the summit. 
The bridle-path, however, is quite steep, and no time is 
gained by this ascent. The rival routes are those from 
the Notch and the Glen. Each of these has some decided 
advantages over the other. The Glen route is the short- 
est. For the first 4 miles the horses keep the wide and 
hard track, with a regular ascent of 1 foot in 8, which was 
laid out for a carriage-road to the summit, but never com- 
pleted. This is a great gain over the corduroy and mud 
through the forests of Mount Clinton, which belong to 
the ascent from the Notch. 

When ^Ye rise up into the region where the real moun- 
tain scenery o^Dens, the views from the two paths are 
entirely different in character, and it is difficult to decide 
which is grander. From the Notch, as soon as we ride 
out of the forest, we are on a mountain top. We have 
scaled Mount Clinton, which is 4200 feet high. Then the 
path follows the line of the White Mountain ridge. We 
descend a little, and soon mount the beautiful dome of 
Mount Pleasant, which is 500 feet higher. Descending 
this to the narrow line of the ridge again, we come to 
Mount Franklin, a little more than 100 feet higher tlian 
Pleasant, less marked in the landscape, but very difficult 
to climb. Beyond this, 500 feet higher still, are the dou- 



74 LAKES, EIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS 



ble peaks of Mount Monroe ; and tlien winding down to 
the Lake of the Clouds, from whence the Ammonoosuc 
issues, we stand before the cone of Mount Washington, 
which springs more than 1000 feet above us. The views 
of the ravines all along this route, as we pass over the 
sharpest portions of the ridge, and see them sweeping off 
each way from the path, are very exciting. And there is 
the great advantage in this approach to be noted that, if 
Mount Washington is clouded, and the other summits are 
clear, travelers do not lose the sensation and the effects 
produced by standing for the first time on a mountain 
peak. 

By the Glen route we cross no subordinate peaks, and 
do not follow a ridge line from which we see summits 
towering here and there, but steadily ascend Mount Wash- 
ington itself. In this way a more adequate conception is 
gained of its immense mass and majestic architecture. 
After we pass above the line of the carriage-road to the 
barren portion of the mountain, there are grand pictures 
at the south and east of the Androscoggin Valley, and 
the long, heavily- wooded Carter range. Indeed, nothing 
which the day can show will give more astonishment 
than the spectacle which opens after passing through the 
spectral forest, made u]3 of acres of trees, leafless, peeled, 
and bleached, and riding out upon the ledge. Those who 
make thus their first acquaintance with a mountain height 
vvall feel, in looking down into the immense hollow in 
which the Glen House is a dot, and off upon the vast 
green breastwork of Mount Carter, that language must 
be stretched and intensified to answer for the new sensa- 
tions awakened. We shall never forget the iDhrase which 
a friend once used — an artist in expression as in feeling, 
and not given under strong stimulant to superlatives — as 




Berlin Falls, White Mountains. 



LAKES, EIYERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 75 

lie looked, for the first time, from tlie ledge ii23on the 
square miles of undulating wilderness : " See the tumultu- 
ous bombast of the landscape V Yet the glory of the 
view is, after all, the four highest companion mountains 
of the range, Clay, Jefferson, Adams, Madison, that show 
themselves in a bending line beyond the tremendous 
gorge at the right of the path, absurdly called the " Gfulf 
of Mexico," and are visible from their roots to their sum- 
mits. These mountains are not seen on the ascent from 
the Notch, being hidden by the dome of JNIount Washing- 
ton itself. On the Glen path these grand forms tower so 
near iis that it seems at first as thouo^h a strons; arm 
might throw a stone across the Gulf and hit them. There 
should be a resting-place near the edge of the ravine, 
where parties could dismount and study these forms at 
leisure. Except by climbing to the ridge through the 
unbroken wilderness of the northern side, there is no 
such view to be had east of the Mississippi of mountain 
architecture and sublimity. 

The first effect of standing on the summit of Mount 
Washington is a bewildering of the senses at the extent 
and lawlessness of the spectacle. It is as though we 
were looking upon a chaos. The land is tossed into a 
tempest. But in a few moments we become accustomed 
to this and begin to feel the joy of turning round and 
sweeping a horizon-line that in parts is drawn outside of 
New-England. Then we can begin to inquire into the 
particulars of the stupendous diorama. Northward, if the 
air is not thick with haze, we look beyond the Canada 
line. Southward, the " parded land " stretches across the 
borders of Massachusetts, before it melts into the horizon. 
Do you see a dim blue pyramid on the far north-east, look- 
ing scarcely more substantial than gossamer, but keeping 



76 LAKES, RIYEES, AND MOUNTAINS. 

its place stubbornly, and cutting the yellowish, horizon 
with the hue of Damascus steel ? It is Katahdin looming 
out of the central wilderness of Maine. Almost in the 
same line on the south-west, and nearly as far away, do 
you see another filmy angle in the base of the sky ? It is 
Monadnoc, which would feel prouder than Mont Blanc, or 
the frost-sheeted Chimborazo, or the topmost spire of the 
Himalaya, if it could know that the genius of Mr. Emer- 
son has made it the noblest mountain in literature. The 
nearer range of the Green Mountains are plainly visible ; 
and behind them Camel's Hump and Mansfield tower in 
the direction of Lake Champlain. The silvery patch on 
the north, that looks at first like a small pond, is Umba- 
gog ; a little farther away due south, a section of the mir- 
ror of Winnipiseogee glistens. Sebago flashes on the 
south-east, and a little nearer, the twin Lovell Lakes, that 
lie more prominently on the map of our history than on 
the landscape. Next, the monotony of the scene is broken 
by observing the various forms of the mountains that are 
thick as " meadow mole-hills " — the great wedge of La- 
fayette, the long, thin ridge of Carter, the broad-based 
and solid Pleasant Mountain, the serrated summit of Cho- 
corua, the beautiful cone of Kearsarge, the cream-colored 
Stratford peaks, as near alike in size and shape as two 
Dromios. Then the pathways of the rivers interest us. 
The line of the Connecticut we can follow from its birth 
near Canada to the point where it is hidden by the great 
Franconia wall. Its water is not visible ; but often in the 
morning a line of fog lies for mil es over the lower land, 
counterfeiting the serpentine path of its blue water that 
bounds two States. Two large curves of the Androscog- 
gin we can see. Broken portions of the Saco lie like 
lumps of light upon the open valley to the west of Kear- 



LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 77 

sarge. The sources of tlie Merrimack are on the farther 
slope of a mountain that seems to be not more than the 
distance of a rifle-shot. Directly under our feet lies the 
cold Lake of the Clouds, whose water pluno;es down the 
wild jDatli of the Ammonoosuc, and falls more than a mile 
before the ocean drinks it at New-Haven. And in the 
sides of the mountain, every wrinkle east or west that is 
searched by the sunbeams or cooled by shadows, is the 
channel of a bounty that swells one of the three great 
streams of New-England. And lastly, we notice the vari- 
ous beauty of the valleys that slope off from the central 
range. No two of them are articulated with the moun- 
tain by the same angles and curves. Stairways of charm- 
ing slope and bend lead down into their sweet and many- 
colored loveliness and bounty. 

The most unfavorable time for visiting the summit is 
in the noon of a summer day when the air is hazy. There 
are no shadows then, no wonders of color, no vague reaches 
of distance. And yet, because the air is genial and the 
cone is not vailed by mist, such a day is generally ac- 
counted propitious by travelers. It is better to encounter 
fogs, or sudden showers, especially if one has never enjoyed 
before an unobstructed prospect from the peak, than to 
see the landscape spiritless under a solitary noon. Cloud- 
effects are the most surprising and fascinating pageants 
which the ascent of the mountain can disclose. 

THE DELAWARE WATER GAP. 
Brodhead's Kittatinny House is headquarters for the 
Delaware Water Gap, being beautifully situated on the side 
of the Kittatinny Mountain, and commanding a view of 
the mouth of the Gap on one side, and the outline of the 
Blue Ridge, with the fertile and beautiful valley of the 



78 LAKES, EIYERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 

Delaware, on tlie otlier. Tlie season here is always a gaj 
one, and the hotel is ever filled to overflowing. 

Winging away from Xew-York by the Central Railway 
>f New-Jersey, lea^dng the city at 9 A.3I., connecting with 
ihe Delaware, Lackawanna, and Western E ail way at the 
Junction — or by the Delaware and Belvidere road from 
Philadelphia, the tourist finds himself, after a ride (through 
wild and startling scenery) at a fearful rate of speed around 
the base of the mountains, safely landed, and, at scarcely 1^ 
o'clock, at the little station at the foot of Kittatinny Moun- 
tain. Stages are ready at the depot to convey guests to 
the Kittatinny House, and a few moments' ride over the 
steep, winding road, and one is standing on the piazza, 
greeting friends, or rushing madly toward the office to 
secure a room or a place to hang u]}. 

If you fail of accommodation at the Kittatinny, tempo- 
rary sleeping accommodations may be obtained at the 
little Senape House, opposite the depot — a house, by the 
way, which can barely be styled a trap to catch travelers, 
where the landlord ''doesn't take lodgers for Brodhead 
when the Bj.ttatinny is full" — and whose husk mat- 
tresses and straw pillows would be fully indorsed by any 
prison superintendent or almshouse commissioner. 

The company at the Kittatinny is quiet but select ; and 
while there is no lack of amusement — hops on Saturdays 
and excursions every day — with an occasional " fair for the 
church," in one of which, on a Wednesday and Thursday 
of last summer, they realized over $1100 for the benefit 
of the Presbyterian chapel, there seems an air of comfort 
and sociability seldom or never met with among hotel peo- 
ple, except at the Water Gap, or at some such secluded and 
semi-occasional retreat. 

Folks here take it quietly and respectably. There is 



LAKES, EIYEES, AXD MOUNTAINS. 19 

plenty to see, and one can either take plenty of time to see 
it in, or lie can run tlie wliole gauntlet of tlie siglits in the 
immediate ^iicinity bet^veen Saturday morning and Mon- 
day noon, and yet carry away a comi^lete and satisfactory 
idea of the Delaware Water Gap and its surroundings. 

" Squire Jones," with his pretty skiff, the Minnehaha, is 
always ready to show ^Yater Gap and the river, where, be 
the climbing fever at its height, one can go with the guide 
up the rugged and dangerous pathway full 1600 feet, and, 
standing on the ledge, out of reach of the chilling current 
of air from the valley below, obtain a view of mountain 
scenery suificient to last him a lifetime. Or, take a rest- 
ing-place some 300 feet from the base of the Jersey Moun- 
tain, mth 80 feet depth of green water flowing at its base, 
the twin giant of the Pennsylvania Mountain, shaped like 
a huge elephant, rising on the opposite side of the gap, 
\\dth the brown, forbidding ledges standing out upon its 
rugged sides, and the serpentine train of coal-cars winding 
slowly around the base, the train so long that the engine 
is lost from view on one side of the curve before the red 
flag signal car at the end of the train is fairly in view from 
the other end of the curving roadway. 

The places of interest to be seen about the Water Gap 
and hidden away among the mountain paths, are, many of 
them, connected vith the earlier history of the region; 
and the number of Indian legends told with the history 
of the spear-heads and antique stones in the hotel office, 
and of ancient date, are many of them, doubtless, of rather 
more than ancient veracity. Still they are legends ; and 
the places of Indian history are to be seen and to be ad 
mired ; and a more distinct and comprehensive idea can 
be had by walking through the mountain paths and over 
the ledges of rocks, with the aid of Mr. Brodhead's photo- 



80 LAKES, EIYERS, AND MOUISTAINS. 

grapliically illustrated Guide-Book, than by an infinite 
number of carriage drives and equestrian excursions. 

The one great drawback to the success of the Delaware 
Water Gap as a popular resort lies in the non-accommo- 
dating spirit of the railway company. But one train a day 
each way, and no other means of communication with the 
world at large, and the great cities in particular, with no 
news at all on Sunday, nullify many of the advantages 
of such a place and view ; though we are informed that 
Mr. Brodhead intends an arrangement for a special car 
from New- York, and to try all force of " moral suasion " 
upon the controlling spirits of the Lackawanna Railway. 
Among the guests at the hotel are usually many Xew- 
York people, who take the summer in a quiet way. 

Having done the Water Gap, or, at least, all of it that 
can be done in a day or two, the coal mines '^f the Schuyl- 
kill region shall be next reported, and, till then, with the 
splendid valley of the Delavrare losing itself in the dis- 
tance as we are approaching the Lehigh, and the grim old 
mountains "v\i.th their ledges of blue and brown stone fast 
merging themselves into the blue lines of the distance, 
we take leave of the Yv^ater Gap, the ladies, the Kittatinny, 
and the falls, and wing away toward the more rugged 
scenery about the head-waters of the Schuylkill. 

DOWN m THE MIl^ES. 

Out and away from the Delaware Water Gap, and the 
bright eyes and merry faces of the Kittatinny House, we 
leave the sullen-looking twin mountains behind, and speed 
over the Lackawanna road toward Behidere and Easton. 
Following the winding course of the Lehigh, over a smooth 
road, and through a varied and beautifully undulating 



LAKES, EIVEES, AND MOUNTAINS. 81 

country, making connections at Allentown, vre again nes- 
tle down among tlie momitains at a hotel wliicli is merely 
a fair sample of tlie accommodations for wliicli tlie ScIiitvI- 
kill region seems to be remarkable, and of wliicli tlie least 
said the better. 

Over one of tlie dirtiest, dustiest — and prettiest — roads 
in tlie country, after a ride from Reading, through tunnels 
and around curves, at a rate of speed which, while it evin- 
ces confidence in a well-graded and well-ballasted raihvay, 
is nevertheless startling to the quiet-going traveler — we 
find ourselves suddenly brought to a stand-still at a depot 
built against the side of the hill, at Pottsville, the western 
terminus of the Philadelphia and Reading Railway. The 
town is a busy one, built upon and between the mountains, 
with its streets running at right angles. The smoke from 
the furnaces and rolling-mills rising up from among the 
hills — where every body talks coal or iron, with an occa- 
sional digression on church music — and where every one 
anxiously inquires the state of the market on coal, arguing 
the difierence in prices and quality between red and white 
ash, " lump," " broken," " Qgg,'' " stove," and " chestnut" 
— brings to us at once a vivid consciousness that we are in 
the Coal Region of Pennsylvania. 

The change of scenery from the notches of the Water 
GajD to the line of the Reading road and the Schuylkill is 
very striking ; the one, wild, rugged and brown — the 
other, softly beautiful and green, from base to summit. 
Dotted about upon the mountain-sides, and breaking in 
upon the scenery, are the distant views of coal operations, 
with the heavy-timbered breakers looking down upon the 
roads below, and the smoke and steam from the engines 
and pump moving slowly upward in white and distinct 
lines. 



82 LAKES. EI VERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 

Shut in amon^tlie hills, and with a high-toned and ra- 
ther conservative society, Pottsville is the moneyed centre 
of the region, where the operators generally come to make 
their deposits, and, in the times of low prices and high 
wages, to get their paper '' done " at varied rates of dis- 
count ; and the field for the operation of brains and the 
use of capital, as shown by the success of the boldest opera- 
tors, is one where x^erseverance is well rewarded and 
success made certain by energy. 

A walk of a mile or more along the canal brings us to 
Port Carbon Landing — ^the grand shipping-point, where 
the boats are loaded for Xew-York and Philadelphia mar- 
kets. Here the scene is a busy one, though a pair of white 
duck pants and a Panama hat are rather out of order by 
way of costume. At the further end of the basin, and at a 
convenient intersection of the hundred tracks or more for 
the laden and empty coal-cars, stands the office of Mr. John 
Medlar, the shipping agent, where reports are made, orders 
given, questions answered, the bills of lading made out, 
signed, and dispatched. On either side, deep down in the 
basin, lie the boats, loaded or awaiting a turn, while others 
are receiving their cargoes from the screens and shutes 
erected next to the little sentry-box offices of the various 
overseers who control the loading as the cars are brought 
down, where the dirty-looking boys who are hired by the 
miners to pick out slate (and who habitually take pains 
not to do so) get their directions where and how to go to 
work. Adjacent to the office are the resting-place stables 
for the mules, the weighing lock, and the dispatcher's 
office, whence the boats are sent forward to '•' order," or a 
market. 

Back to Pottsville by the dusty road, and stopping in at 
the Reading Railway machine-shops at Palo Alto, we take a 



LAKES, EIYE^^S, AXD MOUNTAINS 83 

look at the rolling mill, where the ni3n at work before the 
heated furnaces, naked about the waist and with dampened 
cloths bound above their foreheads, look like so many 
devils hard at work amid the crashing reports and flying 
sparks and flakes, as the iron is being crushed into shape 
between the rollers, or cut by the huge circular saw. Wf 
shall study the hotel fare with no dint of satisfaction, and 
prepare for an early start for the mines in the morning. 

Under the care of a driver who is sufficiently antiquated 
in garb and years to be '' up " in the windings of a dan 
gerous and stony mountain roadway, in the drizzling rain 
and fog, we leave the hotel soon after sunrise, for a visit tc 
the Girardville Colliery, and a look at Ashland and the 
surroundings. Leaving Pottsville by the main street, we 
are soon rumbling along the uneven road, and almost as 
soon as we ascend the hill are in sight of the coal opera- 
tions about the village of Saint Clair. Surrounded on all 
sides by great hills of refuse coal, as we descend into the 
valley again, the view before us is grand in the extreme. 
Meeting at the base, and with the cheery green of the 
hills along the railway, variegated by the lines of brown 
and black stunted shrubbery and out-croppings of coal, the 
magnitude of the immense interests at work, and the 
amount of capital invested and labor required, is appa- 
rent on all sides. Seven or eight operations — most of 
them idle, however, with only the pump working to keep 
the water from gaining — may be seen at one time, and the 
increasing size and number of the mountains of useless 
coal and dust, some of them with railways built out upon 
them, and trains of small cars drawn by mules, give a 
novel and pleasing eflect, and some idea of the great means 
of wealth of the Schuylkill region. 

Not to delay long here, we keep on over a stony and 



84 LAKES, EIYERS, AND MOUNT AIXS. 

tiresome road with, great fissures on tlie sides, and linn 
dreds of feet of steep precipice in convenient proximity for 
tumbling down it. Passing one or two abandoned or 
" worked-ont " collieries, where the driver will point out 
the spot where a house and its contents were swallowed up 
by the caving-in of a mine, the inmates of the building 
barely escaping with their lives, we reach the foot of the 
plane, and are fairly in the centre of the coal region. 

As far as the eye can reach, the black outline and glis- 
tening rails of the Mahanoy and Broad Mountain Railway 
mark the course of the operations and the valley, and 
the rapid descent of a train of laden cars rushing down the 
plane, with the workmen riding up in the empty cars on 
the other track, with the rumble of the coal x^assing 
through the breaker built upon the side of the mountain, 
make the scene one of peculiar wildness ; while, prettiest 
of all, just at the foot of the road, the white and lilac tinted 
outlines of two pretty houses, built on terraces, and sur- 
rounded by flower-beds and overlooking the brook and 
trout-pond, point out to us the beautifal though almost 
secluded mountain-home of Mr. Beyers, of the Reading 
Railway. 

A ride of an hour, tedious and toilsome, over a rough 
road, except in crossing the Broad Mountain, brings us 
to the little half-village of Girardville, a quiet town to the 
right, where a remarkably smooth and prettily shaded path 
leads up to the Girardville Manor House, occupied by Mr- 
Charles Conner, superintendent at the mine. A correspon- 
dent of the Neic- York Gazette, visiting the mines last sum- 
mer, thus describes his experience, xmder Mr. Conner's 
obliging guardianship : 

" Ha^dng done the Manor House and garden with a drink 
of cold spring water, we accepted his offer of the loan of 



o 

I 




LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 85 

oil-clotli coats and liats, received most gratefully Ms sug- 
gestion of 'thick boots being just tlie tiling/ and went 
up into tlie dirty, ugly-looking breaker, seeing the whole 
thing from the platform where the cars are unloaded of 
their large blocks of coal, down the steps leading to the 
screen for making the various sizes, creeping under the 
wooden pipes arranged for washing the chestnut and pea 
coal, and then down upon the railway beneath, whence 
the cars are loaded for the ' landing/ 

" Committed to care of Billy, the ' Inside Boss/ whom we 
found to be a pleasant, chatty old fellow, with flaxen hair, 
and a bright, twinkling eye, and decidedly foreign accent, 
we stopped at the entrance of the mine. Agreeably to 
Billy's suggestion to get fresh oil in our lamps, as the con- 
sequence of groping around in the dark?iess of a coal mine, 
with an extinguished lamp, might not be pleasant, we fol- 
lowed him into the ox^ening before us, boldly enough at 
the outset, but rather more slowly and cautiously after a 
moment's walk, as the faint glimmer of daylight from the 
opening was soon lost in the solemn and awful blackness 
of the path before us. The sensation, too, of cold, almost 
sufficient to cause a chilling shudder, and the sound of 
water splashing about our feet and trickling down from 
the roof above us, and down the sides of the 'gangway,' 
were not well calculated to inspire confidence in the route 
we were about to travel. A short distance in the mine, 
we became accustomed to the dampness, and began to see 
measurably well, by an attentive pulling up of the cotton 
on our lamps, and a little straining of the eyes. 

" One of the prettiest eflects was the glow and dazzling 
"brilliancy of the lamps on the miners' hats, some distance 
ahead of us, as they bobbed up and down in the darkness, 
and we were enabled to detect the motions of the miner 



86 LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUXTAI^^S. 

bv the rising and falling, and jumping about, of tlie little 
star of flame fastened on Ms cap. 

" Furtber in, we were x^ulled aside by tbe guide to allow 
a lumbering mule-train to pass, and then, climbing up 
tlirougb a bole scarce large enough to crawl into, we were 
standing upright in a vaulted cavern, ^vith roof, floor, and 
sides of glistening coal, with the light of our uplifted lamps 
thrown back in hundreds of sparkles from the sharp and 
glistening corners of the newly fractured ' Locust Moun- 
tain.' 

" These openings, which are known as ' breasts,' vary in 
area from 150 to 180 feet, and are known by the technical 
name of ' rims,' being openings where the coal is worked 
by blasting and i^icks, aside from the main gangways — 
and are formed by working the veins from the lower stra- 
tum of slate upward, in the direction of the j)UTest vein, 
through the second layer of slate which lies above it. 
Leaving the ' breast,' and still fallowing the course of the 
rail-track in the gangway, a glimmer of faint blue light 
was seen on one side, and we were cautioned to hold our 
lamps high to avoid the current of fresh cold air searching 
down into the mine from the long and jagged excavation 
for an air-hole, with a patch of daylight looking no longer 
than one's hand. Through this we were respectfully 
invited to creep on hands and knees, following Billy, if 
we saw fit, and were reassured we would find ourselves on 
the side of the mountain, a long walk's distance from the 
opening. 

'' As we advanced, the way became more diflBcult in tra- 
veling, and we were fully aware of the necessity of care in 
looking above as well as on the sides, from one or two un- 
ceremonious bumps from the overhanging masses of coal. 
The ' breasts ' were still to be seen, though smaller — but 



87 



tlie veins of coal became deeper and purer, and tlie marks 
of lieavy blasts in tlie solid coal were visible on eacli side, 
while an occasional sensation of fatigue and a sliglit dif- 
ficulty in breathing gave good cause for heeding our guide's 
admonition, * Take it easy till the end of the gangway, 
and save your breath for the tramp back.' 

" Glad to find ourselves at the end of the path, and aston- 
ished to learn that we had walked nearly a mile under 
ground and into the side of the rugged mountain above us, 
we retraced our steps, following Billy with slow and cau- 
tious tread, but yet with no sign of daylight, and the little 
twinkling stars of the miner's lights a long way off, 
doubly brilliant in the increasing damp and darkness. 

" Again we pass the mule train and the group of miners, 
but were not allowed to do so till we had ' paid our footing' 
to the men — a custom, we believe, to which all visitors are 
subject, but which the most knowing ones generally con- 
trive to make a light taxation. Ha\i.ng paid tribute, we 
were allowed to proceed, through gangways closed by 
heavy wooden doors, to arrange and secure a good circu 
lation of air ; and then to the second opening, now being 
' driven ' — making a steep slope, where the track is being 
laid for an almost perpendicular descent into the mines, at 
the intersection of the side veins and the present gangway ; 
and finally found ourselves, tired, cold, and dirty, with dim- 
ly burning lamps and sooty faces and hands, again in day- 
light, at the opening of the ' drift/ or main entrance. 

" Heeding Mr. Conner's inj unction not to take off the 
coats too suddenly after the cold temperature of the mines, 
we thanked old Billy for his courtesy, sent our regards to 
his good old woman, the mother of fifteen children, boys 
and girls, as he had taken occasion to inform us ; and then 
climbed up the hill to the opening of the ' Buck Mountain 



88 LAKES, RIVERS, AXD MOUNTAINS. 

Vein ' Colliery, soon to be in operation, secured specimens 
of ' peacock/ or variegated coal, and waslied oJBF at the 
cooling spring at tlie Manor House — having taken a trip 
underground that your correspondent doesn't care to take 
often, yet, having taken it, does not regret, and, with a 
pleasant ' good day' from the Superintendent, rode back, 
tired and damp." 

HARRISBURG AND VICINITY. 

The natural scenery of Pennsylvania is unusually diver- 
sified and beautiful. About one fourth of her territory is 
occupied by mounta.in ranges, some of which are at least 
2000 feet above the level of the sea. These rano^es of 
mountains extend over a breadth of 200 miles, including 
many fruitful valleys and charming waters, and iron and 
coal deposits that are unequaled in any other State in the 
Union. 

From Xew-York City the most direct route to Pennsyl- 
vania, is via the Central Xew-Jersey or Allentown Railway, 
fi'om the foot of Liberty street. By stopping at th-e Junc- 
tion, 59 miles from Xew-Tork, and taking the Delaware 
and Lackawanna cars, the tourist may reach the Delaware 
Water Ga.p, whose wondrously beautiful scenery is worth 
looking at, (see article thereon,) or may proceed to Scran- 
ton and Wilkesbarre, in the Valley of the Wyoming, on 
the north branch of the SuscLuehanna River, and at leisure 
explore the surrounding coal-fields or review the scenes of 
Campbell's exquisite poem of Gertrude of Wyoming. 

If t'he tourist desire to reach the more central or south- 
ern parts of the State, he may continue in the Central 
New- Jersey cars to East on, a thriving place at the forks of 
the Delaware and Lehigh Rivers. About 18 miles west 
of E-aston is the quaint Moravian village of Bethlehem, 



LAKES, BIYERS, AXD ^IOU^^TAIXS. 89 

founded by Count Zinzendorf, in 1741, and containing a 
cliurcli capable of seating 2000 persons. A few miles west 
of tliat is Allentown, built upon liigli ground near tlie Le- 
high. River. There are mineral springs there which are 
greatly prized for the efficacy of their waters. 

Reading, the great centre of the iron interest of Penn- 
sylvania, is but 26 miles beyond Allentown. It is a thriv- 
ing city, situated in the midst of a very interesting land- 
scape, with railways leading ta the surrounding coal and 
iron mines, which carry to her doors veins of inexhausti- 
ble wealth. 

Harrisburg, tlie capital of the State, is 54 miles west of 
Reading by railway, on the east bank of the Susquehanna 
River. From the dome of the State House an extended 
view can be had of the winding river, its beautiful islands, 
its numerous handsome bridges, and the surroundinor 
mountains. Taking Harrisburg as a centre, the pleasure- 
seeker will find a variety of resorts to choose from, either 
or all of which, will prove attractive. 

Toward Pittsburg he will find Miffllnton, Lewistown, 
Huntingdon, Hollidaysburg, and Altoona, all east of the 
Alleghany Mountains, and in the beautiful and picturescjue 
valley of the Juniata. If he affects tlie grand and rugged 
in mountain scenery at higli altitudes, let liim go to the 
Su'mmit, where unequaled panoramas of God's works will 
reward his effort ; and if k please him, he may examine 
the result of man's labor in subduing nature to his uses in 
constructing the inclined plane for transporting merchan- 
dise across the m-onntain. 

Or, from Harrisburg he may proceed by railway directly 
up the Susquehanna River to Sunbury and Northumber- 
land, two quiet villages, stirrounded by beautiful scenery, 
and thence up the West Branch to Lewisburg, Milton, 



90 LAKES, EIYEES, AND MOUNTAINS. 

Willi amsport, and Lock Haven, all of wliicli have great at- 
tractions for tlie tourist. 

Starting again from Harrisburg, we cross tlie Cumber- 
land Valley Ridge and proceed direct to tlie ancient town 
of York, tlience to Swiser's Station, and from tlience to 
Gettysburg, wliere tlie decisive battle of the rebellion 
was fought. The National Cemetery and battle-field will 
always prove attractive to the visitor. Katalysine Water 
is also dispensed at Cettysburg for the cure of invalids. 

Starting for the fourth time from Harrisburg, we take 
the Cumberland Valley Railway and proceed to Carlisle, 
a pleasant town, the seat of Dickinson College, an excel- 
lent institution, under the care of the Methodist denomi- 
nation. Here, too, the United States has a barracks for 
training troops, which, before the rebellion, was commanded 
by General Lee, who was, therefore, enabled to familiarize 
himself with the strategetic points of the surrounding 
country. Thirty-one miles west is Chambersburg, which, 
previous to the war, was regarded the most beautiful town 
of the State. It received the particular attention of the 
rebels, who set fire to it, and consumed two millions of 
dollars' worth of property. It has since been closely re- 
built, wearing the appearance of a city rather than that of 
the rural village of the past, with fine houses surrounded 
by beautiful flower and vegetable-gardens, and all the evi- 
dences of material comfort. Mine host of the Xational 
Hotel will make all guests comfortable, and visitors will 
find that the vicinity abounds in beautiful scenery, with 
most superb roads for riding and driving. At the base of 
the neighboring mountain, valuable mineral springs are 
much patronized by invalids seeking health. A very few 
miles west of Chambersburg is Mount Parnell, from which 
most extended views of the adjoining villages may be 



LAKES, RIYEES, AND MOUNTAINS. 91 

had. In a clear atmospliere the scene is said to be beau- 
tiful and grand beyond descrii^tion. 

WILLIAMSTOWN, MASSACHUSETTS. 

Williamstown is the last village on the north-western 
border of the State of Massachusetts, being only 2 miles 
distant from Pownal, Vermont, and about the same dis- 
tance from the New- York line. Beautiful as a village, 
resting upon and between two hills, and surrounded on all 
sides by the magnificent Berkshire mountains, it is most 
attractive as a> point of departure for a great number of 
delightful retreats, out of the dry and dusty track of the 
professional tourist. It stands at a considerable altitude, 
and boasts the piu^est of mountain air — a great inducement 
to the young men who flock from all sections to the ancient 
college situated in and giving name to the village, founded 
under bequest of Colonel Ephraim Williams, in 1785. 

The Mansion House, A. G. Bailey, proprietor, is at present 
the only public house ; though limited facilities for obtain- 
ing board in private families exist. The hotel is open the 
year round, and can accommodate 125 guests. Commence- 
ment week at Williams College comes with the first Wed- 
nesday in August, after or before which the place is plea- 
santly quiet. There are telegraph and mail facilities. 
Terms at the hotel, $3 per day for less than two weeks, 
and §10 to $15 per week by the season. 

Williamstown may be reached from Xew-York by at least 
9 oifierent routes, the best of which are : by People's Line 
steamers t-o Troy, arriving 6 a.m. ; Troy and Boston Rail- 
way to Williamstown direct, arriving at 10 o'clock — stage 
to hotel 1 mile : or by Hudson River or Harlem Railway, 
etc. : or by New-York and New-Haven Railway, 8 A.M., to 
Bridgeport; thence by Housatonic Railway (through the 



92 LAKES, EIYERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 

beautiful vallej of that name) to Pittsfield, 5 p.m. ; Pitts- 
field and North.- Adams Railway, 20 miles, 2 hours ; stage 
from Adams to Williamstown, 5 miles, arriving at Mansion 
House 8^ P.M. Fare by the New- York route, river (\\dth 
berth and meals on boat) and rail, $4.95 ; by, Housatonic, 
not over $5, purchasing tickets at New- York for Pittsfield, 
and at Pittsfleld for Williamstown direct through. 

The chief attractions of the neighborhood of Williams- 
town are as follows : 

To those disposed or obliged to confine their wander- 
ings near headquarters, there is Williams College with its 
ancient and classical memories, geological museum, gym- 
nasium, (affording excellent bowling privileges, generally 
available,) and library ; Flora's Glen, a pretty enough ram- 
ble up the wooded banks of a mountain brook, where the 
poet Bryant, when a Sophomore in college, wrote Tliana- 
topsis ; Sand Sj^ring, a chalybeate bath, 2 miles on the 
Pownal road; and some fishing in the Green river or 
rivulet, J of a mile from the hotel. To the more active 
visitor there are equal attractions : Snow Hole, a rugged 
mountain ride of some 10 miles, to a great fissure where 
stubborn snow delights the eye in any month of summer : 
the " great bore of Massachusetts," Hoosack Tunnel, the 
'American rival of Mont Cenis, 4 miles long — (to be and to 
be finished — when ?) distant about 7 miles, a little beyond 
North- Adams ; the Revolutionary localities on the road 
thither, not to add the great paper and woolen factories ; 
the Natm-al Bridge ; the Cascades, a beautiful silver thread 
of water falling 30 feet, half-way to Adams ; but chiefly, 
the ride and visit to Lebanon Springs (Shakers) and 
Shaker Village, 20 to 30 miles to the south-east, and the 
grand mountain scenery. Perhaps the easiest mountain 
to ascend which commands a great ^dew is Berlin, reached 



LAKES, EI VERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 93 

by a very precipitous carriage-road of about 10 niiles in all 
from tlie liotel. The neighboring peaks, from 2500 to 3500 
feet liigli, and the interjacent valleys, afford miniature 
Alpine views, too, and the outstretched landscape of Massa- 
chusetts adds the needed beautiful contrast. Greylock 
Mountain, distant 4 miles, difficult of access, is the highest 
peak in Massachusetts, 3500 feet. It is commonly consid- 
ered inaccessible for ladies ; but gentlemen form parties and 
camp out over-night on its summit, enjoying a peculiarly 
fine view at sunrise. Much of the ascent of the mountain 
itself must be made on foot, though the roads to the base 
are fine. There was formerly a tower on the top, now 
wantonly destroyed ; but with little difficulty the tree-tops 
are surmounted to obtain the far-reacliing view which richly 
repays every beholder. 

THE EUTLAND AI^D BTJRLmCJTOK KAILY/AY. 

In the article entitled Williamstown, Mass., we call 
attention to the charming rural scenery which one may 
enjoy in every direction from that Ai.llage as a centre. The 
route thither diverges at Eagle Bridge from the great 
northern trunk route of travel. This latter we now pro- 
pose to pursue as far as Burlington, whence the sketches 
of Laxe Champlain and Mansfield and Mempheema- 
GOG will direct the reader northward through the remain- 
der of the State of Vermont. 

Bennington. — The town of Bennington is situated in 
the south-western part of the State of Vermont, adjoining 
the New-York line on the west, and with only one town 
(Pownal) between it and the Massachusetts line on the 
south. It derives its name from Benning Wentworth, 
provincial governor of New-Hampshire, and the grantor of 
the charter under which, in 1761, the town was originally 



94 LAKES, EIVERS, AND MOUXTAIXS. 

organized. There are at present tliree villages in tlie 
town, containing, in 1860, with the remainder of the town, 
4392 inhabitants. The oldest village, now called Benmng- 
ton Centre, is the Bennington of Revolutionary fame ; the 
village now knov\'n hj that name not ha^i.ng come into 
existence till many years later. These are 1 mile apart, 
and are about 5 miles from the other, North-Bennington, 
also a comparatively new village. Bennington is m.ore 
than 800 feet above tide-water, and being so close to the 
mountains, is, to one accustomed to the heat of the city, 
never hot. The thermometer seldom rises to 90, and this 
only for a few days at a time. The nights are almost 
invariably cool, the mercury sinking rapidly with the sun. 
Among the many objects of interest in the old ^i.llage, is 
the once famous '' Catamount Tavern," where the " Coun- 
cil of Safety," the then only government of the State, held 
its sittings ; the " Council Room " being still preserved 
intact. The tavern took its name from a stuffed catamount 
grinning defiance at neighboring Xew-York from the top 
of a pole in its front. New- York and Xew-Hampshire at 
that time both claimed jurisdiction over the territory 
which vv^as then known as the Xew-Hampshire Grants. 
The inhabitants acknowledged allegiance to Xew-Hamp- 
shire, but denied in most emxDhatic terms the claims of 
New- York ; so there was a quarrel which lasted almost 
from the first settlement of the State until it was admitted 
into the Union, in 1791. To defend their claims against 
New- York, the '' Green Mountain Boys " were organized, 
with Ethan Allen as their leader. Here, at ''Landlord 
Fay's," they had their headquarters, Allen's house being 
the next adjoining, and still standing. Under Allen's lead- 
ership they became famous, and soon after the outbreak of 
hostilities with Great Britain, were organized into a regi- 



LAKES, EIVEES, AND MOUNTAIKS. 95 

ment, ^vitli Setli Warner as colonel, and, conjointly witli 
Stark's troops, won the Battle of Bennington, Angnst IGtli, 
1777. The battle-ground is not in tliis village, nor, indeed, 
in the town of Bennington, nor State of Yermont, but in 
Hoosack, tlie adjoining town in tlie State of Xew-York. It 
can be distinctly seen from the Observatory mentioned 
hereafter, and the exact spot is pointed out where John 
Stark stood when he made the famous address to his 
troops : " See there, men ! there are the red-coats! Before 
to-night tliey are ours, or Molly Stark will be a widow !" 

Mount Anthony is the chief natural object of interest in 
this vicinity. It stands 2 miles behind the Mount Anthony 
Flouse, on a by-path, and 4|- miles by carriage-road. A 
tower was erected on the summit in 1864, 100 feet high ; 
from this, one of the finest views of Yermont is to be had. 
There are accommodations for man and beast at this obser- 
vatory. 

Bennino^ton also boasts fine drives, amono^ which Peters- 
burg and Prospect Mountains are sought, affording delight- 
ful views. On the road beyond Prospect, at ^Yoodford, we 
pass the Big Pond, a beautiful sheet of water. Just above 
it, on the first eminence of the road, we cross the water- 
shed dividing the valleys of the Hudson and the Connecti- 
cut, at a point 2600 feet above tide- water. 

Besides these attractions, there is fjood trout-fishino- in 
the Grreen Mountain streams hereabout. 

Chief hotel, the Mount xlnthony House, Messrs. Rogers 
& Nutting, proprietors ; rooms 'for 200 guests ; trains 3 
times daily; station distant 3 minutes' walk. Time to 
Troy, 1^ hours. Route from New- York, Hudson River by 
boat or rail to Troy ; thence to Bennington, by Troy and 
Boston, etc. 

ManchestePv. — The villao:e of Manchester dates from 



98 LAKES, RIYEES, AND MOUNTAINS. 

Lake Bombazine, mostly in the town of Castleton, is a 
"beautiful sheet of Vv^ater, 9 miles long. Those fond of boating 
and fishing, may here find ample opportunity for their favor- 
ite sport. Bass, both Oswego and rock, pickerel and perch 
are abundant. Mr. Heath keeps the hotel at Hydeville 
and a boat-house at Heath's Ferry. Larned's House is 
also at Heath's Ferry. The works of the West-Castleton 
Slate Compa.ny, situated on the western shore of Lake 
Bombazine, are the most extensive of their kind in this 
country. Slate in the largest slabs and of the best quality 
is quarried here, wrought into a great variety of forms, 
and marbleized to imitate different kinds of marble. The 
ride from Poultney to West-Castleton and return presents 
a beauty and variety of scenery seldom equaled. 

At Lake Austin is the Saint Catherine House, C. W. 
Potter, proprietor, to be addressed at Wells, Vt, This 
hotel opens June 18th, 1868. Visitors for Lake Austin stop 
at Granville, N. Y., or Poultney, Vt., station. 

Etjtlakd. — Rutland, Vt., 85 miles from Troy, 67 from 
Burlington, is a county-seat with some 8000 inhabitants. 
Hotels, Bardwell and Central, both near the depot. The 
village is an important one upon our route, not less than 
four railways making it a station. There is a restaurant 
in the large and commodious, if not elegant, depot. The 
visitor will first be struck with the peculiar appearance 
which the streets present, on account of their being paved 
with white marble. The quarries, near by, will abun- 
dantly repay one for a visit. The summit of the hill upon 
which Rutland stands affords a fine view. Otter Creek 
passes through the village. There are a number of inter- 
esting localities which the tourist may visit from Rutland 
as his headquarters. 

Killington Peak, called the third mountaiii of Vermont, 




Glen EUis Falls, White Mountains. 



LAKES, EIYERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 99 

rises on the eastern side of tlie village, and is tlie most 
important, perhaps, of the many notable spots hereabout. 
To the foot of the mountain the distance is 7 miles, and 2 
miles more to the summit. On the north side is a perpen- 
dicular ledge of 200 feet, called Capitol Rock. Mount Ida, 
too, is not far off, beyond Killington Peak, as seen from 
Rutland, and northward are Mount Pico and Castleton 
Ridge, shutting out the view of Lake Champlain. 

Clarendon Springs, a favorite place of resort, is a few 
miles south of Rutland, on the Rutland and Washington 
Railway. Stages run from West-Rutland Station, 4 miles 
south of Rutland. The medicinal virtues of these waters, 
the varied and beautiful scenery, the pleasant drives 
around, and the excellent hotel accommodations, make 
this watering-place a very desirable summer halt. 

MiDDLEBURY. — The oldest college in the State of Ver- 
mont, founded 1800, (commencement second week in 
August,) gives a classic appearance to the pleasant town 
of Middlebury, situated on one of the numerous falls of 
Otter Creek. The principal fall of this stream, 40 feet 
high, bears the distinctive title of its parent, and is at 
Vergennes, about 7 miles from Lake Champlain, 46 miles 
from Rutland, and 21 miles from Burlington. 

The Addison House, at Middlebury, is a large and excel- 
lent country hotel, and is a favorite point of departure for 
a very interesting region of Vermont. Lake Castleton, 
Belden's Falls, Elgin Springs, etc., are but a short distance 
away. Carriages may be had at reasonable rates. 

Lake Dunmore, 8 miles by stage, is a wonderfully pic- 
turesque lake, 5 miles long and 3 wide, surrounded at 
most points by bold hills, and containing plenty of fish 
A good summer hotel and several cottages tempt the 
tourist to delay his departure indefinitely. 



100 LAKES, EIYERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 

Brandon is just midway (16 miles) from. Rutland and 
Middlebury. It is interesting for its mineral resources ; 
particularly, the tourist will visit two caverns of limestone, 
tlie largest containing two apartments, each from 16 to 20 
feet square. The entrance is 20 feet "below the surface. 

Saint Alban's. — On the direct route between Burling- 
ton and Montreal, stands St. Alban's, Yt. The Welden 
House, Messrs. Cool & McDonald, is a large and first-class 
hotel, with a sulphur spring within its control. The 
scenery near Saint Alban's is considered unequaled, espe- 
cially a view from the summit of Aldis Hill and Bellevue. 
The village itself is very attractive, and by some is called 
the most beautiful in this State. The famous rebel raid 
from Canada here took place, Oct. 19th, 1864. 

MOOSILAUKE MOUITTAIN, WAEKEN, IT. H. 

Moosilauke Mountain can be reached by one of the re- 
gular lines of communication northward by rail. Leaving 
Concord, N. H., ma Concord and Montreal Railway, a few 
hours' ride brings you to the little town of Warren. Here 
excursionists mil find accommodations for the ascent of 
the mountain, which can be accomplished on foot or horse- 
back. The proprietor of the Prospect House, on the sum- 
mit of the mountain, usually accompanies travelers in 
their ascent, entertaining them with wild and fantastic 
stories of bears and wolves — certainly he has a natural 
faculty of imparting a good deal of the genial nature 
within to those natures without. He believes " it of no 
use to tell a story, unless you call the mind into action.'^ 

Viewed from the south side of the town, Moosilauke 
presents two peaks bold, bald, and distinct. Standing upon 
the highest of these and turning around slowly u]3on your 
heel, the eye comprehends, to the northward, the Valley 



LAKES, EIVEES, AND MOUNTAINS. 101 

of the Connecticut and the table-lands of Canada ; to the 
eastward, the finest possible view of the White and Fran- 
conia Mountains ; to the south v/ard, the ocean, dimly fleck- 
ing the horizon ; to the westward, the rollincr Green Moun- 
tains of Vermont, with Camel's Hump and Mount Marcy 
of the Cat skill Range, New- York. 

Moosilauke, from its height and isolated position, com- 
mands many advantages over all other mountains in New- 
England. The view from Mount Washington is more 
grand, no doubt. But the surrounding peaks shut down 
close and allow you no distance, the charm of mountain 
scenery. Moosilauke has every thing her own way. No 
high cliffs say to you, " Thus far, and no farther." The 
very best time for ascending the mountain is in a storm. 
A clear summer's day, " tenderly illumined," is very fine 
indeed. 

WILLOUGHBY LAKE. 

In the town of Westmore, in Northern Vermont, 30 
miles from the Canada line, and 350 from New- York 
City, is Willoughby Lake, whose scenery geologically 
resembles that of the Yo Semite Valley in California. 
The lake is 6 miles long, the northern end curving a 
little to the east, and from a half to 2 miles wide. Its 
depth is so great that no reliable measurement has been 
made. Between the mountains, in the narrowest place, 
where the water is the deepest, it has been sounded to the 
depth of 600 feet, and no bottom was found. On either 
side rises a huge mountain to more than 2000 feet, Mount 
Willoughby, on the east side, being 2638 feet above the 
lake, and 3800 feet above the sea. A carriage-road was 
constructed several years ago along the eastern shore, from 
which may be had a better view of the mighty grandeur 



102 LAKES, EIYEES, AXD MOUXTAIXS. 

of Mount "Willougliby than from any other point near its 
base. For nearly 2 miles a iDerpendicnJar wall of granite 
rock, intermingled with, silicious limestone, rises to the 
height of 600 feet, while below, between it and the lake, 
the side of the mountain, more than 1000 feet. in height, 
covered with huge rocks, is little less than perpendicular 
to the summit. 

Leaving the hotel just south of the lake, you enter the 
woods, and after a walk of 2 miles through the forest of 
maple, beech, and spruce, passing two springs of the purest 
and coldest of water, you reach the summit, and obtain a 
grand view. East are the Franconia and White Moun- 
tains; the Tip-Top House of Mount "Washington being 
easily seen with a glass in a clear day. West is the entire 
ra.nge of the Green Mountains, among which can be seen 
the summits of Killington Peak, Camel's Hump, Mount 
Mansfield, and Jay Peak. Between these two great moun- 
tain ranges, and within your vision, are ponds, wide forests, 
cultivated fields, farm-houses, and villages, forming a 
magnificent scene. Xext, going further to the west, and 
approaching close to the precipice, you look down upon 
the lake, 2500 feet below. The purity and transparency of 
the water of the lake is here observed. Along its shores, 
for several miles, every rock and sunken log can be seen. 
From here is a view of the entire length of the lake, the 
eastern shore of which seems almost in a straight line. 
Moimt Hor, on the west side, and Mount Willoughby on 
the east, have the appearance of once having been united. 

The walks and drives around Willoughby are numerous 
and i^leasant. That down the lake shore, under the frown- 
ing walls of Mount Willoughby, will first claim attention. 
The scenery down the entire length of the lake is grand 
and beautiful, although not so rugged as it is before reach- 



LAKES, EIYEES, AXD MOUNTAINS. 103 

ing Point of Rocks. Tlie distances from tlie liotel to otliei 
places of interest, are : Island Pond, where there is a grand 
hotel, 20 miles ; Newport, bv team, 20 ; Derby Line, 22 ; 
Stanstead Plain, 23 ; Saint Johnsbnrr, 22 ; Barton, 11 ; 
AYest-Charleston, 10 ; Burke Mountain, 10 ; West-Burke, 
6 ; Newark, 6. 

On the road to Barton, about a mile and a half east ol 
the depot, is the Flume. The stream from May's Pond 
passes through it, descending into Crystal Lake. In the 
solid granite rock is a passage-way for the water, 140 feet 
long, 10 feet wide, and from 20 to 30 feet in depth. The 
walls rise almost x)erpendicularly, and are as smooth as if 
cut by the hand of man. Some utilitarian has constructed 
a saw-mill over it, and turned it to practical account, thus 
greatly marring its beauty. It is, however, well worth 
\i.siting. 

Plunket Falls, in Clyde Ptiver, at Charleston, 12 miles 
from AVilloughby Lake House, are exceedingly beautiful. 
Here the river maizes a descent of 100 feet in a half-mile, 
and at one point below the saw-mill it makes almost a per- 
pendicular fall of 30 feet. Another favorite ride from the 
hotel is to Xewark Hill, from which can be seen the 
White and Green Mountain ranges. 

Hotel. — Excepting a summer residence, built by a 
gentleman of Xewark, N. J., and the houses of the hotel, 
there are no buildings in the vicinity of Willoughby Lake. 
The place is, therefore, commendable chiefly to families 
desiring a quiet summer retreat, surrounded by the best 
of mountain and lake scenery, and T\i.thdrawn from the 
noisy centres of travel. The Willoughby Lake House has 
accommodations for 50 to 100 boarders, at rural terms. 
Proprietor, Mr. Alonzo Bemis. Carriages wait at West 
Burke Railway Station, 6 miles distant. LalvO Memphre- 



104 LAKES, EIYERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 

magog is 28 miles north, of West-Burke, and White Rivei 
Junction 77 south. The hotel is supplied with pure, cold 
spring water, brought in pipes from the hillside. From 
the hotel it runs north into the lake, and thence into Lake 
Memphremagog and the Saint Lawrence. About 20 rods 
in the rear of the hotel is a little lakelet, which discharges 
into a small stream running south into the Passumpsic, 
and thence into the Connecticut. It is situated so near the 
water-shed between Long Island Sound and the Saint Law- 
rence, that a few hours' work would change its outlet from 
the Connecticut to the Saint Lawrence. 

Route. — From New- York, bj New-Haven, Worcester, 
and Springfield, and Connecticut River Railways; from 
Boston, by Cheshire Railway to Bellows Falls ; thence by 
Connecticut and Passumpsic Railway to West-Burke 
Station, where the hotel carriages may be found. 

UP LAKE SUPERIOS. 

The most varied summer trip that can be taken in this 
country is up Lake Superior, across the wilderness to Saint 
Paul, and down the Mississippi River. It requires four or 
six weeks, and costs each, tourist not far from $300, includ 
ing hotel and all expenses. We know every inch of the 
way, and can assure pleasure and health-seekers that they 
can nowhere find safer or more inspiring recreation. 

The best months in the year for the Lake Superior trip 
are July and August. During September there are very 
likely to be gales upon the lakes. The tourist can take the 
boat at Cleveland or Detroit, and will be about 5 days in 
reaching Ontonagon, where most of the boats stop, or 6 
to Superior City, the extreme end of the lake, and where 
the steamer Keweenaw alone goes. The fare is about $30 
from Cleveland, which, includes state-room, board, and 



LAKES, RIVERS, AXD MOUNTAIXS. 105 

every tiling. Tlie names of tlie boats for tlie year 1868 are 
as follows : North. west, Capt. Kirtland ; Keweenaw, Capt. 
Stewart; Meteor, Capt. Wilson; ISTorthern Light, Capt. 
Murcli; Concord, Capfc. Mclntyre. The Northwest will 
run between Detroit and Portage, leaving Detroit every 
Tuesday evening. This steamer will make occasional ex- 
cursion trips about the north shore of Lake Superior. The 
other steamers will run from Cleveland to Ontonagon, 150 
miles below Superior City. The Keewenaw will run to the 
latter place. The round trip will occupy 2 weeks. A 
steamer will leave Detroit every Thursday and Saturday. 

Very many, in fact the majority of lake tourists, make 
the round trip on the same steamer. This costs only 
about $60, and is really very delightful. The steamers 
are staunch and elegant, and life upon them is varied by 
much that is pleasant. 

The navigation of the upper lakes is as safe as travehng 
in any part of the country. Very erroneous impressions 
exist T^dth regard to this matter, because of several disas- 
ters which occurred during autumn gales. The very 
strongest vessels are built for the line, and the most expert 
officers a.re placed in charge. We know enough of the plea- 
sures of the lake trip to assure tourists that they will be de- 
lighted beyond measure. It is an uncommon, rather than 
a common thing, for tourists by the steamers to be sea-sick. 

After leaving Detroit, the tourist passes through Lake 
Saint Clair, on the shores of which are many elegant resi- 
dences. There is nothing of special interest till you have 
crossed Lake Huron and arrived at the great ship-canal in the 
Saint Mary's River. Twenty miles below you pass Church's 
Landing, noted for '' raspberry-j am " and Indian curiosities. 
Gander River Settlement is an Indian village 10 miles be- 
low. At the Saut Sainte Marie, or " Soo," as every body in 



106 



tlie West calls it, tlie rapids in tlie river tliat unite Lakes 
Huron and Superior descend 20 feet in a mile, totally ob- 
structing navigation. The sliip-canal, however, which has 
recently been constructed on the American side, obviates 
this difficulty. Steamers of a large class now pass through 
the locks into Lake Superior, greatly facilitating trade and 
commerce. The village on the American side is pleasantly 
situated near the foot of the rapids, and contains a court- 
house and jail ; a Presbyterian, a Methodist, and a Roman 
Catholic church ; 2 hotels, and 15 or 20 stores and store- 
houses, besides a few manufacturing establishments, and 
about 1200 inhabitants. Many of the inhabitants and In- 
dians in the vicinity are engaged in the fur trade and fish- 
eries, the latter being an important and profitable occupa- 
tion. Summer visitors flock to this place and the Lake 
Superior country for health and pleasure. The Chippewa 
House, a well-kept hotel on the American side, and one on 
the Canadian side of the river, both afford good accommo- 
dations. 

Fort Brady is an old and important United States mili 
tary post contiguous to this frontier village, where are 
barracks for a full garrison of troops. It commands the 
Saint Mary's River and the approach to the mouth of the 
canal. 

Saut Sainte Marie, Ontario, is a scattered settlement, 
where is located a part of the Hudson Bay Company. Here 
is a steamboat landing, a hotel, and 2 or 3 stores, including 
the Hudson Bay Company's ; and it has from 500 to 600 in 
habitants. Indians of the Chippewa tribe reside in the 
vicinity in considerable numbers, they having the exclusive 
right to take fish in the waters contiguous to the rapids. 
They also employ themselves in running the rapids in theii 
frail canoes, when desired by citizens or strangers. 



LAKES, EIYEES, AND MOUNTAINS. 107 

This canal, wMch. connects tlie navigation of Lake Supe- 
rior Avith. tlie lower lakes, is 1 mile in length, and cost 
about $1,000,000. The stupendous task of building it was 
accomplished in the years 1853, '54, '55, bj the Saint 
Mary's Falls Ship-Canal Company, under a contract with 
commissioners appointed by the authorities of the State of 
Michigan to secure the building of the canal. A grant 
of 750,000 acres of the public land had previously been 
made by Congress to the State of Michigan to aid in the 
construction of this important work. 

This grant of 750,000 acres was given to the parties con- 
tracting for the building of the canal, provided the work 
should be completed within two years from the date of 
the contract. The work was commenced May, 1853, and 
completed within the time specified in the contract, {two 
years!) a result reached under many disadvantages, dur- 
ing a very sickly season, and w^hen great difficulty was 
experienced in obtaining laborers ; but the unremitting 
vigor of those who had the charge of the work secured its 
completion in the most substantial, permanent, and accep- 
table manner. During much of the time, from 1200 to 
1600 men were employed upon the work, exclusive of the 
force at the different quarries where the stone was cut and 
prepared for the locks, beside a large force employed in 
other necessary agencies, such as getting timber, etc. 
The stones for the locks were cut at Anderden, Canada, 
(near Maiden,) and at Marblehead, near Sandusky, in Ohio. 
These were sent in vessels to the work, some 25 different 
sailing vessels being employed in this business. 

On leaving the ship-canal at the Saut, the steamer as- 
cends a beautiful stretch of the Saint Mary's Kiver for 10 
miles before reaching Waiska Bay, being an expansion of 



108 LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 

tlie river of alDoiit 5 miles. Here tlie sTiores assume a. bold 
appearance well worthy tlie attention of tlie traveler before 
lannching out on the waters of the broad lake. 

Iroquois Point, on the American side, and Gros Cap, on 
tlie Canadian side, are next passed, 15 miles from the Saut 
Sainte Marie. The latter is a bold promontory, rising some 
400 or 500 feet above the w^ater, with still higher hills 
rising in the distance. 

Tonquamenon Bay is next entered, and a scene of gran- 
deur is presented to the view ; on the south-west, or Ameri- 
can shore, the land rises to a moderate height, while on the 
north-east, or Canada shore, the land rises to mountain 
height, being elevated from 800 to 1000 feet, running off 
tar in the distance toward the north. 

Parisien and other islands, attached to Canada, are pass- 
ed on the right, the bay being about 25 miles long and as 
many broad; in fact, forming a part of Lake Superior, 
whose pure waters are in full view as far as the eye can 
reach. 

Goulais Bay and Point, another bold headland, lie to 
the north of Gros Cap. 

The Pictured Rocks, of which almost fabulous accounts 
are given by travelers, are one of the wonders of Lake Su- 
perior. Here are to be seen the Cascade Falls and other 
objects of great interest. The Amphitheatre, Miners' 
Castle, Chapel, Grand Portal, and Sail Rock, are points of 
great picturesque beauty. 

Just opposite the Pictured Rocks is Grand Island, 125 
miles distant from the Saut, about 10 miles long and 5 
wide, lying close in to the south shore. This is a wild 
and romantic island. There are several romantic bays 
and inlets protected from storms which are frequent on 



LAE^S. EIVEES5 AXD MOrXTAlXS. 109 

Lake Superior, where brook trout of a large size can be 
caug-bt in quantities. Tbe forests also afford a deligbtfiil 

retreat. 

A few families reside on tlie soiitli shore, facing the 
mainland, where i5 a clearing of considerable extent. Tlie 
main-shore in full sight, and the Pictured Eocks^ visible 
from its eastern shore, altogether add a charm, to this tmlT 
Grand Maud, xmsorpassed by no other spot in this intei:- 
esiing region. 

jIunisLng, formerly called G^rand Islaul City hes !i the 
south side of Grand I-hiii 3:.; hri r : ;: 8 :ii:l?^ ::: ^^ith. 
Here is a stea:::': ' :." "'h::: :.Li h;:fl, : :_-r:hrr vr::h a few 
dwellings, destined, \^^th:.;: i: \ : : v; :iie a favjrite 
place of resort, as from this h :e :hr Pi : 1 i E :ks can 
be easily reach i "7 :::_ - :: ? lii :- i rii. ;i:: 
weather. Trout hshiii^- i- :\i-: _': : i ::i Aiiz's Hiver, which 
enters Grand Island B:;-. a:ii in Xii.r: s River, near the 

The bay or harbor is capacious, deep, arid easv of access 
from the east or west, i ?iz^ f niiie- i:: ie::~ii ':y frrz: C 
to 4 in width, with a dr::h : Tri :; i : - : _i = 
ward. It is perfectly land-i :h 7 i y iiis :i-:-i, :: :: i ^ 
to 300 feet high, a- i :y::i :? ei. ;^h:: : :::::- :he en- 
tire fleet of the lakcS. 

The traveler desirous of wlsiting the Pictvnei h::ks 
should take advan::_ : ::r : the steamers or : iiers 
which navigate th if: : i i :i :.- t :::ii f^i :: :f :r ::. 
which he can proceed :: :ii:i:: d: : :;r :: :d in: r - :d ^ 
p<Hnts in a small boat. Th i ::_ vessels on the i:df i 
not approach sufficiently near - : iin- to allow the traveler 
to gather more than a gennr:i hi : : their position and 
outlines. To be able to aprr; d : : : r d understand their 
extraordinarv character, it is in di- ens fh : : no- 



110 TAKES, EIYEES, AND MOUNTAINS. 

in close proximity to the cliffs, and pass beneath the Grand 
Portal, which is only accessible from the lake, and to land 
and enter within the precincts of the Chapel. At Grand 
Island, boats, men, and provisions may be procured. The 
traveler should lay in a good supply, if it is intended to be 
absent long enough to make a thorough examination of 
the whole series. In fact, an old voyager will not readily 
trust himself to the mercy of the \^inds and waves of the 
lake without them, as he may not unfrequently, however 
auspicious the weather when starting, find himself weather- 
bound for days together. It is possible, however, in one 
day, to start from Grand Island, see the most interesting 
points, and return. The distance from William's to the 
Chapel — the farthest point of interest — is about 15 miles. 
After the Pictured Rocks, Marquette is the next place of 
interest. This is the largest place on the lake, and is 
chiefly interesting for its famous iron mines, 12 miles back 
from the town. 

On leaving Marquette, the tourist passes Granite Island, 
the Huron Isles, and Huron Bay, and passes through Port- 
age Entry to Houghton and Hancock, the celebrated min- 
ing towns of the copper-veined Keweenaw Point. Here is 
the place to witness copper mining. The other stopping- 
X^laces on the lake are Copper Harbor, Eagle Harbor, On- 
tonagon, Bayfield, and finally Superior City. Most of the 
steamers go no farther than Ontonagon, and here is also a 
capital place to witness copper mining. Bayfield is a gov- 
ernment post, and is settled all about by Chippewa Indians. 
Superior City is splendidly situated at the head of the lake, 
and between the two rivers, Saint Louis and Nemeji. 

From Superior City the tourist should not fail to take a 
sail along the north shore of Lake Superior, stopping at Bea 
ver Bay, Encampment River, and Isle Royal. This latter 



LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUKTAINS. HI 

is the great storeliouse for agates and cHorastolites. The 
tourist should also sail up the Saint Louis River 20 miles to 
Saint Louis Falls, which have a fall of 60 feet. If he can get 
his craft around the falls, he can ascend the Saint Louis 80 
miles farther. Adventurous young ladies and gentlemen 
will accomplish quite a feat by visiting Black River Falls, 
12 miles from Superior City. 

Tri- weekly stages go from Superior City to Saint Paul, a 
distance of 163 miles. The time occupied is 3 days, and 
the fare about $15. It is a wild and interesting trip to 
take. 

Altogether, the Lake Superior trip is a splendid one in- 
deed, especially for any who are troubled with bronchial 
or pulmonary affections. The air is cool and dry, and ex- 
ceedingly invigorating. 

SAINT LOUIS AND VICINITY. 

At the eastern border of the great journey ^'across the 
Continent," which must be included in guide-books of our 
era, stands the city of Saint Louis. Situated as it is, almost 
midway between two oceans, and near the geographical 
centre of the finest agricultural region on the globe, almost 
at the very focus toward which converge the Mississippi, 
the Missouri, the Ohio, and the Illinois Rivers, there can 
be no doubt that it is destined to become, at no distant 
period, the great receiving and distributing depot of most 
of the vast region drained by these streams. Its natural 
advantages as a commercial emporium may be confidently 
compared with those of any other inland port in the world. 
The first settlement on the present site was made Feb. 15th, 
1764, by Pierre Liqueste Laclede, leader of a company of 
merchants, under grant from the Director-General of Louis- 
iana. The spot was carefully selected, after comparison 



112 LAKES, EIVERS, AND MOUNTAIXS. 

mill many other points on tlie Mississippi shore. In 1770, 
there were 40 families at the settlement. The first brick 
house was erected in 1813. A city charter was given 1822. 
About the year 1825, the great State of Illinois began to 
grow and increase, and this gave Saint Louis its first great 
impulse. The occupation of the river by steamboat trade, 
(the first steamer arrived at the city in 1817,) began to as- 
sume magnificent proportions in 1822, and is now unsur- 
passed by any western city. Present population not far 
from 200,000. Saint Louis was taken possession of Aug. 
11th, 1768, by a company of Spanish troops, under Captain 
Rious, in the name of his king, and remained under that 
control until its transfer to the United States in 1804. The 
British threatened it in 1780, but to no avail. 

Hotels. — Saint Louis has been able to boast of the grand- 
est hotel in the United States ; but an unlucky fire during 
the spring of 1867 destroyed its glory, unless the visitor 
concede to the fellow of the Lindell, the Southern House, 
an equal elegance. The Southern stands on the block 
bounded by Fourth, Fifth, Walnut, and Elm streets, and 
contains 500 rooms. The Planters' Hotel, on Fourth street, 
near the Court-House, is the " Astor" of Saint Louis, resem- 
bling that ancient structure in appearance and in comfort, 
and being the chief old established house of entertain- 
ment. Next after the Southern and the Planters' come 
Barnum's, on Walnut and Second streets ; and yet more 
moderate in price is the Everett, on Fourth near Chestnut 
street. The "European plan" of hotel-keeping is not 
known among the chief houses in this city. Horse-cars 
traverse almost all portions of the city to its outer limits. 

The first things which travelers will be apt to notice 
within the city of St. Louis, after the everlasting smoke 
from bituminous coal to which all western cities are 



LAKES, EIYEKS, AND MOUNTAINS. 113 

subject, are, the beauty of the building material used for 
houses, and the clean, noiseless, smooth wooden streets. 
The famous Nicholson pavement is used throughout all 
the recently paved sections. The material used in the 
fronts of buildings of pretension is a ^^erj light native 
stone, most nearly approaching cream-color, quarried not 
very far from the city. It affords the most splendid effects 
in the newer buildings. The most elegant residence street 
in Saint Louis, about a quarter of a mile further from the 
river than the late Lindell or the Everett, is Lucas Place, 
a short but wide avenue, paved exceptionally with large 
oblong blocks of white granite, which, with the brilliant 
fagades of the mansions, make a most striking and attrac- 
tive appearance. Lucas Place terminates at one of the 
few miserable parks — now being improved, we believe — 
which detract from the beauty of the city. There is at 
this point a very elegant church edifice, of the Presbyte- 
rian denomination. The principal business street of the 
city is Fourth, named from its relative position back from 
the river, to which it runs parallel. Immediately behind 
it (Fifth) is the next street of importance. The older por- 
tion of the town, well worthy a visit for its remains of the 
French civilization, is toward the south, in the vicinity 
of the market and the railway depots to Iron Mountain 
and the Pacific. 

Among the most interesting public buildings are the 
Court-House, on Fourth street, with an elegantly frescoed 
dome, from which we may have a fine view of the city ; 
the Mercantile Library, (with the best public hall,) on 
Fifth street, where are some of the finest marbles (Beatrice 
in Prison, Zenobia, [copy from the large one,] Puck, and 
CEnone) of Miss Harriet Hosmer, who studied here, a fine 
collection of old paintings, and a well-collected library 



114 LAKES, EIYEES, A:N-D MOUNTAINS. 

tlie Mercliants' Exchange on Main (First) and Commercial 
streets — admission by permit from the superintendent ; 
the Custom-House and Post-Office, the finest abode of the 
mail service in the country, apart from the general oilice 
at Washington, situated on Third and Olive streets. 

Outside of the city one will vn.sh to see the curious In- 
dian moilnds for which Saint Louis is famous, being some 
times called therefrom, " the Mound City." These relics 
of barbarism are, alas ! fast disappearing, to the dismay 
of the antiquarian and the tourist, as the city pushes its 
new civilization more and more into the open country 
about it. A few of them, however, still remain near the 
city, or within it ; we may call attention particularly to one, 
mentioned in Dana's New American CyclopcEdia, (to which, 
indeed, we must refer our reader for a very interesting and 
instructive essay, [AMEBiCAlir AlsTlQTJlTlES,] on these de- 
fensive or sacred tumuli,) on the plain of Cahokia in Illinois, 
opposite Saint Louis. This is 700 feet long by oOO broad 
at base, and is 90 feet high, covering upward of 8 acres of 
ground, and having 20,000,000 cubic feet of contents. 

The great flower-gardens of Mr. Shaw, (we may be par- 
doned for refreshing the reader's memory by alluding to 
the lawsuit against tliis gentleman, which Miss Effie Car- 
stang brought and lost some years ago,) toward Caronde- 
let Adllage, squthvv'ard, and the United States fortifications 
by the river at that point, are also places of much interest 
to visit. Horse-cars run to the Gardens. 

But the great glory of Saint Louis — that which the 
visitor will nolens wlens see first and last — is the Mississip- 
pi River. It is not within our province here to describe 
that mighty stream, excepting as it is related to Saint 
Louis. They who approach by steamboat will have pre- 
viously become somewhat familiar with the swiftly-flow- 



LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 115 

ing, muddy waters, tlie flat-bottomed boats, wliich seem 
to be endowed with, almost ImmarL nervous constitution, 
so delicately are tbey strung and so often do tliey commit 
suicide, the lofty, ornamented, black smoke-pipes, wMcIl 
are almost an institution and a siglit by themselves, and 
last, but not least, the motley tlirongs who gather at the 
levees and fill the saloons. But let us suppose an arrival 
by land. Coming from the East, the tourist crosses the 
Mississippi from whatever point of Illinois Town his par- 
ticular railway may deposit him, on a ferry-boat so exceed- 
ingly primitive that he can hardly credit his senses. 
Steam, to be sure ; but he walks or rides upon the vessel 
direct from a muddy shore, from no dock or pier to speak 
of, and lands again at the Saint Louis levee in the same 
singular manner. He will remember the boast of the 
Western captain, who " wouldn't think of havin' a boat 
that couldn't run on the sweat of a water-pitcher," with 
astonishment that it was, after all, so nearly '' founded on 
fact." The levee is a sloping, muddy bank, lined on the 
one hand vnXh. most ancient-looking warehouses, and 
washed — rather cut away — by the rushmg river. Of this 
hostility of the river we shall see more, presently, at 
Alton. Along the edge, close up to the muddy shore, 
come the light draught steamboats in such multitude 
that, as far as the eye can follow the levee up or down, 
there is one continuous line of them with their singular 
high smoke-pipes. When these vessels are on their way, 
the smoke of the bituminous coal used in the West rolls 
up vrith a black solidity of volume that gives a very pic- 
turesque effect to the scene. 

A great annoyance to temperate travelers, at Saint Louis, 
as along the whole line of the Mississippi below the Yel- 
lowstone, 2000 miles up the jMissouri branch, from Saint 



116 LAKES, ElVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 

Louis, is tlie drinking-Tvater. Tlie waters of the river are 
sweet and delicious to the taste, and those accustomed to 
tlieni consider the imposition of any other water a depri- 
vation. But the Yellowstone River (see below, in sketch 
of Alton, etc.) brings down to the Missouri, and so to the 
main stream, below Alton, a yellow mud, which renders 
the waters here exceedingly unpromising to the eye, and 
for a while, to the taste. It is of some service, however, 
in destroying the native taste of the Mississippi itself at 
this point. When strangers are first subjected to the ne- 
cessity of drinking the Mississippi water — it being pumped 
up to a reservoir behind the city, filtered somewhat, and 
supplied for use — they, not singularly, decline a beverage 
which appears to be full of dirt, to taste of mud, and final- 
ly to have no effect whatever towards quenching thirst ; 
and to some it is productive of sickness. A week's famili- 
arity with it, however, will make it as delightful as a cer- 
tain sovereign syrup is said to be to children. 

THE MEETING OF THE WATERS AT ALTON. 

Since we have alluded to the savage propensities of 
the Father of Waters, let us ascend to the place where 
meet the two great branches. Here we think we may 
offer the tourist the grandest single Tiew of river sce- 
nery to be found in all the country. We may take some 
one of the numerous smaller steamboats plying between 
Saint Louis and Alton, and sail 20 miles against the 
current to that town. Our own visit was in the after- 
noon of a beautiful May day. We reached the point 
where the two streams meet and seek to mingle, just as 
the setting sun, surrounded but not hidden by clouds 
of sombre face and silver lining, was casting his last 
golden rays upon the water. It may not be the good for- 



LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 11 Y 

tune of every one to enjoy so fine a pliase of tlie sunlight ; 
but to stand upon tlie deck of your steamer, looking upon 
the one side at tlie placid Mississippi, clear and limpid, 
flowing beautifully toward tlie sea ; and on tlie other at 
the foaming Missouri, rushing down upon the channel of 
its fellow with a muddy, furious torrent that sweeps all 
before it, and destroys forever all traces of that gentle 
stream ; this is delight unbounded, and may be shared 
by all who journey over the Mississippi waters. Years 
ago, there stood upon the eastern bank, just at the con- 
fluence, the village of Chippewa, a place of some little 
population and business ; but the tremendous vehemence 
with which the Missouri cast itself upon the clayey 
bank proved too much for it to stand, and the land has 
gone down the river to seek the ocean, along with the 
other accretions from the north, and also the south. All 
along the line of our short sail we may behold the same pro- 
cess almost actually going on before us. The banks, soft 
and yielding, are losing on the one side, (and increasing 
on the other in a less proportion,) as the rapid current, 
knife-like, cuts off great slices, carrying down trees, fences, 
any thing that unwarily remains to withstand such a foe. 
It is a most singular and a most impressive sight. We 
do not wonder that the Indians selected for their title of 
the river a name, which, while it robs us of any solemnity 
with which the scene might inspire us, certainly conveys 
to the mind the character of the work done, and the re- 
sult — the Missouri is the " mud river.'* 

Alton is finely situated upon the eastern bank of the 
Mississippi, nearly 3 miles above the actual meeting of 
the w^aters. Apart from what political interest attaches 
to the town as the home and grave of Lovejoy, the Aboli- 
tionist martyr before the war, we hardly need to mention 



118 LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 

any tiling. The most noticeable object is tlie liigli, bard 
limestone bluff, upon wbicb part of the city stands. If, as 
bas been suggested, the powers that be sliould cut away 
some 200 acres of the point of land between Alton and 
tbe point wliere tbe Missouri empties, (according to the 
popular phraseology — ^it is really tbe Mississippi that emp- 
ties, as the visitor here will see at once,) the Missouri 
would hurl its raging torrent in vain against that magni- 
ficent bluff, and would be a little weakened in its on- 
slaughts on the shores below. Perhaps this will be done 
some time. The Yankee nation is fond of conquering 
nature, and this is certainly a very inviting point of at- 
tack. 

THE MISSOURI IRON REGION. 

Another trip from Saint Louis, in the opposite direction, 
takes us from the active to the silent forces of nature, in 
the famous Iron Region of the State of Missouri. In the 
East, a visitor would stare amazed at his host who should 
invite him to an excursion of 80 miles ; but in the West, 
distance is not counted among the trials of life, and a trip 
to Pilot Knob and its neighbors, from Saint Louis, is 
esteemed one of the greatest pleasures to which a cour- 
teous citizen can treat his guest. 

The iron mountains of Missouri, wonderful beyond cre- 
dibility were they not on a line of familiar travel, are 
situated at the south-western extremity of the Saint Louis 
and Iron Mountain Railway, 87 miles from the city. 
There are three of great importance and note : the Iron 
Mountain, the Pilot Knob, and the Shepherd Mountain, 
standing near together, and close by the site of Fort Pilot 
Knob, where the rebel Price, during the late war was ig- 
nominiously defeated. The railway hither passes a great 
number of block-houses, also erected for Union defense 



LAKES, RIVERS, A^T> MOTTIS^TAINS. 119 

during tlie war. There is also a very superior view af- 
forded of the Mississippi River for some 15 miles beyond 
Carondelet, as the railway follows the line of the river for 
that distance on the way of the iron region. 

The Iron Mountain par excellence is probably a solid 
mass of iron, 288 feet above the surrounding valleys, co- 
vering an area of 500 acres. Upon the surface is, where 
not interrupted by the works, a forest of oak-trees, thriving 
in a soil which is wholly composed of fragments of peroxide 
of iron, comminuted and coarse-mixed together. Excava- 
tion of the ore of this mountain was commenced in 1845, 
on the west side of Little Iron Mountain, a prolongation 
of the largei" hill. There is an artesian well at the moun- 
tain. It may safely be said that the quantity of iron 
upon this mountain that may be quarried, without need 
of mining, is inexhaustible. 

The Pilot Knob will interest a visitor more than the 
other, not merely because its iron is purer and more valu- 
able, but because of the appearance of the summit, giv- 
ing name to the mountain. It is 6 miles south of Iron 
Mountain, and is an isolated conical peak, covering • an 
area of 360 acres, and rising very steeply to the height of 
500 feet above its base, which is 537 feet above the rail- 
way level at Saint Louis. Towards the top the rock be- 
comes ferruginous, and ledges and loose blocks of great 
size of pure iron ore and mixed ore and rock cover the 
surface. The top is a rocky peak, 60 feet high, forming a 
craggy knob, from which the mountain is named. 

A third iron supply is found on Shepherd Mountain, a 
little over a mile south-west from the Knob. This is 600 
feet high, and covers an area of 800 acres. The iron ore is 
magnetic and specular, and is found in great purity upon 
the mountain. The tourist may add to his entertainment 



120 LAKES, RIVEES, AND MOUNTAIISrS. 

in looking upon these great natural wonders loj picturing 
to liimself tlieir inexliaustibllity, and tlie unlimited sup- 
plies from them, which will occupy the blast-furnaces 
which shall, as the West grows, begin to spring up in the 
nearest coal-districts. 

UP THE MISSISSIPPI TO SAINT PAUL. 

Saint Paul is best known as a healthful resort for con- 
sumptives. All the year round it is thronged with health- 
seekers. It is now universally conceded that for this class 
of unfortunates, no better resort can be found the world 
over. The dry and crystalline air has a wonderfully re- 
storative effect upon those whose lungs are in any way 
diseased. Even the cold winter air does not prove injuri 
ous to invalids. The State of Minnesota is proved by sta- 
tistics to be the healthiest in the Union, and there is not 
more than one locality on the face of the earth where the 
death-rate is so small. But we will refer readers, for more 
particulars upon this part of the subject, to the Guide to 
the North' West, a new edition of which has just been issued. 
We purpose in tliis article to speak of Minnesota as a re- 
sort for the pleasure tourist. 

When the tourist goes to Minnesota, he never fails to 
visit Saint Paul. This is the largest and most beautiful 
city in the State ; is at the head of na^i.gation upon the 
Mississippi, and is distant three days from Xew-Tork, or 
a little less by the all-rail route. 

The best route for the summer pleasure tourist is by rail 
to La Crosse, on the Mississippi, by way of the Chicago 
and Xorth-western, and Milwaukee and La Crosse roads, 
and thence by steamboat, 180 miles u^d the river to Saint 
Paul. If it is desired to ^dsit the beautiful city of Madison, 
Wisconsin, so famed for its natural beauty, which is de- 



LAKES, EIYEES, AND MOUXTAIXS. 121 

scribed elsewhere in this volume, tlie tourist will take the 
Prairie Da Cliien road at Watertqwn, and strike tlie Mis- 
sissippi at a point further down than by the other route. 
The fare from New- York, by either route, is $43. The 
tourist who visits Saint Louis and the magnificent scenery 
at its meeting the Missouri, (see Sai]S't Louis and Vicini- 
ty,) may combine that pleasure and this by taking steamer 
between Saint Louis or Alton and La Crosse. This plan 
will secure to the tourist the whole '' upper river," and 
just glimpse enough of the swollen flood below the meet- 
ing of the two great branches, to afford some conception 
of the whole ''lower river." 

M^e can not describe too enthusiastically the superb sail 
up the upper Mississippi. The scenery is very like that of 
the Hudson, but to our mind much finer. Thackeray 
called it the finest he had ever seen. After leaving the 
lively city of Winona, the boat glides into the waters of 
Lake Pepin, the bluffs about which are very grand. The 
stopping-places are Fountain City, Wabasha, Reed's Land- 
ing, Lake City, Prescott, Red Wing, and Hastings. Eight 
miles from Lake City, and opposite Fontunac, is the lively 
little village of Maiden Rock. A fine little steamer plies 
regularly between these places, affording visitors a fine 
opportunity to view the scenery of the lake, and especially 
the romantic bluff known as Maiden's Rock. At Prescott 
you can change to the boat that goes 50 miles up the beau- 
tiful Saint Croix, a detour which we recommend to visitors. 
The scenery up the Saint Croix is very beautiful. Stillwater 
is the largest place upon the river. 

On reaching Saint Paul, you will find pleasant quarters at 
the International Hotel, from which point you can enjoy 
delightful drives to Fort Snelling and the Falls of Minne- 
haha, to Lake Como and Minneapolis, and to White Boar 



122 LAKES, EIVEES, AXD MOUXTAIXS. 

Lake. Tlie latter is a superb spot for fisliing, and lias a 
sportsman's hotel. Tlie tourist will find a few days at 
Minneapolis (6 miles above Saint Paul) enjoyable. From 
here there are tri-weekly stages to Lake Minnetonka, a 
splendid lake, honored with a pretty steamer, and having 
two hotels. 

Cars run from Saint Paul to Saint Cloud, on the line of 
which are Big Lake and Clear Lake, great lakes for fisher- 
men. The latter has a summer hotel. There is a tri-weekly 
line of stages from Saint Cloud to Fort Abercrombie, on the 
Red River. The fare is $16. There is a daily stage line from 
Saint Cloud to Crow Wing, the home of the famous Indian 
chief, " Hole-in-the-day." From Crow Wing you can go by 
canoe to Vermilion Lake, or to Lake Superior. From Saint 
Paul there is a tri-weekly line of stages to Lake Superior. 
Fare, $15. 

For more detailed information about Minnesota and Da- 
cotah, we refer the tourist to the Livalid's and Tourisfs 
Guide to the North-West, compiled by the editor of this 
volume, and containing a complete map of the North-west- 
ern country. 

MADISON-ON-THE-LAKES-A WISCONSIN BUMMER 
EESOKT. 

Not only as a thriving State capital, but as a delightful 
place of summer resort, Madison deserves the attention 
of the tom-ist eager to find some pleasant novelty oflP the 
beaten track. The place is easily accessible by railway in 
six hours from Chicago. 

Every body who has been here from the East is loud in 
praises of this charming place. It lies on an undulating 
isthmus between two large lakes, and in the immediate 
vicinity of three others. The highest elevation is crowned 



LAKES, EIYERS, AXD MOUNTAINS. 123 

witli tlie Capitol building, a structure in the CorintMan 
style, only needing the contemplated dome to be tlie finest 
-State Capitol in the West. From the grounds that sur- 
round it the streets radiate down to the lakes, and a pecu- 
liarly insular effect is produced from the fact that almost 
every street terminates in a water front. The city is oth- 
erwise well built, many of the private residences evincing 
the cultivated taste of their proprietors. There is the 
usual supply of churches of the leading denominations. 
Grace Church (Episcopal) is the finest, and is a very credi- 
table Gothic building, of light-colored stone. The interior 
is well finished, and the body of the church is patiently 
waiting for a spire, and seems, without it, as incomplete as 
a sturdy, prosperous young man without a blushing bride. 
The Catholics have a church here also, spire-less, but oth- 
erwise a fine edifice. The City Hall and the University 
are other buildings, so far ahead of such structures as 
there are usually found in towns of the size of Madison, 
that they are worthy of special praise. 

THE LAKES. 

The large Lake Mendota, or Fourth Lake, as it is called, 
is some 15 miles in circumference, and is navigated by 
a little mite of a steamboat, called the City of Madison, 
which, at present, goes at the rate of a mile an hour, but 
expects soon to indulge in the luxury of new machinery, 
and of consequent increased speed. The sail is a pleasant 
one, the chief objective point being the State Lunatic Asy- 
lum, a huge structure built on a promontory extending 
into the lake. People who have faith in fish, say that 
large pickerel abound in the waters. We can vouch for 
perch actually as large as your little finger. The tradi- 



124 LAKES, RIYERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 

tional one big fisli, weigliing from eiglit to fifteen pounds, 
exists here as elsewliere, and lias been frequently cauglit 
— in piscine legendary lore. 

The first and second lakes are some distance from the 
city. Kearer by is Dead Lake, a small sheet . of water 
said to be gradually drying up. The third lake is the 
most beautiful of all, and from its surface the finest view 
of the city is obtained, making a panorama of striking 
beauty. A lively little steamboat, with an Indian name 
of forty-two syllables, plies across this lake to the Lake 
House. 

THE HOTELS. 

The Lake House is a spacious, commodious building, 
kept in first-rate style and at absurdly low rates of 
charge, by a well-known New-Yorker, Mr. Frodsham, for- 
merly of the Dusseldorf Gallery, and a magnate in art cir- 
cles. Like Charles Y., he has retired to this convent — a 
mighty comfortable one, by the way — and amid its home- 
like walls, decorated with rare engravings and paintings 
that attest the critical taste of the proprietor, he dispenses 
goodly cheer to those who come to him as boarders and 
leave him as friends. In home-feelingness and really re- 
fined luxury, this hotel is only surpassed by Mr. Moore's 
well-known hostelry at Trenton Falls. The visitors are 
chiefly from Saint Louis. 

In the village there is the Vilas House, a fairly comfort- 
able place. Its best feature is the superb view from the 
cupola, embracing the entire town, the lakes, and the sur- 
rounding country. Other hotels in the city are neat and 
inviting, so that Madison is more really attractive than 
many better known places. 



LAKES, EIYEES, AND MOUNTAINS. 125 

THE CAPITOL. 

Tlie Madisonians are proud of their Capitol. The 
Senate and Assembly rooms are models in every way, 
and the State authorities of Illinois will find it difficult to 
surpass them in the superb new structure they contem- 
plate building at Springfield. The Wisconsin Historical 
Society has a good collection of local curiosities and relics 
in a wing of the Capitol ; and the captured rebel flags, 
which are hung on inner walls, show that the Wisconsin 
soldiers were busy during the war. The Governor of the 
State, Mr. Fairchild, is a veteran who lost an arm at Get- 
tysburg. 

THE NEW-YORK CENTEAL RAILWAY. 

Setting aside the questions of monopoly, centralized 
power, etc., it certainly was a great benefit to the travel- 
ing public when, in 1853, one continuous railway from 
Albany and Troy to the western border of the State of 
New- York was formed. It is quite within the memory of 
persons of middle age, when journeys through the length 
of the Empire State were necessarily made by " packet" — 
a species of canal-boat — or by stage. Later came the 
separate railways, out of which, 14 in number, the New- 
York Central Railway Company was formed in 1853. 
The first link in this chain of railways was the road from 
Albany to Schenectady, completed in 1831. This was fol- 
lowed by the construction of a road from Schenectady to 
Utica, in 1835. In 1839, the work was pushed to the salt- 
marshes of Syracuse. Antecedent to this, in 1836, a short 
line had been constructed from Syracuse to Auburn. Tliis 
was then continued to Rochester, by way of Canandaigua, 
in 1840, making a continuous line of 233 miles. Only 68 
miles then remained to complete the railway to Buffalo. 



126 LAKES, EIYEESj AND MOUNTAINS. 

Twelve years, however, passed away before it was com- 
pleted, and not till 1852 was the entire line open to travel. 
The Hudson River Rail way having been completed during 
the XDre^ious year, the whole distance from New- York City 
to the shores of Lake Erie was then traversed by continu- 
ous railway. 

Fares. — The fare on the Central Railway is restricted 
by State law to 2 cents per mile — a regulation which the 
Company have repeatedly, but in vain, endeavored to have 
repealed. The traveler, therefore, may purchase his ticket 
between every two stations at almost the same total cost 
with a through ticket, save in times of ruinous competi- 
tion between this and the Erie road. There are no com- 
mutation or excursion tickets to be had on the Central 
Railway. The number of miles multiplied by 2, with 1 
or 2 cents added for tax, vnH invariably give the fare be- 
tween any two points between the eastern and western 
boundaries of the State, as well as, for the most part, be- 
tween New- York City and Albany. 

That portion of this great route with which at present 
we have to do, has two termini at the eastern end, one at 
Albany and the other at Troy, which meet, after 17 miles, 
at Schenectady. It then continues in one line to Syracuse, 
148 miles from Albany, when it is again a double route for 
the remainder of the way ; the lower line, via Auburn and 
Canandaigua, known as the " Auburn" or " Old Road," be- 
ing " looped up" to the other at Rochester, about midway 
between Syracuse and Buffalo. The upper route is called 
the "Direct Road," with a justness which the traveler by 
the " Old " way vnll cheerfully accede. The Erie Canal 
traverses the entire State nearly on the same line with the 
Central, and the Mohawk River is parallel nearly as far as 
Rome, 110 miles from Albany. The portion of country 



LAKES, BIVEES, AND MOUNTAINS. 127 

through, wliicli tlie railway passes possesses, moreover, 
much, historical interest. The " Five Nations " once occu- 
pied most of the country along the route ; and many lo- 
calities visible from the car-windows were the scenes of 
savage warfare and fierce conflicts during the Revolution. 

ATHENS ROAD. 

The new branch of the Central, which is sometimes 
termed '' the Athens Cut-off," is a route of some interest to 
the tourist. It commences at Athens, in Greene county, 
opposite Hudson, on the Hudson River, and runs in a di- 
rection north by west to Schenectady, saving a very little 
time and distance. 

Athens is at present a small and unimportant village of 
2000 inhabitants. A good deal of limestone is quarried 
near here, and three small lakes in the western part of the 
township give a pleasant variety to the interior. 

Coxsackie, 6 miles from Athens, is an old Dutch vil- 
lage, settled about 1652. 

Coeymans, 14 miles, boasts two falls, two caves, several 
mineral springs, a lake, a subterranean river, and a fossil 
elephant. The falls are in the village itself, and amount 
to 75 feet in all. Lawson's Lake is in the north-western 
part of the township. The caves belong to that large 
class of limestone ledges and hollows which characterize 
the eastern part (see Caves of Schoharie) of the State. 
The larger of these two extends 660 feet into a perpendi- 
cular ledge. The Feuri-Spruyt Kill, doubtless frightened at 
BO awful a cognomen, dives beneath its bed for a half-mile. 
The springs are impregnated with sulphate of magnesia. 
The elephant occurred 4 miles west of the river, on Mr. 
Shears' s farm. The other stations, as far as the crossino- 
of the Albany and Susquehanna Railway— namely, Beth- 
lehem, Feurabush, and New-Scotland — have their glory in 



128 LAKES, RIVERS, AXD MOUNTAINS. 

tlie same plienomena. Gfuilderland Centre and Central 
Junction are not important stations, and beyond tlie latter 
3 miles is Sclienectady. 

In tlie article entitled Along the Hudson we haYe al- 
ready alluded to Albany and Troy witlL as mucb. particu- 
larity, perhaps, as the tourist will desire. If he has come 
from the east or north to begin his journey with us, he has 
probably remained over night at the Delavan House, Stan- 
wix Hall, Congress Hall, or the American, in Albany, or 
the Troy House, in Troy ; if from the south, he has, per- 
haps, been enjoying the comforts of the most elegant 
steamboats on the face of the globe. Terms at the Dela- 
van and Congress, $4.50 per day ; at Stanwix Hall, (most 
convenient -for one in haste,) $3.50 ; the American, $2.50 
or $3 per day. 

Schenectady, 17 miles from Albany, 23 from Troy, is the 
point at which the railways from Albany and Troy meet, 
and the Saratoga route diverges. Schenectady is upon 
the right bank of the Mohawk River. It is one of- the 
oldest towns in the State, and is distinguished as the seat 
of Union College, founded in 1795. The buildings are dis- 
cernible from the right-hand vindows going west. The 
council-grounds of the Mohawks once formed the site of 
the present town. A trading-post was established by the 
Dutch as early as 1620. A massacre of the inhabitants by 
the French and Indians occurred here in 1690. In 1795, 
the town was made the headquarters of the Western Navi- 
gation Company, organized to navigate the Mohawk River 
to Oneida Lake. Schenectady was incorporated as a city 
in 1798. 

Leaving Schenectady, the road crosses the Mohawk 
River and the Erie Canal, upon a bridge nearly 1000 feet 
in length. 



LAKES, EIYEES, AND ]!krOUXTAIXS. 129 

At Hoffman's, 26 miles, (from Albany,) a ferrv was es- 
tablislied in 1790 by Hermanns Yedder, and was called 
Yedder's Ferry nntil 1835 ; it was tlien pnrcliased by Jolin 
Hoffman, whose name it has since borne. 

Tribes's Hill, 39 miles, is a place of some interest. Its 
name is derived from the fact that the Indians were accus- 
tomed to assemble on a mound here on important occa- 
sions, where they held their councils and listened to the 
eloquence of their chieftains. A suspension bridge crosses 
the Mohawk here, and near Schoharie Creek once stood 
Fort Hunter. In ITIO, several hundred of the Palatinates, 
who had been previously located on the Hudson by the 
bounty of Queen Anne, migrated to this neighborhood ; in 
1780, they were massacred by the son of Sir William John- 
son, in command of some Indians and Tories. 

Johnstown, 3 miles north of Fonda, which is 41 miles 
west of Albany, was incorporated in 1808 ; it lies on the 
southern border 'of Montgomery county. This place was 
once the residence of the distinguished Sir William John- 
son. This gentleman entered the wilderness as agent for 
his uncle, Sir Peter Warren, who had an extensive grant 
from Great Britain. He built a stone mansion here, sur- 
passing in cost and grandeur every dwelling in the valley 
of the Mohawk. By his tact he won the confidence of the 
Indians, assuming their dress and learning to speak their 
language, and entering heartily into all their wild sports. 
He became agent for Great Britain, and was of great serv- 
ice in settling disputes with the Indians. In 1759, at his 
call, 2000 Indian braves assembled, and were led by him 
to the head of Lake George, where he defeated the French 
under Dieskau. For this. Parliament voted him £5000, 
and the King conferred a baronetcy upon him. He died 
in 1774, having spent forty years in the wilderness. Men- 



tion of liim will be found also in the articles entitled Sa- 
KATOGA and Lake Champlain. 

Palatine Bridge, 55 miles, derives its name from tlie 
German Palatines wlio settled liere in 1713, and from the 
bridge which crosses the Mohawk and separates it from 
Canajoharie. Passengers take the stage here for Sharon 
Springs, a place of considerable resort during the summer 
season. (See Mii^^eral Spri:n;^gs of Xew-York.) The 
ride from Canajoharie to the springs, a distance of 14 
miles, is one of the most picturesque and beautiful to be 
found in this part of the country. 

Fort Plain, 58 miles, was the scene of one of the raids of 
the notorious Brandt, in 1780 ; when the women in the 
forts, their husbands being absent, clothed themselves in 
male attire and frightened the redskins away hj their 
brave appearance. 

At Saint Johnsville, 64 miles from Albany, 2^ to 3 hours' 
ride, is the first eating-station on the road, and the best in 
the State. 

Little Falls, 74 miles, is remarkable for a bold passage 
of the Mohawk River and Erie Canal through a wild and 
most picturesque defile. The scenery, embracing the river, 
rapids, and cascades, the locks and windings of the canal, 
the bridges, and the glimpses far away of the valley of the 
Mohawk, are especially beautiful. 

Richfield Springs, about 12 miles from Little Falls, is 
quite a pleasant resort in summer, near the head of Schuy- 
ler Lake. (See Mineral Springs of New- York.) 

Utica is a large, flourishing, and handsome town on the 
south side of the Mohawk River. The Erie Canal and the 
Central Railway pass through the centre of the city. It 
contains several handsome buildings, among which are 
the City Hall and State Lunatic Asylum. It is built tipou 



LAKES, PaYEES, AND MOUNTAINS. 131 

the site of old Fort Schuyler, and has now a population of 
25,000. Hotels : Bagg's, at the depot, and the National. 
Visitors to Trenton Falls take the Black River Railway- 
trains at this point, the distance to the Falls being about 
20 miles. Clinton, 8 miles south-west of Utica, accessible 
by horse-cars, is the seat of Hamilton College, incorporated 
in 1843. 

The next station of prominence is Rome, 109 miles, where 
diverges the Rome, Watertown, and Oswego Railway to 
Lake Ontario, northward. This i^lace was originally called 
Fort Stanwix, from a fort erected here in 1758. After the 
conquest of Canada it fell into decay, but was repaired dur- 
ing the Revolution. In 1777, General Saint Leger besieged 
it, but was compelled to raise the siege by the arrival of 
aid. This battle-mound lives only in history ; not a trace 
of it now remains in Rome. Here was also a mile of por- 
tage, which kept asunder the waters of the Mohawk and 
Wood Creek, and interrupted the navigation from Albany 
to the Lakes. The Indians call it De-o-wain-sta — or 
" carrying-place for canoes." Over this interval all mer- 
chandise to and from the distant West had to be conveyed 
by men and ox-teams. Then, by way of Wood Creek and 
Oneida Lake, it reached Lake Ontario. 

Verona, 117 miles, is a thriving village in the midst of a 
rich grazing country. A short distance from it is a mineral 
spring, said to possess the propeiities of the Harrowgate 
waters of England. 

From Verona to Manlius the railway, first approaching 
the chain of small inland lakes of the State, runs along a 
line parallel with, but some distance from, the southern 
bank of Oneida Lake. 

Oneida, 123 miles from Albany, is built upon a portion 
of the territory of the Oneida Indians. The word signifies 



132 LAKES, EI VERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 

'' the people of tlie stone." This tribe liad a tradition that 
a certain stone followed them in their wanderings, and at 
length rested upon a lofty hill, upon which the Indians 
afterward always held their councils. A boulder of gneiss, 
lying upon a farm at Stockbridge, was pointed, out as the 
object of their veneration, and a few years since was re- 
moved to the entrance of Utica Cemetery, where it still 
remains. The village is on Oneida Creek, and was incor- 
porated in 1848. On the banks of the creek, and about 3 
miles from the village, a society called the Oneida Com- 
munity is located upon a well-tilled farm of 390 acres. 
The association, which includes both sexes, was organized 
by John H. Noyes, who originated their peculiar religious 
and social tenets, in 1847. They form a general commu- 
nity, holding a common interest in all things. The rela- 
tion of the sexes is placed, not like that of civilized socie- 
ties, on the basis of law and constraint, neither on the 
opposite one of mere freedom, but on that of " inspiration." 
They are principally engaged in gardening, nursery busi- 
ness, milling, and the manufacture of steel-traps, sewing- 
silk, traveling-bags, cravats, and palm-leaf hats. The men 
are chiefly engaged upon the land, and the women in other 
profitable pursuits. They also pubhsh a weekly paper 
called the Circular, 

Chittenango is 133 miles west, and is the seat of the 
famous sulphur springs known by its name. (See article, 
Mineral Springs of New-York.) 

Manlius, 140 miles, is situated on the border of Limestone 
Creek, where a branch of the river falls over a precipice 100 
feet high, forming a fine cascade, and a pleasant summer 
resort. Near this place are sulphur and other mineral 
springs, but they have not yet attracted public attention. 



LAKES, EIYERS, AXD MOUNTAINS. 133 

In tlie vicinity are tliree peculiar ponds, called the Green 
Lakes, from the color of their waters. 

Eight miles further on, we come to the third chief sta- 
tion of the road, the seat of government of the third divi- 
sion of the Central Railway, the "central city" of the State — 
Syracuse. It is a favorite place for holding conventions, 
political, religious, and what not ; but not a place of much 
interest to the tourist. There is a depot, and numberless 
quasi-Testai\iT3ints, which is more than can be said for 
Utica. The passenger going west will be better fed at 
Rochester, 81 miles further by the Direct Road, or at Cay- 
uga, by the Auburn Road, 37 miles. The Syracuse House 
and Globe Hotel, however, are near the depot here, and 
time is commonly allowed for dinner. 

For account of the salt-works and springs on Onondaga 
Lake, near the city, see Mi:n"ERAL SPRi^q^GS of New-Yokk. 
If one have a fancy for imagining similarity of ^lojce and 
circumstance, he may think Onondaga the Great Salt 
Lake, and if not Syracuse, at least Oneida, the city of the 
Latter-Day Saints ; while in point of fact, that notorious 
imposture, the Book of Mormon itself, was pretended to 
have been dug from a hill-side at Manchester, Ontario 
county, not far west of this. 

Passengers for Oswego, and Lake Ontario at its east end, 
go north from Syracuse by the Syracuse and Oswego Rail- 
way, 35 miles. There is nothing of interest on the road 
until the lake city is reached. Oswego is described in 
Oxtario and the Saixt Lawrence. 

From Syracuse diverge the two branches called the 
Direct, and the Auburn or Old, Roads. The passenger 
going by Clyde, Lyons, and Palmyra will usually have to 
make no change of cars, and reaches Rochester an hour 
sooner than he who goes by Auburn and Geneva. The 



134 LAKES, RIVEES, Al^J) MOUNTAINS. 

former brancli is mucli tlie more agreeable to travelers in 
liaste, or who dislike frequent stops ; bnt there are very 
few points of interest along its route. The express sta- 
tions are Port Byron, Palmyra, and Lyons. 

DIRECT ROAD. 

Savannah, 100 miles from Albany, 32 from Syracuse, is 
named from the resemblance of 2000 acres of low, marshy 
land, which produces abundance of long, coarse grass, to 
the Spanish savannas. The region generally through this 
division is not very pleasing. Clyde, on Clyde River, 6 
miles beyond, is famous for the extensive fields of pepper- 
mint which are seen beside the railway. The plant is 
grown for making the essence, and is said to be one of the 
most remunerative crops that can be cultivated. About 
one third of all the peppermint grown in the United States 
is raised in this section. 

Fanaticism seems to have made its home in Western 
New- York, and considerably within this division. Whe- 
ther this was because of the original occupancy or not, we 
can not undertake to say ; but it is odd that Onondaga 
county, which extends from Manlius. to Jordan and beyond 
Skaneateles, should have been the residence of those (On- 
ondaga) Indians who were to the Iroquois what the tribe 
of Levi was to the children of Israel — they composed the 
priesthood, and were greatly venerated. The Onondagas 
had charge of the sacred council-fires around which war 
was resolved upon or peace decreed. A remnant of the 
ancient race of Onondagas still reside upon the Reserva- 
tion ; their number is about 400. When at Kewark, 13 
miles beyond Clyde, we are reminded that spirituahsm 
made its first " rap" near by, at Hydesville, a small place 
2 miles distant, where it was first heard by the noted " Fox 



LAKES, EIVEES, AND MOU^^TAINS. 135 

Family/' on the night of March 31st, 1849 ; and near Pal- 
myra, 7 miles further on, the ancestors of Joseph Smith, 
the Mormon, settled in 1819, when that famous impostor 
■was 14 years of age. In 1823, he began to have " visions," 
and in 1827, according to his own story, he dug up the 
" golden plates," which constitute the first portion of the 
Book of Mormon, as has been mentioned. The young man 
bore a very bad reputation among the residents of this 
vicinity. His book was printed in 1830, at the expense of 
a farmer of the region, Martin Harris, who mortgaged his 
farm therefor. The first " conference" was held at Fayette, 
June, 1830, with 30 dupes. Palmyra is also a favorite site 
for camp-meetings with the Free Methodists — a fragment 
of the Methodist Church who began some 10 or 20 years 
ago to follow a clergyman, B. T. Roberts, whose opposition 
to secret societies and other extreme views caused his con- 
demnation and removal from the Methodist Episcopal min- 
istry. The sect is small, principally existing hereabouts 
and in some parts of Ohio and Illinois, and is distinguished 
chiefly by extreme views of dress and discipline. Between 
Palmyra and Chili, at which latter place they have a col- 
lege just started, the " pilgrims" (their own word) have 
rather a monopoly of the summer camp-meetings, which 
one finds quite common. The Earnest Christian, published 
monthly at Rochester, is their organ. 

AUBURN (old) road. 

Upon the Old Road there are more places of interest to 
the tourist. The t^vvin lakes of Xew-York — Cayuga and 
Seneca — lie close upon and visible from the railway ; the 
beautiful towns of Auburn and Geneva belong to this part 
of our journey ; and indeed, we traverse here almost the 
whole inland lake region, which affords such a host of 



136 LAKES, KIVEES, AXD :>I0UXTAIX5. 

resorts to pleasure-seekers. We must refer the reader to 
our sketches of The Ixla^nD Lakes op Xett-Tork, for 
more detailed reference to these charming little sheets of 
water than we can give in this steam-view. 

The fourth station from Syracuse (17 miles) on the Old 
Eoad is Skaneateles — the point of departure for the lake of 
that name, the town being located 5 miles distant. This 
is about midway between Albany and Buffalo. 

Auburn is 174 miles from Albany and 26 from Syracuse. 
The American is the principal hotel, and very good, though 
not first-class. If not absolutely '"' the loveliest village of 
the plain,'' the reasons are two : the plain here is filled with 
the most beautiful villages, strangely similar, and Auburn 
is a city. The visitor will, perhaps, be at the trouble to 
see Seward Park, the home of our present national Secre- 
tary of State ; the Theological Seminary of the Presbyterian 
ChuiTh, headquarters of those presbyteries and synods of 
Central Xew-York which, '"' exscinded" in 1837 from the 
General Assembly, were the nucleus of the since great 
*' Xew School" branch of that church. The State Prison 
will be interesting to some tourists, possibly — more par- 
ticularly, if at all, for the Asylum for Insane Convicts, 
which, being the only one in the country, is well worthy 
a visit. 

The cemetery, called Fort Hill, (where the Cayuga chief 
Logan lies bmied,) is built upon an eminence which evi- 
dently belongs to that large class of mysterious mounds 
left by our earliest predecessors upon this continent. (See 
articles on Howe's Cave, Saixt Lons, and other sites.) 
This one is clearly believed to be a fortification of that 
ancient people of whom the present Indians can give us 
no account, being far out-dated by them. They doubtless 
belonged to the same general stock as the aborigines of 



LAKES, RIYERS, AND MOUXTAIXS. 137 

Mexico, the Aztecs; and tliey are usually called tlie 
Mound-Builders, or the Alleghans. This fort is supposed 
to have been built prior to the discovery of the continent 
by Columbus, and occupied by them for several centuries, 
until at last the Cayugas overpowered them. These latter 
called the place Osco, or Was Kough, and was their prin- 
cipal village until the whites came. 

Cayuga, 11 miles west of Auburn, is a good eating- 
station, at the foot of Cayuga Lake. The merits of this 
beautiful and favorite sheet of water are noticed elsewhere, 
as already mentioned. 

Seneca Falls, 5 miles further — 190 from Albany — is sit- 
uated upon the banks of the Seneca River, and the outlet 
of Seneca Lake. The river is about 14 miles long, and 
has here a fall of 50 feet, which furnishes considerable 
water-power. It was in this township that Mrs. Amelia 
Bloomer first introduced the dress reform, and the style of 
dress that takes her name. The scene of Bayard Taylor's 
Hannali Thurston is laid in this \i.cinity. 

Geneva, (Kanadesaga was the Indian name,) 7 miles be- 
yond Waterloo, and 10 from Seneca Falls, is perhaps the 
most beautiful village upon the line, having the special 
advantage of a lake view from the ridge or terrace, 100 
feet high, along which runs its principal residence avenue. 
Hobart College, one of the chief institutions of the Episco- 
pal Church, is located on this avenue, overlooking the 
breadth of Seneca Lake. The attractions of this most 
beautiful sheet of water may be found elsewhere in this vol- 
ume. The country about is fertile and picturesque. Several 
miles out is the " Banner Farm" of the State, belonging to 
Gideon Lee, Esq., of New- York City ; and a short distance 
from the village is another monument of the mound- 
builders. A mile and a half north-west of the village is a 



138 LAKES, RIYEPwS, AND MOUNTAINS. 

plot of groiind, called Old Castle. It contains an Indian 
burjing-ground, and in giving np tlie country, tlie Indians 
stipulated tliat tliese few sacred acres should never be 
plowed. This pledge lias not been violated. 

Hotels. — Tlie Mansion House, and the United States, 
§3.50 per day, 

Clifton is 64 miles from Syracuse, 40 from Rochester, 
and 212 from Albany. It is the site of the famous Clifton 
Springs, under wliicli title tliey are discussed elsewhere. 

Canandaigua is both on the Central and on the Erie 
Railway, 223 miles from Albany. The name is a corrup- 
tion of Gfan-a-dar-que, " a chosen spot," named by the 
Seneca Indians. The village is located on the outlet of 
Canandaigua Lake, and is the capital of Ontario county. 
It is equally distinguished for the picturesque beauty of 
its situation, and the elegance of its buildings. The ground 
descends gently from the upper part of the village toward 
the lake, of which it commands an extensive prospect. 
Population, about 5000. In a room of the court-house are 
suspended the portraits of many of the most distinguished 
pioneers of the country, and many important officers of the 
United States. Brigham Young, the Patriarch of Utah, 
was long a resident of Canandaigua ; and Fayette, where 
the first Mormon society was formed, in 1830, three years 
after the pretended unearthing of the golden plates, is in 
the adjoining county of Seneca. 

The city of Rochester is distant from Syracuse 81 miles 
by Direct Road, and 104 by the Auburn Road. Distances 
beyond this are always reckoned by the first route, over 
which the express trains travel. The best hotels at Ro- 
chester are : Osburn House, Main street ; Brackett House 
and Congress Hall, at the depot. The last of these charges 
$3.50 per day, and being of limited size, accommodates 



LAKES, EIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 139 

only transient boarders. Its table is tlie best in the city ; 
the otber houses excel in rooms and situation, and charge 
about §4 per day. The Clinton Hotel, on Exchange street, 
is a good second-class house, $3 per day. Horse-cars com- 
municate with both the distant houses, about a quarter- 
mile. The Erie Railway, or " Valley depot," is situated 
on the same street with the Clinton Hotel, more than 
half a mile from the Central depot; horse-cars passing 
the former run within one block of the latter. 

The " hons" of Rochester are the Falls of the Genesee, 
which may be found described under the proper title else- 
where. The city-cars run within a short distance of all 
three. After these, one wishes to visit the University (Bap- 
tist) of Rochester, on University avenue, nearly 2 miles out 
Main street. This elegant edifice contains what is called 
the finest geological collection in the country. The Ro- 
chester Theological (also Baptist) Seminary has a very un- 
promising building at present, but boasts the finest theolo- 
gical library save one (Union Seminary, New- York City) in 
the United States. Saint Mary's Hospital is a fine, light 
granite structure further out in the same direction. The 
Arcade, on Main street, containing the post-ofiice and a 
variety of stores, is worth a visit. All these places are 
reached by the city cars, as also Mount Hope Cemetery, a 
very beautiful place near the Genesee River, commanding 
from its tower a view of Lake Ontario. On the way 
tliither, after crossing the river, one should visit the fa- 
mous nurseries (EUwanger and Barry's, 500 acres, the 
chief) which are the greatest and finest in the world. 
Rochester is the great centre and mart of the Genesee 
Valley, and is the most beautiful city, beyond comparison, 
in the Empire State, both in its business and residence 
streets. Like the citizens of Providence, its thrifty people 



140 LAKES, EIVEES, AND MOUNTAINS. 

own tlie dwellings tliey occupy, and beautify tliem with 
delightful public spirit ; but for a stranger seeking a board- 
ing-house, there is not a more unpromising place imagin- 
able, unless hotel-life will content him. 

BUFFALO KOAD. 

Passing west of Rochester, on the main road which goes 
direct to Buffalo through Bergen and Batavia, we come 
upon Chili, 10 miles out, only interestijig to any one for 
the new Free Methodist school established there. 

Byron, 253 miles from Albany, is a small station, con- 
taining about 200 inhabitants. A sulphuric acid spring, 
popularly known as the Sour Spring, flows from a hill 
near the village. Gypsum is quarried in the village. 

Batavia and Buffalo. — See paragraphs in article on The 
EsiE Railway. 

The Charlotte branch extends from Rochester northward 
to Lake Ontario at the port of Charlotte (accented on the 
final syllable) 6 miles. The ride to the lake is a charming 
one, through the woods, with many a glimpse of the 
Genesee River, at whose mouth it ends ; and at the dock 
of the Ontario Steamboat Company a fine view of the lake 
may be had. For the trip on Ontario, see article, entitled 
LaivE OiNTTARio AND THE Saint LAWRENCE. Passenger s 
for Toronto from New- York come thus far by the Central 
Railway, and take steamboat Corinthian. Fare, about 
$2.50, including meals and state-rooms. Distance, about 
70 miles. Toronto may also be reached by the fine boats 
of the Ontario Steamboat (American Express Line) Com- 
pany, whose office is two doors from Congress Hall. 



LAKES, EIYEES, AND MOUNTAINS. 141 



FALLS ROAD. 

The other division from Rochester, extending on a more 
northerly line to Niagara Falls, has much more interest 
than the Buffalo Road to tourists. It is commonly called 
the '' Falls Road." 

Brockport, 17 miles from Rochester, 245 from Albany, is 
a pleasant village, where is one of the new Normal Schools 
of the State. 

Holley, 249 miles from Albany, is interesting for 2 sul- 
phur and several salt springs in the vicinity, from the lat- 
ter of which salt was formerly manufactured. 

Medina, 268 miles, is famous for its quarries of Medina 
sandstone, excellent for paving purposes. There are se- 
veral salt springs in the vicinity. 

Gasport, 278 miles, derives its name from a curious 
spring, which emits an inflammable hydro-carbon gas or 
vapor. An enterprising storekeeper has succeeded in con- 
verting this vapor to a useful purpose by lighting his 
store with it. The place contains a church, an academy, 
and 300 inhabitants. 

Lockport, 284 miles, is very well worthy a visit, both 
for its natural and its architectural attractions. Here are 
5 consecutive locks of the Erie Canal, which overcome 
an elevation of nearly 60 feet ; the surplus water aflbrd- 
ing a great power to the many manufactories of the vil- 
lage. In the construction of this work a solid limestone 
barrier was excavated from 25 to 30 feet in depth, 62 feet 
in width, and 15 feet for a tow-path. Water in any de- 
sirable quantity may be drawn from the Erie level, and 
returned to the canal, 60 feet below, without detriment to 
navigation. Fine limestone and sandstone flaggings and 
building materials are quarried here, affording employ- 
ment to several hundred men. One stratum of the lime- 



142 LAKES, ElYERS, AND M0I7l!n:AINS, 

Stone is filled with fossils, and, wlien polislied, presents a 
singular and beautiful appearance. It is used for orna- 
mental purposes. 

Suspension Bridge lias been already mentioned in the 
article on Niagaha Falls ; and witli that we come to the 
end of our journey, since we have nothing to note on the 
small branch of the railway which diverges at Lockport, 
running to Buffalo. 

THE WYOMING VALLEY. 

The Susquehanna River, which enters the Appalachian 
system of mountains at Towanda, Bradford cou.nty. Pa., 
by breaking the western chain, rolls the great volume 
of its waters over a rocky bed, through several ridges 
in rapid succession, and enters the Wyoming Valley by 
a marked mountain-pass above the mouth of Lackawannock 
Creek, called Lackawannock Gap ; thence flows in a serpen- 
tine course about 20 miles, and leaves the Valley through 
another opening of the same mountain, called Nanticoke 
Gap. These passages, which have width only sufficient 
to admit the river, are partly faced with perpendicular 
rocks, covered by a thick growth of pine and laurel-trees. 
The river is in most places about 200 yards wide, from 4 
to 20 feet deep, and moves with a very gentle current, ex- 
cept at the rapids, or when swelled with rain or melted 
snows. Xear the centre of the valley it has a rapid, called 
the Wyoming Falls, and another at the lower gap, de- 
signated as the Nanticoke Falls. Several tributary streams 
fall into it on each side, after traversing rocky passes, form- 
ing beautiful cascades as they descend to the plain. From 
the north-west are Toby's Creek, Moses's Creek, and Island 
Run; from the south-east ISIill Creek, Laurel Run, Solo- 
mon's Creek, Nanticoke Creek; all affording excellent 



LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 143 

mill-sites and abounding with fisli, chiefly the speckled 
trout. 

The particular Valley of Wyoming is a continuation of 
that of the Lackawannock, which taken together have an ex- 
tent of 32 miles, by a mean breadth of 2| miles. Dr. Silliman 
(the elder) has thus described the Valley : " Its form is that 
of a very long oval or ellipsis. It is bounded by grand 
mountain barriers, and watered by a noble river and its 
tributaries. The first glance of a stranger entering it at 
either end, or crossing the mountain ridges which divide 
it (like the Happy Valley of Abyssinia) from the rest of 
the world, fills him with peculiar pleasure, produced by a 
fine landscape, containing richness, beauty, and grandeur. 
From Prospect Hill, on the rocky summit of the eastern 
barrier, and from Ross Hill, on the west, the Valley of 
"Wyoming is seen in one view, as a charming whole, and 
its lofty and well-defined boundaries exclude more distant 
objects from mingling in the scene. Few landscapes that 
I have beheld can vie mth the Valley of Wyoming." 

In story, Wyoming is not less rich than in natural 
beauty and mineral treasure. (For the mineral wealth of 
this mountain valley is as remarkable as its natural attrac- 
tions. Iron and coal abound. The whole region is one an- 
thracite coal-field, in depths of 3 to 27 feet.) Not only did 
the aborigines whom our forefathers knew make this 
a favorite ground, but it was beloved by the race long an- 
terior to them, whose unexplained monuments alone re- 
main to us. One of the few of these now existing at all is 
a defensive mound or rampart in Kingston township, on a 
level plain upon the north side of Toby's Creek, about 150 
feet from the bank and a half-mile from the confluence 
with the Susquehanna. When the Europeans first came 
to Wyoming, this plain was covered with a primitive 



144 LAKES, EIVERS5 AND MOUNTAINS. 

forest, cliiefly oak and yellow pine ; and tlie trees on tlie 
rampart and in the trench were as large as those in any 
other part of the valley ; one great oak particularly, upon 
being cut down, was ascertained to have flourished 700 
years. The Indians had no traditions concerning these 
fortifications, nor any knowledge of their use. 

The terrible Battle of Wyoming, to which, alas ! most 
of us are indebted chiefly for our familiarity with the name 
of this beautiful tract, and which has been so often a fruit- 
ful theme for pen and pencil, occurred July 3d, 1778. The 
colonial settlers, who had previously been at variance on 
account of being interested in charters from different au- 
thorities, had, at the breaking out of the Revolution, united 
in an effort to form a home-guard for self-protection. Two 
companies thus formed were, however, ordered to join 
General Washington, and a third, imperfectly organized 
and equipped, in 1778, was unequal to the terrible need 
that soon arose. A body of 400 British and 700 Indians, 
chiefly Senecas, under Colonel John Butler, entered the 
Yalley June 30th, 1778 ; and the inhabitants having taken 
refuge in Fort Forty, (so called from the number in one of 
the bands of settlers, those from Connecticut,) a feeble 
force of 300 men, (commanded by Colonel Zebulon Butler, 
a continental ofl3.cer,) gave battle on the 3d of July, and 
lost. Then followed the horrid massacre which, although 
it is now certain that the Indian Brant did not participate 
in it, and that the whole affair has been exaggerated, has 
had few parallels in American history until the era of se- 
cession. The whole number of sufferers is put down in 
Dana's Cydopcedia at 300. Few of the ill-fated people es- 
caped. Prisoners were grouped around large stones, and 
were murdered with the tomahawk, amid yells and incan- 
tations of fiendish triumph. One of these stones of in- 



LAKES, EIYERS, AXD jMOU:N^TAINS. 145 

liiiman sacrifice may yet be seen in tlie valley. It is 
called Queen Esther's Rock, from tlie lialf-breed Indian 
woman wlio tliere avenged lier son's deatli by tomahawk- 
ing 14 soldiers, and lies near the old river-bank, some 3 
miles above Fort Forty. Tlie village of Wilkesbarre was 
burnt at this time, and its inhabitants were either killed, 
taken prisoners, or scattered in the surrounding forests. 
The site of Fort Forty is across the river from Wilkes- 
barre, past the opposite village of Kingston, and nearly 
west of Troy, 4| miles distant. At this spot, where the 
slain were buried, there now stands a monument comme- 
morative of the great disaster. It is an obelisk 62|- feet- 
high, made of granite blocks hewn in the neighborhood. 
The names of those who fell, and of those who were in the- 
battle and survived, are engraved upon marble tablets set 
in the base of the monument. This praiseworthy work- 
was done by the exertions of the ladies of Wyoming. 

Kanticoke and West-Nanticoke are little coal-villages- 
at the southern extremity of the Wyoming Yalley, 8 mileS' 
by rail from Wilkesbarre, where, as we have already inti- 
mated, occur some of the boldest passages of the scenery 
of the Susquehanna. A beautiful view of the Wyoming- is 
seen looking northward from the hills on the east side of 
the river near Xanticoke ; and the scenes below, from the 
banks of the river and the canal, are most varied and de- 
lightful. The coal-mines of this neighborhood may easily 
be penetrated, and v\utli ample remuneration for the ven- 
ture. 

Jessup's is a very cozy, lone inn, upon the west shore; 2 
or 3 miles below Nanticoke, from whence are seen striking 
pictures of the river and its bold mountain banks both 
above and below ; the hills in all this vicinity are impres- 
sively bold and lofty, making the comparatively narrow 



146 LAKES, EIYEES, AND MOUNTAINS. 

cliannel of the river seem yet narrower. Shicksliinny and 
Wapwallopen are little places yet below, in the midst 
of a rugged hill and valley region. 

The route to Wyoming Valley from New- York is by the 
jSTew-Jersey Central Railway to Hampton Junction, 59 
miles ; thence by the Delaware, Lackawanna, and Western, 
^83 miles, to Scranton; and thence by the Lackawanna 
•and Bloomsbury Railway, 17 miles, to Kingston, opposite 
Wilkesbarre, which is the headquarters of the valley dis- 
'trict. 

The route from Philadelphia is by the North Pennsyl- 
vania Railway to Bethlehem, and thence by the Lehigh 
Yalley and Lehigh and Susquehanna Railways to Wilkes- 
barre. The Wyoming Valley Hotel is one of the best in 
4he State, with ample accommodations for 250 guests. 
The town is reached by stage, one mile from the railway 
-depot. It is regularly laid off in wide, well-shaded streets, 
with a public square and a court-house near the centre. It 
'Contains several handsome church edifices, and a popu- 
lation of about 7000. Among its principal attractions for 
"tourists are Prospect Rock, which commands a fine view 
-of the valley, Battle Monument, Harvey's Lake, etc. 



THE HIGHLANDS OF IfEW-JERSET. 



THE MOEEIS AND ESSEX EAILWAY, 
There can be no more pleasing region for a suburban 
smnmer residence for New-Yorkers than the line of the 
Morris and Essex Railway, in the State of New-Jersey. 
Within the past few years, exiled tax-payers have begun 
to wake up to the charms of Morris and Essex counties in 



LAKES, EIYERS, AND MOUNT AIXS. 147 

the '' oiit-of-tlie- world " State, and now, wliere tliere used 
to be but two stopping-stations, tliere are upward of a 
dozen mtliin 20 miles of the city. Recently, too, tlie in- 
creased facilities wMcL. the extension of the Morris and 
Essex Railway to Easton have offered to commerce, have 
made the route somewhat widely known as a new and 
most direct avenue to the West. The whole line of the 
railway, as far as Chatham (26 miles) at least, is one con- 
tinued garden, such as one sees on several of the roads 
leading through the suburbs of Boston. The laying of a 
new grade and a doable track, with the inconvenient in- 
crease of business, has retarded certain improvements 
which summer tourists will miss ; but the region opened 
by the road is too attractive ever to lose the prestige which 
it has now among some of its frequenters. 

Morristown, now a city, 32 miles, the capital of Morris 
county, is splendidly situated on the Whippany River, 
It is noteworthy as having been the headquarters of the 
American army on two occasions. The house occupied by 
General Washington is still visible from the railway. 
The town contains a fine public square, court-house, and 
several churches. Population, 4000. Speedwell Lake lies 
in the near vicinity of the hotels. At Chester, 12 miles by 
stage, (until a branch railway is completed,) summer 
board may be found at moderate prices at the Young La- 
dies' Institute, Miss Megie, principal. This is in the midst 
of a very pleasant, quiet region, which affords a delight- 
ful retreat for persons tired of the noisier places. 

Dover, 44 miles, fare $1.45, is headquarters for persons 
going to the lakes and to Schooley's Mountain. Tlie 
Mansion House, by I. B. Jolley, is the best hotel in the 
county, open all the year round, with rooms for nearly 100 
guests. The excellent livery-stable of Mr. Jolley is in 



148 LAKES, RIVERS, Al^B M0UNTAI:N-S. 

constant activity tlirougli tlie summer season, as most 
parties prefer to leave the railway at Dover and seek the 
watering-places by stage or carriage from JoUey's. The 
Stickle House, W. Jones, proprietor, can accommodate 50 
persons. Distances from Dover as follows : to Schooley's 
Mountain, 20 miles ; to Lake Hopatcong, (Brookland 
Pond,) 6 miles ; Long Pond, 10 miles ; Green Pond, 30 
miles ; Seneca wana (Budd's) Lake, 7 miles. The remain- 
ing lake of the Highlands of New-Jersey, Greenwood, is 
mentioned in the article on The Erie Railway ; it is not 
usually included in the tour from Dover. 

BUDD'S (SEIO:CAWANA) LAKE. 
Lake Senecawana, commonly called Budd's Lake, is 2 
miles from Stanhope, on the Morris and Essex Railway, 54 
miles from New- York City. Stages run from all trains 
during the summer to Forest Grove House, on a hill di- 
rectly in front of the lake. Passengers also come from 
Dover as already stated. The entire circumference of 
Senecawana — it is quite circular — ^is not more than 3^ 
miles, and its whole surface can be distinctly seen from 
the balcony of the hotel. One is charmed at first sight. 
The white, clear water, the margin of which is lined on 
every side with dense foliage ; the sloping hill and culti- 
vated fields, teeming, a little later in the season than this, 
(May,) with rich cereals, together with the mountains ap- 
pearing in the distance, present a ^dew picturesque and 
unique, of which the eye never tires. Fishing is the com- 
mon pastime. The piscatory sportsman is not satisfied 
with his finny game unless he bring home some heavy 
pickerel. This lake, occupying one of the healthiest locali- 
ties of the Highlands, is a favorite resort of the ladies, and 
.ought to be called the Ladies' Lake. It is so easy of ac- 



LAKES, EIVERS, AXD MOUNTAINS. 149 

cess, retired, quiet, neat, and sure of good accommodations, 
they always feel at home. They are not afraid to sail, or 
row, or ride at anchor, as their boat is always in sight ; 
and if unsuccessful in angling, they seldom fail to secure 
a quantity of the white, fragrant lilies which grow near 
the shore, and are constantly in bloom. 

The hotel, kept by Messrs. J. M. Sharp & Co., is one 
well-known in select metropolitan circles, and is always 
full of excellent society. There are rooms for about 
300 guests. Terms, $3 per day, $15 to $21 per week. 
Telegraph stations at Stanhope and Dover. 

LAKE HOPATCO^a, (BSOOKLAHI) POND.) 

Lake Hopatcong is 6 miles south from Senecawana, 
(Budd's Lake,) and 4 from Drakesville, a station on the 
Morris and Essex Eailway. Stages from this station and 
from Dover, 6 miles, convey passengers to the hotel, the 
Lake Hopatcong House. Mr. Riker, proprietor, can find 
room for some 75 guests ; but the accommodations at this 
lake are decidedly inferior to those elsewhere in the High- 
lands, while the attractions of the lake itself are much 
greater. There is no telegraph station nearer than Dover, 
6 miles. The house has usually a large and fashionable 
patronage during the summer, including a number of the 
most aristocratic families of New- York City. Mr. August 
Belmont has spent a number' of summers here. The terms 
for this, as well as for the other houses in this region, will 
not vary far from those given for Senecawana — $3 per day, 
and $15 to $21 per week. 

The Indian name of this lake, Hopatcong, according to 
George Copway, signifies " Stone Water," or " Stone over 
Water." It was probably given to it on account of an 
ancient ridge here, which is a regular causeway of stone. 



150 LAKES, RITEES, AXD ITOUNTAIXS. 

running from an island neaiiv across to tlie sliore, a dis- 
tance of about a quarter of a mile. It was, no doubt, 
made by tlie Indians, and was a work of great labor. The 
water is now a little above it, occasioned by the raising of 
the lake for tlie Morris and Essex Canal, wMch. is supplied 
by a feeder from the Hopatcong outlet. On the opposite 
shore are, or used to be, found great numbers of Indian 
arrows, axes, and broken jars ; and appearances indicate 
it was the site of an Indian village. The more familiar 
name applied to the lake by the country people round 
about is Brookland Pond ; and the chances are, that a visi- 
tor in the somewhat primitive region close around the 
lake, inquiring for '' Lake HoxDatcong," would find that it 
had never been heard of. Among the children of civiliza- 
tion, however, the local title is ignored for the Indian one. 
The lake is usually said to be 9 miles in length, though, 
measured in a straight line, it is not more than 5| miles. 
We can hardly speak of direct length to water that 
abounds in islands and has its coves and bights whose in- 
dentations are terminated by perpendicular clifis or exten- 
sive mountain slo^Des. The scenery here, unlike that of 
Budd's Lake, is ever changing with your change of posi- 
tion. The shore, little cultivated, is for the most part a 
forest, whose deciduous foliage, interspersed with a variety 
of evergreens, presents every shade of green from the 
lightest salix to the darkest 'cedar. The surface of the 
lake is 720 feet above the Hudson at Xew-York, and 660 
feet above the Delaware at Easton. A steamboat crosses 
the lake several times a day in the service of the canal. 
There are all manner of recreations possible here, the 
chief being fishing : pickerel, perch, catfish, eels, and sal- 
mon-trout are the i)rincipal ones caught. Two islands of 
considerable note lie over aofainst each other — Canfield 



LAKES, EIYERS, AND MOUNTAIN'S. 151 

and Halsey — the one near the head and tlie other near the 
foot of the lake. Canfield Island has a fine garden upon 
it ; the other still maintains its primeval state, and is the 
favorite picnicking ground for excursionists. 

From Southard's Peak, a few yards east of the hotel, 
you have a fine view of the surrounding country ; on the 
west is the Delaware Water Gap, and on the east the 
Bloomfield Mountains. 



SCHOOLEY'S MOUlfTAIN. 

Schooley's Mountain, the most famous resort in the 
Highlands, is a ridge of considerable extent, Budd's Lake 
being upon one part of its summit. There are two hotels, 
both well known and well kept— the Belmont House, D. 
A. Crowell, proprietor, 300 guests, and the Heath House, 
same capacity. Telegraph at the Belmont. The height 
of the mountain is about 1100 feet above the sea. Springs, 
containing muriate of soda, of lime, and of magnesia, sul- 
phate of lime, carbonate of magnesia, and silex, and car- 
bonated oxide of iron, are near its summit. The drives in 
the region are very fine indeed, and, for citizens of the me- 
tropolis, there is no more delightful resort within a half- 
day's journey. The society at the mountain is always ex- 
cellent. Terms as at the lakes. 

Tourists from New- York cdme by the Morris and Essex 
Railway, 62 miles to Hackettstown, and thence 2|- miles 
by stage. The ride from Hover, 20 miles, is, of course, 
more wearisome, but attractive in its scenery. There is 
no stage to or from Dover. Visitors from the south pro- 
ceed ma Philadelphia and New-Brunswick, connecting 
with the New-Jersey Central Railway at Bound Brook, 
and from this line as above. 



152 LAKES, EIVERS, AXD MOUNTAINS. 

THE VALLEY OE THE NATJGATTJCK. 

Travelers going north, and east from New-Tork City 
may find a very beautiful detour from the regular Connec- 
ticut Valley route, in tlie railway whicli separates from 
the latter at Bridgeport, and pursues the direct northerly 
course of a small but beautiful river, called the Xaugatuck. 
The Housatonic Eailway, taking name from the stream 
which it follows, also commences at Bridgeport, having its 
terminus at Pittsfield, Mass., 110 miles distant. The Nau- 
gatuck Railway follows the course of its river likewise, 
taking advantage of the passes, which it secures, through 
and between the hills, and ends at Winsted, 62 miles. 
Bridgeport is reached from Xew-York City by steamboat, 
from Pier 35, East River, at 12 M., or by railway, from 27th 
Street, at 8 a.m. and 3 p.m. The morning train affords 
the opportunity to see the country, and return to Bridge- 
port in the afternoon, arriving at 5.30 o'clock, or to stop 
over night, and in the morning go on by stage from Win- 
sted to Canaan, (Housatonic Railway,) Ct., whence by 
rail to Pittsfield, at 5.35 p.m. Fare, New-York to Bridge- 
port, $1.70 ; Bridgeport to Vv^insted, §2.05 ; stage fare, 15 
miles, $1.50 ; Canaan to Pittsfield, about $1.25. Pittsfield 
is . 51 miles from Springfield, on the Boston and Albany 
(V^^estern) Railway. 

The Housatonic and Xaugatuck Rivers are important 
mill-streams which give life and acti^uty to a very large 
number of factories in all departments of mechanical labor. 
Such are the Wheeler & Wilson Sewing-Machine facto- 
ries, at Bridgeport; the brass and copper-mills, and the 
clock-shops, of Phelps, Dodge and Company, at Ansonia ; 
the pin factories, at Waterbury ; the 25 or 30 paper-mills, 
in Lee, etc. The Housatonic trip is made the subject of a 
separate sketch. 



LAKES, RIYEFvS, AND MOUNTAINS. 153 

Tlie Naugatuck Kiver rises within the confines of Con- 
necticut, in that mountainous corner which composes 
Litchfield county. The country, for the first few miles of 
its progress, and behind it, is not very inciting to the tra- 
veler ; but at the station called Litchfield, where the rail- 
way first meets the river on the way to Bridgex3ort, the 
scenery becomes very pleasing. Litchfield, lying 2 or 3 
miles west of the station, is one of the most beautiful of 
Connecticut inland villages. It is the county-seat, and 
was the birth-place of Henry Ward Beecher. (See Hou- 
SATONic Valley sketch.) Its original Indian name was 
Bantam — one of the few cases where the whites have im- 
proved upon the aboriginal title. The village is an active, 
pleasant place, occupying chiefly two broad avenues at 
right angles, and boasting, like most New-England towns, 
a fine park or " green." In the immediate vicinity, Mount 
Tom (not the companion of Holyoke) rises 700 feet, and 
one of the largest lakes in the State aifords good fishing 
and rowing. 

Before we betake ourselves to the river-rail route, let 
us stop a moment at Winsted, the northern terminus of 
the Naugatuck Railway. It hardly boasts special attrac- 
tions. The railway terminus is at the western end of the 
town, in what is called West-Winsted. On the summit of 
the hill, behind the Beardsley House, (principal hotel, 
where one going to Canaan will stay over night ; terms, 
$2.50 or $3 per day,) there is a charming lake of clear 
and deep waters. The surrounding country does not 
tempt others than disciples of Izaak Walton. 

Below Litchfield, and quite continuously to Derby, the 
railway traverses the banks of the river, amid the most ro- 
mantic scenery. Cramped into a narrower channel by the 
frowning hills which shut it in on every side, and dispute 



154 LAKES, EIYEES, AND MOUXTAIXS. 

its passage with a Yankee pertinacity, the Naugatuck foams 
and leaps and meanders in its zeal to reach the open ba- 
sin below. There can be no more charming scenery than 
that here afforded — where a railway, not important enough 
to undertake the remo^i.ng of mountains and the filling 
up of valleys, simply affords us an opportunity to watch 
all along a rapid ride the changing aspects of river and 
woodland scenery. 

Waterbury marks the half of our ride, about 30 miles 
from either terminus. There is absolutely nothing natu- 
ral to see here, but a great deal of industry. Most of the 
15,000 inhabitants are in one way or another connected 
with the many manufactories in the city. Waterbury is 
the only city in the State, west of Xew-Haven, except 
Bridgeport. Hotels — Adams Hotel, (near the depot, second- 
class,) and Scovill House, a quarter-mile distant. The Pro- 
vidence, Hartford, and Fishkill Eailway has had its ter- 
minus here for some years, but hopes ultimately to reach 
the Hudson Eiver at Fishkill, and cross it by a now pro- 
spective bridge. (See page 27.) 

The Xaugatuck River falls into the Housatonic at 
Derby, 18 miles below Waterbury, 14 from Bridgeport. 
The main river here swells to nearly a mile in width, and 
presents a very beautiful view. Contracts have been 
made for a stone bridge across the Xaugatuck at the nar- 
rows, in Derby. Its complete cost will be about §20,000. 
The Housatonic Railway does not come within 5 or 6 miles 
of the river which names it, at this point. Beyond this, 
the Xaugatuck Railway follows the shore of the Housa- 
tonic (which is navigable up to Derby from the Soxmd) 
until it crosses at Stratford ; from there to Bridgeport the 
cars run upon the track of the Xew-York and Xew-Haven 
Company, and our especial attention ceases. 



LAKES, EIYERS, AND iMIOUNTAIXS. loo 

WOODSTOCK, CT. 

Woodstock is situated in \yindliani county, in tlie nortli- 
eastern corner of tlie State of Connecticut, surrounded by 
a country of great beauty, embracing witliin its reacli tlie 
varied attractions of lake and woodland, liill and dale, 
beautiful drives, etc. It is really one of tlie most deliglit- 
ful retreats in New-England. Overlooking a valley 
stretcliing for 30 miles north, and south, tlie view from 
the piazza of the hotel is one of exquisite loveliness. A 
mile away is Woodstock Lake, skirted by primeval woods 
and abounding in fish. Henry Ward Beecher, our au- 
thority for Connecticut scenery, says : '' Its like I do not 
know anywhere. It is a miniature Mount Holyoke ; and 
its prospect, the Connecticut Valley in miniature." 

Hotel. — Elmwood Hall, Mr. Amasa Chandler, proprie- 
tor, is open from June 15th to the close of the season. It 
has a fine " common" in front of the house, and a park on 
the opposite side of the street. Visitors to tliis place leave 
the Norwich and Worcester Railway at Putnam. Car- 
riages from the hotel wait at every train, and a mail-coach 
leaves Putnam for Woodstock, daily, at 5 o'clock p.:m. 

MANSFIELD AND MEMPHEEMAGOG. 

Mount Mansfield, the loftiest (4469 feet) of the Green 
Hills, is 15 miles from Waterbury Station. It is easily 
reached from the village of Underhill Centre on the north, 
or yet more easily from the pleasant village of Stowe on 
the south, both of which points may be reached from the 
Vermont Central road — Underhill from Jonesville Sta- 
tion, and Stowe from Waterbury. Stages leave Water- 
bury for Stowe (10 miles) on arrival of trains. Mansfield 
is 20 miles from Burlington. Stowe is a pretty country 
village, l}ing in the valley between Mansfield and Wor- 



156 LAKES, HIYEE5, AND M0U2s TAINS. 

cester Mountains, and one of tlie loveliest possible spots for 
a summer residence among the mountains. The walks 
and drives in the vicinity are delightful. Sunset BjU, east 
of the hotel, commands a fine ^dew of Mansfield as well as 
the surrounding country. The principal drives are: to 
Mount Mansfield, 8 miles ; Smuggler's Xotch, 8 miles — 
one of the most wild and romantic places in the country ; 
Bingham's Falls, 5 miles ; ]Moss Glen Falls, 3^ miles ; 
Gold Brook, 3 miles ; West Hill, 2 miles ; Morrisville Falls, 
8 miles ; Johnson Falls, 12 miles ; Xebraska, 6 miles. The 
chief hotel at St owe is the Mount Mansfield House, kept by 
Mr. Leonard Love. Rooms for 400 guests ; billiard-tables, 
bowling-alley, and a fine livery stable. The summit of the 
mountain is 8 miles distant, as stated above ; but the hotel 
accommodations here make Stowe the favorite point of de- 
parture. The Summit House, on the top of Mansfield, can 
accommodate 100 guests. The terms at each house (same 
proprietors) are §3.50 per day. 

Before reaching the village of Stowe, or from the ob- 
servatory of the Mansfield Hotel, the tourist can get a good 
view of Mount Mansfield. The outline of the summit 
resembles human features. Old Mansfield, as is imagined, 
is in a reclining posture, his face turned upward. The 
north peak represents the chin, the middle the nose, and 
the southern the forehead. This mountain is the highest 
in Vermont, and from it can be seen elevations in every 
county in the State. The chin is 4348 feet above the sea, 
3800 feet above the village of Stowe, and 340 above the 
nose. The nose is 160 feet above the forehead. 

The view from the summit is very extensive. The 
Winooski is hardly seen, except here and there, resem- 
bling the smallest possible rivulet. On either hand, as 
far as you can see, the eye rests upon hundreds of mountain 



LAKES, RIYEES, A2sT) MOUJS'TAi:S"S. 157 

peaks, stretcliing away into tlie thick, dark liaze whicli 
surrounds them. West lies the great valley of the Cham- 
plain, and still beyond, 16 miles distant, is the lake itself, 
the whole length of which comes under the eye. A few 
miles from its western shore rise the lofty peaks of the 
famous Adirondacks. North is the wide-spread valley of 
the Saint Lawrence ; and in favorable weather, with the 
aid of the glass, steamers can be seen upon its waters. 
Montreal Mountain, with the city (visible only in the best 
weather) at its base, Jay Peak, and Owl's Head, the latter 
rising from the west bank of Lake Memphremagog, form 
prominent features in the landscape. In the east, Fran- 
conia range and the White Mountains, 60 miles distant, 
limit the vision, while the intervening space is covered 
with numberless hills and mountains. South can be seen 
Camel's Hump, Killington Peak, and Ascutney. 

The Yalley and River of Winooski. — The Winooski 
traverses almost the entire breadth of Northern Vermont. 
Rising in Caledonia county, its course is generally v/est- 
ward to Lake Champlain, 40 miles from which it passes 
through Llontpelier. Some of its valley passages are 
scenes of great pastoral beauty, strongly contrasted with 
high mountain surroundings, the singularly-formed peak 
of Camel's Hump continually showing itself, sometimes 
barely peeping over intervening ranges, and again — as 
near the middle of the valley stretch — coming into full 
display. In places, the Winooski is a wild, turbulent 
water, dashing over stern precipices and through rugged 
defiles. It is found in this rough mood j ust above the vil- 
lage of Winooski, a few miles from Burlington, where the 
waters rush in rapid and cascade through a ravine 100 
feet deep. Tliis picture is favorably seen from the railway. 
Passing on into the open valley lands which succeed. 



158 LAKES, EIVEES, AND MOUNTAINS. 

Mount Camers Hump comes finely into view, as tlie cen- 
tral and crowning point of one of the sweetest pictures of 
all tMs region. This is, next to Mansfield, the highest 
of all the Green Mountain peaks, having an elevation of 
4188 feet. It may be ascended, without much difficulty, 
from any side, though the usual point of leaving the rail- 
way is at Ridley's, going south from which one can reach 
the summit of Camel's Hump, 6 miles distant, by private 
teams. A good carriage-road has been constructed 3 miles 
up the mountain, and the remainder of the way is accom- 
plished on horseback. Not far from the summit is a spring 
of excellent water, and also a house for the accommodation 
of visitors. The view from the summit is similar to that 
from Mount Mansfield. The height above the sea is 4083 
feet, and some over 3800 above Winooski River. The 
peculiar outline of its summit, which suggests its name, 
and its comparatively isolated position, make it a conspicu- 
ous object for many miles around. The mountain is 
crowned by jagged, barren rocks, and the imposing scene 
which the lofty heights overlook is in no way obstructed 
by the forest vail, which often disappoints the hopeful 
climber of forbidden mountain-tops. Bolton Falls, a few 
miles below Waterbury, affords a pleasant excursion from 
the Hump. The high bluffs on either side of the river 
were e^i-dently once united, forming a natural bridge. 
Through it the river has finally worn a deep and narrow 
channel. Perpendicular and overhanging rocks form the 
gorge, while huge boulders, piled together, nearly bridge 
the river at low water. Just after passing the falls, the 
tourist can get a good view of them from the car-window, 
w^here he will notice the foaming stream and the project- 
ing rocks above. 
Lake ME:MPHKE:MAGoa. — Overshadowed by lofty moun- 



LAKES, EIVERS, AXD MOUNTAINS. 159 

tain peaks wliicli rise to tlie Iieiglit of nearly 3000 feet, 
and bordered by dense forests and grassy slopes, in Nortli- 
em Vermont and tlie Province of Quebec, is Lake Mem- 
phremagog — " tbe Beautiful Water." In general appear- 
ance it resembles Lake Horicon in Nortbern New- York. It 
is 30 miles long and 2 wide, and lies in a deep and narrow 
basin. About one tbird of tbe lake is in Vermont and tbe re- 
mainder in Canada. There are no marshes or ponds of stag- 
nant water along its banks, and its rock-bound shores and 
wooded islands give it a picturesque appearance. Fed by 
mountain streams, pure and cold, it is the home of the 
prince of the finny tribe, the speckled trout, which hero 
attains unusual proportions. It is no uncommon thing to 
catch those that weigh from 10 to 15 pounds, while old 
fishermen, who are posted on favorite localities, will occa- 
sionally show you one weighing from 30 to 40. The best 
fishing places are near the Mountain House, at the base of 
Owl's Head, where the water is the coldest and deepest. 

The principal hotels on the lake are : Memphremagog ' 
House, Mr. Lafayette Buck, proprietor, at Newport, Ver- 
mont, south end, or head, of the lake ; Mountain House, 
Mr. A. C. Jennings, proprietor, at Owl's Head, (mountain,) 
12 miles from Newport ; and the Parks House, a new hotel, 
at Magog, Quebec Province, at the head of the Magog Eiver 
through which the lake waters reach the Saint Lawrence. 
The terms at these houses will not be found as high as at 
the Newport by the sea, as this is within the influence of 
Vermont moderation and hospitality. The Memphrema- 
gog is the largest and most popular of the three hotels, 
accommodating some 300 guests. Terms, $3.50 per day, 
$21 for one and §35 for two weeks. It stands directly 
upon the bank of the lake, fronting the bridges and the 
railway, as well as the steamboat landing, and from its 



160 LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 

windows and broad piazzas an excellent view of tlie lake, 
tlie mountains, and the surrounding country, is to be bad. 
The view of tlie lake is especially fine, embracing various 
bays and promontories, witli the famous Owl's Head in tbe 
centre of tlie picture, and Bear Mountain and Mount Ele- 
pbantis upon either band. Tbe merit of tbe Mountain 
House consists in its contiguity to Owl's Head, (see below,) 
wbicli tourists generally wisb to climb. Tbe bouse stands 
upon tbe sbore of a pleasant bay of tbe lake. Tbe Parks 
House is located nearest to Montreal, (see routes below.) 
and affords a fine opportunity for becoming familiar witb 
Canadian towns, people, and customs. 

Newport, Vermont, tbe principal and only important town 
on Lake Mempbremagog, is beautifully situated upon a 
promontory projecting boldly out from tbe western sbore 
of Lake Mempbremagog, about 3 miles from its bead. 
Tbis x^romontory, long known as Pickerel Point, consists 
of a lofty eminence called Prospect Hill, witb a consider- 
able area at its foot, upon wbicb tbe village is built. Its 
extremity approaching within a few hundred yards of the 
eastern shore, this point was early selected as the proper 
locality for a bridge, and for many years the village was 
known as Lakebridge, a name which it would perhaps 
have been well to retain. Six years ago, Newport num- 
bered but ten or twelve houses ; now it is a large vil- 
lage, containing many tasteful residences, both of citizens 
residing permanently, and of others who make this their 
summer home. Several large manufacturing establish- 
ments give life to the place, and employment to its inhabi- 
tants, while numerous stores make it the centre of local 
trade for a large section of the surrounding country. Four 
bridges, two for ordinary travel and two belonging to the 
Passumpsic Railway, cross the lake here, and large wharves 



LAKES, BIYERS, AXD MOUNT AIXS. 161 

furnisli facilities for the navigation of tlie lake, most of 
wliicli centres at tins point, the bridges preventing steam- 
boats from ascending farther. 

The fine new iron steamboat Lady of the Lake makes 
two trips daily over the lake, from Newport, 7.30 a.m. and 
1.15 P.M. to Magog, returning at 10.30 A.M. and 4.30 p.m. 
There is a great number of interesting points on the route, 
which will be agreeably noted by the captain as you pass, 
and therefore do not need mention in detail here. The 
chief places are : Mason's Point and Cavern, the Mountain 
House Wharf, Skinner's (Smugglers') Cave, Balance Rock, 
Concert Pond, near Mount Elephantis; Georgeville, (20 
miles from Newport and 7i from Owl's Head, and having 
one or two hotels- ;) Knowlton's Landing, (whence stage to 
Waterloo, 20 miles, connecting with railway for Saint 
John's and Montreal ;) and Magog, at the foot of the lake. 
Near Magog is Mount Orford, 3300 feet high, the most 
extensive mountain in Quebec. It is 5 miles from Magog, 
and a carriage-road has been constructed to its summit. 

Next to the enjoyment of the lake itself, the view from 
the summit of Owl's Head is the great attraction at Mem- 
phremagog. The mountain is conical in sha]3e, and 3000 
feet high. Looking south, you see Clyde, Barton, and 
Black Rivers, Newport, all the islands on the lake, and 
the lake itself from end to end. To the north, Durham's 
Point, Dewey's Point, Knowlton Bay, the Outlet, Orford 
Mountain, and countless other objects. To the east, Sey- 
mour Lake, Stanstead Plain, Rock Island, Salem Pond, 
Charleston Pond, Derby Centre, Willoughby Lake, White 
Mountains, Little Magog, Massawippee Lake, Gfeorgeville, 
etc. To the west, the continuation of the Gfreen Mountain 
Range. To the north-west, the Sugar Loaf and Ridge 
Mountain, Broom Lake, and North and South Troy. In a 



162 LAKES, EIVERS5 AND MOUNTAINS. 

clear day, Montreal can be distinctly seen in tlie north- 
west. 

Tlie tourist from New- York City will start from Twenty- 
seventli Street depot at 8 A.M., (best,) or 3 or 8 P.M., and 
pass tliroiig.li New-Haven, Springfield, Greenfield, Bellows 
Falls, White River Junction, etc. The Bostonian will go 
by Lawrence, Manchester, and Concord, to White River 
Junction, unless he choose to take the less direct route to 
Greenfield or Bellows Falls, where he will strike the route 
of New- York passengers. The journey by rail for the 
whole distance to the lake is fine, embracing much of the 
best scenery of New -Hampshire or the Connecticut Yalley, 
according to the route selected ; but that on the Passump- 
sic Railway is the best of all. Tliis road, from White River 
Junction, continues up the Connecticut River, crossing 
White River at its mouth, and passes through the pictur- 
esque Passumpsic Yalley, guarded by massive hills on either 
side. From car- windows, the tourist catches glimpses of 
the sparkling and bubbling brooks as the train speeds 
along ; of silvery ponds and miniature lakes ; of lofty 
mountain peaks, and deep valleys and glens ; and of rich 
and expansive meadows, and thrifty Yermont farms, some 
of which sit right on the cap of the hill. After leaving 
the Passumpsic, and passing the summit between the 
waters flowing to the Sound and those flowing to the 
Saint Lawrence, the route lies through the lovely Barton 
River Yalley, until it reaches the lake. 

The distance from New- York to Newport, Yermont, is 
365 miles, requiring 15 hours' ride. Through fare, $10.50. 
To designate the route a little more fully, we may say : 
Leaving Twenty-seventh Street depot at 8 A.M., you arrive 
at the Massasoit House, Springfield, in time for a comfort- 
able and capital dinner ; leaving at 2 P.M., sup and sleep 



LAKES, RIYERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 163 

at tlie Island House, Bellows Falls. Leaving at 11.45 
A.M., dine at White River Junction, and reach the Mem- 
phremagog House, at Newport, at 6.30 P.M. This method 
affords a complete daylight view of the railway scenery 
above briefly described. 



THE MWKE FOREST. 

The most interesting route for the tourist in Maine to 
take is perhaps that which leads through the hills, lakes, 
and forests of the north ; but we warn him, beforehand, 
that it will not be one of ease. Rugged roads and scant 
physical comforts will not be his most severe trial ; for, in 
many places, he will not find road or inn at all, but must 
trudge along painfully on foot, or by rude skiff over the 
lakes, and trust to his rifle and his rod to supply his 
larder. 

A great portion of the State is yet covered by dense for- 
ests, the utilization of which is the chief occupation and 
support of its inhabitants. The most fertile lands lie in 
the central southern regions, between the Penobscot River 
on the east and the Kennebec on the west, and in the val- 
ley borders of other waters. The leading objects of inter- 
est to tourists are the mountain ranges, which are bold 
and imposing — one summit, that of Katahdin, having an 
elevation of 5385 feet above the level of the sea. The 
lakes are numerous, sometimes of great extent, and often 
very beautiful. They are to be found throughout the 
State, and more especially among the mountains in the 
north. Indeed, it is estimated that one tenth part of the 
whole area of Maine is covered by water. The rivers are 
numerous and large, and present everywhere scenes of 



164 LAKES, EIYEES, AND MOUNTAIXS. 

great and varied beauty. Tlie Atlantic coast, wliicli occu- 
pies the whole southern line of the State, is the finest in 
the Union, in its remarkably bold, rocky character, and in 
its beautiful harbors, bays, islands, and beaches. The sea- 
islands of Maine are over 400 in number ; many of them 
are very large, and covered by fertile and inhabited lands. 
The climate, though marked by extremes, both of heat 
and cold, is yet everywhere most healthful, its rigor being 
materially modified by the proximity of the ocean. 

In these ^dldest regions the exploration may be made 
with great satisfaction by a party well provided with all 
needed tent-equipage, and with all the paraphernalia of 
the chase ; for deer, and the moose, and the wild-fowl are 
abundant in the woods, and the finest fish may be freely 
taken in the waters. Still, he may traverse most of the 
mountain-lands and lakes by the roads and paths of the 
lumbermen, who have invaded all the region ; and he may 
bivouac, as comfortably as should content an orthodox for- 
ester, in the humble shanties erected by the hardy back- 
woodsmen. The mountains of Maine are broken and dis- 
tinct peaks. A range, which seems to be an irregular 
continuation of the White Hills of Xew-Hampshire, ex- 
tends along the western side of the State for many miles, 
and, verging toward the north-east, terminates in Mars 
BU.11. This chain di\T.des the waters which fiow north into 
the River Saint John from those which pass southward to 
the Atlantic. Many beautiful lakes lie within this territory. 
The wilderness of Northern Xew-York (see The Adzrox- 
DACKs) has many features in common vdth. the northern 
mountain and lake region of Maine. 

MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 

Moosehead Lake, the largest in Maine, is among the 
northern hills. It is 35 miles long, and, at one point, is 10 



LAKES, EIVERS, A^D MOUNTAINS. 165 

miles in "breadtli, thoiigli near tlie centre there is a pass 
not over a mile across. Its waters are deep, and furnish 
ample occupation to the angler in their stores of trout and 
other fish. This lake may be traversed in the steamboats 
employed in tomng lumber to the Kennebec. A summer 
hotel occupies a very picturesque site upon the shore at 
Greenville, at the foot of the lake. The Kineo House, 
midway, the usual stopping-place, has recently been 
burned. There are numerous islands on the Moosehead 
Lake, some of which are of great interest. On the west 
side, Mount Kineo overhangs the water at an elevation of 
600 feet. Its summit reveals a picture of forest beauty 
well worth the climbing to see. The roads thither, lying 
through forest-land, are necessarily somewhat rough and 
lonely. This lake is the source of the great Kennebec 
Eiver, by whose channels (150 miles) its waters reach the. 
sea. The readiest approach from Boston or Portland is 
ma Newport or Bangor, on the Portland and Bangor Rail- 
way. Stages leave both these stations for the lake, 60 miles 
distant. Fare from Bangor, $4.50. 

There is a steamer over the lake every day, passing the 
finest scenery to be enjoyed on any Maine Lake. This, 
too, is the best point of departure for excursions in birch 
canoes. 

THE ANDROSCOGGIN LAKES. 

Lake Umbagog lies partly in Maine and partly in New- 
Hampshire. Its length is about 12 miles, and its breadth 
varies from 1 to 5 miles. The outlet of Umbagog and the 
Margallaway Eiver forms the Androscoggin. 

Androscoggin and Moosetocknoguntic Lakes are in the 
vicinity of Umbagog. These lakes may be reached by 
stage from Bethel, which is on the Grand Trunk Railway, 



166 LAKES, EIVEES, AND MOUNTAINS. 

and noted for fisliing. Hotel in Upton. J. Q. 'Rich, a 
famous '^uide and trapper, lives at Upton. 

SEBAGO. 

Sebago Pond, a beautiful lake 12 miles long, and from 
7 to 8 miles broad, is about 20 miles from Portland, on a 
route tbence to Conway and tlie White Mountains, It is 
connected with. Portland by tlie Cumberland and Oxford 
Canal. 

THE GEAITD LAKES. 

The best place for salmon-trout is on the Grand Lakes, 
in Washington county. The Rev. Dr. Bethune came here 
reiDeatedly. Go by steamer to Calais and railway to 
Princeton, where guides and information may be ob- 
tained. Or, go by stage from Bangor — a very tedious 
route. 

THE MOUNTAINS. 

Sugar-Loaf Mountain, upon the Seboois River, north- 
east of Mount Katahdin, is nearly 2000 feet high, and 
from its summit a magniiicent view is commanded, which 
embraces some 50 mountain peaks and nearly a score of 
picturesque lakes. Bigelow, Saddleback, Squaw, Bald, 
Gilead, the Speckled Mountain, the Blue Mountain, and 
other heights, with intervening waterfalls and brooks, are 
in the neighborhood. 

Mount Katahdin, with its peaks 5385 feet above the 
sea, is the loftiest summit in the State, and is the ultima 
tliule, at present, of general travel in this direction. The 
ordinary access is in stages from Bangor over the Aroos- 
took road, starting in tolerable coaches on a tolerable road, 
and changing always in both from bad to worse. A plea- 



LAKES, RIYEES, AXD MOTJXTAIXS. 167 

sant route for tlie adventurer is doTrn the west brancli of 
tlie Penobscot, in a canoe, from !Mooseliead Lake. " Birch- 
es/' as the boats are called, and guides, may be procured 
at the foot of Moosehead, or at the house, near the centre 
of the lake. By this approach, Katahdin is seen in much 
finer outlines than from the eastward. 

THE VALLEY OF THE HOTJSATONIC. 

Henry Ward Beecher says, in his Star Papers : " Of all 
the railroads near Xew-York, none can compare for beauty 
of scenery with the Housatonic from Newtown up to Pitts- 
field, but especially from New-Milford to Lenox." 

Let this be your authority, reader, and go ; but see to 
it, first, that you have Mr. Beecher's tastes, and not a Sa- 
ratogian's or a sea-bather's. To the C[uestion, " ^^liat do 
you do for amusement ?'' in a summering by the Housa- 
tonic, he rephes : " We do not receive company, or make 
calls, or ride about among a caravan of dandy vehicles, or 
' go with the multitude' in a-swimming, or any thing else 
that imphes excitement or company. We have a select 
few here, to whom quiet is enjoyment. We look at the 
picture-gallery of God in the heavens, with never two 
days' pictures alike ; we sit down with our books on the 
brow of the breezy hill, under an old chestnut tree, and 
read — sometimes the book, sometimes the landscape, and 
sometimes the highland clouds ; we wait till the evening 
sun begins to emit rose-colored light, and then we take 
rides along the edges of woods, upon unfrequented roads, 
across suspicious bridges, along forest-paths leading no 
one knows where, and coming out just at the very Sjpot we 
did not expect. . . . But on other days we vary the 
entertainment, for there is an inexhaustible variety." 

In this spirit, the rest-seeker from the great city will 



168 LAKES, EIYEES, AND MOUNTAINS. 

tliank God for tlie Housatonic Valley, coming once and 
again. Are you ready, now, to go ? 

Start, then, by the cleanest place of departure from New- 
York, the Twenty-seventh Street depot, by the New-Haven 
line. Your fare to Bridgeport, where you leave the trunk 
line and change to the Housatonic Railway, is $1.70 — un- 
less you choose to take the Bridgeport steamboat, from 
Pier 35, East River, and then it will be $1 only, or even 
less. The Housatonic road mil want 3 cents per mile for 
any distance short of its northern terminus, at Pittsfield, 
Mass., but will convey you the whole of those 110 miles 
for $3 ; and as the Harlem Railway also tickets passengers 
to Pittsfield, (by Chatham Four Corners and the Western 
Raihvay,) the through fare from New- York City is but 
$3.90 on either road. The best time to leave the city is 8 
A.M., connecting at Bridgeport for Pittsfield at 10.30 ; the 
train reaches Pittsfield at 3.50 P.M. ; the ride is a long, 
slow one, but not tedious to any one who enjoys comfort- 
able, almost dustless cars, polite conductors, and unceasing 
beauty of scenery. There is also an afternoon train, which 
leaves New- York at 3 p.m., reaching Pittsfield at 11 p.m. 

The Housatonic River, whose banks the railway of its 
own name follows from New-Milford to Pittsfield, near its 
head-waters, rises among the Taconic Mountains, (the 
*' Berkshire Hills,'' as the natives fondly call them,) in 
North-western Massachusetts. It flows almost due south 
as far as the lower border of Litchfield county, Connecti- 
cut, bends greatly to the east, and reaches Long Island 
Sound at Stratford, nearly 20 miles east of the point where 
a straight course would have terminated. The Naugatuck 
Railway follows its shore-line as far as Derby, where navi- 
gation ends ; thence the road sets itself a hard task in 
chasing the nimble Naugatuck, (see sketch of the Nauga- 



LAKES, EIVERS, Al^D M0U:N'TAINS. 169 

TUCK Valley.) The Housatonic between Stratford and 
Derby is a broad, beautiful stream, rather maintaining the 
dignity of na^dgable water, however, to the detriment of 
its scenery ; and the railway, whether appreciating this 
fact or led away by the irresistible attractions of Newtown, 
declines to seek its acquaintance for the first 30 miles of 
its rails. 

Bridgeport, 58 miles from New- York City, is the south- 
ern terminus^our starting-point — of the Naugatuck and 
Housatonic Railways. Any one particularly interested in 
sewing-machine factories or clam -bakes will stop here and 
visit the former — a multitude — and go boating for the 
latter ; or if one wishes to see a pretty ridge of city coun- 
try-seats, he will go up the " Golden Hill," back of the 
depot, and see that of which Bridgeport is proud. Other- 
wise we will start at once. There is a mediocre restaurant 
in the depot, at which it is possible to eat if one must. A 
good dinner, however, waits at Kent Station, 48 miles up, 
at 12.52 o'clock noon. 

This village of Kent, by the way — for we shall hardly 
need to delay for the brook-side, leaf-covered ride below, 
nor the long-awaited 'rippling of the river near New-Mil- 
ford — is a very queer, quiet place. President Woolsey, of 
Yale University, spends his summers here, among the 
Scaghticoke Indians, or what few are left of them, on the 
banks of the Housatonic. Kent Plains are very pretty, 
and so quiet ! During the war most of the men went to 
the front, and there was a period when, if a horse cast a 
shoe, he must go to the next village for help, for there was 
no blacksmith in Kent ! The river all throuMi the village 
is charming ; there are two pretty lakelets, called respec- 
tively by the names of Hatch and Swift, both visible from 
the railway ; and, best of all, there is, near the Orthodox 



170 LAKES, RIYEES, AND MOUNTAINS. 

cliurcli, a Mil, wliicli rises slieer from tlie Plains 1000 feet, 
and at the summit is Spectacle Pond — a couple of oval 
sheets of black water, connected by a strait, just as the 
name imports. You will never have a finer view either, 
that may with strictness be called a " moimtain-view,'* 
than from .the height overlooking this double lake. Look- 
ing to the west, you may behold five closely-placed ranges 
of mountains, spread out like the fingers of one's hand, 
with not space enough between to afford any relief from 
the lofty scene ; the fifth range are the Catskills, of New- 
York, 60 miles distant. Then, descending and crossing 
the river — magnificent when swollen — we have varied op- 
portunity for delight in very Wales-like scenery of abrupt 
mountain-sides, rapid water, and rocky banks. 

Mr. Beecher's Star Papers are full of loving reminis- 
cences of all this region ; for we are now in the vicinity 
(Litchfield, in the county of which is Kent) of his birth ; 
and we can not do better than to quote his words, with 
such added notes as may make random letters available 
for a tourist. The parentheses shall be our own : 

"If one has not leisure for detailed explorations, and 
can spend but a week, let him begin; say at Sharon or Sa- 
lisbury, both in Connecticut and both accessible (Sharon 
Station) from the Harlem Railroad, (or from Canaan, 73 
miles from Bridgeport, on the Housatonic.) On either 
side, to the east and to the west, ever-varying mountain- 
forms frame the horizon. There is a constant succession 
of hills swelling into mountains, and of mountains flowing 
down into hills. The hues of green in trees, in grasses, 
and in various harvests, are endlessly contrasted. There 
are no forests so beautiful as those made up of both ever- 
green and deciduous trees. At Salisbury, you come under 
the shadow of the Taconic range. Here you may well 



LAKES, EIVEES, AND MOUNTAINS. l7l 

spend a week, (a good hotel for families will help you to 
decide,) for the sake of the rides and the objects of curiosi- 
ty. Four miles to the east are the Falls of the Housatonic, 
called Canaan Falls, (railway station, Canaan, where stage 
connects, 15 miles, with Winsted, on the Naugatuck Rail- 
way,) very beautiful, and worthy of much longer study 
than they usually get. Prospect Hill, not far from Falls 
Village, (67 miles up,) affords altogether the most beauti- 
ful view of any of the many peaks with which this neigh- 
borhood abounds. Many mountain-tops of far greater 
celebrity afford less various and beautiful views. JSTear to 
it is the Wolf 's Den, a savage cleft in the rocks, through 
which you grope as if you had forsaken light and hope 
forever. On the west of Salisbury you ascend Mount Riga 
to Bald Peak, thence to Brace Mountain, thence to the 
Dome, thence to that grand ravine and its wild water, 
Bash-Bish — a ride, in all, of about 18 miles, and wholly 
along the mountain-bowl. On the eastern side of this 
range, and about 4 miles from Norton's House, in Salis- 
bury, where you will, of course, put up, is Sage's Ravine, 
which is the antithesis of Bash-Bish. Sage's Ravine, not 
without grandeur, has its principal attractions in its beau- 
ty ; Bash-Bish, far from destitute of beauty, is yet most re- 
markable for grandeur. I would willingly make the jour- 
ney once a month from New- York to see either of them. 
Just beyond Sage's Ravine, very beautiful falls may be 
seen after heavy rains, which have been named Norton's 
Falls. Besides these and other mountain scenery, there 
are the Twin Lakes on the north of Salisbury, and the two 
lakes on the south, around which the rides are extremely 
beautiful. But they should always be afternoon rides ; for 
these discreet lakes do not choose to give out their full 
charms except at about an hour before sunset. The rides 



172 LAKES, EIYEFwS, AIS^D MOITNTAINS. 

in all tMs neighborliood are very fine, and a week at Salis- 
bury, if tlie weatlier be fine and your disposition reason- 
able, will be apt to tempt yon back again and again. 

"From Salisbury to WiUiamstown, and then to Ben- 
nington, in Vermont, there stretches a country of valleys, 
lakes, and mountains that is yet to be as celebrated as the 
lake-district of England and the hill-country of Palestine. 

" From Salisbury to Great Barrington, the road lies along 
the base of the mountains, and, indeed, is called the under- 
mountain road. Great Barrington is one of those places 
which one never enters without wishing never to leave. 
It rests beneath the branches of great numbers of the state- 
liest elms. It is a place to be desired as a summer residence." 

West of Great Barrington, 4 miles by stage, (or 6 miles 
by stage from Hillsdale, on the Harlem Railway.) is South- 
Egremont, in Berkshire county. Here there is a delight- 
ful summer hotel, the Mount Everett House, Mr. John 
Miller, proprietor, capable of accommodating 50 guests 
from June 1st to November 1st, The mountain-scenery, 
the quiet village with its excellent roads, the fine trout- 
streams, and the luxurious table which the private farm 
and garden afford the hotel, render the place a delightful 
residence for the warm weather. 

" Next to the north (of Great Barrington) is Stockbridge, 
famed for its meadow-elms, for the picturesque beauty ad- 
jacent, for the quiet beauty of a village which sleeps along 
a level plain just under the rim of hills. If you wish to 
be filled and satisfied with the serenest delight, ride to the 
summit of this encircling hill-ridge, in a summer's after- 
noon, while the sun is but an hour high. The Housatonic 
winds, in great circuits, all through the valley, carrying 
willows and alders with it wherever it goes. The horizon 
on every side is piled and terraced with mountains. Ab- 



LAKES, EIVERS, AXD MOUXTAIXS. 173 

rupt and isolated mountains bolt up liere and tliere over 
tlie wliole stretch, of plain, covered with evergreens. Upon 
the northern ridge lived the worthy Dr. West, known and 
honored among jSTew-England theologians. It is but re- 
cently that his old house was demolished. And this verv 
spot we came near purchasing for a summer home." 

This spot, which Mr. Beecher so admired and desired, 
has become the summer residence of Rev. Henry M. Field, 
D.D., of the Evangelist ; and when the eminent Scotch di- 
vine, Dr. James McCosh, was in this country, in 1866, he 
spent a week with his friend Robert Carter, the New-York 
publisher, in this neighborhood, and several times visited 
Dr. Field, and used to stand on the piazza and look off 
upon the landscape with infinite delight, saying that the 
view was equal, if not superior, to any in Scotland ; a re- 
mark which he explained by adding that Walter Scott al- 
ways said, " The most beautiful scenery in Scotland was 
between the Highlands and the Lowlands, where the rug- 
ged northern peaks melt down into gentler heights, with 
soft, winding valleys between" — and such, he observed, 
was exactly the character of the scenery here. On the 
same hill is the country-seat of David Dudley Field, Esq., 
of Xew-York, who is the largest landholder in the town, 
in which he owns about 1000 acres. Between the dwell- 
ings of the two brothers, and on the latter's estate, is an 
ancient house of much historical interest, being built by 
the General Court of Massachusetts, long before the Revo- 
lution, for the missionary Sargent, who came here to preach 
the Gospel to the Indians, Stockbridge being the seat of a 
powerful tribe. The Indian burying-ground is still pointed 
out a little west of the Cono^reofational church. In the 
village also still stands the house in which, more than a 
hundred years ago, Jonathan Edwards wrote his famous 



174 LAKES, EIYERS, AND MOUXTAIXS. 

book on the Freedom of the Will. At anotlier point in 
Stockbridge is tbe Ice Glen, a romantic fissure in tbe bigh. 
rocks overhanging tbe road, where parties delight, in sum- 
mer, to find a store of ice laid up in Xature's hidden places. 

The whole beautiful valleT stretches away, charmingly- 
varied bv the meandering Housatonic, almost as far as the 
eve can reach, Tvith the white houses dotting the green 
fields and meadows here and there, and the brown roads 
following feebly the example of the river. A sunset-scene 
once enjoyed here may not soon be forgotten. 

Around Stockbridge are many charming drives. Every 
ascent of a hill, and almost every turn in the road, opens a 
new landscape before the eye. There is an excellent hotel, 
(Stockbridge House, Mr. Heaton, proprietor, §3 per day,) 
which is usually well filled with refugees from the arid city. 

^' Going north, (6 miles,) we come to Lenox, known for 
the singular purity and exhilarating effects of its air and 
for the beauty of its mountain scenery. If one spends July 
or October in Lenox, he will hardly seek another home for 
summer. The church stands upon the highest point in 
the village, and if, in summer, one stands in the door and 
gazes upon the vast panorama, he might, without half the 
Psalmist's devotion, prefer to stand in the door of the Lord's 
house to a dwelling in tent, tabernacle, or mansion." Here 
is the burial-ground in which Mrs. Fanny Kemble Butler 
expressed once her desire to rest when her work on earth 
shall be over. " I \\ill not rise to trouble any one," said 
she, " if they will let me sleep there. I will ask only to 
be permitted, once in a while, to raise my head and look 
out upon this glorious scene !" 

Mr. Beecher's words are sustained by the great throng 
of Boston fashionables who affect Lenox, almost to the ex- 
clusion of the people of the town. For three months of 



LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 175 

summer Lenox is a very crowded resort. It shows the in- 
flux of citj people by a hotel at city prices. So, too, there 
are many who delight to spend their resting-season in Lee. 
The hotel has been burnt, and is not yet rebuilt. Hotel 
terms in Lenox are $4 per day, 

Pittsfield is the northern terminus of the Housatonic 
Railway, and is one of the most beautiful villages in all 
New-England. Population, about 11,000. The only hotel 
at present is the American House, just up the hill from the 
railway station ; terms, $3.50 per day, and a reduction for 
permanent board. The principal buildings of importance 
are : the new Roman Catholic cathedral, the finest in 
Western Massachusetts ; Maplewood Seminary, for young 
ladies, near by ; the Berkshire Medical College, at the 
other end of South street, (the chief avenue ;) and Dr. John 
Todd's elegant stone church. The Pittsfield Elm, which 
was and is not, was one of the finest and one of the famous 
trees of the country. It stood in the park opposite to 
which is the Congregational (Dr. Todd's) church. Its re- 
markable height, 128 feet, was enhanced by the entire 
lack of limbs for the first 90 feet. Under this tree Ethan 
Allen mustered many of his "boys" who marched on Ti- 
conderoga during the Revolution. When the old relic 
had become so decayed as to necessitate its destruction, 
July 24th, 1864, it was esteemed a general calamity, 
and specimens of the wood are yet exposed for sale at Mr. 
Burnell's news-store, as precious tokens of past glory. The 
concentric rings showed the Old Elm to be 340 years old. 

The drives about Pittsfield are charming in all direc- 
tions, nature and art having combined to make the roads 
delightfully smooth. Particularly we commend the rides 
to Williamstown, 20 miles ; to the Shaker Village, (Leba- 
non Springs,) in New- York, about 15 miles; but, above 



176 LAKES, EIVEES, AND MOUNTAINS. 

all, stop on tlie latter road at Lanesboro Pond. This ex- 
quisite little sheet of water is nearly the head-water of the 
Housatonic, and the views about it, particularly that of 
old Greylock Mountain and its twin peak, Saddle-Back, 
(see Willia:mstowx,) are worth studying for a day at 
least. In the village is a pretty little pond, called Silver 
Lake, and a mile or two out is the fine trotting-park of the 
Berkshire Pleasure Association. 

North of Pittsfield runs the Pittsfield and North-Adams 
Railway, 20 miles, a very primitive, uninviting freight- 
road, but j)assing through a charming country, especially 
affording some fine views of Greylock. At Adams is the fine 
new Wilson House, erected and named for Mr. James Wil- 
son, of sewing-machine distinction, and affording first-class 
accommodations. Terms, about $4 per day. This is an ex 
cellent point of departure for the places described in the 
sketch of William STOWN, which place is but 5 miles distant. 

Cummington lies in the heart of the hills which form 
the southern continuation of the Green Mountain range, 
and embraces some of the most iDicturesqu^ scenery of 
Western Massachusetts. The Westfield River, known as 
the Agawam where it empties into the Connecticut, oppo- 
site Springfield, winds through the town for a distance of 
8 miles, forming a deep and narrow valley, from which 
the hills recede at a height of 300 or 400 feet, in ridges or 
table-lands of wide extent, broken into varied undulations 
by small brooks and rivulets. A fair supply of trout is 
found in these lesser streams, and the visitor, in riding 
over the range on either side the valley, gains many bold, 
far-reaching, and inspmting views. Cummington is chiefly 
noted as the birthplace of the poet Bryant, who has bought 
the old family home, (see Flora's Glen, in Williams- 
town sketch.) On the north is the town of Plainfield, 




Taghkanic Falls, N. Y. 



)9S- 



LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 177 

whicli contains tlie old homestead of Gerard Halleck, and 
is known as the place where Dr. King, the missionary, first 
began his studies. On the south is the town of Worthing- 
ton, resting on a beautiful table-land, and noted as the 
birthplace and final resting-place of Brigadier-Greneral 
Price, of the New- York Volunteers. 

Cummington is reached by rail ma Northampton to 
Williamsburg, thence by stage 12 miles ; or by Boston and 
Albany Railway to Hinsdale or Pittsfield, and thence from 
the former place by stage 11 miles, or from the latter by 
carriage 22 miles ; or by rail to North- Adams, and by 
stage to Plainfield, 15 miles. A ride over the mountain, a 
spur of the Hoosick from North- Adams to Cummington, 
24 miles, presents some of the finest views in Massachu- 
setts. Old Greylock, the highest point in the State, and 
the valleys of the branches of the Hoosick, one stretching 
south to the heart of Berkshire and the other running far 
among the hills of Vermont, lie before the tourist and en- 
able him to take in at a glance the rich beauty of the 
famed Berkshire hills. Cummington has two hotels, and 
several private houses where board can be obtained at 
very moderate prices. Mails daily ; nearest telegraph 
station at Hinsdale, 11 miles. 

THE STJSQTIEHANNA RIVER. 

The Susquehanna is the largest and most beautiful of 
the rivers of Pennsylvania, traversing as it does its entire 
breadth from north to south, and in its most interesting 
and most important regions. It lies about midway be- 
tween the centre and the eastern boundary of the State, 
and flows in a zigzag course, now south-east and now south- 
west, and so on over and over, following very much the 
windings of the Delaware, which separates the State from 



178 LAKES, EIVEKS, AXD MOUNTAIXS. 

Xew-Jersey. The Pennsylvania Canal accompanies it 
tlirougliont its course from Wyoming on tlie north to the 
Chesapeake Bay on the south. All the great railways 
intersect or approach its waters at some point or other, 
and the richest coal-lands of the State lie contiguous to its 
banks. The Susquehanna, in its main branch, rises in 
Otsego Lake, in the east central part of Xew-Tork, and 
j)ursues a very tortuous but generally south-west course. 
This Main, or North, or East Branch, as it is severally 
called, when it reaches the central part of Pennsylvania, 
after a course of 250 miles, is joined at Northumberland 
by the West Branch, 200 miles long, which flows from the 
declivities of the Alleghanies. The course of this arm of 
the river is nearly eastward, and, like the North Branch, 
through a country abounding with coal and other valuable 
products. It is also followed by a canal for more than a 
hundred miles up. The route of the Erie Railway is upon 
or near the banks of the North Branch of the Susque- 
hanna in Southern New-York, and occasionally across the 
Pennsylvania line for 50 miles, first touching the river near 
the Cascade Bridge, nearly 200 miles from New- York, 
passing the cities of Binghamton and Owego, and finally 
losing sight of it just beyond Barton, 250 miles from the 
metropolis. The Northern Central Railway of Pennsyl- 
vania is along its banks from Williamsport down to 
Goldsborough, 106 miles, below which it is crossed only, 
not followed by, steam civilization. Nearly the whole of the 
Lackawanna and Bloomsburg Railway (only excepting 
the 9 miles from Scranton to Pittston) lies along the East 
Branch between Pittston and Northumberland. Nanti- 
coke and Shickshinny are on this route, which may be 
reached from New- York City by the Morris and Essex 
Railway to Washington, 70 miles, thence to Scranton, 77 



LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 179 

miles furtlier. The entire lengtli of the Susquehanna is 
about 500 miles, and the country which it traverses is of 
every aspect, from the quiet vale or cultivated farm to the 
wildest horrors of the stern mountain pass. The region 
most sought, and deservedly so, by the tourist in quest of 
landscape beauties, is that around and below the Valley of 
Wyoming. (See article under that title.) From this 
point down many miles to Northumberland, where the 
West-Branch comes in, the scenery is everywhere striking- 
ly fine ; but the best and boldest mountain passes extend 
from 5 to 10 miles below the southern outlet of Wyo- 
ming, around Nanticoke and Shickshinny. This is the 
region par excellence for the study of the artist. Portions, 
also, of the West-Branch, though not yet very much visit- 
ed, are remarkably fine. 

THE JUNIATA RIVER. 

What scenery can arrest the hasty, longing gaze of the 
railway traveler more certainly than that of the famed 
and lovely blue Juniata ? Along its charming banks the 
Pennsylvania Central Railway carries its passengers, 
often at a terrible altitude, from beyond Huntingdon to 
Duncannon, where it joins the Susquehanna — 90 miles' 
ride. It rises in the south central part of Pennsylvania, 
and, flowing eastward, falls into the Susquehanna at this 
point, about 14 miles above Harrisburg. The landscape 
of the Juniata is in the highest degree picturesque, and 
many romantic summer haunts will be found among its 
valleys ; though at present very little tarry is made in the 
region, from its attractions being little known, and the 
comforts of the traveler being as yet but inadequately 
provided for. The mountain background, as we look con- 
tinually across the river from the cars, is often strikingly 



180 LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUXTxUXS. 

bold and beautiful. .The Little Juniata, T\'liicli, witli tlie 
Frankstown Brancli, forms the main river, is a stream of 
wild, romantic beauty. The entire length of the Juniata, 
including its branches, is estimated at nearly 150 miles, 
and its entire course is through a region of mountains in 
which iron ore is abundant, and of fertile limestone val- 
leys. The Ray st own Branch, which rises in the south- 
west part of Bedford county, enters the Juniata near 
Huntingdon. 

NORTH-CAROLIXA. 

To a tourist wishing to go into new grounds, the State 
of North-Carolina mil afford an interesting field for sis or 
eight summer weeks. He need not be alarmed on the 
score of health. West of Raleigh, there is no more dan- 
ger than in any part of the State of Xew-York in any 
season of the year. 

We shall indicate in a brief, clear way the course he 
may steer, and point out the things it will be worth while 
to see. 

By the Annamessex route, one leaves New-York in the 
evening and next day dines in Norfolk ; or he may stop at 
Fortress Monroe a few hours, and go to Norfolk in the after- 
noon. Next day to Weldon, N. C, and thence to Raleigh. 
Through tickets may be had to Raleigh. Stop a day or 
two in this beautiful little City of Oaks. Mr. Blair, at 
the Yarborough House, will take care of you. Visit the 
Capitol, the Institute of the Blind, and the Insane Asylum. 
The streets are delightfully shaded, and there are pleasant 
drives in the vicinity. 

Twenty-six miles west, you may debark at Durham's 
and find a " daily track" which will carry you the same 
night to Chapel Hill, the seat of the University of North- 



/ 



LAKES, EIVEES, AXD MOUNTAINS. 181 

Carolina, a beautiful village, interesting on account of its 
venerable institution of learning. 

You return to the railway, and go west 71 miles to 
High Point, where a stage meets you to take you to Sa- 
lem, an old and very interesting town, belonging to the 
Moravians, and reminding you of the nicer kinds of Ger- 
man villages. If you have never been in a Mora\ian 
town, you will do well to stop a day and call upon the 
bishop, who will receive you politely, and show and tell 
you many instructive things in regard to the JJnitas Fra- 
trum. 

Go from Salem to the Pilot Mountain, by hired conveyr 
ance, distance about 20 miles. The Pilot lifts itself, 
sohtary and alone, no other moimtain near, about 3000 
feet about the level of the sea. Its position and form, 
rather than its height, make it an object of interest. You 
have fine views from the top. As you travel all about that 
region, the Pilot seems always in view, and to the nomadic 
aborigines of the country it was such a guide as to vrra 
for itself the name it bears. 

The tourist may return to Salem and so back to the 
railway ; but, if conveyance can be had at the Pilot Moun^ 
tain to Statesville, it will be better. If you go back to Sar 
lem and thence to Lexington, your next place is Sahsbury. 
There take the Western Korth-Carolina Railway to Mor- 
gantown, passing through States\dlle. But, if you have 
gone by private conveyance over to Statesville from the 
Pilot, there take ticket to Morgantown. 

Sixty miles of staging through a glorious country 
bring the tourist to Asheville. Mark, you are not dri^-ing 
through on lusiness. It is for pleasure and health that you 
go. Take it along reasonably, but keep moving, and you 
will grow stronger and happier. Asheville is a central 



182 LAKES, EIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 

and interesting place in Western North-Carolina. Persons 
go tliere and make that a sort of headquarters. Horses and 
vehicles can be had there to go in anv direction. There 
are plenty of stopping-places in the several routes above 
named to Asheville, and indeed, all through the mountains 
the stranger will meet a simple but cordial hospitality ; he 
will often find elegance and refinement. 

In Buncombe he will go to the Sulphur Springs, 5 miles 
west of Asheville ; he will go to Pisgah, N. C, 20 miles 
south-west of Asheville ; he will especially go to the 
Black Mountain, " grand, gloomy, and peculiar," in the 
summit of the highest point of which rest the remains of 
1;he late Dr. Mitchell, the martyr to science. There are 
miany interesting peaks in the neighborhood of the Blac"k 
^Mountain. 

There is an indefinite number of beautiful streams in 
Buncombe county; there is the rugged course of the 
Prench Broad, with a scenery mocking that of the Rhine ; 
the beautiful Swannanoa River, and many lesser mountain 
streams that afibrd fine trout-fishing. 

In McDowell, the stranger will go to the Sinville Falls, 
and to a nameless cave in the Blue Ridge, not yet fully 
explored. 

In Burke, he will go to the Table Rock. In Burke and 
McDowell, there are beautiful mountain streams. The sce- 
nerj along several of them, especially along the Sinville 
River, is grand. 

In Rutherford county, he will go to Chimney Rock and 
the Falls there. The Broad River (a branch) is a beauti- 
ful and interesting stream. 

In Polk, he will go to see the Tryon Mountain ; from the 
south face of this there is one of the handsomest land- 
scape views to be found anywhere ; to the east and south 
it is boundless. 



LAKES, EIVERS, AXD MOUXTAIXS. 183 

In Henderson county, the coimtry is beautifully undu- 
lating, and portions of it, near the summit of the Blue 
Ridge, are elegantly improved by gentlemen of wealth, 
who have summer places there. The celebrated Bute 
Mountain Gap is in this county. At many points in this 
county we can not tell where we cross the Blue Ridge. 

The county of Transylvania is the most beautiful county 
in the State. There are many interesting points in this 
county : Table Rock, Caesar's Head, Falls of the French 
Broad, Falls of the Davidson River, beautiful and clear 
streams, sometimes moving on slowly, at others rushing 
furiously. There are some very beautiful farms, some in 
a high state of cultivation, in this county. 

In Jackson county, he will go to see the Whiteside 
Mountain, a great and grand curiosity. 

Macon, Clay, and Cherokee are noted for the grandeur of 
their mountains and the beauty of their streams ; they are 
highly adapted to grazing purposes, and in many places 
it is beyond question that the grape culture would succeed. 
Whoever goes to Macon, should see Silas McDowell, Esq., 
an old, intelligent, and most interesting man. He knows 
much of the mountains and is in many ways interesting. 

Strangers can always find means of transportation in 
the mountains, and living there is cheap. Appetites cost 
nothing and health is indigenous. 

One can go from New- York to Grreenville, Tenn., or 
Green^-ille, S. C, by rail. Asheville is sixty miles from 
each of these places, same distance as Morgantown, N. C. 
If the business or pleasure of the tourist should lead him 
by either route, he will have a good time. 

All we are able to do for Xorth-Carolina in tliis edition 
is to indicate general routes. The tourist will avail him- 
self, of course, of information to be derived from intelli- 



184 LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 

gent people along his line of travel. In our next edition 
we liope to be more specific, bat for tliis summer wliat we 
give is sufficient. We beg to urge a Nortb-Carolina trip 
as new and fresb. He that hath " done" only the Adiron- 
dacks, and hath not explored Western North-Carolina, is 
hardly half a mountain man. 



CAVES. 

The State of Kentucky, in the United States of America, 
boasts the largest known cave in the world. Nearly all 
the great caves are in limestone rocks, of comparatively 
recent date. They are produced by the action of the water, 
which, running in little streams through the strata, and 
carrying mth it carbonic acid gas, (by which limestone 
is rendered soluble,) particles of the rock are taken up 
and removed. Thus the rock is hollowed out more rapidly 
than others of a softer nature are excavated by any mechan- 
ical action; and the work goes silently and steadily on 
through long geological periods, until subterranean pas- 
sages of wonderful beauty and extent are formed. 

Comparatively few of the caves in this country have 
attracted great attention from tourists. Even the Mam- 
moth Cave of Kentucky — the greatest natural wonder, 
after Niagara Falls, commonly known in America until 
the recent " across the Continent" travel — has been seen 
by but very few people, and can hardly claim a place here 
on any score but that of its neglected magnificence. Weir's 
Cave, in Augusta county, 17 miles north-east of Staunton, 
Va. ; Big Saltpetre Cave, in Marion county. Mo. ; and 
Howe's, Ball's and other caves in Schoharie county, N. Y., 
have never attained much more than a local distinction. 



LAKES, RIYERS, AND MOUXTAIXS. 185 

(Tlie last named of these alone, from tlieir contiguity to 
the city whence our routes mainly start, are described 
below.) 

THE MAMMOTH CAVE. 

Tourists from New-York City, going to the Mammoth 
Cave, have an abundant if not bewildering choice of 
routes. By the Erie and the Atlantic and Great Western 
Kailways, one has the famous broad-gauge cars, the fine 
scenery of the Upper Susquehanna and the Delaware, and 
a glimpse at the Oil Region. By the Pennsylvania Cen- 
tral, and by way of Zanesville to Cincinnati, the startling 
railway ride over the mountains, and the way through the 
beautiful rolling country of Ohio, afford delightful con- 
trasts. By the Camden and Amboy monopoly, and the 
Baltimore and Ohio, one may see the flattest and the bold- 
est railway riding this side the Rocky Mountain passes. 
And so you may take your choice of routes to Cincinnati. 
Regular fare, $22.40 ; probably lower during the summer. 
From Cincinnati to Louisville, the best way to go is by 
steamboat, leaving at 5 or 6 p.m., and reaching Louisville 
in the early morning. Or, if one chooses to see this part of 
the Ohio River by day, he may leave Cincinnati at noon, 
and reach Louisville in about 12 hours; so that, after a 
half-night's rest, he can start with those who came by the 
night boat, for Nashville. Fare, $3.50, includes meals and 
state-rooms. The tourist leaves Louisville for Cave City, 
the station for the Cave, on the Louisville and Nashville 
Railway, about 7 o'clock, and reaches the " city" by noon. 
Here begins the series of absurdities, impositions, and 
annoyances, which Southern hotel-keepers and their fel- 
lows deem necessary to the securing of their fortunes. The 
stage for the Cave does not leave Cave City until 2 p.m. ; 
meanwhile, dine at the Cave City Hotel ; $4 per day. The 



186 LAKES, EIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 

stage-journey is 8 miles, fare $2 ; but as tlie proprietor 
seems to have a doubt of your safe return, lie insists upon 
payment of $4, which entitles you to a return. The ride 
over to the Cave is through a very picturesque country ; 
and you may as well enjoy it, for you can not see the great 
phenomenon until morning. Whether the proprietor of 
the Mammoth Cave Hotel thinks people never visit the 
place twice, we know not ; but all his plans seem arranged 
on that basis. There are no guides to be had until morn- 
ing ; and of course no one will forget the many examples 
of people lost in the labyrinths of the Cave, to venture in 
alone. So you will stay at the Mammoth Cave Hotel, $4.50 
per day, rooms for 300 or 400 guests, a plain wooden ca- 
ravansary, until morning. 

The charge for a guide is $1 or |2, according to his ser- 
vices. Garments, suitable to be worn in the long tramp, 
are furnished gratis by the guide. There are two routes 
taken in the Cave, called respectively the Long and the 
Short Route. The former, for which the guide's services 
cost $2, extends 9 miles and return, and occupies nearly 
or quite all of one day. It is, of course, performed on foot, 
the "sailing" on the Lethe River and Echo River being 
quite inconsiderable; and a person not accustomed to a 
good deal of fatigue will find it a laborious enjoyment. 
Every one knows, or should know, the general nature of 
the route through mines and caves, (see Down in the 
Mines sketch,) and we shall not need here to undertake a 
detailed account of the Mammoth Cave wonders. The 
Short Route (charge for guide, $1) diverges from the other 
at the distance of less than a mile within the entrance, 
and is more picturesque ; its extent is 3 miles, and return, 
as many more. There are thus in all 24 miles of usual 
travel; but there are probably 150 miles of journe^^ng 



^ ^ k^ 



LAKES, EIYEES, AXD MOUXTAINS. 187 

possible witliin tlie Cave, mucli of it quite unexplored. 
Of course, in this are counted all tlie different roads and 
passages, etc., in all directions. But you can not make 
both, journeys in one day, were you ever so well disposed ; 
tlie landlord lias determined, in case you wisli to make 
both, to enjoy another niglit's draught on your purse. When 
you return from one route to the entrance, you find that 
the guides for the other have gone for the day ; to-morrow 
they will be at your service. 

These and other trifles are the annoyances of which the 
tourist wishes to learn beforehand ; the agreeable things 
alone are welcome as surprises. Of the latter he will not 
exhaust the supply in Mammoth Cave in less than two 
days ; but either route alone is sufficient to give one some 
adequate idea of the great natural curiosity of Kentucky. 

. THE CAVES OF SCHOHARIE COUNTY. 

After the great caves of Kentucky and Virginia — and 
the recent " Big Saltpetre" of Marion county, Missouri — 
the county of Schoharie, Xew-York State, affords some of 
the most interesting subterranean resorts in the world. 
They may be conveniently reached from New- York City 
by way of Albany and the Albany and Susquehanna Bail- 
way. Stations, Schoharie, 36 miles, and Howe's Cave, 39 
miles from Albany ; regular all-rail fare from Xew-York, 
$4.30. Trains leave Albany at 7.30 A.M., and 2 and 5 P.M.; 
reaching Howe's Cave at 9.40 a.m., and 3.58 and 8.27 p.m. 
Howe's Cave, which is much the most interesting one, is 
visible (a short walk only) from the station. Ball's Cave, 
nearly as large and important, is situated some 2 miles 
(conveyance, private carriages) from the station of Scho- 
harie. At the latter place there are several hotels, the 
chief the Mansion and the Franklin ; terms, about $2.50 



188 LAKES, RIYEKS, AlsT> MOUNTAINS. 

per day. At the Cave Station there is a more pretentious 

house, a little higher in its prices. Guides, oil-skins, etc., 
may be obtained at these houses. 

The limestone region in the northern part of this county 
of Schoharie (not very far from Sharon Springs) contains a 
number of caves, very interesting in their size, passages, 
and minerals. The largest is Howe's Cave, named for its 
discoverer and owner, Lester Howe, in May, 1842. Author- 
ities give its extent variously at from 3 to 20 miles, but 
it probably has an actual length of between 3 and 4 miles. 
The entrance is about 50 feet below the Cobles Kill. Several 
spacious chambers detain the wondering visitor ; particu- 
larly the Chapel, called so from the usual cause, a rude 
resemblance to an assembly-room. Next, one comes upon 
a low passage-way, not high enough to enable one to pass 
except on all-fours ; and after this is a miniature subter- 
ranean lake, 30 feet long, 20 wide, and 10 deep, with clear, 
limpid waters. By hstening intently at certain points in 
the journey, the singular sound of a hidden river, hnrry- 
ing on its course, and even of an invisible waterfall, may 
be heard in the distance. The cavern follows the course 
of a brook much of its remaining distance, and continues 
full of its wonderful surprises and beauties. \Mioever 
may have the patience — for it hardly requires courage — 
to follow it to the end, will be richly repaid. 

Ball's Cave, 2 miles from Schoharie Station, for which 
distance carriages may be had at the hotels, is almost 
equally attractive to the student of the hidden or the 
mysterious. A subterranean stream may be explored for 
a considerable distance here, with a boat kept in the cave 
for the use of visitors. There are several cascades in its 
course. 

In the vicinity there are many curiosities and attrac- 



LAKES, EIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 189 

tions, botli natural and aboriginal. Utsayantlia Lake, a 
small sheet of water in Jefferson toYmsMp, affords a sunlit 
contrast to tlie Lethean waters of the caverns. There are 
numerous other caves to visit, if two do not satisfy the 
tourist. 

Not very far from Howe's Cave, in the eastern part of 
the county, upon Schoharie Creek, there was once another 
very interesting curiosity, now quite destroyed. Near the 
village of Sloansville, by the side of a path leading to 
Fort Hunter, was a stone heap thrown up by the Indians, 
who from some superstitious reason prevalent among them, 
never failed to add a stone to the pile when they might 
pass it. A writer in 1753, (the Rev. Gideon Hawley,) re- 
marks that this heap had been accumulating for ages, and 
that his native guide could or would give no other reason 
for the observance than that his father practiced the rite, 
and enjoined it upon him. He did not like to talk about 
it. The writer believed the custom to have reference to 
an offering "to the Unknown Grod.'' The heap gave 
name to the Stone Heap Patent, granted September 15th, 
1770. The heap was 4 rods long, 1 or 2 wide, and 10 
to 15 feet high ; it consisted of small, flat stones. There 
have been similar stone heaps noticed elsewhere in the 
State. No trace of this monument now remains, in the 
original form, the unpoetic land-owner having used the 
stones, without ceremony, for a fence. 



190 LAKES, EIVEES, AND MOUNTAINS. 



THE LAKES OF NEW-YORK. 



The great lake of Nortli-eastern New- York, called by 
tlie Indians Saranac, but among us always known by 
tlie name of the French, discoverer, lies directly upon the 
most fashionable route of summer travel. Tourists visit- 
ing the Hudson and Lake Horicon, or the Saint Lawrence 
country, find Lake Champlain directly on their way. It is 
most directly available from New- York or Boston by rail 
to Troy, and thence by Rensselaer and Saratoga Railway 
to Whitehall, at the head of the Lake. Here the fine 
steamboats of the Lake Champlain Company start upon 
their journey. Their names are : the Adirondac, (new and 
finest,) Canada, United States, and Montreal. They leave 
Whitehall at 11 A.M. and 8.30 p.m., arriving, one at Rouse's 
Point at 8.45 p.m., and the other at Plattsburg at 5.30 p.m. 
Going south, (up the lake,) one leaves Plattsburg at 8 a.m., 
reaching Whitehall at 5 p.m. ; the other leaves Rouse's 
Point at 6 p.m., (leaving Montreal — the great train of the 
day, by Grand Trunk and Vermont Central roads — at 4 
P.M.,) and arrives at Whitehall at 6 A.M. The connections 
between the boats and the railways in Vermont are not as 
direct or certain as they should be. A good deal of the 
lake can also be seen by passengers on the Rutland and 
Burlington Railway ; but the road between Rutland and 
Troy is, chiefly, not near the lake. There is no railway 
on the western (New- York) side, though one is now pro- 
jected. 



5<^f 

LAKES, KIVERS, AND MOU^sTAINS. 191 

Samuel Cliamplain discovered and named this lake on 
Ms third voyage from France, on July 4th, 1609, having 
been declared Gfeneral Lieutenant of Canada by King 
Henry IV. War having broken out between the Iroquois 
Indians on one side, and the Hurons, Algonquins, and other 
tribes on the other, Champlain had attached himself to the 
latter party from prudential motives in regard to his col- 
ony, and "went with the Hurons on an unsuccessful expedi- 
tion against their foes. It was on this journey that he first 
beheld the lake. His unprovoked hostility to the Iroquois 
laid the foundation for their long wars vfiih the French, 
and their alliance, afterward, with the English. He died 
in 1632. 

Lake Champlain is 126 miles long, and varies in breadth 
from 40 rods to 15 miles ; depth, 54 to 282 feet ; navigable 
throughout its whole length for vessels of 100 tons. Its 
outlet, the Sorel River, carries its waters to the River Saint 
Lawrence. (See article on that tour.) On the south, com- 
munication is had by small boats with the Hudson River, 
through the Champlain Canal. Navigation closes on 
Champlain by the end of December, and usually opens by 
the first of April ; but the last winter season was unusually 
severe. The waters of the lake abound with bass, pick- 
erel, salmon, trout, and other varieties of fish. The scenery 
of the region is not to be surpassed. The Vermont shores 
are, for the most part, fertile and highly cultivated, delight- 
ing the eye ; while on the New-York side a grand contrast 
is afforded in the wild, rocky, and barren country which, 
at a short distance inland, develops into the mountainous 
and lake region of the Adirondacks. That famous range 
begins at Cape Trembleau, near Port Kent, 1500 feet high, 
and extends south-westerly to Little Falls, on the ^lohawk 
River. 



192 LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 

Starting from WMteliall at 11 a.m., we travel for 40 
miles upon that narrow portion of the lake which seems 
rather to belong to a great river. The first boat-landing 
is at Benson's, 13 miles down the lake — a small village on 
the (right-hand) Vermont shore ; the next at Oswell, 20 
miles on the same side ; and then we come to Fort Ticon- 
deroga, 24 miles from Whitehall. Here is a good hotel, and 
some distance back from the lake, commanding a very 
pleasing view of it, stands the old fort itself. This land- 
ing is the point of departure for Lake Horicon. (See arti- 
cle on Lake George.) The place is notable for its water- 
power, (think of using the lovely waters of Horicon to turn 
a saw-mill I) its graphite works, and its lumber business. 
Particularly, however, visitors care for the old fort, now 
quite a ruin, with its su]3posed underground passages, 
magazine, etc. The French built the fort in 1755, and called 
it Carillon, (" chime of bells,") in allusion to the water- 
falls on the Horicon outlet, near it. It was soon afterward 
called by its present Indian name. Sir William Johnson, 
of the British army, would have undertaken its reduction, 
in the same year, (1755,) in the interest of that long ques- 
tion of supremacy of the lake between the French and 
English ; but learning that the former had reenforced it 
strongly, he was content to fortify William Henry, at 
Caldwell. Montcalm reduced that fort, however, on the 3d 
of August, 1757. General Amherst laid siege to Ticonde- 
roga in 1759 TNdth 12,000 men, and the French were obhged 
to abandon it, July 30th. Crown Point was also abandoned 
soon after. The English Government then enlarged and 
strengthened the two fortresses at a cost of $10,000,000, 
making them the best in the country. After the cession of 
Canada, in 1763, the fort was allowed to fall into partial 
decay, and had but a small garrison ; and Ethan Alien 



ill 



LAKES, EIVEKS, AXD M0U2TTAINS. 193 

surprised and captured it. May lOtli, 1775 — one of tlie first 
fruits of tlie uprising' of the colonies. Burgoyne compelled 
its evacuation again July 4tli, 1777, and kept it till Ms sur- 
render. It was last occupied as a point of importance by 
General Haldeman, Ydth a company of British soldiers, in 
1780. 

Two miles further is Shoreham, an unimportant landing 
(to us) on the east shore. Crown Point comes next, 35 
miles down. The French erected the Fort Frederick here 
in 1731, while the French settlements along the lake were 
springing up. Its history is closely allied with that of 
Ticonderoga, and its present appearance is not more prom- 
ising. Sir William Johnson intended to have moved 
upon Crown Point, as well as Ticonderoga, when he was 
obliged to retire to William Henry. The whole region 
came into the hands of the English in 1759 ; and Allen 
took both these fortresses, as has been already stated. 

Port Henry is an interesting landing and town, 44 miles 
from W^hitehall, in the midst 'of some of the most pleasing, 
quiet scenery on the lake. 

Westport, and Essex, 55 and 65 miles, are at the base of 
the mountainous region which has been already alluded 
to. And at Port Kent, the next landing on the New- York 
side, 90 miles down, tourists who are wise enough not to 
lose the scenery of the Au Sable Chasm, leave the boat 
and take stage over the plank-road to Keeseville. The 
Adirondack region is entered from four of these landing- 
places on the lake : Crown Point, Westport, Essex, and 
Port Kent. For descriptions of the routes to the Adiron- 
dack Forest, and of the grand Walled Banks of the Au 
Sable, see article entitled The Adirondacks. While the 
boat stops at Port Kent, however, the traveler who 
remains on board will have time to observe the fine old 



194 LAKES, EIYEPvS, AND MOUNTAINS. 

stone mansion of Colonel Elkanah Watson, upon tlie liUl 
just back of the lake. Colonel Watson originated tlie 
first agricultural society in tlie State of New-York, and 
his record of a journey which he made at the age of 19, in 
the year 1777, is the best account which we possess of the 
principal towns and villages of the colonies in the Revo- 
lutionary period. He died in 1842, and his children still 
occupy the old i^lace. 

Opposite Port Kent, or nearly so, (the lake is here 10 
miles wide, and clear of islands,) lies the late town, now 
city, of Burlington, in Vermont. There are but two cities 
in the State of Vermont— Vergennes, population 1286, (last 
census,) and Burlington, 7713, incorporated within 5 years. 
There is not a great deal to see in Burlington, its charm 
to the tourist being rather in its views of the lake and the 
mountains and forests beyond. In this respect, we venture 
to declare it the finest lake-view in the country. Standing 
in the cupola of the University, on the summit of the hill 
behind the city, we behold, upon the north, Plattsburg, the 
great islands of the lake and their circumjacent waters, 
and the landscapes of Vermont and the Canadian Domin- 
ion. On the eastward view. Mount Mansfield and the 
chain of the Green Mountains, running down to Mount 
Lebanon and Camel's Hump toward the southward, shut 
out the great Connecticut Valley, and leave a very attrac- 
tive view instead. The little creek and village of Winooski 
lies at the foot of Burlington Hill, toward the north-east : 
and beyond it the Vermont country stretches away in a 
remarkable similarity to Western prairie-land. To the 
south-west lies a great expanse of lake, as far as Fort 
Ticonderoga. But the western view is the one which will 
first catch our eye, and to which we shall oftenest return. 
Ten miles' width of the lake makes a capital foreground 



:?/3 



LAKES, EIYEES, AND MOUNTAINS. 195 

for tlie famous wilderness of ISTortliern New-Tork, above 
whose unbroken forests rise tlie towering peaks of Mcln- 
tyre, White Face, and Tahawus, (jMarcy,) to an altitude, 
at the greatest, of 6000 feet. We have counted more than 
60 peaks within the scope of our vision in this most mag- 
nificent and inspiriting view. 

If the tourist has a little time to spend about Burling- 
ton, he Avill visit the tomb of Ethan Allen, in the cemetery 
just above the village of Winooski, on Burlington Hill — 
a very fine shaft of native granite, which will, some time 
or other, be surmounted with a statue. Allen died here 
February 13th, 1T89. The University of Vermont, founded 
1791, will receive some attention as the tourist seeks its 
cupola ; particularly he will notice the corner-stone of one 
of the more recent dormitory buildings, laid by General 
La Fayette during his visit to America in 1825. The ele- 
gant and picturesque residence of the late Bishop Hopkins, 
and his seminary, at Rocky Point, 2 or 3 miles down the 
shore of the lake, will well repay a visit. Visitors are 
made quite welcome to inspect the establishment. 

Hotels. — The American House, fronting the square in 
the centre of the city, half-way up to the University, and 
the Lake House, close to the depots, are the j)rincipal pub- 
lic houses. Terms, $3.50 per day. The visitor coming by 
boat should not fail to see the depot of the Vermont Cen- 
tral and the Rutland and Burlington Railways, close by 
the fine steamboat wharf; it is one of the most ornate in 
the country. From Burlington, tourists start for the White 
Mountains, Mount Mansfield, and Montreal by rail. For 
the first, see article entitled The White Mountains; 
the route to the second is given on page 56. 

Plattsburg, 105 miles from Whitehall, 69 from Rouse's 
Point, is the next station on our journey. This is a village, 



193 



LAKES, PwIYERSj AXD MOUXTAIXS. 



witli some SOOO inliabitaiits, of Clinton countv. Xew-York, 
standing upon Cunibeiiand Bay, at tlie moutli, and on 
both sides of the Saranac Hiver. Hotel, Fouqnet's ; terms, 
§3 per day. Tlie spot is not interesting for any thing 
present, but has high historical distinction. Cumberland 
Bay was the scene of the victory of McDonough and Ma- 
comb over the British naval and land forces, under Commo- 
dore Downie and Sir Greorge Provost, and familiarly known 
as the Battle of Lake Champlain. Here the American 
commodore awaited the arrival of the British fleet, which 
passed Cumberland Head about 8 o'clock in the morning 
of September 11th, 1814. The first gun from the fleet was 
the signal for commencing the attack on land. Sir George 
Provost, with about 14,000 men, furiously assaulted the 
defenses of the town, whilst the battle raged between the 
fleets, in full view of the armies. General Macomb, with 
about 3000 men, mostly undisciplined, foiled the repeated 
assatilts of the enemy, until the capture of the British 
fleet, after an action of about two hours, obliged the lat- 
ter to retire, with the loss of 2500 men and a large portion 
of his baggage and amunition. 

Twenty-five miles farther we reach Rouse's Point, on 
the west or Xew-York side of the lake. This is our last 
landing before we enter Canada. Montreal is now 44 
miles distant, and may be reached direct only by rail, (Alon- 
treal and Champlain;) time, a little less than 2 hotirs; 
fare, $2. The River Sorel (see article River Saixt Law- 
BEXCE, near the end) is the outlet of Lake Champlain, car- 
rying its waters to the Saint Lawrence in a course of 80 
miles, emptying at the head of Lake Saint Peter on that 
river. Its breadth and rapidity are greatest at this (sonth- 
exn) end. Xear the centre of its course it expands into the 
basin of Chamblv. It is called bv not less than four 



^ / w^ 



LAKES, EIYERS, AXD lI0U2s TAINS. 197 

names. The Nortliern Eailwaj runs from Eonse's Point 
to Ogdensburg, 118 miles, $4 ; passengers for the Thousand 
Islands, above Ogdensburg, or the Rapids below, in the 
River Saint Lawrence, take this route. 

LAKE (HORICON) GEOEGE. 

The very best way to arrive at Lake George (assuming 
that you are in its neighborhood) is by the stage from Fort 
Ti, and the afternoon boat to Fort William Henry : the 
very best way to leave Lake George is to take the 4 A.M. 
special stage from William Henry Hotel to Moreau Sta- 
tion. By the first, you assure yourself of a sunset on the 
lake, with all the glorious, deepening shadows of the after- 
noon introducing it ; and by the latter, you see the dawn 
breaking over the hills and piercing into the depths of the 
water between them, as — believe us — you never can see it 
on the piazza of the great lodging-house, or, probably, 
anywhere else. 

Americans shoiild call this lake by its native name of 
Horicon, ('' the silvery waters,") although that is not the 
only title which the Indians gave it. It was discovered by 
the French in 1609, and by them called Saint Sacrement ; 
and they regularly transported its pure waters to Canada, 
as New-Yorkers now import the waters of the Jordan, for 
baptismal purposes. The English afterward honored 
King George I. by re-naming the beautiful lake for him. 
We sliall not be expected to remind the reader that Revo- 
lutionary stories fill all the waters, hang over all the cliffs, 
and rustle in all the trees throughout this whole region. 

The tourist may approach Lake Horicon either from 
north or south, but only by stage. The least staging is by 
Fort Ticonderoga (generally called ''Fort Ti" hereabout) 
route. Fort Ti is 24 miles (by boat only) north from 



198 



WMteliall, wliicli is tlie soutliern terminus of tlie Lake 
Cliamplain steamboat line, and a station on the Rensselaer 
and Saratoga Railway, 73 miles north-east from Albany, 26 
miles south-west of Rutland. A line of stages, 4 miles, 75 
cents ! connects Fort Ticonderoga with the nameless foot of 
Horicon, where the steamboat Minne-ha-ha stands waiting 
to convey its noisy, happy, numerous load to Caldwell or 
elsewhere. Fare to Caldwell, $2, with privilege of return 
same day free. The approach by the southern or upper 
end of the lake (most New- York waters flow northward, 
V. p. 30 in article on Erie Railway,) is as follows : leaving 
the Rensselaer and Saratoga Railway at Moreau Station, 
48 miles from Albany, 47 from Rutland, stages run (through 
Glenn's Falls, on the Hudson) to Caldwell direct, 13 miles, 
fare $1.50 — a beautiful though fatiguing ride, in excellent 
coaches. 

Let us suppose ourselves arrived from Lake Champlain, 
after a 4 mile " outside " stage-ride over a romantic road, 
following the wild com^se of the passage, full of bold rap- 
ids and striking cascades, by which Horicon reaches the 
waters of Lake Champlain. (Ladies, as well as gentlemen, 
customarily avail themselves here of the ample and excel- 
lent seats upon the tops of the stages, and we counsel our 
fair readers to suffer no timidity to withhold them fi-om 
the enjoyment of this beautiful ride, which can only be 
secured in this way.) Our baggage and ourselves trans- 
ferred to the Minne-ha-ha, we are ready to listen to the 
welcome information which an employe of the boat com- 
pany kindly proclaims. Prisoner's Island, 2 miles up, 
where the English confined their captives during the wars 
of long ago, and Howe's Landing, on the west from the 
island, are the first points of interest. Lord Howe fell in 
the English attack upon Ticonderoga in 1758, and this 



LAKES, KIYEES, AND MOUNTAINS. 199 

landing is named for Mm. Rogers's Slide on tlie riglit, 
and Anthony's Nose on the left, are two promontories some 
2 miles further up the lake, which form a sort of gateway 
to a grand and beautiful bay. The Slide (400 feet high) 
is named for Major Rogers, (1758,) who tricked some red- 
skins into the belief that he slid down its face prior to his 
escape to Fort George. By looking at the precipice, the 
tourist will see that he didn't. Anthony's Nose, opposite, 
is less interesting — but the pass ^ill remind one of that 
other Nose of Anthony, on the Hudson River, where the 
Dunderberg answers to the Slide. 

The lake now broadens suddenly, as we leave Rogers's 
Slide and Anthony's Nose, and gains from the people here 
the misnomer of "bay,'* as far as Sabbath-day Point, 7 
miles distant. The greatest width is about 4 miles ; and 
the little village of Hague, on the western (right-hand) 
side, 3 miles south from the Slide, monopolizes this broad 
extent. The well-known Garfield's Hotel here was formerly 
a chosen resort of fishermen and artists : it was burned 
4 or 5 years ago, but was rebuilt last summer, and was 
opened at moderate prices — $2.50 or $3 per day. Hague 
is the point of departure for Lake Pharaoh, a favorite trout- 
pond, 12 miles to the north-west, surrounded by wild and 
picturesque scenery. 

At Sabbath-day Point, on the west shore, the sterility 
which hardly the western shore escapes, and w^hich cha- 
racterizes the whole eastern side of the lake throughout its 
length, breaks a little, and for a brief space our eyes feast 
upon fertile, level land. The Point is a narrow bit of 
meadow-land, which projects far into the lake; along its 
edge we may glance down to the pebbles beneath the pure 
water, and lose ourselves in the sweetness and beauty of 
our surroundings. Good reader, take our advice here, and 



200 LAKES, EIYEES, AXD MOUNTAINS. 

leave military stories to your neiglibor : stand aside, and 
tliink of tliis spot without its traditions or its history, suf- 
fering Xature alone to work the charm of her silence upon 
you. Think here, if you will, of the baptismal waters 
beneath whose depths you may look, seven fathoms down, 
upon the yellow sand ; of the chief islands, which may 
mark Sabbaths in the calendar that Horicon keeps by her 
islands ; and forget, beyond these, all but the Point, the 
Sabbath it honors, and the Lord of both. 

After passing Sabbath-day Point, we begin to come upon 
the islands of Horicon in multitudes ; and here, as we wan- 
der about among them, the cicerone will say that " these 
islands are said to greatly resemble the celebrated Thou- 
sand Isles of the Saint Lawrence." The parallel may fairly 
be extended further. Excepting only the rapids and the poi- 
sonous water, (see sketch of Saixt Lawhence,) this little 
Caniderioit {" the tail of the lake," as the Indians some- 
times called it, from its relation to Champlain) affords a 
complete epitome — a pocket edition, bound in blue and gold 
— of the whole great tour of the Saint Lawrence. Every 
thing is miniatured, but the copy is faithful : the " thou- 
sand isles " — here they correspond (in theory) in number 
to the days of the year — vrith. their singular channels, 
their abounding fish, their rustic summer-houses, and the 
unutterable beauty of their pebble-fringed edges ; the 
mountainous country round about, now lofty and abrupt 
enough to recall the Saguenay walls, and now receding 
like the pretty village-dotted banks from Quebec to Tadous- 
sac ; the long, river-hke views ; the oft-broadening stream, 
like. the Lakes Saint Louis and Saint Peter, on the Saint 
Lawrence, extending suddenly and again closing the 
inroads of the water upon the banks, and the gay crowds 
(here in miniature again — most often children have the 



21 f 



LAKES, EIYERS, AWD MOUNTAINS. 201 

majority at tlie little docks.) But tlie comparison may 
liardly be coutimied when we look down into the lake. 
The waters of Horicon are pellucid, exposing the sandy 
bed to view to the depth of 40 feet ; but the liquid emerald 
which, flowing over Niagara, was called by the natives 
Ontario — " beautiful " — comes down very little changed in 
hue to fiU the channels of the Saint Lawrence. The com- 
parisons ambitiously dra^vn, also, between Horicon and 
the European Lomond and Geneva, are not wholly unjust. 

The islands of Horicon are said to equal in number the 
days of the year, as the round number, 1000, is applied to 
the Isles of the Saint Lawrence. The number .is exagge- 
rated here, as it is underrated there ; but the notion is a 
pleasing one, and surely quite harmless! The lake is 
indebted to them for its beauty, as to its mountain sides 
for its magnificence. Their variety is charming, both as 
to form and aspect. Some are of considerable extent, level 
and cultivated ; others rise in rugged clifis from the water, 
their summits croT^med with tufts of vegetation, and their 
crevices filled with clinging shrubs and stunted trees ; 
some are bare rocks, on which the water-fowl make their 
nests ; and many are mere points, rising but a few feet 
above the water ; but all are beautiful and interesting to 
those who have the good fortune to traverse their laby- 
rinths. In the absence of an engraving to suggest to our 
readers these peculiar attractions of Horicon, we may avail 
ourselves of a brief pen-picture by the eminent artist, T. 
Addison Richards, N. A. : 

" With every changing hour," he writes, " dawn, sun- 
set, and night — T\ith the varying weather — from the calm 
of drowsy morning to the eve of gathering storm — these 
islands are found in ever-changing phases. As they sleep 
for a moment in the deep quiet of a passing cloud-shadow, 



202 LAKES, EIVERS, AISTD MOUNTAINS. 

you sigli for rest in tlieir cooling bowers. Anon tlie sun 
breaks over tliem, and you are still as eager to mingle in 
tlieir now wild and lawless revelry. You may shake up 
the lake like a kaleidoscope, seeing with every varying 
change a new picture, by simply varying your relative 
position to these islands. Now you have a fore-ground of 
pebbly beach, or, perchance, of jagged rock or of forest 
debris, with the spreading water and the distance-tinted 
hills, to fill up the canvas ; or, peeping beneath the pen- 
dent boughs of the beech and maple, an Arcadian bower 
discloses vistas of radiant beauty." 

The islands surround us like nereids until, yes, after, we 
are fairly in the Narrows. At this point the hills extend 
into the lake and contract it very considerably, while the 
height of the mountains renders the contraction more im- 
pressive and apparent, giving to our view the boldest and 
most picturesque parts of the shores of Lake George. The 
water here is 400 feet deep, and wonderfully joellucid, per- 
mitting the eye to penetrate far into its depths. The Black 
(2.300<eet) and Buck Mountains stand on the eastern shore, 
the latter toward the south. At the base of Black Moun- 
tain are some ten or a dozen turtle-shaped islands, which 
lie as if threateningly guarding the approach : for these 
some patriotic nomenclator has, within a year or two, 
thought up the name of "Gunboats" as appropriate. 
Tongue (sometimes also called Black) Mountain, on the 
western side, is so named from its projecting down into 
the lake like a tongue. 

Just above the Narrows, on the eastern side, lies Four- 
teen-mile Island, so named (correctly) from its distance 
from Caldwell. Derrom's Hotel, on this island, is by somo 
considered the best eating-place on the lake — terms, §2 per 
day, $10 to $12 per week. 



LAKES, EIVEES, AND MOUNTAIXS. 203 

Bolton, at the soutli-western end of tlie Xortliwest Bay, 
is a small village, with a hotel (terms low) which can 
accommodate 70 or 80 guests, (a favorite place for fami- 
lies,) and is usnallj crowded, like most of the public 
houses on Horicon. 

Trout Pavilion, on the east, 4 miles diagonal from Bol- 
ton, is a hotel (no village) kept by J. Cronkhill, at the very 
best fishing grounds on the lake. Terms, same as at Der- 
rom's. 

Between Bolton and Caldwell there are one or two fish- 
ermen's houses, where parties out late sometimes stay over 
night ; but of regular accommodation, there is an entire 
lack. 

In the middle of the lake, 12 miles from Caldwell, lies 
Doom or Twelve-mile Island, where Secretary Seward's 
Saint Thomas earthquake was falsely reported to have spent 
a day or two on its northern tour last summer. The story 
was " manufactured out of whole cloth ;" no volcanic dis- 
turbance has been known upon it. 

Caldwell is a place of no interest to the tourist, save for 
its ruined Revolutionary forts. Fort William Henry stood 
upon the ground now occupied by the hotel bearing its 
name. An inhuman massacre of 1500 men of Colonel Mon- 
roe's (English) garrison, by Indians allied with the French 
army, occurred here August 9th, 1757. About a mile south- 
east from the site of Fort William Henry are the ruins of 
Fort George, which we shall i)ass on the road to Glenn's 
Falls. 

There are two first-class hotels at Caldwell, where Lake 
Horicon ends. The Fort William Henry Hotel, Daniel 
Gale, proprietor, we can commend as excellent in table 
and rooms. A band of music is employed during the 
height of the season, and the piazzas in front command a 



204 LAKES, EIYEHS, A]S"D MOUXTAIXS. 

priceless view of tlie lake. At the steamboat dock, a few 
steps down from the piazza, row-boats maybe bad in abun- 
dance, upon reasonable terms. Terms of this bouse, §4 
per day, $25 per week ; accommodations for say 350 guests. 
The Lake House is another excellent house, whose piazza 
commands a fine view of the ruins of Fort George, the 
French Mountain, and Rattlesnake Hill, and of the islands 
and hills down the lake. Terms, $18 to $25 per week ; 
rooms for 150 guests. Besides these two chief houses, 
there are several smaller inns or taverns, chiefly frequented 
by the residents of the region, for whom Caldwell is an 
important halting-place on the great water-route between 
Albany and the north country. 

Before we bid farewell to Lake Horicon, we should 
assure our nature-loving readers of a pleasure upon the 
water near the echoing, hills, close to Caldwell. About 1 
mile from the steamboat dock, a merry row-boat party ^vill 
find the shores of the lake flinging back their songs and 
laughter with delightful insolence ; and a little attention, 
will discern four distinct and ringing echoes, apparently 
from all points of the compass. A more serene enjoyment 
than a row on this lake, just after tea and before daylight 
has wholly withdrawn, can hardly be commended to a 
tourist in America. 

The Road to Moeeatj. — Let us again urgently entreat, 
dear reader, that our experience may persuade you to make 
up a party for an early ride to Glenn's Falls. The regular 
stage leaves the Fort William Henry at 7 A.ir. — the same 
time taken by the boat for Fort Ti; but if a sufficient 
number of passengers are booked the night previous, mine 
host will see that yon go as early as 4 o'clock, which 
enables you to connect at 8.19 at Moreau with the train 
reaching Albany at 10.50 A.M., ISTew-York 5.15 p.m. Regu- 



LAKES, EIYEES, AND MOUNTAINS. 205 

lar fare from the liotel to Moreau, $1.50 ; and if a wliole 
stage-load (say 12) take this extra stage, tliere will not (as 
otherwise tliere will) be extra cliarge. The start is an 
early one ; but the back glances at the lake, from the top 
of the stage, as the morning sun glorifies it, are worth a 
day's journey. One experience of each of the two morning 
stages, has more than satisfied the present writer of the 
value of the above advice. 

Four miles from the lake, we pass a dark glen, in which 
lie hidden the storied waters of Bloody Pond, and close by 
is the historic old boulder, remembered as Williams's Rock. 
Near this last-mentioned spot. Colonel Williams, founder 
of Williams College, in Massachusetts, was killed in an 
engagement with the French and Indians, September 8th, 
1775. The slain in this unfortunate battle were cast into 
the waters near by, since called Bloody Pond. It is now 
quiet enough, under its surface of slime and dank hlies. 

Glenn's Falls, 9 miles from Horicon, was the scene (1860) 
of one of those devastating fires which seem for some years 
to have been preparing the Empire State for the visit of 
Mr. Seward's earthquake. The village, with a population 
of 5000 souls, was one of the most universally admired in 
the State ; and its rebuilding has even added to its ele- 
gance. It stands upon a fall in the upper Hudson, from 
which it takes its name. The passage of the river is 
through a rude ravine, in a descent of 75 feet over a rocky 
precipice of 900 feet in length. The water descends in a 
succession of leaps over rugged rocks, amid which it boils 
and foams, spurts and thunders, in magnificent style, espe- 
cially when the river is in full-flood, as it finds its way 
through the wild ravine, and emerges into the quiet lands 
below. Within the roar of these rapids were laid some of 



206 LAKES, ElVEES, AND MOUNTAINS. 

the scenes in Fenimore Cooper's novel of the Last of the 
Mohicans. 

The ride over the plank road beyond the falls is a mat- 
ter of no especial interest, and is only valuable for inducing 
an appetite, if you left the lake lunchless. Perhaps this 
is not a merit ; for when we reach Moreau Station, we find 
a good country breakfast smoking on the table for us, and 
only about four minutes to eat it in. There is a capital 
restaurant in the union railway depot at Troy, but the trains 
connect too closely to allow more time here, and the next 
available eating-point will be Poughkeepsie. A four-min- 
ute breakfast, therefore, or a hurried lunch before leaving 
Horicon, must be counted in the price of this sunrise. 

LAKE ISIAHOPAC AND VICINITY. 

Of inland lakes or watering-places within a few miles' 
ride of the great metropolis, none is more popular as an 
elegant resort than Lake Mahopac. By the Harlem Rail- 
way, one may go in 2 hours to Croton Falls, (51 miles, fare 
$1.50,) whence stages (5 miles west, 75 cents regular fare) 
run in less than an hour to the hotels and boarding-houses 
on the shores of the lake. There are three first-class 
hotels : Gregory's, Thompson's, and Baldwin's. Gregory's 
(L. H. Gregory, proprietor) is the best known of the three, 
lighted with gas, and having telegraph and mail facilities 
within its grounds ; rooms for 250 to 300 guests ; terms, 
$4 per day, $21 to $25 per week. At either Thompson's 
(X. L. Thompson, proprietor) or Baldwin's (R. D. Baldwin, 
proprietor) there are accommodations for as many more 
boarders, at terms ranging from $18 to $21 per week, $4 
per day. Bowhng and billiards may be enjoyed at these 
two houses. New-York papers arrive at all the hotels at 



^ ^ 



LAKES, EIYERS, AXD MOUXTATIvS. 207 

11 A.:m. from Peekskill. Tlie season begins about June 1st, 
and continues four montlis ; a few people come as eaiij as 
May. Post-office address, Maliopac, Putnam county, Xew- 
York. Besides tbese hotels, there is a large number of 
boarding-houses, able to accommodate some 500 persons. 
The estimate we have given of the hotel capabilities is a 
comfortable minimum ; many more persons could be 
packed away on occasion, but the hotels at Mahopac are 
not Saratoga trunks. For example, Mr. Gregory has sup- 
plied 500 people with dinners on a single day, and the 
other two houses are capable of similar phenomena. Slos- 
son's, at the east end, and Dean's, near the outlet, (west,) 
are the chief of the boarding-houses, and are capable of 
keeping 135 guests each, at §12 or $15 to $18 per week. 
The smaller houses ^^ill charge about §10 to §15. 

Lake Mahopac is very beautifully situated, 11 miles 
from the Hudson at Peekskill, and 2 from the Croton 
River, at an elevation of about 1000 feet above tide-water 
and 700 or 800 above Croton Dam. It has no inlet, being 
spring-fed, like Seneca. The outlet is on the western 
side, and discharges the waters into Croton River just 
above the great dam. There are three islands in the lake, 
called Blackberry, Petrie, and Fairy Islands — the latter the 
smallest, but boasting an elegant cottage. Petrie has an 
area of 10 acres, and is the favorite picnicking ground. 
The other island is of four times this extent. There is 
some fishing in the lake, chiefly for black bass. The 
roads, and the farming country through which they pass, 
are excellent and attractive. The favorite drives are to 
Croton Dam and Water- works, 16 miles south ; Carmel, 
county-seat of Putnam, 5 miles north-east ; Somers, over 
in Westchester county, etc. But the great charm of this 
resort is in the fact that it is the centre, chief, and reser- 



208 LAKES, EIVERS, AND MOUXTAINS. 

voir (with two exceptions) of a group of 22 lakes, lying 
within a circumference of 12 miles radius. All hut 3 or 4 
of these lakelets feed the famous river which supplies the 
metropolis with its drinking-water; and Lake Mahopac, 
being one of these, presents therefore an additional attrac- 
tion in the beauty and sweetness of its contents. Mahopac 
is nearly circular in form, 2 miles in diameter, but about 

9 miles in circumference, owing to the deep indentations 
which it makes at many points. There is a good road 
lying along the shore for about half this circumference, 
and it is intended to complete it soon for the entire dis- 
tance. 

The nearest of the lakelets are but a few rods distant 
from Mahopac, as follows : Kirk, 20 rods west, 1 mile long ; 
Mud, 50 rods east, -I- of a mile in diameter ; Wixon, ^ a 
mile north, same size; and Carmel (north) and Gilead, 
(south-east,) 3 miles distant, each about 1 mile by ^- a mile 
in extent. Besides these, we may name more particularly 
several of the larger lakes of the group. 

OsKEWANNA Lake. — Oskewanna Lake is 8 or 9 miles 
distant from Peekskill. 

Mr. Lee has established a hotel here, with rooms for 150 
guests ; terms, $3 per day, $10 to $14 per week. 

Osceola Lake. — Between Lakes Mahopac and Mohegan, 
5 miles from the former, at Jefferson Valley, lies Osceola 
Lake, about |- of a mile in diameter. 

Jacob's Hotel here was built last summer, and will 
accommodate 50 boarders — probably at $15 per week. 

Lake Mohegan. — Lake Mohegan is at Jefferson Valley, 

10 miles south-west of Mahopac, on the Peekskill road. 
There is a boarding-house here (Mr. Jones's) capable of 

keeping 30 or 40 persons; terms, $3 per day, $15 per 
week. 



f 



LAKES, RIVERS, AXD MOUXTAIXS. 209 

Lake Wacabac — 4^- miles east of Katonali Station, on 
tlie Harlem Railway, lias a new hotel, (Mead's,) where 
some 75 people may find entertainment for $3 per day, §10 
to $15 per week. 

Peach Lake. — This is about as far from Croton Falls 
Station as Wacabac from Katonah, and Vail's Hotel 
resembles Meade's in size and charges. These two lakes 
are each less than a mile in diameter. 

CHATTTAUQTJA LAKE. 

Chantanqua is furthest west of the many " eyes of the land- 
scape" which brighten the face of the great Empire State. 
It lies in Chautauqua county, which is bounded on two 
sides by Pennsylvania, and is 18 miles long by 1 to 3 in 
width. It is said to be the highest navigable water on 
the American continent, being 730 feet above Lake Erie, 
and 1290 above the Atlantic Ocean. Steamboats run from 
Maysville, at its northern extremity, to the commencement 
of the outlet, whence small boats can descend to the Alle- 
ghany River. The name it bears is a corruption of an 
Indian phrase, signifying " a foggy place," and was given 
in consequence of the mists which frequently rise from the 
surface of the lake. 

Hotels. — At Maysville, the Fox House, by Horace Fox. 
Besides this, the same proprietor opened last year a hotel, 
with rooms for 50 or 60 guests, near the depot, and on the 
very shore of the lake, called Chautauqua Lake Honse. 
Besides the steamer which plies regularly between Mays- 
ville and Jamestown, there is a neat and commodious 
steamer for pleasure parties, who wish " to do the lake " 
more extensively. Maysville is one of the most healthful 
and delightful places of resort in the State, retired and 



210 LAKES, EIYERS, AXD MOUNT AIXS. 

select. The Atlantic and Great Western Railway trains 
stop at Jamestown, wliicli is at the southern extremity of 
Chautauqua, 449 miles from New- York (changing from 
Erie Railway at Salamanca). The home residence of Grov- 
ernor Fenton may be seen from the car- windows on the 
left, going west, at this station. 

CANANDAIGITA LAKE. 

Among the " interior lakes," navigable, of the State of 
New- York, is included Canandaigua Lake. This beautiful 
sheet of water lie-s 668 feet above tide-water, chiefly within 
Ontario county, but overpassing slightly the north-western 
boundary of the county of Yates ; thus being nearly paral- 
lel with Crooked Lake, which lies to the south-east, both 
forming with Seneca and Cayuga a sort of inverted Y upon 
the map. Canandaigua and Crooked Lakes are 12 miles 
apart. 

Canandaigua is the point of arrival for this lake, and is 
upon both the New- York Central and Erie routes. The 
" Auburn," or " Old Road " of the Central, brings the pas- 
senger to Canandaigua, 75 miles west from Syracuse, 223 
from Albany. The Erie Railway connects with Canan- 
daigua by the Northern Central, formerly called at this 
section the " Canandaigua Branch " of the Erie, from El- 
mira. The Northern Central makes nearly a due northerly 
course from Harrisburg, Pa., through Williamsport, Pa., 
and Elmira and Watkins, N. Y., (see article on Sexeca 
Lake,) to this town. 

A steamboat makes eight trips between Canandaigua 
and Naples (on the inlet, 4 miles above the lake) each day. 

The shores are generally high and rocky, forcing the 
settlements back from the water some distance. At Seneca 



LAKES, ElYERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 211 



Point, 10 miles from Canandaigua, there is a landing, and 
a pleasant summer hotel called the Lake House, Mr. C. D. 
Castle, landlord. Terms, $2. 50 to $3 per day ; $12 to $15 
(probably) per week. This house boasts fine ball and bil- 
liard-rooms, and a half-mile track near it, with a beautiful 
grove. There is also a deep glen, 2 miles long, in the vi- 
cinity ; and Canandaigua is well-known for its gas-springs, 
chiefly in the hollows at Bristol, East-Bloomfield, and Rich- 
mond. There is also a sulphur-spring at Canandaigua. 

SENECA LAKE-THE WATKINS GLEN. 

The principal watering places within a reasonable dis- 
tance of New- York have been so thoroughly visited and 
digested that the pleasure-seeking public sigh for some 
new world to conquer, or some new place to " do." Not 
all of our roaming citizens are ignorant of the beautiful 
place which we are about to describe, and there is but one 
opinion as to its enchanting beauty among those who have 
seen it. 

The village of Watkins is situated at the head of Se- 
neca Lake, distant about 11 hours' ride from New- York. 
The route thither from this city is by the Erie Railway to 
Elmira, and thence by the Northern Central of Pennsyl- 
vania to Watkins— 22 miles north. The village itself is a 
thriving, well-to-do town of some 3000 inhabitants, with 
two large, excellent hotels — the Jefferson House and the 
Fall Brook House — and several smaller ones. It lies on 
the level valley close about the south-west corner of the 
lake, creeping up the hill-side, and extending along the 
shore. 

The Grlen, of which we design more particularly to 
write, is a deep gorge in the hill, through which a stream 



212 LAKES, EIVERS, AND MOUXTAIXS. 

of water tumbles, and readies the plain at tlie sontli end 
of the Tillage. Passing up the main street, which is called 
Franklin, about half a mile from our hotel, we turn 
abruptly to the right and enter a huge amphitheatre, 
whose lofty walls of perpendicular rock seem to hang 200 
or 300 feet above our heads. At the upper (west) end, 
these walls approach close together and seem to join, but, 
in fact, they lap, and between their jaws, by a winding, 
intricate stairway, we ascend, and are within what is 
called the First Glen. A narrow path has been cut in the 
rocks by which we walk along somewhat timidly, step- 
ping here and there on a stray speck of stmshine, which 
has leaked through a crevice in the rocks. Looking ttp, 
we see that the rocks, at a dizzy height, have sloped 
inwardly, so as almost to meet at the top. Trees grow 
thickly on the brink and clinging to the walls. What 
with the trees and impending rocks, very little sunlight 
finds its way within, and the result is a grateful one on 
a hot day. This Glen is a trifle less than a quarter of 
a mile in length, and at its upper extremity has a beautiful 
waterfall of some 70 or 80 feet in the clear. Ascending 
an almost perpendicular stairway of 50 odd steps, directly in 
the face of this fall, we climb up the baak, and after rest- 
ing awhile at the Mountain House, a well-kept refresh- 
ment saloon, where sometimes 500 thirsty visitors are 
''creamed" and " lemonaded " at once, we proceed with 
our journey. The Second Glen is as quiet and gentle as 
the first was romantic and wild. It is about 1000 feet in 
length, with a perfectly level floor, over which the stream 
is spread not half an inch deep. The sides are of lofty, per- 
pendicular rock, and of a perfectly oval form. It is called 
the Amphitheatre, and the name is even more appropriate 
than at the entrance, where we used it. At the upper end 



^ ^/ 



LAKES, EIYERS, AXD MOUXTAIjSTS. 213 

is a fall similar to the one at the head of the glen heloTV, 
over which we pass and visit in succession the Third, 
Fourth, and Fifth Glens, each one noted for its romantic and 
peculiar grandeur. The scenery is no less v^ild than in 
the First Glen, but the rocky walls are not so high. On the 
other hand, they are much nearer together — in some places 
it being almost possible to touch both sides with the ex- 
tended hands — while the stream passionately foams and 
rushes through its smooth channel below. The succession 
of cascades, pools, rapids, and lofty falls in endless pro- 
fusion almost bewilders the visitor, and he finds it impos- 
sible to keep the run of all of them. In the Fourth Glen is 
a beautiful fall called the Rainbow Fall, formed by water 
from the hill-side trickling down the mossy bank. The 
path lies behind and under this fall, and, when the sun 
strikes the water, the prismatic effect is Yerj beautiful. 
We have now traveled about a mile and a half from the 
plain, and having come to the end of our journey, turn 
back by the same path, as far as the Mountain House. 
After our up-hill journey, we are not unwilling to sit down 
for a few minutes, and can well employ the time with the 
stereoscope in looking over a series of 47 photographs of 
the various scenes of interest on our trip, which are as 
fine specimens of out-door photography as are taken in 
this country. 

At the Mountain House we leave the ravine and climb 
the mountain which forms its side. When we get to the 
top, a splendid panorama greets our eye. Directly at our 
feet, some 500 or 600 feet below us, lies the AT.llage. It 
seems so near, that imagination almost furnishes the con- 
versation to our ear, between those two men at the corner, 
or of that innocent flirtation in yonder shady lawn. Be- 
yond the village, stretching away in front of us for more 



214 LAKES, EIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 

than 20 miles, is Seneca Lake — its deep, never-freeziog 
waters, of a deep sea-green, sparkling and rippling in the 
sun. The hills on either side slope gently down to the 
water and are cultivated to the very shore. Within a few 
years it has been discovered that the west bank offers admi- 
rable facilities for grape culture, and hundreds of acres are 
now laid out as vineyards. 

The hills about Watkins afford an almost endless suc- 
cession of drives, on which new and constantly changing 
scenery unfolds like a panorama. The air is pure and 
bracing, and the fierce heat of the mid-summer sun is tem- 
pered by the gentle breezes wafted over the waters. 

There are two remarkable characteristics of Seneca 
Lake. First, its great depth. The lake has been sounded 
in some parts, and bottom found at a depth of over 700 feet. 
In other places the same length of line fails to reach the 
bed. The bottom at some points goes off almost perpen- 
dicularly, and the writer of this sketch has dropped a 
l^lummet, not 50 feet from shore, to the depth of over 150 
feet before reaching bottom. Another peculiarity is, that 
the lake never freezes. But twice within the recollection 
of the inhabitants have the boats been stopped running by 
ice. One occasion was in 1855, and the other during the 
past winter. On neither of these occasions, however, has 
the entire surface been covered with ice ; only about one 
third of the length at each end becomes frozen, leaving 10 
or 12 miles of open water in the centre. The writer has 
passed over the lake in a steamboat, from dock to dock, in 
January, with the thermometer marking 10° below zero, 
and not seen enough ice in the water to cool a pitcher-full. 

There are two passenger-boats on the lake, which make 
semi-diurnal trips from Watkins to Geneva ; the A. W. 
Langdon, which leaves Watkins for Geneva about 8 



LAKES, EIVEES, AKD MOUNTAINS. 215 

o'clock in the morning, and returning, leaves Geneva at 4 
P.M., and the D. S. Magee, Capt. D. P. Dej, which leaves 
Geneva at 9 a.m., and Watkins at 8 p.m. The Magee is 
the favorite with travelers generally, her accommodations 
being delightfully cozy and her table superb. 

The most direct route to Watkins from New- York City 
is by the Erie Railway to Elmira, 274 miles ; there chang- 
ing to the Northern Central of Pennsylvania, (whose trains 
connect with those on the Erie,) north 22 miles to Wat- 
kins. Tickets can be bought from New- York to Geneva 
for $7.25, the same fare as to Watkins, (Geneva being a 
competing point on the New- York Central,) and the tourist 
at his leisure can go down the lake. Under the present 
competition, however, it is cheaper to buy a ticket on the 
Erie to Rochester for $5, leave the cars at Elmira, and pay 
65 cents thence to Watkins. The Northern Central runs 
through Watkins to Canandaigua, where direct connec- 
tions are made with the New- York Central trains, makino: 
this the shortest route from New- York to Niagara Falls. 

CAYUGA LAKE AND TAGHKANIC FALLS. 

If, years ago, a distinguished poet remarked of Tren- 
ton Falls, that it was " a niche in the long corridor of 
travel between Albany and Buffalo — a side-scene out of 
ear-shot of the crowd — a recess in a window, whither you 
draw a friend by the button for the sake of chit-chat at 
ease," surely the well-informed tourist will hesitate to re- 
peat the words at that popular resort now. They more 
fitly belong to the lakes Seneca and Cayuga — more, too, 
to the latter than the former. Trenton Falls are but a 
railway-step from one of the most prominent cities of the 
State ; these twin lakes lie upon that out-of-the way, indi- 
rect, unpopular branch of the Central Railway known as 



216 LAKES, RIVERS, A]N"D MOUNTAINS. 

" tlie Old Eoad." Thanks to tlie wealth, and elegance of 
Geneva, and to the growing fame of the Watkins Glen, 
Seneca Lake is now tolerably well-known to tourists ; but 
the charms of Cayuga have hitherto been proclaimed only 
by local writers, and too often escape the notice of the loi- 
terer along the " corridor." The two lakes are marvel- 
ously similar, in length, width, direction, and even the 
general manner of their scenery ; while at the southern 
extremity each has her own peculiar attraction, yet with 
the same almost amusing evidence of tv\inshix3. Seneca 
has a rocky, wooded ravine, whose attraction is in its walls 
ajid passages ; Cayuga has a ravine, too ; but here the 
vv^onder is at the waterfall, the highest in the State. The 
two ravines, like the two lakes, are the complements of 
each other, and the tourist will be sure of repentance 
some day if he miss seeing them both. 

Cayuga, like Seneca Lake, is reached best by the Xew- 
York Central Railway, though it is also approached from 
the Erie side. Route from New-York City : Hudson River 
to Albany or Troy ; Central Railway to Syracuse direct, 
where passengers for Auburn, Cayuga, Geneva, etc., change 
cars. Time, (all-rail,) 13} hours ; regular fare, (consider- 
ably less in summer,) $7. Cayuga Station (refreshment- 
saloon in the building) is at the foot of the lake, and steam- 
boats (Aurora and Kate Morgan) leave at 9 A.M. and 3 
P.M. for Ithaca. The wharf is but a few steps from the 
rail-track ; the railway crosses the extreme nortli end of 
the lake a little beyond this station. 

By the Erie Railway, one leaves Chambers Street (Pa- 
vonia) Ferry, New- York, at 7 p.m., and changes at Owego 
to train leaving for Ithaca at 5.51 A.M., where it connects 
with the steamboats leaving for Cayuga at 7 A.M. and 3 
P.M Fare to Ithaca, $7.50 ; to Cayuga, $8.40. 



LAKES, EIVEES, AND MOUNTAINS. 217 

Leaving Cajiiga, and going up the lake toward tlie 

south, (for the stranger must remember that the waters of 
New- York State are on the northerly side of the Alleghany 
water-shed, and so flow from the south toward the Saint Law- 
rence and the North- Atlantic,) the first landing is Spring- 
port. On the outcropping (upper Helderberg) limestone 
blujQf here, the present Emperor of the French made his 
camping-ground for some time during his residence in 
America. The town is a beautiful one, like all its fellows 
here, and boasts a mill-pond which is wholly fed by 
springs, like Lake Seneca. Aurora, next landing, is con- 
sidered the prettiest town in New- York State ; and whether 
Louis Napoleon gave the first impulse or not, its people 
certainly resemble the Parisian government in driving 
from its borders, as fast as possible, all evidence of poverty 
or toil. Thus one can almost see the wrathful glances of 
these haughty townsfolk toward a large iron factory which 
alone mars the beauty of the bank. There are a number 
of very fine residences visible from deck, of which Colonel 
(ex-Congressman) Morgan's is the chief. The residence 
of Mr. W. H. Bogart, the "Sentinel" of the Wo7'ld,ds 
somewhat inappropriately located on this inland shore. 
Further on, across the lake, near Frog Point, or Trumans- 
burg, as the landing for Taghkanic Falls is unmelodi-- 
ously named, the effect produced by several of the many 
wild ravines of this region will be noticed. They come- 
down the sloping bank of the lake at such regular inter- - 
vals as to induce the fancy of great building-lots, devised 
by Nature for the benefit of imaginative real-estate asso- 
ciations. But the chief ravine, whose present misnomer 
is Halsey's Creek, will demand and receive more interested 
consideration. 

Taghkanic Falls. — The tourist may land here, visit 



218 LAKES, EIVERS, AND MOUXTAIX^. 

the falls liurriedly, and get back to the wharf in time 
to take the same boat, after it has completed its trip to 
Ithaca and returned hither. A wiser course, however, 
will at least be to spend a day at the falls. Leaving the 
boat, you find a stage ready to convey you up the steep 
hill (1 mile — 25 cents) to the Taghkanic House, just in 
front of Taghkanic Falls, the highest in -jSrew-York 
State. Mr. J. S. Halsey is landlord here, and has the repu- 
tation of keeping an excellent country hotel ; terms, 
§2.50 per day, §14 per week. Post-office address, Tru- 
mansburg, Tompkins County, New- York. Telegraph sta- 
tion at Ithaca, 10 miles. Families may be especially re- 
commended hither. 

Halsey, or Taghkanic, Creek is one of the largest of 
the water-courses which intersect the fertile farming-lands 
lying between the twin lakes, Cayuga and Seneca. Tak- 
ing its rise in the highlands midway between them, it 
flows in an easterly course, until at length it unites its 
waters with those of the calm Cayuga. Flowing with a 
gradual and gentle descent through a rich and flourishing 
country, its banks are dotted with numerous mills and 
manufacturing establishments, until, at the distance of a 
mile and a half from the lake, it would appear that Na- 
ture had determined to check its further progress by erect- 
ing an impassable barrier. This is a rocky ledge, rising 
some 50 or 60 feet directly in the path of the little river. 
But the stream has succeeded in excavating for itself a 
channel from 100 to 400 feet in depth, and 400 feet across 
at its lower extremity. Through this yawning chasm, 
which is properly the Taghkanic rapine, the victorious 
waters hurry on to the precipice, half a mile further 
down, where, on account of a difference in the structure 
of the rock, while the height of the banks remains iin- 



LAKES, EIYERS, Al^D MOUNTAINS. 219 

diminished, the stream falls iDerpendiciilarly 215 feet into 
a rocky basin, thus forming a cataract more than 50 feet 
higher than Niagara. 

The jagged rock rift, through which the river rolls be- 
fore it makes the plunge, is some 200 feet in depth, the 
rocky channel becoming a triangle at the brink, and the 
water plunges some 215 feet (as already stated) more to 
the bottom, where the ravine is upward of 400 feet per- 
pendicular. " The fall is, in truth," says Dr. George B. 
Cheever, who visited the place in 1859, " the Staubbach 
of Switzerland most absolutely reproduced, and of con- 
centrated beauty and grandeur." 

To obtain the best view of the falls, it is necessary to 
descend to the bed of the ravine, and follow it upward 
until we stand at the foot of the precipice. The descent 
is a very wearisome and displeasing one, being over seve- 
ral very rickety, ill- made wooden stair- cases, which occupy 
one's closest attention ; but the ramble up the ravine is 
extremely entertaining. The visitor will also be amply 
repaid for a journey along the base of the cliflp to the lake 
— if, indeed, he will not find a walk of a mile by that way 
preferable to the tedious climb up the pseudo-stairway 
again. A visit to the ravine and Upper Fall above, par- 
ticularly to the point of the triangle over which the wa- 
ter of the chief fall leaps, is also indispensable to a com- 
plete comprehension of Taghkanic. 

Ithaca is the principal town on Cayuga Lake, 38 miles 
from Cayuga, and is the southern terminus of the lake 
and our journey over it. 

There are 15 falls in and about the town of Ithaca, namely. 
Fall Creek, 150 feet ; Forest, 70 ; Foaming, 70 ; Rocky and 
Triphammer ; all on the same stream, (Fall Creek ;) En- 
field, 160, on Five-Mile Creek ; three on Buttermilk Creek, 



220 LAKES, EIYERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 

the second called by its name, and tlie third the Pulpit 
Fall ; the three being respectively 130, 100, and 30 feet in 
height ; the three falls on Lick Brook, of which the high- 
est quite rivals Taghkanic, it is thought ; Well Fall, 50 
feet, otherwise called the Cornell, on Six-Mile Creek ; the 
Wisner, the second, 100 feet, and the third. Quarry, on the 
Cascadilla. 

The Clinton House, S. D. Thompson, proprietor, can ac- 
commodate 100 guests the year round. Terms, $3 per 
day. 

LAKE MOHEITSICK. 

Mohensick, together with its neighbors, Mahopac and 
Mohegan, is a tributary of the Croton. We msh that we 
could paint a picture or write a verse about Mohensick ; 
but the experience of Byles Gridley and his dead book 
constrains us to drop the brush and to let Pegasus go to 
grass, for there's plenty of it here. There was a very 
pretty picture of it in the Academy of Design, last winter, 
but the artist called it by its old Dutch sobriquet of 
Crum Pond. 

The lake lies about 6 miles east of Peekskill, and about 
900 feet above the Hudson. Its circumference is between 
4 and 5 miles, and from the hills, which surround it, there 
are some of the finest views our eyes have ever beheld. 
**' Far to the westward, through the haze, peak piled on 
peak and folded to the sky, the eternal hills sweep and 
spread and broaden like a dream. Grander than the ocean 
itself, there is nothing more majestic than where God 
sweeps his horizon with his glorious pencil of mountain 
blue." 

LAKE LUZERNE. 

Luzerne is 22 miles by the Adirondack Railway from 
Saratoga. This road was started 15 or 20 years ago with the 
design of going to Sackett's Harbor. It met a good many 



LAKES, EIVEES, AND MOUISTArN-S. 221 

reverses, and passed tliroiigli tlie hands of a number of 
American companies. In 1859, some wealtliv English, capi- 
talists took hold of it, but became frightened at the com- 
mencement of the war, and refused to put any more money 
into it. Finally, 2 or 3 years ago, Mr. Durant, of the Union 
Pacific Railway, came into it, and it was built to Luzerne 
and 3 miles beyond, and commenced running. A charter 
was obtained to run it from Saratoga to a point on Lake 
Ontario, a little above Cape Vincent. It is designed to 
have it pass the Adirondack Iron- Works, and develop 
those immense mines of the best ore in the world. It will 
also pass through a vast tract of great lumber wealth 
which has heretofore been inaccessible. The road runs 
from Saratoga straight up into the mountains. It ascends 
700 feet the first 6 miles, and toward Luzerne it is built 
over a succession of hills and gorges and streams that 
render the scenery exceedingly picturesc[ue. Sometimes 
the sandy peaks rise 70 or 80 feet above the track, and a 
few rods further the train will pass over a trestle-work at 
an elevation of as many feet from the valley below. One 
trestle-work is 1310 feet long, and 31 feet high in the 
highest part — much longer than the long trestle-work on 
the Athens line. The scene, in passing over the Sacan- 
daga, near where it joins the Hudson, is especially fine. 
The bridge must be 400 or 500 feet in length, and it is 96 
feet high from the bed of the river to the track. At one 
side, half the distance down, is a bridge, wliich used to be 
considered rather high, connecting with the wagon road, 
on a lower point of the side-hill. The railway passes 
within a mile of Corinth Falls. Above the Falls the river is 
expanded ; but as it approaches there, it contracts between 
the limestone rocks to a width of 50 feet, and leaps down a 
precipice 60 feet high, in one unbroken sheet. From the 
road are seen also the Catskills in the chstance on the 



222 LAKES, RIVERS, a:n"d mouxtaixs. 

soiitli-west, and tlie nearer Kaidairosseras Range on tlie 
east. . 

Arrived at Luzerne, we pass over tlie Hudson, wliicli, at 
the north of the bridge, rushes through a narrow gorge 
of rocks not more than 20 feet wide at places, expand- 
ing below the bridge over a level plain to a shallowness 
which enables one to ford it without much difficulty. From 
this high bridge it is said that a man once sprang into the 
rapids for fun ; and when he came out, he was so fright- 
ened that he declared that he '' wouldn't 'a done it agin 
for $5." 

Here, near the Hudson, in the same house which Gren. 
Dix occupied, Mr. Pierrepont, of Brooklyn, in honor of 
whom Pierrepont street in that city was named, resides. 
His magnificent residence on Brooklyn Heights overlooks, 
across the East River and the Battery, the mouth of the 
Hudson, where it is 2 miles wide. His summer residence 
here overlooks the Hudson, narrowed to a width of 20 feet. 

A little further along is Mr. George Rockwell's famous 
and favorite hotel, where venison and trout are a staple 
dish, and where the happiness of the host is in exact ratio 
to the appetite of his guests. Mr. Rockwell's two sons 
keep the best house on Lake George. 

And, by the way, it may be mentioned that this is a 
Tery picturesque route to Horicon. From Luzerne to the 
lake the stage ride is only about 10 miles, over a very 
pleasant road, while by Moreau it is 15 miles over wea- 
risome though beautiful road. 

There are about 150 people generally stopping for a 
time at Luzerne. Among other amusements they have 
picnics. You cross the lake in boats, and land at 
Stewart's Bridge. Thence you take wagons, drawn each 
by two yoke of oxen, by a winding road up the moimtain. 



LAKES, EIYERS, AND MOUXTAIKS. 223 

Mr. Lebeau, Congressman from Long Island, lias a 
beautiful summer residence oyerlooking Lake Luzerne. 
Out on tlie lake, rowing with his family, we found Mr. L. 
J. A. Papineau, of Montreal, the son of the leader of the 
Papineau Rebellion in Canada, in 1838. A reward being 
offered for his head, he escaped across the border in a tin 
box, in a peddler's wagon, with holes in it to supply air, 
and took refuge with Chancellor Walworth, of Saratoga. 

CEOTON LAKE. 

Croton Lake is most directly reached by the Harlem Eail- 
"way cars to Mount Kisco, a promising village 37 miles 
from New-York. The past few years have witnessed a 
remarkable increase in its size and importance. A new 
depot is now occupied, and a special train, leaving New- 
York at 6 P.:iki. (extended from White Plains) was estab- 
lished last year. Also, it may be mentioned, the Albany 
express makes this one of its stopping-places. The lake is 
about 3 miles westward, and the drive is very charming 
over a rolling country characteristic of Putnam county, 
and the eye is delighted with views of beautiful and diver- 
sified scenery. 

Winding along may be seen the sparkling Kisco, tracing 
its course through green meadows and leafy groves, until 
it finally joins the lake. Soon we reach the lake, most 
pleasantly situated in a valley ; it is about 6 miles long, 
with an average width of about one eighth of a mile. 

There is no hotel here, save at the Dam ; but a number 
of farmers, in the summer months, receive boarders. Excel- 
lent fare is obtainable, and moderate charges are the rule, 
not the exception. 

About 2 miles from the dam is Pine's Bridge, made his 
lorical from the well-known fact of its beinp: located near 



224 LAKES, EIVrES, AXD MOUXTAIXS. 

tlie spot where Major Andi'e crossed, the same dav of Lis 
capture, near Tarr}i:own. Close by this localitT are the 
summer residences of Mr. Dunscomb, and Mr. George E. 
L. Hyatt, merchant, of New- York. 

The shape of the lake is rather irregular, which we may 
attribute to its origin as a riyer ; this adds to its attraction 
by affording, by its many little coyes and miniature capes, 
a noyelty of scene as we sail in admiration oyer its surface. 
The yiews of the surrotmding country, especially from the 
summits of the neighboring hills, are yery attractiye. A 
yaried landscape of woodland scenery, and undulating hills 
clothed in emerald, or the golden hue of the ripening grain 
greet the eye, gently relieyed by the placid waters below. 

At the head of the lake, in the yicinity of a small moun- 
tain known as Muscoota, the scenery is quite wild and pic- 
turesque. 

Here may the true loyer of the country find scope for 
enjoyment ; for there is a charm in the seclusion and sere- 
nity of the place that can not fail to meet his sincere appre- 
ciation. Untrammeled with the social requirements, and 
remoyed from the glitter and fiiyolity of fashionable 
watering-places, he can here consult happiness and com- 
fort, and freely partake of the pleasure Xature offers to her 
yotaries. 

'• Eejoice, Croton I in thy summer pride, 
Decked forth in beauty as an Eastern bride. 
The gi'een hills round thee beam with aznre smiles, 
And fairy-like peep out thy sunny isles ; 
Thy placid bosom wooed with soft embrace, 
As heaven's own hues are mirrored on thy face, 
Dear as the charm we linger on to see, 
That marks the couch of sleeping iufancy. 
Then have I gazed, as if on beauty's cheek, 
Thy look so calm and gentle, pure and meek, 



LAKES, EIYEE3, AXD MOUXTAIXS. 225 

Breathing such love and tenderness, we might deem 
Earth's cares and frailties were "but all a dream ; 
The world shut out — no sorrow conld prevail 
Within the precincts of this peaceful Tale : 
For thy fair stream, soft mnrmnring as it flows, 
Soothes every wayward passion to repose ; 
'Mid bnsy Fancy's pictures we might dwell, 
And close our days within thy quiet dell." 



CEOOKED LAKE. 

There is no more pleasing summer retreat in tlie State 
of Xew-York tlian Crooked Lake, or, as tlie newspapers 
sav it is to be hereafter, Kenka Lake. It is accessible bv 
the Erie and Xorthem Central Railwavs through Elmira 
to Penn Tan. 23 miles beyond Watkins.and 319 from Xew- 
Tork Citv. Fare, $7.oO. A new steamboat is to be jjlaced 
upon the lake this summer, and will ply daily between 
Penn Tan, at the foot, or north end, and Hammondsport, 
ia Urbana township, at the head water, the latter the 
centre of the famous grape-growing and wine-making 
region. The sheltered situation of the hill-slopes about 
the foot of the lake affords peculiar opportunities for grape- 
culture. Both towns are of considerable imponance, and 
visitors will find ample hotel accommodations at low rates. 

The lake is situated within the limits of both Steuben 
and Yates counties, and is about 18 miles long, with a 
breadth at the greatest of 1| mUes. At the north end it 
is divided by a promontory of great beauty into two forks 
or branches, one 5, and the other 8 or 9' miles long. The 
scenery along the shores is of a very picturesque character, 
and the place is quite a favorite resort- with Western Xew- 
York people. 



226 LAKES, EIVEilS, AND MOUNTAINS. 

OWASCO LAKE. 

A favorite resort for Syracuse people is Owasco Lake, a 
beautiful sheet of water 11 miles long, and from one half 
to three quarters of a mile in breadth. It is situated in 
Cayuga county, and is much admired for the boldness of 
the bluffs which shut it in through much of its length. 
The steamboat Owasco makes daily trips from Moravia to 
Owasco Village. At the former place there are the Mora- 
via House and the Skidmore, the latter, we understand, 
being refurnished and refitted for this summer. Terms, 
about $2.50 per day ; $16 per week. Board may also be 
obtained at the farm-houses which mark the shore all 
through its length. There is a small hotel or tavern, call- 
ed the Bennington House, at Owasco, at the head of the 
lake, at which the most primitive prices which remain 
in this " greenback era " will be found. 

There are a number of places of interest to people 
desirous of quiet country retreats ; such are Martin's Cor- 
ners, Scipio, Smith's Corners, etc. Auburn, on the New- 
York Central Eailway, (under the head of which it may be 
found mentioned at length,) is 7 miles from the lake, and is 
its nearest railway station. It stands upon Owasco Outlet. 
Upon the eastern tributary of this stream, in the town of 
Moravia, is a cascade called Dry Falls, because it ceases to 
flow in the summer. A little below this invisible cascade 
is a circular recess in the face of the perpendicular pre- 
cipice, 42 feet deep, and surrounded by a limestone arch, 
55 feet high and 12 feet long. Upon this arch rises a lofty 
hill covered with trees of a primitive forest. There is 
much else of interest in and about the lake ; such as Mill 
Brook Fall, 80 feet high ; a large spring of highly inflam- 
mable gas, (carburetted hydrogen,) in the neighboring low- 
lands ; a quarry of fine flagging-stone, etc. 



:^ H ^ 






priit0s anir Malls* 




i v; 



SPEmGS AlsD FALLS. 



THE MINERAL SPRINGS OF lEW-TORK. 

The Empire State is tlie most notable in tlie Xortli for 
tlie abundance and excellence of its thermal and mineral 
springs ; the chief one, at Saratoga, having such attrac- 
tions as fairly to outrival the great cataract at the opposite 
extremity of the State in the interest of the summer tou- 
rist. Saratoga and Syracuse have the only important 
saline springs ; there are no chalybeate nor carbonated 
springs, and only one or two localities where thermal 
waters attract visitors. The other resorts belonging un- 
der this head are of the sulphur class, and are cjuite nu- 
merous. We shall consider all these separately below. 

SARATOGA SPRIKGS. 

Saratog-xS. is a town of about 8000 inhabitants, built up 
in a somewhat rambling and uneven manner, but with 
many pleasant streets overhung with shade-trees. About 
15,000 people visit it during the summer. 

How TO GET TO IT. — It is 32 miles above Albany, and 
on the route to Lake George. The Hudson River boats to 
Albany, and the Albany, Saratoga, and Whitehall Railway 
from Albany, is the pleasantest route from New- York. At 
Cohoes, on this railway, the Cohoes Falls can be seen from 
the west windows of the cars. Passengers from the West, 
East, and Xorth take the cars from Albany, or come down 
by way of Lake George. From the depot to Congress 



SPEIIN'GS AND FALLS. 



Springs, or to the large hotels, is only two or three min- 
utes' walk. 

The following is a table of distances from various cities 
in the Union to Saratoga Springs : 



3Iiles. 

Washington, 412 

New-York, 182 

Boston 232 

Philadelphia, 274 

Baltimore, 372 

Albany, 32 

Troy, 31 

Cincinnati, , 744 

Chicago 841 



Miles. 

Niagara, 311 

Quebec, 392 

Montreal, 212 

White Mountains, 322 

Portland, 340 

St. Louis, 1030 

Louisville, 876 

Richmond, 542 

New-Orleans, 2292 



The Rensselaer and Saratoga Railway passes through 
the village, connecting, at Troy, with the Hudson River 
and Harlem Railways from New- York ; at Albany, with 
the People's Line of Steamers on the Hudson River, and the 
Boston and Albany Railway from the east ; at Schenectady, 
with the New- York Central Railway from the west ; and 
at Rutland, with the Rutland and Burlington Railway 
from both north and east ; and at Whitehall, with the 
Lake Champlain steamers. Trains on the Rensselaer and 
Saratoga Railway run each way twice a day during the 
winter months, and three or more times a day during the 
summer months, connecting at above-named points with 
trains and steamers from all portions of the Northern, 
Eastern, and Western States, and Canada. Passengers by 
the day-boats on the Hudson River have a full view of the 
magnificent Highlands of the Hudson, and of the Catskill 
Mountains, and reach Saratoga the same evening. Lake 
Horicon, Lake Champlain, the Green Mountains, the Thou- 
sand Islands, Niagara Falls, Trenton Falls, Richfield, Sha- 
ron and Lebanon Springs, are all within a day's travel of 
Saratoga. 

The principal street of the town is Broadway, on which 



9 

3 




^^7 



SPRINGS AXD FALLS. 



are situated tlie large liotels, and wliicli leads to the Con- 
gress and Columbia Springs, and the Congress Spring 
Grove. 

This grove and park is owned and kept in order by the 
Congress and Empire Spring Company, and is exceedingly 
beautiful. A hill, in the shape of a horse-shoe, covered 
with handsome trees and laid out in smooth walks, encir- 
cles the low ground in which the spring is situated. 

At the other side of the grove is Circular street, on 
which are the handsomest residences in the place. There 
are also fine residences on Franklin street, on the upper 
and lower ends of Broadway, and on other streets. The 
two principal hotels. Congress Hall and Union Hall, stand 
opposite each other, near Congress Spring and Grove. A 
little further down, and with the Washington Spring in 
its grounds, is the Clarendon. ISTorth of Union Hall are 
the American Hotel and the Marvin House. 

THE HOTELS. 

Congress Hall. — The new hotel, which has just been 
completed, on the site of the old Congress Hall, (burned 
May, 1866,) is said to be the largest hotel in the country. 
It is situated on the east side of Broadway, with the Union 
Hotel opposite it on the west, and the Congress Spring and 
Grove opposite it on the south. It has a front of 400 feet 
on Broadway, and 800 feet on Spring street, and runs 
through from Broadway to Putnam street. The old Con- 
gress Hall had only 198 feet front. The new house is 
made so much larger by the addition of 41 feet on the 
south, bought from the grounds occupied by the Congress 
Spring bottling-house, and by the addition of 40 feet on 
the north, which was left by cutting through a new street. 
It stands upon a steep side-hill, so that there are two stores 



4 SPRINGS AXD FALLS. 

in the rear and a row of eleven stores at the south side, 
under the main or first floor. 

The foundations, which rest almost entirely upon the 
solid rock underlying Saratoga, were laid October, 1867. 
The new Congress Hall is built entirely of brick, and as 
an additional precaution against fire, has seven fire-proof 
brick walls extending through the whole structure, from 
foundation to roof ; so that if a fire should break out in any 
part, it could be checked before communicating with other 
parts of the house. The foundations are of iron, stone, and 
brick; and there is no connection by wooden timbers 
between the seven difierent compartments. 

The square space between the front building and the 
two wings is prettily laid out, and planted with trees, with 
a balcony overlooking it. The front of the building has a 
French roof ; and is five stories in height. The front piazza 
is 20 feet wide and 240 feet long on Broadway, and 14 feet 
wide and 60 feet long on Spring street. In the centre of 
the top is an observatory, carried up to the height of 
another story, containing additional rooms. It is 75 feet 
from the ground, thus affording a view of all the vicinity ; 
and being 60 feet in length by 48 feet in width, will accom- 
modate a large number of people who desire to sit in this 
elevated position and receive the benefit of the evening 
breezes. At the ends, also, are observatories, constructed 
in the same style with the one in the centre, 40 by 35 feet. 
These are elegantly designed, and add greatly to the 
beauty of the building. 

The house is built as a resort for the most fashionable 
people who visit the place. The rooms are large and com- 
modious. Every hall is 10 feet wide, running the whole 
length (400 feet) of the front on each floor. Every modern 
appliance for convenience, comfort, or luxury that can be 



SPEINGS AXD FALLS. 5 

found in any New- York liotel, is brought into requisition 
here. A row of tall and thriving elm-trees stands in front 
of the house. It has a beautiful dining-room, which can 
also be used as a ball-room, and has also very large parlors 
for nightly hoi^s. 

The building was erected by Mr. Henry H. HaT\i:horne, 
well known as one of the influential men of the place, and 
as the proprietor of the old Congress Hall. The wealthy 
citizens, appreciating the loss to the town by the burn- 
ing of Congress Hall, held several meetings, August, 1866, 
to take into consideration the subject of rebuilding it. 
It was finally decided that Mr. Hawthorne should give a 
mortgage of $400,000 on the building as completed, the 
furniture, the land, and also the land and buildings occu- 
pied for wash-house, etc., and that subscriptions should be 
taken for bonds based on this mortgage. The principal 
is payable in ten annual payments, commencing the first 
day of September, 1870, and included in the coupons. The 
mortgage was given and recorded, and subscriptions made 
by citizens, not only of Saratoga, but of Xew-York, Boston, 
Chicago, Cincinnati, St. Louis, Xew-Orleans, and other 
cities. 

The Congress opens on the 15th of June. The price is 
ordinarily $4.50 per day. It has 800 rooms, and accom- 
modates about 1200 people. 

The Uxiox Hotel. — This hotel, which is kept by the 
Leland Brothers, was the first hotel built at the Springs, 
and was commenced in the year 1800, and opened in the 
spring of 1802. It was built by Mr. Gideon Putnam, and 
was called Putnam's Tavern. It was surrounded by a 
wilderness ; there were only two or three cabins in the 
vicinity, and though it was then only 70 feet front, it was 
considered a very large building for such a place. Con- 



6 SPBINGS AND FALLS. 

gress Spring had been discovered only 8 years, (tliougli the 
High Bock Spring had been ^dsited by Sir William John- 
son 24 years previous ;) but Putnam was a Yankee from 
Sutton, Mass., and he saw there was a great future for the 
place. His sign at that time was a rudely-painted repre- 
sentation of the original General Israel Putnam entering 
the den of the wolf. Putnam died in 1812, and his two 
sons, Rockwell and Washington Putnam, kept it until 
1849. Mr. Henry H. Hawthorne, proprietor of the old 
Congress Hall and of the new Congress Hall, during that 
year bought out Rockwell's interest ; and in 1854 Mr. Ains- 
worth bought Washington's interest. In the fall it was 
sold to George Putnam, who kept it until 1864, when it 
was bought by Leland Brothers. It has received vast addi- 
tions and improvements, until it now covers with its wings, 
its grounds, its opera-house, and its adjacent buildings, a 
whole block of 7 acres. It is 650 feet in length. Its 
grounds are beautifully shaded by elms, under which the 
band plays every afternoon ; its broad piazzas and elegant 
parlors afford seats and promenades for crowds of splen- 
didly-dressed ladies. The interior of the opera-house is 
handsomer than any building in tovv^n. There is a large 
ball-room, and there are billiard and bowling-alleys for 
both ladies and gentlemen. The dining-room is 250 feet 
long, 53 feet ^^ide, and 20 feet high, and will seat 1200 
people. 

The Union can accommodate 1200 people easily. Mr. O. 
G. Brown, with all the details of 800 rooms continually in 
his mind's eye, disposes of the guests in the most affable 
and expeditious manner, no matter how many there are, 
or how excited they may be ; and Dr. Del Corral, who 
understands half a dozen languages, hears the complaints 
of any of the foreign guests who prefer to express them- 



«■<. O v> 



SPEINGS AND FALLS. 7 

selves in tlieir native tongue. Warren, or William, or 
George Leland is always on liand, and nobody doubts the 
ability of any gentleman of tliat name " to keep a hotel." 

It ^\ill open June 1st. The price will be $25 per week, 
or $4.50 per day. 

The Clarexdon. — This hotel was built in 1860, and is 
kept by Charles Leland, who is also the lessee of the Delavan 
House, Albany. It is very aristocratic, and accommodates 
the wealthy visitors who prefer to keep a little outside of 
the whirl of gayety which characterizes the larger hotels. 
It is magnificently circled by elms, faces Congress Gfrove, 
and has the Washington, or Champagne, Spring in its 
grounds, from which one can get spring-water lemonades. 
It accommodates about 500 persons. It opens on June 
1st, with the same prices as the Congress. 

The Amekican. — This house is on the next block north 
of the Union, and is kept by Mr. Wm. McCaffrey. Mr. 
Breslin, who was associated with Mr. McCaffrey last sum- 
mer, has been captured by the Congress. The American 
is a very pleasant house, and accommodates about 350 
guests. It is open all the year round, with a scale of prices 
not quite as high as the larger hotels. 

Other Hotels and Houses. — The Marvin House will 
accommodate 250 ; the Continental, 200 ; the Columbian, 
200 ; the Pavilion, 100 ; the Everett, 100 ; the Washing- 
ton, 100 ; the Mont Eagle, 100 ; White's, 100 ; Dr. Hamil- 
ton's Medical Institute, 150; Dr. Strong's Water Cure, 
100; Dr. Bedortha's Water Cure, 150; Mrs. Wilbur's, 100; 
the Empire, 75 ; the Commercial, 75 ; the New-York, 50 ; 
the Broadway, 50 ; the Mount Pleasant, 50. 

At the water-cures, and at the Continental and Colum- 
bian, many clergymen and people who do not mingle in 
fashionable frivolities, make their headquarters. On 



8 SPEINGS AND FALLS. 

Franklin street tliere are a number of fine boarding- 
liouses, including Mrs. Weeks's and Mrs. Spooner's, and 
also many in tlie upper part of tbe town, wliitli are more 
quiet tban tlie hotels, and quite pleasant, with shaded 
piazzas and pretty croquet-grounds. Board can be ob- 
tained at prices ranging from $10 to $20 per week. 

THE SPRINGS. 

High Kock.— This spring is the first the waters of 
which were drunk by a white man, and it is the natural 
curiosity of Saratoga. It was visited by Sir William John- 
son in 1767, while Saratoga was yet a wilderness ; the In- 
dians bringing him to it on a litter, so that he might par- 
take of its healing waters. 

The water flows from an aperture, or cylindrical open- 
ing, a foot in diameter, in a conical-shaped rock, 3^ feet in 
height and 24^ feet in circumference. This rock is the 
result of the deposits of the mineral substance of the 
water. The water, flowing up through the centre, and 
running over its sides for hundreds of years, increased 
it to its present dimensions. At some jDeriod not long 
ago, when, as the Indians say, the Great Spirit became 
angry, the water ceased to flow over the rock, but re- 
mained at a short depth from the top of the opening, so 
that it could be dipped out. The cause of the stoppage 
of the overflow is explained on the more material theory 
that the rock was cracked by the fall of a tree. 

In 1866 — a century after its discovery by the white 
man — Messrs. Seymour and Ainsworth and William Mc- 
Cafii-ey bought the spring and made preparations to tube 
it. A slight excavation showed that the rock only ex- 
tended a few inches below the surface, and it was easily 



at) ^ 



SPRI^iJ-GS A2^T> FALLS. 



removed. ^Yitliin it was a cliamber about two feet in 
diameter, and below, a pit formed by the bubbling wai- 
ter, about 10 feet in depth, in which were found a large 
number of tumblers lost in dipping water. All around, 
the soil was filled with incrustations formed by the 
deposit from the water; but immediately beneath the 
rock lay the body of a tree, 18 inches in diameter, which 
still retained its form, and was sufficiently firm to be sawed 
in sections and pulled out. This tree must have fallen 
before the formation of the surface rock commenced, and 
had probably lain there hundreds of years. Several feet 
further down, the body of an oak, 8 inches in diameter, 
was found, which has suffered very little decay. 

The spring has been tubed down to the solid rock from 
which it flows; a tasteful pagoda has been erected over 
it, and a bottling-house by the side, and the water is now 
sold very extensively. 

Congress Sprizs-g. — More of the water of this spring is 
sold and drunk than of any other. It is owned by a com- 
pany, which also owns the Columbian and Empire Springs. 
It represents 200 or 300 stockholders, and has a capital of 
§1,000,000. The work of bottling is carried on day and 
night, the year round, except during a portion of the sum- 
mer season, when for certain hours of the day there is so 
much used that the supply is limited. For \'isitors, the 
water is dipped out by boys from the tube rising out of the 
ground under the pa\i.lion at the entrance of Congress 
Spring Park. For bottling, it is brought across the street 
through a pipe by a pump, worked by a small steam- 
engine. It enters a "drum," holding a few gallons, and 
from tills a tapering tube descends, which fits into the 
neck of the bottles. The bottles are filled one at a time, 
and immediately corked. About 4800 may be filled in 24 



10 SPEINGS AND FALLS. 

hours by steady work. 30,000 dozens of bottles of tlie Em- 
pire water were sold last year, and about 4000 dozens of 
the Columbian. 

The Congress Spring was discovered in 1792 — 25 years 
after Sir William Johnson visited the High Rock Spring. 
The discoverers were three gentlemen who were hunting 
in this valley, one of whom — John Taylor Gilman, of New- 
Hampshire — was then a member of Congress, which fact 
suggested the name of the spring. The low ground about 
the spring was then a swamp, and the mineral water 
issued in a small stream from an aperture in the side of 
the rock which formed the margin of the brook. 

It was caught by holding a glass to the side of the rock ; 
and as this means soon became insufficient to satisfy the 
demands of visitors, an effort was made to confine it. The 
result was the complete loss of the water for some time. 
Gideon Putnam, that enterprising settler of Saratoga, 
observed bubbles breaking up from the middle of the 
brook, a few feet south of the rock. He tm-ned the stream 
from its course, and dug down about 8 feet, when the min- 
eral water rose from several places in the marl. He pre- 
pared a square tube of planks, and, placing it over several 
of the little foimtains, replaced the earth around it, and 
thus secured the spring. It was first bottled as an article 
of merchandise in 1823, and is now sent to all portions of 
the world. 

Since then, springs have been developed all along the 
valley, commencing at the Washington Spking, in the 
grounds of the Clarendon Hotel, 600 feet south-west of 
Congress Spring. This w^as tubed by Gideon Putnam, 
but it was not imtil 1858 that the tube was extended down 
to the solid rock. A shaft, 11 feet square, was first sunk 
30 feet deep to the rock. The stream was then found to 



567 



SPKINGS AND FALLS. 11 

come from a lateral direction, and a tunnel was excavated 
30 feet long. At tMs point tlie earth gave way, and tlie 
water and gas flowed in so suddenly tliat tlie workmen 
were scarcely able to escape, leaving their tools behind 
them., In 15 minutes as much as 12,000 gallons of water, 
and twice the quantity of carbonic acid gas, filled the ex- 
cavation. A rotary pump, worked by a steam-engine, was 
incapable of removing the water, and a second shaft was 
sunk near the end of the tunnel. At the depth of 28 feet 
the water also burst into this, so that it had to be aban- 
doned. Still another shaft was then sunk, 20 feet in 
diameter, in a south-easterly direction from the others, 
and was held by a strong coffer-dam. When the rock was 
reached, two formations were found issuing from a fissure, 
one of these being tubed, the water soon rose to the 
surface. 

The Columbian SPRiNa is but a few rods south-west 
of the Congress, in the Congress Park. It contains much 
more iron than the Congress Spring, and is drunk during 
the day. Persons drinking it before breakfast are apt to 
have a headache ; while the Congress should only be 
drunk upon an empty stomach. 

About 30 rods to the north-east of the Congress, and in 
the rear of Congress Hall, is the Hamilton Spring. It is 
owned by Mrs. White, and is not bottled. 20 rods north 
of the Hamilton is the Putnam Spring, which is ap- 
proached through an alley-way from Broadway. It is a 
fine water, and has a bathing establishment connected 
with it. Still to the north is 'the Pavilion Fountain, 
which is situated in what was once called the Willow 
Walk, back of the site of the old Columbian Hotel, which 
was burned. The walk is now not much frequented, and 
the water not much used. Following the course of the 



12 SPRINGS AND FALLS. 

valley, tlie Flat Rock Spring was situated next, but it is 
now lost, having mostly disappeared when the Pa\ilion 
was tubed. The next spring to the north is the Seltzeh 
Spring, which was formerly called the Barrel Spring, for 
the reason that a barrel was first used to confine the 
water, which flowed over the ground. In 1865, the spring 
was tubed. After digging through 4 feet of muck, a solid 
mass of calcareous tufa was found, 4 feet in thickness, 
formed in the same manner as the High Rock, by the 
deposits of the water. 

An analysis showed it to be composed principally of 
carbonate of lime, carbonate of magnesia, oxide of iron, 
and silica. In the process of excavation, a birch-tree was 
also found in the calcareous deposit. This spring differs 
from the others in rising through a glass tube, 3 feet in 
height, over the rim of which it flows. The bubbles can 
be seen rising up through the tube, while at intervals of 
about a minute there is an excessive escape of gas, causing 
much larger bubbles and a greater agitation of the water. 
This spring is named the Seltzer, on account of the resem- 
blance of the water to the Seltzer of Germany. High 
Rock Spring, mth its water bubbling up through the 
aperture in the conical rock 4 feet high, is less than 100 
feet to the north. 

Stak Spring, formerly called the President and the 
Iodine, is a few rods north of the High Rock. Next to the 
north is the Empire Spring. The Saratoga A Spring is 
on the road leading to the Tea Springs. 

Excelsior Spring. — This is situated nearly 2 miles to 
the east of the hotels, and is one of 10 mineral springs, none 
of which are used except this. The tubing is 50 feet deep, 
to the Trenton lime-rock, through which it flows through 



^ 



SPEIXGS AND FALLS. 13 

several crevices. There is a beautiful walk through, a 
grove to tills spring, and also a pleasant drive. 

Other Sprii^gs. — The Eureka Spring is also still fur- 
ther from the town, and is surrounded by beautiful 
scenery. In South-Argyle, Washington county, to the 
east, there is a mineral fountain called Reed's Spring, the 
water of which, however, is not equal to that of Saratoga 
Springs. About 10 miles south-east of Congress Spring is 
Paradise Spring, formerly called Quaker Spring, which 
has been bottled in small quantities. About 2 miles 
south-west of the hotel is a spring near the railway track, 
at the westerly side of the embankment. It is only used 
by the people in the vicinity. 

Near the side of Saratoga Lake, opposite Moon's Lake 
House, there is a sulphur spring, which is sometimes vis- 
ited by persons driving around the lake. 

USE AND PROPERTIES OP THE SPRINaS. 

Directions are given in little circulars, at each of the 
springs, for their use. The Congress and Empire are used 
in the morning, as a cathartic. Drink leisurely two or 
three glasses, take a walk around the beautiful grounds, 
and returning to the spring, drink another glass or two, if 
you please, and be at breakfast in 20 to 30 minutes after ; 
but before eating, sip a cup of tea or coffee. The Colum- 
bian and Washington are drunk during the day. The 
Columbian should only be drunk in quantities of a glass 
or half a glass at a time, or headache is likely to result. 

The analysis of some of the principal springs is as follows : 

• 

HIGH ROCK SPRING. 
To one Gallon. ^ Grains. 

CMoride of Sodium 190.233 

Carbonate of Magnesia 62.100 



14 SPEIXGS AXD FALLS. 

Carbonate of Lime * 71.533 

Carbonate of Soda 18.421 

Carbonate of Iron 4.233 

Iodide of Soda 2.177 

Silex and Alumina 2.500 

Hydro-Bromate of Potash— a small quantity. 



Solid contents 351.19T 

COXGKESS SPEIXG. 
To one GaV.on. Grains. 

Chloride of Sodium 3S5.000 

Hydriodate of Soda 3.500 

Bi-Carbonate of Soda 8.982 

Bi-Carbonate of Magnesia 95.788 

Carbonate of Lime , 9.809 

Carbonate of Iron 5.0T5 

Silex and Alumina 500 

Hydi'o-Bromate of Potash— a trace. 



Solid contents in a GaUon 597.943 

Carbonic Acid Gas 311 cubic inches. 

Atmospheric Ail' 7 " " 

Gaseous contents in a Gallon 318 cubic inches. 

EMPIRE SPECsG. 
To one Gallon. Grains. 

Chloride of Sodium 269.696 

Bi-Carbonate of Lime, 141.824 

Bi-Carbonate of Magnesia 41.984 

Bi-Carbonate of Soda 30.&48 

Hydriodate of Soda or Iodine 12.000 

Bi-Carbonate of Iron— a trace. 



Solid contents in a Gallon 496.352 

Specific gravity 1.039 

Carbonic Acid Gas 315 cubic inches. 

Atmospheric Aii' 5 " " 

320 " 

C0LOIBIA^- SPEIXG. 
To one Gallon. Grains. 

Chloride of Sodium 267.00 

Bi-Carbonate of Soda 15.40 



56/ 



SPRINGS AND FALLS. 15 

!Bi-Carl3onate of Magnesia 46.71 

Hydrioclate of Soda 2.56 

Carbonate of Lime 68.00 

Carbonate of Iron 5.58 

Silex 2.05 

Hydro-Bromate of Potash — scarcely a trace. 

Solid contents in a Gallon 40T.30 

Carbonic Acid Gas 272.06 inches. 

Atmospheric Air 4.50 " 

, (( 

276.56 inches. 
EXCELSIOR SPRING. 
To one Gallon. Gj^ains. 

Chloride of Sodinm 370.642 

Carbonate of Lime 77.000 

Carbonate of Magnesia 32.333 

Carbonate of Soda 15.000 

Silicate of Potassa 7.000 

Carbonate of Iron 2.215 

Sulphate of Soda 1.321 

Silicate of Soda 4.000 

Iodide of Soda 4.233 

Bromide of Potassa— a trace. 
Sulphate of Strontia — a trace. 

Solid contents in a Gallon 514.746 

Carbonic Acid 250 cubic inches. 

Atmosphere 3 " " 

Gaseous contents 253 cubic inches. 

PUTXAM SPRING. 
To one GoMon. Grains. 

Chloride of Sodium 220.000 

Carbonate of Soda 15.321 

Carbonate of Magnesia 45.500 

Carbonate of Lime 70.433 

Carbonate of Iron 5.333 

Iodide of Soda 2.500 

Bromide of Potash — a trace. ■ 

Silex and Alumina 1.500 

Solid contents 360.587 



16 SPRINGS Al^B FALLS. 

Carl)oiuc Acid 317. 753 

Atmospheric Air 3.Q80 

Gaseous contents 320.833 

Temperature 48® 

HAMILTON SPRING. 
To one Gallon. Grains. 

Chloride of Sodium 298.656 

Carbonate of Soda 34.250 

Carbonate of Lime 97.996 

Carbonate of Magnesia 39.06G 

Carbonate of Iron 4.625 

Iodide of Soda 3.593 

Silex and Alumina 1.003 

Solid contents 479.191 

Carbonic Acid. 320.777 

Atmospheric Air 1.461 

Gaseous contents 322.233 

Temperature 48® 

The mineral waters, as will be seen, contam large por- 
tions of chloride of sodium, carbonate of soda, carbonate of 
lime, carbonate of magnesia, carbonate of iron, iodide of 
soda, and traces of silex, alumina, and bydrobromate of 
potasb. These solid contents passing over the ground, are 
precipitated, and form a rock, as is most wonderfully 
shown in the High Rock. The waters contain great 
quantities of carbonic acid gas, giving them the power of 
dissolving minerals, forcing them up, and agitating the 
top of the springs with bubbles by its continual escape. 
The waters may be used in making bread instead of yeast. 
The gas may be procured by preparing a bladder, securing 
to its mouth a stop-cock, fitting to this the small aperture 
of a large glass funnel, inverting the funnel over the 
spring, emptying the bladder of air, and allowing it to 
fill with gas. Press some of this gas into a tumbler, and, 



0^ sm ^ 

SPEINGS A]S^D FALLS. 17 

of course, a liglited candle will go out in it, and a mouse 
will die in it in less than a minute. The water is quite 
cold, and remains at the same temperature winter and 
summer. It becomes quite pleasant to the taste after a 
short time, and the inhabitants drink it to quench thirst. 

The water of some of the springs, and especially of the 
Excelsior, is put up and sent away in barrels, to be sold on 
draught, but it has been found very difficult to preserve 
the water in the condition in which it is drawn from the 
spring. In many of the drug-stores, where it is sold on 
draught ; it is necessary to charge it artificially with the 
carbonic acid gas which it has lost in transportation. The 
high price of mineral waters away from Saratoga is owing 
chiefly to the cost of the bottles and of transportation. 

The Congress and Empire Spring Company being una- 
ble to procure all the bottles which they needed, have es- 
tablished manufactories of their own at a village near 
Saratoga, which they have called Congressville, and will 
thus in future be able to supply the greater demand. If 
the water could be confined in large quantities so as to re- 
tain its gaseous and mineral qualities after transportation-, 
it could be sent away by hundreds of hogsheads, the flow 
from some of the springs being estimated at between one 
and two hundred gallons per minute. The flow of the 
Congress water, however, is not more than two quarts per 
minute, and but very little of it is now wasted. 

Drives. — The principal drive, and the only one patron- 
ized to any extent, is the dusty road to Moon's Lake House. 
This is a most delightful place on the shore of Lake Sara- 
toga ,which lies below, (down a steep hill,) and is spread out 
beyond, presenting a most charming view. At the Lake 
House the prices are high, the game dinners are good, and 
the fried potatoes are noted all over the world, but can be 



18 SPRINGS AXD FALLS. 

imitated nowhere else; they are done up in papers like 
confectionery, and the gayly-dressed ladies riding home in 
fine carriages may be seen eating them with their fingers 
v,ith beatific expressions on their countenances. On either 
side of the lake the drive is very pleasant. Lake Saratoga 
is 9 miles in length, and at its broadest part, opposite 
Snake Hill, is between 4 and 5 miles wide. Formerly, 
it abounded in trout, but is now filled with the black 
or Oswego bass, pickerel, muscalonge, and perch. 

A small steamboat is run on the lake during the summer 
time, and stages run froin Saratoga to the lake. Lake 
Saratoga empties by a small stream called Fish Creek into 
the Hudson. 

Coming back by another route to the town, the drive 
passes Lake Lovely, which is much smaller than Lake 
Saratoga. On the eastern shore, steep declivities rise up 
from the water's edge, covered with tangled ferns and hem- 
locks, some of which, the growth of centuries, rise above 
their fellows till their tops, resembling so many spires, 
seem lost in the clouds. In the rainy seasons, very consi- 
derable torrents pour down the sides of these precipitous 
banks, tumbling through the deep ravines and glens into 
the lake, and in a few places forming cataracts of some 
magnitude. One of these glens, on the eastern bank of 
the lake, nearly opposite Abel's Lake House, forms an 
echo almost as distinct and powerful as the celebrated one 
in the ruined bastion of the old French fortress at Crown 
Point. Another small body of water near here is called 
Barhydt's Lake. 

A drive of 16 miles on the road to Mount Pleasant le^ds 
to Prospect or "Waring Hill, which is 2000 feet above tide- 
water, and com.mands a fine view. 



a 6 5 

SPRINGS AND FALLS. 19 

The Saratoga Battle Grround is at Stillwater, quite a dis- 
tance out of town, but easily reached by a carriage-road. 

A very beautiful drive, but perhaps a pleasanter ride on 
the Adirondack Railway, is to Luzerne, (see the article 
on Lake Luzerne elsewhere,) which is situated about 
32 miles from the springs. On the border of the lower 
spurs of the Adirondacks there is fine fishing and hunting ; 
there ; the mountain air is exhilarating, and a row on the 
lake to gather water-lilies is very delightful. Passing 
from the depot over the Hudson, which is here bridged, 
and rushes through a narrow gorge of rocks not more than 
20 feet wide at places, the traveler finds George Rock- 
well's hotel, where dinners of trout and venison can be ob- 
tained at proper notice, that can not be surpassed. From 
this hotel a stage goes to Lake George, which is only 10 
miles away, and the route is more picturesque than that by 
way of Moreau. 

THE RACE-COURSE 

is on the road to Saratoga Lake, only half a mile from the 
springs. It was laid out by Charles H. Ballard, and is the 
finest race-course in the country. It is a level mile-track 
with commodious stands, and is kept in excellent order. 
The races last about a week. 

CHURCHES, ETC. 

Saratoga has a Presbyterian, a Baptist, a Methodist, an 
Episcopalian, a Congregationalist, and a Catholic church. 
The Universalist Society usually arrange for services at 
Leland's Opera-House. Ministers from various parts of 
the country, stopping at Saratoga for a season, frequently 
fill the pulpits of some of the churches. Dr. Cuyler, of 
Brooklyn, who has spent his summers at Saratoga for many 
years, usually preaches nearly every Sunday, and crowds 



20 SPEINGS AXD FALLS. 

go to liear Mm. Tlie Young Men's Cliristian Association 
liave a fine room and liold daily praver-meetings. 

BUEXIXG OF HOTELS. 

Twentv-five years ago, tlie Pavilion Hotel, wliich. was 
tlie favorite resort at tliat time, was destroyed bv fire. Tlie 
grounds where it stood are now occupied by the Presby- 
terian church. Since then nearly the whole of the east 
side of Broadway, from the church to Congress Spring, has 
been burned over by successive fires. On July 4th, 1864, 
Dr. Bedortha's water-cure establishment, a famous resort, 
capable of accommodating 200 guests, was burned, and of 
a loss of $75,000 only §18,000 was covered by insurance. 

In June, 1865, the United States Hotel, worth $300,000, 
and capable of accommodating 800 guests, was des- 
troyed, and with it also the Marvin House. The Marvin 
House is rebuilt, but coming down from the depot the 
ruins of the United States are still seen. The old Congress 
Hall, valued at §300,000, and capable of accommodating 
800 persons, was burned in the latter part of June, 1866. 
The Columbian Hotel, valued at §50,000, was burned Au- 
gust, 1866. It has been rebuilt. Xo lives have been lost 
at these fires ; but the people of the town have been ad- 
monished of the necessity of an efl&cient fire department, 
and have established one. 

THE HOUTIXE OF SAEATOGA LLFE. 

For a lady : rise and dress ; go down to the spring ; drink 
to the music of the band ; walk around the park ; bow to 
gentlemen and chat a little ; drink again ; breakfast ; see 
who comes in on the train ; take a siesta ; walk in the 
parlors ; bow to gentlemen ; have a little small-talk with 
gentlemen ; have some gossip with ladies ; dress for din- 



U 6 



SPRINGS AND FALLS. 21 

ner ; take dinner, an "hour and a half ; sit in tlie grounds 
and liear the music of the band ; ride to the lake ; see who 
comes by the evening train ; dress for tea ; get tea ; dress 
for the hop ; attend the hop ; chat awhile in the parlors and 
listen to a song from some guest ; go to bed. Varied by 
croquet ; the ladies' bowling alley ; visit to the Indian en- 
campment ; other springs ; the grand ball once a week or 
oftener ; a performance now and then at the Opera-House ; 
and the Races. For a gentleman : smoking on the stoop, 
billiards, euchre, and the bar, to vary a similar routine. 
For some, a night at the gambling-houses — Morrissey's, on 
Matilda street, with open doors and brilliant hghts, and 
Hill's and Hazelboom's, near the Union Hotel grounds. 

SYRACUSE-SALT SPRINGS. 

The salt springs, at Lake Onondaga, at the head of 
which (where Onondaga Creek comes in) the city of Syra- 
cuse is situated, have been known to the pale-faced race 
since the middle of the seventeenth century, and are the 
most valuable in the country, furnishing half the domestic 
supply. The productive springs are in great part found 
in the marshy lands surrounding the lake, which is an 
uninteresting sheet of water, 6 miles long and 1 wide, lying 
directly upon the side of the Central Railway. A stratum 
of marl, 3 to 12 feet thick, underlaid by a marly clay, 
forms an impervious barrier between the water raised from 
the wells and that of the lake. Wells are sunk or bored 
in the lowlands around the lake to various depths, from 
200 to 300 feet, and from these the salt water is forced 
up by pumps into the reservoirs from which the evapo- 
rating works are supplied. 

There are, in the vicinity of the salt-works, and easily 



/ 



22 SPRINGS AND FALLS. 

reached by liorse-cars from the city, several saline springs 
whose waters are very popular among the Syracusans, 
and are growing in favor elsewhere. Occasional visitors 
delayed over a train seldom fail to drink of the Excelsior, 
which is, moreover, to be had " bottled" at many towns 
and villages in Central New- York. 

Syracuse may be reached by Hudson River steamboat or 
rail, and New- York Central Railway direct, 300 miles from 
New- York, first-class fare by rail, $6.25. At Oswego, 
85 miles north of Syracuse, by Syracuse and Oswego Rail- 
way, fare $1.25, there have been a number of small 
sulphur springs discovered within 4 years, on the banks 
of the Oswego River. The lake view, (Ontario,) from the 
Pier at Oswego, will repay a visitor for his trouble in look- 
inof for it. 

LEBANON-THERMAL SPRINGS. 

The principal, if not the only, thermal springs in the 
State of New- York are at New-Lebanon, in 'Columbia 
county. There is a great variety of routes : the quickest, 
by Harlem and \Yestern (Boston and Albany) Railways to 
Canaan Station, whence stage 5 miles to Columbia Hall, a 
■first-class, excellent hotel, within the grountls of which are 
the springs. The water holds a permanent temperature of 
73 degrees Fahrenheit, and is abundant enough to work 
a mill. The village of New-Lebanon, or the celebrated 
Shaker settlement, founded by the disciples of Ann Lee a 
century ago, is 2 miles from the springs, and is a point of 
great interest to the visitors there, especially on Sunday 
when their singular forms of worship may be witnessed. 
This is the most perfectly arranged and constituted of the 
18 Shaker communities, and here the hierarchy of the 
" Millennial Church" reside. The ride thither is charming. 



^ 




;?6^ 



SPHIXGS AXD FALLS. 23 

the society in snnimer at tlie Colnmbia Hall veiy select, 
and the whole region one of the most quietly delightful, 
Sabbath-like retreats to be found. Pittsfield and Williams- 
town (see articles on Willl^mstowx and HousATOXio 
TAI.LEY) are about 25 m.iles distant from the springs. 

SULPHUR SPRINaS. 

The sulphur waters of the State are found especially at 
Clifton, Avon, Richfield, Sharon, Columbia, (town of Stock- 
port,) Massena, and Chittenango. 

One of the most recently popularized of these resorts is 

CoLUiiBiA — There are 3 springs which together bear this 
name, bubbling up in meadow-land, just in view of the Cat- 
skills and the Hudson, in the town of Stockport, Columbia 
county, 4 miles from Hudson. Mr. Charles B. Nash open- 
ed the hotel here in 1854, since which time the place has 
been steadily growing in public favor. Hudson River Rail- 
way, or boat, to Hudson, 125 miles from New- York City. 

Shap.ox is one of the most curious watering-places in the 
State, owing to the existence of 5 different kinds' of springs 
clustered closely together. These are respectively white sul- 
phur, magnesia, (these two the principal ones,) blue sulphur, 
chalybeate, and pure water. The village and the springs 
lie in a ravine 900 feet above the valley of the Mohawk, 
distant 10 miles (stage over plank-road) from Palatine 
Bridge, a station 201 miles from Xew-Tork City, on the 
Central Railway. The spring waters tumble over a ledge 
of perpendicular rocks, with a descent of some 65 feet, in 
sufficient volume and force to turn a mill. The magnesia 
and the sulphur springs much resemble tbe White Sul- 
phur of Virginia. 

The famous Cherry Valley, of Revolutionary memory, 
is in the vicinity of Sharon Springs, accessible also from 



24 SPEIXG5 AXD FALLS. 

Palatine Bridge, and from Canajoliarie, on tlie Erie Canal, 
from wLicli it lies about 26 miles in a soutli-west direction. 
Otsego Lake and Cooperstown, famous as the liome of the 
late Fen i more Cooper, the novelist, are also near by. Prin- 
cipal hotel at Sharon, the Pavilion, built in 1835, a first- 
class, excellent house. 

PiiCHFiELD. — Twenty-two miles west of Sharon is the 
village of Richfield Springs, half-way between the Mohawk 
Valley and Cooperstown, (Otsego Lake,) upon a narrow plain 
near the head of Canaderaja or Schuyler's Lake. The tour- 
ist from Xew-Tork City vrill take the river to Albany as be- 
fore, and the Central Railway to Herkimer, 81 miles from 
Albany, 227 miles from Xew-Tork. The Spring House is 
the principal hotel, and the springs are situate within its 
limits. The pretty lake near by affords excellent fishing and 
lovely roads for driving or sauntering ; and Otsego, with 
its memories of Cooper, besides Cherry Valley, is within a 
few miles' ride. 

Cliftox. — The Clifton Spa House was erected as a dis- 
pensary in 1806, when the springs, then gushing out on 
the borders of a rough marsh and tangled forest, were 
visited by invalids from the surrounding country. For 50 
years these waters have been famous for their cure of bil- 
ious and cutaneous disorders ; and yet it is only since 1845, 
that thev have been much known bevond the region of 
Central Xew-Tork, They are now one of the most popu- 
lar watering-places, perhaps the most so, on the Central 
Railway. Location, 212 miles from Albany, on the *'•' old 
(or ' Auburn') road," from Syracuse to Rochester by way of 
Auburn and Geneva. Passengers going west by the chief 
trains of the Central Railway are generally obliged to 
change cars at Syracuse — a good opportunity to stop at 
Onondaga Lake. (See article entitled Syeacuse Salt 



?7/ 



SPRINGS AND FALLS. 25 

Springs.) Passengers going east also generally leave the 
chief trains at Rochester, as the most direct route is 
through Lvons and Clyde, to the north, and the fast 
through-trains take this branch route in preference to the 
Auburn Road. The fare on the New- York Central Railway 
for any distance, through or way, is always 2 cents pe2 
mile. 

Ayon is a quiet, beautiful resort, situated on that branch 
of the Erie Railway which connects Rochester T\i.th the 
main road at Corning, a 5 hours' ride. Avon is 20 miles from 
Rochester, which is 375 from New- York by the Central: 
Road. Passengers from New- York City by the Erie need 
to buy tickets for Rochester, as the competition makes 
the fare to that point, though it is further, cheaper than 
the fare to Corning or Avon. Change cars at Corning. 
By the Central Road the passenger comes from Albany to 
Rochester, and riding a half-mile in State street car, from 
the Central to the Erie depot, takes Erie cars for Avon. 
The regular fare would be §7.90 to Rochester, (by Central,) 
and $2.50 more to Avon, from New- York ; but the summer 
competition always reduces this to about §5 or $6 in all, 
if the Erie route or the Hudson River boat be taken. The 
tourist bound for Avon may advantageously stop on his 
way to visit the three falls of the Genesee at Rochester. 
(See article on Genesee Falls.) Knickerbocker Hall is 
the chief hotel. 

There are two springs a mile or less west of the village. 
Carriages always in waiting at the trains. 

Massena Springs. — The Massena group of springs, of 
which the Saint Regis is the principal, are situated on-. 
the verge of the Raquette River, (a rapid and beautiful 
stream which rises in the centre of the Adirondack region, 
and empties into the Saint Lawrence, opposite Cornwall 



26 SPKIXGS AXD FALLS. 

ilsland,) and are -witliin 5 miles of tlie celebrated Long 
.Sault Rapids. The springs belong to tbe sulpbur class, 
^ and, it is said, tlieir eflBcacy was discovered by tlie natives, 
who observed that the animals of the neighboring 
woods used persistently to come to drink their health- 
. giving draughts. 

Persons leaving Xew-Tork by the afternoon express 
train on the Harlem Railway arrive in Albany in time to 
^ connect with the night train on the Central Railway, with. 
sleeping-cars attached, and T\i.thout change to Watertown, 
where sufl3.cient time is allowed for breakfast ; then pro- 
ceeding, arrive at Potsdam Junction about noon. Those 
who dislike night travel can take the 7.30 morning express 
;train on the Hudson River Railway, and go through to 
Watertown xia Central and Rome and ^Yaterto^vn Rail- 
' ways, remain over night at Watertown, (this is one of the 
most charming little towns in the State,) and take the 
anorning train for the springs as above mentioned. An- 
• other very delightful trip may be arranged thus : Take 
^morning boat on Hudson River for Albany, and railway to 
I Saratoga; on leaving Saratoga, take the Saratoga and 
Whitehall Railway for Moreau Station, connecting with 
stage for Caldwell's, at the foot of Lake Horicon. The 
steamer leaves Caldwell's every morning for the ui^per 
end of the lake, connecting with morning boats on Lake 
•Champlain, and arri^-ing at Rouse's Point same evening. 
: Sleep on the boat and take early train for Potsdam June 
tion, where carriages will be fotmd in waiting to convey 
passengers to the springs. The tourist by this route passes 
through some of the most picturesque and beautiful sce- 
nery in the country. A more rapid trip may be made by 
taking the morning express trains from New-Tork, con- 
necting with night boats on Lake Champlain, and arriving 



SPRII!^GS AXD FALLS. 27 

at Rouse's Point in time to take morning train for Braslier 
Falls and stage to the springs. 

Travelers leaving Boston by tlie 5 P.M. express train on 
the Vermont and Canada, and Vermont, Central and Sulli- 
van Railways, go through, without change of cars to Rouse's 
Point, connecting with morning train on the northern 
(Ogdensburgh) Railway for Potsdam Junction or Brasher 
FaUs. 

At the springs there is a lively little village, in which 
the United States Hotel, Messrs. Crocker & Co. proprietors, 
affords every convenience necessary to travelers. 

Chittexaxgo. — The ^'illage of Chittenango, in Madison 
county, lies on the hanks of the Erie Canal, at the entrance 
to the deep, narrow valley through which the Chittenango 
Creek, the outlet of Cazenovia Lake, makes its way towards 
the immense plain that extends from Syracuse to Rome, 
and over which it flows to Oneida Lake, 8 miles distant. 
A long mile up the valley from the village, near the east- 
ern bank of the stream, gush out, from a sheMng ledge 
of rocks, the celebrated sulphureous fountains. Along 
that mile, the hills rise high on each side of the narrow 
valley, and for a considerable distance the road traverses 
an oozy swamp, in the midst of which is a small edifice 
covering the more ancient mineral fountain in that region, 
known as Yates's Spring. It is now but little visited. 
There are both sulphur and iron springs, both pronounced 
by geologists to be the finest in the State. Invalids are 
much benefited by the baths, under the immediate charge 
of a physician of high standing and many years' practice, 
first in Cincinnati and afterward in Xew-York, in both 
places gaining an enviable reputation in the profession. 
The hotels and cottages (there are 4 of the latter) will 
accommodate 100 boarders, wdth an excellent table, good 



28 SPRINGS AND FALLS. 

beds, plenty of amusements in tlie way of bowling, bil- 
liards, and croquet. The whole establishment presents 
a tidy and inviting appearance quite refreshing. The 
country for miles around abounds in fine scenery, ex- 
cellent roads, and good fishing. 

The best route to this place is by the People's Line of 
steamers, leaving Pier 41, North River, at 6 P.M., reach- 
ing Albany in time for breakfast. The train leaves on the 
New- York Central Railway at 7 o'clock, arriving at Chit- 
tenango station at 12 o'clock, where there are stages in 
readiness on the arrival of each train to convey passengers 
to the hotel, where a sumptuous dinner, much needed, 
will be ready. 

Cherry Valley. — Not far from Sharon Springs is 
Cherry Valley, at the head of the valley of Cherry Valley 
Creek. It is a small village, in the interesting township 
of the same name, and has long been well known as the 
seat of a fine young ladies' academy, the oldest west of 
Schenectady. The first principal of the institution was 
the famous Rev. Solomon Spaulding, whose harmless anti- 
quarian, aboriginal novel, written for his own amusement 
solely, was made the basis of that great fraud — the Book 
of Mormon. Mount Independence, near the centre of the 
township, is a rocky eminence 2000 feet above the sea. 
Tekaharanea Falls, 160 feet high, are to be seen on a small 
creek near by. The sulphur springs, in the vicinity of 
these falls, are a place of some resort. A new hotel is to 
be erected this smnmer, with bath-houses, etc., in the best 
style of summer resorts. Board may be had at $5 per 
week. An additional attraction is to be enjoyed in the 
brine springs, which are near by, in the village called Salt 
Springsville. Route, same as to Sharon. 



^ /<> 



SPRINGS AND FALLS. 29 

OAK ORCHARD ACID SPRINGS. 

Tlie Oak Orchard Acid Springs are situated about 12 
miles nortli-west of Bataria, N. Y., in the town of xila- 
bama, on Oak Orchard Creek. Railway station, Batavia, 
accessible either bj the Erie or the Central road. These 
curious springs are nine in number, all located within a cir- 
cle 50 rods in diameter, three of them issuing from a mound 
within 10 feet of each other. Iq no two of them is the water 
alike. Thev are found, by analysis, to contain, besides other 
mineral substances, a quantity of free sulphuric acid. Large 
quantities of the water are bottled and sold. These are 
the principal acid springs in the State of Xew-Tork. 

VALLONIA SPRINGS. 

A little east of the centre of Broome county, New- York, 
lies the postal yillage of Yallonia Springs, in the town- 
ship of Colesyille. It takes its name from the valuable 
mineral waters which render the place an excellent resort 
for persons desiring health, country life, and quiet. The 
charming Susquehanna Payer is but one mile distant, the 
town lying upon the uplands 400 to 700 feet aboye its val- 
ley. . The scenery of the surrounding country is vnld and 
romantic, and there is abundance of game and fish to de- 
light visitors with more material preferences. 

Hotel, the Spring House, J. B. Sands, proprietor. 
Eoute from Albany, ma morning train on the Albany and 
Susquehanna Railway, 114 miles, to Afton, thence by 
stage to the house. 

BALLSTON SPA, NEW- YORK. 

The ^allage of Ballston Spa lies about 7 miles south- 
west from the great Saratoga Springs. Its mineral 



30 SPRINGS AND FALLS. 

springs, whicli alone make tlie place a popular resort, 
comprise the Sans Souci, Low's Park, the New and the 
Old Washington, and the Sulphur. With the exception 
of the last-named, these evidently belong to the same class 
with the Saratoga group. They may be called acidulo- 
saline, or carbonated saline waters. 

The Sans Souci Hotel, Mr. George Smith, proprietor, 
is a first-class, large house, well-known and popular. 



THE immXL SPEIXGS OF VERMOXT. 

The State of Vermont boasts a number of fine mineral 
Springs, most of them not very satisfactorily analyzed, 
and in the north-western corner. For reference to the 
oldest of the popular springs in the State, those at Claren- 
don, see sketch of the Rutland and Buhlington Rail- 
WAY. Public interest has of late been centring in the com- 
paratively new springs in the towns of Sheldon and High- 
gate, and on Alburg Bay, close to the Canada and Lake 
Champlain borders. There are four separate tracts of land 
occupied with these. 

MISSISQUOL 1 

The Missisquoi Springs are situated about 10 miles in a 
north-easterly direction from Saint Alban's,Termont, which 
is the nearest point of railway communication, and 2 miles 
north of the ^illage of Sheldon. Their name is taken 
from the beautiful winding Missisquoi River, which flows 
immediately in front of them. They are 13 in number, 



A77 



SPEINGS AND FALLS. 31 

all witliin the space of an acre of land, and all possessed, 
apparently, of different mineral qualities, having distinc- 
tive tastes and colors, and, so far as tried, proving nnlike 
in effect. One spring is cathartic, although, the Missis- 
quoi is not, but is a diuretic ; another is offensive to the 
taste and smell, while the chief one is usually free from 
all unpleasant odor, and its mineral properties are scarcely 
perceptible, being only known by its effects. This spring 
is now called the Missisquoi, and has been known to the 
few in the immediate neighborhood, for many years, as 
affording a remedy for cutaneous diseases, although it is 
only within the last few years that it has risen rapidly in 
public estimation. The other springs, with a single excep- 
tion, have been discovered lately. One, the cathartic, is 
already proving a remedial agent for dyspepsia and dis- 
eases of the liver. The specific virtues and uses of the 
others remain for time to develop. The character of the 
soil around the springs is peculiar, there being a fine and 
extensive vein of fuller's earth passing through them, 
wliile at the bottom of the Missisquoi are deposits of mi- 
neral substances, consisting principally of pyrites and 
quartz. This spring is from 4 to 5 feet deep, and the 
"water rises in small jets through the minute apertures of 
a white marble-like hard-pan. Its flow is uniform, neither 
increasing by rains nor diminishing in droughts. The 
Missisquoi is the only one of the group that has been ana- 
lyzed. 

Visitors for Missisquoi take the Montreal train from 
Burlington and stop at Saint Alban's, where they may 
either remain at the Weldon House, (the finest hotel in 
Northern Vermont, $3.50 per day,) or take stage 10 miles 
for (Wright's) Central Hotel, ($2.50 to $3 per day,) at 
Sheldon. This is in close contiguity to the Vermont 
Spring, and not very far from the Highgate. 



?2 SPEINGS AND FALLS. 

VERMONT SPRING. 

This spring is on tlie soutlierly bank of tlie Missisquoi 
River, about three fourths of a mile from the village of 
Sheldon, and 2 miles above the Missisquoi Spring. The 
side-hill rising above the spring is shaded with a beautiful 
grove of second-growth maple, birch, poplar, and hemlock, 
and forms one of the chief attractions of the immediate 
locality. A neat house has been built over the spring, 
and all necessary appliances are provided for bottling the 
water after the most approved manner. The curative 
powers are mostly in the direction of cutaneous diseases. 
Besides the hotel mentioned above at Sheldon, the farm- 
houses in the vicinity afford very pleasant accommodations 
at $8 or $10 to $12 per week, the latter price being the 
hotel terms. The region is comparatively new and unfa- 
miliar at present, but more public houses are to be erected 
speedily. 

HIGHGATE SPRING 

Is in the western part of the township of Highgate, 
12 miles from Saint Alban's, and about 1 mile be- 
low the Missisquoi Spring, on the river of that name. 
The railway from Saint Alban's to Montreal passes between 
the hotel and the spring-house. The Franklin House, 
large and commodious, is a delightful summer retreat, 
(terms, $2.50 to $3 per day.) In the rear of the hotel, 
on a gentle eminence, is a grove of native trees, which 
add greatly to the beauty of the place. 

The nearest telegraph station for these three localities 
is at Saint Alban's. 

ALBURG SPRING. 

The springs thus far described are located upon the 
Missisquoi River, 10 to 13 miles inland from Lake Cham- 



27? 



SPEINGS AND FALLS. 33 

plain. The Alburg Spring is at Alburg Bay, standing 
upon a peninsula between the Canada line, Missisquoi 
Bay, and the Richelieu or Sorel River, (Champlain outlet,) 
opposite Grand Isle in the lake. There is a fine hotel 
here, which will be ready for visitors this summer, June 
1st, but will hereafter be open all the year round. The 
proprietor, Mr. R. J. Severance, may be addressed at " Al- 
burg Springs, Grand Isle county, Vermont," Telegraph 
station at the railway station, (same name,) one mile from 
the hotel. Rooms for 150 guests ; prices this summer, $8 
to $20 per week, $1.50 to $3.50 per day. Besides the 
spring, the vicinity is very attractive to tourists, the lake 
and mountain scenery, particularly the drives along 
Champlain, being very fine. Phillipsburg and Highgate 
are 6 miles distant, and the Canada line 8 miles. 

How Reached. — The route by which tourists may 
reach all these springs, is, from New- York, by rail or 
steamboat to Troy, thence by Troy and Boston, Rutland 
and Washington, and Vermont Central to the stations as 
given. At Essex Junction, 5 miles north of Burlington, 
passengers must see to it for themselves that they are on 
the right route, as the well-known Vermont Railway dis- 
agreements render the railway people very unsatisfactory 
in their directions. 



34 SPRINGS AND FALLS. 



THE mimil SPEIXGS OF PEXXSYLYAXIA. 

CRESSON. 

Cressox is situated in Cambria county, Pa., on the 
line of tlie Pennsylvania Central Railway, 102 miles from 
Pittsburg, 254 from Philadelpliia, 328 from Xew-York, 
and 236 from Baltimore. It is nearly at tbe summit of the 
Alleghany water-shed, (on the western slope,) and is 2400 
feet above the sea level. A more commanding situation 
for the hotel might have been chosen than its present one 
on the summit ; but the present one was selected on ac- 
count of convenience to the railway. The property is 
owned and controlled by the Cresson Springs Company, 
and consists of about 300 acres, neatly fenced in from the 
surrounding wilderness. The improvements are, one large, 
comfortable hotel, the Mountain House, south of the rail- 
way, and a smaller one on the north ; also 17 stylish cot- 
tages, built on the mountain side, owned principally by 
wealthy persons from Pittsburg, Philadelphia, Steuben- 
ville, etc. These houses, all together, will accommodate 
about 500 guests, and are usually well patronized, chiefly 
from the West. Of the salubrity of the climate there can 
be no question. The benefit which invalids receive from 
a few days' residence is wonderful. The clearness, purity, 
and bracing nature of the air are noticed at once. The 
thermometer rarely reaches 75° in the hottest part of the 
hottest days of summer. The nights are always cool, and 
guests sleep under blankets the entire season. Indeed, 
last season, except during one week, fires were quite wel- 
come both night and morning. The drives around the 
place are excellent, and abound with fine scenery. Plank 
walks radiate in all directions, to most enchanting walks. 



SPRIXGS AND FALLS. 35 

The usnal amusements common to smnmer resorts, bil- 
liards, ten-pins, etc., etc., may be indulged in, and a fine 
livery-stable is attached to tlie Mountain House. 

There are 7 springs of different kinds within easy walk- 
ing distance of the hotel. The chief one, which lies about 
a quarter of a mile back, is of a chalybeate nature, and its 
beneficial effects have been experienced by many. This 
spring is situated on the Old Alleghany (State) Postage 
Railway, or rather on the ruins of it. This work may be 
considered as an object of curiosity, showing, as it does, 
what an ancient railroad was. It was purchased by the 
Pennsylvania Railway Company in 1854, and abandoned 
the next year. As it now remains, it looks like a yictlm 
to the progressiveness of our age. 

Its accessibility makes Cresson one of the most desirable 
of resorts, as it is on the great short line route between 
the East and the West, with trains running to all points, 
indeed, to all the principal cities, without change of cars. 
For instance, there is no change between Cresson and 
Xew-York, Philadelphia, Baltimore, Pittsburg, Cincin- 
nati, and Chicago, and but one to Cleveland. Thus the 
merchant from these places, bound East, can bring liis 
family here, stop a few days, then leave them, and pursue 
his journey further ; when his business has been trans- 
acted, return to Cresson, and escort his brood westward. 
Hundreds of merchants do this yearly. 

The Pennsylvania Railway Company is very obliging 
to guests at Cresson, and special trains are furnished at a 
small cost, to persons wishing to view carefully the mag- 
nificent scenery along this part of the road — the finest, 
save that of the Baltimore and Ohio, in the East. The 
elegant station-house at Cresson serves the double purpose 
of accommodating the peox:)le of the hotels and the passen- 



36 SPRINGS AND FALLS. 

gers from a brancli railway, wliicli has its terminus at tliis 
place, (tlie Ebensburg and Cresson brancli.) 

Within 6 or 7 miles good trout-fishing may be had ; and, 
in its season, there is a fair show of game. Several years 
ago, there was fine shooting within a short distance, but 
the hundred trains a day on the railway have scared the 
game further into the mountains. 

Cresson is rapidly improving. This year, the founda- 
tions of a large brick hotel will be laid, and ere the season 
of 1869 arrives, there will be room for upward of 1000 
visitors. 

The price of board will be fixed this season at ,$20 per 
week, one third being deducted if the visitor rents a cot- 
tage. The tables are excellently kept. The first house will 
be kept, as usual, by that agreeable gentleman, Mr. 
George W. Mullin, assisted by his brother, Mr. A. Gordon 
Mullin. 

CAHLISLE AND DOUBLIIja GAP.! 

Carlisle Springs are within a short distance of the vil- 
lage of Carlisle, Pa., and are much patronized by fami- 
lies from Philadelphia and Baltimore, on account of their 
quiet retirement, as well as the excellent accommodations 
found there. Doubling Gap Springs are but a few miles 
away, near New^alle, where pure mountain air and varied 
and attractive scenery may be enjoyed to repletion. These 
latter springs enjoy rather a local reputation only ; but 
there is no lack of interest either in the place or the 
society to be found there. Either of the springs named 
may be profitably visited by the tourists seeking health or 
recreation. Koute from New-York City, at 8 a.m., by Mor- 
ris and Essex (the more picturesque) or the Xew-Jersey 
Central to Easton, 84 or 72 miles, Eastern Pennsylvania, to 



SPEINGS AND FALLS. 37 

Reading, 136 miles, and Lebanon Valley Railways to Harris- 
burg, 200 miles ; thence by Cumberland Valley Railway 
to Carlisle, 18 miles, reacliing tliere at about 5 p.m. 

For many years Carlisle was distinguislied as being tbfl 
most aristocratic place in all the commonwealth of Pennsyl- 
vania ; but it was rather an aristocracy of intellect than of 
wealth. Judge Gibson, late Chief-Justice of the Supremo 
Court of the State, resided here. His legal decisions are 
to-day regarded Avith deep reverence by the best legal 
minds at the bar. Dickinson College fMethodist) is located 
here, and is flourishing under the management of an able 
corps of professors. Xear the suburbs of the borough are 
the beautiful United States barracks, which the rebel 
General Lee was magnanimous enough to spare from de- 
struction during his invasion into Pennsylvania, on account 
of pleasant reminiscences connected therewith, while he 
commanded a cavalry regiment there as an officer of the 
United States. It is within easy walking distance, and is 
always a great point of interest to strangers. 

BEDFOED. 

Bedford Springs, located one mile from the village of 
Bedford, on the Raystown branch of the Juniata, is an at- 
tractive place for invalid summer resort. The water con- 
tains carbonic acid, sulphate of magnesia, sulphate of lime, 
and muriate of soda. Excellent hotel accommodation foi 
visitors. 

Route, ma Huntingdon, on the Pennsylvania Central 
Railway, 106 miles from Harrisburg, 204 from Phila- 
delphia, 151 from Pittsburg ; thence by the Huntingdon 
and Broad Top road to Mount Dallas, 44 miles ; thence by 
stage, 6 miles. 



88 SPRINGS AND FALLS. 



GETTYSBURG. 

Since tlie Katalysine water lias come into celebrity as 
one of tlie great mineral beverages of the land, Gettys- 
burg must be accounted, oddly enough, among the water- 
ing places of interest to the tourist. A new and spacious 
hotel is to be opened this season, and certainly there are 
attractions of a certain sort at no point in the country 
more interesting than at this " high-water mark of the Re- 
bellion." The spring, owned by the Lithea Spring As- 
sociation, is said to resemble in effect the German Yichy ; 
but it is nearly tasteless. It is situated about 2 miles 
west of the town. 

Route. — From Xew-Tork City one may come in one 
day, by the route given in the sketch of Caelisle, above, 
to Harrisburg ; then along the Susquehanna River on the 
Northern Central Railway to Hanover, 46 miles, then by 
the Gettysburg Railway, 30 miles. 

A day, well employed, will suffice to show the stranger, 
at Gettysburg, the battle-field and cemetery, while a 
second and third may be spent in visiting the springs and 
the several objects of interest in and around the village. 
The battle was fought on the 1st, 2d, and 3d of July, 1863, 
between the Union forces, under General Meade, and the 
Confederate army, under General Lee, in which the latter 
was vanquished, with a loss in killed, wounded, and pri- 
soners, of 23,000 men. The best approach to the battle- 
field is that by the Baltimore turnpike, which leads south- 
wardly from the village directly to Cemetery Hill, distant 
half a mile from the Eagle Hotel. Cemetery Hill forms 
the central and most striking feature at Gettysburg. Here 
General Howard established his headquarters ; upon this 
point the heaviest fire of the enemy was concentrated; 



SPRINGS AND FALLS. 39 

and Iiere is most appropriately located tlie !N^ational Ceme- 
tery, wliere are interred a large number of tlie Union 
soldiers. It was known as Cemetery Hill long before 
tlie battle, the eastern slope of it having been inclosed 
and used as the village burying-ground. This should 
also be visited by the traveler. The view from the crest 
of the hill is open and extended, affording every facility, 
with the aid of the accompanying map, for following the 
movements of the respective armies. As the inspection of 
the cemeteries must be made on foot, the visitor Avill save 
time and labor by following the route here indicated. The 
Village Cemetery, sometimes called the Citizens' Cemetery, 
in contradistinction to the National or Soldiers' Cemetery, 
which adjoins it, is entered through a lofty arched gate- 
way from the Baltimore road. Following the main avenue 
southward, a short walk brings the visitor to a circular 
lot, well-nigh covered with stones, which are to be used in 
the construction of a vault. They present an aspect at 
once striking and suggestive. They cover the spot se- 
lected by General Howard on the morning of the engage- 
ment as his headquarters, and here the heaviest fire of the 
rebel batteries, numbering nearly 200 guns, was concen- 
trated. With wise and kindly forethought, that officer 
had ordered the monuments and tomb-stones which sur- 
rounded the spot to be taken down, so that while some 
were unavoidably injured, comparatively few were destroy- 
ed. The marble monument erected to General Gettys, the 
founder and early proprietor of Gettysburg, which occupies 
a prominent position on the right of the avenue between 
the entrance and this lot, is worthy of notice. Standing 
on Cemetery Hill, the visitor has the key to the position 
of the Union forces during those eventful ^' three days of 
July." Cemetery Hill proper is the termination of the 



40 SPRINGS AND FALLS. 

ridge wliicli runs soutliward between the roads leading re- 
spectively to Taneytown and Emmettsburg. The view 
from this hill is extensive and varied. Westward the 
horizon is bounded by the long range of the South Moun- 
tain, beyond which lie Chambersburg and Hagerstown. 
In the same direction, a little to the right, and rather more 
than a mile distant, is the Seminary, near which began the 
battle of the 1st, which terminated so disastrously to 
Eeynolds's corps. From Seminary Ridge, General Lee 
opened a furious bombardment of the Union position on 
Cemetery Hill. The cemetery is inclosed with a neat 
railing. On the gateway are inscribed the names (18 in 
number) of the States represented by those buried within. 
The monument, the foundation of which was laid Novem- 
ber 19th, 1863, will be completed July 4th, 1868. The de- 
signer and contractor is James G. Batterson, of Hartford, Ct., 
and the cost will be $47,000. It will be 60 feet high, and 
crowned with a statue of Liberty. At the base of the pe- 
destal are four buttresses, surmounted mth allegorical 
statues, representing War, History, Peace, and Plenty. 
The monument occupies the crown of the hill, and around 
it, in semi-circular slopes, are ranged the dead, each State 
being represented hj^ a separate section. The divisions 
between the States are marked by alleys and pathways, 
radiating from the monument to the outer circle, the 
coffin-rows being divided by continuous granite blocks 
about 6 inches high, upon which are inscribed the name 
and regiment of each soldier, as far as ascertained. Be- 
tween Emettsburg pike and Cemetery Hill lies the scene 
of Pickett's bloody and disastrous charge, in which 18,000 
men are estimated to have been engaged. Following 
Cemetery Ridge, and keeping before him Round Top 
Mountain, says the historian of the Ai-my of the Potomac. 



^^/ 



SPEIXGS AND FALLS. 41 

a short walk will bring the visitor to one of tlie most in- 
teresting spots on tliis famous battle-field. " This is a 
buncli of wood to wliicli a few — it mav be a score or two — 
of the boldest and bravest that led the van of Pickett's 
charging column, on the 2d of July, attained. Thus far the 
swelling surge of invasion threw its spray, dashing itself 
to pieces on the rocky bulwark of Northern valor. Let us 
call this the high-water mark of the Rebellion." Seminary 
Ridge, College Hill, Gulp's Hill, Round Top, and Little 
Round Top, are generally visited. AVilloughby Run, 
where General Buford's cavalry held in check the rebel 
column under Hill for nearly two houi's, is pointed out. 



THE MIXEEAL SPRIXGS OF YIEGIXIA. 

The hotel charges at these Springs will not exceed $3, 
nor be lower than §2.50 per day, and will be about $80 per 
month. Excursion tickets, at reduced rates, will be fur- 
nished during the summer by the New- Jersey Railway 
and Transportation Company, foot of Cortlandt street, 
New- York City. 

Travelers from every portion of the L'nion can now, by 
railway, reach Covington, the present terminus of the 
Virginia Central road, about 20 miles distant from the 
White Sulphur. 

Persons wishing to reach the Springs from the North 
and East, as well as those from the South, who pass 
through Petersburg or Richmond, should make Staun- 
ton, 100 miles east of the Springs, a point in their travel. 

Those traveling from the South or South-west have a 
continuous chain of railway routes, either by way of 
Richmond or by KJnoxville, Tenn. Those taking the lat- 



42 



SPRINGS AND FALLS. 



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ilted-Kall-rioaclsofiVow-J -— 



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SPEINGS AND FALLS. 43 

ter route may proceed from Knoxville by way of Lyncli- 
burg to Charlottesville, where they take the cars on the 
Central road by way of Staunton to Coving-ton ; or, if they 
prefer, they may leave the cars at Bonsack's, and proceed 
in stage-coaches, about 63 miles, to the White Sulphur. 

Persons traveling from the West ought either to take 
the cars at Memphis and proceed by way of Knoxville, or 
come by way of the Baltimore and Ohio road to Washing- 
ton, and thence by Staunton to Covington. On either of 
these routes, after leaving the railway, the traveler v^ill 
find excellent stage-coaches to convey him without delay, 
over well-graded roads and amidst beautiful mountain 
scenery, to the Springs. 

As soon as the Covington and Ohio road, which connects 
with the Virginia Central, is completed to the White Sul- 
phur, which will soon be the case, there will be continuous 
railway routes to the Springs from every great section of 
our country. Even now there is great expedition in the 
travel, there being but 20 miles of necessary staging to 
reach them from any quarter. Travelers at this time 
leaving Baltimore, Washington, or Richmond in the 
morning, can, with comfort, arrive at the White Sulphur 
to brealvfast the following morning, or at a much earlier 
hour if it were desired. 

THE VIRGINIA SPRINGS. 

ROUTES, 

Travelers to any of the principal springs in the moun- 
tains of Virginia, either from the North, East, or West, 
to avail themselves most largely of railway facilities, must 
necessarily make Staunton a point in their journey. 

From Staunton, the Rockbridge and Bath Alum, the 
Warm, Hot, Healing, White Sulphur, Salt, and Red Sul- 



44 SPRINGS AND FALLS. 

phur Springs, are conveniently readied by railway, -with. 
small amount of staging, and in the order in wliicb. they 
are here set down. The Sweet, and Red Sweet (now called 
the Sweet Chalybeate) Springs are on the same general 
route, and are reached by a detour of 17 miles from the 
White Sulphur. 

The Yellow, the Montgomery "VYhite, the Alleghany, 
Coyner's, and Blue Ridge Springs, are reached by the 
traveler going east on the Virginia and Tennessee Rail. 
way, in the order in which they are here enumerated. 

SWEET CHALYBEATE SPRINGS. 

These springs, so well known to the public who have 
been in the habit of visiting the Virginia springs, are situa- 
ted on the southern border of Alleghany county, 1 mile 
west of the Old Sweet Springs, and 16 south-east of the 
Greenbrier White Sulphur. They are 20 miles from Co- 
vington, the present terminus of the Virginia Central Rail- 
way, with which they are connected by a good road, over 
which stage-coaches run daily through the summer season. 

They are 48 miles west from Bonsack's Depot, on the Vir- 
ginia and Tennessee Railway, and a like distance from Sa- 
lem Depot, on the same road. Between these depots and tlie 
springs, good coaches run daily during the watering season. 

These springs were formerly known by the name of the 
''Red Sweet," from their abundant red deposit of ferru- 
ginous matter, and their general resemblance to the waters 
of the Old Sweet Springs. 

But many of the friends of the waters have advised that 
they be called Sweet Chalybeate Springs, with a view of 
enabling the public more clearly to distinguish between 
them and the " Old Sweet," wliich are but 1 mile distant. 

There is thought to be a propriety in such a change of 



A?/ 

SPEINGS AND FALLS. 45 

name, not only because it will enable tlie distant public 
and strano^ers in our mountains to distinguisli more readily 
between the two springs, wliicli, although similar in the 
character of their waters in some respects, differ essentially 
in some others, and especially in reference to the relative 
amount of iron contained in each. In these springs, a very 
large relative amount of that ingredient prevails ; there 
is thought to be a peculiar propriety in designating them 
Sweet Chalybeate, inasmuch as the name chalybeate bet- 
ter conforms to a correct nomenclature of calling waters 
after the leading and most efficient ingredients in their 
composition. 

It would seem desirable, indeed, that a general reforma- 
tion should take ]3lace in the naming of our mineral foun- 
tains, by which their names would more meaningly and 
clearly convey correct ideas of their medicinal qualities. 
This, while it would conform to the demands of modern 
chemistry, at the same time would save the stranger and 
the uninitiated from the common mistake of confounding 
waters of dissimilar chemical and medicinal character ; 
and this, mainly, in consequence of the unmeaning but 
often similar names which they bear. 

As samples of this inconvenience, fruitful of error, it may 
be mentioned that we have perhaps a score of sulphur 
waters in the State, designated as ''White ;" several under 
the initiatory cognomen of " Blue," " Grray," emS^' Black ;" 
and three springs in this immediate region, of which this 
is one, whose distinctive designation is ''Red." These 
facts, which might be extensively multiplied, are cited to 
show the reasonableness, nay, the importance, of correcting 
the nomenclature of our springs, and in apology for the 
desire, that these heretofore known as the Red Sweet may 
hereafter be known as the Sweet Chalybeate. 



46 SPKINGS a:n^d falls. 

Tlie property upon wliicli tliese springs are situated was 
purcliased many years ago by a gentleman of South-Caro- 
lina, in reference to its medicinal waters, and the valuable 
land that surrounds them. Subsequently, it was owned 
and considerably improved by Mr. Philip Rodgers, who for 
many years kept the old Sweet Springs. In 1845, the pro- 
perty came into the possession of John R. Sampson, Esq., 
who made valuable additions to the improvements. It 
was afterward owned and kept with great reputation as a 
watering-place for several years by Mr. C. Bias. The pre- 
sent owner purchased the property in 1862. The spring 
buildings, now in good repair, are ample for the accommo- 
dation of not less than 400 persons. 

Routes. — From any point Xortli or West, xia Washing- 
ton, Gordonsville, Staunton, to Co\dngton, by rail ; thence 
by a line of stage-coaches 20 miles to the springs. 

Travelers from the South-west, on the Virginia and 
Tennessee Railway, have their choice of pursuing the 
railway line by way of Lynchburg to Covington, or of 
leaving the cars at Salem or Bonsack's, and taking stage- 
coaches 40 miles across tlie mountains to the springs. 

Those traveling from the South, ma Petersburg or Rich- 
mond, have an option to pass up the Central Railway to 
Covington, or to take the South Side Railway to Lynch- 
burg, and the Virginia and Tennessee Railway to Bon- 
sack's or Salem, and thence stage-coaches to the springs. 

There are daily communications by stage between these 
springs and the White Sulphur, and also with the Alum, 
Healing, Hot, and Warm Springs. 

SALT SULPHUK SPRLS'GS. 

The Salt Sulphur Springs, three in number, are about 
24 miles south from the White Sulphur, in Monroe county, 



^ n ^ 



SPEINGS ANT> FALLS. 47 

and near Union county-seat. They are surrounded by 
mountains : Peter's Mountain south and east, the Allegha- 
ny to the north, and Swope's Mountain to the west, near 
the base of which are the springs themselves. Messrs. 
Erskine and Caruthers own the property, and can accom- 
modate 350 guests. 

The Salt Sulphur was discovered in consequence of hav- 
ing been observed as a favorite " lick" for deer and buffa- 
loes, by Mr. Er^vin Benson, in 1805. It is inclosed in a 
marble reservoir two feet square and two feet ten inches 
deep, with a pavilion. 

The Iodine or New Spring was discovered by the pro- 
prietors in 1838, while opening a drain for the water of the 
first. Owing to a large deposit of sulphur, in combination 
with some peculiar Organic matter which floats as a pel- 
licle on the surface, this water is less limpid than that of 
the Salt. Under a strong sun it occasionally deposits a 
beautiful pink sediment. 

The Upper or Old Spring was discovered by Mr. Alex- 
ander Hutcherson, in 1803, while searching for salt water 
on Indian Creek. The water of this is now almost ex- 
clusively used for the baths, having been superseded as a 
drink by the Salt Sulphur proper. 

RED SULPHUR. 

The Red Sulphur Springs are in the southern part of 
Monroe county, 42 miles from the White Sulphur, 17 from 
the Salt, 39 from the Sweet, and 32 from the Blue Sulphur 
Springs. They have been famous for more than fifty 
years, and have accommodations for 350 guests. 

A few miles to the south- west is a recently improved 
sulphur spring on New River, Giles county. The waters, 
not yet analyzed, belong to the sulphur class. The ac- 



48 SPRINGS AND FALLS. 

commodations are good, and tlie vicinity is liiglilj attrac- 
tive and romantic. The celebrated Salt Pond is near bv. 
-Route, stage from Newbern or Christiansburg, on the Vir- 
ginia and Tennessee Railway, or from the Red, Salt, or 
Montgomery White Sulphur Springs. 

SWEET SPRINGS. 

The sweet springs are in the eastern part of Monroe 

county, 17 miles south-east of the White Sulphur, and 22 

east of the Salt Sulphur ; discovered, 1764 ; the first in 

this section of the State. Analyzed in 1774 by Bishop 

Madison, President of William and Mary College. The 

location is in a beautiful valley, 5 miles long, by a half 

mile to three fourths wide ; bounded on the north by the 

Alleghanies, and south by the Sweet Spring Mountain. 

Accommodations for 600 to 700 guests, and these are to be 

doubled soon. Contents, salt, iron, and earth. 

< 

HOT SPRINGS. 

The Hot Springs are in Bath county, 35 miles north- 
east of the White Sulphur, and 21 west of Millborough 
Depot. There are six baths, at different temperatures, 
from 100^ to 106° of heat. In each of these, arrangements 
are made for the sweat, plunge, or douche bath. 

WARM SPRINGS. 

The Warm Springs are situated in a narrow valley at 
the western base of the mountain bearing their name, in 
Bath county, 50 miles w^est of Staunton, and 5 miles north- 
east of the Hot Springs. Their reputation is 80 years 
old and more. They were early in great favor, and were 
frequented before any other in the State but the Sweet 
Springs were known. 



:i9S' 

SPRINGS AND FALLS. 49 

HEALING SPRINGS. 

Bath county is named for its thermal springs, for which 
the chain of valleys which lie at the base of the Warm 
Spring Mountain is so remarkable. This is located in 
Falling Spring Valley, the southernmost of the group. 
There are three separate fountains here ; two close to each 
other, and the third 200 yards distant, in the same ravine. 
Uniform temperature, 84^ Fahrenheit. They have not 
been analyzed. No accommodations were provided here 
for a long time, owing to a bitter feud between the par- 
ties to whom the tract belonged ; but the great demand of 
late for mineral waters has somewhat improved the con- 
dition of the place. See the table of Virginia Springs. 

ROCKBKIDGE ALUIM. 

Being outside the great " spring circle,'' this valuable 
fountain was long neglected, though known 60 years ago ; 
but there are now accommodations for 600 to 800 visitors, 
which will probably be much increased by the opening of 
the present season. Messrs. Frazier & Randolph are the 
proprietors. There are five fountains, each slightly dififer- 
ing from the other, percolating through a heavy slate- 
stone cliff. A chalybeate spring adds attraction to the 
place, a few hundred yards from the others. 

BATH ALUM. 

The Bath Alum Springs are situated near the eastern 
base of the same mountain, on the main stage-road from 
Staunton to the Warm Springs themselves, 45 miles west 
of the former and 5 east of the latter. The grounds have 
been improved within 5 years by Mr. John W. Frazier. 
The waters fall from a slatestone cliff, 12 or 15 feet high. 
Good and extensive accommodations may be had here. 



50 SPEINGS AXD FALLS. 



EOCKBEIDGE BATHS. 



These are in Rockbridge countT, on the stage-road from 
Lexington to Goslien depot, on the Virginia Central Rail- 
way, about midway. Tliere are two baths, and hotel ac- 
commodations for 150 to 200 guests. 

daggae's speixg. 

Daggar's Spring is in the extreme north-western comer 
of Botetourt county, 30 miles east of the Alleghanies, and 
just at the western base of the Garden Mountain, on the 
main road from Lynchburg to White Sulphur Springs, by 
way of the James River Canal. The Natural Bridge of 
Virginia is 19 miles west, by a direct road, and 28 miles 
by way of Buchanan, the usual route. The spring takes 
its name from its discoverer, who opened the place for a 
resort, some 40 years ago. Mr. Shields is the present pro- 
prietor, and he finds places for 200 guests, at his popular 
hotel. The society here is chiefly local, and most agree- 
able. The spring is of the sulphur class. Distance from 
the White Sulphur, the Sweet, and the Sweet Chalybeate 
Springs, each about 43 miles. 

COLD SLXPHUE. 

This is 7 miles east of Rockbridge Alum, and 2 miles 
west of Goshen depot, Rockbridge county, on the Virginia 
Central Railway. Accommodations for 100 guests, at Mr. 
Leech's hotel. 

TAEIETT SPEIXGS 

Is the appropriate name given to a series of fountains 
impregnated with alumina, ii*on, sulphur, the characteris- 
tics of the Healing Spring, etc. They are situated in Au- 
gusta county, IT miles west of Staunton, near Pond Gap 
Station, Virginia Central Railway. The spi-ings are quite 



^v 



SPEINGS AXD FALLS. 51 

new, and the accommodations are yet incomplete ; but 
considerable local patronage lias been already bestowed. 

stkebling's. 

This popular watering-place, 30 years old, was named 
for its first energetic proprietor, Mr. Erasmus Stribling. 
Location, 13 miles north of Staunton, in Augusta county; 
stage communication. These are sulphur, alum, and cha- 
lybeate springs. The climate here is peculiarly good, and 
visitors stay quite late in the season. 

RAWLET'S SPEIXG 

Is called the best chalybeate water in Virginia. It is 
situated on the southern slope of the Xorth Mountain, in 
Rockingham county, 12 miles north-west of Harrisonburg, 
and 120 miles north-east of the White Sulphur. Accom- 
modations for 150 guests. 

burner's springs, or the seten fountains. 

Are situated on the western base of Massanutten Moun- 
tain, in Shenandoah county. Reached from Woodstock, 8 
miles. The central spring is sulphur, the others are free- 
stone, slate, limestone, and carbonic acid. 

shannondale. 

On a peninsula of the Shannondale River, called the 
Horseshoe, in Jefferson county, are three springs, similar 
to the celebrated Bedford water — saline chalybeate. Ac- 
commodation for 150 persons ; scenery unsurpassed. 

BATH OR BERKELEY SPRINGS. 

The Berkeley Springs, in the town of Bath, Morgan 
county, were very famous in the colonial times, when the 
accommodations were eminently primitive. The amuse- 



52 SPRINGS AND PALLS. 

ments in those days were of a character not now deemed 
most fitting for the quiet elegance of a watering-place. 
After the Revolution, the accommodations were greatly im- 
proved and increased ; but Saratoga and the White Sulphur 
began to rival Berkeley, and their superior arrangements 
soon left her far behind in the race. In 1844, a fire des- 
troyed fourteen buildings, and one half the hotel accommo- 
dation. In 1845, however. Col. John Strother, lessee of the 
property, commenced building an elegant hotel, which 
was finished in 1848. This, and the completion of the 
Baltimore and Ohio Railway, have restored the ancient 
prosperity of Berkeley Springs ; and now she entertains 
in every season some 1200 to 1500 visitors. There are 
three large springs, and a number of smaller ones, forming 
a bold and beautiful stream which, lower down, supplies 
a number of mills with water-power. The water is light, 
sparkling, and tasteless. Elegant accommodations for 
bathing ; the ladies' building has nine private baths, and 
a plunge bath 30 by 16 feet, of white marble ; and that for 
gentlemen has ten bathing-rooms, with a swimming-bath 
60 by 20 feet. Strother's Hotel will accommodate 400 
persons ; O'Ferrall's, 150 ; other places, 150 more. 

There are several other yet unimproved sulphur and 
chalybeate springs, of which Ornick's and Capon are the 
chief. 

BOUTE. 

By Baltimore and Ohio Railway to Sir John's Depot, 130 
miles west of Baltimore, and 49 miles east of Cumberland ; 
thence 2^ miles by stage to the springs. 

YELLOW SPRINGS. 

The Yellow Springs are situated in an elevated part of 
Montgomery county, 4 miles from Christiansburg, on the 



^9f 

SPEINGS AND FALLS, 53 

Virginia and Tennessee Railway. Tliey are 5 miles from 
Montgomery White Siilpliur, 13 from tlie Alleglianies, 35 
from Salt Sulpliur, and 60 from Greenbrier White Sulphur. 
The hotel buildings here are new, pleasant, and well- 
shaded by great forest-trees. The resort dates back 60 
years. 



OHIO WHITE STJLPHTJE SPRING. 

Near the geographical centre of Ohio, in Delaware 
county, on the west bank of the Scioto, surrounded by a 
country broken, hilly, and beautiful, are the famous White 
Sulphur Springs of 01\io. The place has been known as 
Hart's Spring, for more than 20 years. The buildings of 
the public houses are pleasantly placed on an undulating 
plateau 120 feet above the Scioto, 800 feet back. There 
are acconmiodations for 600 guests. Bath-houses of all the 
improved kinds, with steam-heating apparatus, are pro- 
vided. The steady force with which the sulphur water is 
expelled from its subterranean channel is one of the won- 
ders of nature, quite unexplained hitherto. 

Near this Sulphur Spring are three other mineral foun- 
tains, respectively chalybeate, magnesian, and saline chaly- 
beate. 

THE BLUE LICK SPRINGS OF KENTUCKY. 

Sulphurous saline waters are found in several -foun- 
tains on the bank of Licking River, in Nicholas county, 
24 miles from the Ohio, and on the main road from Mays- 
ville to Lexington. Salt was manufactured here until 
within 18 years. The waters are among the most popular 
in the country, being extensively sent out for commerce, as 
well as used by the visitors. 



54 BPEINGS AND FALLS. 

TRENTON FALLS. 

Few of tlie many places of resort in our country give 
more thorougli satisfaction to the visitor tlian Trenton 
Falls. Not only are the falls magnificent as a spectacle 
of natural beauty, but tbeir vicinity includes localities 
equally charming. Indeed, were there no cataract at 
all, the magnificent gorge through which the stream 
runs, and the rich beauty of its banks, would alone repay 
the visitor. 

There are two hotels at the falls, the finest being 
Moore's Trenton Falls House. Mr. Moore, who was for- 
merly a New- York merchant, came into possession of the 
property a number of years ago, and, lea\ijig the excite- 
ment of business life in the metropolis, devoted his atten- 
tion to this delightful spot. He added considerably to the 
buildings, and, being a man of refined, artistic taste, im- 
parted to it all the graces with which culture and taste 
adorn a home. Indeed, this is the peculiar charm of the 
Trenton Falls Hotel. It is not a mere hotel, but, even to 
the transient traveler, is a beautiful home. Its rooms are 
quietly and elegantly furnished ; its walls are hung with 
rare paintings and engravings, while here and there are 
displayed original sketches by some of our leading artists, 
to whom Trenton Falls is a familiar haunt. In the music- 
room is a large and superior pipe-organ, and among the 
guests can usually be found some one or more who know 
how to elicit its rich harmonies. 

In more material features, this hotel is not wanting. 
The rooms are clean and spacious, and no one could ask 
for a better table. Dinner is served at about one o'clock, 
and tea on the arrival of the coach bringing passengers 
from the railway station. The advent of this vehicle, 
which also carries the mail, is one of the daily excitements 
at this place, and the guests always throng the wide and 



SPRINGS AND FALLS. 55 

cTieerful piazza to look among tlie new-comers for any 
friends to wliom tliey may add their greetings to the cor- 
dial welcome which this attractive hotel always seems to 
extend to the travelers who may seek its pleasant hospi- 
tality. 

Visitors thus usually reach Trenton Falls just before 
tea. The route from New- York is by the Hudson River 
Railway or steamboats to Albany, thence by the New- 
York Central Road to Utica, where passengers take the 
Black River Road, and, after a couple of hours' ride north- 
ward, reach the Trenton Falls Station. Here, coaches are 
in waiting to convey them direct to the hotel. 

After a night's rest, the exploration of the vicinity be- 
gins. Directly behind the house is a woodland grove, and 
a path winding through it brings one to the brink of the 
river near the first fall. There is also a steep staircase 
leading directly down to the edge of the stream, which 
just below the hotel emerges from the magnificent ravine 
through which it courses, to meander through smiling 
meadows and quiet farms. A path has been cut along the 
edge of this ravine, and it is quite possible to ascend the 
stream to beyond the highest fall, thus exploring at lei- 
sure all its numerous beauties. At this starting-point the 
visitor find the river to be very narrow — in times of drought 
not over 10 feet wide, and in seasons of freshets over 20 — 
and hemmed in on either side by perpendicular walls of 
rock. Forty-five rods below is the outlet of the chasm, 
and 37 rods above, the first fall. The pathway in this 
latter direction has been blasted under an overhang-ino^ 
rock, and, though apparently dangerous, is in reality quite 
safe to all excepting the peculiarly nervous. Thousands 
of ladies every year pass along this narrow way, but there 
is no record of accident. At some points this pathway is 
as much as 20 feet above the level of the stream, and the 



56 SPEINGS AKD FALLS. 

rapids are here peculiarly grand. In a few moments 
Shermak's Fall is readied, the water dashing over an 
immense parapet of rock, while on either side the rocky 
walls of the gorge ascend in sheer precipices to a fearful 
height. The pathway leads over broken rocks, continually 
ascending until the delighted visitor finds himself on a 
level with the parapet wall, whence he can gaze down 
into the chasm of dashing waters. Of course, the force and 
beauty of this fall varies with the condition of the stream ; 
but even when the w^ater is at the lowest, it is still 
grand, and, indeed, were there no water at all, the chasm 
itself and wild grandeur of distorted rocks around would 
render the spot a notable one. The falling water here 
often takes a rich amber hue. 

Beyond this fall the stream grows wider. More rapids 
are passed, and the pathway leads under a mass of pro- 
jecting rock where all visitors must bend low. Just be- 
yond this point a vast flat rock expands out toward the 
middle of the stream, and, stepping upon this, a full and 
glorious view of the High Falls is suddenly obtained. Mr. 
Sherman's excellent description, written thirty years ago, 
is still exactly apphcable : "The eye, elevated at a con- 
siderable angle, beholds a perpendicular rock 100 feet 
high, extending across the opening in a diagonal line 
from the mountainous walls on each side, rising 70 or 80 
feet still higher. Over this the whole river descends, first 
perpendicularly about 40 feet, the main body rushing to 
the left. On the right it pours down in a beautiful white 
sheet. For a short distance in the middle the rock is left 
entirely naked, exhibiting a perpendicular and bold breast 
work, as though reared by art to divide the beautiful white 
sheet on the one side from the overwhelming fury of the 
water on the other. They unite on a flat below ; then, 
with a tumultuous foam, veer suddenly down an inclina- 



5<^3 

SPRINGS AND FALLS. 57 

tion of rocky steps, wlience the whole river is precipitated 
into a wide, deep, and dark basin, 40 feet underneath, 
mountainous walls rising on each side of the stream near- 
ly 200 feet, tall hemlocks and bending cedars extending 
their brandies on the verge above, small shrubbery varie- 
gating here and there their stupendous and naked sides. 
On the right of the basin a charming verdure entirely 
overspreads a smoothly rounding and majestic prominence, 
which reaches half-way up the towering summit, and over 
the whole sky mingles with retiring evergreens, until, 
verging in perspective to the distant angle of incidence, 
they are lost in the ethereal expanse beyond. Such are 
the High Falls, which the pen may fkintly describe, and 
of which the pencil may portray the outline ; but Nature 
reserves to herself the prerogative of gi\dng to her visitors 
the rapturous impression." 

One of the most delightful times at which to visit this 
bewitching spot is late in the afternoon, when the shadow 
from the hill and forest on the west bank of the stream 
begins to creep up the rocky front of the eastern side, 
driving the rich sunlight up the red rock and from the 
richly variegated foliage. At the summit of the falls a 
rude house of refreshment has been built, from the balcony 
of which a fine view may be obtained of the falls and of 
the river beyond. 

For the charms of this enchanting locality do not end 
here. About 40 rods further up the stream — now stretch- 
ing out into a wide though shallow river — is the so-called 
Mill Dam Fall, 14 feet high and extending across the en- 
tire stream. When the water is high, this fall is exqui- 
sitely beautiful, for its graceful uniformity is then broken 
by a series of semi-circular jets of water formed by pro- 
jecting bits of rock, between and not over which the 



58 ^ SPRINGS AND FALLS. 

water runs wlien tlie stream is low. Friendly boulders 
lie on the bed of tbe river a few rods below this fall, bv 
means of which it is frequently possible to get almost to 
the middle of the stream. 

A little further on, the river again suddenly contracts, 
forming that scene of wild beauty known as the Alham- 
BRA, including a cascade. Still further (after passing a 
curious circular hole, 5 or 6 feet deep, and called both the 
Potash Kettle and Jacob's Well) is the extraordinary 
spot known as The Rocky Heart, where the water, in 
its circumscribed limits, has worn for itself a deep hole or 
bay, in the outline of w^hich the imaginative can discern 
the shape of a heart. It is only safe to pass a few rods be- 
yond this point, a huge projecting rock forming a sudden 
end to the hitherto convenient pathway. Looking up the 
chasm from this point, it still appears most wildly invit- 
ing ; and it is well that the tourist's route ends at this cli- 
max of wild beauty ; for a few rods further the gorge ends, 
and the tamer scenery of low banks and cultivated fields 
is resumed. 

To those interested in geology, the vicinity of Trenton 
Falls offers special attractions. There is an abundance of 
fossil remains, and the various strata of the rocks are dis- 
played to the greatest possible advantage. Mr. Sher- 
man — who, by the way, built the hotel at the Falls and 
first directed public attention thereto — includes in his ac- 
count from which we have already quoted an interesting 
treatise on these geological formations. It is contained in 
an elegant little volume, edited by the late N. P. Willis, 
entitled Trenton Falls, Picturesque and Descriptive, to be 
had at the hotel. Mr. Willis, by the way, was a great ad- 
m.irer of this delightful spot, and frequently wrote about 
it in the Home Journal, besides describing it more fully 



SPEIXGS AND FALLS. 59 

in a story called Edith Linsey, one of liis earliest produc- 
tions. Mrs. Fanny Kemble lias devoted to it a graceful 
ode, and hundreds of newspaper writers have made it tlie 
subject of communications more or less appropriate. In 
every instance this beautiful stream and its noble cascades 
have received unstinted praise, to which every fresh visitor 
adds his or her approving word. Many, fresh from [N'ia- 
gara, declare their preference for Trenton Falls ; but the 
two are so utterly different that they can not be fairly 
compared. At Trenton there is little of that impressive 
immensity that is the awful peculiarity of Niagara ; but 
in mere beauty and variety it is superior. 

Walks. — The vicinity of Trenton Falls offers some de- 
lightful rambles. It is worth while to go to the bridge 
which crosses the stream a short distance below the chasm, 
cross it, and ascend the sloping hills beyond, whence there 
is a fine ^-iew of the surrounding country with its rolling 
elevations and its richly cultivated fields. While on this 
side of the river it is well to follow a comparatively un- 
frequented pathway through the woods along the summit 
of the cliff, occasionally catching glimpses of the river roll- 
ing turbulently far below in its narrow gorge, and to per- 
severe until the High Falls is reached. Another pleasant 
walk is along the banks of the stream, on the same side with 
the hotel, to Prospect Village, 3 miles distant. Here is an- 
other fall, a bridge, with a gloomy ravine, and a pictur- 
esque old mill, forming altogether a scene of rare beauty, 
though far different in character from those previously de- 
scribed. Indeed, this cascade at Prospect is not sufficiently 
appreciated ; but no visitor to Trenton should leave the 
locality without witnessing this charming sight. Among 
other places of interest in the vicinity are the Trout Ponds, 
Cold Brook, Hinkley's Mills, Baron Steuben's Monument 



60 SPRINGS AND FALLS. 

at Remsen, and Star's Hill, commanding a fine view. 
These localities are rather too distant from the hotel to be 
included under the head of " walks," and should be visited 
in carriages. The view from Star's Hill includes the whole 
region of country southward to the Mohawk and to the 
hills of Clinton and Sharon ; to the west. Lake Oneida can 
be seen, and to the east the mountains of Vermont and the 
Adirondack range. Far to the north stretches that vast 
primeval forest which covers so large a portion of North- 
ern iSTew-York, and extends in its unbroken solitude even 
to the distant Saint Lawrence. 

How LONG TO STAY.— Trenton Falls are often visited by 
picnic parties, who arrive in the morning, stay a few hours, 
and depart in the afternoon. Such is the custom of too 
many tourists. Of course, in even this brief interval it is 
possible to walk through the gorge from the staircase near 
the hotel to the Rocky Heart, and to gain even a vivid im- 
pression of the Falls ; but this hurried visit is by no means 
thoroughly satisfactory. It seems almost sacrilegious to 
gulp down, as it were, in one brief day the rare beauties 
of this exquisite shrine of nature. To fully appreciate it, 
one should see the scenery by the rich light of late after- 
noon and early t^vilight, and, if possible, by moonlight too. 
Even these two days will not allow time enough to visit 
the places of interest in the vicinity, and a week is not too 
much for even the transient tourist to devote to this charm- 
ing locality. If detained over the Sabbath, places of wor- 
ship will be found at Trenton Village, including the old- 
est Unitarian church in the State. 

Expenses. — Mr. Moore, at his first-class hotel, charges 
less than in most other hotels of the same rank. By the 
week, we believe, the price is $31, and by the day not more 
than $4, if as much. 




Falls of Minnehaha, Minnesota. 



d^y 



SPEINGS AND FALLS. 61 

GENESEE FALLS. 

The Falls of tlie Genesee Eiver, at Rochester, are to be 
reached either by the New- York Central or the Erie Rail- 
way. Rochester is 375 miles distant from the metropolis 
by the former, and 385 by the latter route. A sketch of 
the *' Flour City" may be found in the article entitled 
New-Yokk Central Railway. Hotels : the Osburn, 
Brackett, Congress, and Clinton ; the first most remote, 
the last a quarter-mile distant, and the other two close to 
the Central depot and nearest the Falls. The city horse- 
cars run to a point below the third fall, about 4 miles 
from the Central depot, and 4|- or 5 from the Erie or 
" Valley" depot. The Middle Fall is also, owing to the 
position of the road, convenient of access from the great 
highway from the city to Lake Ontario, the favorite sum- 
mer drive of Rochester people. Public hacks may be 
found at any street corner. Walbridge's stables, on Fitz- 
hugh Street, 3 squares from the Brackett, Congress, or 
Clinton, afibrd excellent livery teams. The different cata- 
racts of the Genesee evidently formed at one time a single 
cascade ; but the different degrees of hardness of the seve- 
ral rocks have caused an unequal retrograde movement 
of the falls, until they have assumed their present posi- 
tion. At the Upper Falls, just north of the New- York 
Central Railway bridge, the water descends 96 feet over 
the perpendicular face of Niagara limestone, underlaid by 
shale. At this place the noted Sam Patch made his last 
and fatal leap. There is no good provision made for a 
view of the falls, and the visitor who would enjoy their 
beauty must be content to take very primitive methods of 
observation. There is an "observatory" in a hier-garten, 
near the brink, on the eastern side, (there is no view what- 



62 SPRIXGS AND FALLS. 

ever to be obtained from tlie west bank, owing mainly to 
the many mills wbicli have usurped the water-power 
tbere,) but as it is on a level with the fall, it affords a 
very indifferent prospect. One must clamber down tlie 
clayey bank, at about a quarter-mile below the fall, and 
tben walk up the narrow ledge at the bottom of this cliff, 
again, to the basin beneath the fall. Here he has a view 
which repays him for his trouble. In his face is the great 
fall, and on the side, along the west bank or cliff, are 
a great number of petty falls — miniature Taghkanics — 
caused by the overflow of the mills, which crowd each 
other, with a most covetous look, on the dangerous 
brink. 

Below the Upper Falls the river flows between nearly 
perpendicular walls, about If miles to the Middle Falls, 
where it has a descent of 25 feet. One hundred rods be- 
low, it descends 84 feet at the Lower Falls, over a ledge 
of Medina sand-stone, to the level of Lake Ontario. This 
is by far the most picturesque point in the river below the 
city. One will best enjoy it on the west bank, although, 
to have seen and appreciated the whole, he must visit 
also the other. To do tliis, nothing will do but a retracing 
of his steps from the Lower Fall to the Upper, where he 
may cross the only available bridge — that of the railway — 
and go down to the Lower Fall again on the east bank. 
The horse-cars, fortunately for economists, reach the Low- 
er Fall on the west side. The banks of the river, through- 
out much of its length, indeed, but particularly here, re- 
minds one most strikingly of the gorge through which 
flows the Niagara River. Several sulphur springs flow 
out of the rocks below the Middle Fall. 

Below the Lower Fall are numerous rapids, which con- 
tinue to Carthage, the end of navigation on the Genesee 



bo<f 



speijvtgs axd falls. 63 

River from Lake Ontario. The post-office at tlie village 
of Genesee Falls is called Portageville, while Portage Sta- 
tion is on the Buffalo branch of the New- York and Erie 
Railway, 30 miles from Hornellsville. For the fine scene- 
ry there, see Erie Railway. 



KIAGARA. 

Until commerce and curiosity shall so populate the 
Great West as to render it possible to determine reliably 
the wonders of the Rocky Mountain region, Niagara Falls 
must certainly hold the place of the first wonder of the 
natural world. It is only recently that its preeminence 
has been disputed. Travelers from the Great Snake River, 
in Oregon, have brought back word to wondering (and 
distant) audiences of a cataract upon that stream which, 
possessing all the volume of Niagara, surpasses its height 
by nearly 100 feet. It is not a little distressing to the 
tourist to know, while he stands by the hitherto unrivaled 
precipice, that perhaps, after all, he is only gazing upon a 
second-class fall ; but then there may be consolation in the 
other reflection, that, unlike Alexander, he shall not be 
obliged to sigh for more worlds to conquer. 

We may observe at once three recessions — "backings 
out," the London Saturday Revieio would probably ele- 
gantly say — concerning the great wonder of New- York. 
Its precipice has been gradually receding, of its own sove- 
reign will, (which who shall hinder? as was truly ob- 
served once in Irish,) from Lake Ontario toward Lake 
Erie, from time immemorial ; its popularity, of late years, 
has been likewise declining ; and now the glory of its pre- 
eminence is threatened. For, not to dwell loncrer on the 



64 SPRINGS AND FALLS. 

familiar geological fact and the now oft-repeated compari- 
son, it can not be denied that Niagara Falls is no longer 
the favorite resort of the deau monde. Saratoga, Newport, 
Long Branch, the mountains, the Saint Lawrence retreats, 
are the places where one must chiefly look for the fash- 
ionables of to-day. At the Falls one will be more likely 
to find newly-married couples who have long been looking 
forward to their honeymoon and the Niagara visit with 
almost equal anticipations ; commercial travelers, forcing 
Niagara ujDon their programme to their temporary pecu- 
niary loss ; excursion parties from New- York and Penn- 
sylvania ; and a good many people just like himself. But 
of all fashionable or quondam fashionable resorts, Niagara 
especially is to be visited, and is visited, not for its fashion 
and folly, but for itself — its own glorious, magnificent self : 
and itself we will now wholly regard. 

There are two ways to see Niagara, which we will call 
the costly way and the careful way ; the first under con- 
trol of a hackman, and the second on foot, as reason, study, 
and a free moral agency may direct. We prefer the latter. 
Most guide-books give the first in detail, which is not ne- 
cessary; the only essentials being, to arrive at Niagara 
Falls, put up at the biggest and costliest hotel, commit 
yourself unreservedly to a member of the Niagara Falls 
Order of Thugs, (see paragraph on The Hackmex mid- 
way in this article,) and go in the order he may choose, 
with such frequent money-lettings as he may prescribe, to 
the following places : Brock's Monument, at Queenstown, 
(7 miles,) LeT^istown and its Suspension Bridge, at the 
same point, Lundy's Lane, the Whirlpool, the Devil's Run, 
the Great Suspension Bridge, the Burning Spring, the Mu- 
seum, near Table Rock, the place where Table Rock was. 
Fort Schlosser, (that was,) Navy Island, Grand Island, the 



3// 



spei:n^gs axd falls. 65 

Rapids above the Falls, and so on. Some views of Niagara 
Falls are often included during this experience. 

A pleasure-traveler at tliis great point on his journey 
should make up his mind at the outset to two things : that 
he can not make the tour of Niagara Falls as he can visit 
most places, in a railway car or a carriage, in a delay of a 
few hours ; and that, whatever he do, a first, comparative- 
ly brief visit will never enable him to " appreciate " the 
great cataract as he will afterward. If he shall make a 
foot-tour of the region, he will give himself a peculiar 
aptitude to take in the spirit of the scene, will be able and 
anxious to delay longer at the really important points, 
and will be very unlikely to waste his time in seeing curi- 
osities in which nothing but a morbid regret at the Bar- 
num's Museum fires could interest him. The route usually 
taken by visitors to the Falls ought to be divided into 
two parts — one, consisting of the cataracts and their walls, 
and nothing else ; the other, belonging to a beautiful rail- 
way ride (which many lose) down to Ontario, and includ- 
ing Lundy's Lane or Chipx)ewa, Lewiston, the two Sus- 
pension Bridges, etc. If one is not to ^isit the River Saint 
Lawrence, indeed, perhaps a carriage-ride to the Rapids 
above the Falls may be advisable ; but the view on the 
bridge connecting Goat Island to the mainland will com- 
monly be more satisfactory. 

With the convictions, then, that the great cataract de- 
mands time and trouble, and is to be treated as a friend 
who improves on acquaintance, let the tomist set out on 
his foot-journey. Five minutes' walk from the New- York 
Central Railway depot at " Niagara Falls" — not Suspension 
Bridge depot — will bring him, passing between the Cata- 
ract and International Hotels, to the street or road which 
leads across the iron bridofe above the American Falls 



6Q SPRINGS AND FALLS. 

(passage both ways, 25 cents) to Goat or Iris Island, pass- 
ing Batli Island. Upon this bridge one should stop for 
the view both above and below. The latter is the less im- 
portant, but affords a fine preparation for the mighty scene 
at the tower ; the waters, hurrying over rocks and stones 
from the Rapids above, give one a keen sense of the ever- 
lasting activity which so stirs the soul to sympathy. But 
above, as far as the limit of the waters reaches, the toss- 
ing, furious rapids present a scene which some pronounce 
the grandest at Niagara. The visitor will delay here 
profitably some time. The walk directly across through 
the shady grove on Goat Island, over a road moistened 
with the spray from the great cataract, whose distant roar 
moves one indescribably, is full of charms. At the end of 
this walk is the Terrapin Tower, from the summit of 
which may be had the finest view, not of the whole fall, 
but of the " agony of the waters " in the centre of the 
Horseshoe. The depth at that point has been estimated — 
enormously, one must say — at 30 feet. The views across 
the great sweep to the Canada shore, up the torrent until 
it meets the horizon, and down through the magnificent 
gorge below the fall to Suspension Bridge, are among the 
great experiences of a ^dsitor here. One will wish also to 
walk to the upper end of the island, and see the Three 
Sisters (islands) an(^ the view up the river from the low 
standpoint of the shore. The roads and paths through the 
woods on Goat Island are highly attractive. (We are in- 
debted to Mr. G. M. Colburn, of the International, for the 
following information, now first published: The Three 
Sister Islands, opposite the Hermit's Cascade, are now 
open to visitors. During the past ^ijiter three truss- 
bridged have been thrown across, connecting them with 
Goat Island. Very few persons have ever been on them 



V B 



SPRINGS AND FALLS. 67 

until tlie past winter, and it lias opened some wild natural 
objects of interest for all. About $9000 have been ex- 
jDended by Mr. D. J. Townsend, for tbe Porter estate, in 
building tbe bridges, walks, drives, etc.) 

Returning from Terrapin Tower, one will best complete 
liis studies of the Horseshoe Fall. The Canadian shore 
then will be reached by the little row-boat which plies 
from the foot of an inclined plane at no considerable dis- 
tance from the " Museum" at the iron bridge. Ferriage 
and railway charge, 25 cents ; there is a staircase at the 
side of the railway, the tedious walk up or down which 
reduces the charge by half a dime. The row across the 
river is perfectly safe, a fact which we should hardly feel 
obliged to state had we not known even strong men who 
hesitated at the brink of the tossing flood. There is a pe- 
culiar and fine front-view of the Horseshoe Fall on tliis 
diabasis. 

Landed in Canada, the visitor finds the road leading to 
the plateau above on a steep incline ; but the fatigue of 
the climb is forgotten whenever he turns to look at the 
great cataract, or the American and Central Falls, nearly 
opposite him. At the summit he finds himself on a more 
beautiful plateau than he has yet enjoyed on the American 
side, stretching away as far as the Lake Ontario shore on 
the south, and meeting the river just above its precipice. 
The Clifton House, near at hand, will be worthy a visit, as 
it is a fine specimen of a well-kept, rather old-fashioned, 
elegant English public-house. (See paragraph on Hotels 
below.) 

The Hackmen. — Along the plateau, up to the site of 
Table Rock, (which has fallen piecemeal, until now only 
its root remains,) the visitor would enjoy a delightful 
walk, surrounded with beauty, grandeur, and sublimity, 



68 SPEINGS AND FALLS. 

but for one thing — the curse of Niagara, the blight of the 
landscape, the gad-flies that hover even over the brink of 
the cataract — the hackmen. You will encounter them 
everywhere, poor victim ! but this table-land seems to us 
their peculiar abode, hive, headquarters. Some one who 
has never visited Niagara has divided the human race into 
" men, women, and the Beecher family ;" had he come 
here, he would have said, ^^ pale-faces, Indians, and Nia- 
gara hackmen." These pests accost you at every turn in 
the road, and at every point where it does not turn ; on 
Table Eock and under it f in the seclusion of Goat Island, 
starting forth from behind trees, and, one would almost 
think, springing from the earth ; haunting the Cave of 
the Winds, and hanging on the verge of the precipice at 
Terrapin Tower — burrs, barnacles, bores. That they are 

* Outrages at Niagara Falls.— A journal in Western New- 
York says : " Those who have visited Niagara Falls at any time 
within the past ten years, and ventured upon the Canadian side, to 
view the stupendous cataract from the famous Table Rock, have, as 
a rule, experienced the annoyances of a lawless gang of fellows who 
seem subject to no code of either International or British law, but 
who adopt the most direct means of relieving the pockets of their 
victims of as much money as possible, making exorbitant charges for 
imaginary services, and frequently resorting to force in extorting 
their demands. A Canadian paper, the Evening Tinies^ of Hamilton, 
Ontario, has recently been warning the public against the dangers of 
the locality, and showing up one Saul Davis, the alleged leader in the 
outrages described, and proprietor of an establishment which most 
visitors have cause to remember, known as the ' Table-Rock House.'' 
A libel suit is the consequence, and the defendant therefore appeals 
for evidence to sustain his statements to Americans, who have prin- 
cipally been the victims of the plaintiff's persecutions. Those who 
have suffered at the hands of attaches of the so-called Table-Rock 
House, and who would be willing to narrate their wrongs in court 
and serve a cause of humanity, are desired to communicate with the 
office of the journal mentioned." 



SfS^ 



SPEINGS AXD FALLS. 69 

a separate species of beast appears from tlie fact tliat ordi- 
nary means vaW not rid one of tliem ; tliey stick to you 
Tritli more pertinacity tlian did tlie first postal currency, 
and a repulse tliat would annihilate a Xew-York newsboy 
seems only to indicate to tliem your desire for tlieir further 
acquaintance. In short, the hackmen of Niagara are in- 
tolerable. If there can be any use to which the ideal " poor 
Indian" of Niagara, who is privileged to 

" see God in clouds and hear Mm in the wind," 



mthout the hindrance of these hackmen, can be put by 
Government, we think it would be to educate them up to 
such a civilized condition as to render them liable to hack- 
men, and then give them liberty to use the aboriginal 
tomahawk against the common foe. 

The best evasion of the hack-difficulty possible is for 
visitors to engage carriages at the offices of the hotels. 
A hotel official facetiously writes us that '' the hack sys- 
tem is not perfect ;" but " the legal rates are $2.06 per 
hour for a carriage, not for each 'person, as many are led 
to believe." Let our readers, therefore, disregard the lies 
which the hackmen on the street will be sure to tell them. 
and abide by the legal profusions. Let us also remind the 
reader that these hackmen receive a percentage (25 cents 
on the dollar) for all the custom, whether of '' going be- 
hind the sheet," purchasing or observing curiosities at 
Saul Da-vus's " Table Rock Museum." This caution mil 
disclose the text from which their eloquent orations are 
drawn. 

To resume : the visitor who can succeed in keeping off 
these wretches, and the others of whom mention has been 
made in a foot-note, will enjoy, upon this Canada side, the 
grandest of the views of the great fall. We leave to our 



70 SPKIN^GS AND FALLS. 

reader's discretion tlie journey below Table Rock, where 
is the personal danger alluded to above, and tlie venture 
hebind the main sheet a very short distance when the 
wind is right ; the view there is fine, of course, but hardly 
essential. A little beyond Table Rock one may gain the 
view which inspired Gignoux's famous masterpiece. A 
short or long walk further up the river, according to one's 
time or opportunity, will always repay the trouble it costs. 

Returning to the American side and the toll-gate to 
Goat Island, the visitor will cross from the mainland and 
take the right-hand path for the Cave of the Winds. This 
is under the Central Fall, (see statistics below,) which is 
between the Horseshoe and the American. The cave is 
100 feet high and the same in width, and is reached by 
Riddle's Stairs, descending spirally. You can pass safely 
into the recess behind the water to a platform beyond. 
jMagical rainbow-pictures are formed at this spot ; some- 
times bows of entire circles, and two or three at once, are 
seen. At the foot of Goat Island the Three Profiles form 
an object of curious interest. These profiles, seemingly 
some two feet long, are to be seen, one directly above the 
other, as you look across the first sheet of water, directly 
under the lowest point of rock. Luna Island is reached 
by a foot-bridge, from the right of Goat Island. It has an 
area of some three quarters of an acre. The effective rain- 
bow forms seen at this point have given it the name it 
bears. 

It was upon the west side of Goat Island, near Riddle's 
Stairs, that the renowned jumper, Sam Patch, made two 
successful leaps into the waters below, saying, as he went 
off, to the throng of spectators, that " one thing might be 
done as well as another !" 

We ]i^ve now completed the tour of Xiagara Falls pro- 



3J7 



SPRINGS AND FALLS. '71 

per ; tliere remain the places wMcli we have said belong 
rather to the Lewiston journey. These are given below, 
under the separate title of Niagara Kiver. The reader 
will find some few facts concerning the river in the begin- 
ning of the sketch of Lake Ontario. He will wish nov^^ 
to have the statistical information regarding the Falls, the 
way to get to them from New-York, the hotels, etc. 

Niagara Falls were seen by Father Hennepin, a Jesnit 
missionary, in 1678, before any other white person ever 
looked upon them. A sketch which he made is copied in 
Hall's State Geological Report, and proves some interesting 
facts about the Falls. There was then a third fall, (or 
fourth, counting the Central as one,) from the Canadian 
side toward the east, across the line of the main fall, and 
caused by a great rock which turned the divided current 
in this direction. This rock fell a few years prior to 1750. 
Lyell, the famous geologist, thinks the falls have receded 
and do recede about a foot every year, varying, however, 
with the formation of the rock which they encounter. 
The present encountered " Niagara limestone" is very dif- 
ficult to cut. The height of the Horseshoe Fall is 164 feet 
on the American and 150 on the Canadian side ; width, 
475 feet. Goat Island, however, occupies about one fourth 
of the space with its 70 acres. The American and Central 
Falls descend 154 feet, the former being 660 and the latter 
243 feet wide. The amount of water discharged is com- 
puted to be 100,000,000 of tons per hour. More water 
passes in these fearful torrents in seven seconds than is 
conveyed through Croton aqueduct in twenty-four hours. 
At the Horseshoe Fall the concussion of the falling waters 
with those in the depths below occasions a spray that vails 
the cataract two thirds up its height. Above this impene- 
trable foam, to the height of 50 feet above the fall, a cloud 



72 SPEiNGS a:n'd falls. 

of lighter spray rises, ■vvliicli, when tlie sun sliines upon it 
in the proper direction, displays magnificent solar rain- 
bows. The sound of the fall varies greatly, much of the 
time being audible only a little way off, and again rolling 
over Lake Ontario, even to Toronto, 46 miles distant. The 
name Niagara signifies " Thunder of Waters.'' The Cat 
Indians, who dwelt near it, used to endeavor to propitiate 
the spirit of its waters by annually sacrificing a human 
victim at its shrine. The most beautiful Indian maiden 
was selected for this honor. In the presence of a great as- 
semblage, she was placed in a white canoe, with the finest 
fruits and flowers, and the fragile bark, pushed out into 
the stream, carried her over this awful portal to eternity. 

Routes. — To reach Niagara from New -York City, one 
may take either Hudson River boats, or Harlem Railway, 
or Hudson River Railway to Athens, Albany, or Troy ; 
thence by New- York Central Railway to Suspension Bridge 
or Niagara Falls, according to the hotel at which one shall 
stop. Or, the Erie Railway will bring passengers from 
New- York to Buffalo, and thence by Central Railway, 21 
miles, to Niagara Falls, or, 22 miles, to the Bridge. Pas- 
sengers from Boston take the New- York Central at Alba- 
ny ; those from the West may come by Buffalo or (better) 
the Great Western Railway of Canada, which crosses the 
Bridge and lands one at the Suspension Bridge depot. 
The fare from New-York to Niagara (either station) is 
regularly $9.35 ; but this is sometimes reduced even as 
low as $5, on account of the great competition. One may 
also reach the Falls from Lake Ontario or Toronto by 
steamboat to Lewiston and New- York Central cars to the 
Bridge or Falls. 

Hotels. — The International is the largest, and is a little 
more than one square from the depot at Niagara Falls 



o 

o 
a 



I 




3/^ 



SPEiNGS a:n-d falls, ^3 

Station. It is cliiefly tlie favorite among transient tourists 
who are only to stay a day or so, as one is most sure of 
always getting a room at tliis immense liouse. Prices, 
$4.50 per day. TelegraiDb. and mail facilities liere as at 
all tlie houses more or less. Omnibus meets all trains. 
Season begins May 9th, lasting six months. Proprietor, 
Mr. James T. Fulton. 

The Cataract House, (omnibus at depot,) closely adjoin, 
ing the International, is gay and fashionable, more apt to 
be crowded with permanent guests, and not materially 
different in rooms or table from its neighbor. Its rear 
balconies command exquisite views of the Rapids and Goat 
Island. Terms and season the same as the International. 
Proprietors, Messrs. Whitney, Jerauld & Co. 

The Clifton House is on the Canada side, kept by Messrs. 
Bromley, Shears & Co., (postal address, Niagara Falls, IST.Y.) 
Rooms for 250 to 300 guests ; terms, |4 per day in Ame- 
rican currency ; telegraph in office ; railway station 2 miles 
distant, either on Canada or New- York side, at the Bridge. 
It is the favorite resort of foreigners and Southerners, and 
commands the finest views of the Falls that can be had 
from any house. Its omnibus meets all trains, preventing 
any necessity for enduring hack-extortions. Open from 
May 15th to November 1st. 

The Monteagie House is the principal hotel at the Sus- 
pension Bridge depot, 2 miles from the depot at Niagara 
Falls. Proprietor, Mr. H. L. De Camp. Terms, $3.50 per 
day ; $14 to $18 per week. Rooms for 200 guests, from 
May 1st to November 1st. Telegraph in railway depot. 
This is a very agreeable, quiet house, where one who pre- 
fers to be at a little distance from the Falls, and to spend 
some time, will find it pleasant to stop. The hotel omni- 
bus conveys passengers to and from the depot, a distance 



Y4: SPEIXGS AXD FALLS. 

of less tlian a quarter of a mile. Mr. De CamxD also keeps 
the New- York Central House, a very pleasant little inn, 
standing a few feet from the depot at the Bridge, with 
accommodations for 100 guests, and a plain but good 
table. For travelers consulting economv, or convenience 
to the cars at the Bridge, we would especially recommend 
it. Terms,- $3 per day. 

KIAGAEA EIYES TO LEWISTON. 

The great wonder of the world which the tourist comes 
to see on the precipice of the Xiagara River, is supple- 
mented and sometimes belittled bv the cupidity of men. 
But there is a great deal of interesting scenery, and a 
number of important historical localities, upon the whole 
length of the river between the two great lakes which the 
Niagara joins. If the reader please, we will separate these 
from the tour proper of the Falls, and collect them here. 

The most usual mode of conveyance from Buffalo to the 
Falls of Niagara, and thence to Lake Ontario, or into 
Canada, is by the Buffalo, Niagara Falls, and Lewiston 
Branch of the New- York Central Bail way, 2S miles in 
length. It runs through Tonawanda, 11 miles ; Niagara 
Falls, 22 miles ; Suspension Bridge, 24 miles, connecting 
mth the Great Western Railway of Canada, and termi- 
nates at Lewiston, the head of navigation on Niagara 
River, 28 miles. 

Another route is by the steamboats of the Ontario 
Steamboat, (American Express Line Company,) from Buf- 
falo to Toronto, Tia ^Yelland River and Canal. A third 
route is from Buffalo by a railway on the Canada side, but 
under the Erie direction, caUed the Erie and Ontario, start- 
ing from the Lake Huron (Grand Trunk) depot. By this 
route one passes in full view of the Falls, to the Clifton 



as/ 

SPRINGS AND FALLS. 75 

House, 3 miles below Chippewa ; Suspension Bridge, 5 
miles ; Queenstown, 11 miles, terminating at Niagara, Pro- 
vince of Ontario, 35 miles from Buffalo. 

As tlie steamboat leaves Buffalo, a fine ^iew may be ob- 
tained of Lake Erie and both, sliores of Niagara River. 
On tlie Canada side, tlie first objects of interest are the 
ruins of old Fort Erie, captured by tlie Americans, July 3d, 
1814. It is situated at the foot of the lake, opposite tlie 
site of a strong fortress wliicb tlie United States have 
erected for tlie protection of tlie river and tlie city of 
Buffalo. 

The Niagara River commences at Bird Island, nearly 
opposite the mouth of Buffalo harbor, and passes by the 
site of old Fort Erie and Waterloo (3 miles distant) on the 
Canada side. At the latter place a steam ferryboat plies 
across the river to Black Rock, now forming a part of the 
city of Buffalo. It is here proposed to construct a railway 
bridge across the stream, about 1800 feet in width. The 
Buffalo and Lake Huron Branch of the Grand Trunk (Ca- 
nadian) Railway starts from this point, and extends to 
Goderich, on Lake Huron, crossing the Great ^Yestern 
Railway at Paris. 

Grand Island, attached to Erie county, N. T., is passed 
on the right as we descend the river. This was the spot 
on which Major M. M. Noah, formerly a x)rominent mem- 
ber of the New- York press, hoped to assemble all the 
Hebrew populations of the world. Near the ferry there 
was once an observatory, or pagoda, 100 feet high, from 
which a grand view of the region was gained. This spot 
is called Point View. The island is 10 miles long, from 
north to south, and 7 wide ; has 11,000 acres ; is partly 
cleared and cultivated, while the larger portion is covered 
mth a large gro-^ih of oaks and other forest -trees. 



76 SPEINGS AND FALLS. 

Squaw Island and Strawberry Island are both small 
islands lying on tlie American side of tbe stream, near tlie 
head of Gfrand Island. The river is here used in part for 
the Erie Canal, a pier extending from Squaw Island to 
Bird Island, forming a large basin, called Black Rock 
Harbor. 

Cayuga Island and Buckhorn Island are small bodies of 
land belonging to the United States, situated immediately 
below Grand Island. 

J^avy Island, lying opposite the village of Chippewa, 
18 miles below the head of the river, is a celebrated island 
belonging to the Canadians, having been taken possession 
of by the s^Tiipathizing patriots in 1837^ when a partial re- 
bellion occurred in Upper and Lower Canada. 

There are, in all, upward of 30 islands lying in the 
Niagara River above the falls. Those just named are the 
chief, and almost the only ones worth naming. 

Tonawanda, 11 miles below Buffalo, is situated at the 
mouth of Tonawanda Creek, opposite Grand Island. The 
Erie Canal here enters the creek, which it follows for 
several miles on its course toward Lockport. A railway 
also runs to Lockport, connecting with the Xew-Tork Cen- 
tral Railway, extending to Albany. A ship-canal is pro- 
posed to be constructed from Tonawanda to some eligible 
point on Lake Ontario, thus forming a rival to the Welland 
Canal of Canada. 

Chippewa, 20 miles below Buffalo, and 2 miles above 
the Falls, is on the west side of Niagara River, at the 
mouth of a creek of the same name, which is navigable to 
Port Robinson, some 8 or 10 miles west, the latter place ' 
being on the line of the Welland Canal. The village of 
Chippewa contains a population of about 1000 souls. 
Steamboats and lake craft of a large size are built at this 



323 

SPEINGS AND FALLS. 17 

place for tlie trade of Lake Erie and the Upper Lakes. It 
lias obtained a place in liistory on account of tlie bloody 
battle wliicli was fonglit near it in tbe war of 1812, 
between the United States and Great Britain. The battle 
was fought on the 5th of July, 1814, on the plains a short 
distance south of the steamboat landing. The American 
forces were commanded by Brigadier-General Winfield 
Scott, in the absence of Major-General Jacob Brown, and 
the British by Major-General Kiall. The latter, after an 
obstinate and sanguinary fight, was defeated with con- 
siderable loss. 

Drummondsville, one mile west of the Falls, and situat- 
ed on Lundy's Lane, is celebrated as the scene of another 
sanguinary engagement between the American and British 
forces, July 25th, 1814. 

Schlosser's Landing, 2 miles above Niagara Falls vil- 
lage, is a noted steamboat landing, opposite Chippewa, 
from whence the steamer Caroline was cut adrift by the 
British and destroyed, by being precipitated over the Falls 
during the Canadian rebellion, December 29th, 1837. 

The ship or steamboat channel runs along the bank of 
Grand Island to nearly opposite Chippewa, where the 
whole stream unites before plunging over the Falls of 
Niagara, being again separated at the head of Goat Island. 
From this point the awe-struck traveler can scan the quiet 
waters above, and the raging rapids below, preparing to 
plunge over the cataract. Below Navy Island, between 
Chippewa and Schlosser, the river is nearly 3 miles in 
width, but soon narrows to 1 mile, when the rapids 
commence and continue for about 1 mile before reaching 
the edge of the precipice at the Horse-Shoe Fall. At the 
commencement of the rapids, " the bed of the river de- 
clines, the channel contracts, numerous large rocks heave 



78 SPRINGS AXD FALLS. 

up tlie rolling surges and dispute tlie passage of the now 
raging and foaming floods. The mighty torrent, leaping 
down successive ledges, dashing over opposing elevations, 
hurled back by ridges, and repelled from shores and is- 
lands — plunging, boiling, roaring — seems a mad wilder- 
ness of waters striving against its better fate, and hurried 
on to destruction by its own blind and reckless impetuosity. 
Were there no cataract, these rapids would yet make Nia- 
gara the wonder of the world." , 

Iris or Goat Island commences near the head of the ra- 
pids, and extends to the precipice, of which it forms a part, 
separating the American Fall from the Canadian or Horse- 
Shoe Fall. Ifc is about half a mile in length, 80 rods wide, 
and contains over 60 acres of arable land, being for the 
most iDart covered mth a hea"\y growth of forest-trees of a 
variety of species, and native plants and flowers. A portion 
of the island, however, has been cleared ofl", and a garden 
inclosed, in wliich are some excellent fruit-trees, and a 
variety of native and foreign plants and flowers, and a 
fish-pond. The island is remarkably cool, shady, and plea- 
sant, and is an object of unceasing admiration from year 
to year. Comfortable seats and arbors are placed at the 
most interesting points, where the visitor can sit at ease 
and enjoy the beautiful and sublime views presented to 
his sight, often entranced by a deafening roar of mighty 
waters in their descent, accompanied by changing rain- 
bows of the most gorgeous description. 

Among the places pointed out as interesting to visitors, 
near the Falls, is Bender's Cave, midway between the Sus- 
pension Bridge and the Clifton House. It is a recess, 6 
feet high and 20 in length, made by a decomposition of the 
limestone. Termination Rock occupies a recess behind 
the centre of the Horse-Shoe Fall, reached by the descent 



3 zS^ 



SPEINGS AXD FALLS. ^9 

of a spiral stairway from Table Eock, tlie traverse for a 
sliort distance of tlie rude marge of tlie river, and tlien 
of a narrow path, over a friglitful ledge and tlirongh. tlie 
blinding spray, beliind tbe miglity fall. Before descend- 
ing, visitors should make a complete cliange of toilet for a 
rough costume more suitable for the stormy and rather 
damp journey before them. The Museum, (see p. 189,) 
near Table Rock, contains specimens of minerals, birds, 
fishes, and animals, many of which were collected in the 
neighborhood of the Falls. Admittance, which includes 
the use of the dress, and admission behind the sheet, 50 
cents. The Burning Spring is near the water, 2 miles 
above the Falls. The carbonated sulphuretted hydrogen 
gas here gives out a brilliant flame when lighted. (Before 
visiting this place, the tourist will do well to read the note 
on page 189, under the sketch of Niagara Falls.) 

Below the Falls, the first objects of interest are the 
Ferry Stairs and Point Yiew on the American side. About 
30 rods below the Ferry Stairs is the spot where the her- 
mit Abbot was drowned. . Half a mile below the latter 
point is Catlin's Cave, formerly much frequented. 

The Suspension Bridge, the greatest artificial curiosity 
in America, is situated two miles and a half below the 
Falls. Its total length, from centre to centre of the towers, 
is 800 feet ; its height above the water, 258 feet. The first 
bridge, which was built by Mr. Charles EUet, was a very 
light and fairy-like aflair, in comparison wdth the present 
substantial structure. The bridge, as it now stands, was 
constructed under the direction of Mr. John A. Roebling, 
at a cost of $500,000. Here has recently sprung into exis- 
tence the village of Suspension Bridge, on the American 
side, and Clifton, on the Canadian side of the river, here 
being about 800 feet in width, with perpendicular banks 
of 325 feet. 



80 spei:n"GS and falls. 

The railway ride (New- York Central) from Suspension 
Bridge to Lemston is one of the grandest in the world. 
Tlie cars follow the bank of the river, and the views of 
the maininoth ravine are wonderfully exciting. Xo one 
should miss this excursion ; no carriage-ride can surpass, 
perhaps none can equal it. 

The Whirlpool and Rapids, 1 mile below the bridge, 
are sights of great interest, and well worthy a visit. The 
Whirlpool, 3 miles below the Falls, (American side,) re- 
sembles in its appearance the celebrated Maelstrom on the 
coast of Norway. It is occasioned by the river making 
nearly a right angle, while it is here narrower than at any 
other place, not being more than 30 rods wide, the current 
running with such velocity as to rise up in the middle 10 
feet above the sides. This has been ascertained by measure- 
ment. There is a path leading down the bank to the 
Whirlpool on both sides, and though somewhat difficult to 
descend and ascend, it is accomplished almost every day. 
The Devil's Hole, 1 mile farther down, is also a point of 
great attraction, together with the Bloody Run, a small 
stream, where a detachment of English soldiers were pre- 
cipitated in their flight from an attack by Indians during 
the old French war in 1T59. An amphitheatre of high 
ground spreads around and perfectly incloses the valley of 
the Devil's Hole, with the exception of a narrow ravine 
formed by Bloody Run, from which, against a large force, 
there is no escape, except over the precipice. The Ice Cave 
is another object of interest connected with the Devil's 
Hole ; and Chasm Tower, three and a half miles below the 
Falls, 75 feet high, commands fine views (seen, if you 
please, in all hues, through a specular medium) of all the 
country round. A fee is required. 

The Rapids below the Whirlpool are the next object of 
attraction ; then Queenstown Heights and Brock s Monu- 



w 



o 

§ 







SPEINGS A-NT> FALLS. 81 

ment on tlie Canadian side, and tlie Suspension Bridge at 
Lewiston. Queenstown is well wortliy a visit from the so- 
journer at tlie Falls, and affords a most delightful drive. 
It is historically as well as pictorially interesting. Here 
General Brock and. his aid-de-camp McDonnell fell, Octo- 
ber 11th, 1812. Brock's Monument, which crowns the 
heights ^bove the village, is 185 feet high, surmounted by 
a dome of 9 feet, which is reached by a spiral flight of 250 
steps from the base inside. The remains of Brock and his 
comrade lie in stone sarcophagi beneath, having been re- 
moved thither from Fort George. This is the second mo- 
nument erected on the spot, the first having been destroy- 
ed by Lett, in 1840. The Suspension Bridge, at this point, 
was built by two joint-stock companies, one incorporated 
by the Legislature of New-York State, and the other by 
the Provincial Parliament. The roadway is 849 feet long, 
20 feet wide, 60 feet above the water ; cost, |58,000 ; erect- 
ed, 1850. The Niagara Kiver is navigable from Lemston 
to its mouth at Fort Niagara, a farther distance of 7 miles, 
or 14 below the Falls of Niagara. See sketch entitled 
Lake Ojs^tamo and Riyer Saint Lawrence, which 
takes up the journey at Lewiston, and continues it to the 
Gulf of Saint Lawrence. 

Before we leave our readers to put our counsels to prac- 
tice and test, let us add one or two cautions. Especially 
beware of hackmen ; look upon them as sworn raiders on 
your pockets, and if you must employ them, make your bar- 
gain at the start. Next in importance, let us advise, that 
you be not deceived by any appearance of water or cliff, so 
as to venture into danger. And finally, what we hope you 
will read, friend, before you come within sight of the 
Great Cataract, don't be absurd, and leave your umbrella 
in the cars because you see water falling from a cliff in- 
stead of out of the sky. 



82 SPRINGS AND FALLS. 

BASEE'S FALLS. 

This romantic locality is but little known to the travel 
ing public. It is a cataract in the Hudson River, between 
the ^dllages of Fort Edward and Sandy Hill, in both 
of which places (only 2 or 3 miles axDart) there are 
comfortable inns. The Falls are easily accessible to the 
j)edestrian, and are well worthy a visit. Tourists on the 
way to Lake George will do well to lie over a day at Fort 
Edward, and visit the finest falls which the Hudson River 
can boast of. That magnificent stream is unusually free 
from these picturesque obstructions, and Baker's Falls are 
by no means unworthy even the noble Hudson. The wa- 
ter here shoots down a steep descent of ledges, in all 76 
feet in 60 rods, forming a scene of great beauty, and af- 
fording an extensive water-power. 

PASSAIC FALLS, PATERSdX, 

Paterson, N. J., on the Erie Railway, is celebrated as 
afibrding one of the most romantic waterfalls in the coun. 
try, and the neighboring scene is of a highly j)icturesque 
character. The fall in the Passaic River, originally 70 
feet, (50 feet in the perpendicular line,) has been increased 
to about 90 feet by a dam above. From this dam a short 
sluice conducts the water into a basin or reservoir, partly 
made by art and partly by nature. A causeway has been 
raised across an immense chasm, walled in by rocks, pre- 
senting almost perpendicular sides from the bottom to the 
upper edge of the precipice. The rocks being of basaltic 
character, are rectilinear in form and perpendicular in their 
position, and this accounts for the comparatively smooth 
sides of this immense excavation. Below the causeway 
the chasm continues in its natural state and receives the 
remaining: waters of the river a few rods below. Branch- 



3X^ 



SPEIXGS a:st) falls, 83 

ing off from tlie larger opening, tliere is another, rnnning 
nearly parallel witli the river, which gradually diminishes 
to a mere crevice between the perpendicular sides of the 
rock. Into this crevice the waters of the Passaic, sudden- 
ly turning from their course, leap and dash with an impe- 
tuosity converting the whole mass into foam. Seven 
miles from Paterson, the river passes through the roman- 
tic and picturesque village of Acquackononck, and soon 
reaches the immense flats which border the Hudson River 
and the Bay of New-York on the Jersey side. 




22 



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3 33 



SEASIDE EESORTS. 



LONG EUAITCH, K. J. 

HABiTrES of tlie " Brancli " become accustomed to tlie 
designations of " The Shore/' '' The Lower Pole," and 
"The Pole.'' The first is applied to the sea-shore, 
skirted by hotels and summer cottages, at a convenient 
distance from the beach, upon which, when the white flag 
indicates the proper bathing hour, the most grotesque 
groups, clad in parti-colored costumes, are congregated, 
sporting in the surf with hilarious oMndon, 

The " Pole " indicates the Tillage of Long Branch, and 
at a point where two roads intersect the main village 
street, a majestic liberty-pole has been maintained with 
laudable patriotism many years. This village, some 
two miles from the shore, w^as founded by the fishermen, 
whose humble tenements there foimd greater protection 
from the wintry blasts. 

The " Lower Pole," where a humbler pole is erected, 
is a collection of houses, within half a mile of the shore, 
occupied by the proprietors and others interested in the 
hotel and business establishments of the sea-shore, who 
are thus conveniently near to look after their interests 
during the stagnancy of the bleak winters. 

It is well known that Philadelphians formerly drove 
to this point, then an Indian camping-ground, for bathing 
purposes ; a boarding-house was erected for their accom- 



2 SEASIDE EES0RT3. 

inodation, near tlie present Metropolitan Hotel ; from tMs 
pioneer enterprise gradually sprang others, as the increas- 
ing demand for accommodation wonld justify. 

Tliis leading resort, some 32 miles from New^York, has 
risen to a remarkable degree of favor and prosperity. Last 
year some 50,000 guests were there during the summer. 
The leading hotels pride themselves on their tables and 
accommodations, and the bathing arrangements are such, 
that years have passed by without a serious accident, al- 
though bathers disregard all rules, ofttimes vrith a sui- 
cidal recklessness. Many of the cottages and improved 
grounds are elaborate and costly. Some 7.0 new ones 
have been erected during the winter, and some property 
has increased in value sixteen-fold in four years, real es- 
tate having increased here some $4,000,000, as shown by 
the tax lists. 

Among some elegant artistic efforts, for which this place 
has been drawn upon, is an oil painting by Rosenberg, 
'' Long Branch by Moonlight ;" the scene being laid at the 
bJuff fronting the Continental Hotel. It is a gem, and the 
largest painting we have seen of any watering-place. A 
collection of 100 photographic views of the vicinity, with 
letter-press sketches, is also issued for this season, A 
ma]3 showing the various drives, resorts, cottages, (occu- 
pants,) etc., is also announced for 1868, for the assistance 
of strangers in their peregrinations. 

Hotels. — The largest and principal hotels are, the Me- 
tropolitan, Continental, Mansion House, Howland's and 
Stetson's, designated in their geographical order. The Me 
tropolitan was rebuilt in 1865 by the present firm of Coopei 
& Laird, (Joseph H. Cooper and Samuel Laird.) It is a fine 
structure, in L form, located some 300 yards short of the 
Sea Shore Railway terminus, with a depot on the premises. 



^3:> 



SEASIDE EESORTS. 3 

Capacity, some 600 guests ; terms, $3 to $5 per day. A 
Philadelpliia band is engaged for the season. 

The Continental Hotel, immediately south of the depots, 
was built by the present proprietors, Messrs. Sprague & 
Stokes, in 1866, embracing the old National and Congress 
Hall hotels, as wings to the new structure, presenting a 
solid frontage of 700 feet, with half a mile of galleries. A 
portion of the building extends back 250 feet. The dining- 
room is 75 by 200 feet, the largest ball-room on the Branch, 
if not at any watering-place. The billiard-room has nine 
tables. Bowling-alleys, shooting-galleries, brass and string 
bands, and other accessories are abundantly provided. Ca- 
pacity, 800 guests ; terms, $3 to $5 per day. 

The Mansion House was originally built as the pioneer 
hotel ; it has been owned and kept by Mr. Samuel Laird 
for a number of years; location, adjoining the Continental 
on the south. The house and grounds are well kept up. 
The New- York Seventh Kegiment band furnishes the 
music. Billiard-room in a separate building. Capacity, 
some 300 to 400 ; terms, $4 per day or $25 per week ; 
usually remains open later than other houses. 

Howland's Hotel will be conducted this season by two of 
the original prox^rietors, Messrs. Howland & WTiite, Mr. 
Herbert having retired. The original portion of this 
structure was built over 40 years since. It has been largely 
patronized by Philadelphia families of retired dispositions, 
by some of them since the first opening. Mr. Howland has 
conducted it some 25 years. Capacity, over 300 guests; 
prices ranging same as other first-class houses; location, 
north of the Stetson. 

The Stetson House is located over a mile south of the 
depots, at the farther end of the beach. It was built by a 
company in 1866, and leased to Charles A. Stetson, Jr., & Co. 



4 SEASIDE EESOETS. 

It is liandsomel}- fiirnislied ; the apiDointments are exten- 
sive ; a "billiard and bar-room, etc., provided in a building 
detaclied from the main structure. The latter is in L form, 
presenting two fronts; distinct in appear^snce from any 
other house in having no npx)er galleries ; rows of tall col- 
umns from the ground floor supporting the projecting roof. 
Capacity, 600 to 800 ; terms, §5 per day. 

Gilmore, of Boston, furnished last year the bands for 
this house and the Continental. He will furnish his in- 
imitable music this year to the Stetson at least. 

The Pavilion Hotel is situated about half a mile south of 
the depots, S. C. Morris, proprietor. 

The Bath (or Green's) Hotel, formerly located south of 
the above, destroyed by fire in the spring of 1867, will not 
be rebuilt. Three cottages are erected on the site. 

The United States Hotel, a little south of the Mansion, 
recently bought by Xew-Tork capitalists, has been leased, 
and will be open from July 1st. 

The Clarendon, the nearest to the depots, conducted last 
y^ar by Jenkinson, (now of the Highlands,) will be con- 
ducted by Mrs. Mortimer, who last season had the Cooper 
Cottage. 

The Atlantic, kept by Cristala, about half a mile north 
of the Metropolitan, is largely patronized by those of the 
Israelitish faith. 

Cooper Cottage, near the Metropolitan, is a popular 
boarding-house, with rooms for 100 guests. Samuel Laird, 
proprietor. §3 per day, or §17.50 per week. 

Charles Jackson's Cottage, on the Pleasure Bay road, cor- 
ner Long Branch avenue, is of a similar character, though 
not so large. 

These hotels generally open early in Jtme, and close 
late in September. 



^ s3 7 



SEASIDE EESOETS. 



They are all upon tlie beach, shores, with bathing-grounds 
attached, the principal houses having separate gas-works. 
A company has been formed with the intention of erect- 
ing public gas-works in time to supply the sea-shore this 
summer, and the village in the fall. 

The Dunbarton House is located some 4 miles back 
from the Branch shore, on a fine prominence, a short dis- 
tance from Oceanport Station, kei^t by Mrs. Downs, of Fifth 
avenue, ISTew-York The vicinity abounds in private 
boarding-houses, at prices ranging from $8 to $15 per 
week, and many private families bring into requisition 
every available room during the " season." 

At Deal, some five miles south from the railway ter- 
minus, are two hotels, Hathaway's having been exten- 
sively rebuilt this spring. The bluff does not extend to this 
point. With the new buildings, Hathaway will accom- 
modate 400 guests. Abner Allen's Hotel accommodates 
250 guests. The prices at Deal are moderate, and the 
houses keer) open through the entire season. Telegraph 
and post-oifice at Deal. 

Shark River, a short distance beyond Deal, is a pleasant 
drive from the " Branch ;" and, during the summer, is the 
rendezvous for picnic parties and excursionists, who resort 
thither for boating, crabbing, and to sit in judgment upon 
the relative excellence of these bivalves and those found 
at Pleasure Bay. 

PLEASUHE BAY. 

This is an attractive resort, about a mile north of the 
depot, on the Shrewsbury river, for lovers of boating, fish- 
ing, and aquatic sports, and where bivalves, crabs, and 
shell-fish in considerable variety are found, and served uid 



b SEASIDE EESOSTS. 

in a style of cuisine of the first order. The Xew-Toik 
H I'Ttl is the principal house, built and open^ by Isaac P. 
Gx'j>er, in 1S67. Good accommodation. Bates, $*2.o0 per 
day, or f 15 per week. *' Old man W^t," in the imme- 
diate Tidnity, and Price's Hotel, also afford good entertain- 
ment. Open May 1st to October 1st. 

ATTRAcrrrE Pocsts. — ^The drives are mostly over well- 
graveled tnmpites, that skirting the principal bluff being 
regularly sprinkled- 3ilineral Spring is near Oceanville, 
a drive of two miles from the Stetson House. The waters 
are highly medicinal, as a tonic, one gallon containing 
one and a quarter grains of carbonate of iron. These 
springs are romantically located, and form a pleasant resort. 
A fine park of over 200 acres is be iu g elegantly improved, 
with choice shrubbery, etc., and alr^dy forms a splendid 
drive upon the bluff, south of Stetson's, toward DeaL 
This has been mapped out, and the improvements de- 
signed, in detail, by Olmstead, of the Central Park, Xew 
York. The wrecking station, with life-car, etc., seen upon 
the beach in approaching the above park, is well worth a 
visit : and the officer in charge, Mr. Charles H Green, re- 
sides at the old Green homestead hard by, and will ex- 
plain the modus operandi of the various apparatus. The 
grounds of John Hoey, Esq., are on Cedar avenue, a short 
distance beyond the Stetson, and are magnificently im- 
proved. They are thrown open to the public to as great 
an extent as is compatible vr :]i the labor necessarily be- 
stowed on them. A drive to Eaiontown leads past " Tur- 
tle Mills,'' a most picturesque view. The road over the 
dam^ skirted by willows, the mill-race, and the mill, still 
running, though built before the Eevolution. Another 
fine view is from Xewman Springs, in the vicinity of 
Eatontown and Slirewsbury. At tids point the famed 



^37 



SEASIDE RESORTS. 



Xavesink River takes its rise. Xaiivoo is a cluster of 
fisliermen's residences and ice-liouses, upon tlie "beach, a 
few miles north of the shore, on the large tract of Dr. A. 
V. Conover, who rents it for a nominal sum to the fisher- 
men. Gifford, the Xew-York artist, has made this the 
subject of a fine painting. The euphonious designation of 
Xauvoo is a synonym for Salt Lake City, probably sug- 
gested by the salting of quantities of fish for market. The 
return scene on this beach, of the men and boats, is some- 
times highly romantic. 

PosT-OmcES, ETC. — Branch Shore Post-Oflace, N. J., is 
at the Continental Hotel, and all letters for hotels on the 
beach should be so addi'essed. Telegraph offices at depots, 
Continental, Stetson's, and intermediate points. 

Hack Hire, etc. — To prevent extortion, a recent ordi- 
nance forbids hackmen to charge onore than $2 per hour. 
Omnibuses charge 25 cents from the depot to any hotel. 
Mr. Cooper, of Pleasm-e Bay, will run an omnibus to his 
hotel, from any point on the beach, for the same price, and 
ten cents between different points along the beach. 

Base Ball. — This popular exercise is much in vogue at 
the shore. The " Sea Sides" have played some very suc- 
cessful match games. The " Chelsea Club" is a recent 
organization of amateur gentlemen. 

Routes to Long Branch.— The oldest and permanent 
route is by the Raritan and Delaware Bay Railway by 
boat from Pier 32 Xorth River, at 4 p.m., connecting at 
Port Monmouth ^^ith trains. Returning, leave Branch 
Shore at 7.15 a.:m. These trains run throughout the 
year. During summer, some four trains each way are run. 
Boats touch also at Pier 1, North River. Time-tables in 
the daily papers. Commutation fare, $90 per annum, or 
about $20 per month. 



8 SEASIDE EESOETS. 

Sea Shoee RAiLTrAY. — By tliis road, wliicli runs 
during tlie summer season, boats leave foot of Clarkson 
street, connecting at Sandy Hook \vitli trains running 
along the sliore to tlie Higlilands, and the Long Branch 
terminus. From the loth of June to loth September, 
leave New-York at 10.30 A.M., and 4.00 and 5.15 P.ii. 
Leave Long Branch at 7.15 A.ir., 12.45 and 6.15 p.:m. 
Fare on either road §1, or §1.50 for the round trii3. 

HIGHLANDS OF NAVESINK. 

These commanding bluffs are upon the line of the Sea 
Shore Eailwav, 24 miles from Xew-Tork, or reached bv 
stage, 7 miles from Highland Station, on the Raritan and 
Delavrare Bay Railway, some 7 miles from Long Branch. 
The Red Bank boats touch at the dock. 

Hotels. — Thompson's Atlantic Pavilion is the oldest 
and principal house, on a sloping lawn upon the bluff, 
looking seaward. The steamboat Stewart, belonging to 
the proprietor, conveys guests across the river to the depot 
and to the bathing-grounds, for excursions, etc. Opens 1st 
June and until late in the fall. Rates of charge, $3 per 
day, and lower to families. 

Schenck's Hotel is leased by Charles Jenkinson from 
Long Branch, and is opened on a much improved scale. 
Opening and terms about the same. 

Atteactioxs. — The well-known L^. S. light-house build- 
ing rears its massive towers behind these hotels. The 
^uews from the bluffs are splendid, and the scenery and 
walks rugged and romantic. Elegantly improved cottages 
are springing up on every side. The Xeptune CLub House 
in this vicinity forms a delightful resort for the members 
and their friends through the summer. 



33 J 



SEASIDE RESORTS. 9 

RED BANK, N. J. 

The view of this pretty town, from over the Shrewsbury 
River, upon which it is located, is, in the summer season, 
one of surpassing loveliness. The environs are attractive, 
and afford subjects for many off-hand sketches. Hence it 
is the chosen summer residence of Arthur Lumley and 
other artists. 

The sailing, boating, fishing, crabbing, etc., are very fine, 
and shell-fish abound in profusion. The river affords salt- 
water bathing. 

Hotels.— The Globe Hotel, kept by Hendrickson, is a 
standard, well-kept house throughout the year. French's 
Hotel is at the depot. 

The " Riverside " and " Atkins' " are summer houses, 
open from June to October. Rates, from $2.50 to $3.50 
per day. 

Routes. — By the Raritan and Delaware Bay Railway, 
on express trains, same time as to Long Branch. Time, 
one hour from New- York. 

By steamboats Sea Bird and Helen, from New- York, 
changing time half-hour each day with the tide. Monthly 
time-tables in advance in New-York papers. The distance 
is about the same as that of the Highlands. 

NEWPORT, AND SURROUNDINGS. 

To Newport, the most elegant watering-place of the 
United States, as Saratoga is the most popular, there is a 
great variety of routes from New- York City, the chief dif- 
ference in them being according to a traveler's preference 
for the rapid rail journey, a voyage partly by river, or one 
by the Sound. The nearest approach to an all-rail route 
begins at Twenty-seventh street depot, New- York, 8 A.M., 



10 SEASIDE EESOETS. 

and readies Providence in 8 hours by tlie Sliore Line, going 
tlience to Newport direct by steamboat in 2 bours — a con- 
stantly interesting sail. Or one may take tbe Hartford 
boat from Peck Slip, East River, and from Hartford take 
tbe Providence, Hartford, and Fisbkill (more properly called 
tbe Boston, Atlantic, and Erie) Railway, 4 bours to Provi- 
dence, wbence by boat as before. Tbe principal and most 
fasbionable route, bowever, is tbat tbrougb Long Island 
Sound, by tbe Fall River Line of steamers, from Pier 28 
Nortb River, foot of Murray street, Xew-Tork City, 5 p.:j.i., 
to Newport direct, arriving early in tbe morning. Tbe 
boats, wbicb are among tbe finest on tbe Sound, are tbe 
Metropolis, Capt. Simmons, and tbe Newport, Capt. Brown, 
Fare, $4 ; state-room and supper, $1 eacb. A messenger 
of Dodd's Express will call for baggage to go by tbis line, 
in New- York and Brooklyn, upon notice being left at 
offices — foot of Cortlandt street, Nortb River, and 944 Broad- 
way, New-York, and at No. 1 Court street, Brooklyn. 

Arrived at Newport, tbe visitor finds any number of 
stages at tbe wbarf or depot, ready to convey bim to a 
botel. Tbe Ocean House is tbe most fasbionable, and tbe 
nearest to tbe beacb, being on Bellevue avenue, corner of 
Bowery street, about balf a mile up from tbe wbarf. Ca- 
pacity for 600 guests ; generally open from June lotb to 
September lOtb ; telegrapb office in tbe bouse ; post-office 
near ; New- York and Boston papers always on band ; table 
tolerable ; terms, |5 per day — same by tbe week or season. 
Tbe Atlantic House is situated at tbe corner of Pelbam and 
Touro streets, directly opposite Touro Park and tbe pid 
Stone Mill. It is kept by William W. Hazard, assisted by 
Jobn Peckbam as clerk, and tbe post-office address is Box 
893, Newport, R. I. It vnll accommodate 250 guests, and 
is generally open from May to October. Tbe bouse is 




I ■!.;; '^,,.., IM^^^^^^^^^ ' 



SEASIDE EESOETS. 11 

liglited bv gas and heated by steam — a verv important 
item to tliose who sojourn in XeT^^ort. There is a tele- 
graph, station near by. The Atlantic House was used by 
the Government as a Naval School during the late civil 
war. Always supplied with New-York and Boston papers. 
The Aquidneck House is situated at the corner of Pelham 
and Carne streets, just below the Atlantic. It is kept by 
AYilliam Hodges, assisted by B. A. Winslow, as clerk. 
Post-office address, Box 777, Newport, E. I. It will accom- 
modate 150 guests, and is open the year round. The Pel- 
ham Street House is a short distance below the Aquidneck, 
at 1.2 Pelham street ; proprietor, James T. Potter ; Box 779, 
post-office address ; open all the year, and will accommo- 
date 60 x^ersons; terms for the summer of 1868, $.2.50 per 
day, and §12 per week. The Perry House is situated 
opposite Washington Square, at the head of Long, or 
Steamboat "Wharf; proprietor, George "W. Hodges; Box 
784. This house is nearly new, first class, accommodating 
150 guests, and is the nearest the railway, wharf, and the 
business part of the city. Shanahan's Opera-House adjoins 
it — the finest theatre, outside of Boston, in New-England, 
128 by 50 feet, seating 1000 persons. The prices at the Perry 
House are, for the summer, from $3.50 to SI: per day, 
according to rooms taken; $15 to $25 per week. In 
the winter the charge is $3 per day. The United States 
Hotel (George H. Copeland, Box 787) is on the corner of 
Thames and Pelham streets, near the Providence boat 
landing, in the business section. Capacity, 60 guests; 
open all the year; prices from $2.50 to $3 per day. 
There are also many large boarding-houses in and near 
Newport, which are always well patronized. The most 
popular method of li\ung, however, among the leaders of 
fashion^ has become the dwelling in cottages, purchased or 



12 SEASIDE RESOETS. 

rented for tlie summer, and really among tlie finest attrac- 
tions of the place as a summer resort, albeit their increase 
has been marked by a falling off in hotel patronage. The 
extreme charges of. the leading hotels have seriously injur- 
ed the popularity of Newport with such tourists as can not 
afford time or money for the elegant cottage-life. 

The facilities for surf-bathing at Newport are not excelled 
by any place in this country. There are three fine beaches, 
called Easton's, Sachuest's, and Smith's. Easton's is the 
one generally used by the majority; and it is so situated 
that there is no danger to the bathers from under-currents, 
while the breakers follow each other in majestic succession. 
This beach is about half a mile from the principal hotels, 
and public conveyances ply regularly to and fro. 

The drives about Newport are excellent. In 1867, a new 
one was made by the city authorities, commencing at Belle- 
vue avenue, near the Ocean House, and continuing south 
2 miles ; thence west 3 miles, along the shore ; thence 
north 1 mile ; and thence north-east to Bellevue avenue, 3 
miles. The entire drive is 10 miles long, 80 feet wide, and 
is macadamized. It is pronounced the best one in the coun- 
try, and some of the finest residences in the city are located 
on it. An unobstructed ^-iew of the Atlantic Ocean is afford- 
ed for nearly the entire length of this road. 

Near Sachuest Beach, at the northern extremity of the 
Bluff, is a dark chasm called Purgatory. By actual meas- 
urement, the chasm is 160 feet in length ; from 8 to 1-4 feet 
vdde at the top ; from 2 to 24 feet wide at the bottom ; 50 
feet depth at the outer edge ; and 10 feet of water at low 
tide. Near by are the Hanging Rocks, within whose 
shadow it is said that Bishop Berkeley wrote his Minute 
Philosopher. The Glen and the Spouting Cave are charm- 
ing places to ride to, when the weather invites. Lily Pond, 



3V3 



SEASIDE EESORTS. 13 

tlie largest slieet of spring water on tlie island, is easily 
reached from Spouting Cave. The waters of the pond 
swarm with perch. 

The city of Newport is so ancient, and once so prominent 
a town, that it would be of interest tb the visitor, wholly 
apart from its present fashionable relations. Indeed, New- 
port may be said properly to be two places — an old metro. 
X^olis, and a watering-place ; and, like Quebec reversed, it 
has its upper, or new town, and its lower, or old town. 
The harbor is one of the best and deepest in the world. 
The entrance to it is 2 miles in width, 29 fathoms in depth, 
and in only one instance has it been closed by ice since the 
first settlement. As late as 1769, the city exceeded New- 
York in the extent of her foreign and domestic commerce. 
In the Eevolution, the British long held possession of the 
place, during which time (till 1797) the population decreas- 
ed from 12,000 to 4000. Among the interesting relics to 
be found in the town are : Franklin's j)rinting-press, im- 
ported by James Frankhn in 1720. It is in the ofiBce 
of the Newport Mercury, established in 1758. Upon this 
press the first newspaper issued (1732) was printed. The 
Chair of State, in which Benedict Arnold sat at the recep- 
tion of the charter in 1663, is in the possession of the Gould 
family. The First Baptist Church, founded in 1688, and 
claimed as the oldest church in Rhode Island, is worthy a 
visit. 

Newport was the birthplace of the gifted miniature- 
painter Malbone, and Gilbert Stuart's place of nativity 
may be seen in Narraganset, across the bay. Stuart made 
two copies of his great Washington picture for Rhode 
Island, one of which may be seen in the State-house at 
Newport, and the other in that at Providence. 

The Old Stone Mill, in Touro Park, opposite the Atlan- 



14 SEASIDE RESOETS. 

tic House, is a cmiositv, and is tenderly cared for by the 
city authorities. It is sometimes called the Bound 
Tower. The origin and early history of this " old 
mill" is a mystery, and has led to many fruitless 
conjectures. Some ** antiquarians claim for it the honor 
of having afforded a secure shelter to the Norsemen, 
who, they say, built it as a lookout and a tower of de- 
fense; but the modern observers deny it this enviable 
renown, and maintain that it was built by Governor 
Benedict Arnold, the first charter governor of the 
colony, who owned the property at the time of his death, 
and calls it in his will " my stone-built windmill." Red- 
wood Library, near the opera-house, established by Abra- 
ham Redwood in 1750, contains one of the very best col- 
lections of paintings, choice books, and statuary in the 
country. The Jewish Synagogue, on Touro street, was 
built in 1672, and up to the Revolutionary War was regu- 
larly opened for worship, and was the only place in Xew- 
England where Hebrew was chanted and read weekly. 
There were many families of wealthy and influential Jews 
in Newport at that time ; now there are none. Abraham 
Touro left $20,000 in charge of the town authorities, the 
interest to be expended in keeping the synagogue and 
grounds, and street leading to it, in repair; and the 
wishes of the donor have been carefully complied with. 
Besides these places, the visitor should see the Perry 
Monument, Commodore Perry's house, built in 1763, and 
long known as the " Granary ;" the fortifications in the 
harbor, Fort Adams, Fort Wolcott, Fort Brown, and the 
Dumplings. Fort Adams, on Brenton Point, is one of the 
largest works in the United States, mounting 460 guns. 

Passing now out of Newport itself, we find ourselves in 
the midst of a most interestino; and beautiful region. 



SEASIDE PwESORTS. 15 

Half-way between Providence and Xewport, tlie two cap- 
itals of great Eliode Island, is Rockv Point, a favorite 
resort. Marked Rock is another famous excursion place, 
a few miles liigker up the bay. It is reached, in 40 
minutes from Providence by boat. The towns of Warren 
and Bristol, across the bay, are each worthy of a visit. 
They may both be reached several times a day from Prov- 
idence, xia the Warren and Bristol Railway. Mount Hope, 
the famous home of the renowned King Philip, the last 
of the Wampanoags, is just below Bristol, upon Mount 
Hope Bay, an arm of the Narraganset on the east. From 
the crown of this pictm-esque height is beheld a fine pano- 
rama of the beautiful Rhode Island waters. In summer- 
time, boats ply twice a day on excursion trips from Provi- 
dence to various rural points down the bay, charging 50 
cents only for the round trip. Rocky Point is the most 
favored of all these rural recesses. Thousands visit it in 
the course of the season, and feast upon delicious clams, 
just draAvn from the water, and roasted on the shore in 
heated seaweed, upon true and orthodox '' clam-bake " 
principles. The hotel is large and well fitted up, with 
100 acres of ground, bathing-houses, and an observatory, 
about 125 feet above the summit of the hill. Bowling- 
alleys, billiard-rooms, pistol- galleries, etc., are on the 
grounds, and boarders at the hotel have the use of them 
at reduced rates. Proprietors, Messrs. De Camp & Cole. 
Rooms for 200 to 400 guests ; prices, $4 per day, $25 for 
single persons, and $20 for each of two together, per week. 
The city of Providence is beautiful, and a very worthy 
place for the tourist to spend a little time in ; but it is 
said to be the wealthiest city (proportionately to its popu- 
lation) in America, and the self-possession resulting there- 
from has hindered the establishing of any hotels worth 
the name; the visitor ^ull therefore make the tour of 



16 SEASIDE EESOETS. 

the city to advantage Tvitliin the sunny hours of a single 
day. Very moderate accommodation can be had at the 
Aldrich House, (new,) near the railway depot, and the 
City Hotel, (old,) near Broad street. 

The city was founded by Roger Williams in 1636, and is 
the seat of Brown (Baptist) University, a very interesting 
place to see. Providence was once a very important com- 
mercial depot, its rich ships crossing all seas ; and at the 
present day the city is equally distinguished for its manu- 
facturing and commercial enterprise. In the former de- 
partment of human achievement it early took the lead, 
wliich it still keeps, the first cotton-mill which was built 
in America being still in use in its surburban village oi 
Pawtucket; and some of the heaviest mills and print- 
works of the Union being now in operation within its 
limits. It has also extensive manufactories of machinery 
and jewelry. 

At Hunt's Mill, three or four miles distant, is a beauti- 
ful brook with a picturesque little cascade, a drive to 
which is among the morning or evening pleasures of the 
Providence people and their guests. Yue de I'Eau is the 
name of a picturesque and spacious summer hotel, perched 
upon a liigh terrace 4 miles below the city, overlook- 
ing the bay and its beauties for many miles around. 

The What Cheer Rock, where Williams landed, on the 
shore of a bay in Seekonk River, is a place of much beautv 
as well as historic merit. 

At Portsmouth Grove the celebrated Rhode Island Coal 
Mines are located. The south and main shaft is worked 
by the Mount Hope Coal Mine Company. It is worked 
down 1265 feet below the surface of the earth, on a slope 
of 33 degrees. 15,000 tons of coal are mined annually. 
It is supplied with engines and breakers, and with fric- 



3V7 



SEASIDE EESORTS. 17 

tion gear for hauling of the most improved pattern, and 
lias a wharf and railway tracks to facilitate shipping. 

The north shaft is worked bv Messrs. Crocker & Broth- 
ers, (Taunton Copper Company,) who have a smelting-works 
on the ground and another in Taunton, and they use this 
coal exclusively at both places, and consider it the best 
for smelting copper and zinc ores. They mine from 8000 
to 10,000 tons annually, using about 40 tons per day for 
generating steam. This shaft is 600 feet below the sur- 
face, on a slope. The quality is constantly improving 
and the supply is thought to be inexhaustible. 

The coal is a very sharp red ash, possessing a large pro- 
portion of carbon, and an entire absence of sulphur. It is 
extensively used in stoves and modern furnaces, and is 
considered a superior fuel. 

A large army hospital was located here during our late 
civil war. 

The northern limit of this town is the dividing-line be- 
tween Rhode Island and Massachusetts. It is quite a re- 
sort during the summer season, and the best of fishing, 
boating, and bathing privileges can be obtained. The 
Lawton House, seen about a mile from the station, is a 
new one, furnished with all necessary modern improve- 
ments, and kept in first-class style. 

A turnpike road diverges from here toward Seconnet 
Point, distant to the south about 13 miles, passing through 
Tiverton Four Corners and Little Compton. 

The Seconnet River is crossed at Tiverton, opposite the 
Lawton House, on a substantial stone bridge, several hun- 
dred feet in length, and the railway crosses on a bridge 
about 1500 feet long, built in a most improved manner, 
with a pivot draw-bridge, and TO feet of water under it in 
the main channel, the whole costing $75,000. 



IS SEASIDE EESORTS. 

Tiverton was once noted as tlie location of tlie battle- 
grounds of tlie Indians in earlier rears^ and there are 
many places that bear aboriginal names in consequence. 
The surrounding view from Tiverton Heights is a beau- 
tiful one. 

The road from Tiverton to Xewport, 14 miles, is laid 
along the west shore of the island of Rhode Island; 
and an excellent view of Xarragansett Bay, with its 
islands, is given. This is one of the pleasantest railway 
rides in New-England in the summer season. 

Fall River, north-east from Xewport, and the terminus 
of the Fall River line of steamboats before communication 
by rail was completed, takes its name from a stream by 
that name, whick here falls into the bay from the east, by 
a descent of over 130 feet. This river forms the outlet of 
Watuppa Ponds, which lie about 2 miles east of the city, 
and from which comes the principal water-power of the 
place. Fall River is almost without a parallel in respect 
to the union of an extensive hydraulic power with a posi- 
tion immediately upon navigable water. At its highest 
elevation, it is 150 feet above the level of the sea. The 
sunset views from here have been pronounced as beautiful 
as those of Italy, and the surrounding scenery is thought 
to be superior to any in Xew-England. The harbor is 
safe, easy of access, and of sufficient depth for the largest 
ships. 

Mount Hox^e is situated on one of the islands across the 
bay, and was once the home of the Indian Eong Philip 
and his tribe. Probably in no place in Xew-England can 
be heard so many legends of the Indian tribes, and no- 
where are the names of the celebrated chiefs so well 
perpetuated. ♦ 



3V? 



SEASIDE EESOSTS. jg 

THE COXXECTICUT SHOEE. 

STRATFORD, CT. 

An early arrival bv tlie boat at New-Haven enabled us 
to take the first train westward, wliicb. in half an hour left 
ns at Stratford. This village, like nearly all the settle- 
ments in this part of New-England, was settled early in 
the ITth century. The green, or public square, where the 
church stands, dates back to about 1750. The quiet streets, 
and ancient, towering trees, under which wander the beaten 
paths, not strictly lined out, but winding through the 
green turf, impress the ^i.sitor with a Sunday feeling, 
and remind him of English villages, till some ambitious, 
heavy-corniced dwelling, erected by some townsman come 
home rich from the city, banishes the idea, and recalls the 
progressiveness of this "' great country." There is no inn 
here, and the rule for the wicked stranger who invades 
the place is, that he pass on or starve. Our errand carried 
us to the shore, and from thence can be seen, and reached 
by such as love to go down to the Sound in cockle-shell 
boats, a house of resort for fishermen and transient visitors*, 
kept by Mr. George Smith— a place which has the appear- 
ance of a pleasant sportsman's retreat. The shore here is 
flat, marshy, and uninviting, and we being faint with hun 
ger, besieged by a legion of fierce and fell mosquitoes, ap- 
parently bent on avenging the wrongs of their Indian 
predocessors, and obliged to hold our only intercourse at 
that early hour with a deaf citizen by writing with chalk 
on his door, beat a retreat, and took the next train west- 
ward. 

FAIRFIELD. 

Fairfield, our next stopping-place, lies three miles west 



20 SEASIDE EESOETS. 

of Bridgeport. Tlie busy streets and glaring piles of brick 
wliicb. Bridgeport boasts, were i^assed bv without a tear. 
But tlie sliadj walks, the flowers, tlie delightful dwellings, 
with their lawns and gardens, the air of quiet refinement 
at Fairfield, might well tenipt the weary traveler to stop 
and seek repose. He would not be disappointed under 
the quiet, hospitable roof of the Fairfield House, where 
mine host is capable and kind, and the table is certain to 
please. Fairfield has one of the finest bathing beaches on 
the Sound. It lies within half a mile of the village, and 
the sea-view from it is limitless and ocean-like. The 
neighboring country is gently rolling, highly cultivated, 
and afibrds beautiful drives. Like many Xew-England 
villages, peaceful Fairfield has its history of blood and 
terror. The infamous Tryon attacked and burned the 
whole place in July, 1779. We copy from Dr. Dwight's 
graphic description the following : " ^Yhile the town was 
in fiaihes, a thunder-storm overspread the heavens, just as 
night came on. The conflagration of near 200 houses 
illumined the earth, the skirts of the cloud, and the waves 
of the Sound, with a union of gloom and grandeur. The 
sky speedily was hung with the deepest darkness, wher- 
ever not tinged by the melancholy lustre of the flames. At 
intervals, the lightnings blazed with a vi^-id and terrible 
splendor. The thunder rolled along, and beneath, the 
roaring of the fires filled up the intervals with a deep and 
hollow sound. Add to this, the sharp sound of muskets 
occasionally discharged, the groans here and there of the 
wounded and dying, and the shouts of triumph ; then place 
before your eyes crowds of miserable suflerers, mingled 
with bodies of militia, and from the neighboring hills 
taking a farewell prospect of their property and their 
dwellings, their haj)piness and their hopes — and you will 



SEASIDE KESOETS. 21 

form a just but imperfect picture of the burning of 
Fairfield." 

As tlie present court-liouse and cliurcb were built ta 
resemble tlie old ones as nearly as possible, tlie village 
green presents much the same appearance as in 1779. 

SAVIN ROCK, NEAR NEW-HAVEN. 

Savin Rock is a popular summer resort, especially with 
New-Haven people. There is a pleasant hotel called the 
Rock House, accommodating 130 guests. It is four .miles 
southward of New-Haven, and a mile from the New-Haven 
Depot on the New- York and New-Haven Railway. During 
the summer, stages run hourly between New-Haven and 
the Rock House. Telegraph station at the house. Messrs. 
Burgess & Renshaw are the proprietors, to whom all 
letters should be addressed at New-Haven. Prices from 
§15 to $25 per week. 

GUILFORD. 

We now returned eastward, the many trains on the New- 
Haven Railway enabling us to go at almost any time, and 
proceeded by the Shore Line as far as the ancient town of 
Guilford, which, like Stratford, dates from about 1639, 
and where is or was, recently still standing in good repair, 
a stone house built in 1640. In this building was solemn- 
ized the first marriage in the town, and a sumptuous wed- 
ding supper was provided of pork and peas . 

The Sea-Side Hotel here is on the shore, half a mile from 
the railway. It is a roomy and pleasant building, with a 
noble piazza or porch, and a good lawn. The host is fully 
-impressed mth the gravity of his position as commandant 
of the central spot around which, in his view, New-England 
revolves. The company is agreeable and somewhat fash- 



22 SEASIDE EESOETS. 

ionable, and doubtless slieds additional lustre upon mine 
host, thus enhancing the splendor of his naturally lofty 
position. The country here is flat and uninteresting, and 
the batliing inconvenient, being upon a stony and muddy 
bottom. 

The Guilford Point House is kept by the veteran Capt. 
Hunt. Accommodations for 100 guests, from June 20th to 
September 20th. Telegraph ofiice at the railway station, 
half a mile distant. Trains from Xew-Haven at 7.30 and 
11.30 A.M., and 4 and 7 p.m. Hotel terms, $3 per day, $18 
per week. Fine fishing, sailing, driving, and a host of 
pretty girls, combine to make the place irresistible. If you 
doubt it, skei)tic, start boldly forth some Saturday after- 
noon, as did your humble servant, and return a champion 
of its excellences. 

There was, till within a few years, a fine hotel at Sa- 
chem's Head in this town, which was destroyed by fire. 
The name w^as derived from the execution by the cele- 
brated Uncas of a captive Pequot chief, whose head was 
cut off and placed in the crotch of a large oak here, where 
the skull remained for many years. 

BEANEOSD AND INDIAN POINT. 

We next took a return train to Branford, which is a 
centre from which at least half a dozen different resorts 
may be visited. There is the Double Beach House with 
its magnificent old oak, known for half a century back as 
one of the finest trees in this vicinity, and its pretty little 
isthmus of sand, washed on both sides by the clear waters, 
and leading to a picturesque rocky and shady knoll, whence 
a broad and lovely view of the sail-dotted Sound is to be 
had, tempting you to linger there for hours. 

The Double Beach House, F. B. Linsley, proprietor, is 



sr^ 



SEASIDE EESORTS. 23 

quite near the Branford Point House, and is a very good 
point for lovers of fisliing. It lias accommodations for 
100 guests, and is open from January to the 1st of Oc- 
tober. The post-office address is Branford, Ct. Tliis I3 
not one of the high-priced houses. Terms, $3 per day, 
$17.50 per week. Splendid place for young men fond of 
yachting and fishing. Eoute, New- York and New-Haven, 
and Xew-Haven and New-London Railways. 

There is the Montevese, a new hotel standing on the 
shore, with a fine beach running immediately in front, and 
which is, we believe, as airy and well-kept a house as might 
be wished, though it has the draw-back of being destitute 
of shade-trees. There is Pine Orchard, noted for the excel- 
lence v^ith which the Sheltons serve up their sea food, and 
which is a cpoiet little house, usually occupied for the sea- 
son by permanent boarders. There are the small hotels 
at Stony Creek, to be reached also more easily from the 
station of that name, and which are favorite resorts for the 
people from inland Connecticut. The pleasant house kept 
by N. C. Frink, at Indian Point, deserves more than passing 
notice. Though his buildings and rooms are small, his 
activity and efforts to make his guests enjoy themselves 
are unbounded. This is the best place to go to for a few 
days of rowing or sailing among the numerous picturesque 
islands which form the groups laid down as the Thim- 
bles, and which afford a specimen of scenery unique in 
this i)art of the country so far as I know. In one of these 
is a secure harbor, quite concealed by high rocks and trees 
from the view of any one pa-ssing along the Sound, and 
larore enouofh for several small vessels to lie in. It was a 
resort of Kidd, the pirate, who lay there ready to x)ounc3 
upon the unsuspecting vessels ''as they sailed, as they 
sailed/' and whither, when pursued, he could retreat, and 



24 SEASIDE EESOETS. 

suddenly disappear from liis enemy as if swallowed up by 
the waves. Like all of Kidd's haunts, the islands have 
their legends of buried treasure among the rocks. They 
are now much frequented by lovers of black-fishing and 
duck-shooting, and the bay of Stony Creek has long been 
famous for its exceedingly fine oysters and other shell-fish, 
of which the guests of Mr. Frink will have abundant op- 
portunity to j udge. Deponent can speak with knowledge 
of the sweetness of the small lobsters, and the magnificent 
grandeur of the great Stony Creek oysters. A word to the 
wise, etc. 

Finally, let us introduce the " forlorn and weary brother " 
for whom these jottings are intended, to the spot of all oth- 
ers where he will find panacea for all his ills. At the head 
of the rocky-shored and island-sprinkled bay of Branford, 
he who is lucky enough to get his first ^iew from the wa- 
ter will observe a long, irregular row of white buildings, 
sharply relieved against a background of hills and trees. 
As he approaches, he will see a large covered saloon or 
pavilion, centrally placed in the building, open on both 
sides to give easy passage to the ever fresh sea breeze, and 
tenanted by provokingly cool and comfortable-looking per- 
sonages. Hastening to land, he will perceive numerous 
sail-boats of all sizes, kept by sundry bold if not ancient 
mariners, for the amusement of the visitors. A billiard- 
room, a bowling-alley, a croquet-ground, a fine grove, lawn, 
and flower-garden, and, not least of all, a kitchen-garden, 
which promises varied and abundant provender enough 
for the most rigid vegetarian, next meet his gaze, and 
cause his features to relax from the knitted froT^Ti of obser- 
vation to the complacent smoothness of satisfaction. As 
he joins the group of cool and happy ones in the open 
saloon, he is aware of a magnificent view of Branford Har- 



SEASIDE EES0ET3. 25 

bor, bounded by low, wooded Mils, specked witli rocky- 
islets, and stretching out beyond into the ocean-like ex- 
panse of the blue, glittering Sound. Wliite sails flit across 
the rippled surface, and far off appear and vanish, as if seek- 
ino- the isles of the blest. The breeze freshens, the sea 
darkens, ever-changing cloud-shapes vary and adorn the 
sky, and the declining sun begins to cast a roseate splendor 
over the water, like the bloom of the gardens of Paradise. 
Move not, until he sinks into darkness, and moonlight sil- 
vers all the sea ! The flood of light is thrown in a broad 
pathway far out upon the watery waste — and one weird- 
looking sail of some homeward-bound vessel glides through 
it like a ghost. You watch it mth half-unconscious inter- 
est ; it seems to lead and beckon you into a dreamy reverie, 
until, when you lose it in the distance, you turn away with 
a sigh that such moments come but seldom in life, or rather 
that we so seldom are in tone to appreciate the beauty and 
suggestiveness which Natm-e is continually flinging broad- 
cast before us. 

On this charming spot is the Branford Point House, kept 
by Mr. King, so long and well known to the citizens of 
New-Haven as an accomplished and attentive landlord. 
For the past two years he has been gradually improving 
and embellishing this place, until it is now one of tlio 
pleasantest retreats on the coast, and has gained a reputa- 
tion which, as is testified by his need of constant enlarge- 
ment, is advancing year by year. Here we ended our day 
of wandering, somewhat distracted by the diverse attrac- 
tions before us, but in a mood fully appreciative of them 
all, and can sincerely recommend those who delight in 
boating, bathing, sea-views, shady walks, or a cool loung- 
ing spot while the dog-star rules, to follow our example. 

The Branford Point House is 8 miles from New-Haven, 



26 SEASIDE RESORTS. 

east of the city, and is leaclied by cars on tlie New-London 
and New-Haven Railway, wliich. runs witliin a mile of tlie 
hotel, or by stages from New-Haven. It will accommo- 
date 200 guests, and lias long been a favorite resort 
with persons residing in all parts of the country. Prkes, 
per week, $12 to $25. The post-office address is Branford, 
at which place there is also a telegraph station. Trains 
leave New-Haven at 6.40, 10.55, 3.15, 6.05 and 11.15. Ex- 
cellent fishing and boating. Good place for families. 

inbia:^ neck. 

This is a cozy little resort, 5 miles from Branford Station. 
There are several i)leasant boarding-houses, but no hotel. 
Accommodations for 50 guests at the Indian Neck House. 
A charming place for bathing and boating, and very quiet. 
Families will find it a desirable resort. Address Benjamin 
E. Goodrich, Indian Neck, Branford, Ct, Price, $10 per 
week. 

East-Ltime, or "Niantic." This pretty village, gene- 
rally known as Niantic, is delightfully situated in full 
view of the Sound, on Niantic Bay, at the mouth of Ne- 
hantic (or Niantic) River. A long, narrow peninsula, upon 
which the railway is constructed, lies between the latter 
and the former, which are united by a narrow channel, 
spanned by the railway bridge. It is a poiDular place of 
summer seaside resort, for fishing, bathing, etc. 

NEW-LONDON^. 

New-London is the favorite among all the summer re- 
sorts on the Sound, its nearness to Pro^ddence, Hartford, 
New-Haven, Boston, and New- York, rendering it very ac- 
cessible. Tlie plying of the steamers between here and 



jr; 



SEASIDE RESORTS. 27 

the metropolis, in connection witli tlie raihvay to all points 
in and out of Xew-England, also aid to pox^ularize Xew- 
London. 

A Stagxaxt Towx. — '*' XeTT-London," writes Junius 
Browne, " is a stagnant old town that imagines it has three 
or four or five thousand inhabitants, but which does not 
seem to have more than half as many. Nothing moves 
there except the fish and the boats in the harbor. The 
natives, who loiter around corner groceries and fish -stalls, 
live so somnolently that, when any thing happens, they 
pinch themselves to determine if they are awake. The 
restlessness of the American character does not belong to 
them. Believing they have done their work in being 
born, they leave affairs to the guidance of Clotho and 
her sisters. Catching fish and eating them comprehend 
the whole of existence ; and sitting in the shade and smok- 
ing, the highest luxuries they long for. 

" We have an esoteric conviction that Xew-London was 
one of the antediluvian villages, which was at the time of 
the Cataclysm too lazy to drown, and consequently floated 
off to the far West, and, after centuries of aqueous con- 
tinuance, lodged against a point of Connecticut, at the 
mouth of the Thames River, and has remained there ever 
since." 

Patkoxage of the Hotel. — The Pequot, with its 8 
cottages, will accommodate about 500 persons, and has 
generally 300 within its boundaries. A number of fami- 
lies are usually here from Xew-York. The price of board 
at the Pequot is §5 per day, wliich is very willingly paid, 
^vith liberal outlays for "extras," by those who think they 
obtain " exclusiveness," and value it as the immediate 
jewel of their serenely complacent souls. 

The other houses of summer resort are the Ocean, on 



28 SEASIDE RESORTS. 

tlie otlier side of tlie harbor, and Tliompson's, further up 
tlie river, in Grot on. Tliey are said to be well patronized, 
but not by New-Yorkers. Tliej make no such, pretension 
to fashion as the Pequot, which entirely ignores their ex- 
istence. 

The villages and cottages about New-London are very 
beautiful, but would api^ear better if they had less the 
air of being starched every morning and ironed out every 
night. Several on the Harbor road we have never seen 
surpassed for elaborate completeness and artificial pre- 
cision. Men are employed to roll the grass and gravel- 
walks constantly, place every pebble in its place, and clip 
every green blade which, after microscox^ic inspection, is 
one hmidredth of an inch aboA^e its fellow. 

Edwin Booth, William Stuart, and other Kevr- Yorkers 
have cottages here. 

EOCKY POINT. 

The Point is pleasant and cool-looking, and the opportu- 
nities for bathing and fishing are excellent. A number of 
people from New-England, New- York State, and the West, 
gather here to spend the summer, preferring the quiet and 
informality, the grateful insouciance of the Point, to the 
greater gayety, the fashionable display, and the rigid 
social exactions of Newport and Saratoga. 

STONINGTON 

is of course not changed. It looks exactly as it did twenty 
years ago. Indeed, no one would believe the staid inha- 
bitants of the place had moved in that time. They might 
have slept, for all they have done in developing or improv- 



357 



SEASIDE TwESORTS. 29 

ing their old-fasMoned village. Tlie glory of Stoniiigton 
is in the past. It looks backward for its farae, and to the 
present and all the future for its drowsy content. The 
motto of Metternich, Quieta non movere, is adopted here, 
and never will be altered. 

Stonington was settled in 1660, or thereabout, and forty 
or fifty years ago was an important commercial and trad- 
ing point. Its whaling interests were next to those of 
Xewport, and for a long while it enjoyed a monopoly of 
sealing. Men now living went to the Shetlands on thre3 
years' voyages, in vessels of 40 or 50 tons. 

Its present population is less than 4000, augmented 
by a few hundreds every summer, and not likely to in- 
crease during the present century. There is a good deal 
of private wealth here, mostly in the hands of retired 
whale and seal-men ; and the town can boast of a number 
of handsome residences. Stonington has, like most Xew- 
England villages, white, gable-ended, green-shuttered, 
cool-piazzaed houses, with shrubbery and pleasant grounds 
about them, relieved by small, time-worn frame tenements, 
suffering from architectural marasmus. 

The hotels are three, the Wadawanuck, Tremont, and 
Steamboat House, though the last two are very small, and 
patronized only by transient people. The Wadawanuck 
is the only hotel worthy the name ; is comfortable and 
pleasantly situated, occupying an entire square with its 
inclosing grounds, which are handsomely laid out. The 
piazzas are broad, the table is very good, and the chambers 
are plain, but neat and airy. 

The "Wadawanuck accommodates about 150 persons 
with entire convenience, but can increase the number to 
200 if necessary. The price of board is §3.50 per day, and 
the patrons of the hotel are mostly families who come here 



30 SEASIDE EESOKTS. 

witli their eliildren for tlie air and batliing, wMcli is good, 
tliougli there is no beach. The distance from here to Pro- 
vidence is 55, and to New- York 150 miles. 

None of the features of a fashionable watering-place life 
are visible here. Those who \isit Stonington are expected 
to find their pleasures in each other, and their satisfaction 
in riding, fishing, and talking. 

Captain R. F. Loper and Mr. Rogers, of Philadelpliia, 
^Warren Stanton, of New-Orleans, Captain Charles P. Wil- 
liams, and Ephraim P. Williams, State Senator, have hand- 
some residences in Stonington. 

NAEEAGANSETT PIEE, R. I. 

Narragansett Pier, in South-Kingston, R. I., situated 
on the sea-shore at the mouth of Narragansett Bay, and 
about one hour's sail from Newport, has been known as 
a watering-place for over tvrenty years. 

At first the patronage was limited, as were the accom- 
modations, there being at that time but one private board- 
ing-house, Benjamin Hadwen, proprietor. As the j)lace 
became more generally known, others turned their atten- 
tion to the business, w^hich has rapidly increas'ed within 
a few years. At present there are nine hotels and board- 
ing-houses, each accommodating from 50 to 100 guests, 
besides a number of cottages which are rented by 
families. A new hotel is in process of erection by Messrs. 
Matthewson & Watson — it being their intention to open 
it the coming season. The demand for accommodations 
still exceeds the supply, so favorably is the place known, 
and many have purchased lots preparatory to erecting 
summer residences. Among the attractions may be men- 
tioned a splendid beach for bathing or riding, pronounced 
by tourists to be the finest in the United States. The 



SEASIDE EESOKTS. 



5^/ 

31 



water deepens gradually, wliicli, vrith. an absence of strong 
currents, renders it perfectly safe. Excellent fishing from 
rocks or boats, while the adjacent country affords many 
pleasant drives and rambles. Narragansett Pier Post-Office 
has recently been established, at which mails are received 
twice daily. Any of the hotels are T\dthin twenty min- 
utes' walk of the beach. Telegraph station at Ivingston 
Depot. It is accessible from Xew-York by steamboat 
(from Pier Xo. 34, Xorth river) to Stonington, thence by 
Stonington Railway to Ivingston, or by the " Shore Line" 
Eailway, (from corner Twenty-seventh street and Fourth 
avenue,) stopping at Kingston. From Boston there are 
several trains daily, via. Providence. Stages connect at 
Kingston with every train. The price of board for the 
coming season will be from $12 to §15 per week for single 
rooms, and from §25 to §30 per week for double rooms, 
according to size and number of occupants. 

HOTELS. 



NAME OF HOUSE. I NAME OF PROPER. 



Hadwen IIous 
Narragansett '• 
Revere " 

Whaley " 

Sea View " 
Atlantic " 

Mettatoxet " 
Atwood " 

lilansion " 



I 
e Beuj. Iladwen. , 
|Esbon Taylor.., 
!Jas. H. Rodman. 
IWm. E. Whaley. 
jWm. J. Browninj 
,Abijah Browning 
LTohn H. Caswell 
.Joshua C. Tucker 
iW. Gr. Caswell. 





Prices 


for Rooms 


Xo. 






80 


Single 


Double. 


$^5 0o 


$25toS30 


60 


15 00 


25 00 


55 


15 00 


24 00 


50 






50 


12 50 


25 00 


SO 


15 00 


25 00 


65 


16 00 


25 00 


1T5 






50 


15 00 





WHEN OPEN. 



In June. 
July to October. 
June 15 to Oct. 15 
July to Oct. 
June to Oct. 
June to Oct. 
June to Oct. 
June. 
June to Oct. 



Applications to any of the above-named proprietors 
should be addressed to Narragansett Pier Post-Office, 
Washington county, R. I. 



32 SEASIDE EESORTS. 

EAST-HAMPTON, LONG ISLAND. 

Of places wliicli the Uase tourist or the invalid covets most ; 
where there are no hotels nor hops ; to which Mr. Potiphar 
doesn't find '' all the parvenus going," and consequently 
doesn't rush himself; where there are tombstones two 
hundred years old, and a similar quaintness pervading 
every thing ; where nobody knows enough to keep a hotel, 
but every body will entertain "company," (at §10 per 
week ;) of such x)laces East-Hampton, on the Long Island 
coast, is one. There is capital surf-bathing at fifteen 
minutes' distance from the town. The means of access 
are by steamboat 'Elver Queen, Peck Slip, to Sag Harbor, 
L. I., thence by stage six or seven miles over a pleasant 
road ; or by the Long Island Railway, from foot of Atlantic 
street, Brooklyn. 

PATCHOGTJE, L. I. 

Long Branch in its success, and Xew^wrt in its desola- 
tion, have had theu' share of attention ; but, Patchogue, 
thy praises at last will be sung. Go to the Long Island 
depot, and procm-e a ticket for Medford, where do you find 
the stage which will take you thither, 4 miles, for 40 
cents. There are two lines ; but ask for Sill's stage. Sill 
is huge ; Sill weighs two hundred and fifty avoirdupois. 
When he gets upon his seat, it bends— it cracks ! But he 
is clever, and it is a pleasure to ride in a comfortable stage. 
The ride to Patchogue is a pleasant one, through the 
woods all the way. There are two or three pretty good 
hotels in the place ; bitt if you can get in, go to Mrs. 
^Yillett's. ^Mien you see her, you will say '-'Grandmo- 
ther" in spite of yourself. Her house is a farm-house, 
large and roomy, with nice, old-fashioned bedsteads, and 



3^3 

SEASIDE EESORTS. 33 

sucli linen as tou will find onlv in Xew-Engiand and Pat- 
cliogue. But tlie food ! Sucli delicious coffee and cream — 
sncli fresh vegetables ! Such, fresh, fish — as blue-fish and 
other members of the finny tribe — such clam fritters ! and 
so might we go on ad infinitum. But go and eat for your- 
selves, and remember us who told you the good news. 

Patchogue has about 3000 inhabitants. It has the look 
of a New-England village, and the people are like ISTew- 
England people. This charming little village is about 
three quarters of a mile from the water. But you have 
no need that we should tell you of the bay whicli runs 
from one end of Long Island to the other. The bay is 
about four miles wide, and when you cross the sand-bar, 
whicli is, i^erhaps, 200 yards across, you come to the ocean. 

Go down about the middle of August and Captain Dan 
will take you out blue-fishing. That's fun, you know. As 
you know, Mrs. Oakes Smith, the distinguished VvTiter, 
lives here, and is much respected and liked. 

LA TOTJEETTE HOUSE, BEEGE]^ POmX. 

Within half an hour's distance of the Empire City lies 
a charming little watering-place, Bergen Point, to wit, 
which is unknown and undreamt-of by the general throng 
of pleasure-seekers, and which consequently may be said 
to "waste its sweetness on the desert air.'' The place has 
many advantages of scenery and location to recommend it, 
besides its sea-side situation. It is buried in the pictu- 
resque woods of New-Jersey, is easy of access, and has 
such genial, invigorating air, that it is a wonder it has re- 
mained so long unknown, and, like the happy valley of 
Easselas, enjoyed only by a favored few. The ride down 
by road, either by the New-Jersey Central Railway, or the 
" dummy engine," or again by the best means of all, a fast 



^4 SEASIDE EESORTS. 

team, prepares one for tlie tliorougli quietness and seclu- 
sion of tlie Point. Tlie plank-road along the sea-shore 
is the most picturesque route of all. It winds all along 
the many curvatures of the Jersey shore ; here it goes 
awhile inland ; again it skirts the marshy flats ; and then 
again it runs close by the water, and one is enabled to 
have a delightful view of the Bay of ISTew-York and the 
wood-crowned steeps of Staten Island. 

The best charm of Bergen Point, however, is its hotel, 
which is unlike most of the country shanties usually digni- 
fied with that title. Xo exorbitant charges frighten the 
visitor away after he has i^erused that interesting docu- 
ment, his first week's bill ; and the landlord, Dr. Armena, 
■understands the difficult art of playing " mine host " with 
ease and propriety. La Tourette House, the hotel mansion, 
is a fine, rambling structure, situated at the very apex of 
the Point, and looking down on the Elill Yan Kull and 
over Staten Island. It is surrounded with trees, and stands 
in its own grounds like a private gentleman's residence. 
The hotel makes np 300 beds, and has accommodation for 
nearly 600 visitors, including the scenic lot, " men, women, 
and children," although the ladies ought, in deference, to 
be placed first. This spot is so retired and shut out from 
the world that one is forcibly reminded of Horace's praise 
of a country life, and is irresistibly led to the conclusion 
that here only can one enjoy that charmed existence — 
solicit CB jucunda oNivia o:itcB — "a sweet forgetfulness of the 
ills of life." Bergen Point can be reached by water as 
well as by land, to wit : Two boats, the Magenta, from 
the foot of Barclay street, and the Eed Jacket, from Liber- 
ty street, run lilther twice a day, and only occupy half an 
hour in conveying the country-seeking Manhattanese to 
this blissful oasis of comfort and retirement. 



•3 4 ^ 

SEASIDE RESORTS. 35 

STATEN ISLAND 

Is one of tlie most beaiitifal spots, with its sea-girt sliores, 
liills, splendid villas and cottages, to visit in tliis region. 
In natural beauties it strongly resembles tlie famed Isle of 
Wiglit, the favorite summer residence of the Queen of Eng- 
land. The island is only a few miles from the city, and 
reached every hour by steamers, its most distant landing 
requiring not much over 60 minutes. 

The Quarantine boats start from the foot of the Battery, 
commencing as early as sunrise, making several landings on 
the east side of the island. These all connect with a shore 
horse-railway, running down to the Narrows, where has 
been recently built perhaps the most admirable United 
States fort on the coast, protecting the lower and upper 
bay and its main channel. Very few finer prospects of 
land and ocean can be found in any region finer than 
from this high bluff. There are located along the banks 
some of the finest country residences of New-York citi- 
zens, the A spin walls foremost. Private and public board- 
ing-houses are to be found, with churches and good schools. 
At the middle (Quarantine) landing commences the Staten 
Island Railway, running through its whole distance of 12 
or 14 miles to the terminus opposite Perth- Amboy, with 
which it connects, by a new steamboat, in a few minutes. 
This road passes through the most cultivated farming 
region of the island, on the south side, keeping the mag- 
nificent Lower Bay in view nearly all the time, and distant 
Sandy Hook with its lights, and the bold hills of Mon- 
mc^Lith. Tottenville, at the end of the road, is a very 
beautiful, growing village, with fine fishing, oysters, and 
bathing. Fare, 25 cents each way. We know of no more 
j)leasant trip than this. To extend it a little, cross over 
to Amboy and take the railway back to the city, passing 



36 SEASIDE EESORTS. 

througli Woodbridge, Railway, Elizabeth, and Jersey City, 
in a couple of hours. From Tottenville, once or twice a 
day, steamboats also run to ]^ew-York, and at times con- 
nect with Keyport, N. J. Near Tottenville stands the old 
Billop House, well worth a visit. It is a high, prominent 
stone edifice, now very venerable. Its associations are 
very interesting. Col. Billop was the British militia officer 
of the island during the Revolution, and in this house, after 
the unfortunate battle on Long Island, Lord Howe met a 
deputation from Congress, to consult about the national 
quarrel. Franklin and Rutledge were among them. Here 
they met, did nothing but talk, and dismissed. The old 
mansion has remained unaltered ever since — a privilege 
which all old famed houses can not boast. 

The ferry-boats to the north shore of the island leave 
hourly, from the foot of Dey street, by steamers Huguenot, 
Thomas Hunt, and Pomona ; fare, 12 cents ; passage within 
the hour. The landings are, New-Brighton, Snug Harbor, 
Factoryville, Port Richmond, and Mariner's Harbor, each a 
mile or two from its neighbor. For a short sail over the 
fine bay and its unrivaled scenery, no trip is easier made 
or more charming, and thousands enjoy it. New-Brighton 
is a popular spot, with its fine houses and extensive hotels, 
and these are immensely patronized. The horse-railway 
is now being finished, connecting the Narrows with a point 
opposite Elizabeth Port, N. J., and following the winding 
shore of this lovely island the whole way. 

The Sailors' Snug Harbor is a pleasant walk from New- 
Brighton, and one of the noblest institutions of any land. 
There are some 300 old seamen, supported for life, if they 
wish, from the liberal legacy of a Scotchman who died years 
ago in New- York City. The buildings and.grounds, embrac- 
ing 40 acres, have been expensively improved. The farthest 




Arched Rocks, Lake Superior, 



SEASIDE RESOETS. 3 7 

landing on tlie nortli side of tlie island is at tlie Long Pier, 
not far from Elizabetli Port, and opposite Xewark Bar and 
its liglit-liouses. This point is readied hj tlie steamer 
Red Jacket twice a day on lier way to the Central Raihyay 
depot at Elizabeth Port, and this forms a connection be- 
tween the island and that point for passengers or yehicles. 
Mariner's Harbor is the last landing of the Xorth Shore 
steamers. Before the Long Pier is reached, there is the 
Willow Grroye Hotel, (German,) a popular pic-nic ground 
directly on the shore, with fine oysters and fishing. The 
long bridge of the Central Railway spanning Xewark Bay 
is directly in front yiew, and is one of the most perfect 
works of the kind to be found anywhere. 

The north side of the island can also be reached now by 
the Central Xew-Jersey Railway, from the foot of Liberty 
street. On the way to Elizabeth it stops at Bergen Point, 
and thence you can cross the Kills to Port Richmond. In 
the evening this new route may be used later than the 
boats. The Xewark and Elizabeth steamers also stop at 
Bergen Point. The steamboat for Ross-dlle and Totten- 
yille at the west end leayes the foot of Murray street twice 
daily. There are no steamboat landings on the south side, 
o^ing to its exposed condition on the lower bay. 

There are few rides and driyes so fine as those on the 
island for yariety and loyeline-ss of scenery. It is only 
about a dozen miles long and from 3 to 5 broad, diyided by 
a ridge of hills running east and west. On the north side 
the visitor enjoys the variegated views of the ever-moving 
panorama of the Kills, and its sails and steamers, with the 
far-distant spires and masts of Xew-York, and the nearer 
at Xewark and Elizabeth. The majestic hills and moun- 
tains of Xew-Jersey bound the far-ofi* view. Then turning his 
horses toward the south, and climbing the gentle ridge, in 



38 SEASIDE RESORTS. 

half an hour tlie tourist readies the summit level, and the 
view becomes at once entirely changed. Now, you have the 
land and water, the Lower Bay, Sandy Hook audits lights, 
the Highlands of Navesink, Coney and Long Islands, with 
their shin'mg white sand, the hills of Monmouth on the west, 
and following them, at last the eye takes in the distant 
magnificent Atlantic. We know no region like Staten 
Island which thus strikingly unites inland and water and 
sea ^-iews Vvi.thin its own borders, so easily accessible. 

CONEY ISLAND AND VICINITY 

Is distant from the Battery, Xew-York, 10 miles, by steam- 
boat during the summer season, and from Fulton Ferry, 
Brooklyn, about the same distance, by street-cars to Green- 
wood Cemetery, 4 miles, and thence by '' dummy" train to 
Coney Island, 6 miles, j^assing through Bath and Xew- 
LTtrecht. Also by street-cars from Fulton Ferry, xia Prospect 
Park and Coney Island Plank-Road. The island is formed by 
the Atlantic Ocean on the south and east and Coney Island 
Creek on the north, which runs from Gravesend Bay, about 
2 miles above Fort Hamilton, in Xew-York Harbor, to 
Rockaway Inlet, to the east, and is 5 miles in length. The 
island is about 44- miles long by about one half wide in its 
extreme width. Sandy Hook is a little south of west, 10 
miles distant. Sheep's Head Bay is about 2 miles to 
the eastward. Coney Island is noted for the '"' best beach 
on the Atlantic coast," and its proximity to Xew-York 
makes it a popular place during the summer months. 
There is an unbroken view of the ocean. There is but 
one hotel of any pretensions, but several smaller ones, 
where clam and fish dinners are served, and good bathing 
pri\i.leges can be enjoyed near all of them. 

Felter's Hotel is situated on the eastern end of the 



3C<f 

SEASIDE RESOKTS. 39 

island, 3 miles from tlie l)oat-landing, and close by tlio 
dejDots of both railway lines. It is near tbe beach, and has 
an excellent garden and 3 acres of play-ground attached. 
Also bowling-alleys, billiard-rooms, and stabling for 100 
horses. The house contains 80 rooms, furnished in first- 
class style, and has large parlors and reception and dining- 
rooms, and claims a first-class table among its attractions. 
The view from the verandas surrounding the house is a 
splendid one, and takes in New- York Bay, Staten Island, 
and the Atlantic Ocean to the front, and the environs of 
Brooklyn to the rear. Bass and blue-fish are numerous in 
the Bay, and also in the creek which helps to form the 
island, where weak-fish and soft-shell crabs are also found 
in plenty. The drives from the island are mostly over 
plank-roads, while that on the beach, for 3 miles, is ex- 
cellent. Fort Hamilton is 5 miles distant ; Sheep's Head 
Bay, 4 miles ; Flatbush, 5 miles ; Prospect Park, Brook- 
lyn, 6 miles. The house is open from May 1st to the last 
of October, 1868. Price, per day, $3.50 ; per week, §21. 
Samuel W. Felter, proprietor. 

Pa^T[LIOX Hotel, west end of Coney Island, 9^- miles from 
Fulton Ferry, and about 10 miles from the Battery. By 
O'Xeill, proprietor. Principally used as a restaurant. 

PoiXT Comfort House. — By John McPherson. Near 
the above, and used for same purposes. 

TivoLi House. — Situated about 2 miles from the steam- 
boat landing, and at the terminus of the dummy rail- 
way. Used principally as a restaurant, on the European 
plan. Benjamin William Hook, proprietor. Open from 
May 25th until September 10th. 

Sea-View House, — By John McPherson. Same pur- 
poses as '' Tivoli House." 

Wyckoff House. — By George E. Green. Contains 40 



40 SEASIDE EESOKTS. 

rooms, and is at the terminus of the Coney Island Street 
Railway. Used for boarders, and open the year round. 

GtREEn's Hotel. — Adjoining Wyckoff House. By 
George E. Green. Restaurant, etc. 

CONEY ISLAND PLANK-EOAD. 

Windsor Terrace is on the Coney Island Plank-Road, 
31- miles from Fulton Ferry, and 6 from Coney Island. It 
is opposite the Xew Prospect Park, in Brookhii, and is in 
a beautiful situation, commanding an extensive view of 
the park, skating-pond, and the Kings county parade- 
ground. There is a look-out in front, on Prospect Hill, 
250 feet high, from which a good view of Xew-York, 
Brooklyn, New-York Harbor, and the Atlantic Ocean, etc., 
can be had. The house contains 18 rooms, is entirely 
new, and it is intended to make it a first-class i)lace. Wil- 
liam Ward Hopkins, proprietor. 

TuNisox's Hotel. — Coney Island Plank-Road, 5 miles 
from Fulton Ferry and 4 from Coney Island. By M. 
C. Tunison. Family house, for the pleasure and conve- 
nience of riding parties. 

Post's Hotel. — Coney Island Plank-Road, 74- miles 
from Fulton Ferry, and 24- from Coney Island. Hicks 
Post, proprietor. Same purpose as above. 

Coxroy's Hotel. — Coney Island Plank-Road, 84 miles 
from Fulton Ferry, and 1| from Coney Island. By J. W. 
Conroy. Same as above. 

CAPE MAY. 

Few among the standard and recognized places of sum- 
mer resort enjoy a wider celebrity than Cape May, and 
of late years, since railway communication has made it 
more accessible, its list of visitors has largely increased. 



57/ 

SEASIDE EESOETS. 41 

It is tlie favorite resort of PMladelpliians, and even tlie 
growing popularity of its new rival, Atlantic City, has af- 
fected it but slightly. The easiest way to reach it from 
New York is by railway to Camden, opposite Philadelphia, 
and thence by a four hours' railway ride, passing through 
Vineland, and a number of other towns, to Cape May. 
The route is not particularly interesting, the southern 
part of New-Jersey being flat and tame, as regards scenery ; 
but the attractions awaiting the visitor at the end of his 
journey are quite enough to compensate for the tedium of 
the route. 

Cape May is at the extreme southern point of New- 
Jersey, where the Delaware Bay enters into the sea. The 
little insulated bit of land on which all the hotels stand, 
is known as Cape Island, and occupies an area of about 250 
acres. The village has a permanent population of about 
1200 souls ; but in the summer season, the numerous visi- 
tors to the place swell the number of Cape May denizens to 
thousands. It is then a gay and brilliant place. Over a 
dozen hotels are crowded with health-seeking myriads from 
New- York and Philadelphia, and especially from Baltimore 
and Washington. In the more prosperous days of the 
South, before the war. Cape May was the favorite resort of 
Southerners, many coming from as far as New-Orleans, Cape 
May being the nearest place of sea-side resort for them. At 
present, they do not come in such large numbers ; but as 
times improve, it is expected that they will return to their 
old haunts. In the West, Cape May is well known, Saint 
Louis, Cincinnati, and Pittsburg being all represented in 
her huge hotels. 

The season at this admired place of resort usually be- 
gins about the first of June — that is, the hotels open then ; 
but the season is not at its height till the first of July, or 



42 SEASIDE EESOETS. 

tliereabouts. Tlie usual recreations of a sea-side resort can 
be found here to perfection. Tlie beach, over 5 miles 
long, is very hard and compact, and offers an unsurpassed 
course for driving. Bathing is, of course, the feature of 
the day, and is attended with all its usual health-giving 
and mirth-producing concomitants. In the evening, strolls 
along the beach or on the hotel piazzas, offer attractions 
to those who do not care to join the groups of gay dancers 
in the parlors. Occasionally concerts of more than ave- 
rage merit are given by vocalists from the metroiDolis. 

On leaving the cars, at the station, the traveler can 
either walk to the hotels or enter the omnibuses, which 
convey passengers to them without charge. The distance 
from the railway depot is but trifling. 

There are some fifteen or sixteen hotels at Cape May, 
though two of them of wide celebrity in their day — the 
Mount Vernon and the Mansion — have been destroyed by 
fire. The leading hotel at Ca^De May is undoubtedly 
" Congress Hall," kept by Mr. Cake, of the Wads worth 
House in New-York. It is an immense structure, capable 
of accommodating 1000 guests, and noted for the excel- 
lence of its management and the variety of its table. 
The price of board at this estabhshment is $4 a day, or 
$25 a week. 

Another first-class house is the Columbia, which has ac- 
commodations for 700 guests. Of a similar grade is the 
United States Hotel, where 450 tomists can find all they 
need in the way of food and lodging. Other hotels are : 

Delaware House, accommodating . . 300 persons. 

Atlantic Hotel, " . . 400 " 

Centre House, " . . 400 " 

Washington Hotel, " . .200 " 

Tremont " " . . 150 " 



373 

SEASIDE RESORTS. 43 



National Hotel, accoTnniodatiiig 


. 250 persons, 


City 


u 


200 


Sherman House, 


u 


. 250 " 


American Hotel, 


ii 


. 150 


Merchants' Hotel, 


(; 


. 150 



Stin anotlier liotel will be opened tliis summer, (1868.) 
It lias a veranda 20 feet wide, and will probably be called 
tlie West-Jersey Hotel. 

The Cape May hotels are built almost on the beach it- 
self, and, of course, in full view of the ocean. The present 
prospects of the place are most flattering, and this favorite 
old watering-place seems determined that none of its 
younger rivals shall surpass it. 

EOCKAWAY BEACH, LOITG ISLAND. 

We remember when Rockaway Beach, a dozen years 
ago, at the old Pavilion, about 6 miles east of the present 
Sea View, was the most fashionable resort in the immedi- 
ate vicinity of New- York. That location is now an Irish 
settlement, and the beach has been spoiled, they say, by a 
sand-bar. 

The Beach has lost much of its distinction now, but still 
affords a pleasant sea-side resort for city-tied and tired 
people. The Bay View House is in a very fine position, 
facing Jamaica Bay. It is built upon made land entirely. 
Less than a year ago the high tide covered the present 
site of the hotel with a depth of about five feet. The 
terms at the Bay View were, last season, $4 per day, and 
$17.50 by the week. The terms across the bay at the Sea 
View, where is the surf, are $3 per day, and $15 to $18 
by the week. The house is lighted by gas manufactured 
on the premises. Lessee and landlord, Mr. A. D. Failing. 
Further information can be had from the Secretary and 
Treasurer of the company owning the dummy railway 



44 SEASIDE EESOETS 

and the liotel, Mr. Henry Jolinson, of 36 Pine street. 
Tliere are several otlier hotels here, also several private 
boarding-houses. The best route to Eockaway., if one be 
burdened with baggage, is by the Long Island Railway 
to Jamaica, 12 miles, thence by stage 8 miles over an ex- 
cellent road to the beach. During the summer season a 
steamboat plies between Xew-York and Rockaway. There 
is also a railway between Jamaica and Rockaway. An- 
other route, pleasanter to the baggageless, is by city cars, 
8 or 9 miles, from the Brooklyn ferries, 3^ of which is 
through a pleasant country by steam, occupying some- 
thing less than 15 minutes. The time is about 50 minutes 
on the street-cars to East ZSTew-York. The fare on the 
dummy is 15 cents, and on the boat crossing to the Sea- 
View Hjouse, 30 cents. The ride across Jamaica Bay in 
the boat is about 6 miles in high tide and about 8 in low, 
as the route must be changed when the water is low. 

There is not much to see at Rockaway ; but " not much" 
is more than " two trees and a brook," of which many of 
the Long Island toicns are said to be composed. Rock Hall, 
built by Dr. Martin, is a fine old mansion, and contains 
some valiiable pictures. In the burial-ground of the 
Methodist church, built 1790, is the grave and monument 
of the victims of the wrecks of the Bristol and Mexico, 
which were lost November 21st, 1826, and January 2d, 
1837. 

FIEE ISLAI^D, LONG ISLAND. 

Fire Island is a long, narrow strip of beach, j utting out 
into the ocean from the Long Island shore. It is about 
25 miles from New- York, and is reached by the Long 
Island Railway, which takes passengers, by stage, within 
3 miles of the bay, and by the Southside Railway, from 



SEASIDE EESOETS. 45 

Hunter's Point. On leaving tlie railway, passengers take 
tlie steamboat and cross tlie bay over a beautiful sheet of 
water about 8 miles wide. There are only 2 hotels on the 
island. One is kept by D. S. S. Sammis, and will accom- 
modate about 200 boarders. The rooms are small, but 
made pleasant by a constant breeze from the sea. The 
price is about §20 per week. 

The other hotel is a small house called Dominie's Hotel, 
and will accommodate but a small number. The beach is 
perfectly arid and desolate. It is about f of a mile mde. 
From Sammis's Hotel a plank Walk extends to the water, 
where there is to be found surf-bathing as fine as any in 
the country. There is good blue-fishing in the bay, which 
is called the Gfreat South Bay. Persons frequently go out 
12 or 15 miles and catch the largest species of fish. Within 
a few rods of Sammis's Hotel is a light-house, which is 
one of the finest structures of the kind on the coast. Op- 
posite Fire Island, on the Long Island shore, there are 
boarding-houses where the advantage of drives is obtained. 



•^-^-9- 



THE MASSACHUSETTS COAST. 

FEOM BOSTON TO PORTLAND 

SwAMPSCOTT has, Avithin the last eight years, become 
the most popular watering-place on the New-England 
coast for Bostonians, It is to Boston what Long Branch is 
to New- York, and Cape May or Atlantic City to Philadel- 
phia. Fashionable Boston moves to Swampscott in July, 
Whole families are transported thither in their carriages 



46 _ SEASIDE EESOETS. 

or by rail, and a grand establislinient of dogs, liorses, do- 
mestics, and children is moved in a few liours from Beacon 
r^treet to tlieir " cottage by tlie sea." 

Here tlie same faces are met ttMcIi liave been seen daily 
for nine months on 'Change, and the yonng ladies yrho 
have been, perchance, your partners in the T\inter's Ger- 
mans, flash by you on the road, the dashing charioteers of 
pony-chaises. 

When the traveler examines this x^lace, he will see little 
which can account for its extraordinary popularity. There 
are few beaches along the coast which are not larger and 
m.ore attractive than those of Swampscott. The walks 
and drives are not of remarkable beauty, nor are the 
streets sufficiently broad to make rapid riding safe or com- 
fortable. Nevertheless, these narrow streets are crowded 
with carriages and equestrians, and the beaches continu- 
ally ornamented by groups of ladies intent on exercise or 
bathing. The scene is one of m.ost lively animation, and 
all visitors are impressed with the fact that Swampscott is 
beloved by the Bostonian. 

The secret of this so evident popularity is the nearness 
of the village to Boston and its accessibility at almost any 
hour of the twenty-four. A ride of forty minutes brings 
the traveler to the neat depot, where omnibuses are in 
waiting to take him to cottage or hotel. Private carriages 
cover the roads and surrormd the station on the arrival of 
the afternoon trains. A drive of a mile and a half thi'ough 
Fisherman's Village and by Philip's Beach gives an op- 
portunity of obtaining an idea of the natural advantages 
of the place. And when the stranger is lodged at the 
Great or the Little Anawam, or at the Lincoln House, the 
ocean is spread before him, the heights of Cape Ann stand 
forth, and the white houses along the beach of Lynn, 



377 

SEASIDE EESOETS. 4:1 

while in front is Egg Kock, near to tlie land, but exposed 
to many a buffet from the in-rolling Atlantic. 

The coast of Swampscott and vicinity is exceedingly 
dangerous to the seaman. The beaches are short, the 
rocky bluffs high and long. A more unpleasant spot the 
Oceanidse could never find whereon to drive a ship w^hich 
they had determined to destroy. The surf, pushed onward 
by a " north-easter," rushes with tremendous force against 
the jagged cliffs, and would sweep to destruction the 
strongest vessel. 

The large hotels are ' three in number — the Anawams, 
Great and Little, and the Lincoln House. There are also in- 
numerable boarding-houses and several hotels of a smaller 
size. The village extends from the depot to the sea. It 
is a thriving settlement, adorned here and there with a 
church or a private residence erected by Bostonians. As 
the road winds downward to the ocean, it passes through 
Fisherman's Village, where numerous boat-houses stand, 
WT.th their names brightly painted upon them in a style 
which suggests Yarmouth in Old England. Further on 
are the beaches and boarding-houses. The road follows 
the shore with many a curve, now approaching the beach 
and now directed toward the woods, which here, as on all 
the coast of New-England, fringe the seaside. 

From the hills, covered with these green w^oods, a lovely 
scene is presented. The fleet of fishing-vessels at anchor 
in the harbor or marked against the eastern horizon, the 
distant steamers on their way, and passing yachts are al- 
ways visible in the daytime, and at night the surf and the 
moonlight make a most effective combination. 

The bathing is excellent, the water deepening not too 
rapidly, and being warmer than at Nahant or Rye. There 
is no undertow whatever. The fishing is proverbially 



48 SEASIDE RESORTS. 

fine, and tlie many yaclits wMcli grace tlie liarbor show 
tliat tlie facilities for sailing are appreciated "by tlie gen- 
tlemen who, for the summer months, make this their 
home. The town is fast increasing in valuation under the 
impetus of so many citv guests. Real estate has rapidly 
risen. Many a fair cottage is built, and each year the 
number grows, though he who builds a summer residence 
finds the luxury sufficiently exi>ensive to do credit to the 
claims of Swampscott as a watering-place of the highest 
fashion. 

Close to this village is Salem, the home of witchcraft 
and the East-India trade. A good road leads to the centre 
of the city from the Ocean House at Swampscott. By day 
it is almost depoxDulated, many of its most worthy citizens 
going to Boston for business purposes, and returning to 
dinner and domestic joys. It is an old city, but without 
that indescribable air of aristocratic age which surrounds 
Portsmouth. Its wealth has been chiefly accumulated in 
the East-India commerce direct from its own port. But 
now the business is wholly conducted in Boston, and Sa- 
lem's wharves are desolate. The modern Athens has at- 
tracted to herself capital and talent, and the towns of 
lesser growth around her can nevermore be centres of 
thri^ung trade. The Common is a source of pride. Hand- 
some houses surround the open square, which in sum- 
mer is deserving of much admiration. The nearness of 
the little city to the ocean makes its suburbs a popular 
resort for visitors. The drives in every direction are plea- 
sant, leading toward Lynn, Swampscott, and Xahant, 
crossing the river to Beverly, or penetrating into the inte- 
rior. In every direction the traveler can see something, 
when the sun is shining, of interest, and a week of rainy 
weather can be profitably devoted to the examination of 



31f 

SEASIDE EESOKTS. 49 

tlie toTTTL records, the reading of tlie local literature, and 
the study of the monstrous and eyer-memorahle history 
of the Salem witches. 

jSTahant was for many years a favorite resort for the 
elite of Xew-England. It has never recovered from the 
loss by fire of its principal hotel several years ago. Al- 
though the work of rebuilding was quick and energetic, 
the tide of travel was in the interval diverted, and has not 
returned in full force to the former channel. The beach 
is delightful, and far superior to that of Lynn or Swamps- 
cott. Xothing equaling it is found until we approach the 
Hamptons. The surf is magnificently high, and the beach 
long, broad, and hard. 

There is but one large hotel at Xahant. It has become 
a spot for cottages and a residence for families who desire 
more beach and less society than they would find at 
Swampscott. It is the abiding-place of Cambridge pro- 
fessors, of prominent litterateurs, and the professional men 
of Boston who, after the arduous labors of eight or nine 
months, are refreshed by the sea-air, by the study of the 
habits of the finny tribe, and by leading them captive with 
line and hook. 

A steamer rims regularly to Xahant through the sum- 
mer. Three quarters of an hour are agreeably passed in 
running down the bay and in obser^dng the forts and 
Hingham, where the boat touches. Much has been said 
and sung of the beauties of Boston Bay. The unfortunate 
sailor, coming on the coast in a driving snow-storm in 
January, may fail to perceive its attractions as he watches 
through freezing eyelids for the lights which point out 
home and safety ; but the traveler can not fail to appreci- 
ate them when the summer sea is calm beneath and the 
summer skv above him. 



50 SEASIDE EESOETS. 

Chelsea lies near Boston, on its outskirts. The advanc- 
ing growth of the city, which has absorbed Roxburv, may 
soon include the Chelsea beach as part and parcel of itself. 
But now it has a separate name and fame. Horse-cars run 
hourly to it, and the Eastern Railway takes the traveler 
thither by a ten minutes' ride. 

The beach is well known as extensive and beautiful, 
abounding in game and furnished with sundry hotels 
wherein the best of cheer awaiteth the guest. It is a popu- 
lar place with Bostonians, who drive to the shore, bathe, 
eat a game-supper, and return by moonlight. The marshes 
are visited through September by many birds, which not 
even the neighborhood of a large city can frighten 
away. 

For bathing in the fresh rollers of the Atlantic, Chelsea 
is unsurpassable, and sailing-boats are always in readiness 
for those who prefer to be rocked upon the waters to being 
tossed about within them. 

Hampton Beach is on the line of the Eastern Railway, 
45 miles from Boston. It is next to Rye, and the stranger 
can drive from the Atlantic or Ocean House at that water- 
ing-place directly to the Boar's Head, in Hampton. The 
beach was widely celebrated in earlier times, and the colo- 
nists of New-Hampshire often rode down to this part of the 
coast for a clam-bake, or the more solemn ceremonies of 
prayer-meeting. 

Hampton is not as crowded by the fashionable world as 
its neighbor. Rye, but the visitor has no less facilities for 
enjoyment. The hotels are excellent, the bathing and 
fishing superlatively fine, and the scenery better than from 
any other point of the Xew-Hampshire coast. From the . 
Isle of Shoals alone is a better xievr to be obtained. 
Boar's Head juts out into the sea for several miles, and is 



39/ 

SEASIDE EESOETS. 51 

always deliciously breezy tlirougliout tlie liottest August. 
Lovely roads lead to Rye, to Portsmouth, Exeter, Green- 
land, and Stratliam Hill, all well worth the careful inspec- 
tion of the tourist. 

Boarding-houses are numerous, and the accommodations 
so good that it is said no one fails to revisit Hampton who 
has ever remained there during a whole day. Hampton 
Falls and Xorth-Hampton are different villages behind the 
same long beach. Between them and the ocean lie wide 
marshes, over which trains rush almost hourly. The tra- 
veler is reminded of English scenery as he passes these 
old settlements with the gray marshes and distant sea be- 
yond the little white villages, which fill the route from 
Newburyport to Portsmouth. 

For one who has an inclination to see all that is most 
beautiful in Xew-England, no better route from the White 
Mountains could be suggested than that to Red Hill and 
Centre Harbor, on Lake Winnipiseogee — down the lake 
to Wolfboro and Alton Bay — ^by rail to Dover, and thence 
to Portsmouth and the neighboring beaches, thence across 
the Piscataqua into Maine. 

Three superb beaches lie upon the Maine coast — those 
of York, of Wells, and of Saco ; this last is better known 
as Old Orchard. 

The traveler can reach Cape Neddick by a short ride 
over the Portsmouth, Saco, and Portland Railway from 
Portsmouth. Or, if he prefer the better views and greater 
leisure of a slower passage, he can take the daily stage 
which leaves Boston at eleven in the morning. At Cape 
Neddick is York Beach and Bold Head Cliff, yearly visited 
by crowds of curious strangers. Agamenticus is but a 
mile distant, from whose imposing summit can be seen the 
harbors of Boston, Portsmouth, and Portland, the coast of 



52 SEASIDE EESOHTS- 

» 
Maine, ISTew-Hampsliire, and Massachusetts, and tlie peaks 
of tiie White Mountains. 

Continuing onward by stage or cars, the tourist is con- 
veyed to Wells, a place unfrequented by the gay fashiona- 
bles of New- York and Boston, but dear to the heart of 
every sportsman. 

This beach is 6 miles in length, and covered with crowds 
of snipe and curlew. Partridges and woodcock abound in 
the woods, and a large trout-stream, filled with these deli- 
cious fish, arising from the sea, crosses the beach. Follow- 
ing this stream as it winds into the deepening shades of the 
forest, many smaller brooklets are found, running back- 
into the country as far as North and South-Berwick. 

These localities are thoroughly explored by the gunners 
and fishermen who come each year from the large cities 
as regularly as the game they seek. 

Biddeford and Saco are the most flourishing of the 
smaller cities of Maine. Their business is chiefly of a 
manufacturing nature, and during the war large sums 
were invested therein by sagacious capitalists. On one 
side of the Saco Kiver is Saco, on the other Biddeford, and 
a few miles to the east is the beach. 

This, like Wells, is a favorite resort of the sportsman. 
The bathing and fishing are remarkably fine, and nume- 
rous picnics, camp-meetings, and similar entertainments are 
located each season upon the hard and gleaming sand 
which extends for miles along the shore. 

A wonderful curiosity of this neighborhood is Saco 
Pool, which should be seen by every traveler. The sea, 
by a small passage, runs up a quarter of a mile into the 
land, and fills a large, circular basin, near which stands a 
hotel. This deep basin is scooped from the solid rock, and 
is emptied and refilled as the rushing tide rises and falls 




Pulpit FaUs, Ithaca, N. Y. 



38^ 

SEASIDE EESOBTS. 53 

again. The singular pool excites mncli attention from tlie 
geologist. The poetic fancy might people it with marine 
deities or graceful sea-nymphs, who have made a quiet 
court-chamher apart from the surging waters of the outer 
ocean. Bat never by the noonday sun or the pale moon- 
light have their forms been seen. Nevertheless, this theo- 
ry is assuredly as plausible as any of the many which have 
been framed to account for this work of nature, so strange 
and beautiful. 

CUSHING'S ISLAKD, PORTLAND HARBOR. 

In the harbor of Portland, Maine, about 3 miles from 
the city, is situated a lovely little island of 250 acres, 
known as Cushing's Island. It commands as fine a view 
of Neptune's domains as any spot on this continent. Route 
from New- York, most direct by Portland steamers Diri- 
go and Chesapeake, from Pier 38, East River, Wednesdays 
and Saturdays, at 4 P.M. On this island, standing high 
above the level of the sea, is a first-class hotel called the 
Ottawa House, under the management of George Allen, 
Esq., formerly of the Marlboro Hotel, of Boston. Canadian 
guests usually have the majority at this resort. Here 
fasliion succumbs to comfort, and the guests, inspired by 
the example and efforts of their worthy host, do their 
utmost to make each other happy. About 200 yards from 
the hotel, on one side of the island, is a beautiful beach 
for bathing, with bathing-houses, dresses, etc., for the ac- 
commodation of the guests, while on the other side of the 
island is equally as fine a beach, where the visitors bathe. 
Old Izaak Walton, moreover, has his devotees, who gratify 
their tastes by piscatorial raids, either in deep-sea fishing 
some 10 miles out on the briny deep, or from the rocks in 
the immediate neighborhood of the house, where fish, suf- 



54 SEASIDE EESOETS. 

ficient in quantity and quality to feed 200 people, can be 
caught in a few hours by two or three amateurs. Terp- 
sichore also has her willing votaries, and nightly in the 
parlors Young America trips the light fantastic toe with 
Canada's fair daughters. Charades, dramatic performan- 
ces, etc., each claim their share of the patronage, and thus 
the time is pleasantly employed, while for those who turn 
away from the enjoyments of the parlor there are fine 
bowlinof-allevs and a billiard-room. 



THE MAIXE COAST. 



CAPE ELIZABETH AND POETLAND. 

Cape Elizabeth is 2 miles distant from Portland, the 
commercial capital of Maine, and shares with it the attrac- 
tions located in or near the city. Portland harbor is one 
of the best on the Atlantic coast, the anchorage being pro- 
tected on every side by land, while the water is deep, and 
communication with the ocean direct and convenient. It 
is defended by Forts Preble, Scammell, and Gorges, and 
dotted over with lovely islands. These islands afford most 
delightful excursions, as is the case all along this charmins: 
coast, and are among the greatest attractions of the vi- 
cinity. On the highest point of the peninsula, upon which 
the city stands, is an observatory, 70 feet high, command- 
ing a fine view of the city, harbor, islands in the bay, and, 
on a clear day, the misty summits of the White Moim- 
tains. The great fire of July 4th, 1S66, has left traces in 
Portland which are not yet repaired. 

At the Cape there is a large hotel called Cape Cottage, 



3^ ^ 

SEASIDE EESOETS. 55 

recently renovated. The place is a popular one, and tlie 
^dsitor will hardly need fear the absence of good society. 

One may go by the Outside Line of steamers- from Pier 
38, East River, at 4 P.M., Wednesdays and Saturdays ; fare, 
$6, state-room and meals extra. 

BELFAST AND CAMDEN. 

Camden, on the west shore of Penobscot Bay, just a lit- 
tle way in from the Fox Islands, is a much-frequented re- 
sort. Hotel, the Atlantic ; Mr. Johnson, proprietor. 

Belfast and Castine are some 30 miles below Bangor, 
where the Penobscot enters the bay which takes its name. 
Belfast on the west, and Castine on the east shore, are 9 
miles apart. Both are small ship-building and fishing 
to^yns. The reader of Longfellow's Kautnagli will be in- 
terested to see the localities of Castine involved in that in- 
teresting poem. Baron Castine, an old Frenchman, lived 
here, and gave name to the place, at some time during the 
eighteenth century ; and his old house, with its quaint, worn 
steps, is one of the curiosities of the neighborhood. The 
fort in the noble harbor, built during the Revolution by 
the English, is another place generally visited. During a 
certain part of the summer season there are often Metho- 
dist camp-meetings held hereabout. 

The cliief source of enjoyment, however, is in the de- 
lightful sailing, fishing, and hunting. There are so many 
islands in the bay, and the water is so delightfully smooth 
and unrufiied, that there are always multitudes of chow- 
der parties, fishing parties, picnickers, etc., profiting by 
their recreating powers. Inland, there is fine shooting 
available ; and furthermore, at this point, we are on the 
direct route for Moosehead Lake and the Maine Forest, 
(see article so entitled,) by way of Bangor. 



56 SEASIDE EESORTS. 

The Penobscot, tlie largest and most beautiful of tlie 
rivers of Maine, is formed by two branches, the east and 
tlie west, whicli unite near the centre of the State, and 
flow in a general south-west course to Bangor, 60 miles 
from the sea, and at the head of navigation. Large ves- 
sels can ascend to Bangor, and small steamboats navigate 
the river vet above. At Bangor, the tide rises to the great 
height of 17 feet, an elevation which is supposed to be 
produced hj the wedge-shaped form of the bay and hj the 
current from the Gulf-Stream. The length of the Penob- 
scot, from the junction of the east and the west branches, 
is 135 miles ; or, measuring from the source of the west 
branch, it is 300 miles; though, as far as the tourist is 
concerned, it is only 60 miles — being that portion between 
Bangor and the ocean. This part, then, the Penobscot 
proper, ranks, in its pictorial attractions, among the finest 
river scenery of the United States. In all its course there 
are continual points of great beauty, and very often the 
shore rises in striking and even grand lines and propor- 
tions. 

MOUNT DESERT ISLAND. 
Mount Desert Island is an out-of-the-way nook of beauty in 
Frenchman's Bay, east of the mouth of the Penobscot River. 
It is 40 miles from Bangor, and may be reached from Bos- 
ton by steamer to Bucksport, on the Penobscot, fare, §1, 
(from Portland, §2.50 or $3,) and thence by stage, lia Ells- 
worth, 40 miles, or from Castine, on Penobscot Bay, hard 
by. If the visitor here can not sketch the bold, rocky 
cliflfs, (for this is a choice resort of the landscape painters,) 
he can beguile the fish to his heart's content. And, more- 
over, there is hardly a limit to the places and wonders that 
are to be seen. The island itself, 60,000 acres in extent, 
boasts Green Peak, 1800 feet high, the loftiest land on the 



38^7 

SEASIDE RESOETS. 57 

Atlantic coast witliin our borders. Tlie view from its 
summit, of course, can not fail to impress cleeplv everv one 
wlio visits tlie island. The vigorous and varied rock-l3onnd 
coast of XeTV-England can be nowhere seen to greater ad- 
vantage. The mountain most nearly overhangs Bar Har- 
bor, where also are the Spouting Horn, a place where the 
sea (as at Newport) casts up its foamy waves to a great 
height ; and Schooner Head, such a phantom ship as may 
be seen, or used to be, on the most northern portion of this 
coast, at Gaspe. (See sketch of Oxtario a>^d Saixt Law- 
EE2sCE, ad Jlnem.) At the other (south-west) harbor is the 
Sea Wall, where old Neptune has heaped up the stones of 
the shore until there is now a huge wall which, at the 
proper tide, resounds with the breaking of the billows 
against it. Pulpit Rock is far out on the crags, and not 
approachable by the weak-nerved ; and when you reach it, 
you let yourself down into a pulpit of stone, over the front 
of which you look down a sheer precipice of 50 or 60 feet 
into the angry billows, and feel the jar of their assaults 
upon the base of the cliff, or think you do, which is just 
as well, so far as the sensation is concerned. From the pul- 
pit — indeed, from almost any point on the eastern side of 
the island — we see the breakers dashing over Mingo Rock, 
a mile or two out, and exposed on all sides to the long 
wash of waves. The foam-crested billows climb its sides 
like great white leviathans, and finding they can not quite 
reach the summit, spout a cloud of spray over it, and slide 
back again into the dark abyss. Ever returning to the 
charge, baffled but not disheartened, they appear in new 
forms of beauty continually. Sitting on the highest point 
of the island, one may see almost every rod of it, and the 
7 smaller islands that encircle it. The near view is unique 
and pleasant. Gray rocks constitute full half the surface, 



58 SEASIDE EESORTS. 

and you can go all over tlie island, witli a little care, and 
not step on the soil. In tlie dells, where a rood or two of 
soil is kept moist by the stone basin in which it rests, beds 
of iris bend in violet waves before the gale, and seem as 
if they would be blue or purple like the sea if they were 
large enough. The moss and grass among the rocks is of 
more lively hues than are common on the main land at 
this season. Nor is other vegetation lacking. Here, for 
example, is a bunch of yellow clover, very delicate and 
beautiful, that continentals know nothing about, except 
by the botany books ; and there are quantities of splendid 
sea-mosses for whomsoever has the industry and patience 
to prepare them for preservation. For animated nature, 
there is a flock of sheep of spotless whiteness, such as are 
never seen on the main land, except in pastures ; and half 
a- dozen cows, who have a habit of going to the eastern 
cliffs, lying down together, and looking out earnestly over 
the sea. Doubtless they are of foreign breed, and have 
instinctive yearnings for fatherland. Also, let us not for- 
get the one black horse, who can draw a cart, run the 
treadmill, and in trotting is without a rival. If there are 
hogs on the island, they avoid observation. Occasionally 
one comes from the main land, disguised in fashionable 
toggery ; but the air does not agree mth them, and they 
eat one dinner and leave. As long ago as 1647, Richard 
Cutts and John Cutting sent a sharp remonstrance to the 
General Court against the practices of one John Reynolds, 
who, " contrary to an order of court, which sayeth, ' Xo 
woman shall live on the Isles of Shoals,' hath not only 
brought his wife hither, with an intention to live here and 
abide ; but also hath brought upon Hog Island a great 
stock of goats and swine, which, by destroying much fish, 
do great damage to your petitioners and others, and also 



SEASIDE EESOETS. 59 

spoil tlie spring of water upon tlie island, rendering it un- 
fit for any manner of use, wliicli affords tlie only relief and 
supply to all the rest of the islands ; your petitioners 
therefore pray that the act of court maybe put in execu- 
tion for the removal of all women from inhabiting here, 
and that said Eeynolds may be ordered to remove his 
goats and swine from the island without delay/' The 
General Court ordered Reynolds to remove his goats and 
swine within thirty days ; but " as to the removal of the 
wife, it is thought fit by the court that, if no further com- 
j)laint come against her, she may enjoy the company of 
her husband.'* Women have been tolerated here ever 
since ; more than tolerated, to speak truly ; and when 
the daily steamer approaches, the first effort is to 
count through the telescope the number of women on 
board. 

These islands were once agitated by revolution. Possi- 
bly, it was the first organized rebellion in North- America, 
though it never got beyond organization. It originated 
with the clergy. A quarrel between Rev. Mr. Gibson and 
Rev. Mr. Larkham, in 1642, which was wholly personal at 
first, led to a revolt of the islanders against the govern- 
ment of Massachusetts, which then claimed and held the 
islands. The Rev. Gibson, by whom the revolt was insti- 
gated, before it came to open war, made his own submis- 
sion, and persuaded the islanders to renew their allegiance, 
and there was a general amnesty by tacit consent. Gib- 
son and Larkham are not the only pastors of note and in- 
fluence in the history of these islands. Twenty years 
after them flourished the Rev. John Brock, who had such 
power in prayer as to restore children apparently dead, 
and to raise sunken boats from the ocean. The details of 
his achievements are preserved in authentic records. It 



60 SEASIDE EESORTS. 

does not appear, however, that lie exercised liis faitli upon 
dead adults, or any craft larger than a fishing-smack. 

Hotels. — At Bar Harbor, Roberts's Hotel; at South- 
west Harbor, Clark's and Freeman's. Terms low. Season, 
from June to November. 

EASTPOB.T. 

The uttermost point of the Atlantic coast under protec- 
tion of the Stars and Stripes is Eastport, Maine — a place 
worthy of visit, if only for that reason. It is, however, 
interesting for its own natural attractions ; for more charm- 
ing scenes, on land and on sea, than are here, can rarely 
be found. The Passamaquoddy Bay extends inland some 
15 miles, and is, perhaps, 10 miles in breadth. Its shores 
are wonderfully irregular and picturesque, and yie many 
islands which stud its deep waters help much in the com- 
position of pictures to be enjoyed and remembered. Ca- 
lais stands at the head of na^dgation, on the Saint Croix 
Eiver. The lumber trade is large, and ship-building is 
extensively carried on. It is connected mtli Saint Ste- 
phen's, in New-Brunswick, by four bridges. The Calais 
and Baring Railway connects the town mth Milltown and 
Baring. From Baring the Lewey's Island Railway ex- 
tends 17 miles to Princeton. Population, 6000. 

Eastport is 234 miles north-east of Portland, and is 
reached thence and from Boston by regular steamboat 
communication to and from Saint John's, N. B. Steam- 
boats run also to Calais and places en route, 30 miles above 
at the head of navigation, on the Saint Croix River. The 
town is charmingly built on Moose Island, which embraces 
2000 acres, and is connected to the mainland of Perry by 
a br^ge ; and by ferries with Pembroke, Lubec, and the 
adjoining British islands. Fort Sullivan is its shield and 
buckler against any possible foes from without. 



SEASIDE HEsoirrs. 61 

THE NEff-IIAMPSIIIRE COAST. 



POKTSMOUTH-ISLE OF SHOALS-EYE. 

PouTSMOurn, N. II., is one of the most beautiful of 
NewEn^hmd cities. It is easily accessible to the tourist, 
lying in the direct line of the travel to the White Moun- 
tains, to Portland, Montreal, or the Isle of Shoals. It is 
on the Eastern Uaihvay, and can be reacheil by a ride of 
two hours and a half from lithcr Portland or IJoston. 
Travelers from Winnii)isiogee, the famous lake of Xew- 
Ilampshire. can, by takinof cars at Concord or at Dovt-r, be 
carried by a short journey to this city. Like Newbury- 
l)ort and Salem, it has seen its most lively days. Unless 
some unexpected chancre in the course of trade should 
occur, it will never again be the bustling town of 1812. 
But, unlike these sister cities of the New-England Coast, 
it does not lament the loss of commerce and bewail the 
past opportunities which once made it a rival of Boston. A 
refreshing calm has settled uiK)n the inhabitants, who 
lead a life of unaspiring tranquillity, whicb would have 
channed the soid of Irving had he seen it, as it did that 
of Hawthorne, who came, and saw, and was enraptured. 
The absence of the rush and contention which character- 
ize towns of a smaller size but of a different history, is a 
great attraction to the traveler. The evidences of unosten- 
tatious wealth, the ancient buildings, the high houses, 
large gardens, and shaded streets, give constant gratifica- 
tion to the Wsitor who is transported from the clatter and 
dust of travel into an atmosphere of repose. In the sub- 
urbs he can not fail to find many a spot by nature fitted 

" For poet's dream or summer idyll ;" 



.62 SEASIDE EESOETS. 

and never yet came liitlier a traveler who did not confess 
tliat^ liOTvever far lie may have wandered on this continent 
or beyond the seas, he has found no lovelier scenes. 

The Xavy-Tard presents an attractive feature to the 
stranger. It is upon the Maine side of the Piscataqua, 
whose broad stream rolls downward to the Atlantic be- 
tween fair country-seats and rich meadows, till it sweeps 
against the venerable wharves of the city. The number 
of the workmen has been reduced to a " peace basis," and 
the scene is by no means as animated as during the four 
years of the late war. The purchase by the Government 
of Seavey's Island adds considerably to the area of the 
yard. Here new houses for the officers will soon be erect- 
ed, and cool and pleasant summer quarters established. 

A steamer runs every hour to and from the yard, land- 
ing her passengers at the foot of Daniel Street in Ports- 
mouth. It is a capacious vessel, and there is always room 
for a party of sight-seers. 

In Portsmouth are various objects of peculiar interest. 
Among them are the antique church of St. John, the 
Athenaeum, the Custom-House, and the residence of Gov- 
ernor Langdon, described in a recent Atlantic by Haw- 
thorne. Near the Xavy-Tard is the tomb of Sir William 
Pepperell, well known in the history of the State as a suc- 
cessful merchant and popular ruler of the pro^-ince. Sev- 
eral elegant country-seats are around the mansion which 
once was his, and which now is tenanted by the sole relic 
of the Sparhawk family. On this side of the river is Fort 
Macleary, a century old, now remodeled and strengthened. 
A short ride takes the traveler from Portsmouth to 
Newcastle, crossing, by several bridges, branches of the 
Piscataqua, and furnishing beautiful views of the city and 
of Little Harbor. Fort Constitution stands at the en- 



3^2> 

SEASIDE EESOETS. 63 

trance of the lower harbor, and terminates, with its high 
walls, this road. These walls are of granite, and upon 
them work is still progressing. 

There are various hotels in Portsmouth, of which the 
oldest and perhaps the best known is the Rockingham 
House. This was once the private home of one of New- 
Hampshire's early governors. It is noticed by Holmes, 
in his Elsie Venner, as a famous hostelry of olden time. 
The Philbrick House, conducted by the veteran of Rye 
Beach, the City Hotel, and the Franklin, are establish- 
ments where the stranger can find comfort at a reasonable 
price. 

The Isle of Shoals is 11 miles from the city. A steam- 
er runs daily from Railway Wharf, connecting with the 
morning trains from Boston, Portland, Concord, Dover, 
and Great Falls. The voyage is but an hour in length, 
and the scenery, as the boat passes down the river through 
the Narrows, stemming bravely the rushing tide, or borne 
surfing upon it, is most delightful. Sliding by Fort Con- 
stitution and the Whale's Back Light-House, the steamer 
is soon upon the wide Atlantic. Directly in front is the 
dim outline of the islands, while behind stretches the 
white line of the coast. In the distance rise the hills of 
New-Hampshire and the blue sides of Agamenticus, the 
high mountain of York. As the boat approaches the Ap- 
pledore Island, the hotel unfolds its size and proportions. 
Landing by row-boats, the traveler ascends, by an easy 
path, to the portico, where an expectant crowd is assem- 
bled. 

The *'Appledore" is conducted by Oscar and Cedric 
Laighton, whose father is well remembered as the former 
proprietor. His grave is now one of the interesting and 
noteworthy spots upon the rocky surface of the island. 



64 SEASIDE RESORTS. 

Here also are buried tlie unfortunate crew of a Spanisli 
vessel driven upon tlie cliffs on a winter's niglit. This 
incident has been made the subject of an effective poem 
by Longfellow. 

The steamboat reaches the Appledore at 1 o'clock eacb 
day, and starts upon its homeward trip at 3 p.m. Visitors 
to the other islands of the group are carried across in 
small boats. The distance is short to Gosport, where is a 
small village of some 30 houses, a church, and a school- 
house. The population are hardy fishermen, among 
whom can still be traced the Portuguese features of the 
original colonizers from the fleet of John Smith, by whom 
these islands were discovered. A disaster fell upon them 
a year ago, in the shape of fire. Half their little settle- 
ment was consumed in a single night ; and this calamity, 
to so hard-working a people, excited much sympathy 
throughout ISTew-England. Assistance was given them, 
and they are now recovering from their losses. 

Near by is White Island, where a revolving light casts 
a crimson glow over a sea which sleeps through the sum- 
mer months, but which rises in the winter storms with 
mighty strength. The other islands are known by the 
euphonious names of Smutty-Nose and Hog. They are 
visited only by sportsmen, and are a refuge for innume- 
rable sea-fowl. 

Amid this group, the summer weeks go by with many 
delights. Fishing, shooting, sailing, and bathing are 
daily to be obtained ; and not the least attraction is the 
constant charm of the sea, the breezes, and the fair per- 
spective. 

The beaches of Rye are becoming each year more popu- 
lar. They are reached by the Eastern Railway at the 
stations of Hampton, Greenland, or Portsmouth. From 



:5 7^ 



SEASIDE EESORTS. 65 

Greenland and Hampton a stage runs regularly on the 
arrival of the trains from Boston or Portland. From 
Portsmouth, the distance is 7 miles over most excellent 
roads. 

The largest hotel is the Ocean House, of which Job 
Jenness & Son are proprietors. Near this are the Wash- 
ington and Surf Houses, and numerous cottages for board- 
ers. At the other end of the beach is the Atlantic House, 
formerly known as Philbrick's, and the new and capa- 
cious Farragut House, which has experienced two most 
successful seasons. Scattered along the roadside are plea- 
sant boarding-houses, crowded during the heat of July 
and August. 

All these hotels are of excellent character and well pat- 
ronized. The fields and lawns are filled with croquet- 
players, and the long, wide beach with bathers, sports- 
men, and carriages. The scene is always lively by day, 
and at night, hops, germans, and private theatricals give 
to the guest unfailing excitement and variety. 

The drives through the surrounding country are invit- 
ing, and the neighboring villages of Hampton, Greenland, 
and Exeter are thoroughly explored each season by gay 
parties from the hotels of Rye. 

NEW-BEDFORD AND MARTHA'S VINEYARD. 

Although in the city of New-Bedford there are no 
hotels devoted exclusively ^to the entertainment of 
summer tourists, and no places of great historical 
interest or natural curiosity, yet perhaps there is no 
place along the whole coast of New-England better 
fitted by nature for the quiet enjoyment of the warm 
season. This city is situated on the side of a long 
hill, sloping gradually to the Acushnet River, and is 



66 SEASIDE EESOETS. 

thus by position one of tlie cleanliest, and consequently 
healtMest, localities in New-England. It is in a direct line 
south of Boston, about 50 miles distant, and may be 
reached from New- York by the way of Boston, or more 
easily by taking the shore line through Connecticut and 
changing cars at Mansfield, Mass. The most frequented 
route, however, is by the New- York and Bristol line of 
steamboats through the Long Island Sound, which in 
pleasant weather is delightful. The boat leaves New- 
York about 5 o'clock in the afternoon and reaches 
Bristol early in the morning, where passengers take the 
cars for New-Bedford. There is also a propeller running 
once or twice a week from New- York to New-Bedford, 
chiefly devoted to the transportation of freight. 

The Acushnet River is nearly a mile wide and flows 
through Buzzard's Bay out into the ocean. The water is 
very clear and the shores sandy and well suited for bath- 
ing purposes. 

During the summer, this place is resorted to mainly by 
travelers who prefer the quiet pleasures of a home near 
the sea to the attractions of the more popular resorts of 
wealth and fashion. Perhaps there is no city in America 
of its size and wealth where so few are tempted to go 
elsewhere for summer recreation ; and the few who leave 
go rather for health than pleasure, desirous of taking the 
milder air of the inland towns. 

There are many fine drives in and about New-Bedford, 
one extending several miles out into Buzzard's Bay on a 
narrow tongue of land laid out and graded at great ex 
pense by the city exclusively for purposes of pleasure. 
During the sultry summer weather the cool breezes from 
the sea render this drive a most attractive resort, and by 
some it has been regarded the finest drive in America. 



SEASIDE EESOKTS. 6^ 

Tlie extreme point of this road commands a fine view of 
New-Bedford, tlie broad river wliich. separates it from tlie 
town of Fairliaven, tlie Elizabetli Islands, and, afar off but 
plainly discernible, the famous cliff of Guy Head in Mar 
tha's Vineyard. But aside from healthy climate, the main 
attractions of New-Bedford and vicinity are the rare facili- 
ties here afforded for bathing, boating, sailing, and fishing, 
and the various pleasant resorts for pleasure, to which ex 
cursions are continually being made from the city during 
the summer, both by land and by water. 

As most of the citizens are at home during the summer, 
entertaining their friends from abroad, there is a full 
supply of all the various methods of sea-side recreation. 
No place along the coast has done more to popularize in 
modern times the felicities of the old-fashioned New-Eng- 
land clam-bake. 

The whaling enterprise in which the people of this vi- 
cinity are engaged, being carried on across the sea far 
away from home and mainly by the labors of strangers 
coming among them, gives to all classes an unusua.1 
amount of leisure, which their peculiar situation affords 
them ample opportunities to enjoy. , 

The hotels of New-Bedford are : the Parker House, cen- 
tral, commodious, and well kept ; the Mansion House, and 
various smaller public houses. There are also a large 
number of private families with whom, at less expense, a 
greater enjoyment of the season may be derived. There 
are by the sea-side, in the neighboring towns, numerous 
places also, where during the summer the houses are 
opened to strangers. In the town of Marion, about 10 
miles from New-Bedford, there is on Great Hill, near the 
shore of Buzzard's Bay, in one of the most delightful spots 
of New-England, an excellently kept hotel, which has for 



68 SEASIDE EESORTS. 

several years furnislied a hoine for hosts of summer tou- 
rists. 

Travelers wishing to pass a few weeks in tlie vicinity 
of New-Bedford sliould by all means so arrange as to 
select that part of tlie month, of August during which is 
held the great Wesleyan Camp-Meeting on Martha's Vine 
yard. Steamboats leave New-Bedford twice a day, carry 
ing people to the island from all parts of the State. 
Every one living in the vicinity of New-Bedford expects 
to pass at least one day in the year at the camp-meeting. 
The island of Martha's Vineyard is about 30 mile? 
from New-Bedford. In reaching it, the boats pass through 
Buzzard's Bay by the islands of Pasque, Nashewena, and 
Na^shou, (the first now under the control of the New- 
York Club, and used by them as a fishing and yachting 
headquarters, and the last, the sunimer residence of Hon. 
John M. Forbes, of Boston, by whom it is owned,) then 
through Quick's Hole and across the Vineyard Sound to 
the " Camp-Meeting Landing," on the east side of the 
island. The meetings are held in a magnificent grove 
owned by the trustees of the association, which, though con- 
secrated especially to religious worship, has in latter years 
"become a general resort for healthful and honorable recre- 
ation. Small cottages and tents have been erected in 
great numbers, some of them with great elegance. The 
grove is laid out in avenues radiating from the central 
place of public worship, and others running somewhat in 
the manner of concentric circles, the inner circle being 
lined with larger tents, which are used by the members 
of the various parishes for domestic and religious pur- 
poses. Oftentimes there are as many as fifteen or twenty 
thousand persons present at one time ; but the arrange- 
ments made by the trustees for the comfort, convenience. 



3*?^ 



SEASIDE RESORTS. 69 

and happiness of all in attendance have become so per- 
fect that, notwithstanding by far the largest part are pre- 
sent for recreation, any disturbance or indecorum seldom 
if ever occurs. Ample provision is also made for board- 
ing and lodging visitors at the Grove, though the more 
common custom is to go and return the same day. The 
fare on the boats is very small, and the trip across the Bay 
and Sound is charming. 

But let not the traveler fail to go to Nantucket and see 
the islanders. This island is nominally under the govern- 
ment of the United States. They have a first-rate hotel, 
the Ocean House, well ordered and kept ; the Adams 
House, less expensive but of excellent character, its host 
and hostess attentive, its tables liberally spread with well- 
cooked food, and its lodging-rooms clean and spacious. 
There are also numerous boarding-houses. Visitors fond 
of fishing will not go -away disappointed. First, there is 
the shark-fishing, which is a sport almost equal in excite- 
ment to the hunting of the buffalo with the lasso. The 
shark is the Ishmael of fishers, he has no friends. The 
timid desire to keep out of his company. They are willing 
to let him alone, contented if he will let them alone ; 
but bolder spirits, when they go to Nantucket, at once 
plan to go sharking. The first thing is to engage the 
services of an experienced skipper provided with a stout 
boat, for sharks are not fond of being hooked. But boat 
and skipper being provided, you start in the morning, first 
for the blue-fish ground ; for fish eat fish, and the blue-fish 
is bait for the shark. Taking the bait is a good introduc- 
tion to taking the shark ; for there is no fishing, unless it 
be spearing of salmon, quite equal in excitement to blue- 
fishing. The blue-fish is deceived by appearances ; he is 
caught with a hook inserted in a bit of pewter shaped 



70 SEASIDE EESORTS. 

somewliat like a smelt, and about as large. The line is 
trailed by the boat, and as the bait is simply drawn flash- 
ing through the water, the blue-fish darts at it, and, seiz- 
ing it, is drawn to the boat, not without a vigorous 
struggle for liberty, and sometimes, when not firmly hook- 
ed, he throws out the hook and is off. When this minor 
sport has been sufficiently enjoyed and bait enough ob- 
tained, the party starts for the haunts of the shark. Ar- 
rived at the fishing-ground, a big piece of blue-fish is put 
on to a big hook, and the baited hook is dropped. Next 
the hook is a fathom or two of iron chain, for the hooked 
shark would make short work of hempen line. Presently 
a dull tug is felt, and the line begins to run out ; when a 
few fathoms have been taken out, the lasso is held fast 
and the shark is firmly hooked and drawn toward the 
boat. This unexpected operation is not received very 
pleasantly ; and the guerrilla of the sea looks any thing but 
aiiiiable as, snapping and struggling, he is drawn to the 
side of the boat, where a few vigorous blows with a club 
upon his nose reduce him to submission. 

Besides this gigantic sport, Nantucket can offer the 
tourist tamer fishing of porgies and perch. In the height 
of the season they have '•' squankams," or clam-bakeir/as 
the " off-island folks" call them. A large party — the larger 
the better, but well assorted— assembles at Quidnit or at 
Quaise, Abram's or at Mattaket, and spends the day in in- 
nocent mirth, stimulated by song and dance and ramble, 
and regalement of roasted clams, and other dainties, to 
which the free air of the plains fresh from the ocean gives 
relish. The evenings at Nantucket in summer are en- 
livened by pleasant dancing-parties among the hospitable 
people of the place, for Nantucket still merits its old repu- 
tation of being hospitable to strangers. The little village 



SEASIDE RESORTS. Il 

of Siasconset lies on tlie soutli-eastern bank of the island 
on its very verge ; and north of this perch is Sancoty Head, 
about a mile distant and rising about 90 feet above 
the sea, which lies below with only a narrow bench. Who- 
ever has read Irving's story of his musings at the main- 
top of the ship which carried him to Europe, and sympa- 
thizes with his feelings, would enjoy a stroll from Siascon- 
set to Sancoty, especially if he were to climb to the gal- 
lery of the lofty light-house, where he can look out on an 
expanse of ocean limited only by the shores of the eastern 
continent. Here lies what to very many is the peculiar 
charm of Nantucket. Extensive unfenced plains and 
gentle undulations, rising here and there into very con- 
siderable elevations, from which an extensive view of the 
ocean is enjoyed, air sweetened by the fragrance of wild 
herbage, perfect seclusion if desired, and yet nearness of 
human life and just as much of social intercourse as one 
desires. Few visitors go away from Nantucket disappoint- 
ed in their expectation of enjoyment. To those who are 
not in search of fashionable amusements, but real rest and 
recreation, a sojourn at Siasconset, or any other dwelling- 
place at the east end of the island, will be found full of 
comfort and delight, and can be found at few other water- 
ing-places or summer resorts. Newport and Nahant are 
delightful, especially Newport ; but the same seclusion 
and naturalness of locality and surroundings can not be 
had, even there. 

STAMFORD, CT. 

Stamford is located on Long Island Sound, 34 miles 
from New- York, to which head centre it is linked by 
the New-Haven Railway, 13 trains running each way 
per day, and by a steamboat making regular trips. 



72 SEASIDE EESORTS. 

It has well-kept roads, schools of a liigli order, (of wliich 
that of Mr. James Betts is worthy of especial mention,) sea 
breezes, commanding sites for houses, a population orderly, 
moral, and refined, prospects unsurpassed for quiet loveli- 
ness, and the church of your choice. It is no wonder that 
such a combination of attractions has arrested the search 
of so many of those who leave the lower end of the busy 
city with plethoric pockets and satisfactory bank accounts. 
Stamford, as a suburb of New- York, is scarcely a score 
of years old ; but Stamford, as a quiet, weil-to-do Xew-Eng- 
land village, reaches back to the days of the Pequods and 
Miles Standish. For several generations it lay dreaming 
on the margin of the Sound, the gently swelling hills 
running down in long emerald slopes to the well-washed 
shore ; and these were cultivated by the descendants of 
those early Connecticut farmers, who settled Windsor and 
Hartford — men who feared God, reverenced the Sabbath, 
and were at peace with their fellows ; peo]3le who, like 
Mrs. Stowe's Uncle Edward, were as upright downright 
good men as ever labored six days and rested on the sev- 
enth. Prominent among them was Abraham Davenport, 
the Connecticut worthy, who has of late been made im- 
mortal by the muse of Whittier, and still, near the spot 

" Where the Sound 
Drinks the small tribute of the Mianns," 

a descendant of that early hero, in his beautiful sea-side 
villa, leads a pure life, and awaits a '' tranquil death." On 
one of the growing streets of the village the inhabitants still 
point to a structure which nothing but rich associations 
has saved from the march of improvement. Here, for a 
short time, \Yashington had his head-quarters during the 
Revolutionary war. As soon as one learns this fact, how 



HO i 

^ SEASIDE EESOETS. ^3 

tlie narrow windows, tlie low ceiling, the bulging walls, 
and the rickety roof fake on a character of dignity, almost 
of sanctity ! "We look with a feeling little less than vene- 
ration upon the worm-eaten threshold, when we remrfnber 
the august form that almost a hundred years ago passed 
over it. 

From the era of the Revolution to the era of the rail- 
ways, the place had a slow, natural growth, the streets 
gradually extending, and a somewhat larger fleet of coast- 
ing schooners rocking gently on the shoal and narrow har- 
bor. But since the scream of the iron horse broke the 
rural charm, New- York has laid a finger on the soil, villas, 
palaces, mansions have sprung up, thousand-dollar teams 
prance the streets, their owners wrapped in gorgeous af- 
ghans, their drivers stiff with buckram and spangled with 
gold lace. Scholars, as well as merchants, have been attract- 
ed hither, men of solid attainments as well as men heavy in 
Wall street. On the verge of a hill commanding a view 
of the ghttering expanse beneath, stands a stone structure 
having an air of mediaeval repose and seclusion. It looks 
like the home of a scholar. Here Dr. John Lord prepares 
those recondite and eloquent lectures for which he has 
long been distinguished, and from here, more recently, he 
sent forth The Old Boman World, that brilliant and influ- 
ential addition to our list of historical writings. Prof. Wil- 
liam H. Woodbury, the eminent German scholar, whose 
text-books have a world-wide reputation, also has his home 
here ; and at the head of a chief avenue lives Mr. Joseph 
B. Lyman, a gentleman of rising literary celebrity, who oc- 
cupies a responsible position on the staff of one of the great 
dailies of the metropolis, and whose accomplished wife is 
a frequent and valued contributor to several well-known 
periodicals. At a little distance is the home of Mr. Wm. W. 



74 SEASIDE BE30ETS. 

Gillespie, of tlie excellent Advocate, a newspaper well sus- 
tained and appreciated, and having an enviable local repu- 
tation. Still further on is the simple residence of the Hon. 
Truman Smith, once a name of power in State and national 
politics. Advancing years have quenched the vigor of 
mind and the rugged eloquence that made him famous in 
his prime ; but they have not abated the soundness of his 
judgment or the warmth of his patriotism. 

But looked at merely as a place of resort for the summer 
months, Stamford really offers rare inducements to people 
who consider quiet comfort as more to be desired than os- 
tentation and empty show. Of this class little less than a 
thousand, mostly New-Yorkers, come hither every season. 
The place possesses an enchanting combination of country 
and suburban charms. There are delightful drives shaded 
by patriarchal elms and maples, and winding up to heights 
from which there is wealth of broad and beautiful views. 
There are good facilities for salt-water bathing, and to those 
partial to the angler's art unusual attractions are offered. 
Picnics are not unfrequent, and " The Cave " and " Pound 
Rock '" are especially popular in this connection. The lat- 
ter is a precipitate ledge that runs far into the sea, orna- 
mented with clumps of trees, beneath whose leafy spray it 
is pleasant to recline and watch the tides that ripple at its 
base, or look away for many leagues on waters dotted with 
snow-white sails, or ruffled by great boats outward bound. 
At a brief remove from this peninsula is another of ex- 
ceeding natural beauty known as " Shippan Point," which 
is to be placed in charge of a landscape gardener, and laid 
out partly as a park and partly as grounds for private resi- 
dences. It is clear to see that in a few years it will thus 
become one of the loveliest features of a lovely enuron, to 
which, all things considered, it is not strange that those 



SEASIDE EESOETS. 75 

who come once, should wish to come again, or that the 
army of invaders should each year be augmented by new 
recruits. If the city readers, wearied with the ^' human 
hubbub," will embark on the pretty steamer " Shippan " at 
Fulton Ferry some summer afternoon, he or she will re- 
ceive kind care at the hands of Captain Waterbury, have a 
pleasant sail, and at the end of the journey find Stamford, 
of whose charms the half has not been told. 



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THE DOMKIOIJ OF CAIfADA. 



LAKE ONTAHIO AND THE RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. 

We have placed the Hudson River trip in tlie front rank 
of summer attractions for tlie tourist in accordance, un- 
questionably, with, popular opinion ; and the superior 
claims of the Upper Mississippi have also received their 
due acknowledgment. The voyage do^vn the River Saint 
Lawrence, however, is also a river-trip, and claims high 
place ; and if all these were to be directly compared, with- 
out considering the great difference between them, it would 
be hard indeed to give either great trip only the second 
place. The three routes are, however, vastly dissimilar 
and each incomparable. The professed tourist never thinks 
of omitting either ; and the chance traveler who peruses 
these pages while sailing upon the emerald waters of On- 
tario or the Saint Lawrence will be quite ready to admit 
that " all the world," some time or other, has honored that 
great excursion. We trust that other readers will see 
enough in the summary view we give below to leave no 
longer unsought so delightful and inspiriting an enjoy- 
ment. 

The Gulf of Saint Lawrence is about 250 miles in length, 
and the river is the furthest navigable of any of the waters 
on the globe. From the mouth to the harbor of Quebec 
the distance is 360 miles, and vessels from Europe ascend 
to Montreal, which is 180 miles higher up its course ; 



fe 



2 THE DOMINION OF CANADA. 

wMle vessels suited to river navigation (as high as 500 
tons burthen) maj traverse uninterruptedly the entire 
distance between the sea and the mouth of the Saint 
Louis River, at Fond du Lac, Wisconsin. In other words, 
the River Saint Lawrence, with some little help from man 
in the shape of canals here and there, for the matter of 
actual navigation, reallj comprises the waters called by 
the follo^\i.ng names : Gulf and River Saint Lawrence, 
Lake Ontario, ISTiagara River, Lake Erie, Detroit River, 
Lake Saint Clair, River Saint Clair, (these three bodies of 
water have no more claim to separate names than the 
Saint Lawrence proper between the Long Sault and Mon- 
treal, as we shall see,) Lake Huron, Saut Sainte Marie or 
Saint Marv's River, Lake Superior, and Saint Louis River. 
If the whole length from the head of Lake Superior be 
reckoned, it will be 1910 miles ; or, including the Saint 
Louis, the head stream of> that lake, 2100 miles. The 
width of the waters varies greatly ; at the mouth of the 
gulf, meeting the sea, 100 miles ; at Tadoussac, the en- 
trance, perhaps, of the river into the gulf, 22 miles ; at 
Lake Saint Peter, above Quebec, 9 miles ; at Montreal and 
Quebec, 2 miles, etc. The waters thus located drain a ter- 
ritory of over 400,000 square miles, and the " basin" con- 
tains, it is said, more than haK of all the fresh water on 
the globe. Peculiarly, therefore, this great Northern 
Amazon may call for our study and admiration. To us it 
will be most interesting — along the limited portion from 
Niagara to Anticosti, which is comprised in our present 
plan — because of its " thousand isles," its exciting rapids, 
its tributary streams with their rapids and falls, the con- 
trasting nationalities and religions on its opposing banks, 
the antiquity of its legends and history, its cities and its 
village-edged shores, the exquisite beauty of its pernicious 



yir 



THE DOMIl^IO^ST OF CANADA. S 

water, and last, but by no means least, tlie abounding fisli 
within its own and its tributary streams. 

The portion of " the Great River" west of Lake Ontario 
will be found described under the proper titles ; our voyage 
now begins where the Niagara ceases to disturb naviga- 
tion, at the head of Ontario, and follows the emerald cur- 
rent until after the ocean sends in upon it the tides which 
destroy its loveliness and crown it with grandeur. The 
routes by which the traveler may reach Lewiston, stand- 
ing midway (7 miles each side) between Niagara Falls and 
Lake Ontario, and at a point where the lower Suspension 
Bridge kindly bars to navigation the foaming river, will 
be found under the article entitled Niagaka Rivee, and 
the routes over the lake and river may be found at the end 
of this article. It may be well, however, to state here, 
that tourists, desiring for any reason to omit the lake, or a 
portion of it, from their voyage, may take cars direct from 
Niagara Falls over the New- York Central Railway to Ro- 
chester, where, changing to train for Charlotte, they go to 
the lake at that point, (tliis will allow 5 hours of Ontario 
sailing between Charlotte and Sackett's Harbor, opposite 
Elingston ;) or may keep on to Syracuse and change to 
Oswego and Syracuse branch for Oswego, or to Rome and 
change to Rome, Watertown, and Ogdeiisburg road for 
Sackett's Harbor, (a rather roundabout route.) But the 
best way is to take the American Express steamboats at 
Lewiston and sail right through (changing at Ogdensburg) 
to Montreal. 

Having completed the visit to Niagara, then, with that 
notable railway ride along the brink of the chasm below 
the Falls, let us suppose ourselves upon the deck of the 
steamer which shall convey us to Ogdensburg. Behind 
lis is the lower Suspension Bridge, at one side is the vil- 



4 THE DOMINION OF CANADA. 

lage of Lewiston, and opposite lies tlie Canadian village of 
Queenstown. Neitlier of tliese places possess mucli inter- 
est for tourists. The Brock Monument, at Lewiston, is 
included usually in the Niagara visit ; and beyond this, 
and the fact that the British burned every building in 
Lemston, and " gallantly defended " Queenstown, (as the 
Canadian guide-books truly say,) during the war of 1813, 
we need not delay. Our voyage now commences, and for 
7 miles lies along the Niagara River. The stream, anon 
so turbid and precipitous, grows more gentle as we near 
the great lake, and its banks betray but little of their 
character as hitherto displayed. The river retains, rather 
than enlarges, its accustomed breadth, and at Fort Niagara 
pours into Lake Ontario at a level 334 feet below that of 
Lake Erie. We may observe the fort as we pass, recalling 
the scenes of bloody conflict between whites and Indians, 
and English and French in the years long gone. 

The village of Youngstown lies a short distance south 
of the fort. On the other shore Fort Massasauga formerly 
guarded, and Niagara Town profited by, the head of the 
lake. The construction of the Welland Canal, however, 
has damaged the latter, as the Erie Canal injured the Ame- 
rican towns, and Massasauga is only interesting as a monu- 
ment of a past age. 

The Welland Canal terminates northward at Port Dal- 
housie, on Lake Ontario, about 10 miles west of the mouth 
of the Niagara— a work so important to navigation that 
the tourist will be sufficiently interested to pay it a visit. 
The canal extends from Port Dalhousie to Port Colbourne, 
on Lake Erie, the last part of it being conducted by way 
of the Welland River, from which it takes its name. The 
canal is navigable for vessels of 500 tons, is 28 miles in 



THE DOMINION OF CANADA. 5 

length, and has two feeders. By means of it, tranship- 
ment to avoid Niagara Falls is rendered needless. 

We now enter upon the last of the five Great Lakes of 
the North. The first glance at the sheet of water Ijing so 
. placid and brilliant before us can hardly fail to provoke 
the exclamation, " Beautiful !" So said the Indian dwell- 
ers in this region when they first beheld the lake, saying, 
in their native tongue, " Ontario !" The journey to Cape 
Saint Vincent is not, perhaps, so interesting in its land 
scenery as very many others ; but nowhere, save on the 
preceding sections of this great water, does the traveler 
have so unfailing a source of delight in looking into the 
emerald depths over the vessel's side. The whole State 
of New- York is full of lakes, whose water is of a beautiful 
color, and often sweet to the taste ; but to sail for a day 
over one perpetual, liquid volume, whose sparkling and 
flashing green surpasses the hue of Nature's carpet, is a 
pleasure that will be abundantly appreciated by an atten- 
tive observer. 

The Lake Ontario is the lowest and smallest of the great 
chain above alluded to, extending 180 miles from west to 
east, with a breadth of 55 miles at the greatest, 35 for the 
average. Its mean depth is 500 feet. By reason of its 
great depth it is much less disturbed by storms than Lake 
Erie, and its navigation much less obstructed by ice, being- 
very rarely interrupted. Its cliief supply comes, of course,, 
through the Niagara chasm; but the Genesee, Oswego, 
Black, and other rivers bring other considerable acces- 
sions. 

The first noticeable feature of the lake shore is the Lake 
Ridge, a narrow elevation on the south, ranging from the 
mouth of the Niagara to Sodus Bay, in Wayne county. 
New- York, nearly parallel with the edge of the lake, and 



6 THE DOMINION OF CANADA. 

at a distance of from 3 to 8 miles back. Its elevation is in 
some places nearly 200 feet above the lake, and generally 
exceeds 160 feet. The line of tlie ridge is not, liowever, 
always sbarply defined. Being composed of sand and gra- 
vel, it makes one of the finest natural roads in the world, 
and the principal highway along this side of the lake has 
been upon its summit. This ridge was doubtless an ancient 
shore line. 

The New- York, or, as it is oddly called, the American 
side, will not call for our special attention henceforward un- 
til we reach the mouth of the Genesee, while the Canadian 
shore is presently of much interest. It is unfortunate that 
both the American and the Canadian lines of boats follow 
their respective shores — chiefly from necessity of avoiding 
constant crossing — so exclusively. The American boats go 
to Toronto alone of Canadian towns ; but the opiDosition do 
not even do as well by the Americans as that, sending, in- 
stead, an extra steamer to Lewiston, and neglecting Eoches- 
ter (Charlotte) altogether. As the chief attractions of this 
lake-trip, however, lie in the passing view, the most im- 
portant towns vnll best be visited separately, if at all, and 
often by other routes. 

The surface of the country on the north shore rises 
gradually from the lake shore and spreads out in broad 
plains. The lake extends some 50 or 60 miles west of the 
point at which we entered it. The important Canadian 
city of Hamilton stands upon Burlington Bay, at the ex- 
treme western limit, invisible from our boat. Hamilton is 
built upon an acclivity extending back from the bay to the 
base of a^ mountain which rises in the rear of the town to 
a con^derable eminence, affording a fine view. The name 
of the founder was given the city, and it dates from 1813. 
Population, 25,000 ; historical reminiscences as a "retiring- 



THE DOMINION OF CANADA. 7 

room" for several British commanders in " tlie last war," 
some of whom afterward advanced to victory. Burlington 
Bay is one of the most commodious and safe harbors of 
Ontario, 5 miles long and 2 wide, and navigable in all 
parts. It abounds in pike, bass, perch, and eels, caught 
preferably by " spearing." During the winter, a number 
of spearing-houses are erected on the bay ; they are ren- 
dered impervious to light, and a circular hole about a yard 
in diameter is cut in the ice, which, in the dark, renders 
the water quite clear. A brilliantly painted decoy-fish is 
made available, and, while the unhappy dwellers in the 
deep hover around it in admiration, the spear-holders 
testify tlieir admiration in a most direct manner. This 
pastime is forbidden by law wholly after February, and at 
any season must not victimize any fish but bass, pike, and 
a few other kinds. 

The cities of no two sections of the United States difier 
more strikingly (we had almost said so strikingly) than 
those of the two Provinces of Ontario (formerly called 
Upper or Western Canada) and Quebec, (Lower or East- 
ern Canada.) Of the former, Toronto leads, while in the 
other section Quebec is most strikingly peculiar. In the 
one, American bustle and hurry seem to have exerted a 
contaminating influence ; in the other, the ancient land- 
marks have not been removed. It will be well for the 
tourist upon whose immediate route lie both Provinces to 
mark the character of each as he has opportunity. Ham- 
ilton, " though not equaling Chicago in its sudden growth 
and expanse, (as says the Canadian Hand-Booh) has, 
from its zeal and eagerness, been named ' the ambitious 
little city.' " It owes its greatness to its fine location, and 
its prominence as the seat of the Great Western Eailway 
of Canada. It has many fine buildings of most modern 



8 THE DOMINION OF CANADA. 

style, but it is indebted mainly for tlieir beauty to a yalu- 
able quarry of yery liglit freestone or limestone near the 
city. There is a number of pleasing resorts outside the 
"heated payements/' which yre need not speciiy here. 
King street is the chief thoroughfare. Hotels, Anglo- 
American and the City Hotel. 

Toronto may next interest us along the lake. The bay 
upon yrhich it stands is caused by a sand-bar, 7 miles long, 
stretching out to the west and terminating in Gibraltar 
Point. This bar has doubtless been caused by the action 
of the lake- water and that of the Riyer Don, which enters 
the bay upon the east. The city itself stands on land 
sloping too little to make the distant yiew one of interest. 
Population, 60,000. In 1T93, Goyernor Simcoe began the 
settlement under the name of York, changed, when it was 
incorporated, in 183-4, to Toronto — meaning, in the Indian 
tongue, '' the place of meeting." One of the principal tho- 
roughfares, Yonge Street, extends, through a fiourishing 
district, to the rare length (for a street) of 36 miles. The 
buildings are chiefly made of the material commonly called 
" Milwaukee brick." The yicinity affords no yery interest- 
ing localities, and the yisitor must content himself chiefly 
with the public buildings — chiefly the Uniyersity with its 
Park. 

Port Hope is 63 miles from Toronto, a pretty town after 
the Canadian pattern, rather sombre to American taste usu- 
ally, and chiefly interesting for the hunting in its yicinity. 
Partridge, hares, woodchuck, and deer are the game 
ayailable. The back-country here abounds in lakes. One 
route to the deer-shooting is, Port Hope to Lindsay by rail, 
Lindsay to Fenelon Falls, Portage to Cameron Lake, and 
then there is shooting on Cameron and Balsam Lakes and 
up Brent Riyer. 



THE D0MI:N10N" of CANADA. 9 

Cobourg, 7 miles farther, county-seat of Xortliumber- 
land and Durham, is a town of considerable importance. 
The Victoria (Methodist) College, chartered 1842 by act of 
Provincial Parliament, is the most interesting locality in 
this vicinity. 

Passing Grafton and Colbourne, we next come to 
Presque Isle Bay, (town of Brighton,) a perfect lagoon, one 
of the best of the many fine indentations of the lake on 
the north coast. 

Across the lake, Eochester lies 6 miles inland, on the 
Genesee River, which comes down to Ontario, with its 
famous leaps, 85 miles from Fort Niagara. The city and 
its environs have been already described at length in the 
article on Genesee Falls, and we only need here — at Char- 
lotte, the small town which serves as the port of Roches- 
ter — to notice the mouth of the Genesee. Here, as at the 
other chief tributaries below, the muddy, shallow river 
water does not at once mingle confusedly mth the clear, 
deep flood of the lake, but leaves a very distinct line to 
m.ark the point of division. 

The next port (and the most populous) on the American 
shore, is Oswego, a city almost rivaling Rochester in the 
beauty of its streets, and far surpassing it in its lofty posi- 
tion on the Oswego River, overlooking the lake. The 
pier (1259 feet long) at the light-house on the lak-e, is a fa- 
vorite promenade in the hours of twilight and moonlight. 
The tourist will notice the demarkation of the opposing 
waters at this point also. Upon the edge of the Oswego 
River, down upon the docks, several fine sulphur springs 
(see Springs of New- Yoke:) were discovered some four or 
five years ago, but have never been made available to 
any extent. Population, 20,000. There is nothing to see 
at Oswego that will interest the tourist much, beyond Fort 



10 THE DOMINION OF CANADA. 

Ontario and tlie nsual Indian stories, tlie great grain ele- 
vators, and — when you are lucky enough, to see it — 
the lake mirage that occurs here when Nature demands 
it. The famous system of " object-teaching" originated in 
the public schools of Oswego. 

Sackett's Harbor, on Black Eiver Bay, 45 miles further 
down, and 20 miles from the* head of the Saint Lawrence, 
was named for a Mr. Sackett, who came here and made a 
\allage of it in 1799. Population now, 2000. Madison Bar- 
racks is the name of a disused military post of the Nation- 
al Government. The harbor, being the best upon the lake, 
was made available as a naval station during that war 
(1812) of which one, on this lake, never hears " the last.'' 

Cape Vincent, which the Canadians, who have a pecu- 
liar passion for nominal sanctity, call Cape Saint Vincent, 
guards the entrance to the River Saint Lawrence. Just 
before reaching it, we pass a group of islands, of which 
Steney, Oallop, and Duck are the largest. Amherst and 
Grand Islands, much more important, are near the Can a. 
dian shore, further down. There is nothing whatever of 
interest at the Cape, unless it be found in the fading view 
of the lake, or the railway depot on the wharf, terminating 
the Rome, Watertown, and Ogdensburg Railway. 

On the opposite (northern) shore we have Kingston, 
standing 4 or 5 miles in from the lake and river, upon 
a harbor formed by Wolf and Garden Islands lying across 
the Bay of Quinte. The city was the original capital 
of Canada. Modern as it appears, it looks far back for 
its history, as its advantageous locale did not fail to attract 
the notice of the early French discoverers. The French, 
under De Courcelles, began a settlement here in 1672, and 
called their fort Cataraqui, which was afterward changed 
to Frontenac. Colonel Bradstreet's expedition against 



THE DOMINION OF CANADA. 11 

the French, and Indians destroyed Fort Frontenac, in 
1758. The British captured and re-named the place 
in 1762, since which time it has been called Kingston. 
Queenston, rather Queenstown, is a sort of complement 
of Kingston, standing at the other extremity of Lake On- 
tario. The military and naval defenses of Kingston are 
second only to Quebec, of all the British stations ; and the 
advantages of its commercial position are nearly as great. 
It is not only at the outlet of the lake into the Great River, 
but is the terminus (south) of the Rideau Canal, and also 
at the junction of the waters of the Bay of Quint e and the 
great Cataraqui Creek. Rideau Canal flows in a north- 
easterly course to Ottawa, following the course of the Ot- 
tawa River much of the way. Population of Elingston, 
about 20,000. The most interesting places to see in the 
city are, the fortifications, including the forts on both 
Henry and Frederick Points, with the martello towers and 
long wooden bridge ; the Provincial Penitentiary, and the 
two Colleges. Hotels — the Burnett House and the British 
American, neither very far from the dock or from the 
other. 

The American traveler who has attentively noticed the 
aspect of the two shores, will not fail to be struck with the 
characteristic appearance of the city of Kingston, and so on 
throughout his further journey. As we are now about to 
reduce the breadth of our horizon from 60 miles to 2, we 
shall frequently have opportunity to compare Canadian 
with American life. The towns of the latter have, in 
most cases, that " bright red brick and painted wood" 
look which distressed Charles Dickens so greatly thirty 
years ago ; a look of acti\'ity, hurry, and business. On 
the other side, as you approach a large town, you are 
struck with the sombreness of its appearance, caused first 



12 THE DOMINIOX OF CANADA. 

by tlie singular contrast wMcli a few flasMng roofs of un- 
painted tin make with, the rather dismal stone in almost 
nniversal use ; while at the smaller places the square stone 
dwellings and stores are supplemented often by ill-kept 
buildings of wood. The contrast extends to the people 
also. On the Oswego wharf, the irrepressible newsboy 
and his brother, the boot-black, will divide the air with, 
the hackmen ; on the north shore, the boat's arrival will 
be as quiet an event as the departure of an Erie train from 
a country station. So, too, there is a marked distinction 
in the general look of the country, affording a continual 
study, which, can hardly fail of beguiling any possibly te- 
dious hours. 

We have now fairly entered the River Saint Lawr^ice. 
From Kingston to Montreal it is by some natives called 
Cataraqui ; by the early French settlers the whole stream, 
down to the gulf, was often popularly called tbe Great 
River, as it deserved ; and the name Canada was probably 
applied to the river in honor of the French settler, De 
Cane, before it was given to the adjacent country ; but the 
prevailing name has always been Saint Lawrence. Jac- 
ques Cartier, the famous na^dgator, began to explore it on 
the calendar festival of that martjT, in the year 1535, and, 
like a good Christian, honored the Saint rather than him- 
self, by naming the waters for him. 

It is an impleasant duty to begin so pleasing a journey 
with a warning ; but we must present here a leaf from the 
book of experience. The traveler who betakes himself to 
the Saint Lawrence voyage, will often reach its commence- 
ment wearied with a long railway journey, and in such 
a case is, more than another, exposed to the evils of chang- 
ing air and water. But, for any one, the water of the 
River Saint Lawrence, though beautiful to the eye, and 



THE DOMINION OF CANADA. 13 

even delicious to the taste, is exceedingly pernicious, in- 
ducing diarrhoea, often violent, when drunk to anv consid- 
erable extent. The traveler is often cautioned against 
i' Montreal water," and may think the fault is in the dark 
Ottawa ; but it is in the sweet water of the Great Eiver, 
beginning at Cape Vincent, and extending as fa.r as to the 
limit of the tides, above Quebec. 

The first 40 miles of the Saint Lawrence have been 
called '' The Lake of the Thousand Isles," from the con- 
tinuous string of islands, isles, and islets, which interrupt 
the channel at all sorts of angles and distances, from Cape 
Vincent clear to Ogdensburg. The statistical people have 
declared that the exact number (of which we are unfortu- 
nately in ignorance) is nearer 1800 than 1000 ; though 
how any human being ever resisted the romance and poe- 
try of nature in this lovely " lake" sufficiently to make 
his journey arithmetical, is a puzzle to us. The islands 
are '' of every imaginable shape, size, and appearance, some 
of them barely visible, others covering many acres ; some 
only a few yards long, others several miles in length ; 
some presenting httle or nothing but bare masses of rock, 
whilst others are so thickly wooded over that nothing but 
the most gorgeous green foliage in summer is to be seen, 
whilst in autumn the leaves present colors of different 
hues hardly imaginable. The passage through the Thou- 
sand Islands by steamer is generally made in the early 
morning. You pass close to, and near enough, often, to 
cast a pebble from the deck of the steamer on to them, 
cluster after cluster of circular little islands, whose trees, 
perpetually moistened by the water, have a most luxuri- 
ant leaf, their branches overhanging the current. Again, 
you pass little winding passages and bays between the 
islands, the trees on their margin interlacing above them, 



14 THE DOMINION OF CANADA. 

and forming here and tliere natural bowers ; yet the wa- 
ters of these bays are so deep that steamers might pass 
under their shade. Then opens up a magnificent sheet of 
water, many miles wide, with a large island apparently di- 
viding it into two great rivers ; but as you approach it, you 
discover that it is but a group of small islands, the river 
being divided into many parts, looking like silver threads. 
Again, the river seems to come to an abrupt termination 
four or five hundred yards in advance of you ; but as you 
approach the threatening rocks, a channel suddenly opens 
out on the right. You are whirled into it, and a magnifi- 
cent amphitheatre of lake opens out before you. This, 
again, to all appearance, is bounded by a dense green 
bank ; but at your approach, the mass is moved, as if in a 
kaleidoscope, and a hundred beautiful little isles appear in 
its place. Such, for upward of 40 miles, is the scenery 
through which you glide." 

Clayton, the first landing after leaving the Cape, is about 
15 miles down the Saint Lawrence, aboat in front of the 
channel between Grore Island on the north, and Howe and 
Wolf (the latter one the most westerly) on the south side 
- of the river. A railway is projected between this point 
and Philadelphia, on the Rome road. Clayton is a favor- 
ite stopping-place for Izaak Walton's disciples, and has 
good hotel accommodations at very low prices. The post- 
ofi^ce address is Clayton, Jeflferson county, New-York. 
The place was formerly known as Freud Creek. 

On the Canadian shore opposite is the village of Gana- 
noque, in Leeds county, at the mouth of a small creek. 

Cornelia is a • small place just below Clayton ; but the 
next point of importance is Alexandria Bay, another large 
fishing station, some 25 miles lower, opposite the northern 
extremity of Wellesley Island, and just above Bathiu'st 



THE DOMINION OF CANADA. 15 

Island. This town was tlie first of tlie river-settlements 
to "be occupied as a watering-place, and a capital one it is' 
mth. good (and cheap) hotel accommodations. It is built 
upon a massive pile of rocks, in a highly romantic neigh- 
borhood. Two or three miles below, there is a spot where 
100 of the islands may be comprised in one view. Ameri- 
cans ^vill prefer the New-York side of the river for their 
headquarters in these great fishing-grounds, as well for 
the greater frequency of hotels as because nine tenths ot 
all the summer visitors come from " the States," and make 
life at Clayton and Alexandria so very agreeable. There 
is no difficulty in getting canoes or accommodations at 
any of the farm-houses, but hotels are hardly to be found 
save at the points just named. Life on this river is emi- 
nently primitive. The fishing among the islands for pike, 
maskinonge, (often as large as 40 or 50 pounds,) black 
bass, doree, etc., is the best in the whole length of the river. 
Myriads of wild fowl are caught at great advantage, on 
account of the ambush one may have upon the little 
woody islets ; and spearing fish at night is still another 
of the sports that may be enjoyed here. 

Morristown is a post-village below Alexandria, near 
Black Lake, inland. The village is 14 miles from Ogdens- 
burg. On the Canadian shore opposite lies Brockville, an 
important town in the united counties of Leeds and Green- 
ville, Ontario Province. Population, 3000. Campbell's 
Hotel is in sight from the landing, a short distance up. 
At this point in the river the great multitude of islands 
ceases, and we come somewhat unexj)ectedly upon the 
open river, 2 miles wide. Henceforth most of the islands 
which we shall see will be large, and in the midst of the 
rapids. 

Ogdensburg and Prescott lie opposite each other, more 



16 THE DOMIXIOX OF CANADA. 

tlian 40 miles from Cape Vincent. The former is tlie 
m.ost northerly town of importance, except Rouse's Point 
and Plattshurg, in the State of Xew-York. Population, 
about 10,000. It lies on land sloping considerably up from 
the Saint Lawrence and its tributary, the Oswegatchie 
River, commanding a fine view ; is much more quiet and 
old-fashioned than most of the cities or large towns which 
one commonly sees in the State, and contains one really 
very singular residence. It was built a long time ago by 
a Frenchman, in a quite indescribable style, resembling 
the French dwellings in Canada more nearly than any 
thing familiar to American tourists at home. The grounds, 
quite in the heart of the city, occupy an entire " block" or 
" square," and are smTOunded by a high, dismal, red-brick 
wall. Within, the dwellings of the various animals — 
horses, hens, pigs — are mainly adorned with elm-bark 
walls. There is considerable roadway, and a mansion of 
much apparent splendor, which must be seen to be appre- 
ciated. The visitor Tvill also go to see the ruins of the old 
Fort, " La Presentation," built in 1748, to shelter the mis- 
sion of the Abbe Piquet, " the Apostle of the Iroquois." 

Ogdensburg is connected by rail with a number of pro- 
minent points south, west, and east. It is the proper ter- 
minus of the Rome, Waterto^n, and Ogdensburg Railway ; 
but the tourist will prefer to know that it is also at the 
western end of the Northern Railway, coming from Rouse's 
Point, which is east by north. By this road tomists, who 
have been enjoying Lakes Champlain and Horicon, come 
to Ogdensburg to see the Islands, or even to go northward 
through the Rapids ; and here, also, of course, the Rapids 
may be omitted from our tour and the Champlain route be 
entered upon. Through fare to Rouse's Point, $4. The 
w^harf of this railway at Ogdensburg is a very superior 



H^^ 



THE DOMINION OF CANADA. 17 

one, and the scene, when a steamer lands its passengers or 
receives them, is very pleasing. 

Prescott, on the Canada shore, (population 2500,) is ra- 
pidly recovering its prestige, lost when the construction of 
the Rideau Canal won its trade away to Kingston ; for now 
the railway just named approaches it at Ogdensburg, and 
another connects it with Ottawa City, on the Ottawa River ; 
beside which advantages, it is on the line of the Grand 
Trunk route. (For the fine trip up the Ottawa River, see 
article under that title.) From Prescott may be seen the 
windmill and the ruined houses, mementoes of the attempt 
at invasion by Schultz and his band in 1838. 

Past Windmill Point, a mile or two below Ogdensburg, on 
the Canada side, we begin to discern a change in the flow- 
ing of the river. The waters show signs of unusual com- 
motion ; their current, at the shores, is noticeably accele- 
rated ; and now, when we behold again the reappearing 
islands, off Point Cardinal, we find ourselves for the first 
time in the Rapids of the Saint Lawrence ! 

We shall not undertake to describe the " shooting of the 
rapids" in detail throughout their long and almost unin- 
terrupted extent from Point Cardinal to Montreal. A few 
facts are all for which we can afford space, beside a list of 
the rapids. The channel through the chief rapids was 
first found some 30 years ago by observing the course 
which some lost rafts took ; and steamboats began to 
" shoot" this course in 1840, piloted by the Indian Teron- 
hiahere. The pilots are generally Indians now ; but the 
absurd stories told by some guide-books about their exclu- 
sive infallibility, should be taken cum grano sails. The 
passage is perhaps the most exciting experience possible 
to tourists anywhere but on the Ottawa or the ocean ; that 
at the last one, the La Chine, near Montreal, being the 



18 THE D0MI:N'I0]S' of CANADA. 

culmination of the wliole journey. In the course of this 
rapid the vessel passes between rocks not 3 feet from the 
side, one of which can be seen grimly rising several feet 
above the water. There is also a very perceptible pitch 
and plunge as the boat i3asses this point. There need be 
no fear on the part of the most timid in " shooting'^ the ra- 
pids ; for the course is perfectly safe, perfectly familiar to 
the pilots, and no accident has ever occurred with loss of 
life. So nearly as we can state now, there has been but 
one case in which a vessel has missed the channel ; then 
she was at once guided to shore, and no damage whatever 
distressed the people on board. 

Of course, it is impossible to pass the rapids on the re- 
turn trip ; and for the accommodation of steamers on 
these, and before the discovery of the channel, on the 
down trips, canals have been cut upon the Canada shore. 
We append a list of the rapids and the canals. 

At Point Cardinal, the GalloiDCS Rapids, 4 in number ; 
at Point Iroquois, Plate Island, the Plate ; the Depleau, 
just above Mariatown. Now we come to the Long Sault, 
through many (several large) islands. This rapid is 9 
miles long, and runs at the rate of 20 miles to the hour. 
Emerging into the Lake Saint Francis, (5^- miles wide,) the 
current subsides only partially, until we have passed its 
length of 25 miles ; the river then narrows, and \\itliin its 
contracted part are the Coteau, Cedars, and Cascades. At 
the end of these, the dark Ottawa, the greatest of the , 
streams which flow into the Saint Lawrence, comes stomi- 
ing down to seek the ocean with the pure waters of the 
Grreat River. Parrot Island stands at its mouth. The Lake 
Saint Louis, 12 miles long and 6 wide, leads us now more 
placidly to the La Chine Rapid, the shortest but the most 
terrible of all ; and after them we shortly behold the tow- 
ers of ISTotre Dame and the Victoria Brido:e at Montreal. 



THE DOMINION OF CANADA. 19 



CANAI;S ON THE SAINT LAWRENCE. 

Length 
Miles, Locks, in Fett, 

Gallopes Canal 2 2 8 

Point Iroquois 3 1 6 

Rapid Plate 4 2 11.6 

Farren's Point % 1 4 

Cornwall (Long Sault) 113^ t 4S 

Beauharnois (Coteau) 

Cedars, Split Rock, Cascade IIX. 9 82.6 

LaChine 8>^ 5 44.9 

The tourist sliould not fail, if he can command his time, 
to take a few steps backward, going np, say the La Chine 
Canal. By this means, and by that of making a visit at 
some points along the shore of the rapids, he will see the 
boat descending the course, and gain a more perfect idea 
of the scene than he could have by experiencing the 
" shooting" only. 

Returning now to the Point (Cardinal) at which we first 
encountered the rapids, we resume our observation of oth- 
er features of our journey. A little above the entrance 
of the Long Sault, 28 miles from Ogdensburg, on the 
American side. Grass River or creek has caused the forma- 
tion of a small post-village, called Louisville, in Saint 
Lawrence county. Stages run from this place to Massena 
Springs, (see article under that name,) 7 miles distant, on 
the Racket River. Dickinson's Landing is a little further 
down, on the Canada shore, at the head of the Long Sault 
Canal. 

At the lower end of the Long Sault, where the north 
and south channels dash against each other so forcibly as 
to give the name of " Big Pitch" to the point of contact, 
are the villages of Cornwall on the north shore, and Saint 
Regis, on the south. Excellent duck-shooting is to be had 



20 THE DOMIXION OF CANADA. 

at Cornwall, in the fall of the year, when the birds spend 
several weeks at the foot of the rapids before they go 
south. Saint Regis is an Indian village, (population 900,) 
quaint and interesting because of its (Iroquois) inhabitants, 
but also noticeable on our route as the point where the 
boundary line of 45°, between the United States and the 
Dominion of Canada, strikes the Saint Lawrence. The 
Saint Regis River is at a little distance, wholly on the 
New- York side of the line. 

The Lake Saint Francis, at the head of which Saint Re- 
gis stands, is a very attractive part of the Great River ; the 
Lake Saint Louis will be more interesting from the occa- 
sional and tantalizing glimpses which one gets of Mont- 
real in the winding course of the steamer. 

Caughnawaga, (cok-nah-wau-gah,X10 miles from Mont- 
real, is a curious little Indian settlement, just above the La 
Chine Rapid. Here, better than anywhere else, one may 
see to what degradation the aboriginal race has sunk. 
Without any of their native grandeur of character, debas- 
ed, immoral, and wretchedly poor, the huts of these un- 
happy creatures will hardly be places for the tourist to 
visit with pleasure. A great many of them wiU be seen 
as we travel along, particularly in Montreal, where many 
of them spend the hours of daylight in petty street-trade. 

This brings us to the great commercial capital of the 
Canadas, the city of Montreal. The traveler will land at 
the splendid granite wharf, and make his way up to tie 
business portion, where he will find abundant hotel accom. 
modation. The Saint Lawrence HaU, and the Ottawa 
House, both on Great Saint James street, which runs par- 
allel to the river shore, are the first hotels; the Donne 
gana, on Notre Dame street, one block nearer the river, is 
also first -class. Besides these leading establishments, there 



THE DOMINION OF CANADA. 21 

are many otlier comfortable houses and cafes, wliere tra- 
velers of all ranks and classes may be lodged and regaled 
according to the varied hnmors of their palates and their 
purses. The terms at the chief hotels are $3 per day, in 
silver or Canada money ;' $4.50 in greenbacks. 

For routes from New- York to Montreal direct, see article 
entitled The Saguekay Eiyer. A very i^leasant route, 
though not quite direct, is by way of the Stanstead, Shef- 
field, and Chambly Railway, to Lake Memphremagog, 
(where a number of wealthy Montrealers have their sum- 
mer residences,) and thence down the Connecticut Valley 
(see sketch under that title) from Newport, Vermont, by 
the Connecticut and Passumpsic, Connecticut River, and 
New- York and Boston Express Line Railways. 

The "Broadway" and "Bowery" of Montreal may be 
found, in Great Saint James street, on which are the Saint 
Lawrence (opposite the Post-office) and Ottawa Hotels, 
Molson Bank, the American Consul's, (in the first-named 
hotel,) the Colonial (dry-goods) Hall, etc. ; and Notre Dame 
street, next toward the river, on which are the Donnegana 
Hotel, and the principal stores for all sorts of goods. The 
bankers and brokers are on Saint Sacrement street, which 
bounds the Convent of Notre Dame on the north. The 
traveler, particularly if Montreal be his first point in the 
Dominion, will want to visit these gentlemen, as American 
money is most decidedly uncurrent across the line, the very 
beggars flinging it back at you. Silver, gold, or Canada 
paper money may be purchased at the same rates as rule 
in New- York ; telegraphic communication being kept up 
with true brokers' constancy. 

The settlement of Montreal dates from 1535, when 
Jacques Cartier, the French navigator, sailing under com- 
mission of Francis I. through these northern waters, reach- 



22 THE DOMINION OF CANADA. 

ed (October 2d) the Indian settlement of Hoclielaga. He 
was so pleased witli tlie splendid mountain lying just back 
of tlie settlement, tbat lie called it, in bis fidelity to bis 
fidelity to bis monarcb, Mont Royal ; but tlie settlement, 
afterward made by Europeans, was not called by tbe cor- 
ruption of that title wbicb now designates tbe city, until 
more tban two centuries after. Tbe Frencb autborities 
consecrated a site upon wbicb tbey founded tbe city, call- 
ing it Ville Marie, on August 16tb, 1642. Tbe Britisb be- 
came tbe possessors of tbe city September 8tb, 1760. Gene- 
ral Montgomery captured it in November, 1775, and beld 
it until tbe following summer. Tbere bave been 3 great 
fires bere — 1765, 1768, 1852 — wbicb bave done mucb, as 
fires always do, toward bringing tbe general appearance 
of tbe city into its present modernness. Tbe splendid lime- 
stone quays date from a little after 1830. Population, 
about 90,000. 

Tbe view wbicb we gain of tbe mountain, island, and 
city of Montreal, is very grand. Tbe mountain is visible 
far back in Lake Saint Louis, and tbere, too, we even 
catcb a glimpse of tbe city upon tbe island, " witb its tin 
roofs," as Tboreau lias said, " wbose reflections fall upon 
tbe eye like tbe clasb of cymbals on tbe ear. Above all," 
(to quote further from tbis genial writer,) " tbe cburcb of 
Notre Dame is conspicuous, and anon tbe Bonsecours 
Market-bouse, occupying a commanding position on tbe 
quay, in tbe rear of tbe shipping. Tbis city makes tbe 
more favorable impression from being approached by 
water, and also being built of stone, a gray bmestone 
found on the island. Here we have found a city's harbor, 
to which ships of 600 tons can ascend, and where vessels, 
drawing 15 feet, lie close to the wharf, 540 miles from the 
Gulf; the Saint Lawrence being bere 2 miles wide." 



THE DOMINION OF CANADA. 23 

Otlier distances of Montreal are : 180 miles south-west from 
Quebec, and 420 north from New- York. Tlie Mount Royal 
Is about 1000 feet bigb. The island is 30 miles long, and 
10 at its greatest breadth ; the city lies upon its south side, 
and a branch of the Ottawa River comes into the Saint 
Lawrence opposite, where it is divided again for a little 
by the Island of Jesus (23 miles by 6) into 2 branches or 
mouths, called the Saint John and the Prairie Rivers. 
The ride " around the mountain," giving one an oppor- 
tunity to see something of this section, is a favorite one 
with residents, as is also that of La Chine, where, at the 
proper hours, one may enjoy the great sight of the steam- 
boats and rafts " shooting" the rapids. 

The places to see in Montreal are many : an American 
will be most surprised in the older or lower part of the 
town, beginning in the vicinity of Notre Dame Cathedral. 
This quarter resembles Quebec considerably in its mediae- 
val, uncouth, indescribable houses and streets. If possible, 
the visitor, who wishes to see the real peculiar life of these 
French Canadians, should be in Montreal on the Corpus 
Christ! festival of the Roman Church, otherwise called 
Fete Dieu, (occurring, this year, June 14th,) when the 
"Host" is carried in solemn procession through the streets, 
and an immense throng of believers bow in veneration be- 
fore it. The Notre Dame Cathedral stands near the quays 
and the Bonsecours Market, and, hardly excepting the 
Victoria Bridge, is the greatest object of interest in the 
city. Indeed, the Roman Catholic churches are first in the 
usual catalogue of tourists ; for this is a Roman Catholic 
city to all intents and purposes. It is the see of a bishop 
of that church, but is also the see of an Anglican arch- 
bishop, who is the Metropolitan of Canada. The great 
cathedral is of Gothic architecture, 255 feet long, 134 wide ; 



24 THE DOMINION OF CANADA. 

with. 2 principal towers, 220 feet liigli ; the great bell, 
whose ringing is an event, weighs 14 tons, and occupies 
the south tower, while in the other are a chime of bells ; 
and the church will contain 10,000 to 12,000 people. 
There is a convent connected with the estate. The Jesuit 
Church, on Bleurj street, has the finest frescoing in the city, 
or, some say, in the land. The new Christ Cathedral of 
the English Church on Xotre Dame street, and the Irish 
Cathedral, and the church of the Scotch '*'Kirk," on La 
Gauchetiere street, are each well worthy a visit. So, also, 
one will wish to see the Crystal Palace, the Skating Rink, 
the Hotel Dieu, the Molson Bank, a most ornate edifice, on 
Great Saint James street, the McGill College, on the moun- 
tain side, the Bank of Montreal, near Xotre Dame, the 
m.onument (1801) to Xelson, in Trafalgar square, at the 
Place Jacques Cartier, and the Champ de Mars. At the 
latter place you will see fine drilling, but you may meet 
the " red-coats" everywhere in the city, as, indeed, in all 
Canada. Thoreau said, with more i)ungency, perhaps, but 
with much the same spirit that would animate most 
Yankees here : " The soldier here, as everywhere in Ca- 
nada, appeared to be put forward, and by his best foot. 
On every prominent ledge you could see England's hands 
holding the Canadas, and I judged by the redness of her 
knuckles that she would soon have to let go." Montreal 
is the headquarters of the British forces in Xorth- America, 
and is under command of Major-General Russell, one of the 
noblest and most genial Christian gentlemen in the land. 
Beside all these matters of interest to strangers, there are, 
of course, the usual places and things curious in a city or 
a metropolis. There is nothing of note in the local govern- 
ment ; for the Parliament buildings, formerly located here, 
were burned in 1849 by a political mob, have been re- 



THE DOMimOX OF CANADA. 25 

placed by otliers at Quebec, that city liaving been made 
tbe seat of government in consequence. 

Tlie finest vieTTs of tlie city and vicinity are to be bad 
from the top of tbe great bell-tower of Xotre Dame, from 
tbe reservoir on tlie sbonlder, and tbe grounds of Mr. James 
Redpatb, on tbe summit, of tbe Mount Royal. Tbese places 
are usually all accessible. But tbe Victoria Bridge, wbicb 
spans tbe Great River at tbe city, is tbe lion^ar excellence 
of Montreal, tbe eigbtb wonder of tbe world, tbe link of 
tbe Grand Trunk Railway, connecting (for railway pur- 
poses only) tbe city of Montreal, on tbe island, witb tbe 
mainland to tbe soutb, giving to tbe ancient Hocbelaga 
an unbroken railway communication of 1100 miles in 
lengtb, besides connections. Tbe lengtb of tbe bridge is 
9194 feet, or nearly 2 miles. It rests, in tbis splendid 
transit, upon 24 piers and 2 abutments of solid masonry, 
tbe central span being 330 feet in lengtb. Tbe beavy iron 
tube tbrougb wbicb tbe railway track is laid is, in its 
largest dimensions, 22 feet bigb and 16 feet wide. Tbe 
total cost of tbis bridge was §6,300,000. It was formally 
opened, witb bigb pomp and ceremony, amidst great 
popular rejoicings, by Albert, Prince of Wales, during bis 
visit to America in tbe summer of 1860. It is possible for 
tbe visitor to obtain permission to walk tbrougb tlie great 
tube, by applying at tbe Grand Trunk ofiices at Point 
Cbarles, near tbe Bridge. Of course tbe time for sucb 
a feat must be carefully cbosen. By tbis means one may 
gain a better idea of tbe magnitude of tbe undertaking 
tban be would be likely to bave by tbe mere rail transit. 
On our journey we x^ass under tbe bridge, before reacbing 
tbe city — tbe smoke-stacks of steamboats being made so 
tbat tbe upper portion of tbem can be lowered on occasion. 

Tbe '' Ice Sbove," a most imposing spectacle, may be 



26 THE DOMINION OF CANADA. 

witnessed by those travelers wjio arrive at Montreal to- 
ward tlie beginning of April. TMs strange phenomenon 
results from the crowding of the ice about a mile below 
the city, where the channel of the river is comparatively 
narrow ; there it is packed, piled, and frozen into a solid 
mass of 20 to 30 feet in thickness, which, when lifted by 
the rising waters above, and set in motion again by the 
whole hydraulic power of the gigantic stream, rashes on- 
ward until again impeded by the banks of the narrowing 
river. The lateral pressure it there exerts forces the hor- 
dage up on the land, where it not unfrequently accumu- 
lates to the height of 50 feet. 

Lea^dng Montreal, the tourist usually loses most of the 
scenery to Quebec, as the journey is made between 7 r.ir. 
and 7 a.:m. Our Saguen ay-bound friends will be on the 
river with us now, until they leave us at Tadoussac ; but 
the excursions to Anticosti, Saint John's, and Halifax, 
being really a sea voyage, are made in larger vessels. 

Passing down the river below Longueil, (4 miles,) and 
the junction of the north branch of the Ottawa, steering a 
course among a number of islands scattered about in the 
stream, we come to the head of Lake Saint Peter. This is 
the tliird of the great exxDansions of the Saint Lawrence, 
and the last before the whole stream widens its course, and 
casts itself into the Atlantic Ocean by the Gulf. We are 
now 45 miles below Montreal. Here is a village called 
Sorel, standing at the mouth of the river, which contri- 
butes the waters of Lakes Champlain and Horicon to the 
great river. This strait is 80 miles in length, and has 
four names : Richelieu, Sorel, Saint John, and Chambly. 
Rouse's Point stands at its head, just over the interna- 
tional boundary. 

On the way to the lake, we should perhaps mention 



I -^ >^ 



THE DOMINION OF CANADA. 27 

Yarennes, 15 miles from Montreal, because of its mineral 
springs, now coming into some fame. But Sorel is our 
first stopping-place. The place is also called William 
Henry, after King William IV., wlio, wlien in tlie naval 
service, and lying off Quebec, visited this sliore. There 
was a fort built here in 1665, by De Tracey, and for many 
years was the summer residence of successive governors 
of Canada. The town occupies the old site. There is 
splendid snipe-shooting in this neighborhood in October, 
and good fishing all the year among the islands. 

The Lake Saint Peter is 25 miles long and 9 broad ; a 
place of no manner of interest, excepting to such unlucky 
T^dghts as are " stuck " or shipwrecked in its miserable 
basin. There is very good pike-fishing here, we should 
say, and good duck-shooting along the shores ; but the 
most part of the lake is shallow, and the channel, which 
has been dredged out with much labor, is very intricate, 
and in stormy weather the Lake Saint Peter is a dangerous 
as well as uninteresting place. For want of other excite- 
ment, the traveler by daytime, if by any chance there 
might be such an individual, might here notice the rafts or 
raftsmen of the river. They constitute quite a feature in 
the river life. Oftentimes, one could see quite a collection 
of the rafts lashed together, floating lazily down with the 
current, or courting a breeze with huge pieces of canvas 
spread out from an upright fir-pole. On the rafts each 
proprietor erects a shanty for his temporary residence, oc- 
cupied often several weeks, and when, with gayly-decked 
flag and sail-poles, shouting and singing ^' Canadian boat- 
men," and a good impulse, these queer craft go hurrying 
down the river, the effect is picturesque enough to enter- 
tain many dull hours. 

At the northern or lower end of Saint Peter we find the 



28 THE DOMINION OF CANADA. 

city of Three Rivers, so named because tlie Saint Mau- 
rice, pouring in its waters at this point, divides, as it 
enters, into three channels. This is about the middle 
point between Montreal and Quebec, being 90 miles from 
each. A Roman Catholic bishop has his seat here, and 
the cathedral is said to be one of the finest in Canada. 
The city is mainly indebted to the lumber business for its 
prosperity ; but the Saint Maurice Forges, where bog-iron 
is converted into car-wheels, box-stoves, etc., have been in 
operation for more than a century. 

The River Saint Maurice is a large and important tribu- 
tary of the Saint Lawrence, 400 miles in length, rising in 
the fine lake country in the north, but very little is known 
of it. A trip up this river is highly recommended to such 
tourists as love to seek wild scenery through the difficul- 
ties of a primitive country. There are innumerable small 
lakes in the section between the Saint Maurice and the 
Saguenay, and the woods and waters teem with those 
creatures which seem to have been created for the delecta- 
tion of sportsmen. 

About 30 miles up the Saint Maurice the River Shawe- 
negan joins it, and a little above this point, on the former 
stream, are the Falls of the Shawenegan, 150 feet high. 
The current of the river, though rapid, may be ascended 
by canoes, and the tourist may engage these, with xoya- 
geurs, at Three Rivers. There is another fall, the Grand- 
Mere, above, with a portage between. A steamboat plies 
on the waters of the Saint Francis between Grandes Piles 
and La Tuque, the latter 80 miles from the Saint Law- 
rence. Algonquin guides can be had hereabout who are 
able to start a moose from cover in the proper season. 

We should observe, before we leave Three Rivers, that 



if ^v 



THE DOMINION OY CANADA. 29 

it stands at tlie liead of tide-water, 90 miles from Quebec 
and 290 from tlie ocean. 

Batiscau, Sainte Anne, and Jacqnes Cartier Rivers (the 
last formerly a good salmon stream, now being improved 
again by a Quebec ckib) break the monotony of the re- 
maining distance to Quebec. 

Below Quebec we come to a new phase of tbe Great 
River. The banks, wMcb. have Mtberto been low and fer- 
tile, now begin to manifest a sense of the dignity wliicb 
becomes the shores of so mighty a torrent. We have long 
passed the limit of salt and tide-water, and shall no longer 
be in danger of taking a treacherous beverage from over 
the boat's side. Shortly after the river passes the walled 
city, it begins to widen ; and, except that just beyond Isle 
aux Coudres it is narrow for a little, the breadth is kept, 
in the main, and steadily increased, being at Tadoussac, 
which some call the end of the river, fully 18 miles. 

The Quarantine for Quebec is 30 miles down, at' Grosse 
Isle — a beautiful place, but saddening in the memory of 
the 6000 Irish emigrants buried in one grave here, in the 
terrible year of famine in tlieir native land. 

There is a group of islands about 36 miles down, of 
which the chief, united by a belt of low land, are Crane 
and Goose. They are the resort of myriads of geese, 
ducks, and teal. The game-laws are rigidly kept by the 
McPherson family, owners of this Seigneury ; but permis- 
sion for a day's shooting can be obtained without diffi- 
culty. 

Chateau Richter, below, has a fine vicinity. The 
swamps bearing the same name furnish 3000 or 4000 
snipe per season, and so on. It is easier to say wliere 
game is not to be had hereabout than where it is. The 
Canadian Hand-Booh remarks, " The shores of the whole 



30 THE DOMTISION OP CANADA. 

of tlie lower Saint La^wrence are probably unequaled in 
tlie world for the numbers and variety of wild fowl wMcb 
frequent tliem. In tlie fall of tbe year especially, they 
swarm with ducks, teal, and other sea-fowl. At the en- 
trance of the gulf the bird-rocks are tenanted by large 
numbers of gannets, puflB.ns, guillemots, auks, and kitti- 
wak,es, and their eggs are an article of traffic to some of 
the neighboring coasters." 

There are also many attractive places here, particularly 
the Falls of Sainte Anne, of Fereol, and the Seven Falls. 
The ravine of the first of these is described as exceedingly 
bold and fine. 

The river below Goose Island, as far as the mouth of the 
Saguenay, at Tadoussac, is nearly 120 miles wide ; the tides 
rise 18 feet, the water is clear and cold, and the channel very 
deep. Here may be seen oftentimes the black seal, the 
white porpoise, and the black whale. Murray Bay, on the 
north shore, and Riviere du Loup and Cacouna, on the 
south, share with Tadoussac the distinction of sect-side re- 
sorts for Montrealers. 

Murray Bay, 80 or 90 miles below Quebec, is a small, 
quiet watering-i^lace, flanked with frowning hills and wild 
scenery, with good fishing in a river of the same name. 
It is a place well adapted to persons seeking quiet enjoy- 
ment and society (being well patronized by excellent peo- 
ple) during the summer. Our vessel will stop at the bay. 
Eight leagues beyond Murray Bay, on the same (north) 
shore, is a very lofty cape, at a place called Les Bales des 
Rochers. On its summit, where man has never been, 
there has existed from time immemorial a raven's nest. 

Riviere du Loup is another favorite, more fashionable 
watering-place, 114 miles below Quebec, named from the 
Du Loup, which conies into the Saint Lawrence here, after 



1^1 

THE DOMINION OF CANADA. 81 

indulging itself, a mile back, in a fall of 80 feet. The 
Grand Trunk Railway stops its northward aspirations at 
this town. Sea-bathing, fishing, and society form the at- 
tractions of Riviere du Loup in the season. 

Cacouna is 6 miles below — 120 miles from Quebec. It 
is to Canadians quite as fashionable and favorite a place as 
Newport or Long Branch to Americans. It occupies a fine 
position upon the river, choice in climate and bathing 
facilities, and is much patronized also by visitors from 
*'the States." 

The Grand Falls of the Saint John River are compara- 
tively easy of access from Cacouna, by way of Riviere du 
Loup, by tri-weekly stage. The falls are midway upon 
the journey (450 miles in all) of this the great river of 
New-Brunswick to the sea. At a sudden turn the river 
contracts to a width of not more than 50 yards, and 
plunges down in a solid mass to a basin 40 feet below ; 
then follows a succession of falls, making 40 feet more of 
descent in about a mile. The water rushes through what 
might be termed a winding chasm, whose sides are per- 
haps 150 or 200 feet high, perpendicular, and composed of 
a bluish slate. Generally speaking, the entire distance 
from the first fall to the last presents a sheet of foam, 
though around every jutting point is a black and appa- 
rently bottomless pool, teeming with fish. There is a com- 
fortable stopping-place kept at the falls by Mrs. Russell. 

Tadoussac is said to stand at the entrance of the Saffue- 
nay into the Saint Lawrence, 140 miles from Quebec and 
320 from Montreal, but really it is 5 miles up that great 
tributary. (See sketch entitled The Sagtjenay River.) 
It is a place of not a little popularity for its sea-bathing 
and fishing, but to the traveler it vnll be most interesting 
on account of its antiquity and history. For here, so tra- 



32 THE DOMINI o]sr OF ca:n-ada, 

dition, confirmed by nature, hath it, was erected tlie first 
of all stone and mortar buildings on the continent of 
America. Father Marquette, the famed Jesuit missionary, 
honored in name on the extreme western portions of the 
Gfreat River, built here a stone church some time in the 
sixteenth century, and its ruins may still be seen, a little 
back of the landing, on the hill. From the centre of the 
ruin has grown a cluster of pine-trees, which must have 
existed as much as 200 years. 

The town of Tadoussac is charmingly situated upon a 
semi-circular terrace at the top of a beautiful bay with a 
sandy beach, hemmed in by the frowning cliffs of the Sa- 
guenay. There is an agent of the Hudson's Bay Company 
here, and an American consul, whose flag, waving ^vith 
the Union Jack to bid welcome to the approaching vessel, 
usually seems one of the brightest objects upon the land- 
scape to the eyes of our tourists. The Tadoussac Hotel, 
by Mr. Browning, charges $3 per day. 

Trois Pistoles is our first station below Tadoussac on the 
route to Halifax, and 140 miles from Quebec, on the south 
shore. The fishing here is something fabulous. The 
rocky islet 2 miles or so from the shore is called the Isle 
of Rosade, and was the scene of a dangerous adventure 
of some 40 persons who were rescued and brought back 
to it from ice upon which they had ventured and been 
carried from safety. A cross marks the memorial which 
their gratitude has set up. We are now fairly upon the 
broad and constantly spreading arm of the sea, far re- 
moved from all accustomed river scenery, and fast hasten- 
ing, like the waters which bear us, to the open Atlantic. 
It is quite an unsettled question whether the gulf begins 
at Anticosli Island or at Tadoussac ; but certainly, which- 
ever be our theory, we can not but be impressed with the 



' /' 



THE DOMINION OF CANADA.. 33 

cliange wliicli a day's sail lias wronglit upon tlie beautiful 
river. The geological observer will perhaps agree with 
us in finding the opening of the river inip the gulf at 
Trois Pistoles, although the gazetteers, etc., give the 
mouth of the Madeleine (lat. 49'' 30') as the true point '■> 
for vre mark on the southern coast of the Saint Lawrence, 
at a distance varying from 10 to 40 miles inland, the range 
of mountains variously called Notre Dame, Shickshock, 
and Sainte Anne Mountains — a sign, ordinarily, of an ocean 
coast. These mountains begin about south of Trois Pis- 
toles, and extend all the way to Graspe Bay. 

Thirty miles beyond Trois Pistoles are island, promon- 
tory, and harbor of Le Bic, (the Eagle's Beak,) an excel- 
lent ancient landing-place, still honored. Near it is the 
L'Islet au Massacre, remembered as the scene of the bloody 
massacre of all but 5 of 200 Micmac Indians by their Iro- 
quois foes. 

Rimouski, still on the south shore, is 180 miles from 
Quebec, on the river of the same name. Hotel, Saint Lau- 
rent's, excellent. The trout-fishing up the river is ,tlie 
chief inducement to stop. There is a good deal of business 
done in town in saw-mills, ship-yards, and the like, and 
the government wharf here is very fine. 

Metis is 200 miles from Quebec, on the south shore, 
boasting the best of the government wharves. It is a 
whaling town, after a manner ; the " hump-back " species, 
yielding three to eight tons of oil, are hunted in schooners, 
and harpooned in the regular orthodox manner. 

Some 50 miles further down, we reach the Point de 
Monts, on the northern coast, and Cape Chatte, a few miles 
above Sainte Anne, the most northerly town on the south- 
ern coast of the Saint Lawrence. Here are the last ap- 
proaches of the two shores ; beyond Point de Monts the 



34 THE DO^ITXION OF CANADA. 

nortliern sliore turns almost due nortli, receiving Trinity 
Kiver at the bay of tlie same name (not tlie famous tele- 
graph statiom) a few miles distant in tliat direction. The 
southern shore rounds away again after it has ceased to be 
a river coast and at its most nertherly point (there are no 
more settlements of any importance) the River Madeleine 
empties into the gulf amid the wildest scenery. There 
are horizontal layers of limestone here, fretted away all 
around their base by the action of the tides and waves, 
which assume the most fantastic shapes. A legend of the 
fishermen dwelling here explains the moaning sound in 
the hollow, surf-filling caverns, by the tale from which 
the place draws its name. Of a shipwrecked family an 
infant only was washed ashore alive, and its wailings, re- 
sultinof in its relief, are ima opined to be vet identical with 
the moans of the waves, hence the name Le Braillard de 
la Madeleine. 

Eounding now the great shoulder of the Province of 
Quebec, we come, on the eastern side, to Cape Roziere, 
passing, meanwhile, the western half of the desert Anti- 
costi Island. Anticosti has 2600 square miles, or one 
fourth more tlian the State of Rhode Island ; its interior is 
mountainous and wooded, and, as might be supposed, the 
climate would be very severe. The northern coast is high 
and has no harbors ; the southern coast is low and very 
dangerous. A light-house warns vessels off the south- 
western point. At Cape Roziere, just over Graspe Bay, on 
the most eastern projection of the Province, there is a curi- 
ous natural arch, called Perce Rock, under which a fish- 
ing-smack under full sail may pass. Formerly there was 
also a fantastic boulder closer to shore — for Perce Rock is 
at some distance out — called Ship Head, so fashioned as to 
resemble strikingly, in calm weather, a large ship under 



THE DOMIISION OF CA:^^^^©^. 35 

full sail. It has toppled over now ; but there is some odd- 
ness in the remaining rocks, called the Old Man, as the 
phantom was sometimes disrespectfully termed the Old 
Woman. 

Cape Desespoir is the most dangerous point on the coast ; 
and passing this, we soon come to Chaleurs Bay. Here 
we will take leave of the touT, which no longer fairly 
comes under the title of the " Saint Lawrence Voyage,'' 
and leave the reader to those mercies of the remaining 
sea- voyage to Halifax and Saint John which seldom leave 
much preference for the perusal of *' resort-books." 

THE SAGTIENAY RIVER. 

Next to the great and popular Saint Lawrence voyage — 
of which, indeed, it is properly a part — the trip up the 
Saguenay Eiver, from Tadoussac to Ha ! Ha ! Bay, or the 
Lake Saint John, is the very grandest which the traveler 
may seek east of the Missouri. Within less than ten 
years, public attention has been considerably attracted 
thither, and that region, which formerly appeared in all its 
fitting wildness to the stray traveler, is now becoming 
more and more frequented every year. Not the least of 
the attractions of this great journey is its singular cheap- 
ness. If one shall go from New- York City, with explicit 
reference to it alone — a more costly method, of course, ■ 
than to add it to other trips north and east — the expense 
will be about as follows : Fare, all rail, from New- York to 
Montreal, (the water journey on the Hudson and Lakes 
George and Champlain, if meals and state-rooms be in- 
cluded, will not be materially less,) §12.50 ; the Saguenay 
round trip proper, by steamboat, (transfer made at Quebec 
going and returning,) $7 in silver, berth in state room and 
meals included between Montreal and Quebec; below 



36 THE DO:\IIXIO]S" OF CANADA. 

Quebec, meals and state-room bertli 50 cents eacli, in sil- 
ver. A day in Quebec (wliicli the regular delay of tbe 
boat affords) will cost from $1 (always silver, till you 
return to tbe Stars, Stripes, and greenbacks) to §10 or 
more, according to tlie amount of " sigbt-seeing " done ; 
and tbe tour of Tadoussac, or of Grand Basin, will add a 
dollar or two more. Probably, the traveler will be obliged 
to spend Sunday in Burlington or Montreal, adding §6 to 
$10 American money ; for, as the time from New- York to 
Montreal is 17 hours, (it has been done in 14,) leaving 
New- York at 7 A.M. Monday, and as the boat leaves Mon- 
treal at 7 P.:^!. Monday, the tourist must either spend Sun- 
day within reach, or wait for Wednesday's or Friday's 
boat, or take the possible chance of overtaking Monday's 
boat at Riviere du Loup, by Grand Trunk Railway from 
Montreal. The whole cost from Xew-York to the Sague- 
nay and return, therefore, need not exceed $60. 

The route to the Great River will vary according to the 
tourist's preferences. Most of the methods of approach 
Tvill be found described in other parts of this volume. 
(See Alo:^^g the Hudsox, Lake Geokge, Lake Cha:m- 
PLAi]^, Riyer Saikt Lat^t^exce, etc.) The briefest is as 
follows from New- York : Leaving Thirtieth Street depot 
(Hudson River Railway) at 7 a.:m., the traveler will reach 
[Montreal at 7 the next morning. The steamboats for the 
Saguenay leave Montreal (beginning about July 20th) at 
7 P.3I. on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays. Taking 
the Monday boat (the best, usually, we understand) for 
an example, her trips are as follows : Quebec, Tuesday, 
6 A.]M. ; Tadoussac, (mouth of Saguenay,) 10 p.:m. Ascend- 
ing the river in the night, the chief points are passed just 
as day is breaking : Ha ! Ha ! Bay, head of steam naviga- 
tion,) 6 AM. Wednesday. Four hours' delay at this point, 



THE D0MI:N"I0X of CANADA. 37 

allowing an ample visit to th.e Tillage. The day is con- 
sumed in the grand river journey, passing Capes Trinity 
and Eternity (the chief points) just before dinner ; Tadous- 
sac again about 5 P.M. Several hours of daylight remain 
for the fine sail in the broad Saint Lawrence, and the next 
dawn (Thursday) shows the Falls of Montmorenci, and 
soon after the city of Quebec. The whole day, until 4 p.m., 
is at the tourist's command, which most will improve by 
a tour of the American Cadiz ; carriages for the day, to go 
to the Falls — 7 miles — the Plains of Abraham, etc., may 
be hired at the wharf (make your bargain at the start) for 
$3 in silver. The steamer upon which the journey was 
made from Montreal to Quebec is again taken, and, after a 
fine night's rest, the traveler finds himself back at the 
granite docks of the city of Montreal just in time (usually) 
to ride rapidly (hack charge, 50 cents) to the morning 
trains going southward from Bonaventure Station. We 
take occasion here again to caution strangers in Montreal, 
or anywhere else upon the shores or waters of the EiA'er 
Saint Lawrence, to use the greatest moderation in drink- 
ing water ; for the river water, universally used hereabout, 
though delightful to the taste, is almost invariably provo- 
cative of violent diarrhea to those unaccustomed to it. 

In regard to the steamers making the Saguenay excur- 
sion, there is usually more or less competition against the 
Royal Mail or Richelieu Line, which is the " regular " one ; 
and the traveler will probably find a pleasant financial 
economy in avoiding the over-crowded Richelieu boats for 
their less popular but equally good — often superior — 
rivals. 

The journey up the Saguenay has a wide fame for its 
grandeur ; but the tourist must not form too peculiar an 
estimate of its character. The common supposition among 



38 THE DOMINION OF CANADA. 

those wlio know of it only througli inaccurate sketclies or 
guide-books, that it is a narrow, almost bottomless chasm, 
with beetling, rocky banks, which shut out the light of 
day, is entirely mistaken, and should be abandoned before 
one visits the river. A most suitable preparation for the 
Saguenay trip, which we earnestly recommend to the 
tourist from New- York, is a visit to the Au Sable Chasm, 
near Lake Champlain, (see article on The Adirondacks, 
near the end,) lying almost directly on the route from 
Is ew- York to Montreal. By leaving the all-rail route at 
Burlington, and crossing to Port Kent and Keeseville, the 
tourist will be able to spend his Sunday, after seeing the 
chasm, at the latter village, and start Monday morning in 
time to catch the evening boat to the Saguenay. Hotel at 
Keeseville, Au Sable House; excellent rooms and table, 
and charges much lower than at Montreal or even Bur- 
lington. 

The tourist from Boston may catch the Monday boat 
from Montreal by taking the Grand Trunk Railway, 
through Portland, to Quebec or Riviere du Loup — a te- 
dious journey. The route ma Concord and Wells River 
Junction is far ]D-referable ; but at the present writing we 
can not be sure that the 7.30 A.M. train from Boston will 
reach Montreal in time for the Saguenay boat. Probably 
local trains between Essex Junction and Montreal will be 
adapted to this want. 

Close upon the boimdary-line between the Dominion of 
Canada and the Hudson's Bay Territory rise eleven consi- 
derable rivers, which flow from that uninhabited wilder- 
ness into the Lake Saint John, 150 miles above the Saint 
Lawrence, and nearly due north of Quebec. This lake is 
30 miles long and, in its widest part, as many broad ; its 
climate is preferable to that of the sea-coast ; the waters 



*/r/ 



THE DOMINION OF CANADA. 39 

are uncommonly clear, and abound witli the clioicest fish ; 
and the fall of the Oueat Chouan, (signifying in Indian, 
" Do you see a fall there ?") 236 feet high, is so conspicuous 
as to be seen 40 or 50 miles distant. The Saguenay River 
is the sole outlet of this lake, flowing for the first half of 
its course in a narrow {half a mile) stream, over falls and 
rapids, through an unbroken wilderness ; most of the lat- 
ter half comprises the famous scenery which the tourist 
seeks. There are but four settlements upon the whole 
length of the river : Ghicoiitimi, 68 miles from the mouth 
at the Saint Lawrence ; Ha ! Ha ! Bay, or Grand Basin, 
at the head of navigation, 60 miles ; Saint John's Bay, 33 
miles ; and Tadotcssae, 5 miles from the Saint Lawrence. 
The steamboats ascend the river to Ha ! Ha 1 Bay in the 
night ; and so the tourist first beholds the great river at 
the northern extremity of its wilder portion. Below Ha ! 
Ha! Bay (so named because of the delightful contrast 
which the first French voyagers there beheld after the 
awful solitude of the lower river) the stream deserves its 
Indian name, Gliicoufimi — " deep water ;" for henceforth it 
flows between rocky banks, often perpendicular, from 500 
to 1500 feet high, with a channel 2 miles wide, and so deep 
that the largest ships might sail from the mouth to Grand 
Basin. The great depth of the water — ^varying from 100 
to 1500 feet — as well as, perhaps, some mineral deposit 
within it, renders it of an inky blackness, greatly adding 
to the grandeur of the whole scene. The rock region be- 
gins a few miles below Ha ! Ha ! Bay, with the TaUeaic, a 
lofty plateau of dark-colored granite 600 feet high and 300 
wide, smooth as though cut by the hand of art, and ter- 
minating suddenly with a single perpendicular rock, 900 
feet high. Further on, Statue Point, a great boulder, 800 
feet high, is noticeable for a cave half-way up its face, ut- 



40 THE DOMINION OF CANADA. 

terly inaccessible from above or belovr, lia^i.ng an orifice 
probably 40 feet in diameter. Again, upon one of the few 
ra^dnes wliicli break tlie desolate solitude of tbe rocks, a 
■waterfall appears liigL. up among tlie cliffs, some miles 
back from tlie river, presenting, at a distance, tlie beauti- 
ful illusion of a castle, sucli as distinguish tbe Rhine. 
But the culminating scene of all is at Capes Trinity and 
Eternity. Thirty-nine miles from the Saint Lawrence, a 
mountain stream, bursting its way through the granite 
wall to join the Saguenay, has formed a bay, whose two 
banks, north and south, are the most tremendous promon- 
tories on all the river. Approaching from the north, Cajje 
Trinity appears first — a single mountain of granite and 
syenite, 1500 feet high, but so shapen as to seem a giant 
stau'case, the great altitude being equally divided by three 
steps or shoulders, each bearing a profile upon its edge, 
the central one of v»'hich has been pronounced as distinct 
as that at the White Mountains. With a turn in the river 
the scene changes, and one may now behold three giant 
columns, separate at the lofty summit, but joined at the 
base, completing this mighty work so fitly called Cape 
Trinity. Cape Eternity is a vast, rounded mountain, 
1800 feet high, bleak and bare as its neighbor across the 
bay, but even more tremendous in its majesty. Here, in- 
deed, the rock hangs so threatening overhead that one 
shudders and shrinks instinctively, while the actually 
measured depth of the water is one mile and a quarter ; 
and we leave the place fully conscious that the Saguenay 
has no rival along the thoroughfares of fashionable travel. 
Tills conviction must be fixed by the remaining journey, 
lying, as it does, through an almost unbroken, imchang- 
ing, dismal wilderness of granite, without beaches, coves, 
or any creeks but mountain torrents, and barren of bh'ds, 



TIIE DOMIi^IO:^" OF CANADA. 41 

ducks, or squirrels, mth notliing but shoreless, lifeless,, 
perpendicular banks of rock. 

The grandeur of this Saguenay excursion is, of course, 
not in its beauty or life, but in its eternal solemnity ; and 
therefore, nothing but a strong love of contrast can par- 
don our recurring to the villages upon the river. The 
tourist, however, sees Ha ! Ha ! Bay before he realizes the 
scenes through Trhicli he has already passed. He will find 
upon the shore a throng of semi-savage beings, Canadian 
Indians mostly, who are anxious to put a caleclie (called 
calasli) at his service for a silver half-dollar. One hardly 
knows, at first, which object to wonder at most, the driver 
or his vehicle ; but one soon finds the two most intimately 
related. In dry weather, the clay road around Grand Ba- 
sin is full of ruts that can only be called aw^ful ; and the 
eager fellows put their little ponies to such a high rate of 
speed (deeming this course the shortest way to an Ameri- 
can's heart) that the unhappy passenger almost longs for 
the conveyance common to victims of Judge Lynch in the 
South. The calecJie, universally used in this portion of the 
country, is merely a buggy, with a narrow board in front 
of the proper seat for the driver ; but the concern adopted 
by the savages at the basin omits the springs ! and it 
is only necessary to add, to sliow^ the full horror of " the 
situation," that the driver understands no tongue but the 
French Canadian patois, and invariably translates any 
ejaculations on the part of his passenger to mean "Go 
faster !" The victim will then be thankful to know that, 
the patois term for '' stop " or " delay " is arret, (pronounced 
as if it were English.) 

There is nothing to see at the village of Grand Basin, 
2 miles up the bay, more than the general primitiveness 
of civilization — the little thatched cottages, where lamps 



42 THE D0MIN10]S" OF CANADA. 

of the veritable Pompeii pattern are used, tlie two-story 
stoves, tlie birch-bark canoe, in wliicb. every one should 
have a row, the Hudson's Bay agent, and the hotel where 
fashionables spend part of the summer. If possible, the 
tourist should stop at Ha ! Ha ! Bay for some time, and 
make the trip to the upper river with some native by 
birch-bark canoe, a course which very few take, but with- 
out which no man can truly say he has ''doue " the Sa- 
guenay. 

GJiicoutimi is interesting chiefly for its ancient church, 
in which the curious will find a bell on which there is an 
inscription which no one has deciphered. Saint John's Bay 
is merely a lumbering station, notable, however, as the 
point at which the deepest soundings of the river have 
been found. The average depth of the channel is esti- 
mated at 145 fathoms (870 feet.) At Saint John's Bay the 
depth is one and one half miles ! 

Tadoussac is described in the article on the RiVEii 
Saint Lawrence, as is also the sail on that river between 
Tadoussac and Montreal. It remains only to explain to 
the Saguenay tourist that the commotion which he will 
observe where the waters of the Saint Lawrence and the 
Saguenay meet is caused by a ridge across the mouth of 
the latter. The bed of the Saguenay, within this ridge, 
is 840 feet below surface, while the Saint Lawrence bot- 
tom, outside, is but 240 feet — a very remarkable fact. 

THE OTTAWA RIVES. 

The Ottawa (or Grand) River is the largest stream 
wholly within the Dominion, being the chief river tribu- 
tary of the Saint Lawrence. Visitors from [N'ew-Tork 
reach it by Hudson River, Saratoga, Lakes Horicon and 
Champlain, or Saratoga and Whitehall, and Rutland and 



V J* / 



THE DOMINIOI^ OP CANADA. 43 

Burlington Railway to Rouse's Point, whence by rail to 
Montreal. From Boston one may go by the Grand Trunk 
Railway direct from Portland, or by the White Mountain 
route, (see White Mountains,) or by the Connecticut 
Valley, (see Mansfield and Memphremagog.) Most 
travelers, however, will reach Montreal and the Ottawa 
from Ogdensburg and Niagara, and in any case they 
should time their journey so as to be able to leave Mont- 
real for the Ottawa at 7 a.m. by the La Chine Railway. 
Going toward New- York, on their return, we commend 
that travelers take the 4 p.m. train from Bonaventure Sta- 
tion, Montreal, and remain over night at Plattsburg. 
This will enable them to have daylight for Lake Cham- 
plain, and the fading hours, the very choicest for that 
scene, for Horicon. (See sketch of Lake George.) 

The city of Montreal will be found described in its order 
in the article on Lake Ontario and the St. Lawrence. 
The best hotels are Saint Lawrence Hall and Ottawa 
Hotel, $3 in silver, $4.50 in American currency, per day ; 
they are nearly a mile from the railway station. 

It is a singular fact, and rather significant of the rapid 
growth of American cities, (even when in the Canada 
section,) that the great river at whose mouth stands the 
chief commercial city of Her British Majesty's " Dominion" 
on this continent, is but a half-known, mysterious passage 
to a savage wilderness. Excepting among those employes 
of the Hudson Bay Company who must have some know- 
ledge about it, no one can certainly tell the length or the 
source of the Ottawa River. In 1846, lumberers had pene- 
trated as far north as Lake Temiscaming, about 400 miles 
from the mouth. Formerly, also, some 40 to 50 canoes 
used to ascend the river annually with articles of traffic, 
as far (about 300 miles) as the point opposite to Lake Ni- 



44 THE DOMOION OF CANADA. 

pissing, the cliief expansion of tliat series of lakes called 
tlie French Kiver. Here they would go by portages across 
the narrow strip of country from the Ottawa to the lake, 
and descend to Lake Huron, where they traded with the 
coureurs de Bois, who brought furs from the Indian hunt- 
ing-grounds above. And this is all that is certainly 
known of that mighty river, whose width and force and 
general appearance below would imply a total length of 
700 to 800 miles, if not more. An opinion prevails in the 
Dominion that the Ottawa River and the Georgian Bay 
will some time be united by canalling that narrow strip 
already mentioned, and improving the navigation of both 
the Ottawa and French Rivers. A governmental survey 
to this end has been set on foot. 

The entrance of the two great branches of the Ottawa 
into the Saint Lawrence' may be found fully described in 
the article on that tour. One enters at the head of Lake 
Saint Louis, and the other just below Montreal. The re- 
fusal of the waters of the two rivers to mingle, at first, is 
quite noticeable ; the dark, iron-like color of the Ottawa 
contrasting strongly with the fading emerald that has 
come down from Niagara. 

The steamboat Prince of Wales leaves La Chine on the 
arrival of our train from Montreal, and to that we shall trust 
ourselves, although Ottawa navigation is of such an irre- 
gular nature that we shall change vessels frequently before 
we reach our journey's end. We are about starting on a 
journey which possesses certain merits and charms which 
none in " the States" can boast, and some which surpass 
even the sensations felt on either the Saint Lawrence or 
the Saguenay. There is no toiu' in the Dominion which 
affords within itself alone so complete an idea of the pecu- 
liar natural attractions of this wild, half-known, glorious 



THE DOMINIOIST OF CANADA. 45 

country for tourists, as that up tlie Ottawa. The Upper 
Ottawa may also be reached bj railway direct, from Pres- 
cott on the Saint Lawrence to Ottawa City. 

At the entrance of the Ottawa into the Saint Lawrence, 
lies the picturesque village of Sainte Anne, 21 miles from 
Montreal. Here is the old church dear to the "Doyageurs 
of the Great Eiver and its tributaries, as the last of those 
consecrated to their tutelar Saint ; and here, too, we are 
to remember that Tom Moore wrote his Canadian Boat- 
song, a household word to many who may never behold 
" Utawas tide." His journey from Kingston to Montreal 
occupied five days — hardly conducive, one would imagine, 
to the spirit of his gentle words. But, if we do hurry by 
more rapidly, we do not gain that familiarity with the 
waters which we want to carry away with us. 

There is a massive bridge — to recall ourselves from the 
unpractical and poetic — crossing the river here, supported 
on 16 stone piers, for the central section of the Gfrand 
Trunk Railway. Here also are locks for the vessels which 
must avoid the shallow rapids ; and to this vicinity, too, 
the yacht clubs of the Canadian metropolitans delight to 
come. 

Two miles below Sainte Anne, at the western extremity 
of the Island of Montreal, are ruins of three old towers 
built in the long-past days of war. The river now ex- 
pands, and takes the name of Lake of the Two Mountains, 
a title beautiful and unfamiliar enough to justify poor Tho- 
reau's carping at the stolidity which renders the interna- 
tional line most perceptible by our silly names compared 
with Canadian allusions and epithets. The hilly charac- 
ter of the scenery here, clothed to the water's edge with 
the richest verdure, presents more the appearance of an 
inland lake than of the banks of a river. The higher of 



46 THE DOMINION OF CAN^ADA. 

tlie " Two Mountains" is called Calvary, and is held sacred 
*by the Canadians and the remnant of Indian tribes, (Iro- 
quois, Algonquins, and Nipissings,) living at its base. 
Near the lake, on the north-east, are three towns cele- 
brated (particularly Saint Eustache) in the rebellion of 
1837, which we meet so often in our Canadian travels. 
Saint Eustache was taken and burned by the loyalists. 
Saint Benoit and Saint Scholastique profited by the ex- 
ample, and surrendered. The insurrection terminated 
here and thus for Lower Canada. 

Point Fortune, 27 miles from Sainte Anne, is the diverg- 
ing point of demarkation between the Provinces of Ontario 
and Quebec, the Ottawa River being from here upward 
the natural boundary. Up the North River, here, is Saint 
Andrevv^'s village, 2 miles, and La Chute, 9 miles. 

At Carillon {" Chime of Bells," a name w^iich seems to 
have been brought from Lake Champlain, it being the old 
name of Fort Ticonderoga) a canal ends w^hich begins at 
Grenville, 12 miles distant. This is necessitated by the 
rapids, the Carillon, the Chute a Blondeau, and the Long 
Sault of the Ottawa. At this point the first change oc- 
curs, tourists being obliged to leave the boat for a train 
which conveys them through a pretty forest-country to 
Grenville. Opposite this village, at the head of the Long 
Sault Rapids, is Haw^kesburg, the first of the great lumber 
establishments to which the river owes its development. 
These mills are chiefly supplied from the rivers Gatineau 
and Rouge. The lumberers are a race of men peculiar to 
the Canadas, Maine, and New-Brunswick. Their work 
begins in the depth of winter, in the backwoods, where 
they fell the huge red and white pines. Then these logs 
are drawn out of the snow by oxen and piled on or near 
the sides of the frozen rivers, till spring gives them way ; 



1 ^ 



THE DOMINION OF CANADA. 47 

then what a mass of lumber fills all the streams in May ! 
Here commences the most dangerous work ; the logs, 
loosely joined together in huge, imcouth rafts, are set 
adrift, and the lumberer guides them, as he best may, 
with his uncouth oars and i^oles, down the rapids and cur- 
rents, swollen and fierce with the loosened snows. As 
long as the logs hold together, all is well ; but, hurried 
and tumbled over rapids, as they are, they often break up, 
and then, rolling in fierce confusion the one over the other, 
and smashing down from rock to rock, till they reach 
some clear opening in the river, they keep the lives of 
their owners in continual imminent danger. When thus 
broken up, they often get lodged and wedged together on 
the brow of some rapid, stopping miles of their following 
companions. Then they must be liberated — a preemi- 
nently dangerous task ; for when once the logs which bar 
the passage are half cut through, the might of the pres- 
sure behind breaks them like straws, and some ten thou- 
sand trunks of trees come plunging down with a rush and 
confusion that but too often renders all the coolness and 
activity of those who are trying to escape the avalanche 
of no avail. 

Pursuing our journey up the river from Gfrenville by 
steamboat again, we find ourselves in a densely- wooded 
country, in many places as primitive as when the Jesuit 
missionaries first sailed through it. The current of the 
river is gentle, and the scenery diversified by numerous 
islands, the foliage of whose trees seems almost to touch 
the water, and by glimpses of infant settlements on the 
skirts of the forest and the margin of the stream. 

L'Original is a small town, 6 miles above Grenville, on 
the Ontario side ; 9 miles distant are the Caledonia or 
Plantagenet Springs. (A separate sketch is devoted to 



48 THE DOMINION OF CANADA. 

tliem.) Thurso is a large lumber village further up, and 
Buckingliam, 5 miles up the Riviere du Lievre, boasts two 
interesting falls near by. The population is about 2000 ; 
hotel, McKnight's. The Lower Fall is about 70 feet high, 
with a beautiful, closely hemmed-in basin of some extent. 
The Upper Fall is 25 miles distant from the village, ap- 
proachable, if you choose to endure a bad road, by vehicle, 
or better, by canoe. It is 40 feet high, and of a conside- 
rable inclination, like Montmorenci. Still further on, 
White Fish Lake is a great resort for fishermen, and high 
carnival is held there in the fall season. A remarkable 
cave called the Church, strewn with fine white sand, af- 
fords a fine (and romantic) camping-place. There is great 
mineral wealth (not gold, miser !) about here also. 

The largest and most important tributary of the Otta- 
wa, the River Gatineau, empties into it 1 mile below 
the national capital. It is 350 miles long, and has much 
attractive scenery. The Fanner's Rapids and Falls are 7 
miles up, and for the next 3| miles are four or five rapids 
and cascades ; then the Lake Saint Mary's, Pemachunga, 
and Thirty-one-miles-long Lake, are fine fishing places in 
the wilderness, 40 miles up. 

Ottawa City is now a very important city on this conti- 
nent, being the capital of the United Provinces, (if they are 
united ; the disaffection in the Eastern Provinces still fur- 
nishes newspaper scandal,) namely, Ontario, (formerly Up- 
per Canada, or Canada West,) Quebec, (formerly Lower Ca- 
nada,) !N'ew-Bruns\vick, Prince Edward's Island, and Nova 
Scotia. The consolidation of these Provinces, under the 
natk>nal name of " Dominion of Canada," was concluded 
last year, and Lord Monck inaugurated as Governor-Gene- 
ral on the first " Dominion Day," July 1st, 1867. 

The city of Ottawa was laid out by the royal engineers 



*f'7 



THE DOMINION OF CANADA. 49 

under Colonel By's command, in 1823, and named for Mm 
By town. It is 126 miles from Montreal and 54 from Pres- 
cott. There are tliree sections of tlie city : Lower Town, 
(east,) Upper Town, (nortli-west,) and Central Town, 
(west ;) but all on the south-west side of the Ottawa, and 
consequently in the Province of Ontario. On Barrack 
Hill, in many respects a counterpart of the citadel of Que- 
bec, are situated the Parliament and departmental build- 
ings in full view of the Chaudiere. These are all in the 
Italian-Gothic style, and are built of a kind of stone found 
in the vicinity. There is connected with the legislative 
halls a library capable of containing 300,000 volumes. 
Among the other principal buildings are the Roman 
Catholic church, one of the handsomest in the Dominion ; 
the Queen's Printing-House, etc. The city is the empori- 
I um of the Canadian staple, lumber. It is connected with 
Lake Ontario by the Rideau Canal from Kingston, 95 
I miles. 

The Chaudiere (" Caldron ") Falls, the second in import- 
ance exclusively in the Dominion, are at the western extre- 
mity of the city. _ They are 40 feet high, 200 and more wide, 
and the sounding-line has not found bottom at 300 feet. 
Immediately below the Falls, a fine suspension-bridge 
connects the two Provinces and affords a fine view of the 
i chasm. At the north-east end of the city are two other 
falls, over which the waters of the Rideau River po\ir into 
the Ottawa, and although inferior to the Chaudiere in 
sublimity and grandeur, they are not without many at- 
tractions. Toward Chelsea, in the north-west, is a range 
of hills which the visitor will notice, one especially, con 
spicuous for its superior altitude and naked summit. This 
/ is Bald Mountain. 

The great timber-slides afford the chief sensation to 



50 THE DOMIKEO]^ OF CA:N'ADA. 

daring tourists at Ottawa City. When a quantity of lum- 
ber is "brougiit down to the Falls, a special contrivance, 
called a '' slide" or " short," is necessary to get it past them. 
A part of the river is Hammed off and turned into a broad, 
wide channel of timber. Down this most rapid of all 
rapids in America the waters of the river rush at terrific 
speed. The head of the slide is placed some 300 yards 
above the Falls, and terminates after a run of three quarters 
of a mile, in the still waters of the river below. As, how- 
ever, a raft on such a steep incline, and hurried along by 
such a mass of water, would attain a speed which would 
destroy itself and all upon it, the fall of the shoot is 
broken at intervals by straight runs, along which it glides 
at comparatively reduced speed until the force of the next 
pitch again accelerates it. Some of these runs terminate 
with a perpendicular drop of some 4 or 5 feet, over which 
the raft goes headlong, and wallows in the boiling water 
beneath, till the current again gets the mastery. More 
than 20,000,000 cubic feet of timber come down these 
shoots each year. The rafts are generally made of from 
15 to 20 trees, with two transverse ones to secure them at 
each end, and a kind of raised bridge for the lumberers to 
stand upon, who mthout such aid would be washed off it. 
To go down the Rapids of the Saint Lawrence is compara- 
tively nothing ; but to go down the rapids of a tin;iber 
shoot, to keep pace with the flying waters, and to see 
them hissing and rushimg up over the raft beneath your 
feet — this is the most exhilarating adventure in all the re- 
pertoire of American travel. We recommend all travelers, 
desirous of novelty, by all means to make one of these 
trips. It may be easily done by making application to any 
of the large lumbering establishments, with a small finan- 
ial arrangement with the wyageurs your companions. 



THE DOMINION OF CANADA. 51 

Above Ottawa, the traveler may proceed by carriage or 
by stage, 9 miles, to the village of Aylmer, and thence by 
steamer to the Chats Falls ; thence by railway 2 miles ; 
then again by steamer 20 miles, to the Portage du Fort ; 
now, wagons for a while, and then again a steamer to 
Pembroke, 70 miles from Ottawa, and yet another thence 
40 miles, to Deux Joachims. Beyond this, the canoe will 
be the tourist's only resource. Before reaching Aylmer, 
we have the Little Chaudiere Fall, 13 feet, the Remoux 
Rapid, 2 miles above, and the De Cheine Rapids, opposite 
the village of Britannia, 4| miles further. Aylmer itself 
is on the Lac de Cheine, an expansion of the river, 26 
miles long, navigable for the largest vessels. The Chats 
Portage (or Chats Falls) are a series of cascades about 20 
feet high, 3 miles long, surrounded by scenery much like 
that at the Thousand Isles. Just above these rapids is the 
magnificent Lac des Chats, on the river, 20 miles long and 
from 1 to 3 ^\ude. If the tourist be interested in royalty, 
he may see an oak at Arnprior here, (the northern termi- 
nus of the Prescott and Ottawa Railway, where the 
River Madaw'nska comes down,) which the Prince of Wales 
planted on his Ottawa trip in 1859. The scenery about 
Portage du Fort Rapids, beyond, is charming in every 
respect ; one feature not hitherto met with, is the white 
marble banks of the Ottawa, extending for some distance. 
Deux Joachims, 110 miles above Ottawa City, is at the ex- 
treme limit of steamboat navigation at present. It is, 
however, but 50 miles from the mouth of the Lake Mata- 
wan, the connecting stream between the Ottawa River and 
Lake Xipissing, through which the proposed Ottawa and 
Lake Huron navigation is expected to run. If that scheme 
shall ever come to completion, the tourist may include 
Superior City, Ottawa City, and Quebec, on one tour. 



52 THE Do:5j:i]sriON of Canada. 

The route between Pembroke and Deux JoacLims, 40 
miles, passes tbrougli the Upper and Lower Allumette 
Lakes, with all their soft and romantic beauties, and 
through the stern and gloomy grandeur of the Deep 
River, whose mountains, 600 feet in height, rise from the 
water's edge, while their bases are as far beneath its 
surface. Beyond Deux Joachims is the utter wilderness, 
which we shall not seek to penetrate. There are lakes, 
as ever, fishing, and, doubtless, some very unpleasant 
hunting, in this neglected country ; but until " the hardy 
sons of the forest" have been succeeded by the ladies and 
gentlemen of civilized climates and regions, we must leave 
imsolved the problem of the source of the Ottawa. 

QUEBEC. 

" Quebec is the most notable and curious city in Ameri- 
ca," writes a recent London correspondent; and if history 
does not entirely justify the first part of the assertion, a 
visit most abundantly proves the latter. Curious it cer- 
tainly is, and to strangers who find their way into her 
Majesty's new Dominion during the summer months, 
this is doubtless its chief attraction. " Quaint," " queer," 
yet never beautiful, a day suffices to do Quebec ; and curi- 
osity and the tourist,' both satisfied, generally depart to- 
gether. 

The first ^iew of the city is striking. That tremendous 
precipice, the solid wall, and its surmounting line of grim 
fifty-six pounders, have ever been remarkable, and the odd 
and stolid buildings of a thousand different shapes thickh' 
scattered round the base, and scaling and overgrowing the 
high, rocky promontory, present from the river a scene of 
novelty bordering on the grotesque. It reaches under, 
up the side, and all over the hill, like moss on a decaying 



V6/ 

THE DOMINIO]^" OF CANADA. "53 

stump ; and wlien tlie sun sliines, tlie Trhole flashes and 
glitters like some fabled city not paved, but roofed witli 
silver and gold. The fact is, in the early davs, tin or met- 
al being cheaper or more convenient than slate, nearly all 
the roofs were covered with it, and for some reason it does 
not seem to tarnish or corrode in that climate. 

The Streets. — On entering the city itself, the disap- 
pointment of the traveler commences. The first thing on 
landing is, of course, to scale the heights, as the lower town 
is now given up to heavy business and commercial ware- 
houses. It is like the ascent of Mount Washington — a 
tortuous, twisted path, yet through the very heart of the 
city nevertheless. In many places the stones of the pre- 
cipice have been removed to make way for houses ; queer 
old places they are — ill built, and forming steep, narrow, 
and badly paved streets. A difficult causeway winds under 
a monstrous arch into the upper portion of the city. 
Once inside the walls, the queerness increases. Boston has 
been described to be as crooked as ten acres of rams' horns ; 
but if Doesticks should dip his pen into the streets of 
Quebec, the crookedest simile would prove a failure. 
There is no other city on this continent like it. Lanes, 
alleys, gulfs, and ditches, isosceles triangles, and parallello- 
pipedons, a lunatic dream of Utopia, is a rational plan in 
comparison. Certainly, poor old Jacques Cartier had no 
vision of Quebec before his eyes when his prow turned up 
the Saint Lawrence, or he would have set sail for Terra 
del Fuego sooner than enter. 

Places of Interest. — Little slips of paper containing 
a formidable list of these are scattered about the hotels. 
Falls, monuments, buildings, churches, and drives, all of 
undoubted interest — to the citizens themselves ; but rather 
more, by seven eighths, than the general traveler will care 



54 THE DOMIXIOX OF C AX AD A. 

to visit. The Falls of Montmorenci, a drive of 9 miles, tlie 
Citadel and Wolfe's Monument, are tlie leading attractions. 
It is not difficult to find tliese — coacli and hack-drivers, 
visible in overpowering numbers, await an opportunity to 
pounce upon the unwary who may step out of doors, and 
forty whips are leveled at his breast if he shows the slight- 
est indication of timidity. The four hundred coaches 
about the city, answering in effect to the cabs of Paris, are 
very convenient for the sight-seer of moderate means, snug 
and comfortable, and the regular charge is only fifty cents 
in gold per hour ; the drivers understand the theory of 
making hay by sunshine, however, and very readily ask a 
dollar and upward of strangers, particularly if they ap- 
pear to hail from the United States. 

Wolfe's Moxu^iext is just back of the town, upon the 
illustrious Plains of Abraham. We go out from the walls, 
pass the toll-gate, turn off the road a short distance past 
one or two wretched huts, and in a rolling meadow just 
before us stands the clearly chiseled column — 

here died 

Wolfe, 
viCTOKiors ! 

The Citadel is well worthy a visit. Situated upon the 
highest point of the promontory, and holding in range the 
entire to^vn and a wide sweep of the river both above and 
below, it is alike commanding and unapproachable. It is 
surrounded on every side by difficult glissades, and be- 
tween its double walls the fearful ditch, every foot of which 
is exposed to a raking fire from within — is large enough 
and terrible enough to be the veritable last ditch indeed — 
and the impregnable chain-gates, bristling port-holes, un- 
der-ground passages, connecting towers, and the immense 



^43 

THE DOMINION OF CANADA. 55 

wall stretching each way like two gigantic arms clasping 
the city in its embrace, are enough fairly to confound a deni- 
zen of Brother Jonathan's peaceful corporations ; and one 
can very readily believe the gentlemanly sergeant who in- 
forms us that Quebec can only be taken by starvation — and 
that the fortress holds provision sufficient for seven years. 

The Falls of Montmorenci are ever the same combina- 
tion of majesty and beauty — " admission twenty-five cents," 
as a small board tells us at the entrance to a field near by, 
from which the only good view can be obtained. The old 
piers still stand above, and the guide points out the very 
place where stood the boy, the woman, and the cart, when 
the frail bridge gave way and plunged them into the 
whirling abyss. 

The French Cathedral near the market is quite a promi- 
nent object — a high and mighty pile — whose lofty galle- 
ries are like attics, affording from the front a bird's-eye 
view of the interior, and back under the rafters both room 
and distance from the voices of the worshipers for medi- 
tation and quiet. 

About two thirds of the residents of Quebec are descen- 
dants of the old French occupants, and the element is plain- 
ly observable in the churches, newspapers, houses, and in 
the streets ; the latter are all named in French as well as 
in English, and N'appliquez point cVafflches ! adorns the 
fence just above the sententious " Stick no bills !" Al- 
though, so extensive, the French portion is not the ruling 
element, being composed mostly of the lower class, and in 
fact, who know much less of France beyond the language 
than the Yankee school-boy. They have little of the viva- 
city and volubility of their cousins over the water, and 
seem to have lost that suaviter in modo, without which it 
is hardly possible to conceive a genuine Frenchman. The 



56 THE DOMINION OF CANADA. 

Terrace — a wide platform overlooking tlie river — ^is a fa- 
vorite promenade for tliem on Sunday afternoons. 

Not far from tlie Terrace, and near the centre, an odd 
sort of cottage is pointed out as the oldest building in the 
city — the one where Montcalm held his first councils of 
war. It is now a barber-shop, and you may shave for a 
fip and pick up any amount of historical on dits gratis. 
Just opposite stands the Saint Louis Hotel, large and flat, 
very like the National in Washington, the only one of note, 
and this only open during the warm season. The guests 
of the Saint Louis are perhaps the most transient of any in 
the country. Curiosity brings large numbers to Quebec 
during the summer months, and scores of trunks are 
brought up in the morning from the Montreal boat, and 
carefully conveyed to the different 3rooms, as though the 
owner intended taking permanent quarters ; but somehow 
they all manage to come down in time for the evening 
train, and the next day tells the same story. The amount 
of travel in Canada from the States is increasing very 
rapidly. 
/ The daily steamboats between Quebec and Montreal are 
really fine, and compare favorably vnXh. some of our North 
River crafts ; they are manned mostly by Frenchmen who 
never saw France, and have French cooks, but not French 
cooking. The time between the two cities is about twelve 
hours. 

THE TOUE IK THE EASTERN PSOVINCES. 

Having given so great a space to the popular and invit- 
ing tour of the Saint Lawrence, it would be unjust to the 
tourist should we leave unmentioned the great claims of 
these more eastern Pro^-inces — Nova Scotia, New-Bruns- 
wick, and Prince Edward's Island — which are now legally 



THE DOMINION OF CANADA. 57 

termed " The Dominion of Canada," nnder tlie governor- 
generalship of Lord Monck, at Ottawa, the federal capital. 

The attentive observer of the advance of American civil- 
ization is well aware that, with the completion of railways 
and telegraph lines the opening of new water communica- 
tions has made easy of access a new field for the summer 
travel — a fxold full of interest, romance, and pleasure — in 
the land of the blue noses, Acadia, mentioned by Longfel- 
low, is his poem Evangeline, a tale of Acadia, (Nova Sco- 
tia.) 

Wolfville, the Grand Pre Basin of Mines, the head waters 
of the Bay of Fundy, where the tide rises more than 50 
feet, is a place to which a visit the coming season will pay 
the tourist, will invigorate and recuperate the invalid. 

The scenery, also, on the river Saint John is equal to 
any in the world. There is the route from Moncton, on 
the European and North-American Railway, across the 
Westchester Mountain ma Dorchester, Amherst, West- 
chester, the Acadia Iron- Works, through Londonderry to 
Truro, Nova Scotia, en route by rail to Halifax. On this 
route the view to be seen at Sackville and Amherst, N. S., 
of the reclaimed lands from the Bay of Fundy waters, and 
the view from Westchester Mountain, (at Purdy's,) of the 
Gulf of Saint Lawrence and Prince Edward's Island, em- 
bracing a scope of 60 miles of landscape, with the Cascade 
Waterfall on the mountain at the Acadia Iron- Works, are 
worth a trip of thousands of miles. The following is a list 
of the routes for this tour the coming summer : 

To reach Nova Scotia, (where treasure upon treasure lies 
hidden, whose gold-fields will soon be developed and prove 
as rich as California,) there is the Grand Trunk Railway 
to Quebec, from Portland, Maine. From Quebec the Gulf 
Line will run A No. 1 first-class ocean-going steamships 



58 THE DOMINION OF CANADA. 

ma tlie waters of the Kiver and Gulf of Saint Lawrence to 
Sliediac, Charlottetown, and Pictou. At Sliediac connect 
(for the city of Saint John, N. B.) with the European and 
North- American Jlailway. Moncton is on this road 19 
miles from Shediac. At Moncton, the Messrs. King are 
prepared to entertain you in style, and by them you will 
be transferred on over the finest road in this country via 
the Westchester Mountain route. At Pictou, connection 
is made with the Nova Scotia Railway, 113 miles across 
Nova Scotia, to Halifax. From Halifax by railway to 
Windsor, N. S., 45 miles. At Windsor there is a first- 
class hotel, whose proprietor will transport you in splendid 
coaches to Wolfville, Grand Pre, 12 miles. 

From Boston or Portland, Saint John, the Saint John 
River, and the Bay of Fundy are to be reached by the 
splendid steamers of the International Line, three times a 
week, ma Eastport, Maine, where the tourist can make 
connection with a steamer up the Saint Croix River for 
Saint Andrew, N. B., at which place take railway for Rich- 
mond and Houlton, connecting with the steamers on the 
upper Saint John. Descending the river, stop off at Frede- 
rickton, and then proceed to Saint John. This route avoids 
the doubling up and down the river. 

At Saint John, New-Brunswick, (hotel, the Stubbs 
House,) you have the European and North- American Rail- 
way, (the best laid road in this country,) for Moncton and 
Shediac as before stated ; or there is the Bay of Fundy route 
per A No. 1 steamer Empress (making connection with 
the steamers from Portland) for Windsor, and, as we have 
started for the Grand Pre, for Wolfville and Basin Mines ; 
or for Halifax, with its splendid walks and drives, its fresh 
water, and its North Arm, mth its beautiful little Dart- 
mouth on the opposite shore ; with the finest harbor in the 



THE DOMINION OF CANADA. 59 

world, one capable of holding all the fleets of tlie combin- 
ed na^des of the world, Bedford Basin, perfectly land- 
locked — a drive 12 miles around, wliicb will amply re- 
pay the tourist. Halifax is full of interest, a cheap place 
to live in, and we can conscientiously recommend to the 
tourist the Hahfax Hotel, now opened in style and replete 
with comfort. 

We think this sketch of a new summer route describes 
one that our readers will be delighted with. Just think 
of it after visiting the White Mountains and Quebec, then 
for a sail down the Saint Lawrence, stopping off at Char- 
lottetown. Prince Edward's Island, thence across, some four 
hours, to Shediac, and thence to Moncton, where, if you de- 
sire it, the hotel proprietor, Mr. King, will send you across 
the Cobequid Mountains, as before stated, to rusticate a 
few days with mine hosts of the Weldon Hotel, Dorchester, 
and the Cumberland House at Amherst. 

HALIFAX, NOVA SCOTIA. 

Nova Scotia, a country of 13,000,000 acres, and contain- 
ing a population of 370,000 persons, looks upon Halifax — 
the great capital, metropolis, head and seat of government, 
and residence of His Excellency, Lieutenant-General Sir 
William Fenwick Williams, of Kars, Baronet, Knight 
Commander of the Most Honorable Order of the Bath, Grand 
Officer Legion d'Honneur, First Class of the Turkish Or- 
der of Mediji, Lieutenant-Governor and Commander-in- 
Chief in and over the Province of Nova Scotia and its de- 
pendencies — as a place of immense importance. There are 
facts to support this belief. It has the best harbor in 
America, a tremendous old crowning citadel garrisoned 
with 4000 of Her Majesty's red-coats, and big guns enough 
to blow the whole town and shipping up ; and it has been 



60 THE DOMTXrOX OF CAIS-ADA. 

frequently remarked tliat, with, tlie addition of a few 
hundred live Yankees, it would soon liave a first-class hotel, 
half a dozen railway depots, twenty cotton factories, and an 
unlimited competition in sewing-machines and piano-fortes. 

The following bird's eye view by a live Yankee gives a 
capital idea of Halifax : 

" Africa, Aug. 5th, 18— ; 4 to 8 r.^i. at Halifax ; fine har- 
bor ; rugged coast ; location high ; climate cold ; fogs. 
Streets narrow. Muddy. Buildings — wood, low, yellow. 
Parks, 6 ; hotels, 21 ; newspapers, 10 ; clubs, 3 ; currency, 
mixed $ £ ; people slow ; society ditto ; women tall. Liv- 
ing — fish, bacon. The Lakes — Downs — The Citadel." 

The leaf was countersigned with the word dead, a very 
forcible expression for quiet and repose, said to be appro- 
priate in the connection, though confederation is expected 
to work miracles. 

The Landing — Custo:m-House. — The arrival of a Cu- 
nard steamer is an event in the city, and looked forward to 
with great interest. She brings passengers, merchandise, 
express, mails, and two weeks of news, and dailies from 
" the States." We may expect quite a gathering of impa- 
tient citizens at the landing, dozens of misses on hand to 
see who's come ; scores of hackmen, baggage and express 
wagons, carmen, and gamins in a state of internal fomenta- 
tion after the papers, all of which can be seen any day at 
almost all of our inland towns, Vv^here the steamboat and 
train are daily institutions. Imagine the confusion in 
prospect when the institution is only fortnightly ! 

There is, however, no occasion for alarm; just three 
men — and no more — appear peacefully smoking as we ap- 
proach the dock ; and after sundry delays, receiving our 
cable, the ship is made fast, a plank thrown, and the pas- 
sengers walk down the long, dreary pier into the street in 



THE DOMINIOX OF CAXADA. 61 

search, of conveyances. Not a very entliusiastic reception, 
certainly. 

A solitary buggy finally appears, wliicli takes tlie mail. 
Tlie papers — two weeks of dailies, mind you, and tlie illus- 
trated weeklies — are handed into a shed by the sliip's crew, 
where they lie for an hour or more mthout molestation. 
The trunks are also trundled into a shed for examination. 
So much for the landing. 

It is something singular with what a degree of suspicion 
Her Majesty's Lower Provincials regard their neighbors 
from the " States." Wooden nutmegs and 'cuteness are 
looked upon by them as our regular stock in trade ; and 
the story of the ship laden with wooden hams which once 

j landed in this port is as green in their memory as though 

I of yesterday's occurrence. 

You get an inkling of this feeling in the baggage-search- 
ing. Several former residents of the Province, returning 
after an absence, were suffered to pass their trunks without 
even opening, while that of ourself was most remorselessly 
ransacked, possibly with the intent of making up by 
thoroughness what was lacking in rapidity. Even his 
Sunday coat and best boots received a crusJiing scrutiny, 
to ascertain positively that cargoes of tobacco, beeswax, and 
chipped logwood were not concealed about them. Satis- 
fied at last, a carriage was obtained through the agency of 
a small boy, and he was passed. 

i Coming down from the wharf, a good opportunity is of- 
fered of \dewing the buildings, of the larger portion of 
which our hotel is a fair specimen — a heavy wood, low, 
sliingled on the sides as well as the top, and painted that 
color ! — how shall we describe it ? Imagine a painter, in 
a fit of color-ic insanity, combining a mixture of equal pro- 
portions of the semi-neutrals, yellow ochre and coal-dust, 



62 THE DOMINIOjS" OF CANADA. 

and conceive the effect. Nearly tlie whole city wears this 
odd hue — " mouse " tint some call it — '' subdued mouse" 
undoubtedly, though we think enraged rat would be quite 
as appropriate. 

Much of the business portion of the city is built of brick 
and stone, as are the public buildings, some of which are 
fine; but the houses, to a unit, are Nova Scotia oak and 
spruce — low, heavy, very many shingled all over, and all 
on the " mouse," giving the town certainly a unique ap- 
pearance. 

The Streets are narrow. They are long in one direc- 
tion like those of New- York. They are almost as dirty. 
They are not as crowded. In walking fifty rods on Gran- 
ville street, the leading thoroughfare, at 5 P.M., July 4th, it 
being wet and rainy, we met and passed two persons, a 
single vehicle being visible in the distance. Had the 
weather been pleasant, the number might have been dou- 
bled or tripled. Coming from New- York or Boston, it 
seems like a perpetual Sabbath. A crowd is a thing un- 
mentioned in the papers ; no omnibuses rattle over the 
pavements, and, O happy people ! hand-organs are un- 
known. A horse-railroad extends through on a parallel 
with the coast, and now and then a car is seen containing 
one or two passengers ; fare, seven cents in gold. 

Business is said to partake of the gen-eral stagnation of 
the States. In a shopping excursion, possibly one might 
be reasonably excused from fancying it had taken the 
whole of it. Old-fashioned gold and silver are the general 
currency — British sovereigns, half-crowns, and shillings— 
though counted by dollars, a sovereign representing five. 

N. B. — In buying sovereigns in Wall street to take 
abroad, they are valued at $5.02 American gold; other- 
wise, at $4.85, as usual. 



^ // 



THE DOMIISilON OF CANADA. 63 

Nearly all merchandise comes direct from England. Dry- 
goods are cheap. Alcohol is only thirty-five cents a gal- 
lon. Paper conies from Belgium. Books, about equally 
from London and the United States. Ices, chocolate, cara- 
mel, and nougat are out of marhet, as Maillard and Bigot 
do not advertise in the Halifax Herald. That the living is 
high, however, we give one (to-day's) dinner-bill xerl^atim, 
same being written on a half-sheet of commercial note : 

" Halifax Hotel. — Bill of Fare : Soup. Fish. — Salmon, 
Cod, Herring, Olivers. Potatoes. Roast. — Beef, Pork. 
Ei^TREES. — Eggs, Bacon, and Greens. Potatoes. Pas- 
try. — Pudding." 

We have never tasted as fine fish or better bacon. We 
have strawberries, too, at tea, so small you might put a 
hundred in your mouth and whistle almost any air with 
tolerable accuracy, but of delicious flavor. 

The water, coming from inland lakes, is said to be very 
pure and soft. From our own experience we should say it 
held in solution definite j)roportions of assafoetida and sal 
epsom. Its effect as a beverage is not happy. Even the 
" Haligonians" (regular appellation of citizens) themselves 
do not favor it. The best of English ale and liquors are 
plenty and cheap. 

The People. — Standing a sort of connecting link be- 
tween Great Britain and the United States, it would be sup- 
posed natural that the inhabitants should partake, to a cer- 
tain extent, of the characteristics of each nation ; but the 
actual condition exhibits a great deal of Her Majesty and 
very little of Uncle Sam. 

There is a sturdy steadiness about the people very un- 
like the pert briskness and wide-awake activity of Uncle 
Sam's boys. 

They are slow to anger, or to any thing else ; largely cau- 



64 THE DOMINION OF CANADA. 

tions, distrustful of strangers, and not particularly given to 
rapid or brilliant conversation. 

It takes time, and considerable of it, to inculcate an 
idea witb the masses ; and wlien once engrafted, it never 
changes or goes out. 

They don't catch at novelties with avidity. A genuine 
invention, we believe, was never known as originating in the 
Province, and mowing-machines and soothing-syrup are 
hardly appreciated. 

The Sights. — " The Lakes," a most romantic little chain 
of trout-ponds, some distance up country ; " The Gold 
Mines," " Downs," a noun in the possessive, referring to 
the estate of Mr. A. Downs, naturalist, ornithologist, and 
" genius," whose grounds present a most lively diversity of 
birds, beasts, and reptiles, in a state of natural preservation. 
He has caged apes, boxed otters, penned gazelles, house 
parrots, penned bears, stuffed alligators, and the Ameri-can 
eagle, alive and screaming, covered with a high netting to 
prevent a return to " home, sweet home" — a perfect Bar- 
num's out of doors, and the resort of the Haligonian public 
and the world generally, who are politely requested "not 
to tease the bear." 

" The Citadel," a roomy fortress occupying the top of a 
vast hill, whose base forms the inner circle of a crescent, 
which the city in shape very nearly resembles, the outer 
circle of the crescent being represented by the shore of the 
beautiful harbor. 

One thousand of the British regular infantry are quar- 
tered there at present. Three regiments are also in bar- 
racks at the upper end of the town. 

Through the kindness of Hon. Mr. Jackson, United 
States Consul, we were permitted to view the interior. No 
foreigners are allowed to take notes. 



H7^ 

THE DOMINION OF CANADA. 65 

That Halifax is attracting mucli more attention than for- 
merly, is seen by the not unfrequent arrival of ISTew-Tork- 
ers, either for curiosity or pleasure. 

SAINT JOHN'S, NEW-BKUNSWIGK. 

Drive down to Commercial Wharf in Boston very early 
some of these hot July mornings ; take one of the Interna- 
tional Company's first-class steamers and a breezy sea voy- 
age along the bleak coast of Maine. Portland, with her 
poor, scarred visage in\TLtes your attention ; her fair formed 
harbor, rounded by graceful, grassy islands, cool and tran- 
quil, is a refresliing prospect. Further on, ponderous At- 
lantic on the right, and at the left a coast sublime in its 
bleakness and barren rocky chaos. Eastport, the full re- 
alization of '' away down east," terminus of the prohibitory 
law and brown bread. St. John's, commencement of the 
new Dominion, and the only city in New-Brunswick. A 
little more alive than old-fashioned, sea-beaten Halifax, a 
little less a modern city than any other west of the Bay of 
Fundy — a lumbering Saint John in both the literal and 
figurative. Walk up the hill from the landing and take a 
look about. The " thoroughly Hinglish hideas " impress a 
stranger at once. Prince William, King, Queen, Duke, St. 
George and Princes streets are the royal avenues you pass. 
" London House," "Victoria Store," etc., attract the eye. 

The city, built in the acute angle formed by the river 
and the bay, lies upon a hill slope, from the top of which 
the entire town lies at your feet. Miles of the broad river, 
too. Partridge Island, Suspension Bridge, and the Bay of 
Fundy, noted from time immemorial for bold scenery, and 
its liigh, sudden tides, 25, 40, and GO feet against the 
steep and precipitous shores, whose rocky headlands 
succeed each other with picturesque effect. 



66 THE DOMi:?TIO>T OF CANADA. 

Wliat billions of fisL. tliere are in tliat bay, if you could 
only count them : Forty thousand salmon, seventeen 
thousand barrels of shad — cod, pollack, hake, haddock, 
halibut, herring, gaspererux, lobsters, and " small fry " in- 
numerable, taken every year, and. just as many left. Two 
hundred boats and five thousand men constantly employed, 
and the produce divided between Europe and America. 
Verily, if you want " to be pleased and eat a fish," as Wal- 
ton hath it, this is the place to visit. Bring along an I. E. 
overcoat with you, and an umbrella, at any price ; ten to 
one you'll land in a rain-storm, and the fog is dense enough 
to dip almost any morning. Not much in the fast and 
fashionable line, this isn't. Novelty is the leading attrac- 
tion; fogs, fishes, and militia red coats making quite a 
change to the Saratoga programme. There is a park up 
the hill, at the head of the principal 'street — called King 
Square. It has a huge gateway like the entrance to our 
Greenwood, done in white oak plank. Grreenwood lies be- 
hind it, too, or at least a cemetery curious and ancient, the 
burial-place of the early settlers, but now made a pleasure 
park by the citizens. Winding walks and rustic S3at3 
and gay flowers, and, over all, grave-stones ! No signs 
or appearance of mound or grave left, but simply the 
brown slabs rising out of the same. Singular ornaments 
for a pleasure-ground! Fancy Central Park dotted all 
over with brown tomb-stones, sticking in the turf in all 
directions and at all angles. " Blossom and decay " in- 
deed ! Here and there, where the newer walks have been 
cut, they stand like hitching-posts against the graveled 
edge, and occasionally an old sepulchre is seen transform- 
ed into a broad seat for the benefit of the lively prome- 
naders. 

Antiquated inscriptions these stones bear — quaint records 



THE DOMIlSriON OF CAN^ADA. 67 

of tlie century past. Let us read a few of tliem. One 
standing near the entrance is quite prominent : 

" Sacred to tlie memory of Mary Edward, spouse of Tho- 
m.as Majoribanks, wlio departed this life the 29th of Au- 
gust, 1788, aged 50 years, sincerely regretted by all who 
knew her. This stone was erected by her surviving part- 
ner, who feels and deplores her irreparable loss." 

Another near the north-east corner, very much worn and 
defaced by time and weather : 

" In memory of Ann Peel, wife of Humphrey Peel, who 
died Jan. 15th, 1785, in the 37th year of her age : 

' Now I am dead and in my grave, ^ 

And all my bones be rotten ; 
Those lines you see remember me, 
Though I am quite forgotten." 

Certainly, if the reverend ancestors of this thoughtless 
generation are not remembered, the very stones cry out 
against them. Numbers of the graves must have contain- 
ed several persons, whole families and some relations in 
many cases, judging by the inscriptions. Here is one in 
partnership apparently : 

" This stone was erected by Thomas and William Waters, 
in memory of their beloved wives, Ellen and Mary. Mary, 
the wife of William, who departed this life Oct. 23d, 1821. 
Ellen, the wife of Thomas, who departed this life April 12th, 
1822 ; likewise her four infant children. Requiescant in 
pace. Amen." 

Really, one would hardly believe that any thing short 
of an English churchyard contained such unique speci- 
mens. — St. John is generally flooded with strangers dur- 
ing the summer — Canadians coming down to get a breath 
of the ^ea air, and to see their cousins ; business men from 
the " States/' who make an annual visit to their customers, 



68 THE DOMINION OF CANADA. 

and settle old scores. Many come out of curiosity ; some 
for tlie fisli and some for tlie ride — going abroad in an 
abridged way witliout tlie long voyage and immense pock- 
et draught attendant. 

A trip up the Saint John River is pleasant, and puts one 
in mind of a sail up the Rhine — possibly, but probably, a 
good deal more of a ride up the Connecticut. It is esti- 
mated that no less than 13,000,000 feet of lumber comes 
down this same river Saint John every year. Two steam- 
boats ply daily 90 miles to Fredericton, the capital of the 
province, said to be a very pretty place, by the way, and 
well garnished with red coats, enough of which are visi- 
ble anywhere across the Canada line. 

No " Americans " that I hear of remain here for the 
summer — all transient — a look and off. Of the hotel ac- 
commodations the least said the better. Park, Waverley, 
and Stubbs are the principal houses. 



CAIADIAJf MKERAL SPRINGS. 

CALEDONIA. 

The famous Plantagenet water, and some sulphur waters, 
are to be found at Caledonia, (L'Original,) Ontario, 72 miles 
from Montreal. The route thither is that pursued in the 
article entitled To RrrER Ottawa : from Montreal by La 
Chine Railway to La Chine, thence to the steamboat sta- 
tion, L'Original, by steamboat and cars ; thence by stages, 
9 miles— or to Point Fortune, opposite Carillon, instead 
of L'Original. The journey from Montreal occupies about 
12 hours, and is one of the grandest in the Dominion. 



HiJ 



THE DOMIl!aON OF CANADA. 69 

The springs may also be readied from Prescott, opposite 
Ogdensburg, on the Saint Lawrence, by rail to Ottawa, 
and thence by boat and rail, as described in the article on 
RiYER Ottawa. 

The Plantagenet water is too well-known as a valuable 
curative for rheumatic and cutaneous affections to need 
description here, and the contiguity of the springs to the 
Canadian metropolis assures the tourist of meeting there 
abundant and excellent society. The " season" is during 
the heats of August. 

The Plantagenet water was first discovered, it is said, 
by the pigeons; and they used to flock thither in such 
great numbers that human curiosity investigated the 
place, and found that the pigeon's instinctive scent of salt 
had led him aright. There are hotel accommodations 
so excellent that Lippincotfs Gazetteer has made them 
the chief subject of remark in mentioning the springs. 

THE SAINT LEON SPRINGS 

Are at the village of Saint Leon, on the Riviere du Loup 
en Haut, between Montreal and Quebec, 26 miles by 
stage from Three Rivers. As is stated in the article on 
0:jstario and the Saint Lawrence, (which see,) this 
city stands at the mouth of the River Saint Maurice, at the 
foot of the Lake Saint Peter, midway between Montreal 
and Quebec. The scenery in the region is very grand, 
particularly up the Saint Mauiice to the Shawenegan 
Falls. 

SAINT CATHERINE'S. 

The famous springs of Saint Catherine's, chiefly prized 
among Canadian mineral waters, are located at the town 
of the same name, in Ontario Province, 11 miles from 



70 THE D0MINI0:N" of CA:jfADA. 

Niagara Falls, and 32 from Harailton. It is reached by 
tlie Grreat Western Railway of Canada, eitlier from Detroit 
or Suspension Bridge. The resort is popular, not only 
among Canadians, but with great numbers of tourists and 
liealtb-seekers from the United States. The hotel arrange- 
ments have not come to hand at the latest moment, and 
we are therefore obliged to omit them. 

LIST or SALMON AND TEOUT EIVERS BELOW QUEBEC. 

(From the Canadian HandbooJc and Tourists' Guide.) 

Miles. 

From Quebec to Murray Bay 78 

The Saint Lawi'ence here furnishes a few salmon and many 
fine trout. 

From Murray Bay to the Saguenay , 44 

The fishing here is for the white porpoise, and has been men- 
tioned in the article on the Saint Laweexce. 

River Escoumain 23 

Between this and the Saguenay are two branches of the Ber- 
geronne, both furnishing a few salmon and many trout. 

RiTcr Portneuf 26 

Plenty of trout and salmon. 

Sault au Cochon. 9 

Impassable for salmon, but full of trout. 

La Val 2 

Superior salmon and trout. 

Bersemis 24 

In all its tributaries are many fine salmon ; between it and La 
Yal are the Colmnbia, Plover, and Blanche, all poor sahnon 
streams. 

Eiver Outardes • • H 

Manicouagan 1^ 

Mistassimi 12 

Betscie 3 

Godbou 15 

A celebrated salmon river, one of the best in Quebec Pro- 
vince. 



THE DOMINION OF CANADA. '71 

Miles. 
Trinity 15 

Good salmon and trout. 

Little Trinity 10 

Calumet 3 

Pentecost 14 

Not a salmon river. 
Sainte Marguerite 36 

One of the best for both salmon and trout. 
Moisie 23 

Celebrated for fine, large salmon. 

Trout T 

Manitou 35 

Good trout fishing ; salmon obstructed by falls. 

Sheldrake 16 

Magpie 23 

Only a few salmon. 
Saint John 5 

An admirable salmon stream. 
Mingan 16 

Probably the best salmon river in Quebec Province, and ex- 
cellent for trout. 

The streams emptying into tlie Saint Lawrence from the 
south are ruined by mill-dams for salmon, excepting those 
emptying into Gaspe Basin ; but they all afford superior 
trout fishing. This section of country may be reached by 
steamer for Saint John, leaving Boston at 7i a.m. ; time 
out, 32 hours ; fare, $6 ; meals extra. Or, one may go by 
rail to Portland, and intercept the steamer — or go from 
Portland to Calais, Maine, by another stean^boat, and 
thence by rail to Woodstock, New-Brunswick, on the 
Eiver Saint John, whence by stage (Grand Portage road) 
to Riviere du Loup. 

STEAMBOAT ROUTES. 

There are two lines of steamboats traversing the whole 
length of Lake Ontario and the Saint Lawrence from the 



72 THE DOMI^^ON OF CANADA. , 

western end to Montreal. One is English, and the other 
American. The former, the Roval Mail Line, office in 
Great Saint James street, Montreal, follows the English 
shore exclusively imtil it reaches Clayton and Alexandria 
Bay, in the river. The latter, the Ontario Steamboat 
Company, also known as the American Express Line, 
Capt. H. ISr. Throop, Oswego, N. Y., Superintendent, touches 
at all the American stations on both lake and river, and 
at Toronto, Kingston, Prescott, and, of course, Montreal, 
besides. The fare on both is about the same, but the gold 
question affords some annoyance always on the English 
side. American travelers usually much prefer the Ontario 
Steamboat Company's arrangements, although there is 
one change of boats at Ogdensburg, which there is not on 
the other. The fares and times have not been sent us ; 
but the American boats will probably leave Lewiston (hav- 
ing come from Toronto) for Oswego, Ogdensburg, Mont- 
real, etc., at 11 A.M. each day during the season, which 
begins very early and continues till November. The 
American boats are the Ontario, Bay State, Lord Elgin, 
etc., and the English boats are the Magnet, the Alexandra, 
the Columbian, etc. Below Montreal, the Richelieu boats 
are under the same control as the Royal Mail Line ; of 
American boats we have received no intelligence. There 
is usually some opposition line running from Montreal to 
Quebec, and thence to the Saguenay. All boats change at 
Montreal and Quebec. 

There are " excursions" from Montreal to the city of 
Ottawa and to all points below Montreal, even to Halifax 
and Saint John's. Handbills referring to them may 
always be found at the principal hotels in Montreal. The 
prices stated, it should be remembered, are in silver, not 
greenbacks. 



Hel 







aBks 



HoO 



TIME TABLES. 

■WHITE MOUNTAINS. 
Connecticut and Passumpsic Rivers Railway. 



Going South. 


Mail. 


Frs. 


Miles. 


A.M. 


.... 


.. 


7 oo 


.... 





7 i8 





5 


7 30 


30 


10 


7 40 


55 


15 


7 57 


80 


20 


8 12 


95 


25 


8 32 


I 30 


33 





I 55 


40 


8 53 


I 65 


42 


9 06 


I 80 


47 


9 18 


I 90 


49 


9 25 


2 00 


52 




2 15 


56 


9 46 


2 30 


59 


9 51 


2 40 


62 j 




2 55 


66 1 


10 13 


2 70 


70 


10 28 


2 85 


74 


10 35 


2 95 


77 


10 45 


3 10 


81 


11 02 


3 35 


88 


II 16 


3 55 


93 


II 24 


3^^ 


95 


II 35 


3 85 


100 


II 50 


4 05 


106 


12 00 


4 20 


no 


NOON 







STATIONS. 



Leave Arrive 

. . . North-Derby . . . 

Newport 

Coventry 

. . .Barton Landing . . 

Barton 

. . , . South-Barton 

West-Burke 

Folsom's 

Lyndon. . . , . . 

..St. Johnsbury Cen.. 

. . St. Johnsbury . . 

'"'assumpsic 



. . .McLeran's. 

Barnet 

. . . Mclndoes. . . 

Ryegate 

.Wells River. 
. . ..Newbury. . . . 
, South-Newbury 



Going North. 



Mile 



no 

105 
100 

95 
90 

85 
77 
70 
68 

63 
61 

S8 
54 
51 
48 
44 
40 

36 
33 



Bradford | 29 

Fairlee I 22 

. . . North-Thetford. . . I 17 

Thetford | 15 

. . . Pompanoosuc . . . j 10 

Norwich j 4 

White River Junc. o 
Arrive Leave 



Frs. 



4 20 
3 95 
3 75 
3 65 



I 40 
I 25 
95 
75 
65 
45 
25 
o 



i M 


ail. 


P 


:.i. 


7 


25 


7 


12 


6 


58 


6 


47 


6 


29 


6 


18 


5 


51 


5 


34 


5 


18 


5 


II 





01 


1 4 40 


1 4 


34 


4 


17 


4 


00 


' 3 43 


3 


32 


3 


16 


3 


04 


; 2 


00 


2 


44 


1 2 


30 


i 2 


20 


P.M. 



RAILWAY CONNECTIONS. 

At Wells River, with White Mountains Railway for Littleton, (the 
nearest railway station to Wliite and Franconia Mountains,) and Boston, 
Concord, and Montreal Railway for Concord. 

At White River Junction, with Northern (N. H.) Railway for Con- 
cord, Manchester, Portsmouth, Nashua, Worcester, Providence, Lowell, 
Lawrence, and Boston. Vermont Central Railway, for Waterbury, iNIount 
Mansfield, Montpelier, Burlington, Ogdensburg, Montreal, and Saratoga 
Springs. Verviojit Central and Connectiait River Liiie^ for Windsor, 
Bellows Falls, Rutland, Saratoga Springs, Keene, Fitchburg, Worcester, 
Providence, Brattleboro, Northampton, Springfield, Hartford, New-Haven, 
New- York, and Southern cities. 

STEAMBOAT CONNECTION. 

Steamer leaves Newport daily, during the pleasure travel season, for 
Magog, connecting with coaches for Grand Trunk Railway, (Sherbrooke 
Station,) arriving at ^Montreal or Quebec same evening. 



2 TIME TABLES. 

BOSTOIT, CO]SrCORD, AINTD MOlSrTIlEAI., AISTD 
WHITE MOUJSr TAINS (IST.H-.) KAIL WAYS. 

CONCORD TO LITTLETON. | LITTLETON TO CONCORD. 



Ace. 


ISIail. 


P.M. 


A.M. 


3 25 


10 34 


3 32 


10 41 


3 54 


II 02 


4 10 


II 20 


4 25 


II 35 


4 35 


11 45 


4 52 


12 02 


4 57 


12 07 


5 12 


12 22 


5 2S 


12 35 


5 49 


I oS 


6 05 


I 23 


P.M. 


148 




2 II 




2 20 




2 34 




2 45 




3 15 




3 30 




3 43 




4 00 




4 05 



P.M. 



O 

2 

5 
10 

13 
18 
22 

27 
29 

33 
37 
41 
45 
48 

51 

57 
59 
62 

67 
71 
79 
84 
89 
93 

93 

98 
103 
T08 
113 



STATIONS. 



Mis. Ace. Mail 



Leave Amve 

Concord^ 

East-Concord 

North-Concord 

Canterburj' 

Northiield 

Sanbornton 

Union Bridge 

Laconia 

Lake Village 

Weirs 

Meredith Village 

Foggs's Road 

Holderness 

Bridge\Yater 



Plymouth 



( leave I 



aiTive i 

leave ) { arrive 

Quincy | 

Rumney j 

West-Rumney 1 

Wentworth 

Warren 

East- Haverhill 

I ..Haverhill and Nevrbur}'. . 

North- Haverhill 

! Woodsville 

uleave f ( amve 

' Bath 

Lisbon 

North-Lisbon 

Littleton 

Arrive Leave 



113 
III 
108 
103 

lOO 

95 
91 
86 
84 
80 
76 
72 
63 
65 
62 

S6 
54 
SI 
46 
42 

34 
29 
24 I 
20 , 

20 

15 ' 
10 

5 
o 



A.M. 
10 05 

9 58 

9 33 
9 20 

9 GO 

8 50 
8 33 
8 28 

8 13 
8 00 

7*36 
7 20 

A.M. 



P.M. 

3 25 
3 18 



I 07 

12 52 
12 26 

12 03 

II 54 
II 40 
II 29 

10 59 
10 44 

10 33 

ID 17 
10 12 
10 06 

9 47 
9 30 
9 IS 
9 00 

A.M. 



1 Railways diverging from Concord. — Boston, Concord, and Mon- 
treal, above ; Northern ; Concord and Portsmouth ; Concord and Clare- 
mont ; Concord, Manchester, and Lawrence. 

2 Connects with C onnecticut and Passumpsic River Railway. 
Steamer Lady of the Lake, during the season of navigation, leaves 

Weirs for Centre Harbor, Wolfboro, etc., on arrival of each train. 

Stages leave Plymouth and Littleton for White Mountains and Fran- 
conia Notch. 

Stages leave Sanbornton for New-Hampton and Gilmanton ; Meredith 
Village, for Conway ; Plymouth, for Franconia ; Littleton, for Lancaster ; 
and Barton, for Stanstead and other places, (see Connecticut and Passump- 
sic Railway,) on the arrival of the first up-train from Boston. 



TIME TABLES. 



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New-Haven to New-London. 



TIME TABLES. 



For the "WTiite and Franconia Mountains and Jjake 
Memplireinagog. 

This is the most direct and pleasant route to White and Franconia 
Mountains, Lake Willoughby, and Lake Memphremagog, passing near 
the villages of Norwich, Vt., Hanover, N. H., (where is located the cele- 
brated Dartmouth College,) Thetford, Vt., Lyme, N. H., Fairlee, Yt., 
■ Orford, N. H., Bradford, Vt., Haverhill, N. H., Newbury, Vt., (the loca- 
tion of the sulphur springs, much resorted to for their medicinal qualities,) 
Wells River, Vt., (where White Mountains Railway connects for Little- 
ton, the nearest railway station to the White and Franconia Mountains,) 
Barnet, St. Johnsbury, Lyndon, Barton, and Ne\\-port, (the head of Lake 
Memphremagog. ) 

The hotel accommodations along the entire line are first-class. " Smok- 
ing-cars" run on all trains. Luxuriously furnished "ladies' cars" run 
daily between Springfield and Lake -Memphremagog during the pleasure- 
travel season. 

From New- York. — The route via New- York and New-Haven Rail- 
way, or New- Haven Steamers and Connecticut River Valley, is s/jvty 
viiles shorter than any other, and the time correspondingly quicker. The 
scenery along the valley of the Connecticut River, which is followed for 
some 200 miles, is unsurpassed for beauty and variety. There is no 
change of cars between Springfield and Lake Memphremagog. 

From Boston. — The route is via Boston and Lowell, Boston and 
I^Iaine, or Fitchburg Railways to White River Junction, there connecting 
with Passumpsic Road for points as named above. No change of cars be- 
tween Boston (Lowell Railway depot) and Lake Memphremagog. 

From Saratoga Springs. — The route \svia Lake George, Lake Cham- 
plain, and Burlington, or via Rutland and Bellows Falls to White River 
Junction, as above. 

From Quebec. — The route is via Grand Trunk Railway to Sherbrooke, 
thence by coach to Magog, connecting with steamer for Ne^^'port, thence 
by Passumpsic Railway to White and Franconia ^Mountains, New- York, 
or Boston. 

From Montreal. — The route is via Grand Trunk Railway to Sher- 
brooke, or via Montreal and Champlam and Stanstead, Shefford and 
Chair.bly Railways, to Waterloo ; thence by coaches to I^Iagog or KnowJ- 
ton's Landing, connecting with steamer for Ne^^'port, thence by Passump- 
sic Railway to White Mountains, New-York, or Boston. 



J. 



TIME TABLES. 



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TIME TABLES. 






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TIME TABLES. 



jLiONG 


BRANCH 


.— Raritan & Delaware Bay Railway. 


Going South. 


STATIONS. 


Going North. 


S d 


1^ 

J" 






1 


t/3 


w 




'0 


II 




P.M. 
400 

4 15 

5 22 


P.M. 
4 00 

4 15 

5 35 
5 45 
5 52 

5 59 

6 II 
617 
6 26 

631 
6 36 
6 42 

6 46 


A.M. 

11 15 

12 40 




19 


Leave Arrive 
( . . . New- York . . . ) 
{ Pier No. 32, N. R. ( 
( Pier No. 3, N. R. ) 

P. M. Pier 

..Port Monmouth.. 

Highlands 

.. .Middletown 

Red Bank 

Shrewsbury 

Junction 


113 

94 
93 
91 
90 

87 
85 
84 


.P.M. 
2 CO 

12 40 
12 32 

12 12 
12 02 


A.M. 

9 35 
9 20 

7 55 
748 
7 41 
7 34 
7 22 

7 15 
7 09 


a.m. 

9 35 
9 20 

8 07 









22 

23 

I ID 26 

28 

I 21 29 

















5 43 






P.M. 
12 02 


.... 


P.M. 
I 13 




I 26! 30 

T "J T T 


a r . . . . Eatontown. . . . 

^ J Oceanport 

<] Branchport . . . 

§ I . .Long Branch. . 


Ss'ii 56 

86 ' T T e T 


7 02 
6 56 
6 51 

6 45 






, 






j 12 20 5 59 

. 12 24 6 02 


I 37 
I 41 


33 

34 


88 
89 


II 46 
II 40 


7 30 

7 25 


I 01 
12 56 



HOUS ATONIC RAILWAY. 



Bridgeport to Pittsfield. | Pittsfield to Bridgeport. 



Pass. 


Pass. 


Mis. 


P.M. 


a.m. 




5 35 


10 30 





6 03 


10 58 


10 


6 14 


II 10 


15 


6 25 


II 21 


19 


6 41 


II 35 


23 


6 59 


II 50 


29 


7 15 


• 12 05 


35 


7 31 


12 22 


42 


8 01 


12 52 


48 


8 20 


I 09 


57 


8 34 


I 23 


61 


8 50 


I 38 


67 


9 06 


I 53 


73 


9 II 


' 5S 


75 


9 21 


2 08 


79 


9 36 


2 24 


85 


9 45 


2 34 


87 


9 52 


2 42 


89 


10 GO 


2 51 


92 


10 06 


258 


93 


10 II 


3 05 


95 


10 23 


3 17 


99 


10 28 


3 26 


lOI 


10 32 


3 30 1 


102 


10 45 


3 38 i 


106 


11 00 


3 50 


no 


p.m. 


P.M. 


t 



STATIONS. 



Leave Arrive 

Bridgeport 

Stepney 

Botsford'. 

.... .Newtown , 

Hawleyville. 

Brook'field 

....New-Milford 

.... Gaylordsville , 

Kent , 

. . Cornwall Bridge 

West Cornwall. 

Falls Village 

Canaan , 

Ashlev Falls 

Sheffield , 



Arrive 



. . Barrington . . 
.V. Deusenville 
. . Housatonic . . 
. . . Glendale . . . 
. . Stockbridge. . 
. . .South-Lee.. . 

Lee 

Lenox Furnace. 

Lenox .... 

Deweys. . . . 

. Pittsfield .. 



Leave 



Mis. 


Pass. 




P.M. 


no 


2 20 


100 ! 


I 53 


95 


I 39 


91 


I 25 


87 


I II 


81 


12 55 


75 


12 39 


68 


12 22 


62 


12 07 


53 


II 34 


49 


II 24 


43 


II 08 


37 


10 52 


35 


10 45 


31 


10 35 


25 


10 19 


23 


10 10 


21 


10 OS 


18 


9 56 


17 


9 51 


15 


9 45 


II 


9 34 


9 


9 26 


8 


9 22 


4 


9 12 





9 00 




A.M. 



P.M. 

3 25 
55 
41 
29 
16 
56 
34 
16 
56 
33 
19 
00 

44 
36 
26 
II 
02 
57 



Through Fare, $3 10. 



TIME TABLES. 



nSTAUG-ATUCK RAILWAY. 



Bridgeport to Winsted. 



WiNSTED TO Bridgeport. 



Pass. 


Pass. 


Mis. 


P.M. 


A.M. 




5 20 


10 15 





5 32 


10 2& 


3 


5 39 


10 33 


5 


6 05 


II 00 


14 


6 14 


II 09 


16 


6 26 


II 21 


20 


6 37 


II 32 


23 


6 49 


II 44 


27 


6 53 


II 4S 


28 


708 


12 03 


32 


7 18 


12 13 


35 


7 40 


12 35 


41 


7 57 


12 52 


47 


8 05 


I 00 


49 


814 


I 10 


52 


8 31 


I 2^ 


57 


844 


I 40 


62 


P.M. 


P.M. 





STATIONS. 



Leave 



Arr 



.Bridgeport. 
. . . Stratford . . . 
. . Junction. . . 
....Derby.... 
. . . Ansonia. . . 
. . . Seymour . . . 
.Beacon Falls. 
. Naugatuck. . 
..Union City. . 
, Waterbury. 
. .Water villa . , 
. . Ph-mouth. . . 
Camp's ^lills. 
. . Litchneld. . . 
. Wolcottville . 
. .. Burrville. .. 
. .Winsted. .. 



Arrive 



Leave 



Mis. 

i 


Pass. 


A.M. 


61 ; 


10 00 


SI : 


9 50 


56 ' 


9 44 


48 . 


9 17 


46 i 


9 09 


42 


?-5 


39 


8 44 


34 


8 31 


33 


8 28 


29 


8 16 


26 


8 03 


20 


7 41 


15 


7 25 


12 


7 17 


9 


7 08 


4 


652 





6 40 




A.M. 



Pass. 



P.M 

5 3« 

5 iJ 



Through Fare, I2.05. 



TBENTOISr FALIiS.-UTICA AND BLACK: BIVER 
KAILAVAY. 



Mixed. 


Pass. 


Mis 


P.M. 


A.M. 




5 30 
548 

6 00 


8 00 
8 20 
835 




6 
10 


.... 




12 


6 24 


9 03 


16 
17 



STATIONS. 



Leave An-ive 

Utica 35 

Marcy 29 

Stitts\dlle 25 

Holland Patent j 23 

Trenton I 19 

Trenton Falls ! 18 



Mh 



Mixed. 



A.M. 

II 10 

10 50 
10 38 

10 13 



Pass. 



P.M. 

3 30 
3 10 

2 58 

2 35 



TIME TABLES, 



9 



CAPE MAY RAILWAY. 



u 

is 


II 




s| 














J^ 

rt rt 

^(U 




b/DS 

'w CD 


1^ 






STATIONS. 




T3 




(U ^ 




it 


P.M. 


P.M. 


P.M. 


A.M. 


Leave Arrive. 


A.M. 


A.M. 


A.M. 


P.M. 


6 oo 


3 30 


3 15 


8 00 




'Philadelphia. 




752 


9 07 


9 52 


5 37 


6 lo 


3 40 


3 27 


8 10 




Camden 

Junction . , . 




7 43 


8 57 


9 43 


5 22 


6 24 


3 53 


3 40 


8 22 




. . .Gloucester.. . 




7 31 


8 46 


9 32 


5 o§ 


6 30 


3 58 


3 45 


827 




. . . Westville . . 




7 24 


8 41 


9 28 


5 03 


6 40 


4 07 


3 54 


8 36 




.. Woodbury .. 




7 15 


8 34 


9 20 


4 54 


P.M. 


4 18 


4 03 


8 48 


t^ 


Mantua 




A.M. 


8 23 


9 II 


4 42 




4 23 


4 08 


8 53 


S 


. . Barnsboro 


i 


.... 


8 18 


9 07 


436 




4 31 




9 01 


^- 


. . .Marlboro 




8 13 


9 03 


4 30 




4 40 


4 21 


9 II 


■^ 


. . Glassboro . . . 


.... 


8 06 


8 54 


4 22 


.... 


4 47 





9 19 


to 


Union 


<2 





7 58 




4 13 


.... 


4 51 


.... 


9 23 


Harding 




. . . 


7 54 


.... 


4 09 





4 57 




9 28 




Monroe . . . 




.... 


748 


.... 


4 03 


.... 


5 06 





9 36 




...PiTTSTOWN.. 







7 41 




3 56 


.... 


5 15 


.... 


9 45 




.... Palatine 






7 30 


.... 


3 45 


.... 


5 21 




9 51 




.... Hustcd.... 







7 24 




3 39 


.... 


5 31 





10 01 




Finley 







7 14 





3 29 


.... 


5 40 


.... 


10 10 




. . Bridgeton. . , 




.... 


7 05 


.... 


3 20 


.... 


5 06 




9 36 




'' Pittstown ...- 




.... 


7 37 




3 52 


.... 


5 16 




9 47 




. , . Newkirk's. . . 




.... 


7 27 


.... 


3 42 


.... 


5 21 


.... 


9 52 




. . . Daretown. . . , 


^ 




7 23 


.... 


3 38 


.... 


5 25 





9 56 


Si 


. . . Paulding. . . 




7 19 


.... 


3 34 


.... 


5 30 


.... 


10 01 


-^^ 


. .YORKETOWN.. 


--1 




7 15 


.... 


3 30 


.... 


5 37 




10 08 


<-0 


. ..Oakland.... 






7 07 


.... 


3 22 


.... 


5 43 





10 14 




Alloway 


^ 





7 01 





3 16 


.... 


5 48 


.... 


10 19 




. . Middletown . . 






6 56 


.... 


3 " 


.... 


5 58 


.... 


10 29 




Salem 

' . . . Glassboro. . . . "" 




... 


6 45 




3 00 


.... 


P.M. 


4 23 


9 II 






.... 


A.M. 


?53 


4 10 


.... 


.... 


4 34 


9 23 




,. .Fislerville 







.... 


8 43 


3S8 


.... 


.... 


4 42 


9 31 


^ 


. Franklinville. . 




.... 


.... 


8 36 


3 50 


.... 


.... 


4 45 


9 34 


s 


Crane's 


|> 


.... 


.... 


8 33 


3 47 


.... 




4 52 


9 41 




Malaga 





.... 


8 26 


3 40 


.... 


.... 


4 59 


9 48 


....Newfield... 


T^ 


.... 


. . . . 


8 18 


3 31 


.... 


.... 


5 02 


9 51 




.North-Vineland. 







. . . . 


8 14 


328 


.... 


.... 


5 14 


10 02 


^ 


Vineland 




. • . . 


8 04 


3 18 


.... 




5 22 


10 II 




South-Vineland. 










7 55 


3 09 


.... 


.... 


5 31 


10 22 




. ..MiLLVILLE.. 




.... 


. . . . 


7 45 


3 00 


.... 


.... 


5 32 


. .. . 


-^ 


'....Millville....' 






. . . . 


7 43 


P.M. 


.... 


.... 


5 50 


. . . . 


?2 


..Manumuskin, . 




.... 


. . . . 


7 25 


. . . . 


.... 




6 07 


... 


1 


, .. Belleplain ,. . 




.... 





7 05 












6 16 
6 22 





^ 


.. Woodbine . . 
..Mt. Pleasant... 


& 


.... 




6 56 
6 49 






.... 





6 31 





1 


Seaville 


' r^ 







6 40 






.... 


.... 


6 42 


. . . . 


^ 


Swain 




.. .. 


6 27 






.... 





6 51 





§" 


C. M. Ct. House 


4 








6 18 






.... 


.... 




. . . . 


^ 


. . . Millerton .. . 


.... 










.... 


.... 


7 04 




. .Rio Grande... 




.... 


. . . . 


6 02 






.... 




7 II 


. . . . 


J 


... Bennett.... 








5 54 






.... 


.... 


7 20 




. . .Cape May. .. 




, . . . 





5 45 












P.M. 





Ar 


rive Le 


jave 







A.M. 







10 



TIME TABLES. 



REIsTSSELAER 


AND SARATOGA 


RAILWAY. 


Accom. 


Mail. 

A.M. 


Miles. 


STATIONS. 


Miles. 


' Accom. 

i 


Mail. 


P.M. 




Leave Arrive 




A.M. 


P.M. 


4 25 


7 10 




Albany^ 




10 50 


9 00 


4 50 


7 45 




Schenectady 




10 05 


825 


4 40 


7 30 





Troy 


95 


10 35 


8 50 


4 45 


7 36 


I 


. . . Green Island 


94 


10 30 


845 


4 58 


7 49 


4 


Waterford 


91 


10 18 


8 30 


5 06 


7 58 


6 


. . Albany Junction . . 


89 


10 13 


8 22 


5 21 


8 13 


12 


.. .Mechanicsville. . . 


83 


9 56 


8 07 


5 50 


8 46 


25 


Ballston2 


70 


9 24 


7 36 


6 15 


9 10 


32 


Saratoga 


63 


9 05 


7 17 


6 44 


9 35 


43 


Gansevoort 


52 


8 33 


6 44 


7 00 


9 48 


48 


Moreau^ 


47 


8 19 


6 29 


7 07 


9 53 


49 


...Fort Edward.. . 


46 


8 13 


624 


7 16 


10 01 


52 


..Dunham's Basin.. 


43 


1 8 02 


6 15 


7 28 


10 12 


57 


. . ..Smith's Basin. .. 


38 


7 50 


6 04 


7 39 


10 23 


61 


Fort Ann 


34 


7 39 


5 53 


7 50 


10 33 


6.5 


Comstock's Landing. 


30 


7 28 


5 42 


8 06 


10 50 


71 


^ ) . . Junction. . ( = 


24 


7 10 


5 25 







73 


Ef[ .L. Cham.4. ]| 


25 






8 10 


10 53 




= ) , . Junction.. ( ^ 


. , 


1 7 05 


5 20 


8 32 


II 18 


79 


Fairhaven 


16 


! 643 


4 58 


8 38 


II 23 


81 


Hvdeville 


14 


637 


452 


8 47 


II 32 


84 


Castleton^ 


II 


j 6 28 


4 42 


9 05 


II 50 


91 


...West-Rutland.... 


4 


1 612 


4 25 


9 15 


12 00 


95 


Rutland^ 





' 6 00 


4 15 


P.M. 


M. 




Arrive Leave 




a.m. 


P.M. 



^ Connects with Hud. R. Railway ; 
Troy and Schenectady Railway ; 
and Troy and Greenbush R'way. 

1 Steamboats to New-York, etc. 

2 Junction of Saratoga and Schenec- 

tady Railway. 
^ Glenn's Falls, Lake George, etc. 



4 Steamboats to Burlington, Platts- 

burg and Montreal. 

5 Junction of Rutland and Washing- 

ton Railway. 
^ Connects with Rutland and Bur- 
lington Railway. 



"WHITE MOUJSTTAINS 
Grand Trunk Railway of Canada. 



Pass. 



A.M. 

7 40 

7 55 

8 10 
8 14 

8 43 

9 00 
9 27 
9 40 

10 00 

A.M. 



Express. 


Miles. 


P.M. 




I 10 





I 2$ 


5 


I 40 


II 


I 45 


12 


2 15 


22 


2 30 


27 


2 55 


36 


3 10 


41 


3 30 


47 


4 10 


62 


4 40 


70 


5 15 


80 


s 30 


86 


5 50 


91 



STATIONS. 

Leave Arrive 

Portland 

Falmouth 

Yarmouth 

.Yarmouth Junction. 
. . .New-Gloucester. . 
..Danville Junction.. 
. . . Mechanic Falls . . . 

Oxford.. 

Soutn-Paris. . . . 

. . .Bryant's Pond. .. 

Bethel 

Gilead 

Shelburne 

GORHAM 



Miles. 


Pass. 




A.M. 


861 


8 10 


857 
850 

849 


655 

7 40 
7 35 


839 
834 
825 


7 03 

647 

1 6 18 


820 


6 05 


814 


5 45 


799 


A.M. 


791 
781 


:::; 


775 


— 


770 





Express. 

P.M. 

2 15 
2 00 
I 40 

I 35 

I 00 
12 45 
12 15 
12 00 
II 40 
II 00 
10 30 
10 05 

9 50 

9 30 



*f ^^ 



TIME TABLES. 



11 



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12 



TIME TABLES. 



i 


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ft, <i cC 


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»OrOi-i ■<*■C^C^C^lO■^l-l M C^t^t^"^>^fO • 


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g S. S. . s. . S^ - ^ -. ^ 


^ §:i s - ^ :: :: ^ 


r;: 


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c: «^ 


S 


min^OOOOooo^inOOO • 


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NOooo-^-^'^-Nwooiou-j^a . 


• M w Tf CO OOO t^ t^ t^ • 



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\r, \r^ \r> XT) loo O O O O C^ 



O -t 



!0 O^no o O O^ommo o ir) xn 

|0 fO'^O lOCOCOlOtH CON o ^fO 
vO ts, O^OO MMNtrjt^OMKWfO 



00 O O O CN M 



^ 


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(L) 


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X 


g>^ii?8 8^^8^i-S2,8 8 8^^2)I^^SI^8J^a8 


W 


00 O N M o loo <-i N mo '0^sO^MMONO^^^^fOlo loo « 

MWHl WM MMMM 



??i 



S— :: S ^ :: » :: ^^ ^ :: :: 

»; <■ ft. 

Q^'OOOOO •lAO^nvovooOO^ 

W I N -<4-0 VO N • ►-• 'i-O ON <^ W M M Tj- 



< ft; 

to xo O O O O 
fO (S M fO O N 

c^oo O O •-' 00 



a: < &; <■ c: 

O O O O O m vnoo U-) IT) o o o o 

j«<';fOO N O O ■'f^ioo M O -^-^ro 

W 00 O N w tvO t^ >H C^ ir)0O 00 00 O 



< 

o o 

lO O 



:; 2 s :: S 

ft^ 



TIME TABLES. 



13 



I— I 

d 
o 

■4^ 



<\ 


n:3 


Pk 


a 


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d 





PI 






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t 


l-H 
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P^i 






OOO iOiOLovo-<i-Tj--<^-^mr^mro 



O O OMOiOioO lOO iot}- t^O t^ >* ^ o o o o 
ti-)rOM o lo^-^H o -^fOM O T^^^ wioTj-rH o 

MCSNNMWMi-cwOOOOG^ON G^OO 00 00 30 

OMir)Nt>.iom0^^i-' -rooo .ioomco oc 
O ro M ri M w w M O O • OOO . C^O O lO -"^ 






:U 



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^ 2 

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lO 





,; „• 








0»nr0L0C>N000^00'-iN0O0 ^0 t^ ^ 




C^Ml-.^^(^^MM^HMMM^^(^l^^roforomrl-r^ 


CO 


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a2 


»n ^> f-~ N lo tj-do cn '^ c>oo N M m 






10 t^ t>N t^oo ooooooco 000000 >-i 1-" 





14 



TIME TABLES. 



• • • lOOO NONOfOt~>m» 

• 'gcso^orriMroc^o-^S 

• • •< t>. t>.\0 \DvOiO>0»n'^<i 

^Tf, .MO-<tfooio-^NOOiomMtHO'^NO-*oc^O'<*-NiH 

• M -Js,r+* rofO^^(SN^Hl-iWMH^^r^^^NNl-<►-.MOOOOC^a^O^ 







• 













• • • 


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, 




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o 


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trv to in M 


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fO ro w 


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lo ro M 


^n ^ m r^ 


lO T}- CO M 





lO -^ M IH 


Tt- N lo 




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to 


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N 


M M H 




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o o o o 

M IH M l-l 


0\ O\oo 


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ts 









16 



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wp^.^ : 5 i : . : ilz; 

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• ••OON-^Mrt-O'^^O ••oio»oo>oiom 

. .gmON^OfOmONS «^SorOMmONm 


. • P^ mo o o t^ t^ t^oo ooP^ •«^<oooooooooo^c> 



TIME TABLES. 



15 



< 00 t-NvO vo m in < 



Onoo 00 CO 00 g^ o^oo 00 t^ t^ tvvo \0^o xoin»OHivOv£)vO »oiomio»o-^-^roPH 



00 . inoO Oinl>^0 -N .OOOOOOQiOii-J'VrirONNtnMU-iOt^OO' 
11 InNNi-tHM In iNMMMwOOji'-iwwHOOOOOOOO^ 

MM M MMWMMMH'SWMMMMMIHMMM 

Oi0i000000000»0' 

xr)mMO»00»OMiHiO'<l-i-ig 

tx t^ ^s CsvO 00 tv t^ t^\0 nO vO < • 

nooNvo • .ooT^tv.^OTt-.^^^T^HO 

^DT^lr)>J^••^^fOrON•l-l ..» 




• ^;/3 J^ ^_ 



b/D 



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c/3 : 






:P4 : •' 






C/5 bJD -^ ^ 13 ^ 



w 



ID lOO lO to lO • nO 



"-) M M -"f -^ lO O c^ r*^- ''t- n 



vO C^ t^ t^ C^ t^OO 00 00 CO O 



rf-Tj--t»OiO'<*--<l-->4--^i/^xn »00 sOOvO t^t^nvOvOO t^t>Ntr^r^t^ t^OO O ■< 



\0 vO vC t^ t^vO vO C^ t^ t^OO 00 f^ 



c^ooooc^a^ooo 



N N N N M H r+* 



(w fO'+'^Joioiofw 



16 



TIME TABLES. 





g 

f^ 


• Om • -<*•.. 

• Ttro ro.. 


. . O • lO . .CO 
' '-00 '• t^ '. : tN 


p. 

X 




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^ N P< 


s 


s 

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O mo^ho lOO roC\ »000 in i>» N »D -^i- roo O m lo fO t^ O 
Mi-itn'^-^-^fOrONMi-iOOioio^rONwOin-<rfONMO 




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as 


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ooooooooooi>st^tr^t^t^t^t^t^c^t^t^<; » 








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:::::::: 






v8 


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CO -^ in in >-• 

O O O O w h* 




< 


• O O m 
. O « M 

•COO 










romm^^inminoO'-'NNg • 

ooooooooM^wMM^' ; 


' 




:'.:'.'.'. 




S 
< 


. H M • 

l-i H 


t^ .... 00 . 

Tl- . . . . . 


'. 




:i? : ; SS^ 










W l-l 






M 






i N M N 


O m o T^ oo o m N in moo m • . 
000i-ii-i(NmcOTj--^ininog • 


'. 




:::::: 


CO CO fO fO fO CO fO fO fO fO fO fO "<*• c^ • 













:82 : 


. .N .0 ..p^o.o.o t^o Noooc mmoo -<*- 
. .ro.TT. .min.o .M«NroTi-^inO'-'WNfO 

! ;,^!,^i I^-^!in!ininin«nu-) mo o o o o 


(3 


p; 




ro . - 

. Tj- . . 

I ! ! I I I ! I I I I I in ^ ' 


• 


: 


m . ^ . 
vO • O • • O 


P4 




• O O in o in c> -"^ OO o in cs m rroo m • • 
.OwNromm^^inoO'-iMfSNro^ • 

•sOONO>OOvOvDOOt>.t>.tNt>t^t^t^^ • 


; 


' 


:::::: 



H11 



TIME TABLES, 



17 



<y 






si 

in '^ 



O 



2 S 






N M m U-) 






- - o o j^ 



'^-5^^ ^.^.2 



^ §f^ 



rt OJ • ^• 



> 
H-1 



o o 
M 10 



MNC^NNMONfOlT) 100 00 O 



.s >. 









^5 ' '^ b 



5g 
O H c/^ U Ph ^ W W Pi 






O C 












'C o 



s^ 



o 






rr, P (n^^ 

,2 rt 



o a 

"-a 

Ef3 



Ph rO-^ 






5< 

cfl i; W N J, 

<U S CD ;rr^ ^ 

C rt C O f< 
C G 
O O 

(J U 



OS 

.1=; o 






> s 



rt o 



N 



Ms 6 



^ c" ip 



<j ^ o 

t/3 <U W ^ 



b S 2 w 

5^ 1j O 

crt ^3 p 

npH '^'^^ 

U 



la 









TIME TABLES. 




1^ s 


< 


88 

M 2 


v^fONOtnOioO— '.. 

cnoiONioooOrt 






O OOO CO t^ c^ t>.\o < II 






i 


lo 
-^0 


Tt--<^tr>i-iiOfOMfOOrO'-<ir>-^NNMU-)rn>HO'^'fO' ■ ■«( 


.c P. 


d, 


O 


w » 




C 1) 


s 


^8 


irio ioiJ-)t~^iOioO i^N t^w O "^ O O t>.0 O u^N '>*--*'*-*CM 
Tj-fOC^ -^M O N iTJN iD'<<-mH O ^M O ->*•« -^miotKOO' 




'^* 


M H 


NC^nNMMMQON ONOO 00 00 CO 00 00 C^ t^ t^-O O u-> U") ■<*■ ^ -^ tJ- c 





OinOu^OOiOiOOOONON -<*-00 ON00rf-MOO« 
(S-^rOMMUirioiDOM-^wOTt-roMwiorOHiioS 

lo -^ -^ "^ Ti-_m fomM<swNNNMMi-iHooocN'< 



<;io-<*-Tj-rocorocoNNHi-i<^NNPlwi-iMi-ioooON Onoo oo oo oo t>« t 



!^.c:^ 



CO fO c^ O t^co O w ro 
ro M 1-c O O o c^oo r^ 



ro 01 w O O O OOO t^O lO Tt-m^MMOC' 



•J > rt 



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rH''T3 












i >-'^ s"'?'§-;^ 






P=5 O c-S-So- 



p^g-^ 



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C J:, 



•<r too !>.CO OOMNNffJ; 



NTrotS'^'-'>oiHm'<4-»'iN- 

< M H N N C^ N fOfOfO'<^-^iOiOiOU^O"OvOvO t^t>t^OOOO O^ O G^ O O C' 



.0fnxi0>J~)0"^in0 0"^io000\0<^fOiON0 00NNf^io»n«l 
gOroiJ^<^fOOM"^<NrOfn'-'"^OW"^»OOfOOrOOr^'-'"^0'-'MiOC 

Ph' O^OnOnO O m w m cq M M N CS f0mr0f0^"^i0u-)OO t^tr^XJOCO^OOC 



.too"^Nnooi^u^io "^vO N r^ ON c^ ON looo o o o o ooo ■^•5'"*'!2r 

p^ M M M M H N cq roro^fo-^'^ioiov^irj ino vO t^ t-^oc Cn O C^ O O O 



OOOOOOOOOO'-iwi-ifsNNN 



M N N r<^rO'«^'!^'>i-^* 



S W I 



• omO(^^»oOOinO« 
pi -<4- T^- U-) lO lOO vO C^ t^OO pi 



puB ai-13 usaM 



Q f^ f 



TIME TABLES. 



19 



uHupy Vlyl 



00 t^ c^o >o»o'>4--^fnroN N N 



CO CO en N M 



gui-^ ai Y z?/y^ 



00 t^ t^ c^o sO '^ -^ »- 



t^vo vo o lo ■<!^ 



' UBUpy 272^ 



CO n cs M H (s n 



o o o^ o^oo t>. t^ <; 



toOwfOO CO -"^O^wcOt^OOJOt^mwCOOi-i -<^00 CO iriOO w O Oi-i OvO cOO^l-| 
«5 OO tvvO -"i- CO 1-1 M O O^CO t~^0 -^rOM cow w c^C^t^iOCOcOO) O O OOO t>. lO -^ 
NCSC^N N NMNMmwi-(i-(i-ihhN<SC>Ji-(mi-immhi-imw 




^ . * ! c: c 13 >-<' J rt rt 






o rt 5 ^^ ';5. 



rt 


•T3 


^ 


!3 


rJ 


<U 


^» 


rt 


■, 












:3 


S 




m 



^ r ^ 

... o £ 
'^^^ 



^ O 



O r>N 1000 
■ vo mo t^ 
« N cs N 



O w ci co-<i-Tt-xDt^oO w O N cs -"i-vO vOOQOO'-icqrO'* "^vO l>. O 

COCOCOCOCOCOCOCOCO'<i-->4-COCOCOCOCOCOCO'^'<4-'^'^-^'^-^'^'^'^ 



Via Adrian. 



O 10 



vO • t^OO O O 



S I This train leaves every night 
< ) except Saturday. 



Ot^0^oioot>.coMMr^movO 'COO 

N 10 M lo M fo « CO xo o c^ 10 c^ . CO o ViaKvc Line. 

MMNNMi-(CSCSf<COCOCO-<i- • 10\0 



vO t^ C~> t^OO o o 



. . Via Adrian, 



VJ 10\0 \o c^ t^ 



00 00 On O O 



CJ C< C^ CO CO 'to vO ■< 



^q oSB3Tq3 pun opapx u99Avi9q pun '. aunj sriqump^ Aq op9[ox 
-9q : 9UIIJ f>[B0ng; Xq una 9ie 9U3 puB ^FiJ^^a ugg^wpq suiij.ijl 



20 



TIME TABLES. 



MILWAUKEE AND ST. PAUL KAILWAY, 



Exp. 


Pass. 


Mis. 


P.M. 


A.M. 




8 20 


II 00 





9 OS 


II 48 


14 


9 25 


12 05 


20 


10 13 


12 51 


3(5 


10 30 


I 06 


42 


10 55 


I 33 


so 


11 40 


2 30 


b3 
71 


.... 


3 35 





5 55 


105 


12 00 


2 50 


70 


12 30 


3 17 


80 


I 30 


4 22 


95 


2 47 


6 05 


118 


3 35 


7 10 


132 


3 57 


7 35 


I3« 


4 20 


8 05 


145 


4 40 




151 


5 30 


9 00 


165 


7 05 


10 00 


193 


8 20 


P.M. 


194 


10 01 


... 


220 


10 40 


.... 


231 


II 00 


.... 


237 


II 10 


.... 


240 


II 54 




256 


12 24 




267 


12 59 


.... 


279 


I 37 




290 


2 29 


.... 


305 


3 16 


... 


320 


4 32 


.... 


333 


5 i« 


.... 


353 


5 50 


.... 


364 


6 02 


.... 


367 


643 





380 


7 SO 


.... 


400 


8 20 


12 00 


409 


8 10 


II 50 


406 


P.M. 


A.M. 





STATIONS. 



Leave Arrive 

Milwaukee 

Brookfield Junction. 

.-. , .Waukesha 

Eagle 

Palmyra 

Whitewater . . . 

Milton Junction. . . 

Janesville. 

arrive Monroe leave 

Edgerton 

Stoughton 

Madison. 

Mazomanie 

Spring Green 

Lone Rock 

Avoca 

Muscoda 

Boscobel 

Prairie du Chien 

North McGregor 

Postville 

Ossian 

Calmer 

Conover 

Cresco 

. Lime Springs 

Le Roy 

Adams 

Austin 

Blooming Prairie 

Owatonna 

Faribault 

Dundas 

Northfield 

Farmington 

Mendota 

arrive. . .Minneapolis. . .leave 

St. Paul 

Arrive Leave 



Mis. ] 


^ass. 




P.M. 


406 


5 so 


392 


4 S2 


386 


4 35 


370 


3 49 


364 


3 34 


356 


3 12 


343 


2 


30 


351 


I 


30 


384 


9 SO 


335 


I S9 


326 


I 34 


311 i 


12 50 


288 1 


10 55 


274 


10 00 


267 


9 35 


261 


9 05 


255 


8 40 


240 


6 00 


213 


5 00 


212 


A.M. 


186 




17s 






169 
166 










150 






139 






127 






116 






lOI 






86 






68 






S3 






42 






39 






26 






6 






E E 


3 00 


c ^" 


3 00 


^55 


P.R 


Ll 



.ir^j 



TIME TABLES. 



21 



ROUTES WESTWAJEID. 

rrom Wew-York to Chicago, via Hudson River Railway, 
IsTew-York Central Railway, Great Western Railway, 
and Michigan Central Railway. 



Leave 30th St. and loth Av. 

" Yonkers 

" Peekskill 

" Fishkill 

" Poughkeepsie 

" Hudson 

Arrive Albany 

Leave " 

*' Schenectady 

" Little Falls 

" Utica 

" Rome 

" Syracuse 

" Rochester 

" Albion 

" Lockport 

Arrive Suspension Bridge 
Leave " " 

" Hamilton 

" London 

" Chatham 

Arrive Detroit 

Leave " 

" Ann Arbor 

" Jackson 

" Marshall 

" Kalamazoo 

" Niles 

" Michigan City 

"^ Calumet 

Arrive Chicago 



8 00 


A.M. 


8 30 

9 18 

9 53 
10 30 

n 51 


<< 
(( 
a 
ti 


12 so 

1 IS 

2 00 


P.M. 


3 55 




4 45 




5 12 




6 30 
9 30 


(( 


10 40 

11 32 


(C 


12 20 


A.M. 


12 30 
2 15 


<( 


5 25 
7 50 


« 


9 25 




10 00 




II 37 




I 00 


P.M. 


2 20 




3 46 


(< 


5 13 

6 27 


(C 


8 15 


«c 


9 00 


P.M. 



II 30 

12 03 
I 00 

I 
2 
3 

5 
6 
6 
9 



A.M. 
P.M. 



38 
18 
52 
00 
00 

45 
10 
10 10 

10 45 
12 25 

3 40 

4 55 

5 50 

6 40 

7 00 
9 00 

12 40 

3 15 
5 00 
5 45 
7 35 
9 20 

10 50 

12 30 

2 40 

4 05 

5 45 

6 30 



A.M. 



6 30 


P.M. 


8 oi 


(C 


841 
9 25 


11 


10 55 ." 
12 00 night 


12 10 


A.M. 


12 55 




2 55 

3 45 


(C 


4 15 




5 45 




9 00 




10 10 

11 05 
II 45 




II 55 




I 35 


P.M. 


5 00 
7 20 


(( 


9 00 




9 30 




II 22 


" 


I 00 


A.M. 


2 13 

3 30 

5 40 

7 13 

8 48 


(( 


9 30 


A.M. 



II 00 


P.M. 


I 25 


A.M. 


2 17 




3 05 

5 25 

6 55 

7 15 

8 00 


(( 

(( 
(( 
<< 


10 27 




II 22 




12 07 


P.M. 


I 40 




5 30 

6 52 

8 07 

9 00 




9 20 




II 05 




2 IS 


A.M. 


4 45 
6 30 


(C 


7 OS 




9 00 




10 50 


'• 


12 35 


P.M. 


2 10 
4 13 


(( 


5 50 
7 30 


(( 


8 15 


P.M. 



LOi;rG- ISLAND. 

Passengers leave by James Slip Ferry, or foot of Thirty-fourth street, 
East River, New-York, for Hunter's Point Depot, as follows : 

9 00 A.M., Mail train for Greenport and way stations. 
n 00 " for Northport and way-stations. 

3 00 P.M., Express train for Riverhead, running through to Greenport on 

Saturdays. 

4 00 " for Huntingdon, Northport, etc. 

5 30 " for Farmingdale, North- Islip, etc. 

(H^^ On Sundays a train leaves Hunter's Point for Northport at 9. 30 a.m., 
and returns at 3 p.m. 

Distance from New- York to Greenport, 94 miles. 



22 



TIME TABLES, 



BOUTES \?7ESTWAHD. 
Erie Railway and Connecting Lines. 



STATIONS. 


Day 

Express. 


Express 
Mail. 


Night 
Express. 


Night 
Express. 


Emigrant. 


New- York. . 


L've 


7 30 A.M. 


10 00 A.M. 


5 30 P.M. 


6 30 P.M. 


8 GO P.ISI. 


Jersey City.. 


ii 


7 45 " 


10 IS " 


550 " 


6 so " 


8 IS " 


Paterson 


AlT. 


8 24 " 


II GI " 


632 " 


.... 


9 12 


Turner's. 


a 


929 " 


12 25 dine. 


7 38 sup. 


8 31 sup. 


II G2 " 


Greycourt. . . 


Ci 


9 44 " 


I G5 P.M. 


8 IS P.M. 


.... 


.... 


Warwick 


i( 


10 30 " 


2 20 " 


.... 


.... 


.... 


Newburg . . . 


(( 





2 20 *' 


.... 


.... 


.... 


Middletown. 


«« 


10 15 " 


I 45 " 


8 S2 " 


.... 


12 2S A.M. 


Port Jervis. . 


cc 


10 56 " 


237 " 


938 " 


10 15 P.M. 


^43 " 


Susquehanna 


« 


2 43 dine. 


7 18 sup. 


2 02 A.M. 


2 31 A.M. 


10 42 bkft. 


Great Bend. 


(C 


3 23 P.M. 


7 59 P-M. 


2 28 " 


.... 


II 37 A.M. 


Binghamton. 


<( 


3 49 " 


8 32 " . 


2 59 '; 


325 ;; 


12 29 P.M. 


Owego 


(( 


4 34 " 


9 33 " 


348 " 


4 15 " 


I S3 '' 


Elmira 


«c 


5 49 " 


II 20 " 


5 12 " 


5 31 " 


407 " 


Corning. .... 


(( 


6 31 " 


12 35 A.M. 


6 G3 " 


6 21 " 


5 40 " 


Hornellsville 


>-( 


7 51 sup. 


2 II " 


7 38 bkft. 


7 so bkft. 


8 38 sup. 


Attica 


, " 


ID 40 P.M. 


440 " 


IG 26 A.M. 


IG 26 A.M. 


3 12 A.M. 


Buffalo 


(( 


12 GO MID. 


6 12 « 


II 40 " 


II 4G " 


542 " 


Salamanca... 


<( 


II 10 P.M. 


5 50 " 


II 26 ;* 


II 26 " 


3 50 " 


Dunkirk... 


(( 


I 35 A.M. 


8g3 " 


I 2G dine. 


I 2G dine. 


635 " 


Ithaca 


(( 


6 15 P.M. 




8 8g a.m. 


8 00 A.M. 


6 IS P.M. 


Syracuse 


i( 


8 00 " 




II 35 " 


II 35 " 


8 GG " 


Canandaigua 


it 


10 00 " 




10 IS " 


IG IS " 


IG GO " 


Avon 


(( 


9 57 " 





IG GI " 


IG 01 *' 


9 57 " 


Rochester. . . 


(. 


10 42 " 




II 05 " 


II GS " 


1G42 « 


Caledonia. . . 


a 






10 43 " 


IG43 " 




LeRoy 


(( 






II GI " 


II GI " 




Batavia 


<< 








II 29 '' 


II 29 " 





Jamestown. . 


(( 


II 58 " 


7 15 " 


II 58 " 


II S8 " 


7 IS A.M. 


Corry, 


11 


12 55 A.M. 


8 50 " 


I GG P.M. 


1 00 P.M. 


8 so " 


Titusville.... 


(( 


II 10 " 


II 10 " 


6 44 " 


644 " 


II 10 " 


Shaffer's.... 


(C 


II 30 " 


II 30 " 


705 " 


705 " 


II 30 " 


Meadville. . . 


t( 


2 30 " 


II 45 " 


235 " 


2 35 " 


II 45 " 


Franklin 


<( 


8 15 " 


2 13 P.M. 


70s " 


70s " 


^ ^3 ;; 


Oil City 


(C 


9 00 " 


2 4G " 


7 50 " 


750 " 


240 " 


Warren 


(( 


4 49 " 


3 15 " 


5 g6 . « 


5 06 " 


3 15 P-M. 


Cleveland. . . 


(( 


700 " 




715 " 


7 15 " 




Cincinnati . . 


i( 


6 20 P.M. 


.... 


6 IG A.M. 


6 IG A.M. 


.... 


Buffalo. . . 


L've 


12 05 A.M. 


6 30 A.M. 


II 35 " 


II 35 " 


7 45 A.M. 


Dunkirk... 


(( 


I 35 " 


8 30 " 


I 2S P.M. 


I fiS P-M. 


12 27 P.M. 


Cleveland. .. 


.AlT. 


6 30 " 


2 G5 P.M. 


655 " 


655 " 


S GG A.M. 


Cincinnati. 


<( 


5 10 P.M. 




6 2G A.M. 


6 20 A.M. 


5 IG P.M. 


Indianapolis. 


(( 


7 00 " 


2 50 A.M. 


730 " 


730 " 


7GG - 


Louisville. . . 


(( 


6 30 A.M. 


7 45 " 


S 00 P.M. 


5 GO P.M. 


6 30 A.M. 


St. Louis... 


(I 


10 15 " 


3 15 P M. 


10 IS " 


10 IS " ^ 


10 15 " 


Toledo 


. " 


II 30 " 


740 " 


II 40 " 


II 40 " 


10 SO " 


Detroit 


<< 




5 SO " 


II GO " 


II 00 " [ 5 50 P.M. 


Chicago 


• " 


9 GO P.M. 


6 3G A.M. 


9 3G A.M. 


9 30 A.M.! 1 1 4S " 



KAIL WAY ROUTES. 23 

dstew-york: to Denver. 

In and about Colorado. 

From the Atlantic coast west there are so many routes that the traveler 
can hardly miss a good one. One of the best, however, is by way of the 
Lake Shore and IMichigan Southern to Chicago. 

Th^ route west from Omaha is the only through line that has less than 
250 miles of stage travel, and connections are made with it via Chicago 
and North- Western, Chicago, Burlington, and Quincy, and Hannibal and 
St. Joseph, with steamers on the Missouri River, or Council Bluffs and 
St. Jo Road. Connections will be made soon by the Chicago, Rock Is- 
land, and Pacific Road. 

From Cheyenne to Denver and Golden City, Wells, Fargo & Co, run a 
first-class daily line of express coaches. Time, 20 hours. Fare, with 25 
pounds of baggage, $25. They also run a second-class daily line to Den- 
ver. Time, 36 hours. Fare, with 50 pounds of baggage, $10. 

The Nye Forwarding Company run a daily fast freight line to Denver. 
Time, 36 hours, carrying passengers, with 50 pounds of baggage, at $10. 

From New- York to Chicago 930 miles. 

" Chicago to Omaha 494 " 

" Chicago to Denver 1121 " 

Time Table. — Coaches leave Denver for the mountains at 6 a.m. ; for 
Cheyenne, (express,) at 7.15 ; by fast freight at i p.m. ; for Coyote, at 8^^ 
A.M. ; for Pueblo and Santa Fe, at 8 a.m. Cars leave Cheyenne for Oma- 
ha, Chicago, and all points east, at 7 a.m., Omaha time. Cars leave Coy- 
ote for State Line and St. Louis at 7 p.m. 

HUDSOIT RIVER AISTD HARLEM RAIL'WAYS. 

Trains for Albany and Troy, connecting with Northern and Western 
trains, leave New- York via Hudson River Railway, Thirtieth street and 
Tenth avenue, 8 and 11.30 a.m., and 3.45, 6.30, and 11 p.m. ; and via Har- 
lem Railway, Twenty-sixth street and Fourth avenue, at 11 a.m. and 
4-35 P-M. 

The 6.30 P.M. train, via Hudson River, will run on Sundays. 

Sleeping-cars attached to 6.30 and 11 p.m. trains. 

Drawing-room cars attached to 8 a.m. train. 



WHITE MOUNTAINS. 



TABLE OF FARES. 

New-York to Boston, by cars $6 oo 

" " " boat and cars 400 

Boston to Gorham, X. H., by cars 6 00 

" " " " boat and cars 500 

Gorham to Glen House, (stage,) 1 cxj 

Glen House to Crawford House, (stage.) 4 00 

" " North-Conway 325 

Ascent of Mount Washington, by carriage-road, including toll 4 00 

"bridle-path 350 

Crawford House to Littleton, (stage.) 3 50 

" " Profile House, (stage,) 4 00 

" " North-Conway, " ,300 

Profile House to Littleton, (stage,) 2 00 

" Plymouth, " 300 

" " Wells River, (stage,) 3 00 

Boston to Centre Harbor^-cilz Concord 3 50 

Wolfborough, " " 350 

Centre Harbor or Wolfborough to North-Conway, (stage,) 3 64 

Boston to Alton Bay, vz'a Dover 2 50 

" Centre Harbor, via Dover 3 90 

' Wolfborough, " " 36-3 

" North-Conway, zfza. Dover 6 40 

" White Mountains, via Dover 9 90 

" Franconia ^Mountains, via Dover 13 40 

" Cra^^•ford House, via Coucoi d 10 50 

Profile House, " " 9 00 

" " " " Pl}Tnouth, (stage,) 8 00 

Littleton, (B. C. & M. or N. R. R.,) 7 co 

" Plymouth 4 5° 

" Profile House, via Northern Railroad 9 ck3 

*' Crawford House, via " " 10 50 



S^o^ 



RATES OF FARE. 25 

Boston to Lake Memphremagog , ^8 20 

" Waterbury, Vt 7 25 

Waterbury to Mansfield House and Summit House, and return 4 00 

New- York to Glen House, via Worcester, Concord, and North- 

Conway 13 75 

New-York to North-Conway, via Worcester and Concord 11 75 

Centre Harbor, '' " " 8 25 

Wolfborough, " " " 8 55 

" Plymouth, " " " 8 60 

" Profile House, via Worcester, Concord, and Ply- 
mouth 12 10 

" Profile House, via Worcester, Concord, and Little- 
ton II 25 

" Crawford's, via Worcester, Concord, and Littleton. . . 12 
" Profile House, via Connecticut River 11 2 



J o 



" Crawford's, " " " 12 75 

" Profile House, " Albany and Rutland 14 35 

" Crawford's, " " *' ...1585 

" Profile House, '' Lake Champlain and day-boats.. .14 35 

" Crawford House, ?y/^ " " " " ...1585 

" Profile House, " " " " night-boats. . 13 85 

" Crawford House, " " " " " ..1535 

" Profile House, " " " " H. R. R. . . . 14 95 

" Crawford House, " " " " H. R. R. . . . 16 45 

White River Junction to Profile House 4 60 

" " Crawford's 6 10 

" " Memphremagog Lake 4 15 



2 3 



RATES OF FARE. 



RATES OF FARE FROM NEW- YORK TO 



ist Class. 

Atlanta, Ga $44 00 

Attica, N. Y. 8 75 

Ashland, Ohio 16 80 

Avon, N. Y 7 85 

Adrian, Mich 18 75 

Agency City, Iowa, 36 10 

Akron, Ohio 1485 

Alton, 111 35 00 

Ann Arbor, x^Iich ^.. 1760 

Anderson, Ind.... 23 75 

Appleton, Wis 32 55 

Ashtabula, Ohio 13 60 

Attica, Ind 26 45 

Aurora, 111 26 55 

Atchison, K. T 47 70 

Austin, Minn 39 75 

Buffalo, N. Y 9 45 

Batavia, N.Y.... 8 55 

Bellefontaine, Ohio 19 95 

Beloit, Wis 28 45 

Berlin, Wis 31 70 

Beaver Dam, Wis 30 35 

Bloomington, 111 30 60 

Brooklyn, Iowa 37 10 

Burlington, Iowa 32 95 

Boone, Iowa . .^ 39 80 

Baton Rouge, via Steamer 63 00 

Canandaigua, N. Y 775 

Canton, Miss 53 75 

Cayuga, N. Y 8 50 

Caledonia, N. Y^. .^. 8 05 

Cairo, 111 36 40 

Cedar Falls, Iowa 37 5° 

Cedar Rapids, Iowa 34 35 

Chariton, Iowa 39 45 

Chattanooga, Tenn 3700 

Cheyenne 98 45 

Chicago, 111 24 95 

Chicago, via Buff. & Stm. 22 45 

Cincinnati, Ohio 22 40 

Clarksville, Tenn 34 4° 

Cleveland, Ohio 14 95 

Clyde, Ohio 17 40 

Columbus, Ohio 19 45 

Columbus, Pa. 11 55 

Columbus, Miss 48 15 

Copper Harbor, Mich., v. 

Steamer 

Corinth, Miss 4° 75 

Corry, Pa 11 70 

Crestline, Ohio 17 60 

Council Bluffs, Iowa.... 46 45 



ist Class. 

Dunkirk, N. Y $10 70 

Dayton, Ohio 21 50 

Danville, 111 27 55 

Decatur, 111 30 45 

Decatur, Ala 37 75 

Delaware, Ohio 18 95 

Detroit, Mich 16 45 

Detroit, via Steamer 16 45 

Detroit, via Toledo iS 45 

Denver, Colorado, 123 45 

Des Moines, Iowa, 40 25 

Dixon, 111 28 85 

Dunleith, 111 32 90 

Dubuque, Iowa 33 00 

Eagle Harbor, jNIich. via Stm 

Eagle River, Mich., via 

Steamer 

East-Saginaw, Mich 19 95 

Eddyville, low^a 37 45 

Ellsworth, Kansas 63 95 

Evansville, Ind 33 00 

Erie, Pa 12 20 

Franklin, Pa 13 10 

Franklin I\Iills, Ohio. ... 14 85 

Fairfield, Iowa 35 50 

Fairbault, Minn 42 15 

Flint, Mich 18 85 

Fond du Lac, Wis 31 20 

Forest, Ohio 19 00 

Fort Hayes, Kansas 69 45 

Fort Riley, Kansas 56 95 

Fort Wayne, Ind 21 25 

Freeport, lU 29 80 

Fulton, 111 30 40 

Geneva, N. Y 7 25 

Girard, Pa 1275 

Galena, 111 32 25 

Galesburg, 111 ' 31 55 

Gallon, Ohio 17 75 

Grenada, I^Iiss 48 50 

Grand Junction, Tenn. . . 42 50 

Grand Rapids, Mich 21 65 

Grand Haven, Mich 22 60 

Green Bay, Wis . 33 7^ 

Greenville, Pa 13 95 

Hamilton, Ohio 22 00 

Hannibal, Mo _. . 35 45 

Hastings & Prescott,Min. 42 20 
Helena, Ark., via Steam. 48 25 

Holly Springs, Miss 44 cx) 

Horicon, Wis 29 95 

Humboldt, Tenn. 40 25 



ioCf^jf 



BATES OF FAKE, 



21 



ist Class. 

Hunts ville, Ala $38 50 

Ithaca, N. Y 750 

Independence, Iowa 36 00 

Indianapolis, Ind 25 00 

Iowa City, Iowa 34 80 

Jamestown, N. Y 10 75 

Jefferson, N. Y 7 25 

Jamestown, Pa 14 35 

Jackson, Mich 18 80 

Jackson, Miss 55 00 

Jackson, Tenn 40 25 

Jacksonville, 111 33 35 

Janesville, Wis .* 28 45 

Jefferson City, Mo 42 45 

Jeffersonville, Ind 26 65 

Junction City, Kansas. . . 57 20 

Julesburg, Colorado 84 70 

JoHet, 111 26 75 

Kennedy, N. Y 10 50 

Kalamazoo, Mich 20 80 

Kenosha, Wis 26 75 

Keokuk, Iowa 34 95 

Kansas City, Mo 46 95 

Kilbourn City, Wis 32 45 

Kingston, C. W 

La Pointe, Wis., via Steamer .. .. 

Le Roy, N. Y 8 25 

Lewiston, N. Y 9 90 

Loudonville, Ohio 17 10 

• London, C. W 14 70 

La Crosse, Wis — 35 95 

Lafayette, Ind 25 60 

Laporte, Ind. 22 95 

Lake Pepin, Minn 4° 95 

Lansing, Iowa 35 95 

Lansing, Mich. ... 20 20 

La Salle, 111 28 95 

Lawrence, Kansas 49 70 

Leavenworth, Kansas... 48 30 

Lexington, Ky 26 40 

Lima, Ohio 19 80 

Little Rock, via Steamer, 63 25 

Logansport, Ind.. .^ 24 15 

Louisville, Ky., via Cin. 

& River 26 90 

Louisville, Ky., viaR. R. 26 90 

Macon, Ga 49 00 

Macon, Miss 48 60 

Madison, Ind., via Rail & 

Steamer 25 40 

Madison, Wis 30 05 

Manchester, Iowa 35 10 

Mansfield, Ohio 17 35 

Marengo. Iowa 36 20 

Marion, Ohio 18 50 



ist Class. 

Marshall, Mich ^19 75 

Marquette, Mich., v. St 

Massillon, Ohio 15 75 

Blattoon, 111 30 20 

Ma'yville, N. Y 11 40 

Meadville, Pa 13 00 

Mendota, 111 2835 

Meridian, Miss 52 40 

Michigan City, Ind 24 95 

Milwaukee, via Chicago, 27 95 
Milwaukee, v.D. &M.R. 24 95 
Milwaukee, Wis. Buff. & 

Steamer 22 45 

Millersburg, Ohio 16 45 

Mineral Point, Wis 32 50 

Minnesota Junction, Wis. 29 95 

Minneapolis, Minn 42 95 

Mobile, Ala 56 50 

Monroe, Mich 17 95 

Montgomery, Ala 55 00 

Montreal, C. E 

IMount Pleasant, Iowa... 34 35 

Mount Vernon, Ohio 18 80 

Muscatine, Iowa 34 oS 

Memphis, Tenn., v. Rail, 44 25 
Memphis, via Steamer. . . 44 25 

Niagara Falls, N, Y . 9 45 

Naples, 111 33 85 

Nashville, via Rail & St. 34 40 
Natchez, Miss., via Rail, 60 50 
Natchez, Miss., via Stm., 60 50 
Napoleon, Ark., via Stm. 52 25 
North- Plcitte, Nebraska.. 75 95 

Northfield, Minn 42 85 

Neenah, Wis 32 30 

Nebraska City, Neb 48 45 

Nevada, Iowa 38 75 

Newark, Ohio 18 95 

New-Castle, Pa 15 45 

New-Orleans, La., v. Rail 63 00 
New-Orleans, v. Steamer 63 00 

Oswego, N. Y 7 45 

Ogdensburg, N, Y 

Oil Springs, or Petroha, 

C. W 1545 

Oil City, Pa 13 10 

Odin, 111 33 50 

Omaha, Nebraska 46 95 

Ontonagon, Mich., v. St 

Orville, Ohio 15 90 

Oshkosh, Wis 31 75 

Ottawa, 111 28 35 

Oskaloosa, Iowa 37 95 

Ottumwa, Iowa 36 45 

Oxford, Miss 45 75 



28 



RATES OF FARE. 



ist Class. 

Owatonna, Minn $41 40 

Painesville, Ohio 14 45 

Pana, 111 31 75 

Panama, N. Y 11 20 

Pittsburg, Pa 16 00 

Paris, Tenn 37 75 

Paris, C. W 12 80 

Penn Yan, N. Y 7 50 

Peoria, 111 31 45 

Peru, Ind 23 50 

Pella, Iowa 38 95 

Piqua, Ohio 21 20 

Port Sarnia, C. W 15 45 

Portage Lake, Mich 

Portage City, Wis 31 75 

Prairie du Ohien, Wis. . . 33 95 
Prescott & Hastings, Min. 42 20 

Princeton, 111 29 25 

Quincy, 111 34 45 

Rochester, N. Y 7 90 

Racine, Wis 27 10 

Randolph, N. Y 10. 30 

Ravenna, 14 35 

Reed's Landing, Minn... 40 45 

Red Wing, Minn 41 45 

Richmond, Ind 22 90 

Rockford, 111 28 65 

Rock Island, 111 32 25 

Rolla, Mo 41 80 

Rome, Ga 42 25 

Syracuse, N. Y 6 25 

Salina, Kansas 60 95 

Salt Lake City, Utah 23S 45 

Sandusky, Ohio. 17 05 

Sault Ste. Marie, JNIich., 

\da Steamer 

Selma, Ala 53 40 

Shaffer's Farm, Pa 12 95 

Sharon, Pa 14 65 

Shelby, Ohio 17 30 

Sidney, Ohio 20 75 

Sioux City, Iowa 49 95 



I I St Class. 

j Sparta, Wis $34 95 

I Springfield, Ohio 20 70 

1 Springfield, 111 31 95 

) Stephens's Point, Wis... 3570 

: Stevenson, Ala 36 50 

! St. Charles, Mo 37 00 

St. Joseph, Mo 45 95 

St. Louis, ]Mo 36 00 

St. Paul, Minn., v. Rail. 42 95 
St. Paul, Minn., v. Stm. . 42 95 
Superior City, Wis., via 

Steamer 

Terre Haute, Ind 28 00 

Tiffin, Ohio 18 05 

Titus ville, Pa 12 70 

Toledo, Ohio 17 95 

Tolono, 111 29 GO 

Topeka, K. T 51 70 

Toronto, C. W^ 11 95 

Urbana, Ohio 20 25 

Vicksburg, Miss., via Rail. . . 58 co 
Vicksburg, via Steamer.. . 58 00 

Vincennes, Ind 3° 75 

Williamsport, Pa 7 40 

Westfield, N. Y 11 20 

Warren, Ohio 14 35 

Warren, Pa 12 70 

Wabash, Ind 22 95 

Wamego, Kansas 54 45 

Wasliington, Iowa 35 75 

^\''atertown, Wis 29 70 

Waupun, Wis 30 60 

Waukegan, 111 26 20 

Weston, Mo 48 20 

Whitewater, Wis 29 30 

White River, Ark., via 

Steamer 52 25 



Winona, Minn. 

Wooster, Ohio. 

Xenia, Ohio 

Youngstown. Ohio. 



.... 38 45 

16 30 

.... 21 15 

.... I 5 00 

5 ' Zanesville, Ohio 19 i :; 



First Class includes BertJis only on Steamers plying between Grand 
Haven and Milwaukee, and both Meals ajid BertJis on other Lake and 
River Steamers, except Lake Ontario. 



rn 



EATES OF FAEE. 



29 



EATES OF FAEE VIA GREAT SOUTHERN MAIL ROUTE, 
FROM NEW-YORK TO 



Atlanta, Ga. $37 15 

Augusta, Ga 38 00 

Bristol, Tenn 24 85 

Charlottesville 14 10 

Co-vington iS 95 

Corinth, Miss 36 25 

Chattanooga, Tenn 32 00 

Columbus, Ga.. . , 44 00 

Columbus, Miss 48 15 

Canton, Miss 48 50 

Dalton, Ga 32 00 

Decatur, Ala 34 5° 

Goshen. 17 30 

Gordonsville, Va 13 15 

Granada, Miss 43 50 

Grand Junction, Tenn 37 25 

Huntsville, Ala 34 00 

Holly Springs, Miss 38 -js 



Jackson, Miss ^49 75 

Knoxviile, Tenn 30 50 

Lynchburg, Va 16 65 

Millborough 17 65 

Mobile, Ala 50 50 

Macon, Ga 40 00 

IMontgomery, Ala 47 00 

Meridian, !^Iiss 46 40 

Memphis, Tenn 38 25 

Nashville, Tenn 34 00 

Xew-Orleans, La 53 00 

Rome, Ga 35 2-, 

Richmond, Va 15 00 

Staunton, Va 15 85 

Selma, Ala 46 00 

Vicksburg, Miss 52 75 

West-Point, Ga 42 15 



THROUGH TRAINS. 



Leave New- York 7.30 p.m. 

" Washington 5.50 a.m. 

*' Lynchburg 4. 55 p. m. 

" Bristol 7. 10 a.m. 

*' Knoxviile 2. 56 p. m. 

" Dalton 7.20 P.M. 



Leave Chattanooga 9.45 p.m. 

" Grand Junction. .. .3.25 p.m. 
Arrive at Memphis 6.00 p.m. 

" Nashville 3.30 a.m. 

" New-Orleans 5.35 p.m. 



BOOKS QUOTED. 



Appleton's Hand-Book of Northern Travel. 

Tlie Canadian Hand-Book and Toui'ist's Guide. 

Heriot's Travels in Canada. 

J. Starr King's White Hills. 

Rockwell's Catskill Mountains. 

Burt's Connecticut River Guide. 

Henry Ward Beecher's Star Papers. 

Nelson's Lake Champlain. 

Howe's Gazetteer of New- York State. 

Lippincott's Universal Gazetteer. 

Lossing's Book of the Hudson. 

Moorman's Mineral Waters of the United States and Canada. 

Walling's Route and City Guides. 

Harper's Magazine, 1858. 

New- York Tribune, 1865: 

New-York Gazette, 1867. 

Ithaca and its Scenery. 

The Falls of Taughannock. 

Street's Woods and Waters. 



r/3 



ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 



A.— Seaside. 

B,— Springs and Falls. 

C — Lakes, Rivers, and Mountains. 

I>, — Dominion of Canada. 

In looking for a place, all the pages given should he re- 
ferred to, as the first is not always the most important. 



♦ ♦ t 



Anthony's Nose, Mountain, N. Y., 

Albany, N.Y.,c 17, 128. 

Alleghany River, c 30. 

Attica, N. Y., c 33. 

Avon, N. Y., h 25. 

Adirondacks, c 37. 

Au Sable Chasm, c 42. 

Amherst, Mass., c 48. 

Alstead, N. H., c 53. 

Ascutney Mountain, N. H., c 54. 

Androscoggin River, c 61. 

Androscoggin Lakes, c 165. 

Alton, N.'H., c61. 

Andover, N. H., c 63. 

Allentown, Pa., c 89. 

Altoona, Pa., c 89. 

Alton, 111., c 116-118. 

Athens, N'.Y., c 127. 

Auburn, N.Y., c 136. 

Adams, Mass., c 176. 

Agawam River, Mass., c 176, 177. 

Annamessex, N. C, c ISO. 

Asheville, N. C, c 181. 

Aylmer, d 51. 

Arnprior, d 51. 

Alumette Lakes, d 52. 

Amherst, d 59. 

Alburg Spring, Yt., h 32, 33. 

Alexandria Bay, d 14, 15. 



Bergen Tunnel, N. J., c 23. 
Boilins: Spring, N. J., c 23. 
Blue Ridge, c 26. 
Binshamton, N. Y., c 30. 
Buffalo, N. Y., c 33, 34, 140. 
Blood's, N.Y.,c 35. 
Batavia, N. Y., c 36, 140. 
Burlington, Vt., c 38. 56, 195. 
BooneviUe, N. Y., c 39, 41. 
Black River, N. Y., c40. 
Bellows Falls, Vt., c 45, 53. 
Brattleboro, N. H., c 52. 
Bolton Falls, Yt., c 55. 
Bradford, Yt., c 56. 
Burke Mountain, c 58. 
Barton Landing, Yt., c 58. 
Blandford, Mass., c 60. 
Bethlehem, N. H., c 71. 
Bennington, Yt., c 93, 95, 172. 
Brandon, Yt., c 100. 
Barton, Yt., c 103. 
Bristol, R. I., a 15. 
Buttermilk Fidls, N, Y., c 10,. 
Bethlehem, Pa., c 88. 
Belden's Falls, Vt.,c 99. 
Byron, N. Y.,cl40. 
Branford, Ct., a 22. 
Bergen Point, N. J., a 33, 37. 
Berkshire, Mass., c 168, 173. 
Bridgeport, Ct.,c 169. 



11 



ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 



Bash-Bish Fall, Ct., c 171. 

Buncombe, N. C, c 182. 
Black Mountain, N. C, c 182. 
Burke, N. C, c 182. 
Broad River, N. C, c 182. 
Buckingham, d 48. 
Brockport, c 141. 
Budd's Lake, N. J., c 148. 
Bute Mountain Gap, N. C, c 183. 
BaU's Cave, N. Y., c 188. 
Bolton, c 203. 
Ballston Spa, N. Y.. 5 29. 
Bath Alum Springs, Va., b 49 
Belfast, Me., a 55. 
Bedford Springs, Pa., h 37. 
Burner's Springs, Va., b 51. 
Berkley Springs, Va., 6 51. 
Blue Lick Springs of Kentucky, 

bm. 
Baker's Falls, N. Y., b 82. 



Croton Point, N. Y.,c7. 
Croton River, N. Y., c 7. 
Cold Spring, N. Y. c 9, 11. 
Cro'Nest,N. Y., clO. 
Cornwall, N.Y., ell. 
Clermont, N. Y., c 15. 
Catskills, c 15, 18-23. 
Castleton Bar, c 15, 16. 
Coxsackie, N. Y.,cl6, 127. 
Cascade (Erie) Bridge, c 29. 
Corning, N. Y., c SO. 
Canandaigua Lake, N. Y., c 35. 
Conesus Lake, N. Y., c 35. 
Caledonia, (Trout,) c 35. 
Clinton County, N. Y., c 37 
Chateaugay Woods, c 37. 
Crown Point, N. Y., c 37. 
Carthage, N. Y., c 39. 
Cape Trembleau, N. Y., c 39. 
Connecticut Valley, c 44; Great 

Falls, c 53, 59, 61, 64. 
Chicopee, Mass., c 48. 
CameFs Hump, Vt., c 56. 
Caves : Devil's Den, Vt., c 57. 
Coventry, Vt., c 59. 
Charlestown, N. H., c 59. 
Chester, Mass., c 60. 
Centre Harbor, N. H., c 61, 63, 

64. 
Coal Mines, Pa., c 80. 
Carlisle, Pa., c 90. 
Chambersburg, Pa., c 90. 
Clarendon Springs, Vt., c 99. 
Charleston, Vt., c 103. 



Clyde River, (Plunket Falls,) c 
103. 

Copper Harbor, Mich., c 110. 

Cahokia, 111., c 114. 

Crow Wing, c 122. 

Coeymans, N. Y., c 127. 

Clinton, N. Y., c 131. 

Chittenango, N.Y., c 132: b 23, 
27. 

Clyde, KY.,c 134. 

Chili, N.Y.,c 135, 140. 

Cayuga, N. Y., c 137. 

Clifton, N. Y., c 138 ; & 23, S4. 

Canandaigua, N. Y., c 138. 

Charlotte, N.Y.,c 140. 

Cherry Valley, N. Y., & 23, 28. 

Cooperstown, N. Y., d 24. 

Canaderaja (Schuyler's) Lake, 
5 24 ; c 210. 

Canaan, Ct., c 170, 171. 

Cummington, Mass., c 176. 

Chimney Rock and FaUs, N. C. 
cl82. 

Chicoutimi, d W^Jl. 

Calvary Mountain, d 46. 

Carillon, d 46. 

Chaudiere Falls, Ottawa, d 49. 

Chats Falls, d 50. 

Camden, Me., a 55, 

CaldweU, N. Y., c 198, 203, 204. 

Chautauqua Lake, N. Y., c 209. 

Cayuga Lake, N. Y., c 215. 

Croton Lake, N. Y., c 223. 

Crooked Lake, N. Y., c 225. 

Coney Island, a 38. 

Coney Island Plank Road, a 40. 

Cape May, a 40-43. 

Chelsea Beach, Mass., a 50. 

Cape Neddick, Me., a 51. 

Gushing' s Island, Portland Har- 
bor, a 53. 

Cape Elizabeth, Me., a 54. 

Castine, Me., a 55. 

Cussoh Spring, Pa., b 34, 35. 

Carlyle Springs, Pa., b 36. 

Cold Sulphur Sprinss, Va., & 50. 

Chippewa, N. Y., 6 76. 

Cobourg, d 9. 

Cape Vincent, d 10. 

Clayton, d 14. 

Caughnawaga, c? 20. 

Caconna, ^31. 

Cape Rozier. d 34. 

Cape Trinity, d 40. 

Cape Eternity, d 40. 

Caledonia Springs, d ^» 



ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 



Ill 



Dobb's Ferry, c 6. 
Dunderberg Mt., N. Y.. c 8. 
Deposit, N. Y., c 28. 
Delaware River, c 28, 29, 177. 
Dunkirk, N.Y.,c 31. 
Deerfield, Mass., c 51, 59. 
Delaware Water Gap, 77. 
Dead Lake, Wis., c 124. 
Deal, N. J., a 5. 
Derby, Ct.,c 1.54, 168. 
Duncannon, Pa., c 179. 
Durham, N. C, c 180. 
Dominion of Canada, d 48. 
Deux Joachim, d 51, 52. 
Dorchester, d 59. 
Dover, N. J., c 147. 
Daggar's Springs, Va., h 50. 

Englewood, N. J., <? 5. 
Erie Railway, c 23-36, 178. 
Elmira, N. Y., c 30. 
Essex County, N- Y., c 37. 
East-Hampton, Mass., c 48. 
Exeter, N. H.,c63. 
Easton, Pa., c88. 
Eagle Bridge, N. Y., c 93. 
Equinox Mountain, Vt., c 96, 97. 
Elgin Springs, Vt.,c 99. 
Erie Canal, c 125, 126. 
Eatontown, N. J., a 6. 
East-Lyme, Ct., a 26. 
East-Hampton, L. I., « 32. 
Egremont, Mass., c 172. 
Eastern Provinces, d 56. 
Eastport, Me., a 60. 

Fort Washington, N. Y. City, c 3. 
Fort Lee, N. J., c5. 
FontHill, N. Y.,c6. 
Fishkill, N. Y., c 11. 
Franklin County, N. Y., c 37. 
Fort Edward, N. Y., c 39. 
Fall Mountain, N. H., c 53. 
Franconia Mountains, c 61, 62. 
Fort Brady, Mich., c 106. 
Fort Snelling, c 121. 
Falls of Minnehaha, c 121. 
Fonda, N.Y.,c 129. 
Fort Plain, N. Y., c 130. 
FallRiver, R. I.,al8. 
Fairfield, Ct., a 19. 
FaUs Village, Ct.,cl71. 
Fortress Monroe, c 180. 
French Broad River, N. C, c 182. 
French River, d 44. 
Fire Island, L. I., a 44. 



Greensburg, N. Y., <? 6. 
Garrison's, N. Y., c 10. 
Greenwood Lake, N. Y., c 25. 
Greycourt, N. Y., c 25. 
Goshen, N. Y., c 26. 
Genesee River, c 30, 31. 
Gainesville, N. Y., c 33. 
Glenn's Falls, N. Y., c 39, 204, 205. 
Greenfield, Mass., c 51. 
Gorham, N. H., c61, 63. 
Girardville, Pa., c 83, 84. 
Gettysburg, c 90. 
Greylock Mountain, Mass., c 92, 

93, 176. 
GrosCap, O. P., cl08. 
Goular's Bay and Point, c 108. 
Geneva, N. Y., c 137. 
Genesee River, c 140. 
Groton, Ct., (2 28. 
Guilford, Ct., a 21. 
Great Barrington, Mass., c 172. 
Georgian Bay, B. N. A., «; 44. 
GrenviUe, O. P., c?46. 
Gatineau River, d 48. 
Gas Port, N. Y., c 141. 
Grand Lakes, M., c 168. 
Gettysburg Spring, Pa., & 38, 39. 
Genesee Falls, N. Y., & 61. 
Grand Island, Niagara, & 75. 



Hudson River, c 1-18. 
Harlem Railway, c 1-18, 
Harlem River, c 3, 4. 
Haverstraw, N, Y., c 8. 
Hudson, N. Y., c 15. 
Hackensack River, N. J., c 7, 23. 
Hornellsville, N. Y., c 30. 
Hemlock Lake, N. Y., c 35. 
Hamilton County, N. Y., c 37. 
Herkimer County, N. Y., c 37, 41.. 
Hartford, Ct.,c44, 47. 
Holyoke, Mass., c 48. 
Hatfield, Mass., c 51. 
Hoosick Tunnel, c 51, 92. 
Hanover, N. H., c 56, 59. 
Haverhill, N. H., c 59. 
Harrisburg, Pa., c 88, 89. 
Huntingdon, Pa., c 89, 179, 180. 
Hollidaysburg, Pa., c 89. 
Hoff'man's, N. Y., c 129. 
Hydesville, N. Y., c 134. 
Highlands of Navesink, a 8. 
Hunt's Mill, R. I., a 16. 
Housatonic Valley, Mass., c 167. 
Housatonic River, c 168. 



IV 



ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 



Hinsdale, Mass., c 177. 

High Point, K C.,cl81. 

Hawkesbnrg, d 46. 

Halifax, d 59. 

HoUey, c 141. 

Highlands of New- Jersey, c 146. 

Howe's Cave, Schoharie Co., N. 

Y., c 188. 
Hampton Beach, N. H., a 50. 
Highgate Spring, Vt., & 32. 
Hot Springs, Ya., & 48. 
Healing Springs, Va., h 49. 

Irvington, N. Y., c 6, 7. - 

lona Island, N. Y., c 9. 

Indian Reservation, N. Y., c 80, 

134. 
Iroquois Point, Mich., c 108. 
Illinois Town, 111., c 115. 
Iron Mountains of Missouri, c 

118. 
Indian Point, Ct., a 22. 
Indian Neck, Ct., a 26. 
Isle of Shoals, N. H., a 63. 
Ithaca, N. Y., c219. 

Jeffrey's Hook, Hudson Elver, 

c3. 
John Brown's Tract, c 37. 
Juniata Valley, c 89, 179. 
Johnstown, N. Y., c 129. 

Kinscshridge, N. Y., c 4. 
Kidd's Plug Cliff, N. Y., c 10. 
Kinderhook, N. Y.,cl7. 
Kirkwood, N. Y., c 30. 
Keeseville, N. Y., c 37, 38, 42. 
Kittatinny Mountain, c 77, 78. 
Killington Peak, Yt., c 98. 
Keweenaw Point, Mich., c 110. 
Kingston, R. I., a 31. 
Kent, Ct.,cl69. 

Lake Mohegan, N. Y., c 9, 206, 

207, 208. 
Lake Mahopac, N. Y., c 9. 
Lanesborough, N. Y., c 29. 
Leroy, N. Y., c 35, 36. 
Lake Erie, c 36. 
Lewis County, N. Y., c 37. 
Lake Pleasant, N. Y., c 37. 
Lake George, (Horicon.) c 39, 197. 
Little Falls, N. Y., c 39.' 
Long Island Sound, c 44. 
Lake Memphremagog, c 45. 
Lake Umbagog, Yt., c 58, 165. 



Lancaster, Mass., c 58. 

Lake Winnipiseogee, c 61, 62, 63. 

Littleton, N. H.,c62, 64. 

Lancaster, N. H., c 71. 

Lehigh Eiver, c 80. 

Lewistown, Pa., c 89. 

Lewisburg, Pa., c 89. 

Lock Haven, c 90. 

Lake Bombazine, Yt., c 98. 

Lake Austin, Yt.. c 98. 

Lake Castleton, Yt. , c 99. 

Lake Dunmore, Yt., c 99. 

Lake Superior, c 104, 111. 

Lake St. Claii% c 105. 

Lake Huron, c 105 ; d 44. 

La Crosse, Wis., c 120. 

Lake Mendota, Wis., c 123. 

Little Falls, N. Y.,cl30. 

Long Branch, N. J., a 1. 

La Tourette House, Bergen Point, 

N. J., a 33. 
Lake Lovely, Saratoga, N.Y., h 18. 
Lake Luzerne, N. Y., ^> 19 : c 220, 

221. 
Lebanon Springs, N. Y., & 22. 
Litchfield, Ct.,^c 170. 
Lenox, Mass., o 174. 
Lee, Mass., c 175. 
Little Juniata Eiver, Pa., c 180. 
Lake Temiscaming, d 43. 
Lake Nipissing, 6^44. 
La Chine, d 44. 
Lake of the Two Moxmtains, d 

45. 
L' Original, d 47. 
Lake Saint Mary's, d 48. 
Lake Matawan, d 51. 
Lockport, N. Y., c 141. 
Lake Hopatcons:, N. J., c 148,149. 
Lakes of New- York, c 190. 
Lake Champlain, c 191-196. 
Lake Wacabac, N. Y., c 209. 
Lake Mohensick. N. Y., c 220. 
Lake Ontario, d 2. 
Lewiston, d 4. 
Long Sault, cZ 18, 19. 
Lake Saint Peter, d 27. 
List of Salmon and Trout Elvers, 

d 70, 71. 

Maiden, N. Y., <? 15. 
Monroe, N. Y., c 25. 
Middletown, N. Y., c 26. 
Monticello, N. Y., c 26. 
Mount Marcy, N. Y., c 40. 
Mount McInt^Te, N. Y., c 40. 



^ ' / 



ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 



Mount Sanantoni, N. Y., c 40. 
Mount Golden, N. Y., c 40. 
Mount Seward, N. Y,, c 40. 
Mount Whiteface, N. Y., c 40. 
Moose Mountain, N. Y., c 40. 
Moose Eiver, N. Y., <? 40. 
Montreal Route, c 4A. 
Magog, c 47. 
Mount Mansfield, c 47, 55, 56, 155, 

156. 
Mount Tom, Mass., c 48, 
Mount Holyoke, Mass., c 48, 49, 

50. 
Monadnock Mountain, c 51. 
Mount Kilburn, N. H., c 53. 
Montpelier, Vt. c 55. 
Mount Pulaski, Vt., c 57. 
Memphremagog, c 59, 158, 159, 160, 

161. 
Mount Washington, c 61, 73-77. 
Merrimack River, c 61, 64. 
Mifflintown, Pa., c 89. 
Milton, Pa., c 89. 
Mount Anthony, Vt., c 95. 
Manchester, Vt., c 95, 96. 
Mount Dorset, Vt., c 95. 
Middlebury, Vt., c 99. 
Moosilauke Mountain, N.H. , c 100. 
Mount Hor,Vt.,c 102. 
Mississippi River, c 104, 114-118, 

121. 
Munising, Mich., c 109. 
Marquette, Mich., c 110. 
Mound City, (Saint Louis,) c 114. 
Minnesota, c 120. 
Madison, Wis., c 122. 
Minneapolis, c 121, 122. 
Mohawk River, c 126. 
Manlius, N. Y., c 131, 132. 
Manchester, N. Y., (Mormon,) c 

183. 
Marked Rock, R. L, a 15. 
Mount Hope, R. I., a 15, 18. 
Medford, L. I., am. 
Mineral Springs of N. Y., b 1. 
Massena Springs, N. Y., ^ 23, 25. 
Moosehead Lake, Me., c 164, 167. 
Mount Katahdin, Me., c 166, 167. 
Morgantown, ^. Q.^c 181. 
McDowell, N. C, c 182. 
Montreal, d 43. 
Madawaska River, d 51. 
Montmorenci, Falls of, d 55. 
Moncton, d 58. 
Maine Coast, a .54. 
Mount Desert Island, Me., a 56. 



Martha's Vineyard, a 68, 69. 
Medina, N. Y., c 141. 
Morristown, N. J., c 147. 
Maine Forest, c 163. 
Mammoth Cave, Ky., c 185. 
Moreau, c 204. 
Mount Desert Island, a 56. 
Missisquoi Springs, Vt., b 30, 31. 
Morristown, d 15. 
Montreal, d 20-26. 
Murray Bay, d 30. 
Metis, d 33. 

Newport, Vt.,c 160, 162. 

Niagara Falls, N. Y., 6 63-74. 

Northern Railway of New-Jer- 
sey, c 1-18. 

New- York City, c 2-4. 

Neutral Ground, c 4. 

Neperah River, N, Y., c 5. 

Nyack on the Hudson, c 7. 

Newburg, N. Y., c 9, 11, 12, 25. 

New-Hamburg, N. Y., c 12. 

Neversink, N. Y., c27, 28. 

Narrowsburg, N. Y., c 29. 

Niagara River, c 36 ; & 74-81. 

New-Haven, Ct., c 44. 

Northampton, Mass., c 49-51, 58. 

Newbury Springs, Vt., c 57. 

Northern New- Hampshire, c 61. 

North-Conway, N. H., c 63, 64. 

Northumberland, N. H., c 71. 

Northumberland, Pa., c 89, 178. 

New- York Central Railway, c 125, 

Newark, N. Y.,cl34. 

Navesink River, a 6, 8. 

Nauvoo, N. J., (2 7. 

Newport, R. I., a 9. 

Narraganset Bay, a 18. 

Niantic, Ct., a 26. 

New-London, Ct., a 26. 

Narraganset Pier, R. I. , « 30. 

Narrows, N. Y. Bay, a 35. 

Newtown, Ct., c 167. 

Naugatuck River and Road, Ct,, 
c 168. 

New-Milford, Ct.,cl69. 

North-Adams, Mass., c 176, 177. 

Nanticoke, Pa., c 145, 178, 179. 

North-Carolina, c 180. 

Norfolk, Va., c 180. 

North River, (Riviere du Nord,) 
fZ46. 

New-Brunswick, d 48. 

Nova-Scotia, d 48. 

New-Hampshire Coast, a 61. 



VI 



ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 



New-Bedford, Mass., a 65. 
Nantucket, a 69, 70. 
Nanticoke Falls, c 142. 
Naugatuck, Ct., c 152. 
Nahant, Mass., a 49. 

Oskewanna Lake, N. Y., c 9, 208. 

Orange County, N. Y., c 25. 

OtisviUe, N. Y., c 27. 

Owego, N. Y., c30. 

Olean, N. Y., c 30. 

Oneida County, N. Y., c 41. 

Ogdensburg, N. Y., c 41, (^ 16. 

Orford, N. H.,c59. 

Otter Creek, Vt., c 98, 99. 

Ontonagon, Mich., c 104. 

Oneida, N. Y., c 131. 

Onondaga, N. Y., c 133, 134. 

Onondaga Lake, & 21, 24. 

Oswego, N. Y., c 133, h 22. 

Oceanville, N. J., a 6. 

Otsego Lake, N. Y., 6 24, c 178. 

Ottawa River, d 42. 

Ottawa City, d 48. 

Osceola Lake, N. Y., c 208. 

Owasco Lake, N. Y., c 226. 

Oak Orchard Acid Springs, N. Y., 

6 27. 
Ohio White Sulphur Springs, h 53. 

Piermont Railway, c 1-18. 
Palisades, c 5, 6, 23. 
Piermont, N. J., c 6. 
Pocanteco River, N. Y., c 7. 
Peekskill, N. Y.,c8, 9. 
Poughkeepsie, c 13. ^ 
Paterson and Passaic Falls, N. J., 

c24, 682. 
Potague Lake, N. J. c 24. 
Port Jervis, N. Y., c 28. 
Portage Bridge, N. Y., c 31. 
Plattshurg, N. Y., c 37, 40, 195, 

c^43. 
Port Kent, N. Y., c 37, 42, 193. 
Potsdam, N. Y., c 40. 
Prospect, N. Y., c 41. 
Perciefield Falls, c 43. 
Passumpsic River, c 58. 
Pemigewasset River, c 61, 64. 
Plymouth, N. H., <? 62, 64. 
Pottsville, Pa., c 81, 82. 
Pennsylvania Coal Region, c 80. 
Port Carbon Landing, Pa., c 82. 
Poultney, Vt., c 97. 
Peach Lake, N. Y., c 209. 
Penobscot River, a 56. 



Port Hope, d 8. 
Presque Isle Bay, d 9. 
Prescott, d 17. 
Point Cardinal, d 18. 
Parisien Is., c 108. 
Pictured Rocks, c 108. 
Pilot Knob, c 119. 
Palatine Bridge, N. Y., c 130. 
Palmyra, N. Y., c 135. 
Pleasure Bay, N. J., a 5. 
Providence, R. I., a 15. 
Portsmouth Grove, R. L, a 16. 
Patchogue, L. L, a 32. 
Perth Amboy, N. J., a 35. 
Pittsfield, Mass., c 168, 175. 
Plainfield, Mass., c 176. 
Pennsylvania, c 177. 
Pilot Mountain, N. C, c 181. 
Pisgah, N. C, c 182. 
Polk, N.C.,c 182. 
Point Fortune, d 46. 
Pemachunga Lake, d 48. 
Prince Edward's Island, d 48. 
Provinces of Canada, d 48. 
Pembroke, d 51, 52. 
Portsmouth, N. H., a 61. 

Quebec, c 44, c? 52. 

Quarantine, New- York City, a 35. 

Rockland Lake, c 7. 
Rondout, N. Y., c 14. 
Rhinebeck, N. Y., c 14. 
Ramapo River, N. J., c 24. 
Reservation, Indian, N. Y., c 30 
Racket Lake, N. Y., c 37, 41, 43. 
Rouse's Point, N. Y., c 37, 196. 
Reading, Pa., c 89. 
Rutland and Burlington Railway, 

c 93 
Rutland, Yt., c 98. 
Richfield Springs, N. Y., c 130, h 

23,24. 
Rome, N. Y., c 131. 
Rochester, N. Y., c 138. 
Red Bank, N. J., a 9. 
Rocky Point, R. I., a 15, 28. 
Rhode Island, R. L, a 18. 
Raleigh, N. C, c ISO. 
Rutherford County, N. C, ^ 182. 
Riviere du Nord, (North River,] 

d^. 
Riviere du Lievre, d. 48. 
River Gatineau, d 48. 
Rideau River, d 49. 
River Madawaska, d 51. 



r/r 



ALPHABETICAL I:N-DEX. 



vn 



Rye, N. H., <z 64. 
River Soul, c 196. 
Rockaway Beach, L. I., <7 43. 
Red Sulphur Springs, Va., b 4T. 
Rockbridge Alum "Springs, Ya., 

^>49. 
Rockbridge Baths, Va., h 50. 
Rawley's Springs, Va., b 51. 
River Saint Maurice, d 23. 
Riviere du Loup, d 30. 
Rimouski, d 33. 

Spnyt den Duyvel Creek, c 4. 
Sleepy Hollow, N. Y., c 7, 20. 
Sunnyside, N. Y., cT. 
Sing Sins:, N. Y.,c7. 
Stony Point, N. Y., c8. 
Saugerties, N. Y., c 14. 
Sullivan County, N. Y., c 26. 
Shawangunk Ridge, jS". Y., c 27. 
Susquehanna River, c 29, 89, 177, 

179. 
Starucca (Erie) Viaduct, c 29. 
Salamanca, N. Y., c 30. 
Saint Lawrence County, N. Y., 

c37. 
Saranac Region, X. Y., c 37, 43. 
Saint Regis Woods, c 37. 
Saratoga Springs, c 39. 
Springfield, Mass., c 44, 47, 60. 
Stowe, Vt., c 47, 55, 56. 
Sugar-Loaf Mountain, Mass., c51. 
Saint Alban's, Vt., c 56. 
Saint Johnsbury, Vt., c 58. 
Saco River, c 61, 63, 64. 
Stratford, Ct., a 19, c 168. 
Savin Rock, Ct., a 21. 
Sachem's Head, Ct., a 22. 
Stonington, Ct., a 28. 
South-Kingston, R. I., a 30. 
Sag Harbor, L. I., r^ 32. 
Staten Island, N. Y., a 35. 
Saratoga Sprinsrs, b 1. 
South-Argyle, N. Y.,513. 
Saratoga Lake, b 13, 17. 
Shaker Connmunity, IN". Y., b 22. 
Sharon, N.Y.,^ 23. 
Stockport, N. Y., b 23. 
Schuyler's (Canaderaja) Lake,5 24. 
Sharon, Ct., c 170. 
Salisbury, Ct., c 170, 171, 172. 
South-Egremont, Mass., c 172. 
Stockbridge, Mass., c 172, 173. 
Saddle-Back Mountain, Mass., c 

176. 
Shickshinny, Pa., c 178, 179. 



Salem, N. C.,c 181. 
Statesville, N. C, cl81. 
Salt Sulphur Springs, Va., 5 46. 
Sweet Springs, Va., ^48. 
Stribling's Springs, ^'a., b 51. 
Shannondale Springs, Va., b 51. 
St. Lawrence River, d 1-35. 
Sackett's Harbor, d 10. 
Saguenay River, d 35-42. 
Saint Leon Springs, d 69. 
Saint Catherine Springs, d 68. 
Steamboat Routes in Canada, d 

71, 72. 
Salisbury, N. C, c 181. 
Swannanoa River, N. C, cl82. 
Sinville Falls, N. C.,c82. 
Saint John's Bay, d 42. 
Sainte Anne, d 45. 
Saint Eustache, d 48. 
Saint Benoit, d 46. 
Saint Scholastique, d 46. 
Saint Andrew's, d 46. 
Saint John, 58, 65. 
Stamford, Ct., a 71, 72, 73. 
Susquehanna River, c 142. 
Senecawana Lake, N. Y., c 148. 
Schooley's Mountain, N. J., cl51. 
SebagoPond, Me., ^166. 
Shoreham, N. Y., c 193. 
Sabbath-Day Point, c 199. 
Seneca Lake, X. Y., c 211. 
Swampscott, Mass., a 45-48. 
Salem, Mass, a 48. 
Saco Pool, Me., a 52. 
Sweet Chalybeate Springs, Va., 

b 44. 
Schuylkill Region, c 81, 83. 
Sunbury, Pa., c 89. 
Saint Alban's, Vt., c 100. 
Saint Paul, Minn., c. 104, 120, 121, 

Superior City, Mich., c 104, 110. 
Saint Mary's Pdver, ^lich., c 105. 
Sault Sainte :Marie, c 105-103. 
Saint Louis, c 111. 
Shepherd Mountain, Mo., c 119. 
Saint Croix, \Vis., c 121. 
Stillwater, Mich., cl21. 
Saint Cloud, Minn., c 122. 
Schenectadv, N. Y., c 128. 
Saint elohnsville, N. Y., c 130. 
Syracuse, N. Y., c. 133, b 21. 
Savannah, N. Y., c 134. 
Skaneateles, N. Y., c 136. 
Seneca Falls, N. Y., c 137. 
Shark River, N. J., a 5. 



VIU 



ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 



Shrewsbury and River, N. J., a 

5, 6, 9. 
Seekonk River, a 16. 
Seeconnet, R. I., a 17. 

Tappan Zee, c 5, 6. 
Tappan Village, N. Y., d 6. 
Tarry town, N. Y., c 6, 7. 
Tivoli, N. Y. c 14. 
Troy, N. Y.,cl8, 128. 
Turner's, N. J., c 24, 25. 
Tahawus, c 40. 
Trenton Falls, N. Y., c 41, 124, 

131, h 54-60. 
Tupper's Lake, IST. Y., c 43. 
Tonquamenon Bay, c 108. 
Tribes' Hill, N. Y., c 129. 
Tiverton, R. I., a 18. 
Tottenville, N. Y., « 35. 
Taconic Mountains, Mass. and N. 

Y.,cl63. 
Tryon Mountain, N, Q.^c 182. 
Tadoussac, d 31-33, 42. 
Thurso, d 48. 

Thirty-one-miles-long Lake, d 48. 
Timber-slides in Canada, d 50. 
Taghkanic, N. Y., c 217-219. 
Toronto, d 8. 

Ulster County, N. Y., c 26. 
Utica, N. Y. c 39, 41, 130. 
Umbagog Lake, Introduction. 

Vernon, c 51. 
Vergennes, Vt., c 99. 
Verona, N. Y., cl3T.^ 
Vallonia Springs, N. Y., 5 29. 
Vermont Spring, h 32. 
Virginia Springs, & 41. 
Vanity Springs, Va., h 50. 

Washington Heights, N.Y. City, 

<? 2 3 
West-Point, c 9, 10. 
Walden, N. Y., c26. 
Warwick Woodlands, N. Y., c 26. 
Warsaw, N. Y., c 33. 
Wethersfield Springs, IST.Y., c. 33. 
Warren County, N. Y., c 37. 



Westport, N. Y., c 38. 

White Mountains, Routes, c 44, 

45, 61-65. 
White River Junction, Vt., c 45, 

54, 55. 
Waterbury, Vt., c 47. 
Whately, Mass., c 51. 
Windsor and Wethersfield, N. H., 

c 54, 59. 
Waterbury, Vt., c 55, 56. 
Wells River, Vt.,c 57. 
Willoughby Lake, Vt., c 58, 101. 
Walpole, N. H., c59. 
Weirs, N. H.,c61, 63. 
Wolf borough, N. H., c 63. 
Waumbeck House, N. H., c 72. 
Williamsport, Pa., c 90. 
Williamstown, Mass., c 91, 172. 
Warren, N. H., c 100. 
Westmore, Vt.,cl01. 
Winona, Minn., c 121. 
Wisconsin, c 125. 
Warren, R. I., a 15. 
Winsted, Ct., c 171. 
Westfield River, Mass., c 176. 
Wyoming Valley, c 142, 178. 
Weldon. N. C, c 180. 
White-Fish Lake, O.P.,^48. 
WolfviUe, d 57. 
Westchester Mountain, d 57. 
Windsor, d 58. 
Wyoming Falls, c 142. 
Wilkesbarre, Pa., c 146. 
Winsted, Ct., c 153. 
Waterbury, Ct., c 154. 
Woodstock, Ct., c 155. 
Winooski Valley, Vt., c 157, 158. 
Whiteside Mountain, N. C, cl83. 
Whitehall, N. Y., c 192 
Watkins Glen, N. Y., c 211, 212. 
Wells, Beach, Me., a 51. 
White Sulphur Springs, Va., h 

42, 43. 
Warm Springs, Va., h 48. 

Yonkers, N. Y., c5. 
Yellowstone River, c 116. 
Yellow Springs, Va., h 52. 



MEMORA^TDA. 



MEMOEANDA. 



( 



5-^2-3 



MEMORANDA. 



MEMORANDA. 



5-3 r 



MEMORANDA. 



MEMORANDA. 



I 



^2-7 



MEMORANDA. 



iTi- Z 



MEMORANDA. 



k 



SALISBURY, VT. 

I. ©. TJEMIOPILii:, I'roprietox', 

The above House is now open for the reception of families 
and tourists. Cars stop at Brandon, Vt., where coaches are 
ready to convey passengers to the House. 



Goodspeed's Landing, 

Handsomely situated on the Connecticut river, easy of access by 
Hartford Steamers from Peck Slip, at 4 o'clock p.m. daily, or by 
railroad and steamboat, via Middletown or Hartford, 

Sunday night boat to New-York this season. 

House repainted, rooms large and airy, good table, and reason- 
able prices ; no mosquitoes ; good riding, sailing, and fishing. 

H. H. SQUIRES, Superintendent 

Goodspeed's Landing, Ct. For the Gelston Sotel Co 

INTERNATIONAL HOTEL, 

NIAGARA FALLS, N. Y. 



This Zai'ge and S2ega7it JEToiet has superior acconnnodia^ 
iio7is for six hunc2red guests 

It is the largest and most complete Summer Hotel in the 
country. 

J. T. FULTOIT, Proprietor. 



SPRING HOUSE, 

Vallonia Springs, Broome Oounty, N. Y, 

JEROME B. SAjSTDS, Proprietor. 

These Springs liave long been celebrated for their Pro- 
pbylactic and Medicinal properties. Being located in tlie 
midst of wild and striking scenery, within one mile of the 
far-famed valley of the beautiful Susquehanna, the forests 
abounding with game and the streams filled with fish, they 
present features of interest to a larger class of those seeking 
a summer resort than any other of the many noted resorts 
in the country. And while soliciting the patronage of those 
in pursuit of health or pleasure, the Proprietor feels confi- 
dent of his ability to give satisfaction to his guests. 

Passengers leaving Albany by the morning train on the 
Albany and Susquehanna Eailroad connect with the stage 
at Afton, and arrive at the Spring House in time for dinner. 

WVOMlBia VAttEt «OTEtt 

WILKESBARRE, 
"V^AI^r) & CO., Froprietops. 



This house, for beauty of situation, is unsurpassed in this 
country, and has a combination of all the modern improve- 
ments found in city hotels. It is magnificently furnished 
throughout, and has accommodation for 200 guests. 

Spacious Balconies command a view of the charming 
Valley of Wyoming, while the Susquehanna glides beneath, 
and is visible for miles on either side. The Drives and op- 
portunities for Sailing, Rowing, and Fishing are excellent, 
and the Proprietors will spare nothing in order to make it 
one of the most delightful, as well as fashionable, places of 
resort in the country. 



PLATTSBURG-H, N. Y. 



This Hotel is particularly desirable for a Smnmer resort. 
Situated, as it is, upon the banks of JOaAe Chanij^lain^ 
its broad piazzas offer beautiful views of Cumberland Bay — 
celebrated as the scene of tbe Naval Engagement of 1814 
— while from the promenade on the roof a fine view can be 
obtained, including the village, the surrounding country, 
and, in the distance, the Green Mountains and the Adiron- 
dacks ; which, together with the pure water, the beautiful 
flower, pleasure, and croquet grounds, the pleasant drives, 
the spacious and well-ventilated rooms, offer attractions to the 
seeker after health and pleasure that can not be surpassed. 

A new and spacious Livery-Stable will be opened in 
connection with the Hotel on the first of June, which will 
afford ample accommodations to persons wishing to bring 
with them their horses and carriages. 

A Steam-Ferry will make daily trips between Plattsburgh 
and St. Albans Bay, passing between North and South Hero 
Islands, touching at the best fishing localities there are to be 
found on Lake Champlain. 

Sportsmen en route for the Adirondacks will find private 
conveyances at Plattsburgh to take them to Paul Smith's, 
Milote Baker's, Martin's, Virgil Bartlett's, and other forest 
resorts, at as low rates as are offered on any other route. 

Early next autumn a Railroad will be completed from 
Plattsburgh twenty miles, en route to the Adirondacks ^ 
which will enable sportsmen to reach the hunting «,nd 
fishing localities of the Wilderness at much lower rates and 
with greater facility than is now offered by any route. 






BALLSTON SPA, N. Y. 



G-EORG-E SMITH Proprietor. 

GEORGE BRIGGS, Assistant. 

*~9~^ 

This well-known and popular establishment lias recently 
been reopened to the public. No expense has been spared 
to put it in fine order as a first-class Hotel. It will be found 
complete in all its appointments, and it is designed to give 
it superior attractions to the public generally. 

Guests will find ample accommodations, cheerful enter- 
tainment, and all desirable luxuries. Patronage is solicited, 
and every effort wiH be made to merit it. 

The Proprietor has had long experience as a landlord, and 
flatters himself that he has not failed in giving satisfaction 
to those who have temporarily made their home at the sev- 
eral houses he has heretofore had in charge. Old friends and 
acquaintances are cordially invited to call upon him at his 
new location, where he hopes to render a sojourn pleasant 
and delightful. New customers will also have every atten- 
tion paid to their comfort and enjoyment. Try the Old Sans 
Souci. 



THE HOSFORD HOUSE, 

Richfield Springs, N. Y., 

Now open for the season, pleasantly situated between tlie 
American and Spring Hotels, having been enlarged and 
newlj fumislied, can accommodate about twenty additional 
families. Accommodations and table first-class, and terms 
reasonable. Address M. K. HOSFORD, 

Michfield Spinngs, K. T. 

LA TOURETTE HOUSE, 

Bei'g-en Point:, N". «T. 

TMs delightful summer resort is now open for guests. 
Its easy access to the city makes it peculiarly desirable for 
persons doing business in New- York — distant only 30 min- 
utes by Central Railroad of New-Jersey. Trains every hour, 
and steamboats Bed Jacket, foot Liberty Street, and Thomas 
P. Way, Barclay Street, four times daily. All the vegetables 

used are raised on the farm attached. 

J. G. ARMOUR. 

AQUIDNECK HOUSE, 

NEWPORT, 

The above House is open for the season. Yery desirable 
suites of rooms not yet engaged. Also, suites in cottages 
near, with board at the Aquidneck. Apply as above to 

WILLIAM HODGES. 



UNITED STATES HOTEL, 

Long Branch, N. J., 

TVIIuHi 03PE1V •TXJIVJE 15, 1S68. 

S. LAIRD, Proprietor. 



WSM® 1]A,E1 ^^ 



-WHITE LAKE, 

Sullivan County, N. Y., 

Now open to receive guests. Tlie house is new and newly 

furnislied. 

P^. J. POTTS5 Pi-opi-ietoi-. 

Long Branclif N. J.^ 

WILL OPEN "JUNE 1, 1868. 
S, LAIRD, Proprietor. 

Long Branchy N. J., 

COOPER & LAIRD, Proprietors. 



WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS, 

JVJEAM CARLISLE, PA. 



This popular Summer Resort will be opened for tKe recep- 
tion of visitors on the FmsT of June. The proprietor 
takes pleasure in tendering his thanks to his numerou.s visit- 
ors during the last, and respectfully solicits their patronage 
and encouragement in the season approaching. He promises 
his best efforts to make his guests happy and comfortable 
during their sojourn with him. 

These Springs are located in the county of Cumberland, 
Pa., four miles from Carlisle. Carlisle may be reached 
from all quarters by the Cumberland Valley Railroad, from 
whence passengers will be conveyed to the Springs in Omni- 
buses or Carriages, wliich will be in waiting on the arrival 
of each train of cars, at reasonable charges. 

The Springs are located at the base of the Blue Mountain, 
in a fertile and beautiful valley. The buildings are large 
and commodious, and admirably adapted to the comfort of 
guests. They are being repaired and renovated thoroughly, 
and will be in complete order by the period of the opening. 

Through the valley are fine roads, affording pleasant 
drives, or equestrian exercise, if that be preferred — Horses 
and Carriages being ahvays at the command of visitors. The 
Canodoguinnet Creek, a fine stream of water, is within a few 
miles of the Springs, and affords fine fishing for those in- 
clined to that kind of sport. 

The waters of the Springs possess peculiar healing quali- 
ties, and many a weak, debilitated person has been restored 
to health and vigor through their healing influence. 

The public are cordially invited to visit the Springs during 
the approaching season. Every effort will be made to render 
visitors comfortable and happy. 

TERIVIS-$2.50 per Day, or $10 per Week. 

\Y. G. THOMPSON, 

Of the State Capitol Hotels Harrisburgh^ 

Proprietor. 

J. P. HARRIS, SUPERINTENDEIs'T. 



•-^^ 

Watch Hill Point, Westerly, Rhode Island, 

Situated on the Extreme South-Western Shore of the State,, 
Three Miles from Stonington, Ct. 



The Plimpton House will reopen for its Third Season about the 
middle of June. This is a new House, built by the proprietors in 
1863. The Location is on high ground, the Rooms are large, airy, and 
pleasant, and the Accommodations are first-class. The Beach is a very 
fine one : the Bathing Beach is not surpassed on the coast, possessing 
a fine surf, without undertow, and having nearly a hundred bathing- 
houses— is within five minutes' walk of the Plimpton House. 

Watch Hill Point, it is said by tourists, is the coolest place on 
the Kew-England coast ; water- view to the east, south, and west, with 
a fine, cool, exhilarating sea-breeze at all times. The Fishing-grounds 
are within a few minutes' sail off the Point. Excellent boatmen are 
ready at all times to take parties, large or small, for sailing on one of 
the finest of bays for the purpose. 

Parties from the West or South seeking the New-England seashore 
will find this place the easiest of access, as this is the first place be- 
tween New- York and Narragansett Bay where surf-bathing can be 
found. Railway routes from the North, South, East, and West connect 
with the Shore Line Railway, and by steamboats from New-York to 
Stonington or New-London. Stop at Stonington and take steamers or 
sailboats for Watch HiU— time thirty minutes — connecting with all 
trains. 

A. S. PLIMPTON & CO. 

S^impion Souse , Watch Silt Toinl, ^. T, 



KEESEVILLE, N. Y, 



This House is now in first-class condition for tlie 
Summer business of 1868. The grounds have been 
improved ; desirable additions made to the furniture of 
the establishment ; and, with spacious and airy eooms, 
pleasant surroundings, and prompt attendance. 

The Traveler Seeking Health or Pleasure 

will find an agreeable and comfortable resting-place, 
and the Season Boarder all the attractions that could 
reasonably be desired. 

The Drives in the immediate vicinity possess the 
greatest attractions, the mountain and rural scenery 
being unsurpassed by that of any locality in the State. 



Always in readiness at Port Kent, Lake Champlain, 
to carry Passengers to this House. 

PARTIES WISHING TO YISIT THE 

GREAT CHASM OF THE AUSABLE, 

THE SARANAG SPORTINQ GROUNDS, OR WHITE-FACE MOUNTAIN, 



Will be furnished with appropriate conveyance on reasonable 
terms. Ample accommodations for Private Carriages. 

D. S. CUTTING, Proprietor. 



SARATOaA. 



$4.50 per day; $28 per week; $100 for four weeks. 

Superior accommodations for families and gentlemen. Bag- 
gage-master and omnibuses at Station on arrival of trains. 
Address LELAjSTD BROTHERS, or 

Metropolitan Hotel, IJ'ew-York. 

COLUMBIA SPRINGS HOUSE,* 

The water is wliite sulphur, universallj regarded equal to 
any in the State. 
Fine air and beautiful grove. 

^ C. B. NASH. 



1@M H4&£. 



'5) 

V/ill open for the Season June 15. 

The house has been refurnished in the most comfortable 
style. Accommodations and table first class. Take New- 
York Central trains from Albany to Palatine Bridge. 

ANDREAS WILLMANN, 

JProprietor. 



WHITE MOUNTAINS 



Lii um 



i9 



J. I^. THOMIFSOI*^ & CO, 



PROPRIETORS, 



COA.L i^EaiOTsrs, 

Scranton, Pa. 

Wf OMIHi HOUil, 

S> M. Iff ASIX^ 

Proprietor. 



DELAWARE WATER-QAP. 

Kittatinny Honsa 

PROPRIETOR. 
Room for 400 <^ue§t§. 



A NEW HOTEL, 

JEdgeivater^ Stciten Islandf 

(First landing from foot of Broadway,) opens Wednesday, July 
1st, on the European plan, with, all the conveniences of a 
city hotel. Communication with New- York every 30 min- 
utes over the finest sail in the world. House five minutes' 
walk from Tompkinsville landing. Carriages always in 
attendance. 



llFflll ISlil 



^ 



IVe^v-I^oclielle^ 

NEW-YORK, 

Is now open for the season. Persons wishing to engage 
rooms can make arrangements at the Clifford House, 1243 
Broadwav. 



4 



rA-w^yJ 



STONINGTON5 CT. 

This House will be opened for the season about the 20th 
of June, and will be conducted as a first-class family hotel. 

Having all the advantages of Bathing, Fishes'G, and 
Sailing, with pleasant Drives and good Stabling, it is 
one of the most attractive Summer Resorts on the coast. 
Plans of the house can be seen at the office of C. P. Dixox, 
48 Pine Street, New-York. For further particulars apply to 
ALVIN PEAVEY, Manager, Stonington, Ct. 



MOUNT MANSFIELD HOTEL, 

STOWE, VT. 



MANAGER. 



This Hotel is situated at tlie beautiful village of Stowe, 
Vt., 10 miles from Waterbury Station, on tbe Vermont Cen- 
tral Railroad, from which six-horse coaches run, on the ar- 
rival of the trains, to the Hotel ; time, 1^ hours. There is 
also a telegraph to Stowe. The hotel is fitted in the 

MOST MODERN STYLE, 

WITH GAS AND WATEH ALL THROUGH THE HOUSE. 

Also bathing-rooms ; and will accommodate about four 
hundred guests. There is also the. Summit House, 7| miles, 
which is reached by stage, 6 miles, and saddle-horse, 1^ 
miles, when you will see the 

MOST MAGNIFICENT VIEWS 

that the eye ever beheld, giving a view of seventy miles of 
Lake Champlain, and the Adirondack Mountains in New- York 
State, and twenty distinct ranges of mountains in Vermont 
State ; also fifty townships and villages ; and, in a clear 
day, Mt. Washington can be seen with the naked eye, one 
hundred miles distant. 

There is a livery-stable of seventy-five horses connected 
with this Hotel ; and there is no place in New-England that 
will give so great a variety to the pleasure-seeker for scenery 
and drives as at Mount Mansfield. And, to sum up in a 
word, you will regret when you are obliged to leave ; and 
will say the story of this beautiful place has never been half 
published, for it is the place of all others. 



CATSKILL MOUNTAIN HOUSE. 

THIS FAVORITE SUMMER RESORT 

IS isro-vv^ oi'Eisr ifor "visitoi^s- i 

Stages will mset passengers at the Hudson River Railroad, 
New- York and Albany Day Boats, and Steamer Thomas 
Powell. The Thomas Powell leaves New- York, Tuesdays 
and Thuksdays, at 5 p.m., and Satubday at 2 p.m., foot of 
Franklin Street, Pier 35. Returning, leaves Catskill on 
Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, at 6 p.m. 

PiWIMOl 101S1^ 

NEWBURGH, N. Y. 

T/iis First- Class Souse wi2Z he ope7iecl Ju7ie 29ih for 

the Season . 
f 

TEE,3^*^S PtE-A.SOISr-A.B31iE- 



I 



H. BLAKE, Proprietor. 



CHA.K.3II]>fO ©XJ3I3IER. RETREJLT. 



SMITHSONIAN HOUSE, 

AT NYACK, 

On the Hudson, 25 miles from Neisr-York. 

A.ccessible hy JBoats and Cars, 

Is now open for tlie reception of permanent and transient 
guests. Choice rooms can be secured by application on the 
premises. 

W. p. MTJNEOE, Proprietor. 



m.&m 



FililLII 10 



GEORGE AVE 

I^roprietor. 



This long established and popular resort for the Pleasure- 
seeker and Invalid is now open for the reception of visitors. 

Situated but a few rods from Lake Champlain, where the 
fishing and shooting are unsurpassed in the State, with beau- 
tiful drives in all directions, together with the well-known 

Curative Properties of the Water 

the Proprietor believes that visitors will find themselves 
well repaid for a few days or weeks passed in this quiet 
retreat. 

Good Boats and experienced oarsmen in attendance at all 
times. Carriages furnished at any time. 

ALL CHARGES MODERATE. 

The Vermont Central Kailroad lands passengers at the 
door. 

GEO. AYERILL. 



lllf 11 if 4f i; 



AND 



MASSENA SPKINiJ, 

On the Haquctfe JEtiver^ St* Zawrence Co., 2r. T, 

CROCKER & CO., Proprietors. 



THE UNITED STATES HOTEL, with its Cottages, is beautiftOly 
located in close contiguity to the Springs, and will he found replete 
with all things necessary for promoting the comfort and amusement of 
the invalid or pleasure-seeker. Good Fishing, Gunning, Boating, 
Hiding, etc. Warm Baths of the Spring Waters. Terms Eeasonahle. 

CHOCDKIEII «fc OO., 

JProjyrietors, 



HOW TO GET TO THE MASSENA SPRING. 

Froji New-Yokk and the South.— The shortest and most direct 
route : Take the 6.30 p.m. Express train on the Hudson Eiver Railroad, 
with sleeping-cars attached — ^purchasing tickets to Potsdam Junction 
via N. Y. Central and Rome and Watertown Railroad. Another very 
delightful trip may be arranged thus : Night boat on Hudson River to 
Albany, Railroad to Whitehall. Day boat on Lake Champlain, stopping 
over night at Plattsbursfh ; taking the cars next morning for Potsdam 
Junction or Brasher FaUs. At either place, carriages will be found in 
waiting to convey passengers to the Spring. 

From Niagara Falls, the West axd South-West.— By New- 
York Central and Rome and Waterto^^^l Railroad to Potsdam Junction, 
or by Lake Ontario and St. Lawrence River Steamboats to Cornwall, 
passing through the beautiful sceneiy of the Thousand Islands, and 
running the Long Sault Rapids. Cornwall is connected with the 
Spring^by ferry. 

From Canada.— By Grand Trunk Railroad, or Royal Mail Steamers 
to Cornwall, from thence to the Spring by ferry. 

From Boston and the Eastern States.— By Osrdensburgh and Lake 
Champlain Railroad to Potsdam Junction or Braslier Falls. This road 
connects at Rouse's Point with all the Eastern Railroads. 

Tiim Table of the Borne, Watertown and Ogdensburgh Bailroad.^ 
Trains leave Rome for Potsdam Junction at 4.30 a.m. and 5.25 p.m. 
Leave Potsdam Jimction for Rome at 6.45 a.m. and 1.35 p.m. 



GOOPER GOTTA&E, 

Wilt be open for Guests J'une f, f868. 

Address M. M. LAIRD, 

Long Branch, or 15 & 17 Whitehall St., New- York. 

NOW OPEN. 

PLEASANT DRIVES, HEALTHY CLIMATE. 

Only two hours from New- York via New-Haven Railroad. 

P. D. CARRIQUE. 

STAMFORD HOUSE, 

Stamford, Ct. 

Eormerly in the U. S. Hotel and Parker House, Boston, and late 
Proprietor of the Mayolis House, Nahant, has taken the above 
House, in the beautiful village of Stamford, Ct., 35 miles from 
the city on New-Haven Railroad, where he is prepared to receive 
a limited number for the season, as well as transient guests. The 
table supplied with every delicacy ; airy rooms ; and only a few 
minutes' walk from the depot, through a broad, shaded street. 
Terms moderate, and omnibus to cars and steamboat; steamer 
commutes for $20 a season. 



PLYMOUTH, N. H, 



This elegant and spacious hotel, in the beautiful village of Plymouth, 
in the valley of the Pemlgewasset, near its confluence with Baker's 
River, and just at the opening of the Mountain Region, is now ready 
for the reception of guests. There are one hundred and fifty well- 
lighted and well-ventilated sleeping-apartments, in suits or single 
rooms, carefully furnished with a studious regard to the comfort and 
convenience of the occupants. Commodious hath-rooms, with hot and 
cold water, spacious parlors, halls, and piazzas. 

This is the most picturesque and delightful region in New Hamp- 
shire, abounding with points of interest to the tourist and seekers of 
pleasure ; among these are Livermore Falls, which for wild and roman- 
tic scenery are not surpassed. " They are probably the result of vol- 
canic action, and invite the attention of the student of science and 
lover of nature." 

Mount Prospect, with a carriage-road to the summit, commands a 
view of thirty miles in extent, including Lal^e Winnipesaukee, with its 
numerous islands, surpassing that obtained from Mount Lafayette or 
Mount Washington. 

Lake Winnipesaukee, Squam Lake, and numerous other points, all 
of which are accessible by fine carriage-roads. No pains or expense 
will be spared to make the Pemlgewasset the home of the tourist ; and, 
it is believed, with its advantages of situation and scenery, it presents 
attractions, as a fashionable summer resort, superior to any in the 
country. 

An excellent Quadrille Band has been engaged for the season. 
A Livery Stable is connected with the house, and good teams will be 
in readiness at all times. 

Cars leave daily for Lake Winnipesaukee, giving guests an oppor- 
tunity of sailing the entire length of the lake, and returning the 
same day. 

Cars also leave daily for the Profile and Crawford Houses, via Lit- 
tleton ; and stages daily for the Franconia and White Mountains. 

J. M. FRENCH, } ,^ 
CM. MORSE, }^^'"^"^- 



HEATH HOUSE, 

S©lie@b|'s li@M!iitiilfi) ipHntfii 

NEW-JERSEY, 

Opens June ISth, -with, terms reduced. For particulars, 
route, etc., address 

S. T. COZZENS. 

P^VlLIOi^ HOTEL, 

(LATE MR. BLANCARD'S,) 

New-BrigMon, Staten Island. 

Boats from foot Dey Street every hour. This elegant hotel, 
so near and convenient to Wall Street, is now open for the 
reception of guests, and fast filling up. Persons doing 
business down-town can get to their business as soon as if 
they were living in Fortieth Street. 

KEYPORT PAVILION, 

Keyport, New-Jersey, 

will open on the 1st of June for summer boarders. Splen- 
did Fishing, Drives, Bathing, etc. Terms reasonable. Boats 
leave Keyport at 7 a.m. ; New-York, foot of Barclay Street, 
at 4 P.M. Apply to the Captain on boat, or address 

GEORGE J. KIBBEE, Proprietor. 



LONG BRANOH, N. J. 

■WIX,3L. OI»E]V JXJ3VE X. 

For Rooms inquire at 487 Broadway, from 11 to 13 o'clock, 
and at 33 Clinton Place, from 1 to 3 P. M. 

6111 it VI PAvmaw. 



THIS BEAUTIFUL RESORT 



W. Cr GIBSON, Proprietor. 

The Finest Summer Hotel in the Country, 

NOW OPEN. 
STAGES AT DEPOT. 



WINDEMERE HOUSE, 

Crreeii^vood Lake, 

M. P. BROWNING & CO., 

J/bn?^oe^ Orange County ^ JV. 2", 
Z>i t/ie Sleepy JSot2o7if Yatte/y, on iJie Caiskitl Mountains* 

Comfortable Boarding-House for Pamilies. 

Stages communicate with. Steamboat and Railroad at 
Catskill Landing. 

SYLVESTER THOMPSOIT, Catskill, W. Y. 



IT'or't ^W^illiam. Henry Hotel. 
DANIEL GALE, Proprietor. 

FORKST HOUSEI^ 

Budds Lake, N. J. 

Conveyance by Morris and Essex Railroad to Stanhope. 

Address J. M. SHARP, Proprietor. 



CHERRY VALLEY, N. Y., 

Is now open for summer boarders. Omnibus to the Sulphur 
Springs. Terms moderate. Apply to 

G, W. SUTLIFF. 



.^,^ p?s¥-*-^-f|> 

Open from June 1 to October 1, 

Parties "wisliing to engage rooms will please address 

GHAS. E. LELAND, 

Clarendon Sofd, Saratoga Springs, or Ddavan House, Albany, 

IlilMlB lOTil 



(OPPOSITE ^YEST POINT,) 

Wm open for the season, on Thursday, June 4. Parties 
wisliing to engage rooms Tvill please address 

G. F. & H. D. GARRISON, Proprietors. 

laAKi: MAHOPAC. 



POST-OFFICE AT THE HOUSE. 
RAIL-WAY STATION, CROTON FALLS. 





This long-established and favorite Summer Resort, situated on 
Narragansett^Bay, nearly midway between the cities of Proyidence and 
Newport, Rhode Island, will be opened for the reception of guests 

From i/ie First of Ju?y to the Fiftee7ith of September, 18 6S, 

The undersigned, having leased the spacious and elegant Hotel at 
this place, are now thoroughly renovating it, together with the other 
buildings, and also the grounds ; and they are determined to spare 
neither pains nor expense in rendering it as attractive a place for sum- 
mer visitors as can be found in the United States. 

Each one of the numerous front windows of the Hotel, as well at 
the spacious verandahs, commands an extensive and fine view of the 
Bay, and also of numerous Villages on the eastern shore; while ai- 
tached to the Hotel are forty acres of hill and vale, grove and lawn- 
making ample pleasure-grounds for the guests. 

Sailing, Fishing, Sea-Bathing, Bowling Alleys, Flying Horses, 
Patent Swings, Shooting Galleries, etc. Rocky Point has an excellent 
Bathing Beach, for the convenience of its guests, and forty nicely ar- 
ranged dressing-houses are accessible to it, which are at all times in 
charge of competent attendants. 

HSroT^n &. Hee^^es' DPopxxlax' JBand. 

has been engaged for the season, which will furnish music for dancing 
and for evening promenades. This Band has given excellent satisfac- 
tion the past two seasons, and is pronounced to be one of the best 
corps of musicians in the country. 

founded upon a solid rock, the summit of which is one hundred and 
fifty feet above the level of the sea, afibrds a charming view of the Bay, 
surrounding towns and cities, and the ocean. 

The Western Union Telegraph Company has an office in the Hotel, 
with connections in all parts of the United States. 

H O XJ T E. 

In order to reach Rocky Point from New-York, parties can take 
the "Newport steamers from Pier 28 North River, at 5 o'clock p.m., 
change boats at Newport on the following morning for Providence, and 
arrive at their destination in season for breakfast. Parties coming by 
the way of Providence can reach Rocky Point by the boats of the 
American Steamboat Company, which leave Providence at 8.30 and 
9.45 A.M., and 2 and 5.30 p.m. 

To Season Guests. — Contracts will be made with families or par- 
ties wishing to remain through the season, on reasonable terms. All 
letters addressed to De Camp & Cole, Rocky Point House, Providence, 
R. I., wiU receive prompt attention. 

DeCAMP & COLE, Proprietors. 

Rocky Point, April 1, 1868. 



AND THE REGION AROUND. 
Their Scenery, Legends, and Features, 

WITH SKETCHES, IN PBOSE AND TEBSE, 

By COOPEB, IRVING, BRYANT, COLE, 

AND OTHER EMINENT WKITEES. 

Illustrated. One volume 12mo, extra cloth, 350 pages, $2.00. 

TAINTOR, BROTHERS & CO., Publishers, 

WILLIAM LEIP, Proprietor. 

This liotel, beautifully located on tlie banks of \'niite 
Bear Lake, is now complete and readj to accommodate 
boarders. The proprietor lias spared neither pains nor ex- 
pense in making his hotel one of the most complete and 
pleasant residences in Minnesota. The rooms are large and 
well ventilated, the situation, for pure and healthful air, 
can not be surpassed, and the distance from St. Paul being 
only ten miles, renders it an agreeable drive. From an ex- 
tensive garden, managed by an experienced gardener, the 
table will be supplied with early and fresh vegetables. Fish, 
game, and all delicacies of the season, always on hand. 
Fishing and Hunting of the best kind in the immediate 
neighborhood. 

Picnic parties can always be accommodated with safe 
boats, managed by experienced sailors, to all parts of the 
Lake, which has twenty-five miles of shore. Charges eco- 
nomical. 



FRESH-SPICY-INDEPENDERT I 



A Sprightly Record of Metropolitan Life. 

PUBLISHED IN TWO EDITIONS, 

EYERY AFTERNOON, 



THE MAIL has a great many Special Sketches of in- 
teresting city characters and localities, written by some of 
the spiciest of metropolitan sketch- writers. 

THE MAIL will keep yon better informed upon the cur- 
rent Art, Music, and Literary news of the world than 
any other daily. It makes a specialty of these departments. 

OUR PARIS CORRESPONDENT 

is one of the sprightliest and chattiest now writing to the 
New-York press. 

FROM WA§IIIM<&TOI^ 

we have daily dispatches and letters ; two of the most en- 
terprising and successful correspondents there being engaged 
for THE MAIL. 

For all these entertaining matters, the price is ONLY 
TWO CENTS. 

Read the EVENINGr MAIL, and prove these things for 
yourself. See if it is not the sprightliest, liveliest, and 
freshest daily published in the city. 

CHARLES H. SWEETSER, Editor. 



Publication Office, No. 229 Broadway. 



CHEAPEST or ALL! 



PJ 



YIA 

Newport, Fall River, and Taunton. 

THE MOST DIRECT ROUTE TO 

Newport, Fall River, Taunton, New-Bedford, Brldgewaier, Middle- 

boro, Braintree, Piynriouth, Nantucket, and all places 

on the Cape Cod and South Shore Railways. 



CAPTAIN WILLIAM BROWN, 
Tuesday Sf Thursdays, and Saturdays. 

lAMBOA^ OiB 001 

CAPTAIN N. B. ALLEN, 

Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fndays. 

PEOM PIES 28, N. E. 



aT, 



Y, 



FARE TO 



BOSTON— Cabin, $2.00; Deck, $1.50; Supper, $1.00; 
State Rooms, $1.00 to $3.00. 



Builders, John Englis & Son, New-York, 1863. Engine, by Novelty 
Iron Works — 85-inch cylinder, with 12-feet stroke. Wheels, 42 feet in 
diameter. Extreme length, 345 feet ; breadth of beam, ^ feet over all. 
Tonnage, 2140. State Rooms, 150 ; Berths, 400. Joiner work, by J. E. 
Hoffmire. Furniture manufactured by the Company. Drapery, Linen, 
Carpets, etc., by A. T. Stewart & Co. Gas Fixtures, Silver Plate, etc., 
by E. V. Haughwout & Co. Lighted by Gas. 

WILLLIM BROWN, Captain. 



D. G. Kennet, 1st Pilot, 
Thomas Collets, 2d Pilot. 
Theo. Warben, Clerk. 



James Fixkel, 1st Engineer. 
Joseph S. Bkowx, 2d Engineer. 
War. Batchelder, 1st Mate. 
Henry Thompson, 2d Mate. 

Builders, John Englis & Son, New- York, 1865. Engine by the Allaire 
Works— 80-inch cylinder, with 12-feet stroke. Wheels, 40 feet in diam- 
eter. Extreme length, 342 feet ; breadth of beam. 80 feet over all : depth 
of hold, 15 feet ; Tonnage, 1960. State Rooms. 134 : Berths, 434. Joiner 
work by J. E. Hoffmire. Furniture manufactured by the Company. 
Drapery, Linen, Carpets, etc., by A. T. Stewart & Co. Gas Fixtures, 
Silver Plate, etc., by E. V. Haughwout &, Co. Lighted by Gas and 
heated by Steam. 

N. B. ALLEN, Captain. 



Joseph Carr, 1st Pilot. 
Sanders, 2d Pilot. 



J. B. Brayton, Clerk. 
George A. Rice, Steward. 
The splendid Steamboats " METROPOLIS " and "EMPIRE STATE." 
also belong to this Line, and are held in Reserve. 



Alfred Beebe, 1st Engineer. 
Edwd. Saltpaugh, 2d Engineer. 
David Macatfree, 1st Mate. 
James Robinson, 2d Mate. 



POI^Ui:^^^^ l^K;IOES I 



Great Inside Koute to 

BOSTON via STONINGTON, 

Avoiding Point Judith, and the consequent Sea-sickness. 
1-»-« 

This Old and Favorite Route is now reopened with the entirely 
New and Elegant Steamers, 

ST<3WIH<JT0H, 

Capt. Wm. M. Jones, 

JLeaving New -York on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, 

HAHHA^AHSETT, 

Capt. Geo. B. Hull, 

XiCaving New -York on Tuesdays, Tlixirsdays, and Saturdays, 

Prom Pier 33 Uorth Eiver, foot. of Jay Street. 



These Steamers have been fitted expressly for this Line, and for 
strength of hull and machinery, and luxuriant accommodations for pas- 
sengers, are unsurpassed by any boats on Long Island Sound, or else- 
where. 

They are constructed with water-tight compartments, with boilers 
below deck, with extra security against fire, and can accommodate, 
with ease and comfort, 600 passengers. 

By taking this route, passengers avoid the danger and discomfort of 
the Outside Route, and can rely on being landed in Boston in ample 
time for all the early trains. 

For State Itooms, apply on board at Pier 33, or at the Office on 
the Pier. 

SAMUEL DEVEAN, 
D, S. BABCOGK, Freight Agent. 

President Stonington Steamboat Co. 



NEW LINE for BOSTON, via BRISTOL. 

The New and Splendid Steamers 



Capt. Benj. Bray ton, 

lofliays, feinesdays, ani Fridays, 



Capt. Benj. M. Simmons, 

Tuesdays, Uursdays, ani Saturdays. 



Boats leave Pier 40, N. R., near foot Canal St., adjoining Albany Pier, 
DAILY, (Sundays excepted,) at 5 o'clock P.M., connect- 
ing with the train at Bristol, R I., the following Morn- 
ing, at 4.30 A.M., arriving in Boston at 6.00 
A.M., in time to connect with Eastern 
Trains and Trains to White 
Mountains. 

The most costly and magnificent Boats ever built in this conntry, or 
run on Long Island Sound ; built expressly for this route ; furnishedVith 
all the modern conveniences. Lighted by Gas, Heated by Steam. 

^" These Steamers are 3000 tons burthen, cost upward of SLOOO,- 
000 each ; length, 373 feet : width of hull, 48 feet ; depth, 16 feet. They 
are constructed as Fikst-Class sea-going vessels, with narrow guards ; 
boilers below ; water-tight compartments, and all the arrangements for 
Comfort and Safety. 

They are fitted with 238 State Eooms and 90 Berths j will easily 
accommodate 800 passengers. 

Passengers bound East will take the Desbrosses St. Ferryboat oa 
arrival of the Train at Jersey City, and land at Pier below Pier 40. 
Baggage transferred from Ferryboat to Steamers free of charge. 



State Eooms secured, Tickets for sale, and Freight arrange- 
ments made at the Office on the Pier. Also, Tickets sold at the princi- 
pal Offices of Westcott's Express Co., No. 1 Park Place ; 785 and 945 
Broadway ; Harlem Pailroad Depot, 26th Street and 4th Avenue : Hud- 
son River Railroad, 29th Street and 9th Avenue ; and in Brooklyn, 269 
Washington Street, City Hall Square. By purchasing Tickets at any ot 
these Offices, Baggage can be checked from the residence to destination. 

H. 0. BEIGGS, General Manager N. S. S. Oa 

GEOKGE "W. TIERS, Agent. 



NEW DAILY LINE TO NEW-HAVEN. 



For Passengers and Freight. 



THE STEAMBOATS 

Capt. a. W. snow, 
Capt. N. A. WILBUK. 



One of the above Steamers will leave 

Pier 26 East River, foot of Peck Slip, 

EVERY NIGHT AT 4 O'CLOCK, 

(SUNDAYS EXCEPTED.) 

IReturning, ivill leave NeivSaven every night 
at 10 o^ clock* 

Freiglit taken for Canal, New-Hayen, Habtford, and 
Springfield, and New-Havek and New-London Shore 
Line Railroad, at lowest rates. 

S. T. STAISIS'ARD, Superiutendent. 



SAXTON & SEABURY, Agents, 

112 South Street, and on the Pier, 



Grand Pleasure Excursions in July and August. 

The Eonnd Trip of more than 2000 miles, embraces 6 degrees of Lati- 
tude and 11 degrees of Longitude, passing through 

LaKes Erie, St. Claii; Huron, and Snperior, ani tlie Beautiffl Myers Detroit, 
St. Clair, and tlie Ste. Maries, 

with its Thousand Isles, presenting to the Tourist for Pleasure or 
Health, or in pursuit of Science, more real Attractions than any other 
on the Continent of America. 

IT IS ALSO BY FAR THE CHEAPEST TRIP OFFERED TO THE TRAVELING PUBLIC. 

The FARE, including meals, bekths, and passage, being less 
per day than the Prices charged by First-Class Hotels. 

S^^ No one should fail to visit this interesting and wonderful coun- 
try, with its Cool, Healthful, and Invigorating Climate. Indeed, no 
country in the world offers such inducements to the invalid as that of 
Lake Superior. To the Scientific, we point to the immense Mineral 
deposits of IRON, existing, as they do, in entire Mountains of Ore, 
yielding as high as Ninety per cent of Pure Iron ; also to the most pro- 
ductive and best paying copper mikes in the world ; to the newly dis- 
covered Silver Lead Mines, and the Rich Gold Fields of Vermilion 
Lake ; to that astounding wonder of Geology, the PICTURED ROCKS, 
rising out of the Lake, perpendicularly, 400 feet, and to many other 
curious and interesting geological formations, too numerous to men- 
tion here. 

1868. FOR LAKE SUPERIOR. 1868. 



m m Stanncli aM Elegant Steamer lETEOE, 

THOMAS WILSON, Master, 
Will Leave Cleveland on the following days, af 8 o'clock P.M. 



"Wednesday May 20 

"Wednesday June 3 

"Wednesday June 17 

Thursday July 1 

"Wednesday July 15 

"Wednesday Jnily 29 



"Wednesday August 12 

Wednesday August 26 

Wednesday September 9 

Wednesday September 23 

Wednesday October T 



Will Leave Detroit on the following days, at 10 o'clock P.M. 



Thursday May 21 

Thursday .June 4 

Thursday June 18 

Thursday July 2 

Thursday July 16 

Thursday July 30 



Thursday August 13 

Thursday August 2T 

Thursday Septeinber 17 

Thursday September 24 

Thursday October 8 



Calling at Port Huron and Samia on the next morning, after 
leaving Detroit. 

HANNA & CO., Agents, Cleveland, 0. * 

BUCKLEY & CO., Agents, Detroit, Mich. 
J. R. WHITINa, Manager, loot First Street, Detroit, Micli. 



4 



^\' •• 














Deacidffied using the Bookkeeper process. 
Neutralizing Agent: Magnesium Oxide 

C Treatment Date: 
'^ 



OeC •^ 1997 




PRESERVATION TECHNOLOGIES, INC. 
1 1 1 Thomson Park Drive 



^ <\ • "» • O A/\S CranberryTwp.. PA 16066 

^ -Oi^ ^A^^'* (412)779-2111 






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